Showing posts with label #counterfeit. Show all posts
Showing posts with label #counterfeit. Show all posts

Tuesday, August 15, 2023

LeDomduVin: Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2019 - Real or fake? Vraie ou fausse bouteille?





Domaine Leflaive & Associés 

Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2019… 


Real ou fake? Vraie ou fausse bouteille?

Mais d'où vient cet "OVNI"? (objet à valeur non identifiée 😜)

Une fois n'est pas coutume, je vais faire ce post en français, en espérant avoir une réponse de nos amis(ies) Bourguignons(nes) ou autres connaisseurs et amateurs(trices).

J'ai bien essayé de contacter Domaine Leflaive, mais ils sont en vacances jusqu'à la semaine prochaine.

J'ai trouvé cette bouteille en faisant un inventaire chez un particulier, et, personnellement, en 32 ans de carrière, je n'ai jamais vu de bouteilles du "Domaine Leflaive" et/ou "Domaine Leflaive & Associés" arborer un œuvre d'art ou peinture (ou quoi que ce soit d'autre) sur l'étiquette, qui plus est "non signée"...🤔🤔🤔




Même la contre-étiquette me paraît bizarre...De plus, Bâtard-Montrachet est normalement produit par le Domaine..🤔🤔🤔




Même la soi-disant "NFC" ("anti-counterfeiting label" ou "étiquette anti-contrefaçon" en français) demande de "scanner" la contre-étiquette, où il n'y a rien à scanner... là encore bizarre...🤔🤔🤔




J'ai même pris une photo du cul de la bouteille pour une identification plus précise.




Donc voilà, en tant qu'ancien Directeur Control Qualité, je suis curieux, et n'ayant ni la réponse, ni l'expérience d'un tel cas d'étiquette pour Domaine Leflaive & Associés et n'ayant rien trouvé non plus sur internet, je vous pose les questions suivantes:

Est-ce une vraie ou fausse bouteille?
Est-ce une contrefaçon ou une série particulière et limitée?
Pour quelle raison cette étiquette est-elle différente?
Si c'est une vraie étiquette, qui est l'artiste?
Et pourquoi il ou elle n'a pas signée son œuvre?
Aucune explication sur la contre-etiquette non plus, pourquoi?
Si la NFC est aussi vraie, pourquoi n'y a-t-il rien à scanner?

Et si c'est une fausse, faites le moi savoir aussi, car il faudra que j'informe son propriétaire, car c'est une bouteille qui vaut environ 1,400 Euros en moyenne, ce qui n'est pas rien.

Voilà, à vous de jouer.

Dom


Réponse:

J'ai enfin une réponse ! Obtenue le 4 septembre 2023, après avoir contacté le Domaine directement, j'ai eu confirmation que cette bouteille est une vraie bouteille.

Sans vraiment rentrer dans les détails, tout ce que je peux vous dire est qu’une petite parcelle de Bâtard-Montrachet appartenant à une personne fortunée est vinifiée par le Domaine Leflaive. D'où l'existence de ce « Bâtard-Montrachet » produit en petites quantités sous l'étiquette « Leflaive & Associés » et non pas « Domaine Leflaive ». Les œuvres sur l'étiquette, apparemment différentes chaque année, sont choisies par son propriétaire, et aucune explication ne m'a été donnée sur la raison du pourquoi celle-ci n'est pas signée ou ne mentionne pas le nom de son auteur/autrice. Ces bouteilles ne sont pas destinées à la vente, mais réservées à la consommation et au bon vouloir de son ou sa propriétaire, et donc normalement introuvables sur le marché. La raison de la présence de cette bouteille trouvée dans cette cave privée est qu'elle a été donnée en cadeau au propriétaire de cette cave, qui est surement un ami de la personne propriétaire de cette petite parcelle de Bâtard-Montrachet. Voila ! Vous en savez autant que moi. Et si vous avez la chance de croiser une telle bouteille, c’est une vraie et son propriétaire connait surement la personne fortunée qui lui a offert.

Cheers! Santé!

Dom


 

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin @domaineleflaive #domaineleflaive #lesphotosadom #wine #vin #vino #wein #ovni #vraieoufausse #realorfake #qualitycontrol #counterfeit #contrefaçon #editionlimitee #serielimitee #limitededition #limitedserie 



Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2023, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).

Tuesday, March 14, 2023

LeDomduVin: The problem with Instagram (and other social media) algorithms and AI technology



The problem with Instagram (and other social media) algorithms and AI technology




Unbelievable, Instagram has deleted one of my pictures of a fake Petrus label ("Pacurs" - posted with a post I wrote on fake and counterfeited bottles) from my Instagram account for IP violation, stating that the right owner is S. C. Petrus. I'm sure the Moueix family will be happy to know that Instagram is associating fake labels like "Pacurs" (as seen in China) as part of their wines. 







Instagram is associating this fake label of Petrus with Petrus, stating that they are the rightful owners of this label, which is not the case. Petrus has nothing to do with this fake label. 

Moreover, if we want to go deeper, what does this IP violation mean? 

Does it mean that no one should post pictures of wine labels unless they are the rightful owner of the brand? 

That's insane! Millions of wine labels are posted on a regular basis on several social media networks such as Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, and even LinkedIn (and many others). 

So the question is: Will Instagram remove every single post with a wine label if not posted by the rightful owner of this label? That's insane!!! 

The other question is: Is Instagram going to apply this rule to all other brands? 

It's totally absurd


Let's talk further about Algorithms and Ai in general...

This situation with algorithms and AI is, unfortunately, a problem we may have to face more and more in the coming years. As excessive rules, digitalization, and zealous cyber security increase, it will become even more difficult to post anything else than AI-generated images that have no soul, no context, and no real meaning, except the one imagined by the one who vocally asked the AI or inputted the text to create that picture. 

And, there are already millions of AI-generated pictures posted on a daily basis on most social media and networks. You can easily recognize them by the quality of the image which either looks too perfect to be true or too weird to be real. The most risible to me are the ones with real pictures of the head and fake bodies, too perfect, too symmetrical, while we all know that nothing is symmetrical in the human body. It is so obvious, it is ridiculous.  

How sad and depressed can you be to search for such impossible perfection in a fake image of yourself? And what kind of satisfaction does it brings you except more despair and the dislike of your real self?   
I know that our society has become one of stereotypes and hopeless souls unable to face their life without hiding behind a screen, but still, one has to accept reality rather than find comfort in this ever-increasing fake digital world.   

Personally, I have been posting real pictures of real wine labels on my social media for years without a problem, except maybe for the people taking my pictures to use them for their own social media and websites, the reason why, over the last few years, I have taken the habit of always writing "Ledomduvin" on all my pictures (good or bad) to prevent this from happening.  

However, to take another example, recently, these last few months, Instagram has been implementing new rules, one of them being "Monetization & shops" (Branded Content and shopping). Consequently, for some of my pictures, IG is asking me if it is a "branded" post, and, if it is, to state the "brand partner", while my pictures are mostly wine labels of the bottles I open and taste while working during private and corporate events for the company I work for.  

Therefore, they have nothing to do with the brands or producers. And I'm not an "influencer", nor a "content creator". I do not "partner" with brands to make money from the content of my posts. But because the algorithms or AI in charge of verifying these things on IG cannot see or make the difference, it pops out the question on regular basis and may refuse the post, which is really annoying.      
Anyway, I could talk about it for hours or even days, but I do not want to bore you with this subject that has invaded our everyday life and has become so common that it has already been accepted by most people, as we do NOT have the choice, it has been imposed to us. So, what's the point? 

And, don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that algorithms and AI are necessarily bad things. On the contrary, for certain things, they both became essential in our daily life, and we wouldn't know what to do without them. Yet, I guess I'm old now (50 years old), and I'm part of a generation that grew up without and witnessed the rapid transition over the last 20 years. And I'm not saying that everything was better before, as I'm not against progress and the use of technologies to ease our life, but still, I preferred many aspects of our life as they were then rather than now.   

