Open topic on weird organic or biodynamic wines

Open topic on weird organic or biodynamic wines

I love wines produced from organic, biodynamic, lutte raisonnee and other natural methods; more especially if they are from small, independent, fairly unknown wineries or producers.

I fully embrace the concept of respecting the environment and let mother Nature does what she does best. It is a good way to go back to the know-how of our ancestors, when we still knew how to make and take the time to craft things properly with passion and savoir faire, without really interfering but just making sure that everything was done right.

As we became aware of the need to go back to more natural methods to preserve our world and resources over the last few decades, it is, in my opinion, even more important to return to these days and ways as the world is changing and evolving so rapidly. Pushing further the limits of what we can do everyday,  medical researches, advanced technology and scientific progress are now also directed towards more natural and environmental concerned results, which do wonder when allied with natural methods in the vineyards and in the cellars.

Yet, some of us don't want technology and prefer the complete natural way, going back to ploughing the soil with a horse, doing everything by hands as well as letting all sort of wild herbs and weeds invade their vineyards; thus creating a better environment for the vines by reintroducing needed insects and other plants to fight the diseases and pests, without the use of herbicides, pesticides, chemicals or any unnatural compost. Growing up in the countryside with my grandfather, I think it is great and I'm glad some people continue to think that way.

However, like anything else, the natural way has pros and cons. In terms of wine production, not much cons as pretty much everything occures naturally without much human intervention (except maybe the following of the calendar for the Biodynamic Methods), and the pros are the respect of nature and the environment, learning how to retrieve this lost human instinct to rely on Nature itself without the needs of machine or chemicals.

In terms of wine tasting, depending on the consumer the pros can turn into cons, as they are often related to the rawness of the wine mostly due to minimal interventions in the vineyards as well as in the cellar, more especially during fermentation process with natural yeasts and ageing period in used barrels or vats or tanks, usually bottled with no racking, no filtration and no fining.

The resulting wines may be too rough, angular or rustic for the novice palates. Sometimes inharmonious or unbalanced, too many of them taste like raw and are definitely not as polished or clean as they should be, showing funkier, stronger Terroir oriented and earthier aromas and flavors (than regular wines), not always to the taste of the average consumer and difficult to sell without an explanation to warn about certain edges. 

Some winemakers even decided not to mention it on their label as it was affecting their sales, or to abandon these methods to favor the "Lutte Raisonee", which is also quite natural, but allows for more flexibility and the use of chemicals and pesticides when needed.

Fortunately lots of organic and biodynamic wines taste great, but they still only represent a minority amongst the ocean of organic and biodinamic wines that have flooded the market over the last 10 years. Unfortunately, natural wines, although much better and tastier than they were only even 5-6 years ago, still suffer from a controversial image in the consumer eyes.

Less than a decade ago, when the trend of natural methods made wines surge from western Europe to the London and New York markets, people were intrigued and excited but in the end not really satisfied. Some played the game saying, "it is a new style", "we are not just yet acquainted with them", "it is only a matter of time" or "it is about itme that we come back to more natural wines"; and the trend developed slowly, yet too many consumers have yet to be convinced.

And this surely due to the fact that some organic, biodynamic and other natrural methods crafted wines are too often difficult to approach and not accessible to everybody's palate. Some are great, even extraordinary at first taste and one can not get enough of them; but most are still too different to be fully understood at first sip. You know what I'm trying to say, you surely encountered at least one or two.   

Did you ever taste one of these weird organic or biodynamic wines? You know the types of wine that are too out there, supposedly too intellectual or too complex for anybody to really grab their essence, or in fact, for some of them, just plainly bad and tasteless.

I personally tasted quite a bunch of them, and even if I'm a defender of the organic, biodynamic and other  natural methods produced wines, I need to admit that some are just plainly disgusting and difficult to digest. Especially when you paid such a hefty price for something that your favorite local wine boutique pretends to be the next big thing in terms of taste, while it is barely drinkable.

Quite identical to regular wines, there are multiple reasons why some organic or biodynamic wines sometimes taste the way they do; and here are a few coming to mind.

