2001 Santiago Ijalba Viña Hermosa Reserva Seleccíon Familia Rioja Alta Spain

2001 Santiago Ijalba Viña Hermosa Reserva Seleccíon Familia Rioja Alta Spain
Suggested retail price $18-$22
Distributed by Peter Matt from Monarchia-Matt in NYC


Peter Matt has been in the wine business for quite some time (more than me for sure) and I've been buying quite a few of his wines over the past 7 years. He always comes up with good stuff and we always end up buying something from his portfolio. Yet small (the size of the company he represents), he is a solid wine merchant that has more than one trick up his sleeves. He came at the store to introduce us to this traditional Rioja and we fell in love with it.

Living and breathing Rioja for all of his life, Santiago Ijalba García was born, in 1948, in Haro, the capital town of Rioja bordering La Rioja Alta and La Rioja Alavesa. Haro encompasses some of the best and most ancient wineries of Rioja: Lopez de Heredia, CVNE, La Rioja Alta, Roda, and Muga (and a few more, but I just named my favorites).

As a teenager, Santiago Ijalba García started working for a local reputed Bodega (couldn't find the name). At 16, he was hired full-time and worked there for about 24 years. During that time, he helped establish the Rioja Wine Exporters Group, and obtained a degree in oenology in 1974.

In 1998, now 40 and full of experience, having grown gradually in higher positions with the years, he left his position as general and technical manager in the Bodega to launch his own personal project, under his own name "Santiago Ijalba, S.A." and his motto "Vinos de Calidad de Rioja Alta", in the Rioja Alta sub-region. His modern winery is located in Gimileo, a small village nestled a few kilometers south-east of Haro. The customers-and-tourists friendly winery includes a shop, a wine club and a dining room.

Roberto Ijalba, Santiago’s son, has also joined the business a few years ago, bringing his youth and passion for oenology to the winery, starting a renaissance with modern winemaking techniques, marketing innovation and cutting-edge trends. For the past few vintages (2004, 2005, 2006, etc..), the wines are made in a riper, fuller, modern style. Yet some remain a bit more traditional than others, with some being organic, and all are vinified using wild, naturally occurring yeasts.

Santiago Ijalba, S.A., as the motto indicates ("Vinos de Calidad de Rioja Alta" litterally translated by "Quality Wines from La Rioja Alta"), is a project that regroups different labels made at the new winery, called Viña Hermosa.

Santiago Ijalba García and his son, Roberto Ijalba Pérez, produce wines from their own 10 hectares of vineyards but also buy fruit from other producers. They produce many wines under about 8 different labels. Let's discover their range of wines.

Viña Hermosa represents the traditional Rioja wines.

Viña Hermosa Crianza, Viña Hermosa Reserva, Viña Hermosa Gran Reserva and our tasted wine of the day, the most exclusif of this range: Viña Hermosa Reserva Seleccíon Familia

Ermita de San Felices represents the more modern Rioja Wines

Ermita de San Felices (tinto), Ermita de San Felices Crianza and Ermita de San Felices Reserva

Vinos Selleccíonados The following selected wines are special editions, elaborated in exceptional crops, which represent the potential of Santiago Ijalba wines
and the new frontiers of Rioja wines.

Jarrero, Abando Crianza, Abando white barrel fermented, Irep and Ogga

They are like super special Cuvées from exclusif single vineyard for some and very old vines for most; aged in mostly French oak barrels for some and mostly Americain oak barrels for others; from mostly low yield vines and macerated and aged for a longer period of time to allow better concentration of aromas and flavors, depth and complexity. Some were produced only in great year like 2001 and 2004. (see their website for more details at www.santiagoijalba.com)

Recently introduced to their collection, they now also elaborate and produce certified Organic wines from their own vineyards but also from other Ecological Wine Growers, made under the strict rule of the Organic Agriculture control authority: Mutuo Cosecha and Mutuo Crianza

However, let's come back to our wine of the day, which is also our Discovery of the Month wine for April 2009:

2001 Santiago Ijalba Viña Hermosa Reserva Seleccíon Familia Rioja Alta

Made with grapes coming from over 60 years old vines, located in Rioja Alta and producing very low yields, this wine was fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel vats with wide lids to facilitate the “remontage”. After a long maceration, it was then aged for 18 months in American oak barrels. It was bottled without any filtration and the final result is a powerful yet very elegant wine worthy to be selected especially by and for the Ijalba family. It is clearly their most interesting wine under the Viña Hermosa label.