Take good care of yourself and your loved ones. 

Dom

#ledomduvin @ledomduvin #petrus #pacurs #fake #fakelabel #counterfeit #fakepetrus



Unless stated otherwise, all right reserved ©LeDomduVin 2023, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).

Friday, September 9, 2022

LeDomduVin: Scrutinizing Petrus (again)




Scrutinizing Petrus (again)


Recently, a person I follow on Instagram asked me some questions about Petrus.





I answered to the best of my knowledge, yet, to back up the info I gave her, I went to one of our restaurants and gave a closer look at these 2 bottles of Petrus 2007, I found in the cellar.





Nothing wrong with these 2 bottles, fortunately. Yet, it was a good opportunity to do what I used to do best, prior to taking my current position about a year ago.





In my previous job, aside from being a Sommelier, I was also the Wine Quality Control Director for the entire company, for about 9 years, and, thus, spent a great part of my time checking and managing the company stock's quantities, as well as the storage conditions, quality, and security, including doing thorough inspections for all the wines we bought, stored and sold (quantity, quality, conditions, and genuineness).





And, I must say, I was very lucky to have a big boss who was a real wine lover, buying a lot of the top wines in the world, which allowed me to have access to (and even open, prepare, taste, and serve quite often), such beautiful, old and rare ladies (as I liked to call them).





Moreover, while, I gave them all the time and attention they deserved, I have learned a lot about fake and counterfeit wines, increasing my interest, broadening my experience, and perfecting my skills and knowledge in this particular field of the wine industry, which remains rather unknown and obscure, and is only practiced by a handful of people around the world.





I miss those days, sometimes, so, meticulously scrutinizing these 2 bottles of Petrus 2007 made me feel as if I was back in my old shoes as Wine QC Director, inspecting every detail to make sure of their genuineness and authenticity.

To prevent educating the counterfeiters, I cannot reveal everything I know, or, at least, not more than what I have revealed already in the many posts I wrote on the subject on my blog. It is like being a wine investigator or a wine detective, certain things are better left unsaid or to your interpretation. 😁👍🍷

Santé! Cheers!

Dom

#ledomduvin @ledomduvin #lesphotosadom #wine #vin #vino #wein  #inspection #wineinspection #petrus #fake #counterfeit #genuineness #authenticity 



Unless stated otherwise, all right reserved ©LeDomduVin 2022 on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).

Monday, July 6, 2020

LeDomduVin: Value of an Original Wooden Case - Unopened vs. Opened


Mona Lisa with a glass of wine and a bottle  revisited by ©LeDomduVin 2020
Mona Lisa with a glass of wine and a bottle
revisited by ©LeDomduVin 2020



Value of an Original Wooden Case: 
Unopened vs. Opened 



Is the value of an unopened original wooden case (OWC) higher than that of an opened one? 


The short and most logical answer should be "Yes"! Especially if the unopened case is sealed with the original band from the Chateau/Domaine and/or official Negociants and came directly from the estate via the most ideal door-to-door logistic/shipping solutions (moderate outside temperatures, spring or autumn seasons, temperature controlled, refrigerated truck and/or reefer container, etc.). 

Consequently, one may believe or be under the impression that this unopened case, sealed with the original band, along with all the bottles and the wine inside, has "normally" not been tampered with. In an ideal world, this means that the bottles, labels, and wine inside should be pristine, correct? 

Most people in the wine industry, including sommeliers and wine buyers, believe that. It should be in perfect condition if the case is from good provenance, meaning directly from the producer or from a reputable and trustworthy negociant, importer, and/or distributor. 

Yet, this would be true only if we did not include all the other factors that could potentially interfere with the case's condition (including the labels, the bottles, and the wine inside) between the moment the wine is released from the property and when you purchase the case. 

These factors may include, but are not limited to, provenance, conditions and time of travel, storage conditions, external weather conditions, temperatures and humidity differences between the place of origin and the final destination, mistakes, bad decisions, etc. 

All these factors may decrease the case value of a sealed OWC.  

For example, if an OWC case is supposedly directly from the producer but was, in fact, bought from the second-hand market, or if the shipping was not done with a temperature-controlled truck or container, or any of the other situations or conditions cited above, etc., the list of examples is endless.  

If known to the buyer, he or she may not want to buy the wine anymore, or may request to inspect the bottles to check their conditions before buying them, and/or will surely ask for a discount if he or she really wants to buy them.       

So, the correct answer is "It depends" based on all the factors and conditions cited above, which I will now try to further detail and develop in this post.    



I was recently asked about "the negative impact of wine values caused by opened original wooden cases (OWC)", meaning, in fact, 
  • "Does an unopened original wooden case (OWC) have more value than an opened one?" 
Or, again, asked differently: 
  • "Can the value of an OWC depreciate if opened compared to an unopened one?"

While browsing the internet, I could not find a specific answer or article on the subject, which surprised me as the matter has been (and still is) a recurring subject of controversial discussions among wine buyers and, more especially, among wine collectors (which prompted me to write this post to try to answer these questions with my own views and experiences). 

So, to immediately cut to the chase and get to the point, in short, the answer is quite logical (and, in my opinion, will always be): 

YES! In a wine buyer's and collector's eyes, unopened OWC cases will always have a higher value than opened OWC.   

An unopened "Original Wooden Case" (OWC) or even an "Original Carton Case" (OCC) (sometimes abbreviated OCB for "Original Carton Box") will always have more value than an opened one. As stated above, more especially if sealed with the original band, either from the winery (Château or Domaine), the Négociant, or the official distributor/wine-merchant (e.g., the original band of "JP Moueix", one of the top Bordeaux Negociants, on the picture of the case of Petrus 1999 below). 

In fact, an unopened OWC / OCC (if sealed with the original band) can/should/will directly impact both the wine's monetary value and its intrinsic value to you as a buyer (whether moral, historical, sentimental, or emotional value). The sight of an unopened OWC of a prestigious wine usually makes it immediately more valuable in the eyes of its owner.        

This is especially true for the top tiers and prestigious Châteaux and Domaines, predominantly from Bordeaux and Burgundy. If/when sold as sealed/unopened OWC, these usually command a hefty price tag. 


Great wine is like a Mona Lisa!


Great wine is like this painting of Da Vinci's "Mona Lisa" above (which I personally revisited by adding a glass of wine and a bottle to illustrate this post): rare and expensive, complex and layered, mysterious, intriguing, surprising, and (usually) better with age, only revealing itself after a certain time of opening or decanting. 

Similarly to the effects Mona Lisa's eyebrowless eyes and tight-lipped smile, as well as her poise and composure, procure to the mind and spirit, the complexity and details of the aromas/flavours and the sensation a great wine procures to the eyes, nose, and palate create a puzzling, yet fascinating, almost bewitching edge to it.    

Like famous paintings (or any other valuable item), the most renowned Châteaux and Domaines have long understood the importance of protecting these treasurable bottles. 

Securing and enclosing them in marked Original Wooden Cases (OWC) bearing the name of the estate and other details of the content, sealed closed by nails, became the norm in the early 20th century. This appeared to be the best way to protect them from shocks and/or breakage during handling and/or transit and to ease the storage process.  

Yet, it did not protect the wines from anyone (like thieves, fraudsters or even counterfeiters) to gently and carefully open the lid before putting it back after finishing their larceny, which prompted the top  Châteaux and Domaines to secure their OWC cases with a solid strap or band around the box (metallic historically, nowadays usually made of plastic or other synthetic materials). 


From Metallic to plastic/synthetic material bands


Until about a few decades ago, some of these illustrious Châteaux and Domaines were still going to the trouble of sealing their original wooden case (or box) with a metallic band, like "Domaine de la Romanée Conti" (DRC), to further protect their precious nectars.  



