Showing posts with label #white. Show all posts
Showing posts with label #white. Show all posts

Monday, June 23, 2025

LeDomduVin: "R" de Rieussec Bordeaux 2020 or how I changed my "à priori" about this wine.

 



"R" de Rieussec Bordeaux 2020 or 

How I changed my "à priori" about this wine.



About 4 years ago, I bought a few cases of this wine for a private party, without expecting much of it. The host was looking for a quaffable white Bordeaux, and the supplier I was buying champagne and red wines from, which were also going to be served at the party, only had a choice of three Bordeaux white wines in sufficient quantities. So, there was not much choice.

The organizing team and I held a tasting lunch about a month before the party with three different whites, and "R" was the one that was chosen. It was good, but not as satisfying as I had hoped. 

Also, 2020 wasn't a particularly good vintage for white Bordeaux, definitely not as strong as 2019 or 2021, for example. Even the average critic scores on Wine-Searcher only reached 87/100, which is relatively low, especially for a wine priced around 25 Euros. 

I had so much "à priori" about this wine that I even wanted to contact another supplier to make a last-minute choice. Still, I was advised not to, as it was easier to order all the necessary wines from one supplier, given the good discount that would be hard to match.     

Although I have nothing against Rieussec, I have always been fond of their Sauternes. When it comes to Bordeaux white, "R" de Rieussec is definitely not the first to come to mind. Although it was selected, my expectations for guest satisfaction were pretty low. This made me uneasy when we served it, since I like to create a "wow" factor with all the wines I serve.

Among a crowd of over 100 people, this white was the least consumed and, obviously, the least appreciated of the wines served that night.

I'm usually very critical of my choices, and with decades of experience, I rarely make mistakes. Still, I was disappointed to have made such a rookie mistake. As a Bordeaux native with thirty years of experience selling Bordeaux wines, I know I could have made a better choice.   

After the party, I put the leftover wine aside in a corner of the cellar, about 30 bottles, promising not to serve it and even forget about it until recently. 

Not knowing how it tasted after nearly 4 years and thinking it probably had lost all its freshness, I brought a bottle to a recent event and asked my colleagues to taste it with me to see if it had changed and to check whether its quality was still good enough to drink or if it was better to give it to our chef to cook with.






"R" de Rieussec Bordeaux Blanc 2020

 
"R" de Rieussec is a dry white wine made by Château Rieussec, the renowned Sauternes estate better known for its sweet wines. The wine was introduced after Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) purchased the estate in 1984 as part of a broader effort to highlight the estate's potential. It also helped improve vineyard selection and more careful sorting, as it is produced from young vines and certain plots not used for the Grand Vin. The 1997 vintage is significant because it marks the transition to the current winemaking method, which involves complete vinification in barrels to add more texture, structure, and complexity to the wine. 

Although both wines usually come from a blend of Sauvignon Blanc (with citrus, herbaceous notes, and acidity), Semillon (the backbone of most Sauternes, adding body and aromas of apricot and beeswax), and Muscadelle (for aromatic complexity), the blend of "R" generally has a higher percentage of Sauvignon Blanc compared to Sauternes.   

The 2020 vintage is a blend of approximately 57% Sauvignon Blanc and 53% Sémillon. In the glass, it displayed a pale gold color with green reflections. To my surprise, the nose was quite intense and more complex than I remembered. It offered enticing aromas of citrus, apricot, and yellow stone fruits, with hints of exotic fruits mingling with notes of butter and minerals. The palate was surprisingly coating, rich, ample yet still lively (not too flabby as I thought it would), with more citrus, apricot, beeswax, and buttery notes. The finish also seemed longer than I remembered. It could have used a bit more acidity to balance it, but it still maintained some freshness. 


I left the bottle for my colleagues, who really appreciated it and even asked for more; however, I had only brought one bottle to taste. It made me reconsider not serving it again. In fact, I might use it at one of our next events. 

I was pleasantly surprised, as memories of when I last tasted it four years ago had led me to expect it would have worsened. Yet, I was wrong, and revisiting it changed my "à priori" opinion about this wine. It had nicely evolved, and although it is not the most exciting white Bordeaux, it remains a very quaffable choice, which is what was required in the first place. 

