LeDomduVin: Subtle Power

Subtle power 

I recently selected and served these wines for a private dinner, and I hadn't tasted them in a while. I was expecting them to be rich and exuberant, but in the end, their strength lay in their subtlety. 

Dom Ruinart Champagne Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2010

Dom Ruinart exclusively selects Chardonnay from primarily Grand Cru sites. 90% of the Chardonnay grapes are sourced from the Côte des Blancs (including Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Avize, Chouilly, and Cramant), planted in the Côte’s famous white, calcareous chalky soil where it excels, benefiting from an easterly exposure. The remaining 10% comes from the north-facing Montagne de Reims, specifically from Maison Ruinart's historic vineyard, located in the Grand Cru areas of the village of Sillery.

Dom Ruinart 2010 represents a significant milestone. In its pursuit of excellence, Maison Ruinart extended the wine's aging process to reveal additional layers of flavor. For this cuvée, the oenological team decided to reintroduce cork during aging, confirming its benefits through years of tastings. After at least 9 years ageing on its lees, it is notable that the cork has imparted a woody character to this vintage, in addition to the aromas of grilled almonds and coffee on the nose and palate. Extra Brut with a dosage of 4 g/L.  

Beyond its pale yellow gold color, the nose is aromatic and fresh, offering aromas of yellow and stone fruits mingling with floral, mineral, toasted, and nutty notes. Overall, the palate is generous, ample, and layered, lingering somewhat, although not as long as I would have liked; yet the finish is fresh and elegant, elevated by a subtle bitterness. As it is neither too heavy nor too light, it is a good champagne to bring to any occasion, ideal as an aperitif with appetizers. A real quaffer!    

Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres 2020

Vincent Bitouzet’s family history in Burgundy spans the last two centuries, with the Bitouzets among the earliest families in the area to bottle their own wines. Vincent’s grandfather received awards for his winemaking in 1860. When Vincent married Annie Prieur, they merged parts of their family estates to establish a renowned domaine. Now, their son Francois Bitouzet, Vincent and Annie’s son, is actively collaborating with his parents.

Based in Volnay, with significant holdings in Meursault, the domaine covers 12 hectares, roughly four of which are planted with Chardonnay, and the remaining eight with Pinot Noir. They practice organic viticulture, and the harvest is manually done. Classic Burgundian winemaking methods are used, using only indigenous yeasts.

The Bitouzet-Prieur family owns just over a quarter-hectare of Chardonnay, planted in 1983, in the lower part of this renowned premier cru "Les Perrières Dessous," located right above "Les Charmes" on the slope. The Meursault-Perrières is probably the most dazzling mineral wine in their collection. While it can be closed when young, it gradually opens up into a stunning white Burgundy with layered complexity. 

I was unsure what to expect from this wine, as it was my first time trying it.  I previously tried other wines from Bitouzet-Prieur, but never this particular one. I'm not sure why I always want to say "Bizoutet" ("Bizouter" is a slang in French that means "kissing" or "giving kisses", which would be a nice and funny name) instead of "Bitouzet". 

However, I was pleasantly surprised, as instead of being a powerhouse of creamy butter, popcorn, and toasted oak flavors, as some Meursault can be (those that are more New World-style than the New World Chardonnays themselves), this wine is all about subtlety, refinement, and elegance. The oak treatment is present but barely noticeable, as only about 25-30% new oak is used during its 16-month aging process, making it significantly more palatable and enjoyable than those using 100% new oak.  

At first, I misinterpreted its subtlety and elegance as a lack of body and weight. I wanted more from it, more fruit, more substance, more backbone. However, it then began to reveal itself after a few seconds. I tasted it again, and then it hit me. It was beautiful and charming. Fresh, light, and elegant yet complex and layered, it was like a ballerina, showcasing power, balance, precision, and sophistication in a subtle and graceful manner. If timid, the nose is fresh and mineral, with aromas of yellow fruits and citrus, combined with a gentle hint of buttery, toasted oak and herbal nuances. The palate is soft, silky, elegant, and refined, gently expanding towards the long, fresh, and mineral finish. Loved it!                   

Drouhin-Laroze Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru 2016

Domaine Drouhin-Laroze has been a family-owned estate for over 150 years, featuring numerous prestigious appellations in the top-tier Premier Cru and Grand Cru categories, which showcases a rich heritage. Today, Philippe and Christine Drouhin, along with their children, manage the estate.

Drouhin-Laroze's Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru comes from an east-facing plot at 260 meters elevation, where the vines were planted in 1973 and 1986. The monks of Bèze established a chapel at that location in 1155. It was reconstructed in 1457 before eventually being destroyed, and it is the origin of the name of the appellation.

Those who follow me for a while know that I'm a huge fan of wines with "Chambertin" in the name. Why? The wines of Gevrey-Chambertin, from the village wines to the Premier Crus and Grands Crus, are some of the most versatile wines of all Burgundy. For a Sommelier like me, they are the easiest to pair with. And this Chapelle-Chambertin from Drouhin Laroze confirmed this rule. 

The 2016 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru features approximately 30% whole-bunch fruit, which adds complexity, texture, and structure. Right after opening, the nose displays fresh aromas of ripe red cherries and berries, mingling with floral, mineral, oaky, and earthy notes, reminiscent of a forest floor, but springier than autumnal. Light to medium-bodied, the palate remains quite subtle and could have benefited from a bit more volume and substance. And yet, it is clean, focused, refined, elegant, and sophisticated in its subtlety, with a finely textured and structured palate that is well-balanced between fruit and acidity, and a silky mouthfeel and fine tannins, all culminating in a lingering mineral earthy finish. Loved it.  

Chateau Lynch-Bages Pauillac Bordeaux 2005

Château Lynch-Bages, situated at the entrance to Pauillac, is a notable estate that has significantly influenced the history of the Médoc wine region. The terroir surrounding the area and the old village of Bages has been recognized since the 16th century, but it achieved broader fame in the 18th century.

