2009 Domaine Chamonard Morgon "Le Clos de Lys" Cru Beaujolais Burgundy France

Wow! It has been a very hot lately; somehow too hot for the season in my opinion, which will surely provoke massive drought for the next 4-5 months, if temperatures continue to rise like that. It is already happening in western Europe and certain US states.

New Yorkers, you know what it means, everybody is going to crank up all available air-conditioner; therefore the town is going to humid because of the dripping in the street and the evaporation in the air, but also suffocating and polluted because of the rising temperatures, the hot and humid air rejected by the air conditioners and the gas from all vehicles, plus the smell from the trash in the street: i.e. “Welcome to the summer in New York city!”

However, let’s think positive and appreciate the other things the Big Apple has to offer: loads of tourist, concerts in the park, BBQ in the garden or on the roof top, and plenty more, but more importantly cold drink like beers, white and rose wines but also chillable, friendly and versatile reds like Beaujolais.  

Domaine Joseph Chamonard  

Having lived and worked amongst the “superstars” of Beaujolais, most of them his friends and neighbors, Joseph Chamonard had created a wonderful environment for his wines in Morgon, crafting traditional, earthy and hearty wines with great skills and attention. He practiced biodynamic/organic farming at some of its earliest mentions and only followed natural processes in the cellar. His “Clos de Lys” benefited for the unique community that shared and assisted each other for the forward progress of wine itself, if not for Gamay as a recognized noble varietal.

On the hill of Morgon, his vines stayed healthy without chemical or fertilized assistance and rested in living soils. They remain that way today, alongside the packed earth and starved vines of the neighbor’s only steps away.

Sadly, Joseph passed away in 1990, leaving his daughter Geneviève (and husband, Jean-Claude Chanudet) to carry on with the production and maintain the health of his 4-hectare parcels. Both have carried this mission through with each successive vintage since then, allowing for his name and his wines to perdure to these days.

There are no chemical treatments, in or out of the vineyards. Harvest is done by hand, late in the season to obtain full natural ripeness and complexity. Only natural yeasts are used to start fermentations. And little is done along the process other than patient guidance to its natural end. It is wine made the traditional way with respect to nature.   As some of the others of his era have recently passed on as well (Marcel Lapierre in 2010), there is a sense that the pattern set here in Beaujolais will be altered. With so much natural beauty remaining though, it will take more than a gang of four to do so. Afterall, it is now almost tradition. 

2009 Domaine Chamonard Morgon "Le Clos de Lys" Cru Beaujolais Burgundy France 

Suggested retail price $22-$25

Imported / Distributed by Savio Soares in NYC

Three decades ago, Joseph Chamonard was a recognized Beaujolais producer part of a group of friends, amongst some of the best Beaujolais’ producers, including late Marcel Lapierre, Guy Breton, Jean-Paul Thévenet, Jean Foillard, and their mentor late Jules Chauvet. Unfortunately, Joseph Chamonard died in 1990. His daughter Geneviève, helped by her husband Jean-Claude Chanudet, continued making supple and fruit forward Beaujolais wine in the same old traditional way, walking in the steps of her father with combined Biodynamic-organic methods and respect for the natural environment. Recently imported by Savio Soares in New York, Chamonard’s wines were barely distributed outside of the local market and were apparently difficult to find even in Paris. Now available in New York, Chamonard’s wines feature on the selection of some of the most established wine boutiques and restaurants, with one of the most expressive Morgon available in the New York market.

The 2009 vintage has become a true classic in Beaujolais, and the 2009 Chamonard Morgon reveals the high quality of the vintage and the ripeness of the fruit topped with an attractive Terroir driven attitude. The nose is very fragrant, with straightforward aromas of light cherry and raspberry, and earthy notes. Light to medium in body, the wine is perfectly balanced between full fruit and lively acidity, with an earthy touch on the finish. Long, robust, a touch rustic yet so structured, ample and complex, this wine possesses the richness characteristic of the village of Morgon wines and great ageing potential. A bit tight just after opening, it needs at least 30 minutes of aeration or even decanting to fully express all its nuances. 

I have really enjoyed the last 3 vintages (2006, 07 and 08) and need to admit that the 2009 vintage is the one that reveals the most fruit, ripeness and length. In my opinion, I just bought more Beaujolais (from diverse producers) from this exceptional vintage and, if I may, I will certainly encourage you to do the same before the vintage runs out. However, if you can’t, it seems that 2010 shouldn’t be so bad either.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Most info partly taken and partially edited from the importer website at http://savioselections.com

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

2009 Christian Venier Cheverny Rouge “Les Hauts de Madon” Loire Valley France

2009 Christian Venier Cheverny Rouge “Les Hauts de Madon” Loire Valley France  

The estate of Christian Venier is located at Candé-sur-Beuvron, a small commune of the Loir-et-Cher departement, in the north of the central eastern part of the Loire Valley, about 14 kilometers southwest of Blois and about 20 kilometers west of Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny, on the southern bank of the Loire River.    

Tending to the vineyards and making wine has been part Christian Venier’s family history for many centuries in this region of the Loire Valley between Blois and Tours. Yet, it wasn’t until 1998 that Christian himself decided to go back to his roots, after buying 14 hectares of old vines from a retired winemaker in the hamlet of Madon, about 3 kilometers north of Candé-sur-Beuvron, where he was born and clean up the old cellar from his father’s home that had been inactive for a couple of decades. Influenced by his cousins Thierry and Jean-Marie Puzelat, he took to the job of non-interventionist, natural biodynamic farming and winemaking.  

Planted on silica and clay based soils mixed with gravels and stones, his various vineyards include pretty much most classic Loire grape varieties: Gamay, Pinot Noir, Menu Pineau, Pineau d’Aunis, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Côt and Cabernet Franc.    

As for his vinification techniques, he pretty much leaves Mother Nature do what she does best, with minimal intervention: very long macerations, using various tanks, fiberglass, stainless steal, unlined cement tank and oak, always in large formats. Nothing is added to the wine and as they are not filtered nor finned, just racked from the lees before being bottled. 

The key factor for the wine of today is the Carbonic Maceration, which is very traditional in Beaujolais and well suited for Gamay grapes, but started to see some adepts and followers in many other French appellations and regions, especially in the Loire Valley.    

Carbonic maceration, at Christian Venier, consists of filling cement vats, usually unlined with resin as it allows for some aeration or air exchange due to the porosity of the cement, thus natural oxygenation with minimal risk of oxidation, with the whole clusters. Once full of the whole clusters, Christian tops off the cement tanks with CO2 gas and then leaves the lid on, partially closed. Basically, like in Beaujolais, the whole grapes are fermented in an anaerobic carbon dioxide rich environment prior to crushing, except that Christian won’t crush them. In clear, Carbonic maceration ferments most of the juice while it is still inside the grape, although grapes at the bottom of the tank are crushed by gravity and undergo conventional fermentation. And that’s about it. Pigeage may be needed to mix and break the cap, but Christian only does it if really necessary, and usually ends-up by doing only one. The wine then ferments naturally and obviously is allowed to ferment dry in cement tank. No barrels are used for any of the reds and as I said earlier no additives, no sulphur, no fining and no filtration, of course.  

2009 Christian Venier Cheverny Rouge “Les Hauts de Madon” Loire Valley France 

Suggested retail price $16-$19 

Imported / distributed by Savio Soares Selections (in NYC) 

Made from 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Gamay handpicked from the vineyard called “Hauts Madon” located near the eponymous village. This wine underwent carbonic maceration with natural yeasts. Unlined cement tanks were used for fermentation and ageing. No oak, no filtration and no SO2 (sulphur) added. 100% Organic.    

2009 Christian Venier Cheverny Rouge “Les Hauts de Madon” presents a fairly deep ruby color. The fragrant nose is fresh and vibrant with red berries aromas mingled with earthy, smoky, herbal, mineral, almost salty notes and green, steamy hints (probably due to the inclusion of the stems during fermentation). The palate is clean, crisp, earthy, and smoky and Terroir driven with great acidity and balance, mixed wild red and dark berries flavors and, here again, hints of green stem and bell pepper. Intriguing, complex and racy, this is a juicy wine of character, not for every palate, but a delight for discriminating taste buds like mine. 

A touch chilled, it will be a great summery red wine to pair with charcuterie, salad, white meats and cheeses.   

Enjoy! 