Sometimes, I guess, it is just because the vines are too young and the resulting wine reveals fresh fruit but also green notes, bitterness and lack of depth and complexity (that is depending also on the richness and quality of the soil and overall Terroir).

It could also happen because of indigenous bad bacterias or yeasts present in the vineyards and / or more especially in the cellar, which affect the wine and its environment (cellar wall, roof, barrels, tanks, vats, etc...), due to lack of cleaning and disinfecting certain areas and tools.  

It might also be the result of a lack of experience from a winemaker not too acquainted yet with organic and / or biodynamic culture (bad decision, bad timing, etc...). Or on the contrary, a winemaker pushing things to the extreme, in both cases resulting in an angular wine with rough edges, lack of harmony, balance and integrity, often showing strange funkyness and strong earthiness on nose and palate.

Or sometimes it is just simple bad winemaking and that is it. Resulting in a disgusting wine that is not good when you open the bottle, and that will not evolve or never really get better in your glass or even with more time in the bottle (examples that I tasted showed weird smell - oxidized, volatile acidity, full of sulfur, excessive animal funk, or even strong cheesy, mushroom, moisture smell etc... and don't even get me started on the palate).

For the latter, some people who still think that selling wine is a lucrative business driven by money and not by passion, will always try to convince you that these wines that taste awfully wrong are "great". That it is a certain style or even that it is the producer pedigree, that it is out there, difficult to understand but that it is because you are novice about that particular taste, maybe needs decanting, etc... Do not believe them, those are bad excuses.

If the wine is shit (and god knows that as the grand son of a winemaker I hate to say that, as I tremendously respect the work of all people working in a winery), the wine is shit! (Organic, Biodinamic or not).

However, there are plenty of good examples of natural wines out there that are fantastic and worth tasting, even if sometimes, I need to admit, not always for everybody's palate.

I already described quite a few in many of my previous posts, but here is another one that I tasted not long ago. 

2009 Nicolas Testard Brouilly Beaujolais Burgundy France

Slightly off earthy nose with very ripe dark berry aromas, like grape jelly, and slight remains of carbonic maceration nuances, like if the wine recently came out of the vat, raw, unfined, unfiltred with barely perceptible bubbles. So far no problem, 2009 was a hot and ripe vintage; it is a young Beaujolais from a cru and it was crafted organically, which may also explain that slightly off-putting smell (those that are not acquainted with certain type of organic wines like this one may not like the smell). The palate is quite contrasted with the same dark very ripe fruit yet mingling with weird acidity and green edges bringing sour (acidity) and bitter (green), unripe edges probably from the stems if not remove, but more especially from unripe grape seeds; which is quite unusual for such warm vintage as 2009 which produced overall superb, soft, integrated and complex Beaujolais wines. The finish continues to offer the dark red fruit, but also and unfortunately the weird acidity and green touches too, with a subtle salty note.

Two bottles were opened, both showing the same things, too much to be coincidence, therefore it can only be the house style, or the winemaker style or the results of the decisions in the vineyard (early harvest due too much rain or the fear of over-ripeness if the weather was too hot) prior or during the harvest, that the winemaker took for this particular vintages (or all the above perhaps).

Yet, in conclusion, I will say that this wine is too funky and earthy and too inharmonious to be fully understood by most consumers; which is sometimes the case with certain producers who are producing their wines at one of the further extreme corners of the organic sphere (which is already a paradox in itself).

I usually like what Nicolas Testard does and previously enjoyed some of his wines, but this one was maybe to inharmonious for me to fully appreciate it. I will have to give it another chance in a few months to see if the wine has evolved or if it is just taste the same.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

2009 Domaine Chamonard Morgon "Le Clos de Lys" Cru Beaujolais Burgundy France

Wow! It has been a very hot lately; somehow too hot for the season in my opinion, which will surely provoke massive drought for the next 4-5 months, if temperatures continue to rise like that. It is already happening in western Europe and certain US states.

New Yorkers, you know what it means, everybody is going to crank up all available air-conditioner; therefore the town is going to humid because of the dripping in the street and the evaporation in the air, but also suffocating and polluted because of the rising temperatures, the hot and humid air rejected by the air conditioners and the gas from all vehicles, plus the smell from the trash in the street: i.e. “Welcome to the summer in New York city!”