According to "The Wine Insider," the Dejean family sold the property in 1728 to Pierre Drouillard. In 1749, Drouillard passed the estate to his daughter, Elizabeth, who was married to Thomas Lynch. That’s how the estate became part of the Lynch family, where it remained for seventy-five years and later on inspired the name "Lynch Bages". (*)

In the 1930s, Jean-Charles Cazes, already managing Les Ormes de Pez in St. Estèphe, took on a lease for Lynch Bages' vineyards. The Cazes family had a long legacy in Bordeaux dating back to the late 1800s. Jean-Charles Cazes later bought both estates just before World War II. Since then, Lynch Bages and Les-Ormes-de-Pez have remained under the Cazes family's management. (*)

Jean-Michel Cazes, who started as an engineer in Paris, entered the wine industry and began managing the estate in 1973. Soon after, he modernized every aspect of Lynch Bages. Jean-Michel Cazes met more people, traveled more often, and promoted his wines worldwide like no other Château owner. Lynch Bages is now one of the most popular and beloved brands in Bordeaux wine, thanks to Jean Michel Cazes's relentless efforts. It’s interesting to note that Jean-Michel Cazes was one of the first château owners to start promoting their wine in China in 1986. (*)

In June 1989, Lynch Bages inaugurated its new winemaking facilities, perfectly timed to celebrate one of the finest vintages they've ever produced. That same year also saw the opening of the Cordeillan-Bages hotel and restaurant. A few years afterward, the renovated Village de Bages, featuring various shops, was established.(*)

In 2006, Jean-Michel's son, also named Jean-Charles Cazes, became the managing director of Château Lynch-Bages. Jean-Michel Cazes continued to lead the family's wine and tourism division. Thanks to ongoing promotion in the Asian market, Château Lynch-Bages remains one of the strongest brands in the region, especially in China.(*)

A benchmark among fine Pauillac wines and one of the most recognizable Bordeaux labels, especially in the US and Asia, Château Lynch-Bages boasts over 90 hectares of vineyard rooted in the region's characteristic Garonne and lower Gironde estuary gravel soil. The hand-picked grapes are initially sorted in the vineyard and then usually aged for 15 months in about 80% new oak barrels.

A blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot, Lynch-Bages benefited from the notoriously warm, sunny, and dry 2005 vintage. The lower yields, caused by dry conditions and water stress, limited production but improved ripening quality, resulting in high-quality grapes. 

The 2005 Lynch-Bages is very seductive and aromatic on both the nose and the palate. In the glass, the color is deep ruby with a slightly brownish hue. On the nose, it boasts a melange of dark berries, cassis, cedar, graphite, and forest floor aromas, with floral notes (such as violet) and earthy undertones. The palate is unexpectedly soft and gentle, medium-bodied and silky, with present yet fine and well-integrated, ripe tannins that add both texture and structure. It has enough acidity to keep it fresh and lively, and is balanced with the ripeness of the fruit, leading to a long, persistent, and delicious earthy finish. Loved it! 

And, once again, being a Pauillac spawned from the 2005 vintage, I was waiting for a bigger wine with more volume and weight, and yet its strength lay in its subtlety.  Well done!     

These are four elegant, refined, stylish wines with a soft expression and a subtle power. 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

(*) Source: https://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/bordeaux-wine-producer-profiles/bordeaux/pauillac/lynch-bages/ 

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LeDomduVin: Domaine Georges Lignier et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Combottes 2019

Domaine Georges Lignier et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Combottes 2019

Domaine Georges Lignier is an acclaimed Burgundy estate based in Morey-Saint-Denis. Georges Lignier is a cousin of Hubert Lignier. Their two estates possess comparable vineyard holdings and present some similarities, yet Georges Lignier's wines are often seen as more delicate and nuanced. 

Since 2008, Benoît Stehly, Georges' nephew, has been managing the estate.

George Lignier's esteemed vineyard portfolio includes over a hectare of Clos de la Roche, a smaller section of Bonnes Mares, and nearly 1.5 hectares (4 acres) of Clos Saint-Denis, making him the largest owner in that vineyard. Overall, there are 16 hectares (40 acres) of vineyards across 17 appellations, divided into 50 parcels.

Winemaking is generally considered traditional. The fruit is harvested slightly later than usual and is usually 80 percent destemmed. Village wines are aged in used oak, premier cru wines incorporate 30 percent new oak, and grand cru wines include about 50 percent new oak. More recent vintages have been bottled without fining or filtration.

This 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Combottes is an elegant and fresh medium-bodied wine. It displays a medium-intensity red ruby color with attractive reflections. The nose is ripe and fresh simultaneously, offering aromas of ripe blackcurrants and dark fruits mingling with floral and earthy nuances. The palate is elegant, medium-bodied yet complex and juicy, with good acidity and present yet integrated tannins, which add freshness and structure. The finish is quite lovely and earthy. Nicely done with a sublime expression of the terroir! 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Champagne Bollinger R.D. 2008. What a mesmerizing champagne!

Champagne Bollinger R.D. 2008

What a mesmerizing champagne!

The history of Champagne Bollinger starts with an unlikely partnership between a French aristocrat, an ambitious German wine merchant, and a passionate local cellar master.

In 1829, Athanase de Villermont, an aristocrat who inherited a vineyard estate in Aÿ but was barred by his noble status from engaging in commercial trade, teamed up with Joseph Bollinger, a German wine merchant who brought his knowledge of international markets, and Paul Renaudin, a local Champagne expert who managed the cellars and winemaking process, to establish the house of Renaudin-Bollinger & Cie, which later became known as Bollinger.

Joseph Bollinger's expertise in international sales and Renaudin's winemaking skills fuelled the company's success, with Bollinger Champagnes becoming highly sought after by European royalty.

The following decades saw the expansion of the estate and the vineyards.

In 1837, Joseph Bollinger married Louise-Charlotte, Athanase’s daughter. His sons, Joseph and later Georges, eventually took over the business. Under their leadership, Bollinger gained fame and significantly expanded its vineyards.

In 1863, Phylloxera was first recorded in France. This pest devastated most wine regions until the early 20th century. Georges Bollinger led the effort to replant vineyards with American rootstocks to combat the phylloxera pest.

In 1920, Jacques Bollinger, Georges’ son, took over managing the family business and is credited with increasing Bollinger’s sales in England, primarily through the popularity of their Special Cuvée Brut. Jacques's wife, Elisabeth Bollinger, better known as “Madame Jacques,” stepped in to run the business after her husband died during World War II.