This is quite a stunning wine, especially if you, like me, adore traditional Rioja(s). The color shows already some signs of age with a light brique color on the rim with a pruny, brownish hue. The nose is beautiful and bright, quite intense, with red berry, floral, mineral, earthy, secondary aromas and tertiary notes, and a soft, woody characteristic usual to Rioja(s). The fruit quality of the vintage (2001 was excellent in Rioja) and the barrel ageing contribute to its earthy, woody, spicy and slightly balsamic aromas by adding dimension and complexity without the heaviness of the oak. It’s complex and rich yet balanced, of medium intensity yet with a lingering finish.

Somewhat light and easy to drink, this very enjoyable, traditional, medium bodied Rioja should pair nicely with baby lamb "Chuletas" (cutlets) served with country style patatas fritas and green salad. It tastes even better for a Reserva Seleccíon Familia under $25.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken from the winery website: www.santiagoijalba.com

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Discovery of the Month: April 2009 Intriguing wine from Le Marche

2007 Colli di Serrapetrona "Collanquanto" red Le Marche Italy
Suggested retail price $12-$15
A Jan d'Amore Wines Selection in NYC

You probably tried at least one white Vernaccia before, but did you ever try a red Vernaccia? No? Well, I need to admit, me neither, before this one. So let's discover it together.

This grape variety and the resulting wine of the same name come from "Le Marche" (or Marches) region, located in the central eastern part of Italy, a hilly region bordering the Adriatic Sea.

Serrapetrona D.O.C is an appellation (or a Denominazione di Origine Controllata) surrounding the village of the same name, situated in the foothills of the Appennine Mountains chain, about 60 kilometers southwest of the main town of Marche, called Ancona (in the Macerata province).

Although, Montepulciano and Sangiovese for the reds, and Verdichio, Trebbiano and Malvaisia for the whites, seem to be the major grape varieties, Le Marche produces many other different wines. Some well known and some so obscure that they don't even travel further than the local Marche market. Among them, you will find names like: Bianchello del Metauro (Bianchello grape), Bianco dei Colli Maceratesi (Maceratino grape), Falerio dei Colli Ascolani (partly made with Passerina, Pecorino and Pinot Bianco), and amongst many more, the now finally rediscovered Vernaccia (Nera) di Serrapetrona.

Vernaccia di Serrapetrona is a fairly rare and apparently ancient wine. Historians found trace of it in the Middle ages, with some appearances in the 14th century books and poetry. It was well established as an indigenous grape variety and a pretty unique wine by the 19th century, being one the most recognized wine of this small patch of land (that the Macerata province is) in "Le Marche". Altough, for diverse reasons, its popularity slowly declined by the end of that same century and Vernaccia Nera became an extremely local grape which nearly vanished. It took almost a hundred years for this grape variety to finally have a renaissance. New techniques, methods and a growing strong willingness to revive this so deeply enrooted grape by the middle of the 90's, brought the resurgence of this variety.

Vernaccia di Serrapetrona apparently comes in two red Spumante (slightly fizzy) versions: a dry and a sweet. Here is my dilemma, when I tried the wine, unless I tried it after a few hours of opening (which I don't think so, because usually Jan D'Amore always bring me closed bottles), the wine appeared to me to be dry for sure, but with no trace of fuzziness....???

Intrigued, I kept searching the net and Googling the name and always found the same result: Vernaccia di Serrapetrona is red (for sure), made from at least 90-95% of Vernaccia Nera with little addition of local or international red grapes (no doubt), and dry or sweet, usually presents tiny bubbles....Go figure! (I will have to ask my friend Jan).

To try to understand, I went to their website (www.collidiserrapetrona.it), and unfortunately for me, they do not have the English version working yet. So first, I tried to translate it but my Italian is poor and despite my efforts, I think I was making my own sauce rather than translating it the proper way.