That is the beauty of wine: it is a living being that constantly evolves over time, changing its potential, taste, flavors, and profile depending on its environment and storage conditions. Therefore, one should never assume or approach wine with "a priori" thinking (like I did), and should always taste a wine as if it were the first time, because you never know— it might have evolved and improved.       


Cheers! Santé!

Dom

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #wine #vin #vino #wein @rieussec #rieussec #bordeaux #bordeauxwhite #white #tastingnotes #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife #ilovemyjob #lovewine



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Tuesday, December 5, 2023

LeDomduVin: Vie di Romans “Dessimis” Pinot Grigio 2021





Vie di Romans “Dessimis” Pinot Grigio 2021



This great wine is definitely different from your usual Pinot Grigio. As we say in France, it is a “vin de soif” (a wine of thirst). 

The type of wine that is so agreeable, easy to drink, and so good that the first sip immediately calls for the next one, the first glass calls the second one, and before you know it, you realize one bottle won’t be enough. 

Aside from being a sommelier and a wine buyer, my dream has always been to have (one day) a small wine boutique to sell only the wine (and food) I loved the most over my 32-year career in the wine business. 

The ones that have been the most consistent, reliable, and pleasurable. Recurrently producing stunning wines year in and year out. And I can proudly say that “Vie di Romans” would be one of those. 

I have been buying, selling, opening, tasting, serving, and drinking “Vie de Romans” for over 20 years. It is one of these “super” reliable producers that crafts wines you sure won’t disappoint wherever you bring them. 

Aside from being delicious, what makes this Pinot Grigio so particular is its attractive and intriguing light straw color with copper nuances conferred by more extended skin contact. 

Resulting from grapes coming from a single vineyard, fermented between 25 - 38 days, with no malolactic, then matured for 9 months on the lees, followed by natural clarification in stainless steel, and aged for 8 months prior to release, this is one of Vie de Romans top white wines. 

Dessimis Pinot Grigio 2021 offers a luscious, ample, round, creamy texture, lots of glycerin, vibrancy, and vivacity in a soft, delicate, generous, and friendly manner, with ripe stone fruit flavors combined with floral, mineral and nutty nuances. Incredibly delicious and easy to drink. 

Beautifully crafted happiness in a bottle! 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom 

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin @viediromans #viediromans #wine #vin #vino #wein #pinotgrigio #italy #white #notyourusualwine #tastingnotes #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife #ilovemyjob




Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2023, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).

Friday, June 17, 2011

LeDomduVin: 2007 Thierry Tissot Roussette du Bugey Mataret (Altesse) Savoie France





2007 Thierry Tissot Roussette du Bugey Mataret (Altesse) Savoie France




I am very fond of Savoie and Bugey's wines. I love their minerality and texture. Their taste is always versatile, focused, delightful, and easy to drink.


Before getting into the wine of the day, let me introduce you to the Savoie and Bugey vineyards.



Bugey Savoie Wine Map courtesy of Vineyards.com



As you can see on the map above, the vineyards of Savoie and Bugey are primarily located south of Geneva, scattered across three French departments bordering Switzerland.  

The wines of Savoie are made in both the departments of Savoie and Haute-Savoie, to the east of the Rhone River (and west of the Isere River to the South), while the wines from Bugey are made in the department of Ain.  

Roussette de Savoie is an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) for white wine. The AOC covers much of the Western part of the Savoie AOC for wines made entirely or mainly from the regional grape variety called "Altesse" (also known as Roussette). 

Typically, wines designated with the generic "Roussette de Savoie" AOC (rather than with some specific Cru) are blended with up to 50% Chardonnay, while those explicitly marked as “Altesse” are made exclusively from this grape. 

Savoie white wines show best in their youth, yet their high acidity also gives them the potential to age. These white wines are typically crisp and dry, displaying aromas of violets and mountain herbs, complemented by flavors of minerals, bergamot, honey, and hazelnut.

Within the "Roussette de Savoie" AOC, the geographical designation mentioned via the name of the "Village" or “Cru” written on the label includes Frangy, Marestel, Monterminod, and Monthoux. Wines bearing these "Cru" designations are made exclusively from Altesse (see map above). 