Domaine de la Romanee Conti OWC with Metallic band  courtesy of WineBid.com
Domaine de la Romanee Conti OWC with Metallic band
courtesy of WineBid.com



On that note, Domaine de la Romanée Conti (DRC) has changed (in the early 2000s, I believe, but not sure exactly when), its original band changed from the metallic one (in the picture above) to the plastic/synthetic one (in the image below), now bearing the name of the property on it.    



Domaine de la Romanee Conti OWC with plastic band  courtesy of PleasureWine.com
Domaine de la Romanee Conti OWC with plastic band
courtesy of PleasureWine.com



Some Bordeaux's Great Growths and other Chateaux also banded their precious cases with metallic bands until the end of the last century. Then, they replaced them with plastic or synthetic ones, like the ones in the case of Petrus below, for example, which nowadays bear original bands with the Petrus logo.   



Petrus OWC with plastic bands ©LeDomduVin 2020
Petrus OWC with plastic bands
©LeDomduVin 2020



NB: Although plastic or synthetic bands nowadays usually bear the logo and/or the name of the estate (Chateaux ou Domaine), some bands might also bear the name of the official Négociant or distributor/wine merchant, like "JP Moueix" for Petrus, for example (like in the picture below). 



Petrus OWC with Original Négociant Band JP Moueix ©LeDomduVin 2020
Petrus OWC
with Original Négociant Band JP Moueix
©LeDomduVin 2020

    

One may notice that to prevent the band from being easily pulled out of the case, the wood of the lid and the bottom of the case (of Petrus above) has been carved with two lines that serve as reinforcing paths for the bands to secure the case more firmly. 

Not all wineries have adopted these carved band paths on their wooden cases, yet they have become more common now than they were roughly a decade ago, especially with the first growths of Bordeaux from both Left and Right banks.  


Original Carton Box atop Original Wooden Case for extra security

Some wineries, like Château Cheval Blanc, for example, have even gone to the trouble of covering (or enclosing) their original wooden cases in an original carton box instead of or even in addition to the original bands, adding an extra layer of security to prevent anyone from messing around with the content.    



Chateau Cheval Blanc 2012 Carton Box atop the Original Wooden Case ©LeDomduVin 2020
Chateau Cheval Blanc 2012
Carton Box atop the Original Wooden Case
©LeDomduVin 2020



I'm not sure if Cheval Blanc considered the environmental consequences when they had this idea of adding a carton box to protect their wooden box. Let's just hope the carton box is, at least, made of recycled cartons and/or is easily biodegradable. 

Aside from the negative impact of using more wood-related products, which can (directly or indirectly) impact the environment, contribute to deforestation, have a greater carbon footprint, and generate more waste, the positive note of having such a carton box atop the original wooden case is that it can only be opened intentionally.

This means that if wooden cases can gently and carefully be opened and sealed back without leaving barely noticeable opening marks (it is a tricky art that requires experience and skill, but it can be done, I have done it countless times), the carton box enclosing the wooden box (like the one above), on the other end, has been conceived in such way that it can only be opened once (you can see the peeling band on the side, once peeled, it cannot be put back together or closed back the way it was). 

However, even if conceived with "extra security for the wine" in mind, and no matter how genius this idea is, it is unfortunately not really respectful of the environment. This is, in fact, quite surprising and controversial for an estate like Château Cheval Blanc, which is claiming the sustainability of its culture in the vineyards, along their vegetable garden cultivated under the permaculture (*), their 16 beehives and the many fruit trees they possess, creating incredible biodiversity helping them fight against vine diseases more naturally and in respect with the environment.  

More especially knowing that Château Cheval Blanc roughly produces about 72000 bottles of the Grand Vin, packed primarily on cases of 6 bottles (like the one in the picture above) with the original carton box atop the original wooden case... That's a lot of cartons...  (+ about 2000 cases of 12 bottles of the 2nd wine). 

Although cartons produce a lot of waste, on a positive note, they are mostly recyclable and/or easily biodegradable. Yet, it seems a little overzealous to have both, isn't it? 


The roles and importance of the original band 


On the other hand, the plastic (and other synthetic materials) used to fabricate the original bands on most OWC cases nowadays are not easily recyclable or biodegradable (like those in the pictures above, with the winery or wine-merchant prints and the blank ones with no inscription on them, too). 

The producer's or winery's (or wine merchant's) original band has 3 different roles: 
  • Secure the sealing of the case by 
    • Preventing someone from easily opening the lid or bottom part of the OWC case  
  • Serve as extra protection of the wines, more especially during transit or shipping, by 
    • Maintaining the lid tightly closed 
    • Preventing someone from messing around with the case (like in 1.) 
    • Preventing the case from accidentally coming open (in case of an eventual incident occurring at departure, arrival, or even during transit)  
  • And, more importantly, ensuring 
    • the provenance, quality, and conditions of the bottles inside, 
    • as well as adding genuine intrinsic value to the whole case (and its content) 


Cutting or not cutting the original band? That is the question...


Wholesalers usually buy wines directly at the property or from Négociants or other officially appointed vendors. Therefore, OWC cases might be banded with the winery's original band or the Negociant's or official vendor's band. Usually, distributors, retailers, and/or even private buyers buying large quantities from these wholesalers will not cut the original band, as it is proof of the provenance/sourcing of the wines, making the OWC case more valuable with it than without.   

Wine Retailers (cavistes, supermarkets, or even restaurants and hotels), who usually buy wines from the wholesalers (or agents or distributors or, more recently, directly from the producers), might tend to cut the original band and open the OWC, as they usually sell by the bottle or smaller quantities rather than by the whole case. 

NB: That said, Retailers (cavistes, supermarkets, or even restaurants and hotels) might keep some full, untouched, and unopened OWC cases aside (just in case) for storage, investment, ageing purposes, and/or special requests. Yet, due to a lack of space or funds, smaller structures might cut the band and open the cases at some point, as it is easier for them to store and sell by unit.

Auction Houses: Although prestigious and established auction houses like Christie's, Sotheby's, and Acker Merrall & Condit tend to be more cautious nowadays by selectively choosing what and whom they buy from, applying careful selection and thorough inspection to each lot prior to the sales, including cutting or breaking the band (or seal) of unopened OWC (and even the one on the original carton box, if any) to check and inspect the contents, there was a time when the genuine authenticity of the case could be contested, as some of these auction houses occasionally sold fakes and counterfeits.  

In fact, Auction Houses' policies and opinions on cutting the band (if any) and opening sealed OWC (or not) have evolved over the past decade, and practices often greatly differ from one auction house to another. 

Yet, although the matter remains quite controversial within the wine community, as everyone seems to have his/her own opinion and point of view on the subject (without being able to find a compromise), the auction houses seem to have gone from one extreme to another, all agreeing on the fact that now (compared to 10-20 years ago), the band should be cut/broken, and the case opened, to inspect the content to prevent from fake and/or counterfeited bottles to be sold and spread the market.   


The story behind "Why Auction Houses cut the band and open the OWC cases nowadays?" 


Historically (roughly before 2008 and Rudy Kurniawan's case), unopened OWC cases (especially if sealed with either a metallic band or the winery or official wine-merchant band) were left sealed and untouched as a guarantee of authenticity, provenance, sourcing, and conditions. 

Thus, ensuring the genuine origin, quality, quantity, and pristine conditions of the bottles inside, matching the wine description, vintage, and volume (bottle format) indicated on the OWC. Hence, indicating that no one messed around with the content of the case. 

NB: Note that, back then, in most case scenarios, most Auction Houses did not open and/or necessarily inspect the content (of the unopened or even sealed/banded OWC cases). Consequently, the ownership, the provenance, and the storage conditions (the most recent history of the case) represented the sole guarantees of the good conditions of the bottles and the wine inside (before the sale).   
      
