LeDomduVin: Domaine Georges Lignier et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Combottes 2019

Domaine Georges Lignier et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Combottes 2019

Domaine Georges Lignier is an acclaimed Burgundy estate based in Morey-Saint-Denis. Georges Lignier is a cousin of Hubert Lignier. Their two estates possess comparable vineyard holdings and present some similarities, yet Georges Lignier's wines are often seen as more delicate and nuanced. 

Since 2008, Benoît Stehly, Georges' nephew, has been managing the estate.

George Lignier's esteemed vineyard portfolio includes over a hectare of Clos de la Roche, a smaller section of Bonnes Mares, and nearly 1.5 hectares (4 acres) of Clos Saint-Denis, making him the largest owner in that vineyard. Overall, there are 16 hectares (40 acres) of vineyards across 17 appellations, divided into 50 parcels.

Winemaking is generally considered traditional. The fruit is harvested slightly later than usual and is usually 80 percent destemmed. Village wines are aged in used oak, premier cru wines incorporate 30 percent new oak, and grand cru wines include about 50 percent new oak. More recent vintages have been bottled without fining or filtration.

This 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Combottes is an elegant and fresh medium-bodied wine. It displays a medium-intensity red ruby color with attractive reflections. The nose is ripe and fresh simultaneously, offering aromas of ripe blackcurrants and dark fruits mingling with floral and earthy nuances. The palate is elegant, medium-bodied yet complex and juicy, with good acidity and present yet integrated tannins, which add freshness and structure. The finish is quite lovely and earthy. Nicely done with a sublime expression of the terroir! 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Champagne Bollinger R.D. 2008. What a mesmerizing champagne!

Champagne Bollinger R.D. 2008

What a mesmerizing champagne!

The history of Champagne Bollinger starts with an unlikely partnership between a French aristocrat, an ambitious German wine merchant, and a passionate local cellar master.

In 1829, Athanase de Villermont, an aristocrat who inherited a vineyard estate in Aÿ but was barred by his noble status from engaging in commercial trade, teamed up with Joseph Bollinger, a German wine merchant who brought his knowledge of international markets, and Paul Renaudin, a local Champagne expert who managed the cellars and winemaking process, to establish the house of Renaudin-Bollinger & Cie, which later became known as Bollinger.

Joseph Bollinger's expertise in international sales and Renaudin's winemaking skills fuelled the company's success, with Bollinger Champagnes becoming highly sought after by European royalty.

The following decades saw the expansion of the estate and the vineyards.

In 1837, Joseph Bollinger married Louise-Charlotte, Athanase’s daughter. His sons, Joseph and later Georges, eventually took over the business. Under their leadership, Bollinger gained fame and significantly expanded its vineyards.

In 1863, Phylloxera was first recorded in France. This pest devastated most wine regions until the early 20th century. Georges Bollinger led the effort to replant vineyards with American rootstocks to combat the phylloxera pest.

In 1920, Jacques Bollinger, Georges’ son, took over managing the family business and is credited with increasing Bollinger’s sales in England, primarily through the popularity of their Special Cuvée Brut. Jacques's wife, Elisabeth Bollinger, better known as “Madame Jacques,” stepped in to run the business after her husband died during World War II.

In 1950, Claude d’Hautefeuille, the husband of Madame Bollinger's niece, whom she had mentored in the company's operations, became Director and initiated a broad modernization effort that honoured Bollinger’s heritage. Madame Bollinger named him Chairman in 1971, but she stayed actively involved until her passing six years afterward.

In 1978, Christian Bizot, Madame Bollinger’s nephew, succeeded Claude as head of the House. An avid traveler, he actively engaged with sommeliers, restaurant owners, and wine merchants to share and promote the House’s wines during his journeys.

In 1994, Ghislain de Montgolfier, the great-great-grandson of founder Joseph Bollinger, became head of the House. He continued to strive to increase quality, in part by limiting production.

In 2008, Jérôme Philipon, a native of Champagne, was appointed as the new Chairman. Unusually, for the first time in the House's history, someone outside the family took on this role.

In 2017, Jérôme Philipon was appointed Deputy Chief Executive Officer of the family holding, and Charles-Armand de Belenet became General Manager of Champagne Bollinger. He is responsible for maintaining traditional craftsmanship while integrating the latest technologies.

Over the years, Bollinger has established its vineyards in the heart of the finest crus of Champagne. Champagne Bollinger’s 180 hectares of vines consist of 85% Grand and Premier crus, managed by their teams of growers across seven separate vineyards: Aÿ, Avenay, Tauxières, Louvois, and Verzenay for Pinot Noir; around the Montagne de Reims; Cuis for Chardonnay on the Côte des Blancs; and Champvoisy for Meunier in the Vallée de la Marne.

Another distinctive feature of Bollinger is the presence of two plots, Clos Saint-Jacques and Chaudes Terres, which have never been affected by phylloxera. These ungrafted vines are carefully maintained by hand and propagated through a layering method known as provignage. This approach helps preserve this remarkable heritage, which is used to produce the highly exclusive cuvée “Vieilles Vignes Françaises”.

The idea behind what would become “Bollinger R.D.” (which stands for “Récemment Dégorgé” in French, meaning "recently disgorged") was conceived in 1963. Madame Bollinger, along with her American agent, decided to sell a few bottles of “Réserve 1947”. 

Although they believed all their champagnes were of high quality and saw no need for a Special or Prestige cuvée, other Champagne houses had such offerings. Therefore, the goal was to compete with the “bouteilles spéciales” or “prestige cuvées” of other Champagne houses.

Madame Bollinger’s brilliant idea was to select an old vintage that was recently disgorged and dosed like an Extra Brut. The recent disgorgement ensures the wine's exceptional freshness and complexity.

In 1967, after some hesitation over the definitive name for the cuvée, Bollinger R.D. (Recently Disgorged) was finally chosen. Three vintages were released simultaneously: 1952 in the English market, 1953 in Switzerland and France, and 1955 in the United States and Italy. It was this vintage, followed by 1959, that established the cuvée's truly international reputation. And the rest is history!

Label of Champagne Bollinger R.D. 2008 (disgorged on October 28th, 2022) (*)

 

Champagne Bollinger R.D. 2008 Extra Brut (Disgorged December 9th, 2022) 

Bollinger R.D. Extra Brut 2008 is a beautiful vintage champagne with exceptional quality and complexity. It is a blend of 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay, from a total of 18 crus, mostly Aÿ and Verzenay for Pinot Noir and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Cramant for Chardonnay. The fermentation occurred entirely in oak barrels. It was aged for about 14 years on its lees and released with a very low dosage at just 3 grams per litre (Extra Brut). The result is flamboyant, vibrant, flavorful, layered, rich, complex, ample, and structured, enhanced with great acidity, and developing brilliantly from the attack to the long, lingering finish. Loved it. 