In 1950, Claude d’Hautefeuille, the husband of Madame Bollinger's niece, whom she had mentored in the company's operations, became Director and initiated a broad modernization effort that honoured Bollinger’s heritage. Madame Bollinger named him Chairman in 1971, but she stayed actively involved until her passing six years afterward.

In 1978, Christian Bizot, Madame Bollinger’s nephew, succeeded Claude as head of the House. An avid traveler, he actively engaged with sommeliers, restaurant owners, and wine merchants to share and promote the House’s wines during his journeys.

In 1994, Ghislain de Montgolfier, the great-great-grandson of founder Joseph Bollinger, became head of the House. He continued to strive to increase quality, in part by limiting production.

In 2008, Jérôme Philipon, a native of Champagne, was appointed as the new Chairman. Unusually, for the first time in the House's history, someone outside the family took on this role.

In 2017, Jérôme Philipon was appointed Deputy Chief Executive Officer of the family holding, and Charles-Armand de Belenet became General Manager of Champagne Bollinger. He is responsible for maintaining traditional craftsmanship while integrating the latest technologies.

Over the years, Bollinger has established its vineyards in the heart of the finest crus of Champagne. Champagne Bollinger’s 180 hectares of vines consist of 85% Grand and Premier crus, managed by their teams of growers across seven separate vineyards: Aÿ, Avenay, Tauxières, Louvois, and Verzenay for Pinot Noir; around the Montagne de Reims; Cuis for Chardonnay on the Côte des Blancs; and Champvoisy for Meunier in the Vallée de la Marne.

Another distinctive feature of Bollinger is the presence of two plots, Clos Saint-Jacques and Chaudes Terres, which have never been affected by phylloxera. These ungrafted vines are carefully maintained by hand and propagated through a layering method known as provignage. This approach helps preserve this remarkable heritage, which is used to produce the highly exclusive cuvée “Vieilles Vignes Françaises”.

The idea behind what would become “Bollinger R.D.” (which stands for “Récemment Dégorgé” in French, meaning "recently disgorged") was conceived in 1963. Madame Bollinger, along with her American agent, decided to sell a few bottles of “Réserve 1947”. 

Although they believed all their champagnes were of high quality and saw no need for a Special or Prestige cuvée, other Champagne houses had such offerings. Therefore, the goal was to compete with the “bouteilles spéciales” or “prestige cuvées” of other Champagne houses.

Madame Bollinger’s brilliant idea was to select an old vintage that was recently disgorged and dosed like an Extra Brut. The recent disgorgement ensures the wine's exceptional freshness and complexity.

In 1967, after some hesitation over the definitive name for the cuvée, Bollinger R.D. (Recently Disgorged) was finally chosen. Three vintages were released simultaneously: 1952 in the English market, 1953 in Switzerland and France, and 1955 in the United States and Italy. It was this vintage, followed by 1959, that established the cuvée's truly international reputation. And the rest is history!

Label of Champagne Bollinger R.D. 2008 (disgorged on October 28th, 2022) (*)

 

Champagne Bollinger R.D. 2008 Extra Brut (Disgorged December 9th, 2022) 

Bollinger R.D. Extra Brut 2008 is a beautiful vintage champagne with exceptional quality and complexity. It is a blend of 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay, from a total of 18 crus, mostly Aÿ and Verzenay for Pinot Noir and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Cramant for Chardonnay. The fermentation occurred entirely in oak barrels. It was aged for about 14 years on its lees and released with a very low dosage at just 3 grams per litre (Extra Brut). The result is flamboyant, vibrant, flavorful, layered, rich, complex, ample, and structured, enhanced with great acidity, and developing brilliantly from the attack to the long, lingering finish. Loved it. 

This champagne is as mesmerizing as looking at the labels with these golden reflections, which I captured in the picture I've put as a header for this post. 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom 

(*) NB: I could not find the label of the Cuvée disgorged on December 09, 2022, like in my picture. So, I put this one, disgorged on October 28th, 2022. Some larger formats, magnum and double-magnum, have been disgorged on November 17th, 2022. 

Sources: Info mostly taken and edited by and for www.ledomduvin.com courtesy of https://www.champagne-bollinger.com/en

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LeDomduVin: Underestimated Vieux Château Certan Pomerol 2014

Underestimated Vieux Château Certan 

Pomerol 2014

Why underestimated? VCC 2014 now delivers more than it did a few years ago since its release. And that’s often the case for lesser Bordeaux vintages. 

The 2014 vintage experienced a challenging growing season, characterized by a mild winter and a summer that alternated between heat spikes and periods of cool, rainy weather. Consequently, the vintage is known for its uneven quality, with some estates producing some good wines while others struggled. 

As they like to say in Bordeaux, the resulting wines are more “traditional”, more “classic”, meaning that they are usually a bit more austere, leaner, and offering less complexity, texture, substance, and structure than celebrated vintages such as 2000, 2005, 2009, 2010, 2015, 2016, etc… 

 

I’m usually the first to be hesitant about buying lesser Bordeaux vintages. As a Sommelier and Wine Buyer, I mostly purchase good to outstanding vintages in search of the “Wow!” factor and immediate customer satisfaction, rather than spending time explaining to my customers why a lesser vintage can also be good, considering blah, blah, blah.

Moreover, most restaurants and sommeliers offer lesser vintages on their wine lists to capitalize on the name and give customers the impression that they are buying a good wine, while it is a lesser vintage.

This allows them to increase the margin and maximize profit, despite the wine not being of high quality. Yet, because it is a well-recognized brand, people easily fall into the trap. 

Recently, I noticed that some wine lists are selling Bordeaux 2011, 2013, and 2017, which are average vintages, at prices comparable to those of better vintages. It is a scam.

I have never done that in my entire 33-year career, and I have always refused to do it; it gives a bad image and reputation to both the restaurant and the Sommelier.

Yet, I’m also the first to be willing to retry lesser vintages a few years later to check on their evolution and whether their taste has improved for the better. This is the case for the Vieux Chateau Certan 2014.  

Although Vieux Chateau Certan is one of my favorite Bordeaux wines, and I have always been pleased with most vintages I've tasted, I admit that I was not very fond of the 2014 vintage when I tasted it a few years ago. I found it hard and dry, austere and tannic, and closed.  