Even though a banded case fetched a little bit more money at auction, back then, documented pristine provenance, ownership, and storage conditions history were usually the most important factors and necessary pieces of information (if /when available and beyond authentication of the wine's identity) when it came to assessing a wine's value at auction. 

Yet, back then, it often happened that auction houses bought cases of wine only based on the good words of their owners, with no documentation whatsoever. Therefore, they had no authentication proof of genuineness and no real idea of the condition of the wine inside, occasionally allowing (knowingly or unknowingly) cases and wines, either fraudulent or in bad condition, to be sold at Auctions.  

Bidders and collectors usually paid a higher price for such pristine, untouched, unopened, and sealed OWC cases back then (they still do now, if or when they can find such a case—that is, a case of usually younger vintage). 

When wines were put up for sale at Auctions, many bidders and collectors considered an unopened original wooden case to be more valuable, as it was evident that the wine had not been tampered with or manipulated since it was released from the winery. Even more so if the OWC was banded. 

Before 2008 (roughly), Auction Houses generally agreed that for unopened, sealed, or banded OWC, the band or seal should not be cut, and the case should not be opened - unless there were concerns regarding the condition or origin of the item. In such cases, the case would be opened and thoroughly inspected.  

However, things have changed since then.    

Nowadays, although the matter of cutting/breaking the band and opening the OWC cases (for full inspection) is still debated, most Auction Houses have adopted a different attitude toward the matter by saying, contrastingly compared to a decade ago, that it is now necessary to open previously unopened/untouched and/or even banded/sealed OWC cases to check and inspect the content. 

Although not error-proof, this practice considerably diminished the presence of fakes and counterfeits in auction houses' sales.   



Rudy Kurniawan - Photograph by Ricardo DeAratanha courtesy of Los Angeles Times - Getty



Fake and Counterfeits: the "Rudy Kurniawan" case


This change of attitude (from the Auction Houses) was first triggered around 2008, when rumours of large quantities of counterfeits and fake wine bottles had been spreading throughout the market for a few years already, and suspicions were high. 

Although counterfeits and fakes existed well before, mainly since the 1960s-70s, they always remained quite low in numbers and, except on a few notable yet rare occasions, only appeared or were only spotted occasionally and sporadically up until the early 2000s, or so it seems. This was probably due to the lack of knowledge, information, and expertise on the subject back then, and thus the lack of anti-counterfeits measures and tools.   

Then, in the late 2000s and early 2010s, it became evident that high-quality counterfeits and fakes had been around for a while and were sold at auctions and private sales. This observation was triggered by the case of Domaine Ponsot counterfeited bottles sold at auction by Acker Merall & Condit. 

The story goes that, in 2008, Rudy Kurniawan, a fine wine collector, nicknamed "Dr Conti" for his collection and love for DRC, consigned about 84 bottles supposedly to be from Domaine Ponsot at auction, including a bottle of 1929, which could not have existed as the Domaine only started bottling in 1934. 

Laurent Ponsot (of Domaine Ponsot) flew to New York to ensure that the counterfeited bottles of his family domaine's Clos St Denis, listed in the Acker Merall & Condit auction, would not appear at the auction, and yet... they did. 

Mr Ponsot worked closely with the FBI, which led to the arrest of Rudy Kurniawan on 8 March 2012. He was sentenced to 10 years in prison, and the rest is history. Rudy counterfeited many other high-end wines, including DRC. The imitations were said to be so close to the real thing that, despite efforts to retrieve them, many of Rudy's counterfeited bottles are still on the market. 

Another of Rudy's victims, Bill Koch, filed a lawsuit against him in 2009, alleging Kurniawan knowingly sold fake bottles to him and other collectors at auctions and privately.

If you do not know the story, watch the 2016 movie Sour Grapes, which is based on Rudy's case (on Netflix). 

Even though, as a Sommelier and Wine buyer and in my current position as Wine Quality Control director, I have been fighting to prevent counterfeited and fake bottles by meticulously inspecting and always buying and selling genuine wines with proven authenticity, provenance, and conditions, I must admit that it is quite fascinating how Rudy Kurniawan succeeded in doing such a "Tour de force"!

In March 2012, Rudy Kurniawan was arrested for counterfeiting and selling fake wine bottles (for at least 6 years before his arrest). This incident brought to light the issue of counterfeit and fake wines in the auction industry. Auction houses began to inspect all the bottles they sell more carefully to prevent such incidents from happening again. And yet, there are still plenty of counterfeit and fake bottles around, as Rudy was only one of many counterfeiters. A very talented one, but not the only one, as other groups of counterfeiters have been found, dismantled, and imprisoned since then. 

Rudy counterfeited numerous unique bottles of iconic wines, such as magnums of Le Pin 1982, Chateau Lafleur 1947, and other Bordeaux, as well as Domaine de la Romanee Conti and Domaine Ponsot, among other Burgundy wines. From the early 2000s until his arrest in 2012, he successfully sold his counterfeited bottles to his friends, acquaintances, auction bidders, and collectors via private dinners and some of the world's most famous Auction Houses. 

Rudy's first fake lots were sold at two major auctions at Acker Merrall and Condit in 2006, which generated long-lasting bidder suspicions toward this particular auction house, right after his arrest in March 2012. 

Yet, other prestigious Auction Houses such as Christie's, Sotheby's, and Spectrum Wine Auctions also fell into Rudy's trap, denounced the scam, and/or ended up withdrawing some suspicious lots right before some of their auctions.       

Rudy's scam scheme and arrest marked a critical historical time for auction houses and the world wine market. The auction market was wounded. Bidders were suspicious. Both wine professionals and the public came to realise that the market was, in fact, flooded with fakes and counterfeits. More importantly, Rudy was only the tip of the iceberg, as a few other wine fraudsters and counterfeiters were also arrested around the same time period, in the early 2010s. 

Since then, it has been said that at least 15-20% of the top-tier wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy are probably fakes or counterfeits, especially vintages from the 80s and before. If you take Lafite Rothschild, for example, there are probably more bottles in the market than the original total amount produced at the Chateau.      

Historically, wine fraud has always existed, one way or another. Whether it was 
  • Enhancing weak wine (due to weak vintage) with other (unauthorised) grape varieties from warmer climates (i.e., adding Rhone grape varieties to Pinot Noir in Burgundy),  
  • Adding Spanish grapes such as Tempranillo or other grapes from the Languedoc (even from North Africa, e.g. Morocco) to strengthen weak Bordeaux wines,
  • Adding water to increase the volume/quantity, 
  • Adding sugar to increase the alcohol level, 
  • Adding wood chips in stainless steel tanks to increase wood flavors and tannins, 
  • etc... 
These are just a few examples, yet, whatever else you can think of, it has probably been done, one way or another.               

Until the early 1980s, certain fraudulent practices were accepted and even admitted as common practices to a certain extent, as most people knew about them. Some even revealed that they were applying them, disregarding the law, even if it was against the Appellation of Origin's rules. 

As mentioned above, for a few decades until the early 80s, bulk wines from Languedoc, Spain, or even some northern African countries (e.g., Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia...) reaching Bordeaux to reinforce the wines in weak vintages were not uncommon practices. Still, no illustrious Bordeaux producers will ever tell you that...  



Robert Parker Jr.  - Photo courtesy of https://www.theyachtcruwineguide.com/



1982: The first great vintage that changed Bordeaux winemaking methods under the influence of the American taste. 


What happened next changed the wine-buying and selling scene forever. Robert Parker Jr., a lawyer passionate about wine, wrote detailed and persuasive notes and reviews about all the wines he tasted, consigning them to a newsletter primarily intended for his family, friends, and colleagues. He visited Bordeaux to assess, evaluate, and rate the 1982 vintage. 