This champagne is as mesmerizing as looking at the labels with these golden reflections, which I captured in the picture I've put as a header for this post. 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom 

(*) NB: I could not find the label of the Cuvée disgorged on December 09, 2022, like in my picture. So, I put this one, disgorged on October 28th, 2022. Some larger formats, magnum and double-magnum, have been disgorged on November 17th, 2022. 

Sources: Info mostly taken and edited by and for www.ledomduvin.com courtesy of https://www.champagne-bollinger.com/en

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LeDomduVin: Graham's LBV Port 2017 + Cuban Cigar

Graham's LBV Port 2017 + Cuban Cigar

What better idea than going to smoke a cigar with some port at @bertie.hk after dinner to celebrate a reunion with an old friend after not seeing each other for nearly a decade? 

Nothing! So that's what we did! 😁👍🍷 

The night began in a cocktail bar, @tellcamellia, a pretty standard place to go when you're with a renowned mixologist like @ericfossard. Nice place if you like enjoyable tea-based cocktails. 

Then we went to eat in a Korean restaurant at @jeonpo_meatshop. It was really fresh and tasty. 

And we ended up at @bertie.hk Cigar Club to smoke a recently rolled Torpedo Cuban cigar (@partagas_cigars, I believe).

It was great to catch up with my old friend Eric. The opportunities to see each other have been rare over the past 15-20 years, as we are on opposite sides of the world from each other.  He is based in France but travels all around the world, and I'm based in Hong Kong and rarely go back to France. That is why each meeting is precious, and good food, good cocktails, port, and cigars make for great memories and souvenirs.     

The aspect of the cigar was stunning: light wrapper, perfectly rolled, integrated veins, no nots or tightness, ideally moist. Apparently rolled by a retired old professional roller lady from Cuba, exclusively for Bertie HK. The cigar was delightful, fresh, and flavorful, medium-bodied yet rich and aromatic, making it very easy to smoke due to its perfect draw. Loved it. 

We paired it with a half-bottle of Graham's LBV Port 2017. Spawned from an exceptional vintage and matured for 5 years in oak, this is a delightful late bottled vintage port, with intense and concentrated flavors and a firm tannic structure, reflecting the ideal hot and dry growing season of 2017. It boasted ripe black fruit flavors, notes of kirsch and bitter chocolate, mingling with floral and herbal nuances that expanded nicely throughout the mid-palate and lingered in the finish. Loved it. 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

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LeDomduVin: What’s up with the world?

 

Image courtesy of Animeandmore at redbubble.com edited by and for ledomduvin.com

What’s up with the world?

And I'm not talking about our planet Earth, I'm talking about us, humans. And I'm asking myself some basic but pertinent questions: Has the human world become more complicated, or did people become dumber, or am I getting too old? Probably all the above.

I mean, stop what you're doing for a minute, put your phone back in your pocket, and take the time to look around you for a minute or so. What do you see?  

Good attitude and politeness no longer exist. People no longer know how to speak intelligently or adequately, or even how to communicate with each other. Common sense and logic are neither common nor logical. Nothing makes much sense anymore, and everything seems controversial. There is no right or wrong; only the opinions of the strongest or the loudest matter, no matter whether it is true or false.  

People are in total denial. They no longer assume their words or actions. What was acceptable yesterday is no longer acceptable today. You have to be careful about what you say and how you say it, as anything can be used against you. What was previously free or came for free yesterday is no longer free today. For everything you previously wanted that was included in the price, you now need to subscribe and pay more to access it.

For everything that used to involve human skill and knowledge, time, and manual labor, the solution of automating and robotizing was supposed to reduce time, labor, and cost. Yet, it now costs even more than ever before. Worse still, it is nearly impossible to do things yourself anymore, such as repairing your car, etc...

And every day, examples of human stupidity and foolishness are so numerous that they have become the norm. And it no longer shocks anyone. Worse still, they have become so accustomed to it that people have incorporated it into their daily lives.

Stupidity is everywhere, and it no longer bothers anyone because most people themselves are oblivious to others and numb from their addiction to cell phones, apps, games, and social media.

The result: people no longer know how to speak, think, exchange, interact, or react with each other. No more critical thinking either. They no longer communicate, intimately, personally, or even professionally, living as if they were alone in the world, trapped in their own bubble, primarily interacting with a screen 24/7. Consequently, they have lost all sense of emotions, sensibility, sociability, social behaviors and attitudes, as well as their awareness of reality and their surroundings.

Most people are in a state of loneliness accompanied by solitude and depression, as they isolate themselves from the rest of the world, in their own heads, at work, at home, even when with family and friends. Most people now suffer from attention disorder, short attention span, difficulties concentrating, and even finishing daily targets and goals at work and in their own lives.

There is no longer any personal or social discipline. People do what they want and how they want (which is a good thing in a way), but unfortunately, they often fail to consider the responsibilities or the consequences of their thoughts and actions on others.

We can see it every day. The way people walk down the street, for example, without looking, without paying attention, glaring at their phones, often with a detached, nonchalant, even careless attitude, or, on the contrary, an angry, provocative, even aggressive attitude.

Gradually, over the last 15-20 years, and especially in the past 10 years, we have become a "zombie society" due to cell phone addiction, where people have become so engrossed in their smartphones that they appear detached, disengaged, and even unaware of their surroundings, much like zombies. This is fueled by the addictive nature of social media, mobile games, and constant connectivity offered by smartphones. Beware of smartphone zombies!

This world is definitely not the same one as the one I grew up in, back 40 to 50 years ago. In a way, yes, it was better before. Life was simpler and easier in so many ways. People still knew how to talk and communicate with each other, appreciate one another, be more respectful, and spend time together. No phones, no social media, no easy access to information and news, so less stress, less anxiety, and less time alone. 

It was a world where we were freer, with no real dependence or addiction on anything or anyone. Of course, this world had its share of problems as well (financial, economic, geopolitical, war, famine, violence, drugs, and alcohol, among others). Similar to nowadays. Yet, it seems different back then. 

It was a world where we could still think, speak, act, react, and share opinions with critical thinking, common sense, and adequate social behaviors, without immediately creating an argument or a quarrel, a fight, or worse. I mean, sure, violence and insecurity existed back then, too. But not at the current level, it seems. 