Yet, I decided to give it another chance a few weeks ago by selecting it for a private dinner, and I was both pleasantly surprised and satisfied. It was a gamble, as I hadn't tasted it in a few years, and it could have turned out worse. 

Yet, it is rarely the case with Vieux Chateau Certan, as it is one of those wines that usually improves with time and rewards those patient enough to wait for it (like Haut-Brion, which is another favorite of mine and an excellent example of a wine with outstanding ageing potential that develops for the better with time).    

Moreover, a Sommelier/Wine Buyer needs to taste and re-taste lesser vintages, not only to check the evolution of the wine, but also to eliminate their "a priori" expectations about the wine, especially if it has improved. One has to admit when they are wrong. Only idiots don't change their minds and stick stubbornly to their preconceived ideas. How can you assume a lesser vintage wine has not evolved and remained the same if you haven't tried it again? 

It is perhaps a characteristic of Bordeaux wines, but even lesser vintages can improve with age and become surprisingly good after a few years, making them worth revisiting.    

Vieux Château Certan Pomerol Bordeaux 2014

The estate's history begins with the Demay family, who were wine merchants in Bordeaux. Early records indicate that the property has been in existence since at least the mid-1700s. The wines were initially sold under the name Sertani.

The estate's name changed over time, and by the late 18th century, it was listed as "Sertan" on the Belleyme Map. In the 19th century, Charles de Bousquet, a banker, bought the estate and led major renovations, including the construction of the iconic tower, which became a symbol of its prominence.

In 1924, Georges Thienpont, a Belgian wine merchant, purchased Vieux Château Certan. The Thienpont family has remained the owners ever since, with Alexandre Thienpont currently managing the estate. In 1979, Marcel and Gérard Thienpont, part of the family, founded the nearby micro-cuvée estate, Château Le Pin.

I had the opportunity to meet Alexandre Thienpont and visit the estate, as well as taste the wines, during the En Primeur campaigns in the mid-to-late-2000s.

In France, it is often said that the wine resembles its maker, and that is precisely the case for Vieux Château Certan. Alexandre Thienpont is a bright, intelligent, highly knowledgeable, and skilled individual. Yet, he is a gentle, timid, and reserved person who only warms up and becomes much more approachable and personable when he feels comfortable with you.

Vieux Chateau Certan is the same, especially in lesser vintages; it needs time to develop and adapt to the environment and service conditions before delivering its full potential. Once opened, it is a suave and silky wine, rich, layered, and complex, precise and focused, almost intellectual, with excellent balance, texture, and structure. I love it.

The 14-acre vineyard is planted with a mix of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and a small percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon, a classic blend of Pomerol. The estate's winemaking practices emphasize careful attention to detail and a focus on achieving optimal ripeness and balance in the grapes.

Vieux Château Certan is recognized as one of Pomerol's oldest and most esteemed estates, producing wines renowned for their elegance, complexity, and exceptional aging potential.

 

A blend of 80% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon, Vieux Château Certan 2014 showcases a beautiful interplay of freshness and fruit character. Surprisingly, it is now much more open than it was a few years ago. It offers exquisite aromas of blackberry and wild strawberry, mingling with floral and stony nuances, as well as earthy notes of rose petals, clove, and truffle. The palate is medium-bodied, with crisp acidity and fine tannins (more integrated than in recent years), offering a slightly masculine yet sophisticated character. Linear and precise, with a harmonious balance between freshness and roundness, while possessing excellent texture and structure. The finish is lingering and mineral-driven, with that "je ne sais quoi" of earthy energy characteristic of VCC wines. Love it. 

While enjoyable now, it might improve even more with further aging. I will definitely revisit it in a few years to see if I was right.   

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Chateau Haut-Bailly Pessac-Leognan Bordeaux 2010

 

Chateau Haut-Bailly Pessac-Léognan 

Bordeaux 2010 

I remember when Château Haut-Bailly was purchased by Robert (Bob) G. Wilmers in 1998. 

I was a young sommelier newly arrived in London. I read in the specialized press that Jean Sanders, the grandfather of Véronique Sanders, had sold Haut-Bailly to the Wilmers, a Francophile American banker and his French wife, who entrusted Jean and Véronique with managing the property. 

Daniel Sanders, from Lille and of Belgian descent, purchased the Chateau in 1955. His son, Jean Sanders, took over in 1979, and his granddaughter, Veronique Sanders, joined Haut-Bailly in 1997. In 2000, Veronique became the CEO of Haut-Bailly after her grandfather Jean Sanders retired.   

Although Haut-Bailly was well regarded in the late 1990s and early 2000s, it was not fully leveraging its potential and needed a renaissance. This purchase, along with improvements in winemaking practices and a renewed focus on quality at the estate, combined with Bob's 'spare no expenses' mentality and Veronique's vision, dedication, and ambitions, are often cited as the main reasons for its revival, increased recognition, and popularity. 

In the early 2000s, Château Haut-Bailly underwent a complete renovation and modernization of its cellars. This project was part of a broader effort to improve the quality of their wines after the estate was purchased by Robert G. Wilmers (known as Bob). The cellar upgrades were made to help produce the best wines possible. 

The cellar restoration was accompanied by significant changes to the vineyard. These involved green harvesting to remove underripe grapes and multiple harvesting passes to achieve optimal ripeness. Oenologist Gabriel Vialard joined the team in 2002 to further enhance the winemaking process. 

At that time, I had never visited Haut-Bailly, but I was familiar with the wine, having purchased and sold numerous bottles in various restaurants where I worked in France (1992-1997) and London (1997-2002). Since I loved their wine, I had always promised myself I would pay them a visit someday. 

In 2002, after five incredible years in London, I moved to New York and began working at www.PJWine.com, owned by Peter Yi, one of the largest and most successful wine and spirits retail stores in Manhattan at the time. 

Peter enjoyed traveling to Bordeaux and Spain every year for about 10-12 days (about 7-8 days in Bordeaux + 3-4 days in Spain) during the "En Primeur" period (around mid-April), with part of his team, to taste wines and plan future purchases. 