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and partly edited from the importer website at http://savioselections.com


Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

2009 Domaine "Les Lys Sacrés" Brouilly Beaujolais Bourgogne France

No doubt, 2009 is an excellent vintage across the board in France, but in my opinion more particularly in Beaujolais. It is quite amazing frankly that most, if not all, 2009 Beaujolais that I tasted were ranging from very good to truly fantastic. There must be some bad ones somewhere, but I have yet to taste them. I will write soon about a great one that I loved, but here is one that I really enjoyed too.  

Domaine "Les Lys Sacrés"  

Domaine Les Lys Sacrés is located in the village of Odenas, about 3 kilometers south of Brouilly, in the Beaujolais region, a commune the French "departement" of the Rhône, part of the Rhône-Alpes region.

I know it is a bit confusing to think that all Beaujolais are produced in the Departement of the Rhône, and are not a part of the Rhône valley wines but Burgundy wines; and that most Rhone Valley wines are produced in the departements of "Isere" and "Drome" and not in the "departement" of the Rhône, but in the region of Rhône-Alpes. You may have also notice that certain producers stopped putting the name "Rhône" (for the departement after the village of origin) on their label to avoid the confusion.

However, to go back to our wine of the day, this is a traditional estate, earthy and surely organic,  that do everything the old way, especially the harvest as specified on the label: "Récolte à l'Ancienne" Work in the vineyards is done under "Lutte Raisonnée", which means natural and sustainable methods, adapted to the different vineyards depending on the quality of the vintage, with minimal use of chemicals (pesticides, herbicides, etc..) only when necessary.

2009 Domaine "Les Lys Sacrés" Brouilly Beaujolais Bourgogne France

Suggested retail price $14-$17

Imported / Distributed by Alan Bradley Imports in NYC (with help via Francki Selections)

100% Gamay, 2009 Les Lys Sacrés possesses a light purple-ruby color of medium intensity, with attractive reflects. The fresh and complex nose boasts aromas of cherry, ripe dark fruit, spices and herbs mingled with hints of minerality and smokey notes. Offering the type of flavors, the palate is soft, balanced, well rounded and quite fruit forward due to the ripeness of the vintage, yet it feels summery and crisp due to a good amount of acidity. Overall easy going, friendly and very approcheable. The finish is quite long and juicy with velvety tannins. Somehow thirst quenching I must say. Very nice and versatile, it will pair well with charcuterie, hors d'oeuvres and more complex dishes based with poultry, game and grilled white meat like pork or veal.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

2009 Clos de la Roilette Fleurie Cru Beaujolais Bourgogne France

For those of you who may not know it, notoriously famous for its esoteric, natural wines from artisanal producers crafting beautiful gems and solid consistent flagships in their own respective appellations, importer Louis/Dressner has left Douglas Polaner Selections, and is now distributed through David Bowler wine in New York state. No matter really who is distributing Louis/Dressner wines, as long as we can still buy them, that’s only what really counts for wine buyer like me.

However, talking about wines from Louis/Dressner, I just tasted one of the standards of the Cru Beaujolais: Clos de la Roilette Fleurie. This wine has always been a remarkable example of what Fleurie as to offer. And people who know my discriminating dissecting-like-a-surgeon palate, understand that I love crispy, crunchy wines with juicy fruit, vivid refreshing acidity and integrated yet present tannic structure, which are the essential backbone components of great wines. Well, trust me, I don’t say that for every wine, but I just found all of these needed and indispensable characteristics in the 2009 Clos de la Roilette Fleurie, and I was quite blown away by its gustative qualities.

You see, I talk a lot (didn’t notice?...) and can also write a lot (bored already?...), but when I love a wine, then suddenly no word can be heard from my claymation mouth. Not a sound. I just enjoy and savor the wine till the last drop. If I talk too much about a wine just after tasting it, it is because I dissected it so much that I found too much flaws in it (inharmonious, disjointed, unbalanced, unripe, no acidity, no texture, no structure, hollow middle, short finish, too ripe, too acidic, too thin, too woody, too tannic, bitter, sour, etc…). If I don’t say anything, it is usually because I found harmony of all the elements and components of the wine to my liking, perfectly adapted to my taste and taste buds’ cravings.

When I taste, I need to understand the wine: its origin, the climate of the region, the climate of the vintage, the exposure, the elevation, the type of soil, the way it was made, vineyard management, vinification, and what was the thinking behind the winemaker’s mind and adaptation to the vintage. So I always ask myself some questions when I taste to be able to appropriately judge the wine and comprehend why and how it tastes like it tastes. How was the vintage in that particular region? What is the usual style of the winemaker for this particular estate? Has the climate during ripening season and harvest season really imparted the winemaking and the final taste? Or did the winemaker choose to harvest earlier because it was a very hot year or later because it was a cooler vintage? How long was it aged? In tanks or in barrels? Were the vineyard and cellar managements Organic, Biodynamic, Sustainable, Lutte Raisonnée, Carbon Neutral, Biologic, Natural, or simply adapted with a combination of some or all the above?

It is important not to just taste the wine for what it is, but also for what it represents, the work of the men and women behind it, the region it comes from and more interestingly to be able to retrace its life from the end of the previous harvest, the dormant period of winter, the burgeoning and coming back to life period with the flowering and the emergence of the fruit, the ripening season up until the grapes are harvested and juice is pressed. In order to be truthful, passionate and convincing, get to know the wine that you taste, it will help you a lot when you will have to describe it to your customers or to your family and friends.

For certain person, wine represents only fermented grape juice in a bottle. As a passionate wine lover, wine buyer and wine drinker, moreover grandson of a winemaker, my love for wine goes beyond the label: topping the grape variety (ies) its was made with and the region, each wine encompasses a bit of history often associated with local culinary traditions, complemented by the regional and local topography, climatology, pedology, edaphology; and without mentioning biology, chemistry and mathematics... and the personality of all the people who participated to its elaboration from the vines to the glass.

Think about the fact that each winemaker has one shot each year to succeed, no matter what, to produce the best wine he or her can craft with a bit of help from the combination of mother nature and new technology (not always accessible for all of them). Winemaking is a fragile, often costly and testing difficult concept often counterbalanced by the skills, experience, knowledge, know how, style and personal instinct of the winemaker. Think about all of the above when you next taste a wine, you’ll see you may experience a brand new way to enjoy but also understand what you taste.

However, I get carried away once again, but it's true: it is very easy to open bottles of wine and empty them or condemn them if the wine is bad; yet it is not that easy for winemakers to craft these little gems, which are Happiness in bottle that you gorge on to every time a good occasion presents itself.

Let’s go back to our wine of the day:

2009 Clos de la Roilette Fleurie Cru Beaujolais France

Clos de la Roilette is located in the village of Fleurie, one of the 10 Crus of Beaujolais (from north to south the Beaujolais crus are: Saint-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Brouilly and Côte de Brouilly), about 60 kilometers north of Lyon.

The estate covers about nine hectares of one of the best slopes in the Beaujolais Crus. The “Clos” (literally meaning an enclosed plot of land planted with vines), which has an eastern exposure, borders the Moulin-à-Vent appellation, and produces wines that are beautiful when young and have the capacity to age 5-10 years, depending on the vintage.

In the 20’s, when the Fleurie appellation was first created, the former landowner was infuriated with losing the Moulin-à-Vent appellation under which the “Clos” had previously been classified. He created a label, using a photograph of his racehorse Roilette, and used the name Clos de la Roilette, without mentioning Fleurie. The owner vowed not to sell a drop of his wine on the French market and the production went to Switzerland, Germany and England.

By the mid-1960s, the owner’s heirs had lost interest in the “Clos” and a large portion of the land had gone wild and untended. In 1967, Fernand Coudert bought this poorly maintained estate, and replanted the vineyards. His son Alain joined him in 1984, and has been the winemaker since.

The Couderts say their particular terroir (mainly clay and manganese), and the age of their vines (25 to 33 years-old) account for the richness of their wine. It usually has a deep blackcurrant color with a hint of purple, a restrained nose of crème de cassis, a rich, full mouth with aromas of cassis, black cherries, and a nutty character, and finishes with zesty acidity. This is a wine that ages gracefully and takes on the aromatic character of a Pinot Noir.

With the 1998 vintage, the Couderts introduced a new wine, Cuvée Christal, which is lighter and meant to drink younger. Also, a few vintages ago, they started a selection of old vines cuvée that is partially aged in older oak barrels. They call this Cuvée Tardive, meaning that it needs more aging time and has even greater longevity than the Clos cuvée.

