LeDomduVin: Korean food paired with Burgundy wines

Korean food paired with Burgundy wines

Pairing Korean food and wine can be tricky due to the bold and varied flavors in Korean cuisine, but it's definitely doable. The secret is to select wines that enhance, rather than fight against, the food's qualities and flavors, favoring wines with bright acidity, fruit-forward profiles, and moderate tannins. 

Over time, I have learned that when pairing Korean food with wine, it's better to focus on the main protein or dish rather than the side dishes. Keep the wine versatile enough to simplify the pairing process, rather than trying to find wines that complement every flavor.

Generally, it's better to avoid heavy and tannic red wines, as they can clash with spicy or savory dishes. Choosing lighter-bodied reds with good acidity is usually a safer option. However, most sommeliers and connoisseurs will tell you that dry or slightly off-dry, yet crisp, whites, such as Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling, are generally good choices for spicy dishes. Off-dry wines can be a good match for Korean dishes that have some sweetness or spice.  

Korean dishes often feature a mix of spicy, sweet, salty, and umami flavors, making it challenging to find a single wine that pairs well with all of them. Still, I was up for the challenge and chose Burgundy wines, which generally also pair well with Korean food.  

The host wanted me to serve only red wine, but, as mentioned above, I knew I had to bring some white wine as well, since it's usually better appreciated with Korean food. I usually follow my instincts, and luckily, I did again, as the white wine turned out to be more successful than the red.  

The challenge was to find a fruit-forward white wine with bright acidity and good minerality, complex enough to complement the food without overpowering it. Chassagne-Montrachet came to mind, and given my recent successful pairing experience with the succulent Batard-Montrachet from Fontaine-Gagnard at another event, I decided to opt for their Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets 2020 (one of my favorites from Chassagne), which combines complexity, amplitude, and freshness.   

For the red, I chose a Volnay. Known for its freshness, elegance, delicate character, and moderate tannins, it's often described as a "feminine" wine, especially when compared to the more robust wines of Pommard, its neighbor. Coincidentally, I also brought a Pommard in case the host and his guests found the Volnay too light. 

The wines received praise from the attendees, especially the white wine, which was delightful and paired exceptionally well with the food. My taste buds also confirmed this, as I had the opportunity to sample some of the food in the kitchen, paired with a bit of each wine. Tasting food and wine together is crucial for a sommelier, as it is the only way to develop a refined palate and create palate memories that enhance one's taste, experience, and knowledge. Once again, I was happy and content with the choices I made. 

 

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Caillerets" 2020

Having opened their superb Batard-Montrachet 2020 a few days earlier, I wanted to revisit the experience. However, since Korean food requires more acidity, this Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets 2020 would be an ideal pairing. I hadn't tried it in a while, but knowing the quality of Fontaine-Gagnard's wines and their unmistakable freshness and minerality, I wasn't taking much risk and was confident it would be a hit.   

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard was established in 1985 by Laurence Gagnard, a member of the Gagnard family in Chassagne, and Richard Fontaine. Since 2007, the domaine has been skillfully led by Céline Fontaine, who blends youthful energy and a touch of tradition with the Burgundian legacy established by her parents, creating classic examples of some of Burgundy's most renowned climats. The domaine produces wine from three Grand Crus and twelve different Premier Crus, including iconic parcels such as Le Montrachet, Les Caillerets, and La Romanée.

This Chassagne-Montrachet comes from a 0.56-hectare plot called "Vigne Derriere," which was purchased by Celine's parents in the late 1990s as part of the Premier Cru vineyard "Les Caillerets." The vines, planted between 1962 and 1966 (approximately 60 years old), grow at an altitude of 220 to 325 meters on clay-limestone soils, with optimal southeast sun exposure. The soil in the upper part of the vineyard is very shallow, steep, and dotted with white stones, while the lower part is rich in clay.  

The grapes are hand-harvested. Alcoholic and malolactic fermentations occur directly in barrels for 10-15 days using native yeasts. The wine is then aged for approximately 11 months in new and used barrels, comprising one-third new oak, one-third 2-year-old oak, and one-third 3-year-old oak. Afterward, it is fined (clarified with casein and bentonite) and lightly filtered before bottling. 

The Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets 2020 is a masterpiece of elegance, subtlety, and refined complexity, enhanced by excellent acidity and mineral notes. In the glass, it has a pale straw color with green reflections. The nose is charming and enticing, offering a blend of citrus and stone fruit aromas that mingle with herbal, floral, waxy, and buttery hints. Light to medium-bodied on the palate, it feels incredibly fresh with razor-sharp acidity. The flavors mirror those on the nose—straight, focused, complex, layered, yet light on its feet. It is elegant and graceful like a ballerina, gently expanding toward a long, buttery, mineral finish. I would compare it to a lighter version of their Batard-Montrachet. Celine definitely has the magic touch!      

Domaine Xavier Monnot Volnay 1er Cru "Clos des Chenes" 2021

Xavier Monnot is a notable producer in Meursault, recognized for a winemaking style that highlights purity of fruit, elegance, and complexity. Before releasing the 2005 vintage, the estate was known as Domaine René Monnier, named after Xavier's grandfather. In 2005, with improvements to his vineyard and cellar, Xavier began bottling his wines under his own label. 