Moreover, it was a world where we could still laugh at anything and anyone without fear of hurting someone else or being judged or ridiculed on Social Media. A world where we were dancing and singing and acting the way we wanted, without care of being caught or judged, because, as we say in French, "Le ridicule ne tue pas!" (ridicule doesn't kill). Where did all these go? Nowadays, everything is recorded, one way or another, and posted on social media or other platforms, resulting in a deluge of nasty comments from anonymous people acting behind their screens.   

And yes, although I embrace the future, the changes that come with each generations, and the advance of techniques and technologies, and try to live my life in the present, I’m still nostalgic about this past where everyone had to use their brains, intelligence, skills, know-how, imagination, creativity, and ambition to reach and concretise their dreams. 

Not like nowadays, where everything and anything is accessible to everyone and anyone, and is as easy as a simple “cut and paste” or a "prompt". Worse still, nowadays, computer algorithms and artificial intelligence are doing pretty much everything for you, without you having to do anything. Where is the fun in that? 

It takes away your cognition, referring to the mental processes involved in acquiring knowledge and understanding through thoughts, experiences, and the senses. It gradually erases a wide range of your abilities, like thinking, learning, remembering, perceiving, and using judgment. It annihilates the way you process information and interact with the world around you. It inhibits your cognitive faculties, encompassing the mental processes of thinking, learning, and understanding. It essentially prevents your ability to process information, form concepts, have discernment, make decisions, and make judgments.  

That's why many of us, especially those between 45 and 55 years old, around my age, are so nostalgic about that time, growing up in the 1970s, 80s, and 90s. And I don't think that we are the only ones. Even younger generations, who did not live through these decades, are somewhat searching to revisit or even recreate these years.  

I see it with the generation of my kids, Gen Z. They are trying to go back in time: clothes, music, fashions, modes, cars, even games, movies, and TV shows. Why? Because it was more authentic, more real, more "analog" as we say, less "digital" or "virtual". It had more energy, vibrancy, and depth. It had more meaning. It was real and happening in real life, with real people and real characters who made mistakes and had flaws. It was more human, less computerized. It was not a perfect world, and it was not trying to be either.  

The latest trend I've noticed on social media is a return to the past. Dressing like in the 90s. Having cellphones that are not smartphones, for the convenience of making and receiving calls and messages without the distractions of other apps. Use an MP3 music player instead of relying on apps on their phone. Listening to more analog sounds with vinyls and even cassettes. Taking pictures with old cameras, which use mirrors and film rather than digital cameras, because they offer a more natural and distinct experience compared to using digital cameras nowadays, which are often automatically enhanced with AI and rarely deliver the desired results, etc. 

Not everything was easier back then, but some things definitely were. As we say in French: "C'etait le temps de l'insouciance!" A time of carefree happiness. A period of my youth, from my childhood to my young adult years. A state of mind characterized by a lack of worry and a joyful, lighthearted attitude. Those were good times! From which I still cherish many memories (and try to recall only the best ones).   

That said, I could continue writing many pages on the subject, but I will stop here for today, as I do not want to burden you further with these things that you can also observe in your everyday life. 

To resume and answer the questions in the header of this post, I would like to say: Yes, the world is more complicated and complex than it was before during my youth. Yes, in my opinion, people are getting dumber, and I witness it countless times every day. And, yes, I'm getting old too, as I rant about the state of the world today and feel nostalgic about a past that will soon be history. The world is changing from one generation to the next; that's just the natural path of life and the passage of time.  

As long as we make the best of it while living it, the rest does not matter!       

Cheers! Santé!

Dom 

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LeDomduVin: Underestimated Vieux Château Certan Pomerol 2014

Underestimated Vieux Château Certan 

Pomerol 2014

Why underestimated? VCC 2014 now delivers more than it did a few years ago since its release. And that’s often the case for lesser Bordeaux vintages. 

The 2014 vintage experienced a challenging growing season, characterized by a mild winter and a summer that alternated between heat spikes and periods of cool, rainy weather. Consequently, the vintage is known for its uneven quality, with some estates producing some good wines while others struggled. 

As they like to say in Bordeaux, the resulting wines are more “traditional”, more “classic”, meaning that they are usually a bit more austere, leaner, and offering less complexity, texture, substance, and structure than celebrated vintages such as 2000, 2005, 2009, 2010, 2015, 2016, etc… 

 

I’m usually the first to be hesitant about buying lesser Bordeaux vintages. As a Sommelier and Wine Buyer, I mostly purchase good to outstanding vintages in search of the “Wow!” factor and immediate customer satisfaction, rather than spending time explaining to my customers why a lesser vintage can also be good, considering blah, blah, blah.

Moreover, most restaurants and sommeliers offer lesser vintages on their wine lists to capitalize on the name and give customers the impression that they are buying a good wine, while it is a lesser vintage.

This allows them to increase the margin and maximize profit, despite the wine not being of high quality. Yet, because it is a well-recognized brand, people easily fall into the trap. 

Recently, I noticed that some wine lists are selling Bordeaux 2011, 2013, and 2017, which are average vintages, at prices comparable to those of better vintages. It is a scam.

I have never done that in my entire 33-year career, and I have always refused to do it; it gives a bad image and reputation to both the restaurant and the Sommelier.

Yet, I’m also the first to be willing to retry lesser vintages a few years later to check on their evolution and whether their taste has improved for the better. This is the case for the Vieux Chateau Certan 2014.  

Although Vieux Chateau Certan is one of my favorite Bordeaux wines, and I have always been pleased with most vintages I've tasted, I admit that I was not very fond of the 2014 vintage when I tasted it a few years ago. I found it hard and dry, austere and tannic, and closed.  

Yet, I decided to give it another chance a few weeks ago by selecting it for a private dinner, and I was both pleasantly surprised and satisfied. It was a gamble, as I hadn't tasted it in a few years, and it could have turned out worse. 

Yet, it is rarely the case with Vieux Chateau Certan, as it is one of those wines that usually improves with time and rewards those patient enough to wait for it (like Haut-Brion, which is another favorite of mine and an excellent example of a wine with outstanding ageing potential that develops for the better with time).    

Moreover, a Sommelier/Wine Buyer needs to taste and re-taste lesser vintages, not only to check the evolution of the wine, but also to eliminate their "a priori" expectations about the wine, especially if it has improved. One has to admit when they are wrong. Only idiots don't change their minds and stick stubbornly to their preconceived ideas. How can you assume a lesser vintage wine has not evolved and remained the same if you haven't tried it again? 

It is perhaps a characteristic of Bordeaux wines, but even lesser vintages can improve with age and become surprisingly good after a few years, making them worth revisiting.    