The best vineyards are planted on Quaternary alluvial fans (see picture above: Alluvial Fan - Image Courtesy of ScienceDirect.com) along the edges of the Massifs of Bauges and Borne.



Domaine Thierry Tissot



Thierry Tissot is a great producer who deserves more recognition for his wines. They are pure and delightful. I invite you to discover them whenever you have the chance.

After a previous life as an "itinerant winemaker," passing through Italy, Saint-Émilion, Burgundy, and Jongieux, just to name a few, Thierry Tissot planted his high-altitude vines on a hillside named Mataret in 2001, the year he settled in Bugey. 

In the Bugey region in the Ain département of France, wines were previously produced under the two VDQS designations "Bugey" and "Roussette du Bugey". Yet, on May 28, 2009, the "INAO" elevated  "Bugey" and "Roussette du Bugey" to Appellation d'Origine contrôlée (AOC) status.

Most Bugey wines are white, made from the aromatic white variety "Altesse", locally called "Roussette". Yet rosé, red, and sparkling wines are also produced in Bugey. 

The vineyards of the two Bugey appellations cover around 500 hectares (1,200 acres) and are spread over 67 communes in the department of Ain (see map above).


Thierry Tissot is one of the top producers of Bugey. He is located at Vaux-en-Bugey, a quaint little village enclaved between two hills in the foothills of the Alps about 52 kilometers northeast of Lyon and roughly 40 kilometers southeast of Bourg-en-Bresse.

A family property for five generations, this 5-hectare Domaine produces a few other wines made from other grape varieties, such as Jacquere, Chardonnay, Roussette, Mondeuse, and Gamay, under the following appellations:
  • Chardonnay du Bugey 
  • Roussette du Bugey "Coteaux de Mataret" 
  • Rosé du Bugey 
  • Gamay du Bugey 
  • Mondeuse du Bugey "Coteaux de Mataret"
  • Bugey Brut Blanc 
  • Bugey Brut Rosé

Thierry took over the family domaine in 2001, soon after receiving his Diploma as an Oenologist.

Today's wine is his Rousette du Bugey "Mataret." Mataret consists of three hectares of calcareous clay soils with blue marl and veins of shale, facing southwest at an elevation of 350 meters.

The local elders used to talk about the slopes of "Mataret," saying that before the chestnut trees grew, the land produced legendary wines. 

It didn't take long for Thierry to clear 3 hectares of the chestnut forest on the steep slope and plant 18000 vines of Roussette and Mondeuse. These vines are still young, but they already express the complexity of the blue marl contained in the soil.

A local from many generations and a young father, entrepreneur, and explorer, faithful and passionate, Thierry crafts his wines with love, care, and attention. He is a perfectionist, attached to details. Both wines under the name "Mataret" are produced from low-yielding vines and grown pretty much organically.

  • Roussette du Bugey "Mataret" is complex, with great minerality and ripe yellow fruit flavors, very good structure and texture and evident ageing potential (even for a white). 
  • Mondeuse du Bugey "Mataret" is bright, crisp, and mineral, with racy red berry flavors. The grapes are fully destemmed and undergo semi-carbonic maceration to maximize the fruit expression.

Both resulting wines are fine examples of what Bugey has to offer. Thierry Tissot is a producer to keep an eye on, as he is definitely an up-and-coming young and talented winemaker.






2007 Thierry Tissot Roussette du Bugey Mataret (Altesse) Savoie France

Suggested retail price $16-$19
Imported/distributed by Wineberry in NYC

Made from 100% Roussette, also called “Altesse” the most predominant indigenous white grape variety of Savoie, this wine is of great character and flavor, with loads of minerality. Behind its light yellow-greenish color, the nose boasts aromas of slightly toasted hazelnut and dried fruit with blossom, floral hints. The palate of this mountainous wine unfolds with lemon zest and yellow fruit flavors intermingled with notes of sea brine, minerals, and hay. The finish is very long and has touches of grapefruit, sherry, and more minerality. Versatile, crisp, coating, complex yet easy going, it will pair greatly with cheeses, fondue, pâté, and ham.

Cheers! Santé!

Enjoy!,

LeDomduVin

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique, and Organic wines, spirits, and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also, follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high-quality, natural components and craftsmanship.



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Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2011, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).