For five years, from 2002 to 2007, I planned and scheduled these trips in advance by booking visits to the châteaux, making appointments with various négociants, as well as participating to most of the "En Primeur" tastings, such as the "Cru Bourgeois" and the prestigious "Union des Grands Crus" (including booking all the hotels and restaurants in the various appelations and regions we visited). 

Besides working as a wine consultant (then wine director) and one of the wine buyers at his retail store and for the website, I also served as a PA and chauffeur during our travels. Every day, I drove the team from 8am until late at night, visiting 2-3 châteaux in the morning, then having lunch at a restaurant, a château, or with a négociant. The afternoons included more château visits or tastings, and we ended the day with dinner at a restaurant, a château, or with a négociant. Afterwards, we returned to our hotel or the château hosting us, such as Pichon Baron, where we had the opportunity to stay several years in a row. These were full days with busy schedules, as Peter aimed to maximize each day.  

It was a tough job, with extended hours, seven days a week, but it was worth it, and I loved every minute of it. Because, besides tasting, buying, and selling some of the most prestigious wines in the world, who wouldn't enjoy traveling to regions where they're produced to taste them at the property with the owners and/or the winemakers and having lunch and dinner at some of the best Chateaux and restaurants in Bordeaux, the Basque region, and Spain? 

I will always be grateful to Peter Yi, as he offered me the opportunity to do all that and so much more. Interestingly, we both had a certain character and often clashed. He, being Korean American, and I, being French and very opinionated, I guess he saw me as arrogant and annoying. 😅😅😅

And yet, he appreciated the job I was doing for him and saw added value in me. And although he told me every day that he would fire me, he kept me by his side and under his wing for five years. It was more like one of those love-hate relationships between employer and employee, and it always ended with sharing some food and a glass of wine and laughing with the rest of the team at the back of the store. 😉👍🍷    

In April 2003, we took our first trip together as a team to Bordeaux. Every day, we had a full schedule visiting properties in various appellations. For Pessac-Leognan, aside from Châteaux such as Haut-Brion, Pape Clément, Carbonnieux, Smith-Haut-Lafitte, and Domaine de Chevalier, I had also arranged a visit to Château Haut-Bailly. 

It was a beautiful day. We were driving around Pessac-Leognan after visiting a few other Châteaux in the area when we finally arrived at Château Haut-Bailly. 

We were greeted by Véronique Sanders and Robert G. Wilmers, who were having a conversation near the Chateau entrance. Véronique showed us around the property and the cellar before guiding us into a small room by the cellar to taste the wines, the Grand Vin "Chateau Haut-Bailly" and the 2nd wine "La Parde de Haut-Bailly."    

While tasting the wines, we asked her a few questions about the differences and transition between her family and Bob Wilmers, who now owned the estate. She told us she was heartbroken at first when her grandfather decided to sell the property. Yet, she was also very excited and pleased, as the purchase had brought about changes, new perspectives, and improved practices in vineyard and cellar management, along with all the benefits that came with them. It was a change for the better.  

Appointed as CEO a few years earlier, both the estate and Véronique were in capable hands, looking toward a bright future. It's never easy to work with new owners when it was once your family property. Still, Bob was dedicated and passionate, and by keeping Véronique on his team, he preserved part of the family history and legacy.       

We were tasting "barrel samples" of the 2002 vintage, a difficult vintage often referred to as "classic" or "traditional," as they say in Bordeaux. In fact, it was definitely not one of the best. The wines we tasted so far were lean and often showed underripeness, high acidity, and green, astringent tannins. Although some good wines were made in the Médoc, most of the wines from Pessac-Léognan, and especially the Merlot-based wines of the Right Bank, showed less body, less substance, and more greenness.     

That said, I was surprised by the fleshiness and juiciness of the 2002 Haut-Bailly wines we were tasting, especially considering the high percentage of Merlot in the blend (35%) of the Grand Vin. 

Were the barrel samples selected for the "En Primeur" based on their quality rather than being truly representative of the vintage? (as it was common practice back then, but then again, there's nothing wrong with showing the best samples when presenting your wine to buyers from around the world to ensure sales during the "En Primeur" tasting...) 

Or was it because we were tasting them at the property, which usually imparts or even influences your judgment on the true quality of the wine? (difficult to criticize a wine when in the presence of the owner or the winemaker...)

I couldn't say... However, these were good compared to many of the other wines we tasted during that trip. In the end, it made that visit to Haut-Bailly even more memorable. And we ended up buying quite a few cases "En Primeur".   

In the following years, we visited Haut-Bailly several times during the En Primeur, always with the same enthusiasm. We were consistently welcomed by Veronique or Gabriel Vialard. We truly witnessed the wines and the estate improve from one year to the next.  

In 2007, after five great years where I learned much more than I expected, I left PJWine.com and Peter Yi to work for a smaller store in Brooklyn Heights called "Heights Chateau" to slow down the pace and have more time for my family, especially since my son was only one year old and I wanted to spend more time with him. 

Since my last visit to Haut-Bailly in the mid-2000s, I haven't had the chance to return there for various reasons. However, over the years, I was able to continue witnessing the evolution of Haut-Bailly through the "Union des Grands Crus" (UGCB) tastings.  

In 2011, I moved to Hong Kong, where I continued sourcing, buying, tasting, and serving Haut-Bailly, as it became a staple of my selections over time. I also continue to taste it every year at the UGCB tastings.  

In 2012, Robert G. Wilmers acquired the neighboring property, Chateau Le Pape, also located within the Pessac-Leognan appellation.  

In July 2017, an ambitious project for a new cellar, designed by architect Daniel Romeo, was presented to Bob Wilmers, who approved it immediately. Unfortunately, Bob passed away in December of that same year, and his son, Chris, inherited the property. The project commenced in 2018 and was completed within two years (by the end of 2020).   

In 2021, the new cellar was inaugurated. A state-of-the-art facility that blends seamlessly with the surrounding landscape. It features a curved, streamlined design with a suspended garden and has received excellent HQE certification for its environmental sustainability. The cellar utilizes high-precision technical equipment and is designed to adapt to climate change, allowing for more precise and elegant winemaking. It marked a new era, enabling them to make even better wines than before. 