However, let’s think positive and appreciate the other things the Big Apple has to offer: loads of tourist, concerts in the park, BBQ in the garden or on the roof top, and plenty more, but more importantly cold drink like beers, white and rose wines but also chillable, friendly and versatile reds like Beaujolais.  

Domaine Joseph Chamonard  

Having lived and worked amongst the “superstars” of Beaujolais, most of them his friends and neighbors, Joseph Chamonard had created a wonderful environment for his wines in Morgon, crafting traditional, earthy and hearty wines with great skills and attention. He practiced biodynamic/organic farming at some of its earliest mentions and only followed natural processes in the cellar. His “Clos de Lys” benefited for the unique community that shared and assisted each other for the forward progress of wine itself, if not for Gamay as a recognized noble varietal.

On the hill of Morgon, his vines stayed healthy without chemical or fertilized assistance and rested in living soils. They remain that way today, alongside the packed earth and starved vines of the neighbor’s only steps away.

Sadly, Joseph passed away in 1990, leaving his daughter Geneviève (and husband, Jean-Claude Chanudet) to carry on with the production and maintain the health of his 4-hectare parcels. Both have carried this mission through with each successive vintage since then, allowing for his name and his wines to perdure to these days.

There are no chemical treatments, in or out of the vineyards. Harvest is done by hand, late in the season to obtain full natural ripeness and complexity. Only natural yeasts are used to start fermentations. And little is done along the process other than patient guidance to its natural end. It is wine made the traditional way with respect to nature.   As some of the others of his era have recently passed on as well (Marcel Lapierre in 2010), there is a sense that the pattern set here in Beaujolais will be altered. With so much natural beauty remaining though, it will take more than a gang of four to do so. Afterall, it is now almost tradition. 

2009 Domaine Chamonard Morgon "Le Clos de Lys" Cru Beaujolais Burgundy France 

Suggested retail price $22-$25

Imported / Distributed by Savio Soares in NYC

Three decades ago, Joseph Chamonard was a recognized Beaujolais producer part of a group of friends, amongst some of the best Beaujolais’ producers, including late Marcel Lapierre, Guy Breton, Jean-Paul Thévenet, Jean Foillard, and their mentor late Jules Chauvet. Unfortunately, Joseph Chamonard died in 1990. His daughter Geneviève, helped by her husband Jean-Claude Chanudet, continued making supple and fruit forward Beaujolais wine in the same old traditional way, walking in the steps of her father with combined Biodynamic-organic methods and respect for the natural environment. Recently imported by Savio Soares in New York, Chamonard’s wines were barely distributed outside of the local market and were apparently difficult to find even in Paris. Now available in New York, Chamonard’s wines feature on the selection of some of the most established wine boutiques and restaurants, with one of the most expressive Morgon available in the New York market.

The 2009 vintage has become a true classic in Beaujolais, and the 2009 Chamonard Morgon reveals the high quality of the vintage and the ripeness of the fruit topped with an attractive Terroir driven attitude. The nose is very fragrant, with straightforward aromas of light cherry and raspberry, and earthy notes. Light to medium in body, the wine is perfectly balanced between full fruit and lively acidity, with an earthy touch on the finish. Long, robust, a touch rustic yet so structured, ample and complex, this wine possesses the richness characteristic of the village of Morgon wines and great ageing potential. A bit tight just after opening, it needs at least 30 minutes of aeration or even decanting to fully express all its nuances. 

I have really enjoyed the last 3 vintages (2006, 07 and 08) and need to admit that the 2009 vintage is the one that reveals the most fruit, ripeness and length. In my opinion, I just bought more Beaujolais (from diverse producers) from this exceptional vintage and, if I may, I will certainly encourage you to do the same before the vintage runs out. However, if you can’t, it seems that 2010 shouldn’t be so bad either.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Most info partly taken and partially edited from the importer website at http://savioselections.com

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

2009 Domaine "Les Lys Sacrés" Brouilly Beaujolais Bourgogne France

No doubt, 2009 is an excellent vintage across the board in France, but in my opinion more particularly in Beaujolais. It is quite amazing frankly that most, if not all, 2009 Beaujolais that I tasted were ranging from very good to truly fantastic. There must be some bad ones somewhere, but I have yet to taste them. I will write soon about a great one that I loved, but here is one that I really enjoyed too.  