Vieux Château Certan Pomerol Bordeaux 2014

The estate's history begins with the Demay family, who were wine merchants in Bordeaux. Early records indicate that the property has been in existence since at least the mid-1700s. The wines were initially sold under the name Sertani.

The estate's name changed over time, and by the late 18th century, it was listed as "Sertan" on the Belleyme Map. In the 19th century, Charles de Bousquet, a banker, bought the estate and led major renovations, including the construction of the iconic tower, which became a symbol of its prominence.

In 1924, Georges Thienpont, a Belgian wine merchant, purchased Vieux Château Certan. The Thienpont family has remained the owners ever since, with Alexandre Thienpont currently managing the estate. In 1979, Marcel and Gérard Thienpont, part of the family, founded the nearby micro-cuvée estate, Château Le Pin.

I had the opportunity to meet Alexandre Thienpont and visit the estate, as well as taste the wines, during the En Primeur campaigns in the mid-to-late-2000s.

In France, it is often said that the wine resembles its maker, and that is precisely the case for Vieux Château Certan. Alexandre Thienpont is a bright, intelligent, highly knowledgeable, and skilled individual. Yet, he is a gentle, timid, and reserved person who only warms up and becomes much more approachable and personable when he feels comfortable with you.

Vieux Chateau Certan is the same, especially in lesser vintages; it needs time to develop and adapt to the environment and service conditions before delivering its full potential. Once opened, it is a suave and silky wine, rich, layered, and complex, precise and focused, almost intellectual, with excellent balance, texture, and structure. I love it.

The 14-acre vineyard is planted with a mix of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and a small percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon, a classic blend of Pomerol. The estate's winemaking practices emphasize careful attention to detail and a focus on achieving optimal ripeness and balance in the grapes.

Vieux Château Certan is recognized as one of Pomerol's oldest and most esteemed estates, producing wines renowned for their elegance, complexity, and exceptional aging potential.

 

A blend of 80% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon, Vieux Château Certan 2014 showcases a beautiful interplay of freshness and fruit character. Surprisingly, it is now much more open than it was a few years ago. It offers exquisite aromas of blackberry and wild strawberry, mingling with floral and stony nuances, as well as earthy notes of rose petals, clove, and truffle. The palate is medium-bodied, with crisp acidity and fine tannins (more integrated than in recent years), offering a slightly masculine yet sophisticated character. Linear and precise, with a harmonious balance between freshness and roundness, while possessing excellent texture and structure. The finish is lingering and mineral-driven, with that "je ne sais quoi" of earthy energy characteristic of VCC wines. Love it. 

While enjoyable now, it might improve even more with further aging. I will definitely revisit it in a few years to see if I was right.   

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Classics in my book!

Classics in my book!

Mise en place for dinner, these have been staples in my recent selections. Love them all! 

The other day, I served the following wines for a private dinner, and they showed beautifully.   

I titled this post "Classics in my book!" because, over the past 2-3 years, I've had the pleasure of serving these wines numerous times. Moreover, they are classics of their appellations, too.  

Dom Perignon "Plenitude 2" is always a good reference in Champagne, and although the vintage 2003 is not my favorite, it still remains a very good champagne.  

For Fontaine-Gagnard, I was talking with a fellow sommelier who told me that, for him, it’s a producer he likes to include on his wine list but wouldn’t buy for his own consumption. He said that he found the style too classic, Burgundy. Well, it's fine, why not? 

Yet, I replied that this is precisely why I love Fontaine-Gagnard. Their wines are always very approachable and well-balanced. Not too extracted, with a good amount of oak but not overly oaked, fruit-forward but not overripe, and usually enhanced by excellent acidity and minerality. This makes them very accessible and enjoyable to drink, and easy to pair with food.  

As for Perrot-Minot NSG 1er Cru "La Richemone", it is a beautiful wine, more modern in style than the classic Nuits-Saint-Georges, complex, rich and ample, yet soft and silky, with a gentle texture expanding nicely in the palate toward the long velvety finish.    

Out of the 4 prepared wines, I only opened 3. I always come ready with an extra bottle, as you never know. Yet, that night, we didn't need it. Shame, as I would have loved to open this bottle of Chateau Haut-Brion 2008.  

Dom Perignon "Plénitude 2" Champagne Brut Vintage 2003

DP P2 2003 is a rich champagne that lacks some acidity and minerality, resulting in a less bright and somewhat flabby profile. It is not bad, but it unfortunately reflects the poor quality of the 2003 vintage, which was affected by a significant heat wave during the summer months. It was deemed the hottest summer recorded in Europe since at least 1540. Consequently, the resulting champagne shows taste, texture, and structure unworthy of the price and usual quality of "Plenitude 2" (IMO). And I usually love P2, it is consistently one of my go-to Champagnes when I make a selection for a dinner, but this vintage was pretty disappointing.  Too bad.   

Fontaine-Gagnard Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru Burgundy 2020

A classic in my book, because the few bottles I recently opened were stunning, despite being a bit light, but still delightful, and this one was too. 

Beyond its pale yellow color, the nose was light, fresh, elegant, mineral, zesty, and citrusy. At first, slightly restrained, the palate slowly opened, revealing a fresh, dry, mineral texture, good density, lots of lemony flavors, sharp acidity, and lightly toasted, oaky nuances. Delightful, even if a bit light to my palate for a Batard-Montrachet. I would have loved to see a bit more substance and depth. Yet, it might benefit from a few more years in the cellar. 

As my colleague Sommelier said that night, Fontaine-Gagnard is usually a more classic style of Burgundy. And, in fact, that's what I like about Fontaine-Gagnard: it is never over-the-top, but consistently well-crafted and balanced. It is neither too light nor too heavy, neither overripe nor overextracted, with enjoyable oak ageing nuances, but not overly oaky, toasted, or buttery either.     

Perrot-Minot Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru "La Richemone" Vignes Centenaires Burgundy 2018

With only 2,551 bottles produced, it is a rare wine, and I was fortunate to find nine bottles of it a few years ago.  I bought them right away, as this is a delicious, forward, ample, rich, complex, and enticing wine.  For a wine made from century-old vines, it exhibits a remarkably modern, youthful, and fruit-forward palate, with a reasonably long finish. Dark cherry and raspberry aromas mingling with warm, earthy, and oaky nuances. I love it. A must-try for those who have never done it before.           

The only problem is that I opened it about 1 hour before serving it and realized it did not need that long, as it tamed down and was much less expressive than right after the opening. Opening it 15 minutes before serving it should have sufficed, as it would have opened up in the glass anyway. Lesson learnt the hard way. Fortunately, I have the principle of never decanting Burgundy wines; otherwise, too much air might have damaged it even more. 