In 2022, the vineyards expanded in size following the merger of the vines from Château Le Pape into Château Haut-Bailly, making 2021 the last vintage produced under the Château Le Pape label.  

Today, Chris Wilmers and Veronique Sanders continue to focus on making the finest wine possible at Chateau Haut-Bailly, which is regarded as one of the best in its appellation and in Bordeaux overall.  

Chateau Haut-Bailly Pessac-Leognan Bordeaux 2010

A blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc, Haut-Bailly 2010 remains vibrant and lively even after 15 years, and is likely to continue doing so for many more years to come. The 2010 vintage in Bordeaux was a promise of quality and concentration, thanks to July, which was hot and sunny, resulting in water stress that halted plant growth and led to better concentration and ripeness in smaller grapes. The contrasting cool night brought balance and freshness. Attentive winemaking, including precise harvesting and gentle extraction with controlled fermentation temperatures (around 26°C to prevent high alcohol content), was key to producing an exceptional wine.  

The resulting wine is quite dense, rich, and even powerful, with good ageing potential still remaining. Beyond its dark, opaque color, it offers enticing notes of dark fruit and blackberry, mingling with secondary and tertiary aromas. The palate is condensed and textured, with a complex structure, enhanced by enough acidity to keep it fresh and balanced. The finish is long, generous, and earthy. What a wine!  

I was hesitant to decant it that night for that dinner, but I should have as it would have undoubtedly benefited from it. Fortunately, I opened it more than an hour before serving it. 

My advice: buy a few bottles, drink one now to taste it, and keep the others in your cellar for a while, if you have the patience to do so. 😄👍🍷 

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: "R" de Rieussec Bordeaux 2020 or how I changed my "à priori" about this wine.

 

"R" de Rieussec Bordeaux 2020 or 

How I changed my "à priori" about this wine.

About 4 years ago, I bought a few cases of this wine for a private party, without expecting much of it. The host was looking for a quaffable white Bordeaux, and the supplier I was buying champagne and red wines from, which were also going to be served at the party, only had a choice of three Bordeaux white wines in sufficient quantities. So, there was not much choice.

The organizing team and I held a tasting lunch about a month before the party with three different whites, and "R" was the one that was chosen. It was good, but not as satisfying as I had hoped. 

Also, 2020 wasn't a particularly good vintage for white Bordeaux, definitely not as strong as 2019 or 2021, for example. Even the average critic scores on Wine-Searcher only reached 87/100, which is relatively low, especially for a wine priced around 25 Euros. 

I had so much "à priori" about this wine that I even wanted to contact another supplier to make a last-minute choice. Still, I was advised not to, as it was easier to order all the necessary wines from one supplier, given the good discount that would be hard to match.     

Although I have nothing against Rieussec, I have always been fond of their Sauternes. When it comes to Bordeaux white, "R" de Rieussec is definitely not the first to come to mind. Although it was selected, my expectations for guest satisfaction were pretty low. This made me uneasy when we served it, since I like to create a "wow" factor with all the wines I serve.

Among a crowd of over 100 people, this white was the least consumed and, obviously, the least appreciated of the wines served that night.

I'm usually very critical of my choices, and with decades of experience, I rarely make mistakes. Still, I was disappointed to have made such a rookie mistake. As a Bordeaux native with thirty years of experience selling Bordeaux wines, I know I could have made a better choice.   

After the party, I put the leftover wine aside in a corner of the cellar, about 30 bottles, promising not to serve it and even forget about it until recently. 

Not knowing how it tasted after nearly 4 years and thinking it probably had lost all its freshness, I brought a bottle to a recent event and asked my colleagues to taste it with me to see if it had changed and to check whether its quality was still good enough to drink or if it was better to give it to our chef to cook with.

"R" de Rieussec Bordeaux Blanc 2020

 

"R" de Rieussec is a dry white wine made by Château Rieussec, the renowned Sauternes estate better known for its sweet wines. The wine was introduced after Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) purchased the estate in 1984 as part of a broader effort to highlight the estate's potential. It also helped improve vineyard selection and more careful sorting, as it is produced from young vines and certain plots not used for the Grand Vin. The 1997 vintage is significant because it marks the transition to the current winemaking method, which involves complete vinification in barrels to add more texture, structure, and complexity to the wine. 

Although both wines usually come from a blend of Sauvignon Blanc (with citrus, herbaceous notes, and acidity), Semillon (the backbone of most Sauternes, adding body and aromas of apricot and beeswax), and Muscadelle (for aromatic complexity), the blend of "R" generally has a higher percentage of Sauvignon Blanc compared to Sauternes.   

The 2020 vintage is a blend of approximately 57% Sauvignon Blanc and 53% Sémillon. In the glass, it displayed a pale gold color with green reflections. To my surprise, the nose was quite intense and more complex than I remembered. It offered enticing aromas of citrus, apricot, and yellow stone fruits, with hints of exotic fruits mingling with notes of butter and minerals. The palate was surprisingly coating, rich, ample yet still lively (not too flabby as I thought it would), with more citrus, apricot, beeswax, and buttery notes. The finish also seemed longer than I remembered. It could have used a bit more acidity to balance it, but it still maintained some freshness. 

I left the bottle for my colleagues, who really appreciated it and even asked for more; however, I had only brought one bottle to taste. It made me reconsider not serving it again. In fact, I might use it at one of our next events. 

I was pleasantly surprised, as memories of when I last tasted it four years ago had led me to expect it would have worsened. Yet, I was wrong, and revisiting it changed my "à priori" opinion about this wine. It had nicely evolved, and although it is not the most exciting white Bordeaux, it remains a very quaffable choice, which is what was required in the first place. 

That is the beauty of wine: it is a living being that constantly evolves over time, changing its potential, taste, flavors, and profile depending on its environment and storage conditions. Therefore, one should never assume or approach wine with "a priori" thinking (like I did), and should always taste a wine as if it were the first time, because you never know— it might have evolved and improved.       

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Sympathetic Trio

Sympathetic trio

Bruno Paillard N. P. U. (Nec Plus Ultra) Brut 2008

This exclusive champagne, from the exceptional 2008 vintage, is a blend of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir, sourced from Grand Cru vineyards. Beyond its light golden color, it possesses fine bubbles and boasts complex aromas of stone fruits and candied orange peel. The palate is soft, gentle, generous, and ample, coating the mouth nicely with a great texture and concentration, finishing with a long, chalky aftertaste. Loved it!