Fortunately, an other website (www.consorziocompat.com) representing the "Marche Export Consortium of Typical Agricultural and Food products" came to my rescue and gave me the answer (or should I say: the properly translated version of it). The following info were taken from the above website:

"Colli di Serrapetrona farm was founded with the aim to implement a unique project to rediscover "still" Vernaccia wine (here is my answer), obtained from an autochthonous vine. The wines produced are the result of an initiative that aimed to promote the territory and its history and rediscover its traditions. The oenologist, Frederico Giotto, a young and enthusiastic expert, led this research and studied the vines and the winemaking processes."

The farm's vineyards are planted on the hill slopes surrounding the small village of Serrapetrona. Careful selection and excellent vineyards' management and winemaking are the key to obtain these rare little gems of intense aromas, flavors and sensations.

Made from about 95-100% Vernaccia Nera (and depending on the vintage about 5% Merlot), this wine spent 10 months in stainless steel tanks, didn't see any oak and spent another 2 months in the bottle before released.

2007 Colli di Serrapetrona Collequanto Vernaccia Nera Marche has a fairly intense ruby color. The expressive nose exposes aromas of flowers, lavender, spice, crushed green pepper and ripe red wild cherry. The palate presents darker fruit flavors, like cassis and blueberry, with more earthy tones and slightly green notes in a juicy and very enjoyable way. Balanced, medium to light, this wine has certain elegance with a lot of character and personality. I liked it a lot. Light, earthy and inviting, with integrated tannins and bright, refreshing acidity, it is an ideal mid-season and summer red wine. Pair it with poultry, grilled red meat, salami and other charcuterie. Grilled duck with wild herbs served with panned potatoes and mushrooms...

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

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Discovery of the month: March 2009, Domaine Bornard Exquisite Jura red wine

a word about Savio Soares

I need to admit, Savio Soares surprised me again with this wine. We tried it at the store Saturday night, just to refresh our memory and .... WOW! What a wine!

The more I discover (or rediscover) his portfolio, the more I love his wines. Savio has, in my opinion, one of the best portfolio of wines from lesser known regions in France, in the New York market (and probably in the USA). I can say that, so far, I probably enjoyed more than 85% of the wines that I tasted and obviously bought from his portfolio, and it is a lot to say for a guy like me. It is rare when I like most the wines that I tasted from a single importer / distributor, but with him, it is pretty much the case every time he introduces me to some of his new wines.

Born in Brazil, living in Germany, sourcing his wines in France (and elsewhere) and selling them in the New York market (and more), Savio Soares is a people person. You have to meet him in person to understand the phenomenon. Over the last few years, he really made an impression to most wine buyers he met (like me). He slowly became a reference like Louis/Dressner, Rosenthal, Kermit Lynch, Liz Willette, Wasserman, and a few others.

Importing small producers from lesser and unknown regions of France (but also Germany and soon Italy), Savio Soares is entering the very small group of the few dedicated and adventurous importer / distributor that brings some of the most interesting wines in this market. Pleasing, earthy and full of character wines that are mostly organic, biodynamic, or at least from sustainable culture and produced in really small quantities. These wines are balanced, focus with great acidity and excellent structure and texture, and definitely food friendly. Look on the back label for Savio Soares, wine connoisseurs and curious amateurs will be pleased.

However, let's get back to this extraordinary wine that 2006 Bornard "La Chamade" Ploussard is.

Domaine Annie et Philippe Bornard

Talking about an unknown wine region, Jura is surely one of the less appreciated appellations of France. Located east of Burgundy, Jura is also the name of a small mountain range located in the northern Alpine foothills, in the Franche-Comté region.

Bornard "La Chamade" is more particularly coming from the appellation Arbois-Pupillin, where some of the best Jura's wines come from. It is a little wine region within the Jura, which specialities are Vin Jaune (Yellow Wine) and Vin de Paille (Straw wine), two of the most unusual, with oxidized features white wines in France, made with Savagnin grapes. However, a few light yet complex and very expressive reds are also produced there with two grape varieties: Ploussard and Trousseau.