Domaine "Les Lys Sacrés"  

Domaine Les Lys Sacrés is located in the village of Odenas, about 3 kilometers south of Brouilly, in the Beaujolais region, a commune the French "departement" of the Rhône, part of the Rhône-Alpes region.

I know it is a bit confusing to think that all Beaujolais are produced in the Departement of the Rhône, and are not a part of the Rhône valley wines but Burgundy wines; and that most Rhone Valley wines are produced in the departements of "Isere" and "Drome" and not in the "departement" of the Rhône, but in the region of Rhône-Alpes. You may have also notice that certain producers stopped putting the name "Rhône" (for the departement after the village of origin) on their label to avoid the confusion.

However, to go back to our wine of the day, this is a traditional estate, earthy and surely organic,  that do everything the old way, especially the harvest as specified on the label: "Récolte à l'Ancienne" Work in the vineyards is done under "Lutte Raisonnée", which means natural and sustainable methods, adapted to the different vineyards depending on the quality of the vintage, with minimal use of chemicals (pesticides, herbicides, etc..) only when necessary.

2009 Domaine "Les Lys Sacrés" Brouilly Beaujolais Bourgogne France

Suggested retail price $14-$17

Imported / Distributed by Alan Bradley Imports in NYC (with help via Francki Selections)

100% Gamay, 2009 Les Lys Sacrés possesses a light purple-ruby color of medium intensity, with attractive reflects. The fresh and complex nose boasts aromas of cherry, ripe dark fruit, spices and herbs mingled with hints of minerality and smokey notes. Offering the type of flavors, the palate is soft, balanced, well rounded and quite fruit forward due to the ripeness of the vintage, yet it feels summery and crisp due to a good amount of acidity. Overall easy going, friendly and very approcheable. The finish is quite long and juicy with velvety tannins. Somehow thirst quenching I must say. Very nice and versatile, it will pair well with charcuterie, hors d'oeuvres and more complex dishes based with poultry, game and grilled white meat like pork or veal.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

2009 Clos de la Roilette Fleurie Cru Beaujolais Bourgogne France

For those of you who may not know it, notoriously famous for its esoteric, natural wines from artisanal producers crafting beautiful gems and solid consistent flagships in their own respective appellations, importer Louis/Dressner has left Douglas Polaner Selections, and is now distributed through David Bowler wine in New York state. No matter really who is distributing Louis/Dressner wines, as long as we can still buy them, that’s only what really counts for wine buyer like me.

However, talking about wines from Louis/Dressner, I just tasted one of the standards of the Cru Beaujolais: Clos de la Roilette Fleurie. This wine has always been a remarkable example of what Fleurie as to offer. And people who know my discriminating dissecting-like-a-surgeon palate, understand that I love crispy, crunchy wines with juicy fruit, vivid refreshing acidity and integrated yet present tannic structure, which are the essential backbone components of great wines. Well, trust me, I don’t say that for every wine, but I just found all of these needed and indispensable characteristics in the 2009 Clos de la Roilette Fleurie, and I was quite blown away by its gustative qualities.

You see, I talk a lot (didn’t notice?...) and can also write a lot (bored already?...), but when I love a wine, then suddenly no word can be heard from my claymation mouth. Not a sound. I just enjoy and savor the wine till the last drop. If I talk too much about a wine just after tasting it, it is because I dissected it so much that I found too much flaws in it (inharmonious, disjointed, unbalanced, unripe, no acidity, no texture, no structure, hollow middle, short finish, too ripe, too acidic, too thin, too woody, too tannic, bitter, sour, etc…). If I don’t say anything, it is usually because I found harmony of all the elements and components of the wine to my liking, perfectly adapted to my taste and taste buds’ cravings.