Chateau Haut-Brion Premier Grand Cru Classé Péssac-Léognan Bordeaux 2008

Although I did not open that bottle for dinner that night, Haut-Brion 2008 is a beautiful wine that has aged gracefully and is even better now than it was 10 years ago. I will describe it the next time I have an opportunity to taste and serve it.    

Cheers! Santé!

Dom 

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #wine #vin #vino #wein @domperignonofficial #domperignon #plenitude @celinefontainegagnard #fontainegagnard #batardmontrachet @domaineperrotminot #perrotminot #nuitssaintgeorges #larichemone #vignescentenaires @chateauhautbrion_ #hautbrion #pessacleognan #bordeaux #miseenplace #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife #ilovemyjob #lovewine 

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LeDomduVin: Thank you to all of you !!! - LeDomduVin is number 93 on FeedSpot's 100 Best Wine Blogs 2025

 

Screenshot courtesy of https://bloggers.feedspot.com/wine_blogs/

Thank you to all of you !!! 

LeDomduVin is number 93 on 

FeedSpot's 100 Best Wine Blogs 2025

As I do once a year, I just checked the position of my wine blog among the various listings of the best wine blogs on the internet, and I just realized that I was back in the Top 100 Best Wine Blogs on FeedSpot, ranking at 93, which is fantastic.  

Over the past few years, LeDomduVin.com has attracted a lot of attention, and the number of readers has increased significantly. A few weeks ago, my blog exceeded an impressive 45,000 views per week. And now, I am back in the Top 100 on the FeedSpot list. 

That's amazing, and it's all because of you, my readers. I cannot thank you enough for your support and the motivation it provides me to continue writing and sharing my passion and knowledge about wine with all of you. So, for that, THANK YOU to YOU ALL !!!  You are truly amazing! 

FeedSpot's 100 Best Wine Blogs are selected from thousands of online blogs and ranked by relevance, authority, social media followers, and freshness. It means the world to me to be included in this list, as I have dedicated my heart and effort to this blog for the past 17 years. 

The ranking of these 100 Best Wine Blogs is updated regularly and therefore fluctuates frequently. That means if I check again in a few weeks, the ranking might have changed to 95 or 75, who knows? 

Yet, today my ranking is 93, and I am really happy about it. Especially since I am just a humble, old sommelier and wine buyer, not a wine personality, critic, winemaker, magazine, importer/distributor, etc., like most of the other people on that list who are well-known and well-regarded figures in the wine world.   

My blog is my hobby because I love wine and enjoy writing about it. I write only when I have free time, occasionally and sporadically. Seeing that it can attract so much interest from all of you makes my blog and its success even more meaningful to me. 

So, again, THANK YOU ALL !!! for your interest in my blog and for taking the time to read my posts, you've made my day! Merci!

And thank you to FeedSpot, too! 

Cheers! Sante!

Dom (aka LeDomduVin aka Dominique Noel)     

If you're interested in checking who's on that list, here is the link to FeedSpot's Top 100 Wine Blogs 2025:  https://bloggers.feedspot.com/wine_blogs/ 

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #wine #vin #vino #wein #thankyou #merci @feedspot @feedspotdotcom #feedspot #bestwineblogs #top100bestwineblogs #wineblogslist #blogger #wineblog #wineblogger #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife #ilovemyjob #lovewine

Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2025, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).

LeDomduVin: Chateau Haut-Bailly Pessac-Leognan Bordeaux 2010

 

Chateau Haut-Bailly Pessac-Léognan 

Bordeaux 2010 

I remember when Château Haut-Bailly was purchased by Robert (Bob) G. Wilmers in 1998. 

I was a young sommelier newly arrived in London. I read in the specialized press that Jean Sanders, the grandfather of Véronique Sanders, had sold Haut-Bailly to the Wilmers, a Francophile American banker and his French wife, who entrusted Jean and Véronique with managing the property. 

Daniel Sanders, from Lille and of Belgian descent, purchased the Chateau in 1955. His son, Jean Sanders, took over in 1979, and his granddaughter, Veronique Sanders, joined Haut-Bailly in 1997. In 2000, Veronique became the CEO of Haut-Bailly after her grandfather Jean Sanders retired.   

Although Haut-Bailly was well regarded in the late 1990s and early 2000s, it was not fully leveraging its potential and needed a renaissance. This purchase, along with improvements in winemaking practices and a renewed focus on quality at the estate, combined with Bob's 'spare no expenses' mentality and Veronique's vision, dedication, and ambitions, are often cited as the main reasons for its revival, increased recognition, and popularity. 

In the early 2000s, Château Haut-Bailly underwent a complete renovation and modernization of its cellars. This project was part of a broader effort to improve the quality of their wines after the estate was purchased by Robert G. Wilmers (known as Bob). The cellar upgrades were made to help produce the best wines possible. 

The cellar restoration was accompanied by significant changes to the vineyard. These involved green harvesting to remove underripe grapes and multiple harvesting passes to achieve optimal ripeness. Oenologist Gabriel Vialard joined the team in 2002 to further enhance the winemaking process. 

At that time, I had never visited Haut-Bailly, but I was familiar with the wine, having purchased and sold numerous bottles in various restaurants where I worked in France (1992-1997) and London (1997-2002). Since I loved their wine, I had always promised myself I would pay them a visit someday. 

In 2002, after five incredible years in London, I moved to New York and began working at www.PJWine.com, owned by Peter Yi, one of the largest and most successful wine and spirits retail stores in Manhattan at the time. 

Peter enjoyed traveling to Bordeaux and Spain every year for about 10-12 days (about 7-8 days in Bordeaux + 3-4 days in Spain) during the "En Primeur" period (around mid-April), with part of his team, to taste wines and plan future purchases. 

For five years, from 2002 to 2007, I planned and scheduled these trips in advance by booking visits to the châteaux, making appointments with various négociants, as well as participating to most of the "En Primeur" tastings, such as the "Cru Bourgeois" and the prestigious "Union des Grands Crus" (including booking all the hotels and restaurants in the various appelations and regions we visited). 

Besides working as a wine consultant (then wine director) and one of the wine buyers at his retail store and for the website, I also served as a PA and chauffeur during our travels. Every day, I drove the team from 8am until late at night, visiting 2-3 châteaux in the morning, then having lunch at a restaurant, a château, or with a négociant. The afternoons included more château visits or tastings, and we ended the day with dinner at a restaurant, a château, or with a négociant. Afterwards, we returned to our hotel or the château hosting us, such as Pichon Baron, where we had the opportunity to stay several years in a row. These were full days with busy schedules, as Peter aimed to maximize each day.  