2009 Clos de la Roilette Fleurie Cru de Beaujolais Bourgogne France

Suggested retail price $19-$22
Imported by Louis/Dressner and distributed by David Bowler in NYC

First, and without trying to make any kind of generalization, I need to say that overall, 2009 was across the board a very good vintage, combining ideal climate and temperatures with optimum ripeness, great structure and complex resulting wines in many regions across the hexagonal country, as we like to call it in France. Many of you may have already realized that most 2009 French (and most European too) whites and rosés were quite fat and intense compared to 2008 and more especially 2007, which were leaner, somewhat more classic vintage depending on the region (and depending on your taste and palate too).

For the reds, 2009 seamed to ally similar ripeness as in the 2005 and 2006 vintage with the acidity of 2006 and 2008 and the tannins of 2007 (do you still follow me?). In any case and however you take it, it was a very good year, which produced exceptional wines for most producers. And the 2009 Clos de la Roilette Fleuire is no exception; on the contrary, it is a great example of what 2009 has to offer in the Beaujolais region.

It shows a bright ruby red color with pinkish reflects. The nose has reminiscent of earth combined with charming and inviting freshly crushed red and dark cherry aromas. Despite the ripeness of the vintage, the generous palate has a lovely crisp texture with excellent tannic structure and vivid, racy acidity that enhances the ripe red and dark berry flavors. This wine is really nice, balanced, focus, elegant and juicy with a lingering finish full of bright red cherry and earthy, mineral tones. What a delightful wine! Agreeable, gentle yet solidly built, crisp, juicy and crunchy like I love. I could enjoy drinking quite a bit of this wine.

It shows great potential, complexity and length in a straight to the point package. No chi-chi. No bla-bla. Just a great straight earthy wine that has the character and the profile of a charismatic vigneron, the frank and uncomplicated old style of “les hommes du terroir”, a wine that remind me my late grandfather and the winemakers of his generation (check out the picture of Monsieur Coudert on Louis/Dressner website, and you’ll understand what I’m trying to say). They knew how to make wine that expresses their terroir of origin and the full complexity of the grape variety’s aromas and flavors.

There are plenty of bad wines in the market, because there are plenty of bad and none passionate winemakers and too much vines planted where they shouldn’t have been planted (increase of the demand, lack of soil study, lack of knowledge, or skills or experience, etc…), but put a passionate winemaker on a great terroir and you’ll obtain magnificent results.

The list of my favorite estates and wines from around the world will be too long to develop in just one post, therefore I will just say that, like many other great wineries and estates that ally the resourceful human qualities with the qualities of a preserved and naturally tended Terroir and vineyard, Clos de la Roilette has established itself as a benchmark standard of high quality for the Fleurie appellation and an inspiration for wine buyer like me to constantly buy their wines year after year.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from the importer website at http://louisdressner.com/Coudert

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines (and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide.

2006 Chateau Cambon Beaujolais Villages Bourgogne France

Chateau Cambon Beaujolais Villages Bourgogne France

It all started in 1995, when Marie and Marcel Lapierre, in association with Jean Claude Chanudet (from “Domaine Chamonard”), purchased Château de Cambon, which was in bankruptcy. They brought a renaissance to the estate and restructured its vineyards.

Marie is managing it. Marcel Lapierre, her husband, who also owns a Domaine in Morgon (hence Domaine Marcel Lapierre), is the vineyard manager/winemaker and Jean Claude is in charge of all the technical and material part. Although Marcel adapts the same care and methods as with his own Domaine in Morgon, the three of them make the final decision regarding the wines.

Although the vineyard management is not technically Biodynamic or Organic, they use the “Lutte Raisonnée” method, which is quite close to both despite the use of chemicals when needed.

“Lutte Raisonnée” means that they adopt different attitudes and methods in the parcels depending on the vines, the nature of the soil, the environment and the necessary measures that need to be taken depending on the vintage, the weather and micro-climates. It also means that they only apply minimal or barely no use of chemicals treatment (pesticides, herbicides, etc) to fight diseases and fungus, only when really necessary. Also, when they do not use any chemical, they treat the vineyard with Biodynamic products and plow their vines.

The vineyards of this estate are located between the crus of Morgon and Fleurie. But due to bureaucratic indecisiveness between 1935 and 1936 when most Beaujolais and Cru Beaujolais AOC(s) were created, this vineyard was not included in either cru, but just given a Beaujolais-Villages designation. Since the owners at this time did not protest the decision, this land will forever be designated as Beaujolais-Villages or Beaujolais.

That said, Marie and Marcel believe that these wines show a marked resemblance to the Morgon cru. Marcel vinifies them in the same manner and enthusiasm as with his other wines at Domaine Lapierre in Morgon.

Harvests are done manually with serious sortings, made by each harvester when they pick the grapes in the vineyards, then re-verified when they empty their basket in the large bucket behind the tractor before going to the winery, and one last time at the winery.

Usually they only make 2 different wines, the rosé Beaujolais wine (wine of bleeding or “saignée”) to allow better concentration to their Beaujolais red and, thus, the red Beaujolais wine. Occasionally, when the vintages are very good, they also make the Cuvée “Le CAMBON”, a Beaujolais Villages that is made with the best grapes of the vintage from the older vines. When the vintage is not as good, they mix all the grapes and only produce the Beaujolais red. In any cases, they sell everything every year one way or another, which is another proof of the high quality of this estate and the people behind it.

All their wines are produce and vinified with all natural yeasts and without SO2 or “chaptalisation” in 40-75 hl foudres (large oak vats). Only tiny doses of sulphur are added to increase stability and avoid oxidation, but bottling occurs without filtration. The wines are as natural as can be and the result in the bottle is vibrant and alive.



2006 Chateau Cambon Beaujolais Villages Burgundy France
Suggested retail price $18-$21
Imported by Polaner Selection in NYC

The 2006 vintage is characterized by the ripeness but also the freshness of the fruit. Expressing the typical red fruits of Gamay combined with the minerality of the soil; this wine is quite delicious and somewhat elegant with a nice dose of earthiness.

Behind its deep red-purple color, which is by the way, slightly cloudy, this wine presents inviting and complex aromas of cherry-like fruit with earthy notes. A touch rustic, the palate is fresh and juicy, with red cherry fruit enhanced by a great acidity. The finish is a touch dry and needs a bit of food but has good structure overall.

Marcel Lapierre and his team once again managed to produce great Beaujolais that deserve some attention. Not to mention it again, but this is an unchaptalised, unfiltered, unfined, unsulphured wine from somewhat partly Biodynamic-Organic vines made by Beaujolais wizards that are very talented at what they do. Domaine Marcel Lapierre, Domaine Chamonard and Chateau Cambon are some of the best Beaujolais of the Morgon area and surely some of the most natural, really expressing the characteristics of their Terroir of origin.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from an email from Marie Lapierre to produce a technical sheet for Domaine Marcel Lapierre and Domaine Chamonard for Savio Soares (see also Savio Soares website at savinho.com) and from Chateau Cambon importer website at www.polanerselections.com


Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines (and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability.

2008 Domaine du Salvard Cheverny Red Loire Valley France

Domaine du Salvard Cheverny Red Loire Valley France

After my last post on the Cour-Cheverny from Domaine de Montcy (posted on 07.21.09 at www.ledomduvin.com) about their beautiful Romorantin based white wine, I’m bringing you back again to the « Garden of France », in the little village Cheverny.

The village of Cheverny is nestled about 16kms southeast of Blois, not far from highway “A10”, roughly halfway between Tours (75kms to the southwest) and Orleans (67kms to the northeast).

In the "département" of the “Loire-et-Cher”, Cheverny is small appellation surrounding its namesake village, located in an area where some of the most beautiful French Chateaux enhance and even embellish the landscape.

If you take the road going southwest from Orleans to Tours and if you venture around in some of surrounding villages, you may come across some of the most beautiful and aristocratic architectural vestiges from France’s royal history, like:

• the charming “Chateau de Cheverny” (mid 17th century),

• the amazing and imposing “Château de Chambord” (early 16th century),

• overlooking the Loire river the “Château d’Amboise” (11-15th century),

• the elegant and distinguished “Château de Chenonceau” spanning majestically above the Cher river (11th century),

• the multiple façades of the “Château de Blois” (13-17th century),

• the bold and rounded “Château de Valençay” with its picturesque garden (mid 16th century)

• the low-key yet racy “Château de Azay-le-Rideau” (early 16th century);

• the small and quaint “Château de Troussay” (mid 15th century).

Cheverny is often associated with its name-like neighbor Cour-Cheverny, located a stone-throw from each other. Yet they are totally different and produce unidentical wines.