When I taste, I need to understand the wine: its origin, the climate of the region, the climate of the vintage, the exposure, the elevation, the type of soil, the way it was made, vineyard management, vinification, and what was the thinking behind the winemaker’s mind and adaptation to the vintage. So I always ask myself some questions when I taste to be able to appropriately judge the wine and comprehend why and how it tastes like it tastes. How was the vintage in that particular region? What is the usual style of the winemaker for this particular estate? Has the climate during ripening season and harvest season really imparted the winemaking and the final taste? Or did the winemaker choose to harvest earlier because it was a very hot year or later because it was a cooler vintage? How long was it aged? In tanks or in barrels? Were the vineyard and cellar managements Organic, Biodynamic, Sustainable, Lutte Raisonnée, Carbon Neutral, Biologic, Natural, or simply adapted with a combination of some or all the above?

It is important not to just taste the wine for what it is, but also for what it represents, the work of the men and women behind it, the region it comes from and more interestingly to be able to retrace its life from the end of the previous harvest, the dormant period of winter, the burgeoning and coming back to life period with the flowering and the emergence of the fruit, the ripening season up until the grapes are harvested and juice is pressed. In order to be truthful, passionate and convincing, get to know the wine that you taste, it will help you a lot when you will have to describe it to your customers or to your family and friends.

For certain person, wine represents only fermented grape juice in a bottle. As a passionate wine lover, wine buyer and wine drinker, moreover grandson of a winemaker, my love for wine goes beyond the label: topping the grape variety (ies) its was made with and the region, each wine encompasses a bit of history often associated with local culinary traditions, complemented by the regional and local topography, climatology, pedology, edaphology; and without mentioning biology, chemistry and mathematics... and the personality of all the people who participated to its elaboration from the vines to the glass.

Think about the fact that each winemaker has one shot each year to succeed, no matter what, to produce the best wine he or her can craft with a bit of help from the combination of mother nature and new technology (not always accessible for all of them). Winemaking is a fragile, often costly and testing difficult concept often counterbalanced by the skills, experience, knowledge, know how, style and personal instinct of the winemaker. Think about all of the above when you next taste a wine, you’ll see you may experience a brand new way to enjoy but also understand what you taste.

However, I get carried away once again, but it's true: it is very easy to open bottles of wine and empty them or condemn them if the wine is bad; yet it is not that easy for winemakers to craft these little gems, which are Happiness in bottle that you gorge on to every time a good occasion presents itself.

Let’s go back to our wine of the day:

2009 Clos de la Roilette Fleurie Cru Beaujolais France

Clos de la Roilette is located in the village of Fleurie, one of the 10 Crus of Beaujolais (from north to south the Beaujolais crus are: Saint-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Brouilly and Côte de Brouilly), about 60 kilometers north of Lyon.

The estate covers about nine hectares of one of the best slopes in the Beaujolais Crus. The “Clos” (literally meaning an enclosed plot of land planted with vines), which has an eastern exposure, borders the Moulin-à-Vent appellation, and produces wines that are beautiful when young and have the capacity to age 5-10 years, depending on the vintage.

In the 20’s, when the Fleurie appellation was first created, the former landowner was infuriated with losing the Moulin-à-Vent appellation under which the “Clos” had previously been classified. He created a label, using a photograph of his racehorse Roilette, and used the name Clos de la Roilette, without mentioning Fleurie. The owner vowed not to sell a drop of his wine on the French market and the production went to Switzerland, Germany and England.

By the mid-1960s, the owner’s heirs had lost interest in the “Clos” and a large portion of the land had gone wild and untended. In 1967, Fernand Coudert bought this poorly maintained estate, and replanted the vineyards. His son Alain joined him in 1984, and has been the winemaker since.

The Couderts say their particular terroir (mainly clay and manganese), and the age of their vines (25 to 33 years-old) account for the richness of their wine. It usually has a deep blackcurrant color with a hint of purple, a restrained nose of crème de cassis, a rich, full mouth with aromas of cassis, black cherries, and a nutty character, and finishes with zesty acidity. This is a wine that ages gracefully and takes on the aromatic character of a Pinot Noir.