It was a tough job, with extended hours, seven days a week, but it was worth it, and I loved every minute of it. Because, besides tasting, buying, and selling some of the most prestigious wines in the world, who wouldn't enjoy traveling to regions where they're produced to taste them at the property with the owners and/or the winemakers and having lunch and dinner at some of the best Chateaux and restaurants in Bordeaux, the Basque region, and Spain? 

I will always be grateful to Peter Yi, as he offered me the opportunity to do all that and so much more. Interestingly, we both had a certain character and often clashed. He, being Korean American, and I, being French and very opinionated, I guess he saw me as arrogant and annoying. 😅😅😅

And yet, he appreciated the job I was doing for him and saw added value in me. And although he told me every day that he would fire me, he kept me by his side and under his wing for five years. It was more like one of those love-hate relationships between employer and employee, and it always ended with sharing some food and a glass of wine and laughing with the rest of the team at the back of the store. 😉👍🍷    

In April 2003, we took our first trip together as a team to Bordeaux. Every day, we had a full schedule visiting properties in various appellations. For Pessac-Leognan, aside from Châteaux such as Haut-Brion, Pape Clément, Carbonnieux, Smith-Haut-Lafitte, and Domaine de Chevalier, I had also arranged a visit to Château Haut-Bailly. 

It was a beautiful day. We were driving around Pessac-Leognan after visiting a few other Châteaux in the area when we finally arrived at Château Haut-Bailly. 

We were greeted by Véronique Sanders and Robert G. Wilmers, who were having a conversation near the Chateau entrance. Véronique showed us around the property and the cellar before guiding us into a small room by the cellar to taste the wines, the Grand Vin "Chateau Haut-Bailly" and the 2nd wine "La Parde de Haut-Bailly."    

While tasting the wines, we asked her a few questions about the differences and transition between her family and Bob Wilmers, who now owned the estate. She told us she was heartbroken at first when her grandfather decided to sell the property. Yet, she was also very excited and pleased, as the purchase had brought about changes, new perspectives, and improved practices in vineyard and cellar management, along with all the benefits that came with them. It was a change for the better.  

Appointed as CEO a few years earlier, both the estate and Véronique were in capable hands, looking toward a bright future. It's never easy to work with new owners when it was once your family property. Still, Bob was dedicated and passionate, and by keeping Véronique on his team, he preserved part of the family history and legacy.       

We were tasting "barrel samples" of the 2002 vintage, a difficult vintage often referred to as "classic" or "traditional," as they say in Bordeaux. In fact, it was definitely not one of the best. The wines we tasted so far were lean and often showed underripeness, high acidity, and green, astringent tannins. Although some good wines were made in the Médoc, most of the wines from Pessac-Léognan, and especially the Merlot-based wines of the Right Bank, showed less body, less substance, and more greenness.     

That said, I was surprised by the fleshiness and juiciness of the 2002 Haut-Bailly wines we were tasting, especially considering the high percentage of Merlot in the blend (35%) of the Grand Vin. 

Were the barrel samples selected for the "En Primeur" based on their quality rather than being truly representative of the vintage? (as it was common practice back then, but then again, there's nothing wrong with showing the best samples when presenting your wine to buyers from around the world to ensure sales during the "En Primeur" tasting...) 

Or was it because we were tasting them at the property, which usually imparts or even influences your judgment on the true quality of the wine? (difficult to criticize a wine when in the presence of the owner or the winemaker...)

I couldn't say... However, these were good compared to many of the other wines we tasted during that trip. In the end, it made that visit to Haut-Bailly even more memorable. And we ended up buying quite a few cases "En Primeur".   

In the following years, we visited Haut-Bailly several times during the En Primeur, always with the same enthusiasm. We were consistently welcomed by Veronique or Gabriel Vialard. We truly witnessed the wines and the estate improve from one year to the next.  

In 2007, after five great years where I learned much more than I expected, I left PJWine.com and Peter Yi to work for a smaller store in Brooklyn Heights called "Heights Chateau" to slow down the pace and have more time for my family, especially since my son was only one year old and I wanted to spend more time with him. 

Since my last visit to Haut-Bailly in the mid-2000s, I haven't had the chance to return there for various reasons. However, over the years, I was able to continue witnessing the evolution of Haut-Bailly through the "Union des Grands Crus" (UGCB) tastings.  

In 2011, I moved to Hong Kong, where I continued sourcing, buying, tasting, and serving Haut-Bailly, as it became a staple of my selections over time. I also continue to taste it every year at the UGCB tastings.  

In 2012, Robert G. Wilmers acquired the neighboring property, Chateau Le Pape, also located within the Pessac-Leognan appellation.  

In July 2017, an ambitious project for a new cellar, designed by architect Daniel Romeo, was presented to Bob Wilmers, who approved it immediately. Unfortunately, Bob passed away in December of that same year, and his son, Chris, inherited the property. The project commenced in 2018 and was completed within two years (by the end of 2020).   

In 2021, the new cellar was inaugurated. A state-of-the-art facility that blends seamlessly with the surrounding landscape. It features a curved, streamlined design with a suspended garden and has received excellent HQE certification for its environmental sustainability. The cellar utilizes high-precision technical equipment and is designed to adapt to climate change, allowing for more precise and elegant winemaking. It marked a new era, enabling them to make even better wines than before. 

In 2022, the vineyards expanded in size following the merger of the vines from Château Le Pape into Château Haut-Bailly, making 2021 the last vintage produced under the Château Le Pape label.  

Today, Chris Wilmers and Veronique Sanders continue to focus on making the finest wine possible at Chateau Haut-Bailly, which is regarded as one of the best in its appellation and in Bordeaux overall.  

Chateau Haut-Bailly Pessac-Leognan Bordeaux 2010

A blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc, Haut-Bailly 2010 remains vibrant and lively even after 15 years, and is likely to continue doing so for many more years to come. The 2010 vintage in Bordeaux was a promise of quality and concentration, thanks to July, which was hot and sunny, resulting in water stress that halted plant growth and led to better concentration and ripeness in smaller grapes. The contrasting cool night brought balance and freshness. Attentive winemaking, including precise harvesting and gentle extraction with controlled fermentation temperatures (around 26°C to prevent high alcohol content), was key to producing an exceptional wine.  

The resulting wine is quite dense, rich, and even powerful, with good ageing potential still remaining. Beyond its dark, opaque color, it offers enticing notes of dark fruit and blackberry, mingling with secondary and tertiary aromas. The palate is condensed and textured, with a complex structure, enhanced by enough acidity to keep it fresh and balanced. The finish is long, generous, and earthy. What a wine!  