Cour-Cheverny village lies in the Loire valley, north-east of Tours and about 12 km (7.4 miles) southeast of Blois and about 1.3 km (0.8 miles) north of Cheverny, on the road between Blois and the village of Romorantin-Lanthenay, where the Romorantin grape supposedly took its name from. Cour-Cheverny only produces Romorantin based white wines, which are fresh, slightly nutty with fresh almond notes, great acidity, structure and texture. They are quite unusual and are worth discovering.

Cheverny produces refreshing whites usually made with Chardonnay and Sauvignon, but also some light, earthy reds that are made from Cabernet Franc, Gamay and Pinot Noir, while Pineau d'Aunis and Grolleau are allowed for the few rosé wines produced in small quantities. Talking about a red Cheverny, here is a good example of it from Domaine du Salvard.

Domaine du Salvard

Existing for more than 100 years but firmly established in the 1930s, Domaine du Salvard is a small family-run winery owned and operated by Emmanuel Delaille and his brother Thierry, located in the small hamlet of Fougères-sur-Brièvre (11kms southwest of Cheverny).

Recognized for its Sauvignon based whites, Domaine du Salvard also produces great reds. Passed down through generations, the Domaine expanded from roughly 10 to 35 hectares of vines, which are managed under sustainable culture.

The vineyards have been planted with approximately 90% Sauvignon Blanc and a touch of Chardonnay to make their Cheverny white (85% Sauv. & 15% Chard.), with a complementing small amount of Pinot Noir and Gamay to make their red Cheverny (50/50). None of their wines see any oak treatment, and the resulting wines offers great balance, acidity, harmony and Terroir expression.

Representing the 5th generation Emmanuel and Thierry follow the steps of their ancestors and continue with conviction and even more enthusiasm to craft elegant, racy and earthy wines within the same family winemaking tradition.




2008 Domaine du Salvard Cheverny Red Loire Valley France
Suggested retail price $13-$16
Imported by Kermit Lynch & distributed by Winebow in NYC

A blend of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Gamay, the 2008 Salvard red Cheverny is delightfully expressive, fresh and earthy, and unoaked. Behind its youthful bright ruby red color, this wine offers vivid aromas of freshly crushed wild red berries, minerality, earth and floral hints. The palate is zesty, juicy, racy and earthy with the type of flavors as in the nose. It is balanced and inviting, versatile and refreshing, with great harmony between the acidity and the red fruit. The lingering finish calls for another glass. Definitely a springy-summery wine to serve room temperature or even slightly chilled on cold cuts, appetizers, salad, goat cheese or simply on its own by a late warm afternoon.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

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Bugey & NV Renardat-Fache Vin du Bugey Cerdon Méthode Ancestrale France

Bugey & NV Renardat-Fache Vin du Bugey Cerdon Méthode Ancestrale France

After my previous post on Banyuls to welcome Spring season and in the mean time Easter, here is a post about a rather underrated sparkling wine from the eastern part of France, which will surely enhance your chocolate delights for Pâques.

The wine in question is a slightly sweet sparkling rosé from Cerdon, a small village located in a remote mountainous area in the eastern part of France, near the Swiss border, in the département of “Ain”.

Cerdon is one of the villages that constitute the appellation of Bugey, a fairly unknown wine region nestled in the foothills of the French alps, near Savoie, about 90 kms northeast-east of Lyon and about 80 kms southwest of Geneva.

A high proportion of Bugey wines are white, but white, rosé, red and sparkling wines are all produced in Bugey. The aromatic white variety Altesse, locally called Roussette, produces some of the more noted wines from the area.

Bugey produces various wines under the 2 major VDQS appellations: Roussette du Bugey and Vin du Bugey (VDQS: Vin Délimité de Qualité Superieure), which is itself divided in 3 Crus and other sub-appellations (also VDQS) producing different type of wines, mentioning on the label: “Vin du Bugey” followed by the name of the Cru or/and a specific grape variety and/or the type of wine (Mousseux, Pétillant).

Here is a short list of the most established:

• Bugey VDQS: white, rosé and red
  

• Roussette du Bugey VDQS: exclusively made with Roussette

• Vin du Bugey Montagnieu VDQS: specializes in Roussette-based sparkling and still white wines with a small production of red.
  

• Vin du Bugey Manicle VDQS: the birthplace of Brillat-Savarin, mainly produces Chardonnay and Jacquère based wines and a small production of red.
  

• Vin du Bugey Cerdon VDQS: specializes exclusively in semi-sweet sparkling rosé made from Gamay and Poulsard.
  

Rarely mentioned by the press and difficult to find or pinpoint on a map, this recluse and rustic, yet quaint but low-key area has still succeeded to make a name for itself over the last decade, due to the quality of its wines. Consequently, in May 2009, Vin du Bugey (or Bugey) and Roussette du Bugey received the final approval from the INAO (Institut National des Appellations d’Origine or French National Institute for the AOC), to be elevated from VDQS to AOC (Appellation d’Origine Controllée) status. A distinction that should increases the already consistent quality of the wines and should bring more attention and light to this charming area.

Despite their new status, the vineyards are still hard to find and consists of about 500 hectares spread out over 67 villages in the “Ain” département, in small patches of vines planted on steep, mostly south facing slopes, scattered between cattle grazing and small farms. It is in this undiscovered region that one of the oldest sparkling French winemaking techniques is still practiced, to produce one of the flagships of the Bugey appellation: “Bugey- Cerdon Méthode Ancestrale”.

The “Méthode Ancestrale” is rarely used in France nowadays, yet, in 1962, it was approved to be the only method used to produce “Vin du Bugey – Cerdon”. Bugey – Cerdon must be crafted from 100% Gamay or a blend of mostly Gamay with an addition of Poulsard, and sometime a touch of Chardonnay (depending on the producer).

The method results in a lightly sparkling, medium sweet wine. It involves bottling partially fermented young wines, usually in champagne shaped bottles, before all the residual sugar has been fermented into alcohol. Therefore, the fermentation continues in the bottle and gives off carbon dioxide, which explains the presence of bubbles. The wine is designed to be sweeter and less fizzy than a champagne method sparkling wine and no dosage is allowed.

Served cold or slightly cool, Bugey – Cerdon is a refreshing and fun bubbly to be consumed within the first 1 year after bottling (almost like a sparkling Beaujolais Nouveau, but much better). Its delightful berry flavors make it the perfect apéritif! It is also highly recommended to serve it with red fruit-based and chocolate desserts.




NV Renardat-Fache Vin du Bugey Cerdon Méthode Ancestrale France
Suggested retail price $18-$21
Imported by Louis/Dressner and Distributed by Polaner in NYC

Alain Renardat is a respected vigneron in Cerdon. The Domaine is located in Merignat, a small village, 4 kms southwest of Cerdon, part of the Bugey-Cerdon appellation. Alain and his son Elie make their Cerdon from Gamay and Poulsard, and follow the "Méthode Ancestrale" (which differ totally from the widely used Méthode Champenoise, or else plain carbonation, the preferred method used for less expensive sparkling wines).

The grapes are handpicked, then pressed and fermented in cold vats until the alcohol reaches about 6 degrees. After a light filtration that leaves most of the active yeast in the unfinished wine, it is bottled and continues its fermentation in the bottle, reaching about 7.5 or 8 degrees of alcohol and retaining a fair quantity of its original sugar. It is more “vinous” (or “Vineux” in French, meaning that the resulting wine still possess freshly crushed grapey primary aromas) than most Champagne, since there is neither dosage nor addition of yeast before the “second” fermentation in the bottle.

NV Renardat-Fache Vin du Bugey Cerdon Méthode Ancestrale is a great semi-sweet sparkling wine to enjoy at anytime. The color is light, festive pinkish red, with gentle bubbles. The nose is a bowl of freshly crushed red berries aromas intermingled with earthy, mineral and floral hints. The palate is soft, well rounded and well balanced, neither too sweet, neither too dry, just right in the middle, with a note of residual sugar in the finish. Really approachable, juicy and easy going. Spring and Summery, its effervescence will enhance any strawberry, cherry and raspberry desserts and sorbets, as well as chocolate.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken from the importer at www.louisdressner.com and the distributor website at www.polanerselections.com

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Vallee d'Aoste: high altitude undiscovered wine gems & 2008 GrosJean Frères "GrosJean Gamay" Vallée d'Aosta

Vallee d'Aoste: high altitude undiscovered wine gems

Vallee d'Aoste (in French) also known as Aosta Valley (in English), and Valle d'Aosta (in Italian) corresponds to northwestern part of Italy, bordering Switzerland to the North and France to the west, and Piedmont to the southeast. A narrow valley surrounded by magnificent mountains, sculpted a long time ago by the melting glaciers, where Romans have tamed a bit of land to grow the blood of the earth: wine.