2006 "La Chamade" Ploussard A.O.C Arbois Pupillin Jura France

Suggested retail price $24 - $28

Imported and Distributed by Savio Soares Selections in NYC

Organic by nature, 2006 Bornard "La Chamade" is made with 100% Ploussard grapes. Clean, light and see through, the robe is fascinating, somewhat strange, almost magical, with a wide array of color changing in the glass from slightly orange on the rim evolving into red onion skin, boiled red onion skin, red-brown autumn leaf to almost bright, light red cherry in the center of the glass. Slightly oxidized, the nose is extremely complex, engaging and full of nuances and layers of various aromas and perfumes like nut, nutshell, almond, ripe dark and bright red cherry, forest floor, animal, game, cherry core and smoke with earthy and floral notes. The palate exhibits the same flavors with more intensity, enhanced and balanced by a great acidity that really carries the fruit through the finish. The mid-palate is lovely, rounded and supple yet bright and vivid. The flavors expand nicely toward a long, structured finish reminiscent of a dry, rich sherry wine with more fruit flavors. WOW! What a wine!

Somewhat light, but very enjoyable and so easy to drink. It will be perfect for late afternoon, as an aperitif, with nuts, olives, chorizo and dry cheese (and any other things that normally pair with sherry-like wines). As the summer approaches, put it in the fridge to cool it down a little and drink over fish like fresh Tuna or pink Trout, light salads with Feta cheese, or drink it simply on its own to really appreciate all of its nuances. It is really a wine to discover and share with friends, it will surely drag all the attention of the people around.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

And step into the green! Drink more Bio or Organic wines (and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment.

Discovery of the Month: February 2009 Mencia for less

2007 Guimaro Mencia "Amandi" Ribeira Galicia Spain (Pedro M. Rodriguez Pérez)

Suggested retail price $13-$16

A Jose Pastor Selection imported by Vinos and Gourmet Inc. (CA) and distributed by David Bowler Wines in NYC

We are back in Spain, and more precisely in Galicia, the green fertile Spanish's north western corner on top of Portugal. Ribeira Sacra D.O. is a little small wine enclave of Galicia, located east of Rias Baixas and west of Valdeoras D.O. (and Bierzo D.O.).

Ribeira Sacra D.O. extends, north to south, from the province of Lugo to the province of Ourense, in central Galicia. It regroups about 100 Bodegas scattered on about 1,200 hectares of land and vineyards around the valleys, steep hills' slopes, canyons and plains of the Miño and Sil rivers. Although a few other indigenous grapes are used in small quantities, the main grape varieties planted are Mencía, for the reds, and Albariño and Godello for the whites.

For centuries, like in France and Italy (and few more western European countries), producing wine and vine culture have always been a major part of the Spanish agriculture and culture (especially on the roads to Santiago de Compostela, where the monks and other religious presence were omnipresent and many churches and monasteries where built). Through out history, from the middle age to the modern times, the monks continued and maintained their growing vines and producing wines tradition are which are now one of the most popular, most appreciated, most respected and most expanded cultures in the world. Somehow, Thanks to the monks if we can drink good wines today (and eat good food, because they were also fine eater and, to a certain extend, developed many of our today's food habit and local recipes (especially in the countryside of each European country).

However, and strangely enough, the recognition and classification of most Spanish vineyards and Appellations came much later than other surrounding and neighboring countries. I said "most" because Rioja D.O. was established and recognized in 1925 and Sherry-Xeres in 1933. Both these D.O. preceded France, that only started its "Appellation d'Origine Controlée" system (A.O.C) in 1935, and Italy's D.O.C in 1965.

So, all of this just to say that Ribera Sacra is a very young D.O., born in 1997, and although by the beginning of the 80's a few producers where already trying to bottle their own wines under their own labels, claiming the particularities of the local Terroir and producing wines with very distinct expressions of the soils and climate, it took them more than 15 years to be recognized and accepted. Nowadays, the D.O. is more define in the mind of the consumers and it is fully rewarded by the consistency and quality of its wines.

Talking about quality wine, well, I choose this particular wine, Guimaro Mencia, because it was a very good value for money, also because, it is coming from a lesser known area and it is made with the Mencía grape, which is still overlooked and unappreciated (even by the wine connoisseurs).

Bierzo is usually the D.O. of choice regarding wines made with Mencía grape, but most of Bierzo's better wines remain a bit too expensive (in most case) for an uneducated or inexperienced customer. Although higher in acidity and not as ripe or smooth (compared to Bierzo), in my opinion, Ribeira Sacra reds still offer a very good alternative for consumers that would like to discover the Cabernet Franc taste like grape that Mencía is, for a more reasonable price.