The quality of the 1982 Bordeaux vintages was the result of a combination of the vintage's exceptional conditions during the growing and ripening seasons, which had not been seen for the last few decades, not since 1961 at least, 21 years earlier (most of the 60s and 70s in Bordeaux being terrible in terms of wine quality and consistency); as well as the consequences of the first of a long list of heat waves that have become very common, or even became the new norm (I should say), due to the rapid increase of climate and weather changes and global warming, over the last 40 years, which, interestingly enough, produced some of the most spectacular Bordeaux vintages such as 1985, 1989, 1990, 2005, 2009, 2010, 2015, 2016, 2019, 2020... 

...and even the controversial 2003 that most connoisseurs, buyers and critics rated it very high during the En Primeurs campaign (personally, I hated it then when I tasted during the En Primeur campaign in Bordeaux, as it was one of the most over-riped, unbalanced and inconsistent vintages I ever tasted), However, they realised their mistakes once bottled, 2 years later, when they start lowering their scores, while mentioning the same flows I had found 2 years earlier (during the campaign). It ended up being one of the most challenging Bordeaux vintages to sell (lots of cancelled orders and the wine remained on the retailer's shelves for years).    

However, going back to the 1982 vintage, once super highly rated by Robert Parker Jr. and America having bitten the hook, from that moment on, Bordeaux wine (and also Burgundy to a certain extent) ceased to be an accessible and approachable beverage of choice to the mass and became a luxury item, a commodity, an object of speculation, a financial investment, which would rapidly become highly sought-after and speculated upon by both amateurs and avid wine collectors. 

From that moment on, the top tiers of Bordeaux and Burgundy ceased to be consumed for pleasure, prices gradually skyrocketed, and they evidently became wines for investment to generate a profit, more than for consumption. It became an object of "convoitise"! 

Parker's visit to Bordeaux and the resulting 1982 vintage ratings he produced in his newsletter (wine publication) called the "Wine Advocate" and those from the other critics and wine magazines, who followed in his footsteps, forever impacted the wine world. It was "The" turning point in wine fraud history. Basically, that's when it all started.     


The 80s, 90s and 2000s: A new era for counterfeiters


Back then, wine bottles were not as protected as they are nowadays, and thus, it was easier for counterfeiters to replicate and duplicate bottles, capsules, labels, and even corks. Technologies such as micro-etchings, glass and laser engraving, and other methods of engraving, printing or embossing of serial numbers on the bottle, capsule, label or cork, as well as the use of holograms, invisible ink, special papers and even specific glues, were not as numerous, available and accessible as today and thus were only used by a minority.  

Nowadays, all these technologies, with additional security such as QR codes or Prooftag labels, help producers better authenticate their own bottles and guarantee their genuine provenance, giving consumers peace of mind about the authenticity of the bottles they buy. 

Yet, it might not be enough, as counterfeiting has also evolved to circumvent these technologies. Consequently, antifraud specialists, in partnership with some producers, have now started using blockchain technology with encrypted data, supposedly providing complete transparency on all transactions and thus, in theory, hackproof, to authenticate wine bottles' authenticity and provenance.   

As per Wikipedia: "One of the most famous, alleged purveyors of label fraud is wine collector Hardy Rodenstock. In the 1980s and 1990s, Rodenstock hosted a series of high-profile wine-tasting events of old and rare wines from his collection, including many from the 18th and 19th centuries. He invited to these tastings dignitaries, celebrities, and internationally acclaimed wine writers and critics such as Jancis Robinson, Robert M. Parker, Jr., and Michael Broadbent, who at the time was a director at the London auction house Christie's and considered one of the world's foremost authorities on rare wine."
 
Therefore, Rudy was not the first wine fraudster and counterfeiter, and surely won't be the last. Who knows? He might do it again after his release from prison in 2022. However, on a positive note, his arrest and sentence to 10 years in prison had the merit to open the eyes of the producers, wine merchants and auctioneers to acting and finding solutions to prevent fakes and counterfeits from being sold, especially at auctions, were provenance is not always clear or known.  


Counterfeit bottles in auctions


Although security and authentication measures have drastically increased since the 1980s and 90s, counterfeited bottles might still be found in auctions, as provenance cannot always be verified. Understandably, despite a small amount coming directly from the producers, most wine bottles and cases found in auctions come from private cellars and sellers willing to sell some of their collections. 

Consequently, some of these bottles and cases may have been bought directly via producers providing them with small allocations and/or official wine merchants, then left in ideal conditions in a cellar until they are sold in auctions. These are fine and may not present much of an issue regarding authentication, provenance, and conditions, especially if the seller kept the receipt and/or other proof of the provenance.   

However, what about the bottles and cases bought through previous auctions that may have belonged to several owners and may have been around the world a few times? 

Those are definitely an issue to begin with, especially the old and rare vintages of top-tier wines and the large formats from particular producers that are highly sought-after for investment and speculation rather than for consumption, as it is not uncommon to buy bottles and cases of wines that were previously sold a few years ago through another auction, from the same auction house or a different one, located on the other side of the planet. Consequently, it is difficult to trace back and verify the authenticity, provenance, and, more especially, the condition of these bottles.   

It is quite common to find specific bottles and cases sold by an auction house and find them 2-3 years later being sold by the same or a different auction house. 

For example, the buyer who bought the one-of-a-kind jeroboam of Romanée-St-Vivant 2017 from Burgundy's rising star Negiciant/producer Olivier Bernstein, which was auctioned back in 2022, by UK-based fine wine merchant "Cult Wines", with a reserve price of £50,000 (GBP), might keep this bottle for a few years, then resell it a few years later for an even higher price. Although it was sold in the UK, finding it at another auction in France, Switzerland, New York, or Hong Kong would not be surprising. 

This scenario happens constantly and much more frequently than most people think. However, most buyers do not care about the provenance or condition of the bottle because their main and only interest is to make a profit out of it, not to drink it.        

That explains why, 10-15 years ago, standard practices were to leave all sealed OWC untouched and supposedly in their original conditions, despite having maybe travelled around the world and been stored in unknown conditions between the sales.  

That said, auctioneers usually do not cut the band for younger vintages that are sealed with the original band from the chateau/domaine, as there is no real need for it, especially if/when the case comes directly from the producer or a reputable negociant/wine merchant. 

For older and rare vintages, specific large formats and/or specific top-tier producers often targeted by counterfeiters (*), nowadays, most auctioneers tend to break or cut the band/seal and open the case to proceed to the full inspection of each bottle in each case for each lot, to check not only the authenticity of the bottles (verifying the details of the bottle, label and capsule (and even cork, if/when possible), marked with one or several of the various technologies cited above, if/when possible) but also the condition of the bottles by looking at the wine colour, sediments and other things indicating the conditions (e.g. any seepage or leakage, cork pushed out or sucked in, for example, indicating bad storage conditions, either in the owner's cellar or during transit, therefore impacting both the wine and its price).

(*) As per the specialists on the subject, the following producers have been identified as the most counterfeited in the world:

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Henri Jayer, Domaine Dujac, Château Cheval Blanc, Château Petrus, Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Latour, Château Mouton Rothschild, Château Lafleur, Château Le Pin, Château Latour à Pomerol, Château Rayas, Jaboulet La Chapelle Hermitage, Sassicaia, Soldera Brunello di Montalcino, Bruno Giacosa Barolo, etc.

That is the main reason why the auction houses have changed their views on opening previously unopened OWC. Even if it decreases the case's value, it's better to be safe than sorry.

On the last note, OWC cases are also usually opened to verify the authenticity, quality, condition, and provenance and to be photographed for both the auction's record purposes and the production of the auction house's catalogue and website.



Unopened vs. Opened Original Wooden Cases Comparison Table 


However, to return to the original subject and finish this (lengthy) post, after all the explanation above, I hope you better understand why unopened original wooden cases of wine have more value than opened ones. 