The main town, located in the middle of this area at the bottom of the Valley of the same name, is Aosta, hence the name of the appellation. A few more towns, or villages should I say, as important as Aosta, also deserve to be mentioned: Quart, Chambave, Morgex, La Salle, Chatillon, Gressan, Sarre & Saint-Pierre (and a few more).

Following the valley bottom-land and passing by these quaint "mountainous" villages, nicely curves of the Dora Baltea, also known as Doire Baltée (in French), the main river of the Valle d'Aosta, descending from the highest mountains of the Alps, the Mont-Blanc and joining the Po river to the west of the town of Crescentino.

Valle d'Aosta DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) roughly stretches from the town of Courmayeur to the west (close to Mont-Blanc) to Verres to the south-east, with sloped vineyards (around the villages) planted on the foothills of the diverse surrounding mounts: Monte Fallere, Monte Faroma, Monte Emilius, etc..., primarily on the eastern part of the Dora Baltea river, with Aosta as the main wine capital.

The region is divided into three main vineyard areas:

• The upper valley "Valdigne", with wine made down the south of Courmayeur with the most well-known, crisp and vivid white wine coming from Morgex et de la Salle.

• The central valley or "Valle Centrale", the most productive area, is further sub-divided into four areas within the Valle d'Aoste DOC: Enfer d'Arvier (around the village of Arvier), Torrette (located east of Arvier and occupying a large portion of the Valle d'Aosta), and the villages of Nus and Chambave (making interesting reds).

• The lower valley or "Bassa Valley" also produces some interesting wines that are mostly sold locally and rarely seen on the outside market.
  

Most of these small areas produce, at least, 2 to 3 different wines, whites and reds, made from a wide array of indigenous and more international grape varieties, like: Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Freisa, Neyret, Pinot Noir, Vien de Nus, Gamay, Petite Rouge, Furmin, Pinot Gris, Malvoisie, Premetta, Petite Arvine, Muller-Thurgau, Chardonnay and a few more.

From all the cited-above grape varieties, Valle d'Aoste produces racy, vivid, crisp, usually light, fruity and playful, yet balanced, harmonious and mineral, very versatile red, white and sparkling wines (and rare few roses) that are worth trying and discovering over earthy meals.


We just bought two great Vallee d'Aoste wines for the store (from two of my favorite wine importers, who happen to be part of the rare breed of the most Terroir-driven-and-authentic-wine-finders in America: Rosenthal and Dressner), and the two sub-division areas of concern for today's post are: Quart and Torrette.


Quart is a remote little village of Valle Centrale, located east Aosta, producing mainly red wines from Gamay and Pinot Noir, planted at slightly different altitude about 2500 feet (760 meters) above sea level, on slopes mainly facing south with ideal drainage (obviously, it is in the mountains...) and sun exposure, in the southern foothills of Monte Faroma.

GrosJean Frères "GrosJean Gamay" Vallée d'Aosta Olignan Quart Italy

Grosjean Frères winery is located on the border of the towns of Quart and Saint Christophe in the Valle d'Aosta, a small mountainous region of the Northwestern part of Italy. The vines planted initially, in addition to the traditional Petit Rouge, were Gamay, Pinot Noir and Petite Arvine, and currently are growing even as the native Fumin, Cornalin, Prëmetta and Vuillermin.

Although the family has for centuries made and keep wine (and nuts) for the long winter months in the mountains, everything really started in 1969, when the family members began to bottle their own wine for presentation at "The Exposition des vins du Val d'Aoste". It was this exhibition that stimulated the initiative that brought the company from 3,000 square meters to the actual 7 hectares of vineyards, with the involvement of the 5 children, thus the name "Grosjean Frères" (meaning Grosjean "brothers" in French).

Grosjean Frères is part of the Association of "Viticulteurs Encaveurs" Valdostan which brings together 24 small producers who were able to characterize the quality and typicality of their wines produced in the Valle d'Aosta DOC. This group of tenants has a close relationship with the land (Valle d'Aosta) and personally follows all stages of production, from vineyard to cellar to retail sale. The "Viticulteurs Encaveurs" devoted great attention to farming techniques and traditional vinification - handed down from father to son - and both are compared to new ideas and technologies, always with a view to use friendly and natural agriculture.

This wine is 100% Gamay from high altitude vineyards, from 600 to 750 m altitude, planted on steep slopes (30-60%) of loose soil of moraine with ideal south and south-west exposure. The wine was crafted in stainless steel tanks where it underwent a short maceration of 4-5 days, which explain the light color, and was then fermented. After fermentation, the wine rested for at least 3-6 months in stainless steel tanks to keep the freshness before bottling.




2008 GrosJean Frères "GrosJean Gamay" Vallée d'Aosta Olignan Quart Italy
Suggested retail price $18-$21
Imported / Distributed by Rosenthal / Madrose

2008 Grosjean Frères Gamay Vallee d'Aosta is a great wine with lot of focus and brightness. Passed its light, bright transparent, red-ruby-pinkish-red onionskin color, the nose offers vivid mineral, light red cherry and floral notes intermingled with earth and smoke. The palate has an excellent balance with broad, quite deep red fruit flavors, well-integrated tannic structure and a racy, lifting acidity nicely carrying the fruit. The finish is quite dry yet juicy and refreshing with dry red cherry, flowers and more mineral and earth.

Overall, even if not your everyday wine, this high altitude Gamay is really good with a beautiful, very broad smooth mouth-feel full of freshness. Serve it with simple dish like pasta, cold cuts and soups, or even fish.



The second wine comes from the Vallee d'Aoste DOC "Torrette" area.

Vallée d’Aoste "Torrette" DOC produces harmonious, soft, easy drinking red wines with crisp, dry, red fruit flavors whose qualities were already renowned in the last century. It is currently the most produced "Valdostane" wine and its production area is the largest among the DOC certified areas in the Vallee d'Aoste region, extending over 11 villages: Quart, Saint-Christophe, Aosta, Sarre, Saint-Pierre, Charvensod, Gressan, Jovencan, Aymavilles, Villenenuve and Introd.

The red wines made in Torrette DOC must be crafted with at least 70% of Petit Rouge grapes, which can be blended with Pinot Noir, Gamay, Fumin, Vien de Nus, Dolcetto, Majolet or Prëmetta. Torrette is a light-medium red wine (12°-13°) which can be served throughout an entire meal. It is ideal served with meat, excellent with roasts and game, but also local sliced pork meat and mature cheese. The Supérieur version, produced from the sunniest vineyards with a limited production per hectare, differs due to its greater concentration of grapes and more prolonged aging.

Noussan Tourette Petite Rouge Valle d'Aoste Saint-Christophe Italy

Noussan, like most Val d'Aosta wines, is a tiny family owned winery by Franco Noussan.

Franco Noussan is somewhat of a “garagiste” in St Christophe, a little village located in the hills northeast above the town of Aosta. His cave is dug into the hillside and is literally an extension of his garage. He is a teacher at the local university in Aosta and when not teaching, he likes to work in the vineyards and make wine and eaux-de-vie.

The grapes are from small family parcels in different areas near St-Christophe. In 1999, his family acquired vineyards from his wife Gabriella’s side. They were all old vines vineyards, the majority over 70 years, planted in Petit Rouge, Mayolet, Fumin and Pinot Gris. The vines are all over 40 years and the majority much older. In 2003 he also began renting some vineyards and now has about 5.5 hectares of surface. The vineyards are worked without herbicides and are plowed. The yields are kept small. He started making wine just for the family’s and friends’ consumption, but then began bottling and selling the wine in 2005 under his own label.

The grapes are harvested by hand, the fermentations are made with indigenous yeast in stainless steel tanks, pressed using a hand press, then the wine is aged in smaller oak barrels from a year to 14 months. The wines are bottled unfiltered. All of this done in Franco’s garage/cave.

His "Torrette" is mainly crafted with "Petit Rouge" (over 70%) blended with other indigenous grape varieties like Mayolet, Cornalin and Vien de Nus.



2007 Noussan Vallee d'Aoste DOC Tourette Italy
Suggested retail price $22-$25
Imported / Distributed by Louis/Dressner in NYC

Not to compare it with the previous wine, because of the different grape varieties (Gamay for the previous one and Petit Rouge for this one) and area of production, but this wine has a deeper color, dark red ruby with nice reflects and a somewhat less austere, more playful attitude, although it is also less complex or serious in a way, but much more approachable and inviting for a wider range of palate.