Here again, I wasn't able to gather much about the winery and the importer doesn't seem to have anything on this wine either, so I'm just going to describe it.

Made from 100% Mencía grapes harvested in vineyards located in Brosmos, South of Lugo, influenced by the Sil river and a more somewhat continental climate, 2007 Guimaro Mencía "Amandi" Ribeira Sacra Galicia Spain is a very inviting little wine. The nose boasts notes of red cherry, touch of dark and blue berry, somewhat restraint but not shy with hints of smokiness and green notes (quite characteristic of the grape variety, very Cabernet Franc like). The palate is fairly light and playful, with high acidity that carries the fruit nicely through the finish. I like it on its own as an aperitif, but I also appreciated it with simple "amuse-bouche" made of Duck or Lamb. In my opinion, the acidity and the high, slightly green tone of the wine complement and contrast quite nicely with the fat of the meat.

I don't think that this wine was aged in oak, but if it was, the oak is minimal in taste. One may find this wine somewhat similar to a Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley, especially in the finish with the slightly green tannins (or the light touch of bitterness depending on your palate) mix with the acidity and the earthy smokiness.

It is and remains, for most of us, a bit of an esoteric feature in wine, which is not often necessarily understood or appreciated, but for the far-from-the-oak-and-the-overripeness palate drinker, it is a somewhat rustic delight that we surely appreciate from time to time.

Discover Mencía as a late spring-summer grape to enjoy with salads and simple dishes like cold cut and goat cheese.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

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Discovery of the month: February 2009 Chilean value

2008 Viña Palo Alto Reserve D.O. Maule Valley Chile

Suggested retail price $10-$13

Imported by Royal Imports and distributed by

I tried to get some info but I couldn't find much about this little wine. From a retailer website (no name), I kind of understand (it was a bit confusing...) that it was produced by the same people as Almaviva (understand Baron Philippe de Rothschild S.A. and Concha y Toro), which somewhat explains the Bordeaux style features of this wine, but their are no indications whatsoever on the label and Palo Alto doesn't have any website (which is also somewhat surprising, if it is produced by two major brands....I need to investigate on this....unless someone will be nice enough to leave a comment if he (or her) knows the answer...)

Curious by nature, I continued to search the web and found out that apparently Palo Alto is a related winery of Concha y Toro (go to www.conchaytoro.com and click on "The Company" then on "Related Wineries". Here is what it says about it:

"In 2006, Palo Alto is created to produce a single, innovative wine with the same name, very different from the classic wine lines produced by Concha y Toro. With a strong winemaking basis, Palo Alto is an assemblage or blend made from the best grapes originating in three specific vineyards in the Maule Valley: San Clemente (Cabernet Sauvignon); Villa Allegre (Carmenère); and Pencahue (Syrah). Palo Alto's modern approach breaks away from the more traditional wines of the world. Its vanguard style and attractive packaging identifies with today's wine consumer." (Info taken from www.ConchayToro.com)

I guess that it gives us a bit more info about the origin of the wine but not really how it was made. So I read the back label to see what they say:

"Palo Alto combines the best grapes from Chile with the time honored tradition of the Old World wine blending. Created by the soil and climate of the Maule River Valley, which sits between the Andes and the Coastal mountain ranges, our wine is a unique of rich Cabernet Sauvignon, peppery Syrah and sensuous Carmenère, Chile's signature grape variety. The ripe berry flavors and elegant oak of Palo Alto create a complex yet balance wine which is deep red in color and rich in aroma and character." (Info taken from the back label of Palo Alto)

The back label completes a bit the lack of info, which allows us to better to understand this little wine. Although, I would have loved to find a bit more info, I guess it is ok for now.

So if I resume, Palo Alto is a related winery of Concha y Toro (one of their many new projects), making a wine of the same name from 3 different grape varieties coming from some of their best vineyards in selected specific locations within the Maule Valley. Their intention is to craft a flavorful, rich and balanced wine, reminiscent of Bordeaux style with the Cabernet Sauvignon, a twist of Chile's "Savoir Faire" with its most recognized grape: Carmenère, lifted up by a little spicy note of Syrah. The resulting wine is aged a bit in barrel to add more structure and texture. Et voila! Palo Alto was born and since its first 2005 vintage, it continues to grow in the mind of the wine buyers like me (although the 2008 vintage is my first taste of it).