Domaine Xavier Monnot is a 42-acre estate in Meursault with vineyards stretching from Beaune to Maranges. Sixty percent of the Domaine's production is white and forty percent red, with several premier cru vineyards in Meursault, Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, Beaune, Volnay, and Maranges. Xavier believes in maintaining an average vine age of 30 to 40 years and practices "lutte raisonnée." (*)

Clos des Chênes is the largest premier cru in Volnay, situated between the premier cru of Taille Pieds and the border of Monthelie. The soil there has a high limestone content, producing wines with a perfumed character, finesse, and generous fruit notes. Half of Xavier Monnot’s 2-acre parcel was planted in 1936, with the other half planted in 1978. The wine is aged for 12 to 14 months in 30-35% new French oak. 

For this event, I chose a Volnay to pair with the Korean food, as Volnay is often described as silky and elegant, with high acidity and moderate tannins. The various premier crus situated south of the village, such as Clos des Chênes, have soil with a high percentage of limestone and exhibit the classic Volnay character of perfume and finesse.

Xavier Monnot Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chenes 2021 is a subtle yet underrated wine. It is generally light to medium-bodied, featuring high acidity, moderate to low alcohol content, and low tannin levels, which make it versatile, easy to enjoy, and suitable for pairing with food. In the glass, it presents a light garnet hue that is clear with medium intensity. Initially shy on the nose, it gradually opened up to reveal aromas of red and dark cherries, complemented by floral, herbal, and peppery notes. On the palate, it is light, fresh, vibrant, crisp, and acidic, while still offering complexity and finesse. After about an hour of airing, it mellowed and became perfectly balanced, complementing food without overpowering it. Strangely enough, this wine was not heavily affected by the oak, as there isn't much wood flavor for a wine aged 12-14 years in oak barrels. Nice wine! (even if a bit light for my taste).  

  

Domaine Nicolas Rossignol Pommard "Les Vignots" 2019

Born in 1974, Nicolas Rossignol is the fifth generation of winemakers in Volnay. He has been producing wine since 1994 at the family estate Rossignol-Jeanniard.

After studying winemaking in high school in Beaune, Nicolas gained experience working at various estates, including Domaine Joseph Voillot in Volnay, Domaine Louis Latour in Ardèche, and Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. He also worked in South Africa at Boschendal in 1995, and then in Bordeaux at Château La Cardonne, managed by Château Lafite Rothschild.

In 1997, he founded his own estate, which started with 3 hectares in the villages of Volnay, Pommard, Beaune, Aloxe-Corton, and Pernand-Vergelesses. By 1998, the estate grew to approximately 16 hectares.

In 2005, he expanded with new appellations: Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Fourneaux and Lavières, as well as Beaune 1er Cru Clos du Roy.

In 2011, all wines began to be produced under the label « Domaine Nicolas Rossignol, » encompassing a total of 30 different appellations. Nicolas moved to Beaune to allow for more space.

In 2014, he acquired an additional 1.5 hectares in the Pommard and Pommard 1er Cru appellations, thereby further increasing production.

By 2016, Nicolas planned to build a new winery to continue crafting high-quality wines. Today, the estate covers about 17 hectares.

"Les Vignots" is not a 1er Cru but a lieu-dit, and also the name of the plot, located above the hill of Pommard, near the Arvelets, on the Beaune side with a south exposure. The vines are planted on a steep slope with poor, rocky soil, which is a result of erosion. This plot (characterized by this terroir) wasn’t affected by Phylloxera in the 19th century; as a result, its vines were used to create grafted vines in Côte de Beaune. The vines are between 30 and 40 years old, typically producing fresh, mineral wines with chalky tannins. The sunny period and southern exposure help all elements reach perfect maturity.

Nicolas Rossignol's wines are crafted from carefully selected grapes from vineyards cultivated using traditional winemaking techniques inspired by biodynamic principles. The vineyard is managed with "reasoned" viticulture practices, considering the lunar influence during both cultivation and wine production & aging. No chemical herbicides are used; soil maintenance is achieved through light plowing.

Unfortunately, there's not much to say about this bottle of Pommard, as it didn't taste great, despite my high expectations, especially given the excellent 2019 vintage in Burgundy. And the worst part is that I couldn't tell if it was because it was a bad bottle or because I just dislike it... Already, on the nose, it displayed funky and earthy aromas. The palate was unharmonious, with rough edges, a lack of fruit, substance, and texture, and featured weird acidity and dry, earthy, almost green tannins that were out of place, along with a bitter, unripe finish. Definitely not my taste, and, needless to say, not in line with the quality of the vintage.  

Shame, I usually love the wines of Nicolas Rossignol, but this one was disappointing. Bad bottle? Maybe. I still have 2 bottles in stock. I will give it another try.     

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

(*) Lutte Raisonnée, which translates to "reasoned struggle" or "reasoned approach" in English, refers to an agricultural method, particularly in viticulture, where growers minimize chemical use but retain the option to apply them when essential to safeguard their crops. It serves as a balanced approach between conventional and organic farming, allowing growers to be environmentally conscious without the strict requirements of organic certification. 

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