The gamay from Grosjean is a bright, serious, delectable red wine that I enjoyed very much, but this Torrette from Noussan is such an interesting wine too, that has somewhat more fruit to offer for a similar price, which makes it quite irresistible.

Fun and playful in the palate, it displays generous and ripe red cherry and wild berry flavors mixed with floral and mineral notes. The wine is really integrated and really juicy. Soft, mellow, friendly, we drank it over a piece of bucheron goat cheese and it was delightful. Along with the fruit, the balancing acidity and the mineral side of this wine constitute the main enjoyable features of this lovely, undiscovered wine. It was so easy to drink that we finished the bottle in no time.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken (and edited) from Rosenthal website at www.madrose.com (for Grosjean Freres Gamay); from Louis/Dressner website at www.louisdressner.com (for Noussan Torrette); and from Vallee d'Aoste/Valle d'Aosta website at http://gestionewww.regione.vda.it/turismo/prodotti_territorio/enogastronomia/vini/torrette_e.asp (for the info about Torrette DOC)

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2007 Chapelle des Bois Fleurie Beaujolais France

Chapelle des Bois Fleurie Beaujolais France

Located just about 50 kms north of Lyon and 15 minutes south of Macon, "Chapelle des Bois" is a "lieu dit", located at the southern entrance of the village of Fleurie, one of the Cru Beaujolais in Burgundy.

For those of you who might wonder what a "Lieu dit" is? Here is an explanation.

In the medieval time (between the 5th and 15th century and probably before that), when the land lords (Bourgeois, Aristocrats and other King's court usual suspects like Dukes, Barons, Princes, Knights, etc...) used to reign over the peasants (farmers, growers, blacksmiths, etc...), names were attributed to agricultural and viticultural small parcels of land or vineyards as well as small community neighbors (small group of houses in the middle of fields usually inhabited by the cited above peasants).

These names were often given after specific landmarks (like Chateaux, Churches, Cloisters, Domaine, etc..); small parcels of land (agricultural or not) or vineyards with specific Terroir characteristics (often related to the soil's composition or the predominant plants or trees) and also the predominant family name of the designated area (usually related to their place of origin or their job, which often became with time their last name too). Time passed yet traditions remained, even up until today, the "Lieu dits" still exist and find their stronger meaning and sense of place in the vineyards all around France.

Depending on their Terroir characteristics and their qualities, also depending on the region, they became what we now know as the "Grand Cru", "1er Cru" and other strange additional names on the labels that are so characteristic to the French wines. More especially in places where traditions still prevail like in Burgundy, Rhône, Alsace and the Loire Valley. One can also find quite a few in Champagne and the Languedoc; and just a rare few in the Southwest of France (Cahors, Madiran, etc..) and a fair amount in the eastern part of France, in Savoie and Jura. But barely none in Bordeaux for example; which is strange because, like most of the entire countryside in France, Bordeaux possesses a lot of "Lieu dits" morceling (dividing) the small villages and the surrounding lands into giant puzzles, sometimes difficult to understand if you didn't grow up in the area, yet you rarely see the name of a "Lieu dit" on Bordeaux bottles.

"Lieu Dit" is basically an old French agricultural and viticultural term designating a small, delimited area for traditional and specific reasons, which has a traditional name assigned to it. "Lieu dit" has been eventually, and especially by traditions, promoted and perpetuated by the winegrowers and its typical, and now firmly established, usage translates as a "vineyard or parcel's name" or a "named vineyard or parcel or Clos". In most cases, a "lieu-dit" is usually smaller than an Appellation and could be translated as a sub-division of higher pedigree and specific Terroir characteristics within an appellation (Grand cru, 1er Cru, etc..), or even within the different vineyards of an estate (designated parcel or vineyards names).

Not to be mistaken with the late XVIIIth century "Château de la Chapelle des Bois", also in Fleurie, "Domaine de la Chapelle des Bois" is a small estate owned by the same family for the past 7 generations, which can be traced up until 1820, with Chantal & Eric Coudert-Appert, the current owner, being the last generation. In 1991, Chantal took over her father who took over the estate in 1962 from his own parents and so on.

Like in many other small Domaines, Chantal and Eric take care of everything themselves from the vineyards to cellar, and all the different steps of the vinification process. It allows them to have a perfect control and knowledge over the work done in the vineyards and in the cellar. They hand harvest the grapes which undergo their fermentation process in cement tanks. Everything is done with extreme attention to details in the most natural way possible.Their passion, care and hard work is reflected in their wines. The quality of their wines and the numerous accolades and notes of appreciations from the customers are their best rewards.

Domaine de La Chapelle des Bois possesses 8.4 hectares of vineyards located in Fleurie and Chiroubles, in the heart of the Cru Beaujolais. The little house, also called "Cadole" in French, standing in the middle of the vineyards on the label, used to exist and was used by the workers during their break for the lunch and to stock vineyard tools, but it was destroyed by the terrible storm of 1999. It was drawn quite some time ago by one of their friends, an Englishman named Peter, and they are quite thankful for it is now one of the last memory of this "Cadole", which has now a symbolic and sentimental meaning.



2007 Chapelle des Bois Fleurie Beaujolais France
Suggested retail price $18-$21
Imported / Distributed by Rosenthal / Madrose

Made from 100% Gamay Noir a jus Blanc, from vines averaging 40 year old, planted on granitic soils, this wine underwent traditional fermentation and semi-carbonic "cuvaison" for 10-15 days in order to extract the voluptuous fruit and feminine profile authentic to Fleurie. Drinkable now and expressing bright aromas of red fruit, you can also wait for another 2-3 years, it will surely enhance the complexity of the aromas which usually come with a bit of aging in the bottle.

The 2007 Fleurie possesses a dark ruby color of good intensity. Initially slightly rustic on the nose, it offers charming cherry aromas with intense stony minerality, and some blueberry notes. At first a bit tight and earthy in the mouth, it definitely benefits of a bit of patience and a good swirl in the glass to fully express itself. The palate, once open, develops with intensely concentrated red and dark fruits complemented by great earthiness. Slightly tannic finish, the balance between the rich fruit and the acidity in this wine is the charming key. After quite a few minutes, it evolves gently and smooths out some of the slight rustic edges.

Overall, pretty good, slightly rustic with row components (nothing abnormal for a natural wine) yet offering plenty of fruit and layered subtle nuances, really expressive of Fleurie's Terroir. Enjoy it with earthy dishes: game, birds, veal stew, and rack of lamb.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info roughly translated from the winery website at www.coudert-appert.fr

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Some red wines for Thanksgiving and the holidays of the end of the year

Some red wines for Thanksgiving and the holidays of the end of the year

This week is "Beaujolais Nouveau" week, with its release this Thusrday, November 19th; followed by "Thanksgiving" the next week on Thursday, November 26th. Two great occasions to fill up your cellar with Gamay and Cabernet Franc based wines. Soon to come Christmas and New Year's eve will be greater occasions but I will suggest you different wines and festive sparkling gems. However, Beaujolais and Gamay are in the spotlight this week, so let's talk about them.

Led by firmly established brands, (somewhat too commercial for my liking: i.e. George Duboeuf, Louis Jadot, Labouré-Roi and Drouhin), Beaujolais Nouveau invades the US and the rest of the world market, each year on the 3rd Thursday of the month of November. It triggers excitement and excess of craziness, always a good excuse to party and celebrate, and usually disturbs (or even disfigures) the decor of your local wine boutique for at least 3-4 weeks, occupying the front shelves and the easy-to-find "displays" next to the registers (up until the end of the year).

It is usually an easy sale which requires no special skills but a simple sentence: "Nice, fruity, simple and juicy, and this year it bursts "Banana" (or strawberry) flavors"(by the way, IMO, Duboeuf this year seems to be a mix of both....try it, you'll see). The other good thing about Beaujolais Nouveau is that it gathers people and usually untied their tongues which inevitably lead to empty, never-ending conversations about the subject for a few days.

It used to be a great tradition up until a few years, but, gradually, over the last 2-3 years Beaujolais Nouveau has been overlooked for better wines and more interesting values, probably due to an over excessive dose of battering propaganda, mass marketing and more often lack of quality.

The phenomenon may still work in restaurants by the glass, but people have slowly abandoned the idea of buying Beaujolais Nouveau in wine stores to replace it with (or simply continue to buy) better wines at better value, or even straight Beaujolais Villages that are usually far better and more complex for about the same price or just a bit more.

What also happen is that people buy a bottle of Duboeuf for fun and also buy a bottle of a different producer like Dupeuble or Domaine de La Madone (by Jean Bererd et Fils) which are a bit more expensive, to compare them, the later being often the winner.