2008 Palo Alto Reserve was a surprisingly good discovery for me. The wine isn't the most complex or the best wine that I tasted from Chile, even in this price range, but I found it very interesting and intriguing. The robe is quite dense and dark. The nose is quite ripe with aromas of ripe dark berries, hints of oak and spice. The palate is fairly complex, well balanced with mature dark fruit flavors, nicely integrated notes of oak and leather mixed with hints of earth and spices. Overall, the wine is clean, focus, quite juicy and well structured. I liked it a lot and when I tasted it really stand out from the other 7 or 8 wines (that I just tasted before). It offered more balanced and depth which I found very attractive for the price. It represents another great value from Chile and Bordeaux lovers will surely appreciate its characteristics.

It deserves to be served with a perfectly grilled "entrecôte" (grilled on "vine shoots" also called "Sarments" in French, it is tastier trust my 35 years of experience on this subject) topped with Argentinean mountain salt and Patatas Fritas (just to mix the best of this two beautiful neighboring country that I visited and truly fascinated me).

Enjoy!

And step into the green! Drink more bio and organic wines (and food) made from sustainable culture.

LeDom du Vin

Discovery of the Month: February 2009 Earthy Notes

2005 Domaine de la Cave du Rocher Saumur Champigny Val de Loire (Rene Legrand)

Suggested retail price $11-$13

Imported by Baron Francois in NYC

Saumur Champigny is among the Loire valley’s finest red wines. This is a terroir of excellence for a fresh, balanced expression of Cabernet Franc.

Saumur Champigny are usually slightly lighter in style, structure and character than Chinon, yet in very good year, they can matched them in term of richness and length. Of course it depends on the style and the producer, but overall, one can say that Saumur Champigny is richer and more intense than a Bourgueil or a Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil, yet it doesn't reach the depth and complexity of a Chinon.

The Cabernet Franc vines grow in the yellow chalky soils, know as “Tuffeaux”, which give the wine its characteristic suppleness and an aromatic bouquet.

The harvest took place between the end of September and the beginning of October. After a maceration on the skin for about fifteen days, the wine was then matured in stainless tank, after a long fermentation. It was bottled in June of the following year.

Made from 100% Cabernet Franc, 2005 Domaine de la Cave du Rocher Saumur Champigny is surprisingly juicy, light to medium bodied yet fleshy and tasty. Although, Saumur Champigny is usually a great summer wine (like many Loire Reds), the rich and textured 2005 Cave du Rocher is a perfect wine to say good bye to Winter and welcome Spring. The palate is riper than previous vintages and certainly fleshier and juicier than many other Saumurs (that I tasted recently) in this price range (especially with no ageing in oak). Flavors of ripe cherry and ripe red berries intermingled with earthy and mineral notes, balanced by a great acidity that keep this wine focus until the end. The back palate and the finish are structured by some refined, integrated tannins (not too green, smokey or bitter, like it often happen with Cab. Franc base wines). This wine was an enjoyable surprise and may open wider the door to Loire valley to riper style wine drinkers (don't get me wrong, we are not talking about Californian or Australian wine drinkers....) Enjoy it room temperature for now and slightly chilled during summer. Serve it with cold cut, charcuterie or cheeses. Perfect for late afternoon break, barbecues and outdoors parties.

Enjoy,
Step into the green! Drink more Bio and organic wines (and food) from sustainable culture!

LeDom du Vin

2007 Can Feixes Blanc Selecció Penedès Spain (Bodegas Huguet de)

2007 Can Feixes Blanc Selecció Penedès Spain (Bodegas Huguet de)

Suggested retail price $10 - $13

Imported by Classical Wines (Sole US agent)

Although it is winter, and god knows the weather has been somewhat colder this year compared with the past 3-4 year, I have been enjoying much more white wines over the last 4 months than reds.

I guess my palate is changing and I need to admit that I am more and more attracted by fresh, crisp, vivid and mineral whites and earthy, somewhat rustic, lighter reds than I ever been before.

During winter, for the reds, I could drink some big Shiraz or Zinfandel, but I realized that any wines above 13.5% (14% at the max) do not please me no more. And unless they are very well made and the alcohol perfectly integrated, they are usually heavy, alcoholic (hot in the back palate) and often too ripe (sometimes clearly overripe or even somewhat stewed) for my taste-buds.