Yet, if you still need convincing, here is an "Unopened vs. Opened Original Wooden Cases" comparison table (a visual table is better to understand when comparing), including the various reasons why: 


  

 

Unopened Original Wooden Cases

Opened Original Wooden Cases

Provenance

We buy directly from the Château/winery or from the official vendors/distributors/wine merchants. Therefore, we can prove the bottles' provenance and authenticity.

 

Provenance and authenticity could be hazardous.

The history of the cases may not be known.

Especially when not bought directly from the Chateau/winery or from the official vendors/distributors/wine merchants (e.g., auctions)

 

Quality

 

Unopened OWC means that all bottles come from the same source and therefore have not been mixed with bottles from other cases and should present the same quality as kept in the same conditions (T/H)

 

Bottles could have been mixed from other cases and the case reconstituted, and therefore, may present variations.

Conditions

 

Bottle and wine conditions are pristine when bought and shipped directly from the Chateau/winery or the official vendors/distributors/wine merchants, as always, at a constant T/H level.

 

Conditions may not have been ideal if the case had been opened, and the bottles had been checked, removed, and then put back.

Customer's Assurance

Unopened OWC is a reassurance for customers regarding the provenance, quality, and conditions.

 

Previously opened OWC might / will automatically raise customer questions about provenance, quality, conditions, and even authenticity.

 

Value

 

Unopened original wooden cases (OWC) have a higher value for all the reasons above and should not be opened for those reasons unless to check the conditions of the bottles inside, in case of doubt on the quality of the bottles or to proceed with a full inspection of the bottles (when/if needed)

 

Technically, opened original wooden cases (OWC) have a lesser value for all the reasons above. 






That's all, folks! I hope you enjoyed reading this post as much as I enjoyed writing it. Thank you for reading it to the end.  


Thank you, 

Santé! Cheers!

LeDomduVin (a.k.a. Dominique Noël) 


To end this post, I added a little text to my revisited "Mona Lisa" painting about natural wines...
Probably the subject of my next post... 




Mona Lisa with a glass of wine and a bottle by  ©LeDomduVin 2020 (V2 - Natural wine)
Mona Lisa with a glass of wine and a bottle by
©LeDomduVin 2020 (V2 - Natural wine)



"This natural wine smells and tastes like shit, but I have to keep smiling for appearance's sake..."
- Mona Lisa, 1503 😉😁😂👍🍷


#davinci #monalisa #monalisarevisited #famouspainting #famouspaintingrevisited #paintingrevisited #lespeinturesrevisiteesadom #lesrevisitesadom #monalisawithaglassofwine #monalisawithabottleofwine #lajoconde #lajoconderevisitée #wine #vin #vino #wein #ledomduvin @ledomduvin #lescreationsadom #lesillustrationsadom #valueofanunopenedowc #owc #originalwoodencase #owcunopenedvsopened #originalwineryband #originalwineband #wineband




Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2020, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).

Sunday, November 18, 2018

LeDomduVin: Counterfeit Wines - Questions Answered for a Thesis


Counterfeit Wines - Questions Answered for a Thesis



Thesis Bordeaux Grands Crus Illustration by ©LeDomduVin 2018



Recently, I was contacted via email by a student in the Master of Science in Wine Management at the Wine and Spirits Business School of Dijon. Her name is Manon Lledo, and in order to help her in her research work for her thesis, she asked for my help and knowledge to answer a few questions regarding the subject of her thesis, "e-commerce and counterfeiting risk(s) in China for Bordeaux Grands Crus". 

I obliged this young lady by answering her questions to the best of my knowledge and experience, without getting into too many details or deviating from the subject (as I usually do), based on my last seven years of experience working in Hong Kong and traveling to China monthly. Years that I also spent scrutinizing the market with numerous monthly market analyses, as well as inspecting and authenticating all the bottles that the company I work for purchases.

A few days after, I asked her if I could use this "interview" as a post on my blog, as, after all, I'm well involved in the subject of fake and counterfeit wines in my daily routine at work. I wanted to share that knowledge and my answers with you all (as I did previously in my previous posts about fake and counterfeit wines, read them here, here and/or here). 


Quai des Chartons (Painting at Millesima in Bordeaux City) - Photo courtesy of Schiller-Wine Blog


I have been in the wine business for the past 27 years, purchasing wines from all over the world, with a particular focus on Bordeaux and Burgundy, directly from the Châteaux and domaines, as well as from négociants and other sources. Although I have not held a "Wine Buyer" position since 2012, I have worked as a Sommelier and wine buyer for restaurants, as well as wine and spirits boutique retail stores, for 21 years, before taking on my current position as Wine Quality Control Director and Market Analyst six years ago. Therefore, although I may not have all the answers, I certainly have an educated opinion to offer in response to these questions.

Moreover, the company I work for mostly buys the top 250 wines in the world (70% Bordeaux, 20-25% Burgundy, and 5-10% of the rest of the world), with an increasing collection of more than 700,000 bottles with vintages going as far back as 1825. So there again, I may not have all the answers, but for the last 6 years, all cases and bottles we bought were inspected and/or authenticated by our Head of Purchasing and me. Hence, I can say with confidence that I have a certain experience and that I'm very acquainted with how to fish out fake and counterfeit bottles.


So here they are, her questions, my answers... 



Wine Buying Process with Pre- and Post-Purchase Inspections by ©LeDomduVin 2018


Where do you buy Bordeaux Grands Crus from?


1. For the younger vintages (and some old when available):

We buy directly from the Chateaux (when possible) and/or from the Négociants to ensure
  • Quality (wine directly from the source and never previously moved from the Chateaux or the Négociants' warehouses) 
  • Conditions (genuine unopened OWC if possible, and if opened, we make sure the capsule, label, level, color, sediment,s and overall bottle conditions are pristine) 
  • Provenance (traceability, direct from the source, bottling certificate, and other certificates when/if available) 
  • Storage conditions (Chateaux or Negociants warehouses only)
  • as well as to secure allocations and consolidate our relationship with the Chateaux and Négociants 


Wine Buying Process Visual with Pre- and Post- Purchase Inspections by ©LeDomduVin 2018 (extract 1)


2. For older vintages: 

Despite occasionally buying older vintages from "La Place de Bordeaux", we more often source our wines from various sources, including auction houses, private collectors, brokers, and occasionally retail. However, Quality Control inspections are conducted both pre-purchase and post-purchase to ensure the quantity, quality, and condition of the cases and bottles.

Pre-purchase investigation and inspection occur before buying or receiving goods (when allowed and/or possible), either physically when possible or via pictures (if the wines have been purchased in another country), and consist of checking and verifying.

  • Integrity and genuineness of the seller/distributor/retail/auction house/private collector
  • Provenance (traceability, info on previous owners, certificate if available, history of the bottle(s))
  • Authentication of the bottles by close and detailed inspection of the capsule, cork, level, label(s), bottle, color, sediments, and overall conditions based on the vintage and facts/knowledge about the wine
  • Rejection (if any) based on the results of the inspection/authentication of the cases/bottles
  • Final negotiation and buying selection based on the results of the inspection

Wine Buying Process Visual with Pre- and Post-Purchase Inspections by ©LeDomduVin 2018 (extract 2)


Post-purchase inspection occurs before or at goods reception (especially if Pre-Purchase Inspection has not been done before buying or receiving goods) to verify the goods.
  • Cases and/or bottles quantity, quality, and overall conditions 
  • Detailed inspection of the capsule, cork, level, label(s), bottle, color, and sediments, based on the vintage and facts/knowledge about the wine 
  • Authentication is needed when in doubt  
  • Incident report if seepage, leakage, and/or if the bottle and label conditions do not correspond to the descriptions stated in the catalog or via email, and/or the pictures seen before receiving and physically inspecting the goods 




LeDomduVin a.k.a. Dominique Noel doing a casual inspection of a bottle of Petrus 1969 - ©LeDomduVin 2018 


Have you ever been the victim of counterfeiting regarding Grands Crus? 