However, what I saw over the last few years are constant decreases of sales resulting in left over stocks of Beaujolais Nouveau bottles up until March of the next year. Every retailer will tell you that the turn over is not good enough. More over, most retailers usually end up by reducing the price of the last remaining bottles in January just to get rid of them. Even this year, we decide to go with only three producers and to only order 5 cases of each max (10-15 for the best seller, no name...) just to avoid having some left over in January (who wants to sell Beaujolais Nouveau in January?...so imagine March!).

People who know me well or/and follow this blog, knows that I'm very open minded and I try to keep my palate has open as possible to everything from everywhere without having any prejudices or try to discriminate a wine because of its color, its grape variety, its region of origin or its taste, because I believe that, as I always say, "Every wine should be tasted, even if every wine shouldn't be drunk!"

However, they will also tell you that I'm a pain in the butt, that even if open minded, I'm somewhat very picky and will tell you straight what I think about a wine, bad or not, and that I only love of a few and rare wine portfolios and wine importers/distributors in New York, like: Rosenthal, Louis Dressner, Jenny & Francois, Kermit Lynch, Martine Saunier, Peter Weygandt, Wineberry, Little Wine Company, The Wine List, Jan D'Amore, Maximilien Selection, Baron Francois, and a few more.... but more especially, they will tell you that I love odd wines and rare and lesser appreciated red grapes like: Gamay, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Cot, Tannat, Counoise, Cinsault, Carignan, etc...

In short, I like Beaujolais and even a few of the Beaujolais Nouveau, but I think there are better Gamay wines out there, if you really want to experience Beaujolais wines. That is why I decided to come with a list of alternative wines also made with Gamay and a few made with Cabernet Franc and other lesser known grape varieties to complement your Thanksgiving dinner and for you to enjoy through out the end of this year.

2007 Domaine Cheveau "Or Rouge" Beaujolais Villages Burgundy France

Suggested retail price $13-$16
Imported / Distributed by Madrose / Rosenthal wine merchants in NYC

The Domaine Michel Cheveau was created in the 1950s by André Cheveau and is now operated by his son, Michel, and his grandson, Nicolas. The family home and the cellars are situated in the heart of the village of Pouilly. A total of thirteen hectares of vineyards are owned and cultivated by the Cheveau family with the holdings spread out over a variety of villages and climats. The vineyards are worked without fertilizers and the harvest is done manually. After a gentle passage through a pneumatic press, the fermentation occurs in temperature-controlled conditions. The elevage is done either in stainless steel or in small and mid-size oak barrels, depending on the appellation and structure of the wine. Domaine Michel Cheveau makes balanced, fresh, focus and juicy wines from Macon-Chaintré & Fuissé, Saint-Veran, Beaujolais villages and Beaujolais cru Saint Amour.

Cheveau “Or Rouge” is a light yet generous, easy-drinking Gamay made from old vines. A Beaujolais Villages with great structure and length, it is fresh, smooth and fruity, ready to be popped and poured as an accompaniment to a variety of meats, pastas and cheeses.




2007 Domaine Granger Julienas Cuvée Spéciale Cru Beaujolais Burgundy France
Suggested retail price $20-$23
Imported / Distributed by Madrose / Rosenthal wine merchants in NYC

The Granger family has been involved in the production of grapes and the making of wine from father to son for over 200 years. Originally from the village of Chenas, for the last century the Grangers have lived and worked in Julienas. Pascal Granger, born in 1961, is now the owner and winemaker and guiding spirit behind the Domaine. He mainly produces Julienas where he possesses about 8 hectares, plus a small amount of Chenas, Moulin a Vent and Beaujolais Villages. After a careful selection from his best parcels of vines, he separates the wine destined to be the "Grande Reserve" from the cuvee designated "Cuvee Speciale". These special wines are usually aged longer in barrel, the Grande Reserve remains in small oak barrels for two years prior to being bottled without filtration.

The 2006 Pascal Granger Julienas Cuvée Speciale is very attractive, bright yet generous, balanced, harmonious and delicate with earthy notes. Its juicy, red fruit character nicely intermingled with elegant acidity and pure mineral texture complement the earthy, slightly tannic and touch rustic texture. It clearly benefited from its ageing in aok which ads an extra dimension without being overwhelming. Like most of Granget’s wines, this Julienas has high quality profile and taste



2006 Domaine de Chatelard Fleurie Cru Beaujolais Burgundy France
Suggested retail price $20-$23
Imported / Distributed by Wineberry in NYC

The Chateau is nestled in the small village of Lancie, located south east of Fleurie and Chiroubles, in the northern part of the Beaujolais appellation where some of the best soils and terroirs lay on gentle slopes of the rolling hills of the land of the "Crus". Chateau du Chatelard has a long established wine reputation and history. The Chateau, rebuilt in the XVIIIth century after being destroyed during the French Revolution, now belongs to Sylvain and Isabelle Rosier. This young couple is passionate about wine and terroir, making beautifully crafted Beaujolais with old vines, some were planted around 1955, under sustainable and Biodynamic culture: no herbicide, respect of the biological life of the soil, short pruning on accordance to the moon, working the soil, leaving the grass and maximum foliage completed by selected hand harvest at full maturity, to obtain the best, healthy grapes. The resulting wines are great, balanced, fruity and gentle, yet rich and complex without being too opulent.

The well-crafted 2006 Chatelard Fleurie Vieux Granits possesses lovely purity of fruit, with raspberry and blackberry flavors. The palate is quite rich, fruity and expressive with a velvety texture and a long finish carried by ripe acidity that lets the fruit and spice notes hang on.




2007 Domaine Chamonard Morgon "Le Clos de Lys" Cru Beaujolais Burgundy France
Suggested retail price $24-$27
Imported / Distributed by Savio Soares in NYC

Joseph Chamonard was part of a group of friends, amongst some of the best Beaujolais’ producers, including Marcel Lapierre, Guy Breton, Jean-Paul Thévenet, Jean Foillard, and their mentor late Jules Chauvet. Joseph Chamonard died in 1990, and his daughter Geneviève, helped by her husband Jean-Claude Chanudet, continued making supple and fruit forward Beaujolais wine in the same old traditional way, walking in the steps of her father with combined Biodynamic-organic methods and respect for the natural environment. Recently imported by Savio Soares in New York, Chamonard’s wines were barely distributed outside of the local market and were apparently difficult to find even in Paris. Now available in New York, Chamonard’s wines feature on the selection of some of the most established wine boutiques and restaurants.

The 2007 vintage is a classic in Beaujolais, and this Chamonard Morgon reveals the high quality of the vintage topped with an attractive Terroir driven attitude. The nose is very fragrant, with straightforward aromas of light cherry and raspberry, and earthy notes. Light to medium in body, the wine is perfectly balanced between full fruit and lively acidity, with a light touch of yeast on the finish.



2008 Chateau Soucherie Anjou “Vendanges à la main” Loire Valley France
Suggested retail price $14-$17
Imported by Rosenthal / Madrose

The Tijou family has a long history as "viticulteurs" in the Loire Valley region near Angers. In fact, they have practiced their craft, father to son, since 1780. Pierre-Yves Tijou, the current proprietor, took over the management of the estate in 1969 and began to bottle a portion of the production. Today, the entire production is estate-bottled. More well-known for their Chaume and Savennieres, the Domaine encompasses about 30 hectares of vineyards in highly regarded vineyards such as “Chaume” and “Clos des Perriers” of which 18 hectares are planted with Chenin Blanc to produce their flagship wines from the seclusive “Coteaux du Layon” and “Savennieres” area; and 7 hectares Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc; and there are small parcels of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Gamay. Treatments in the vineyards are kept to an absolute minimum as the objective is to produce a wine in as natural a manner as possible. All grapes are harvested manually as the “vendanges a la main” on the label means.

Made from 100% Cabernet Franc, the 2008 Chateau Soucherie Anjou is a small production, racy red, with black currant and red cherry fruit flavors intermingled with slight toasted notes. Pretty balance and dry with bright red berries in the palate and good tannic structure. Overall this wine is quite good with a brambly finish showing hints of tobacco leaf and spice.

(FYI: Soucherie label as Changed and is slightly different than the one above).