I was hesitant to decant it that night for that dinner, but I should have as it would have undoubtedly benefited from it. Fortunately, I opened it more than an hour before serving it. 

My advice: buy a few bottles, drink one now to taste it, and keep the others in your cellar for a while, if you have the patience to do so. 😄👍🍷 

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #wine #vin #vino #wein @chateauhautbailly #hautbailly #pessacleognan #bordeaux #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife #tastingnotes #ilovemyjob #lovewine

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LeDomduVin: A HUGE THANK YOU for 45,000+ views in the last 7 days

A HUGE THANK YOU 

for 45,000+ views in the last 7 days

Every now and then, I like to thank all my readers because you are the fuel of my inspiration and the motivation to keep writing on this blog and across various social media platforms. You are amazing, and today even better than ever before.  

I became a Wine Blogger when I started this blog 17 years ago, in 2008, with no expectations, simply to share my knowledge and passion for wine with the world. 

Initially, I was content with having only a few dozen views a week. Then, in about 5 years, the number grew to a few hundred, which was already extraordinary for me, as I'm just an unknown Sommelier and Wine Buyer, not a public figure and not even an influencer (as we say nowadays). 

After about 9 years, the number of views continued to grow, reaching a few thousand per week. This was unexpected yet so satisfying. And in November 2017, it reached the stratospheric number of 17,500+ views per week.  I was speechless.   

Last year, this number often exceeded 20,000 views per week. My happiness was indescribable.  

This year, the number of views per week has been oscillating between 20,000 and 35,000, which is both incredible and unbelievable. 

Over the past few weeks, this number has exceeded 40,000 views per week, reaching over 45,000 views...  

This is truly incredible, and I still can't believe it. I can't thank you enough for the attention and dedication you're giving to my blog, and indirectly to me and my writing.  

I have always been very creative since childhood. I loved drawing and creating collages; I also love photography and art in general. I have even been making my own music since 2020 under the alias DOMELGABOR. But the thing I have always been the best at is writing.   

I fell in love with writing early on, first in French and then later in English. I enjoyed inventing and imagining stories, writing them in notebooks. Between the ages of 10 and 18, I wrote about eight books that I never published and have since lost over the years.  

This blog has been (and continues to be) a platform for me to share stories—both true and fictional—about my personal life, my career, wines from around the world, and my experiences as a Sommelier and Wine Buyer over the past 33 years, as well as insights into the world of wine.    

All your views, likes, and comments are sincerely appreciated, and I thank you all for that! You make my day, every day!  

THANK YOU, 45,000 times to all of you! You are truly amazing!

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #wine #vin #vino #wein #thankyou #merci #blog #wineblog #views #viewsperweek #thankyouall #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife #blogger #wineblogger #ilovewine 

Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2025, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).

LeDomduVin: Korean food paired with Burgundy wines

Korean food paired with Burgundy wines

Pairing Korean food and wine can be tricky due to the bold and varied flavors in Korean cuisine, but it's definitely doable. The secret is to select wines that enhance, rather than fight against, the food's qualities and flavors, favoring wines with bright acidity, fruit-forward profiles, and moderate tannins. 

Over time, I have learned that when pairing Korean food with wine, it's better to focus on the main protein or dish rather than the side dishes. Keep the wine versatile enough to simplify the pairing process, rather than trying to find wines that complement every flavor.

Generally, it's better to avoid heavy and tannic red wines, as they can clash with spicy or savory dishes. Choosing lighter-bodied reds with good acidity is usually a safer option. However, most sommeliers and connoisseurs will tell you that dry or slightly off-dry, yet crisp, whites, such as Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling, are generally good choices for spicy dishes. Off-dry wines can be a good match for Korean dishes that have some sweetness or spice.  

Korean dishes often feature a mix of spicy, sweet, salty, and umami flavors, making it challenging to find a single wine that pairs well with all of them. Still, I was up for the challenge and chose Burgundy wines, which generally also pair well with Korean food.  

The host wanted me to serve only red wine, but, as mentioned above, I knew I had to bring some white wine as well, since it's usually better appreciated with Korean food. I usually follow my instincts, and luckily, I did again, as the white wine turned out to be more successful than the red.  

The challenge was to find a fruit-forward white wine with bright acidity and good minerality, complex enough to complement the food without overpowering it. Chassagne-Montrachet came to mind, and given my recent successful pairing experience with the succulent Batard-Montrachet from Fontaine-Gagnard at another event, I decided to opt for their Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets 2020 (one of my favorites from Chassagne), which combines complexity, amplitude, and freshness.   

For the red, I chose a Volnay. Known for its freshness, elegance, delicate character, and moderate tannins, it's often described as a "feminine" wine, especially when compared to the more robust wines of Pommard, its neighbor. Coincidentally, I also brought a Pommard in case the host and his guests found the Volnay too light. 

The wines received praise from the attendees, especially the white wine, which was delightful and paired exceptionally well with the food. My taste buds also confirmed this, as I had the opportunity to sample some of the food in the kitchen, paired with a bit of each wine. Tasting food and wine together is crucial for a sommelier, as it is the only way to develop a refined palate and create palate memories that enhance one's taste, experience, and knowledge. Once again, I was happy and content with the choices I made. 

 

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Caillerets" 2020

Having opened their superb Batard-Montrachet 2020 a few days earlier, I wanted to revisit the experience. However, since Korean food requires more acidity, this Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets 2020 would be an ideal pairing. I hadn't tried it in a while, but knowing the quality of Fontaine-Gagnard's wines and their unmistakable freshness and minerality, I wasn't taking much risk and was confident it would be a hit.   

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard was established in 1985 by Laurence Gagnard, a member of the Gagnard family in Chassagne, and Richard Fontaine. Since 2007, the domaine has been skillfully led by Céline Fontaine, who blends youthful energy and a touch of tradition with the Burgundian legacy established by her parents, creating classic examples of some of Burgundy's most renowned climats. The domaine produces wine from three Grand Crus and twelve different Premier Crus, including iconic parcels such as Le Montrachet, Les Caillerets, and La Romanée.

This Chassagne-Montrachet comes from a 0.56-hectare plot called "Vigne Derriere," which was purchased by Celine's parents in the late 1990s as part of the Premier Cru vineyard "Les Caillerets." The vines, planted between 1962 and 1966 (approximately 60 years old), grow at an altitude of 220 to 325 meters on clay-limestone soils, with optimal southeast sun exposure. The soil in the upper part of the vineyard is very shallow, steep, and dotted with white stones, while the lower part is rich in clay.  