As we carefully verify the integrity and genuineness of all our suppliers and other sources, and as we conduct detailed inspections and authentications of all the bottles we purchase (both pre- and post-purchase), I don’t think so, but it's possible that it might have happened; you never know.

Despite my knowledge, experience, and ongoing learning in that field, it is sometimes challenging to distinguish between genuine and counterfeit products, as counterfeits are becoming increasingly difficult to spot. I take numerous notes and pictures during the various inspections and authentications of the bottles we purchase, which I keep as records. When in doubt, I systematically review these records to compare, verify, and confirm whether it is a genuine bottle or a counterfeit.

However, it has happened that, sometimes, I gave some bottles the benefit of the doubt as I couldn’t find any materials or enough details within my own records from the previous inspection(s) of the exact wine in the same vintage. In this specific case, I usually check the internet and do some research. It has happened that I have even emailed the winery with questions regarding details on labels, capsules, or the bottle, but I rarely received any answers.

I'm sure that, within our stocks, and more especially amongst the bottles bought from auctions and eventually from some private collectors, some might be counterfeits. Despite all the precautions we take and the inspections and authentications we conduct, this is a possibility.



LeDomduVin a.k.a. Dominique Noel doing a casual inspection of a bottle of Petrus 1961 - ©LeDomduVin 2018


The problem is how to prove it when sometimes you lack details in your own records, lack knowledge on a specific bottle, label, or vintage, cannot find anything on the internet, and even the Chateau is not responding to your emails? How can you do it? Unless you open the bottle and taste the wine, how can you do it? More especially when it's a bottle of Petrus (or DRC Romanée-Conti) at 30,000 HKD (3,350 Euros), how can you do it?

Consequently, I must admit that, unfortunately, for all the reasons cited above and despite all the procedures we have in place to prevent it, yes, we may have been the victim of counterfeiting. Yet, within the market of luxury goods, including the top wines of Bordeaux, counterfeits are nearly unavoidable.





The Top 9 most counterfeited Bordeaux Grands Crus Wines by ©LeDomduVin 2018 


Which are, according to you, the most counterfeited Bordeaux Grands Crus? 


The top 25 Bordeaux for sure, but more especially the top 10, and mostly for

  • the older vintages (from 1990 vintage and older) (e.g. Petrus 1961, Cheval Blanc 1947), 
  • the vintages with high scores (95 – 100) 
  • and/or the most expensive names/vintages 

But if we list them according to the counterfeit bottles I saw and/or inspected in my 27-year career, there are not many names or many vintages in fact, and a list of the most counterfeited Bordeaux Grands Crus wines could be reduced to:

  • Right bank: Petrus, Cheval Blanc, Lafleur (some also claim Le Pin, but, personally, I've never seen any fake Le Pin) 
  • Left Bank: Lafite, Mouton, Latour, Haut-Brion (some may say Margaux too, but, here again, personally, I've never seen a fake Margaux either) 



Petrus 1985 Label's comparison by © LeDomduVin 2018



Like all luxury goods, wine counterfeiting has always existed. Yet, over the last 15 to 20 years, it has become a very lucrative and growing business. Although some may be in the business of creating fake cheap wines (as it also a lucrative business), counterfeiters usually prefer to keep big and fast money in mind and have bigger aim than common mass-market wines, so counterfeiting mainly concerned the best Chateaux in their best vintages (in my opinion and from my experience). Those that are the most renowned and the most recognizable globally, and/or correspond to something in specific markets, like “Lafite” in China (where there is probably more wine than the Chateau ever produced...).

Understandably, it is logistically easier, more efficient, and less costly for a counterfeiter to produce just a few bottles of Petrus (or DRC) at 30,000 HKD (3,350 Euros) a bottle, than to produce a larger quantity of cheap wine at 300 HKD (33,5 Euros), for example.




LeDomduVin a.k.a. Dominique Noel doing a casual inspection of a bottle of Petrus 1969 - ©LeDomduVin 2018 


Do you buy wines online for your business?  


In general, no, but it has happened sometimes when looking for very specific wines in particular vintages, with barely or no availability on the market. In that case, if we buy from the UK or Switzerland, for example, we contact the online retailers directly and ask for high-resolution pictures of the good at different angles as well as some info about provenance, previous ownership, and conditions of storage, etc... before buying (or not) the particular wine.  

If the retailer cooperates, we may purchase the wine, depending on the overall condition of the bottle(s) and the information received (of course). Yet, not all online wine retailers are able or willing to cooperate by sending pictures and/or detailed information. In that specific case, we definitely do not buy the wine. 


If no: why? 


Top 6 Wine Websites For Market Prices Search by ©LeDomduVin 2018




We do research on Wine-Searcher and other websites (i.e., Liv-Ex, Cellar-Watch, Wine Market Journal, etc) to compare availability and prices, to do market analysis, and make buying decisions on offers and sales, but we rarely buy from online retailers for reasons such as
  • some online retailers may have a fake listing, meaning that you can see remaining quantity on Wine-Searcher and on their own website, but when you email them or phone them directly regarding that specific wine, they usually are "coincidentally" out of stock or they never had such items in their stock
  • storage conditions are not always known, ideal or adequate for the high-end wines
  • online retailers may not be cooperative in providing us with high-resolution pictures and info about  the wine prior to buying 

So, if not provided, unless the needed info is specifically stated on their website with clear and high definition pictures to check details, it is too difficult to check the provenance and bottle conditions, and therefore, we prefer not to buy.


Some online retailers/businesses may provide traceability proof + high def pictures on demand prior buying for you to check the goods prior making a buying decision, but it usually only happens if you are a good customer with "buying history" with them and if you have a trustable seller/buyer relationship with them; otherwise you are like anybody else, you place your order "blind", without being able to get details you need and may end up disappointed at good receiving.

Moreover, with online retailers, you are never really sure where the bottles are coming from and how and where they were stored previously. So, not only do you have no guarantee of the provenance, but also have no guarantee of the wine conditions. The high-end bottles you just bought may have been around the world 10 times already, and/or may be counterfeit. Who knows?




Boutique Wine Store or Online Wine Retailer? by © LeDomduVin 2018


Do you buy wines online for your private consumption? 


Yes, not frequently, but yes, sometimes...

If no: why? 


Not frequently, because unless I already know and like the wine, I prefer going to a store, looking around, reading the labels, and getting inspired in the moment. I worked as a Head Sommelier in restaurants and as a Store Manager/Wine Buyer for “cavistes” and boutique wine retail stores, so I have always been in close contact with the bottles. I like to take my time and be present within the store to look at and touch the bottles, hesitate, think, read another label, hesitate again, and then finally make a decision between two bottles, usually ending up buying both (or more). 

I’m kind of old school that way. I appreciate the convenience of buying online, but I prefer to shop around and go with my instincts in the moment, browsing the aisles and examining the bottles. In my opinion, there is something impersonal and sterile about buying online, probably due to the lack of direct contact with the product, as well as the inability to chat with the vendor to ask questions and request more details about the wine (which is just my preference).




Buying Wine Online: A Risk or Not? by ©LeDomduVin 2018 


Is there a higher risk of buying wines online? 


It depends, for mass-market wines, but for high-end wines and older vintages, I do think so. More especially in the Asian Markets, where for some reason I have seen over the last 5-6 years the number of top-tier wines in older vintages (the 30s, 40s, 50s, 60s, and even some from the late 1800s) increasing drastically. Are they fake or not? Or is it simply a coincidence? Not sure.... But it is funny to think that back 15-20 years ago, these wines were scarcely found and very rare, nearly unavailable on the market, and nowadays you can pretty much find them anywhere in the major markets (Hong Kong, Singapore, London, New York), and more especially at auctions.