With the 1998 vintage, the Couderts introduced a new wine, Cuvée Christal, which is lighter and meant to drink younger. Also, a few vintages ago, they started a selection of old vines cuvée that is partially aged in older oak barrels. They call this Cuvée Tardive, meaning that it needs more aging time and has even greater longevity than the Clos cuvée.

2009 Clos de la Roilette Fleurie Cru de Beaujolais Bourgogne France

Suggested retail price $19-$22
Imported by Louis/Dressner and distributed by David Bowler in NYC

First, and without trying to make any kind of generalization, I need to say that overall, 2009 was across the board a very good vintage, combining ideal climate and temperatures with optimum ripeness, great structure and complex resulting wines in many regions across the hexagonal country, as we like to call it in France. Many of you may have already realized that most 2009 French (and most European too) whites and rosés were quite fat and intense compared to 2008 and more especially 2007, which were leaner, somewhat more classic vintage depending on the region (and depending on your taste and palate too).

For the reds, 2009 seamed to ally similar ripeness as in the 2005 and 2006 vintage with the acidity of 2006 and 2008 and the tannins of 2007 (do you still follow me?). In any case and however you take it, it was a very good year, which produced exceptional wines for most producers. And the 2009 Clos de la Roilette Fleuire is no exception; on the contrary, it is a great example of what 2009 has to offer in the Beaujolais region.

It shows a bright ruby red color with pinkish reflects. The nose has reminiscent of earth combined with charming and inviting freshly crushed red and dark cherry aromas. Despite the ripeness of the vintage, the generous palate has a lovely crisp texture with excellent tannic structure and vivid, racy acidity that enhances the ripe red and dark berry flavors. This wine is really nice, balanced, focus, elegant and juicy with a lingering finish full of bright red cherry and earthy, mineral tones. What a delightful wine! Agreeable, gentle yet solidly built, crisp, juicy and crunchy like I love. I could enjoy drinking quite a bit of this wine.

It shows great potential, complexity and length in a straight to the point package. No chi-chi. No bla-bla. Just a great straight earthy wine that has the character and the profile of a charismatic vigneron, the frank and uncomplicated old style of “les hommes du terroir”, a wine that remind me my late grandfather and the winemakers of his generation (check out the picture of Monsieur Coudert on Louis/Dressner website, and you’ll understand what I’m trying to say). They knew how to make wine that expresses their terroir of origin and the full complexity of the grape variety’s aromas and flavors.

There are plenty of bad wines in the market, because there are plenty of bad and none passionate winemakers and too much vines planted where they shouldn’t have been planted (increase of the demand, lack of soil study, lack of knowledge, or skills or experience, etc…), but put a passionate winemaker on a great terroir and you’ll obtain magnificent results.

The list of my favorite estates and wines from around the world will be too long to develop in just one post, therefore I will just say that, like many other great wineries and estates that ally the resourceful human qualities with the qualities of a preserved and naturally tended Terroir and vineyard, Clos de la Roilette has established itself as a benchmark standard of high quality for the Fleurie appellation and an inspiration for wine buyer like me to constantly buy their wines year after year.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from the importer website at http://louisdressner.com/Coudert

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines (and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide.

2006 Chateau Cambon Beaujolais Villages Bourgogne France

Chateau Cambon Beaujolais Villages Bourgogne France

It all started in 1995, when Marie and Marcel Lapierre, in association with Jean Claude Chanudet (from “Domaine Chamonard”), purchased Château de Cambon, which was in bankruptcy. They brought a renaissance to the estate and restructured its vineyards.

Marie is managing it. Marcel Lapierre, her husband, who also owns a Domaine in Morgon (hence Domaine Marcel Lapierre), is the vineyard manager/winemaker and Jean Claude is in charge of all the technical and material part. Although Marcel adapts the same care and methods as with his own Domaine in Morgon, the three of them make the final decision regarding the wines.

Although the vineyard management is not technically Biodynamic or Organic, they use the “Lutte Raisonnée” method, which is quite close to both despite the use of chemicals when needed.