Jean-Claude Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Boudriotte" 2018

When it comes to white Burgundy and Chassagne, Ramonet is definitely one of my favorite producers. I was really pleased and surprised by how fresh this "Boudriotte" 2018 was. The robe has a pale golden color with slightly green reflections. The nose is fresh, with enticing notes of pear and citrus rind, mingling with toasted bread and mineral notes. The palate mirrors the nose with elegance, refined texture, excellent structure, balance, vibrancy, and focus, culminating in a lingering mineral finish. Superb!

Chateau Pavie 1er Grand Cru Classe A Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2016

I had not tried this wine in a long time, and although it was good, it was not as good as I remembered it from previous tastings. Maybe a down phase, but still definitely worth trying!

It was a good thing I opened it about 45 minutes before serving, as the nose was so timid and closed at opening; it definitely needed decanting.

A Blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc, hailed from the excellent 2016 vintage, it combines freshness, elegance, and complexity in a light way. The robe is dark red, with garnet reflections. The nose expresses aromas of ripe red berries, cherry, and red currant, with floral, pepper, and cinnamon nuances. After the subtle attack, the palate is surprisingly fresh and zesty, rather than fleshy and concentrated, yet balanced and well-structured, with integrated tannins. Although I liked it, I would have loved for it to be more substantial, with less of the Cabernet Franc’s slight green pepper bitterness. Maybe just a down phase, as it still has the potential to age further and improve with time.  

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Portrait, LeDomduVin & Château Latour Pauillac 2015

Ledomduvin & Château Latour 2015

In my previous post (a few days ago), "Portrait," I mentioned that the pictures were taken on my last day before turning 50. 

Well, here we go again. Tonight is my last day before turning 52 tomorrow. 

A colleague took this picture earlier tonight, just before serving this beautiful wine, Chateau Latour 2015, for a private dinner. The wine was succulent! 😋👍🍷🍷🍷

Although this particular decanter may convey a certain elegance, one cannot help but notice and even laugh at its phallic form. That was the only style available in the restaurant. It is a question of taste, and I'm not judging anything or anyone, but I must admit that the vision of such a decanter always sketches a smile on my face.  😉😁👍🍷 

Château Latour Pauillac 2015

Château Latour needs no introduction. It is one of the most outstanding wines from Pauillac and Bordeaux and is among the largest, with 96.5 hectares of vines. This includes "The Enclos," the 47-hectare walled vineyard surrounding the Chateau that was converted entirely to organic farming with the 2015 vintage, and roughly 50 hectares outside of "The Enclos."     

What makes it great is that the Grand Vin of Chateau Latour is made exclusively from “Vieilles Vignes, "which are, on average, 60 years old, from the best parcels of "The Enclos."  

The Enclos's core terroir consistently delivers the depth, elegance, and concentration expected from the Grand Vin. Here, the Cabernet Sauvignon, which makes up over 90% of the blend, reaches its best expression in terms of color, richness, and freshness. Chateau Latour's Grand Vin requires time and rewards those who have the patience to wait a decade or more to fully enjoy its potential.  

In exceptional vintages, the strength and vibrancy of Château Latour's wines allow them to develop effortlessly over several decades. The bouquet and impressions during tasting gradually evolve, becoming more complex until they peak, after which the tannins soften and the wine slowly tames down. Beyond the enjoyment of drinking them, these wines evoke powerful emotions and create unforgettable moments. This perfectly describes my experience with this magnificent 2015 vintage. 

Bought a few years ago from sound provenance and kept at an ideal temperature and humidity level in a Eurocave, the bottle was pristine, and the cork was in perfect condition. Due to its youth and as it was a bit shy on the nose, I decanted it (roughly 45 minutes before serving). I retasted it before serving it, and it had opened up nicely. 

Spawned from an exceptional vintage, Chateau Latour 2015 is a blend of roughly 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2.6% Merlot, and less than 1% Petit Verdot. In the glass, the wine displayed a dark garnet color. On the nose, after 45 minutes decanting, its shyness at opening gave way to warmer and complex aromas of dark fruits like blackberries and plums mingling with mocha, graphite, and floral notes. The palate showed richness, complexity, and power in a soft velvet glove way, with excellent balance and freshness. Its concentration expanded nicely from the attack to the lingering finish, coating the mouth with ripe dark fruits, woody, earthy, spicy notes, and mineral, umami, and salty nuances. The tannins were present yet perfectly integrated. What a magnificent wine! 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

Full post with tasting notes on my blog at www.ledomduvin.com (link in bio) 

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LeDomduVin: Hofkellerei des Fürsten von Liechtenstein Österreichischer Sekt F. L. Premier Brut 2021 Austria

Hofkellerei des Fürsten von Liechtenstein Österreichischer Sekt 

F. L. Premier Brut 2021 Austria

A blend of Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, this lovely sparkling wine is a real quaffer. In the glass, it displays a pale yellow color with green and silver nuances and thin columns of fast bubbles. The nose is fresh and dry, with white fruits and green apple aromas mingling with floral, mineral, and herb notes. The palate is relatively light and dry, lively and zesty, with white fruits and lime flavors, leading to a touch of iodine in the finish. Nicely done.

Although a bit light (for my palate, which is more accustomed to richer and more complex Champagnes), its friendly and easy-going demeanor compensates for its lack of substance. It is a good afternoon sparkling wine to enjoy with light appetizers.

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Domaine Leflaive and Domaines Leflaive Macon-Verzé Burgundy 2021

Domaine Leflaive & 

Domaines Leflaive Macon-Verzé Burgundy 2021

Since the inception of the French departmental system in 1790, Burgundy has been referred to as the geographic area comprising the four departments of Yonne, Côte-d'Or, Nièvre, and Saône-et-Loire (see map above created with https://www.mapchart.net/ and edited by and for ©Ledomduvin 2025).

However, the wine region called Burgundy is slightly different. Wines are produced in the Yonne department for Chablis (Auxerrois) and along a roughly 200 km corridor (following the highway A6) crossing three departments (from North to South): Côte-d'Or, Saône-et-Loire, and Rhône.