I’m not sure what it means, either people kept these wines for decades and started to resell them recently due to the increased value (x12 for some Lafite over the last 15 years and don't even get me started with DRC...), or there is a very lucrative business for the counterfeiters on the grey and the black markets. One may think that maybe the example of Rudy Kurniawan would have deterred counterfeiters, but it does not seem to be the case.

If we take Lafite 1947 or Lafite 1961, for example, there are respectively 48 and 44 online wine merchants selling them on Wine-Searcher, and it makes me wonder…. Personally, I would not be surprised if half of them or more are actually fake (especially considering the huge price difference for 1961, for example), and/or have been circulated around the world numerous times already via private collectors and auctions, and may no longer be in good condition.

As stated previously above, unless I know well the online retailer and have previously done business with, and I have checked its integrity and background, and received high-resolution pictures and other needed details about the provenance, the previous owner, the conditions of storage, etc... I will seldom buy high-end wines online.






LeDomduVin a.k.a. Dominique Noel doing a casual inspection of a bottle of Petrus 1969 - ©LeDomduVin 2018 


How can you guarantee that the Grands Crus you buy are not counterfeit? 


When we buy directly at the source, either at the wineries or from a reputable and reliable Négociants, we ask for bottling certificate to be provided as well as bottle provenance and conditions (via various documents and pictures), more especially if the bottle(s) does not come from directly or previously from the Chateau.

We also conduct post-purchase inspection and authentication (if possible, before or at the time of receipt), to ensure that the bottles we purchased are in good condition and not counterfeit, and that they correspond to the documents and pictures previously received.

As stated above, when we buy from private collectors, auction houses and/or retails, we also do pre- (when possible) and/or post-purchase inspection and authentication (prior or at good receiving), to ensure the bottle we buy (or just bought) are not in bad conditions or fakes. In doubt, we investigate further. And if the doubt persists, we simply reject the bottle(s) and return them to the seller, receiving reimbursement for them.

Doing these pre- and post-purchase inspections are crucial, essential I should say, as they allow us to filter the bad bottles (bad conditions or fakes), as in turn when we resell them, we ought to be a reliable source for our clients and therefore guarantee that all of our bottles are in pristine conditions and definitely not fakes.

That is why we purchase mainly directly from the Châteaux or from the Négociants to obtain unopened, genuine OWC (Original Wooden Cases), usually sealed with the Châteaux or Négociants' Band, which offers a guarantee and security of the genuineness of the wines for our clients.

As the Wine Quality Control for the company I work for, I conduct all inspections and authentications of the bottles myself. This does not mean that I may not miss some fake or counterfeit bottles, but there is only a slight chance of that happening.




Major Difference  between Prices on Wine-Searcher 
may indicate unreliable/dishonest retailers
by ©LeDomduVin 2018 


Are there more reliable online websites than others?


Yes, of course, a simple study on Wine-Searcher can easily be done to check prices, availability, reliability, and integrity of the online websites, and expose at the same time the retailers that are more reliable than others.

Meaning that within the list of retailers for a particular wine, you may realize that (usually)
  • The retailers with the cheapest prices might do that to attract customers. Still, they do not have the product, and therefore might be dodgy (unreliable/dishonest), and thus should be avoided. Or they have it, but the bottle is in poor or bad conditions (capsule, label, cork, and/or even the wine inside). The bad thing about this is that it drives the "Wine-Searcher Average Market Price" lower for this particular wine, becoming an unreliable reference. 
  • The retailers with the highest prices might also do this to attract customers, or simply because they do not want to sell the product, so they put an over-exaggerated price to show that they have the product, but are not necessarily in a rush to sell it. Like for cheap prices, the bad thing about this is that it drives the "Wine-Searcher Average Market Price" higher for this particular wine, also becoming an unreliable reference.   

That is why "Wine-Searcher Average Market Prices" should always be taken with caution and not always for granted, especially for high-end wines.

Then, after all, it is a question of experience to differentiate the good from the bad ones, like with any other product. The good ones might be for you some online websites/retailers you may know already by experience, or because they are located nearby, or because they provide good services, or because of the reputation, or whatever else.

Like most people, you first conduct your research, compare options, and then determine the price you want to pay. Next, you place your order online and wait to receive the goods.
  • If it's okay at reception, then you might think that this particular online website is reliable and will probably order again.  
  • If not, then you will try to get reimbursed and go through all the difficulties one may encounter when ordering online. 
Personally, I prefer to call the online website or store and ask for more details to be provided before making my final buying decision. If cooperative, then I will have more reasons to trust them; if not, then I will take my business elsewhere (like anybody else, I guess...).


Which ones do you trust? 


Although there are a handful of online websites and retailers that I trust, it's a tricky question to answer, and it would not be fair for me to mention some of these online websites and retailers in this post without mentioning others that I may have missed among the ones we do business with.

All I can say is that it comes down to trust, integrity, reliability, the services provided, and the overall personal experience and relationship with the online merchants.




Where do most of the most expensive wines in the world come from? Map by © LeDomduVin 2018


Do you think there is a bigger risk of counterfeiting for Bordeaux or Burgundy Grands Crus? And Why? 


Simply put, the top 50 best and most expensive wines in the world mostly come from Bordeaux and Burgundy; counterfeiters are into money and the Luxury business, so why look anywhere else?

Big names in fashion, clothes, bags, and other luxury products have been counterfeited for decades as there is a huge market and demand for those, and it is the same for high-end wines (and even mass-market wines to a certain extent).

Look at the price of a 1945 DRC Romanee Conti, which recently fetched US$ 558,000 (roughly 490,445 Euros) at the last Sotheby’s Auction, for example… Well, I'm not saying anything, but I would not be surprised to see a few more bottles of this specific wine reappearing on the market very soon.

A total of 600 bottles were produced, and only 2 were sold during this auction, the rest of the bottles is believed to have either been consumed by now or be part of private collector’s collection, and yet there is already 1 bottle for sale on "Wine-Searcher" at a Belgium wine merchant (here). At the same time, there was none available before the Sotheby’s sale.  So, simple coincidence or resurgence?

The Global Market is unfortunately flooded with fake and counterfeit wines, and the recent drastic price increase of the last 4-5 years is not helping. High-end wines began as a commodity and then became accessible only to the wealthy. They evolved into Luxury products and became assets; they have been traded like a currency for the past two decades, and nowadays, the top 25 wine labels in particular vintages have become rare collectors' items and are no longer considered just wines but invaluable pieces of artwork, fetching never-heard-of stratospheric prices.

Consequently, yes, the higher the prices go, the higher the risk of counterfeiting the Bordeaux and Burgundy Grands Crus will be.....



Petrus 1985 Label's comparison by © LeDomduVin 2018


The labels comparison game


As a visual is worth a thousand words, and after looking at the various pictures above, let's play a little game to test your inspection skills, shall we?... Can you spot all the differences between these two labels of Petrus 1985 in the picture below? Same wine, same vintage, yet so many variations in between the two...... (you can write your results in the comments at the end of this post if you wish)...  And do you know why there are so many variations? (If you don't, ask me, and I'll tell you. Or maybe I should use this little exercise as the subject for one of my previous posts.)



Petrus 1985 Label's comparison by © LeDomduVin 2018



Petrus 1985 Label's comparison by © LeDomduVin 2018



Petrus 1985 Label's comparison by © LeDomduVin 2018







Et Voilà,

That's all for today, folks!!! But stay tuned for more posts coming soon... and let's wish Manon Lledo (the student who asked me these questions) good luck with her thesis, hoping that my answers will help her a little...

Santé! Cheers!

LeDomduVin a.k.a Dominique Noel


©LeDomduVin 2018


@ledomduvin, #ledomduvin, #wine, #vin, #vino, #wein, #oldvintages #bordeaux, #lesphotosadom, #burgundy, #winetalk, #counterfeit, #counterfeitwine #interview, #fakewines, #fake, #blackmarket, #greymarket,  #questionsansweredforathesis



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