The grapes are hand-harvested. Alcoholic and malolactic fermentations occur directly in barrels for 10-15 days using native yeasts. The wine is then aged for approximately 11 months in new and used barrels, comprising one-third new oak, one-third 2-year-old oak, and one-third 3-year-old oak. Afterward, it is fined (clarified with casein and bentonite) and lightly filtered before bottling. 

The Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets 2020 is a masterpiece of elegance, subtlety, and refined complexity, enhanced by excellent acidity and mineral notes. In the glass, it has a pale straw color with green reflections. The nose is charming and enticing, offering a blend of citrus and stone fruit aromas that mingle with herbal, floral, waxy, and buttery hints. Light to medium-bodied on the palate, it feels incredibly fresh with razor-sharp acidity. The flavors mirror those on the nose—straight, focused, complex, layered, yet light on its feet. It is elegant and graceful like a ballerina, gently expanding toward a long, buttery, mineral finish. I would compare it to a lighter version of their Batard-Montrachet. Celine definitely has the magic touch!      

Domaine Xavier Monnot Volnay 1er Cru "Clos des Chenes" 2021

Xavier Monnot is a notable producer in Meursault, recognized for a winemaking style that highlights purity of fruit, elegance, and complexity. Before releasing the 2005 vintage, the estate was known as Domaine René Monnier, named after Xavier's grandfather. In 2005, with improvements to his vineyard and cellar, Xavier began bottling his wines under his own label. 

Domaine Xavier Monnot is a 42-acre estate in Meursault with vineyards stretching from Beaune to Maranges. Sixty percent of the Domaine's production is white and forty percent red, with several premier cru vineyards in Meursault, Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, Beaune, Volnay, and Maranges. Xavier believes in maintaining an average vine age of 30 to 40 years and practices "lutte raisonnée." (*)

Clos des Chênes is the largest premier cru in Volnay, situated between the premier cru of Taille Pieds and the border of Monthelie. The soil there has a high limestone content, producing wines with a perfumed character, finesse, and generous fruit notes. Half of Xavier Monnot’s 2-acre parcel was planted in 1936, with the other half planted in 1978. The wine is aged for 12 to 14 months in 30-35% new French oak. 

For this event, I chose a Volnay to pair with the Korean food, as Volnay is often described as silky and elegant, with high acidity and moderate tannins. The various premier crus situated south of the village, such as Clos des Chênes, have soil with a high percentage of limestone and exhibit the classic Volnay character of perfume and finesse.

Xavier Monnot Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chenes 2021 is a subtle yet underrated wine. It is generally light to medium-bodied, featuring high acidity, moderate to low alcohol content, and low tannin levels, which make it versatile, easy to enjoy, and suitable for pairing with food. In the glass, it presents a light garnet hue that is clear with medium intensity. Initially shy on the nose, it gradually opened up to reveal aromas of red and dark cherries, complemented by floral, herbal, and peppery notes. On the palate, it is light, fresh, vibrant, crisp, and acidic, while still offering complexity and finesse. After about an hour of airing, it mellowed and became perfectly balanced, complementing food without overpowering it. Strangely enough, this wine was not heavily affected by the oak, as there isn't much wood flavor for a wine aged 12-14 years in oak barrels. Nice wine! (even if a bit light for my taste).  

  

Domaine Nicolas Rossignol Pommard "Les Vignots" 2019

Born in 1974, Nicolas Rossignol is the fifth generation of winemakers in Volnay. He has been producing wine since 1994 at the family estate Rossignol-Jeanniard.

After studying winemaking in high school in Beaune, Nicolas gained experience working at various estates, including Domaine Joseph Voillot in Volnay, Domaine Louis Latour in Ardèche, and Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. He also worked in South Africa at Boschendal in 1995, and then in Bordeaux at Château La Cardonne, managed by Château Lafite Rothschild.

In 1997, he founded his own estate, which started with 3 hectares in the villages of Volnay, Pommard, Beaune, Aloxe-Corton, and Pernand-Vergelesses. By 1998, the estate grew to approximately 16 hectares.

In 2005, he expanded with new appellations: Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Fourneaux and Lavières, as well as Beaune 1er Cru Clos du Roy.

In 2011, all wines began to be produced under the label « Domaine Nicolas Rossignol, » encompassing a total of 30 different appellations. Nicolas moved to Beaune to allow for more space.

In 2014, he acquired an additional 1.5 hectares in the Pommard and Pommard 1er Cru appellations, thereby further increasing production.

By 2016, Nicolas planned to build a new winery to continue crafting high-quality wines. Today, the estate covers about 17 hectares.

"Les Vignots" is not a 1er Cru but a lieu-dit, and also the name of the plot, located above the hill of Pommard, near the Arvelets, on the Beaune side with a south exposure. The vines are planted on a steep slope with poor, rocky soil, which is a result of erosion. This plot (characterized by this terroir) wasn’t affected by Phylloxera in the 19th century; as a result, its vines were used to create grafted vines in Côte de Beaune. The vines are between 30 and 40 years old, typically producing fresh, mineral wines with chalky tannins. The sunny period and southern exposure help all elements reach perfect maturity.

Nicolas Rossignol's wines are crafted from carefully selected grapes from vineyards cultivated using traditional winemaking techniques inspired by biodynamic principles. The vineyard is managed with "reasoned" viticulture practices, considering the lunar influence during both cultivation and wine production & aging. No chemical herbicides are used; soil maintenance is achieved through light plowing.

Unfortunately, there's not much to say about this bottle of Pommard, as it didn't taste great, despite my high expectations, especially given the excellent 2019 vintage in Burgundy. And the worst part is that I couldn't tell if it was because it was a bad bottle or because I just dislike it... Already, on the nose, it displayed funky and earthy aromas. The palate was unharmonious, with rough edges, a lack of fruit, substance, and texture, and featured weird acidity and dry, earthy, almost green tannins that were out of place, along with a bitter, unripe finish. Definitely not my taste, and, needless to say, not in line with the quality of the vintage.  

Shame, I usually love the wines of Nicolas Rossignol, but this one was disappointing. Bad bottle? Maybe. I still have 2 bottles in stock. I will give it another try.     

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

(*) Lutte Raisonnée, which translates to "reasoned struggle" or "reasoned approach" in English, refers to an agricultural method, particularly in viticulture, where growers minimize chemical use but retain the option to apply them when essential to safeguard their crops. It serves as a balanced approach between conventional and organic farming, allowing growers to be environmentally conscious without the strict requirements of organic certification. 

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