Yet, most Burgundy maps mainly show the regions of Côte-d'Or and Saône-et-Loire, reducing the Burgundy stretch to only about 125 km, starting south of Dijon and ending south of Macon (often excluding Beaujolais and Chablis).    

Although the Chablis and Beaujolais regions are also part of Burgundy, respectively located in the Yonne and Rhône departments, they are often left off most Burgundy maps, mostly appearing in the corner or on a separate map entirely (see above - Map of Burgundy - Courtesy of www.bourgogne-wines.com).   

 

Within each of these departments, the wine areas are divided into several regions, subdivided into several appellation levels (based on quality and rank), and arranged in a pyramid, starting with the most generic, AOC regional, at the bottom and ascending to AOC communes/villages or appellations, AOC 1er Cru and AOC Grand Cru (see the pyramid above).

I created the "BURGUNDY AOC Hierarchy Table with Leading APPELLATIONS" above because I could not find a table that included the main Burgundy AOC. Numbers may differ depending on the sources. (*)   

However, enough is said about Burgundy's many AOCs; let's focus on the one of interest for today's post: Puligny-Montrachet. 

Map of Puligny-Montrachet - Courtesy of www.bourgogne-wines.com

Located in the Cote d'Or department, Puligny-Montrachet is a small village at the heart of the Côte de Beaune, between Meursault to the north and Chassagne-Montrachet to the south. Domaine Leflaive is the jewel of the appellation, renowned for producing some of the finest whites of Burgundy.

The village of Puligny-Montrachet produces wines under 3 levels of AOC:

- Village (both white and red, even if the red only accounts for less than 1% of the total production),

- Premier Cru (white only)

- Grand Cru (white only)

NB: Other reds from defined areas within the boundaries of Puligny-Montrachet are usually sold under the appellation "Côte de Beaune Villages."

Puligny-Montrachet possesses 17 climats classified as "Premier Cru" and shares 2 "Grand Cru" with Chassagne-Montrachet.

17 Premier Cru

Champ Canet, Champ Gain, Clavaillon, Clos de la Garenne, Clos de la Mouchère, Hameau de Blagny, La Garenne, La Truffière, Le Cailleret, Les Chalumaux, Les Combettes, Les Demoiselles, Les Folatières, Les Perrières, Les Pucelles, Les Referts and Sous le Puits

4 Grands Crus

Montrachet and Bâtard-Montrachet (shared with Chassagne-Montrachet)

Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet and Chevalier-Montrachet (situated entirely within Puligny-Montrachet)

Some may also think of a fifth one, Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet, but it is located entirely within Chassagne-Montrachet.

Domaine Leflaive

The Leflaive family's roots date back to 1717 when Claude Leflaive settled in Puligny-Montrachet. The following generations worked as Tonneliers (Cooper) and owned several hectares of vines whose grapes were sold. Joseph Leflaive (1870-1953) created the Domaine, and his son Vincent Leflaive further developed it.

Vincent's daughter, Anne-Claude Leflaive, a winemaker and pioneer in biodynamic viticulture, succeeded her father in 1990 and began overseeing Domaine Leflaive's day-to-day operations. Under her leadership, the Domaine underwent a renaissance, drastically improving the quality of the wines.

After Anne-Claude Leflaive's untimely death in April 2015, the estate is now managed by Brice de la Morandiere, Anne-Claude's nephew and Joseph's great-grandson. Winemaking is under the control of Eric Remy.

The Domaine is a leading producer of biodynamic practices and the flagship of the appellation. It covers approximately 24 hectares in Puligny-Montrachet and features Grands Crus and Premiers Crus, all dedicated to a single varietal: Chardonnay.

Domaine Leflaive produces wines at all AOC levels: 

AOC Grand Cru

• Montrachet, 0.0821 hectares (0.203 acres)
• Chevalier-Montrachet, 1.99 hectares (4.9 acres)
• Bâtard-Montrachet, 1.91 hectares (4.7 acres)
• Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, 1.15 hectares (2.8 acres)

AOC Premier Cru

• Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles, Folatières, Les Combettes, Le Clavoillon
• Meursault sous le Dos d'Âne

AOC Village wine

• Puligny-Montrachet, 7 climats totalling 4.64 hectares (11.5 acres)

AOC Regional wine

• Bourgogne blanc from 2 parcels totalling 3.24 hectares (8.0 acres)

Domaine Leflaive ramifications

To clarify, Domaine Leflaive and Olivier Leflaive's négociant business are completely separate entities. 

As for "Domaines Leflaive" (with an "s" at the end of Domaine), it represents an extension of Domaine Leflaive in the Mâconnais region to explore the family's extensive vineyard holdings (Mâcon-Verzé, Pouilly-Fuissé, etc...). These holdings are either owned or leased long-term through the family's close relationships with vineyard owners in the area. 

The vineyards are certified organic and biodynamic, and the family directly handles all work in the vineyards, the harvest, and the vinification of the wines in the Domaine's cellar in Puligny-Montrachet. 

This Mâcon-Verzé is one of these wines and undeniably one of the best values of their portfolio.  

Domaines Leflaive Macon-Verzé Burgundy 2021

Mineral, fresh, zesty, focused, subtle, elegant, gentle, with lemon and stonefruit aromas mingling with butter, vanilla, and toasted nuances, and that utterly satisfying "glycerine" sensation coating the palate, so characteristic of Domaine Leflaive wines, especially within their Puligny-Montrachet(s), leading to the long, fresh and mineral finish. What a delicious little wine with a lively energy! Love it!

I could drink a lot of this wine! 😋😋😋😋

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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(*) Numbers may differ depending on the sources. The table above only includes the main regions and villages, as it would be impossible to fit every single one of the 785 AOCs (appellations) of Burgundy into a single table. For example, there are 44 AOC villages and a staggering 662 climats classified as Premiers Crus in Burgundy. Some Regional Appellations and regional denominations have also been omitted due to a lack of space (e.g., Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise, Bourgogne Côte du Couchois, Bourgogne white and red, Bourgogne Aligoté, Bourgogne Passe-tout-grains, and Côteaux Bourguignons, Crémant de Bourgogne, etc.). Numbers courtesy of https://www.bourgogne-wines.com

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