For the whites, during winter, I guess I could switch to big woody Chardonnay or even to Viognier, but I rather drink fresh Galician, Loire Valley and Northern Italy whites (and many others crisp and bright whites).

The "2007 Can Feixes Blanc Selecció", from Penedès, has been one of these refreshing whites that really pleased me lately. My wife and I probably enjoyed at least 6 bottles in less than 2 weeks. I can help it, I had to get back to it. I drink it like water.

Coming from vineyards located at the highest limit of the Penedès growing region, the upper Penedès, planted on gravelly soils and growing under a relatively extreme and dry climate, Can Feixes is a blend of 4 different grapes: 40% Parellada, 30% Macabeo, 20% Chardonnay and 10% Malvaisía de Sitges.

During the harvest, the grapes are hand-picked and carefully selected in the vineyards with a further selection on sorting tables at the Bodega. The must is obtained from the grapes gently pressed in a pneumatic press. The must is then filtered by static decanting, before going in stainless steel tanks to start the fermentation process. 

The wine is then left for a few months on its lees (dead yeast and small sediments) prior to bottling to maximize aromas and flavors. The resulting young and fresh white wine is then usually bottled in March of the following year in Rhine-style bottles (long narrow green bottles), all individually numbered.

2007 Can Feixes Blanc Selecció Penedès is at the same time complex and aromatic, yet light on its feet, easy to drink and inviting, full of freshness and minerality. It boasts aromas of fresh squeezed lemon, green apple, white blossom and minerals. Sharp and focus from beginning to end, it could be compared to a Muscadet in texture, yet it has more length and depth. Meant to be consumed young and fresh, this vivid wine will be great as an aperitif with light appetizers, pan seared fish with lemon juice and olive oil, and grilled chicken.

Enjoy!

Dominique Noel (a.k.a. LeDomduVin)

For more info go to www.canfeixes.com

Discovery of the Month: August 2008 - 2007 Chateau L'Ermitage Costieres de Nimes White Rhone Valley France

Hi Everybody,

This past week, I didn't taste much. It is the end of August. The summer has been quite slow (as usual for a New York retailer) and the weather has been fairly good so far, so a lot of our customers where gone (not too far...economy oblige) or not buying much wines.

However, It seems that less people traveled abroad this year which allowed us to keep a steady business, not great, but not too bad either. I guess the economy, the price of the gas, the Euro-Dollar exchange and the hugely anticipated election of the new president also explain why people refrain from spending as much as they used to.

Luckily, for once, in six years living in NYC (for me), the summer has been pretty nice with us, not too hot, not too humid and not too stinking either. We could even say that August has been even cooler than usual, especially the last two weeks, a little breeze gently refreshed the air and brought back red wines to mind.

Crisp roses, refreshing whites and light reds season is nearly finish, so I started to buy mid-season whites and reds for the fall.

About 3 weeks ago, I tasted a fairly inexpensive white Rhone that delighted me more particularly than any other white Rhone wines that I tasted in this price range since a long time. I ordered 5 cases of it right away and sold almost all of it in 2 weeks and a half (in August...not bad). I will have some more at the beginning of September.

2007 Chateau L'Ermitage Costieres de Nimes White Rhone Valley France
Suggested retail price $10-$13
Distributed by Baron Francois in NYC

I was literally blown away by this wine. I tend to think that a great wine is a wine that invites you to drink another glass after you've finished the first one. From the first sip on, I wanted to finish the bottle. My wife and I already drunk 3 bottles this week and counting...

Made of 3 grape varieties, 2007 Chateau L'Ermitage white combines all the characteristics of each grape in a perfectly balanced blend of 60% Roussanne, 30% Grenache and 10% Viognier. This is an ideal mid-season, medium-bodied white wine that offers a lot for the price. Roussanne brings fruit flavors (golden apple, white peach), body, roundness and earthiness. Grenache complete it with depth and structure. Viognier adds some charm to it with some floral notes on the nose, freshness with a crisp acidity in the mid-palate and a touch of oily texture in the finish. A very interesting and versatile white to enjoy with or without food, on a late warm lazy afternoon, for a picnic or a simple dinner. Enjoy!
LeDom