2006 Chateau Grand Traverse Gamay Noir Old Mission Peninsula Michigan
Suggested retail price $16-$20
Importer / Distributor "The Wine List" in NYC

When you think of Gamay Noir, the first Appellation that comes to mind is Beaujolais. For many of us, Beaujolais only represents "Beaujolais Nouveau" (soon to arrive in the store, by tradition, the 3rd Thursday of November each year) which doesn't inspire anymore and usually triggers strange, disgusted expression of antipathy on the face of your interlocutor. However, the "Crus" Beaujolais are much better and traditionally labeled with the name of the village of origin: Morgon, Fleurie, Moulin a Vent, etc...

Well, in my opinion, Chateau Grand Traverse Gamay Noir 2006 vintage is like a well crafted "Crus Beaujolais". This reserve quality red wine is a blend of roughly 96% Gamay Noir and a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon. It was aged for 20 months in small partly used oak barrels, thus "Reserve". the resulting wine is quite juicy, earthy and balanced. The robe is quite dense, bright, ruby red color with medium to light intensity. The nose bursts attractive fruity aromas of red berries, with distinct tart cherry, tough red plum mixed with earthy, black pepper notes. During its ageing period in barrels, it developed wonderful depth and complexity. The palate is quite juicy, bright and racy, a touch tart some may say, but very well balanced and fairly long with vivid ripe red cherry flavors intermingled with hints of spices, pepper and oak, leading toward the earthy and slightly smoky finish framed by integrated tannins.

Quite lovely I must say for my first Michigan wine, a bit high in acidity but nice fruit overall, juicy mouth-feel and pleasant texture. A very good example of Gamay Noir that will enhance savory foods such as grilled venison, stuffed bell peppers, grilled salmon, roasted duck, or wild mushroom pizza. At room temperature, it was perfect.



2008 GrosJean Frères "GrosJean Gamay" Vallée d'Aosta Olignan Quart Italy
Suggested retail price $18-$21
Imported / Distributed by Rosenthal / Madrose

Grosjean Frères winery is located on the border of the towns of Quart and Saint Christophe in the Valle d'Aosta, a small mountainous region of the Northwestern part of Italy. The vines planted initially, in addition to the traditional Petit Rouge, were Gamay, Pinot Noir and Petite Arvine, and currently are growing even as the native Fumin, Cornalin, Prëmetta and Vuillermin.

Although the family has for centuries made and keep wine (and nuts) for the long winter months in the mountains, everything really started in 1969, when the family members began to bottle their own wine for presentation at "The Exposition des vins du Val d'Aoste". It was this exhibition that stimulated the initiative that brought the company from 3,000 square meters to the actual 7 hectares of vineyards, with the involvement of the 5 children, thus the name "Grosjean Frères" (meaning Grosjean "brothers" in French).

Grosjean Frères is part of the Association of "Viticulteurs Encaveurs" Valdostan which brings together 24 small producers who were able to characterize the quality and typicality of their wines produced in the Valle d'Aosta DOC. This group of tenants has a close relationship with the land (Valle d'Aosta) and personally follows all stages of production, from vineyard to cellar to retail sale. The "Viticulteurs Encaveurs" devoted great attention to farming techniques and traditional vinification - handed down from father to son - and both are compared to new ideas and technologies, always with a view to use friendly and natural agriculture.

This wine is 100% Gamay from high altitude vineyards, from 600 to 750 m altitude, planted on steep slopes (30-60%) of loose soil of moraine with ideal south and south-west exposure. The wine was crafted in stainless steel tanks where it underwent a short maceration of 4-5 days, which explain the light color, and was then fermented. After fermentation, the wine rested for at least 3-6 months in stainless steel tanks to keep the freshness before bottling.

2008 Grosjean Frères Gamay Vallee d'Aosta is a great wine with lot of focus and brightness. Passed its light, bright transparent, red-ruby-pinkish-red onionskin color, the nose offers vivid mineral, light red cherry and floral notes intermingled with earth and smoke. The palate has an excellent balance with broad, quite deep red fruit flavors, well-integrated tannic structure and a racy, lifting acidity nicely carrying the fruit. The finish is quite dry yet juicy and refreshing with dry red cherry, flowers and more mineral and earth. Overall, even if not your everyday wine, this high altitude Gamay is really good with a beautiful, very broad smooth mouth-feel full of freshness. Serve it with simple dish like pasta, cold cuts and soups, or even fish.



And to finish this post, here are a few non-Gamay based wines that I really enjoyed lately:





2006 De Bortoli Petit Verdot Vat # 4 Southeastern Australia
Suggested retail price $12-$14
Imported / Distributed by Opici in NYC

The inspiration for the Vat Series came from the early days when Deen de Bortoli would personally chalk numbers on vats to mark them out. Vat is the term for the large vessels, usually made of oak and bigger than the barrels, still use in a lot of wine regions by many producers, to hold the maturing wine before it is ready for bottling. Petit Verdot is a grape originally from France, more precisely Bordeaux where it is normally part of the blend in small quantity. However, in Australia Petit Verdot thrives in sunny climate and due to a longer ripening season, it is more often bottled on its own.

This wine exhibits aromas of violets, concentrated plum and blackberry with spicy notes. On the palate, this Petit Verdot is a delightful wine with medium to full intensity and generous fruit without being heavy or too opulent. Balanced , rich and supple, well rounded yet with good acidity, it exposes sweet vanillin and spicy oak character mixed with darker fruits as the result of the 12 months ageing in American oak barrels before bottling. Pair it with quail, veal and smoke meats.



2005 Heredad de Baroja "Rincon de Baroja' Crianza Rioja Álava Spain
Suggested retail price $12-$15
Imported / Distributed by Moonlight Wine Co. by friend Tony Gibson

Established in 1964, by the way one of the best vintages of the 20th century in France and Spain, Bodegas Heredad de Baroja, located in the village of Elvillar, Rioja Álava (South of the Basque country), was born from the initiative of its current owner, Fernando Meruelo, who named it after a famous Spanish Basque writer. He started by producing young wines (tinto) under the name of “Cautivo” and gradually enhanced his “Cautivo”selection by crafting Crianza, Reserva and Grand Reserva as the vines were getting older, thus producing better, richer, more complex wines. Exporting activities started in 1989 and now represents more than 50% of his production and total sales.

The construction of a new winery, the success of his newer style wines “Cautum” and “Lar de Paula” and revamping the image of his more traditional style “Cautivo” wines led to a new era for Heredad de Baroja. His wines, especially the newer modern style received instantaneously a lot of praises and accolades from critics and press. Now equipped with state of the art technology in both facilities, the old and the new cellars, will also help to achieve the goal of making about 2 million bottles a year, of which half will be high-end wines ageing between 14 to 36 months depending on the final wines. Rincon de Baroja is part of his fairly new wine selection that includes: Cautum "Alta Expresión", Lar de Paula "Cepas Viejas", Rincon de Baroja CO2, Cautivo Maceración Carbónica.

The 2005 Rincon de Baroja Crianza is is a delicious Tempranillo based wine that offers ample dark fruit quality in an inexpensive package. Aged twelve months in French and American oak, its nose offers soft cherry and vanilla aromas. Smooth and full in the mouth, its rich fruity flavors are supported by fine tannins into an elegant, lingering cedar cherry finish. Enjoy with beef burgers, steaks, lamb and other hearty meats.

2007 Domaine des Terres Falmet Cinsault Vin de Pays d'Oc Languedoc France Suggested retail price $10-$13

Imported by United Estates Wine Imports and Distributed David Bowler in NYC

Domaine des Terres Falmet was established in 1996, in the little village of Cebazan, located southeast of Saint-Chinian (north of Narbonne and west of Beziers). The Domaine encompasses 25 hectares of contiguous vineyard plots planted on hillside with excellent sun exposure. The young and talented Yves Falmet, owner and winemaker, produces this well crafted Cinsault from vines that are more than 50 years old planted on very rocky, clay-limestone soil, so the resulting wine combines, character, length and depth with juicy fruit, mineral and good tannic structure. Moreover, with no filtration or no fining, this wine didn't lose any of its personality or varietal character.

I loved the previous vintage, and think the 2007 Terres Falmet Cinsault follows the same profile, attitude and charm. The robe is clean, bright ruby red with light intensity. The nose is quite expressive and inviting, Garrigues-like with freshly crushed wild red and dark berries aromas, touch floral, earthy and mineral. Overall light to medium bodied, the palate is quite lush with darker berries flavors than the nose, like blackberry, ripe dark cherry and blueberry, nicely lifted by a great acidity which adds balance, freshness and juiciness, especially in the mid-palate. Calling for another glass, the lingering finish is dry and earthy, a touch spicy, with present yet integrated, soft tannins.

Within the next few days, I will add a few more red and white wines that I just bought for the store and that will be perfect for the Winter season. I'll keep you posted soon!

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

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