“Lutte Raisonnée” means that they adopt different attitudes and methods in the parcels depending on the vines, the nature of the soil, the environment and the necessary measures that need to be taken depending on the vintage, the weather and micro-climates. It also means that they only apply minimal or barely no use of chemicals treatment (pesticides, herbicides, etc) to fight diseases and fungus, only when really necessary. Also, when they do not use any chemical, they treat the vineyard with Biodynamic products and plow their vines.

The vineyards of this estate are located between the crus of Morgon and Fleurie. But due to bureaucratic indecisiveness between 1935 and 1936 when most Beaujolais and Cru Beaujolais AOC(s) were created, this vineyard was not included in either cru, but just given a Beaujolais-Villages designation. Since the owners at this time did not protest the decision, this land will forever be designated as Beaujolais-Villages or Beaujolais.

That said, Marie and Marcel believe that these wines show a marked resemblance to the Morgon cru. Marcel vinifies them in the same manner and enthusiasm as with his other wines at Domaine Lapierre in Morgon.

Harvests are done manually with serious sortings, made by each harvester when they pick the grapes in the vineyards, then re-verified when they empty their basket in the large bucket behind the tractor before going to the winery, and one last time at the winery.

Usually they only make 2 different wines, the rosé Beaujolais wine (wine of bleeding or “saignée”) to allow better concentration to their Beaujolais red and, thus, the red Beaujolais wine. Occasionally, when the vintages are very good, they also make the Cuvée “Le CAMBON”, a Beaujolais Villages that is made with the best grapes of the vintage from the older vines. When the vintage is not as good, they mix all the grapes and only produce the Beaujolais red. In any cases, they sell everything every year one way or another, which is another proof of the high quality of this estate and the people behind it.

All their wines are produce and vinified with all natural yeasts and without SO2 or “chaptalisation” in 40-75 hl foudres (large oak vats). Only tiny doses of sulphur are added to increase stability and avoid oxidation, but bottling occurs without filtration. The wines are as natural as can be and the result in the bottle is vibrant and alive.



2006 Chateau Cambon Beaujolais Villages Burgundy France
Suggested retail price $18-$21
Imported by Polaner Selection in NYC

The 2006 vintage is characterized by the ripeness but also the freshness of the fruit. Expressing the typical red fruits of Gamay combined with the minerality of the soil; this wine is quite delicious and somewhat elegant with a nice dose of earthiness.

Behind its deep red-purple color, which is by the way, slightly cloudy, this wine presents inviting and complex aromas of cherry-like fruit with earthy notes. A touch rustic, the palate is fresh and juicy, with red cherry fruit enhanced by a great acidity. The finish is a touch dry and needs a bit of food but has good structure overall.

Marcel Lapierre and his team once again managed to produce great Beaujolais that deserve some attention. Not to mention it again, but this is an unchaptalised, unfiltered, unfined, unsulphured wine from somewhat partly Biodynamic-Organic vines made by Beaujolais wizards that are very talented at what they do. Domaine Marcel Lapierre, Domaine Chamonard and Chateau Cambon are some of the best Beaujolais of the Morgon area and surely some of the most natural, really expressing the characteristics of their Terroir of origin.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from an email from Marie Lapierre to produce a technical sheet for Domaine Marcel Lapierre and Domaine Chamonard for Savio Soares (see also Savio Soares website at savinho.com) and from Chateau Cambon importer website at www.polanerselections.com


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Beaujolais Nouveau doesn't appeal anymore!

Beaujolais Nouveau doesn't appeal anymore!

As I was saying in one or two of my previous posts, Beaujolais wines are often misunderstood because Beaujolais Nouveau are misleading examples of what Beaujolais has to offer. There are much better Beaujolais wines out there, like the Beaujolais Villages and Cru Beaujolais, if you want to fully experienced the complexity of this wine region. But let's get back to the impact, or the non-impact I should say, of Beaujolais Nouveau.

The 3rd Thursday of November, each year, corresponds to the official release date of the big mass marketed Beaujolais Nouveau in the world. It is one of the most important race for cash of the year, ringing the bell for the beginning of the last 6 most lucrative weeks of the year (holidays' season) during which importers, wholesalers, distributors, retails and restaurants secure their feet in the starting blocks, to be the fastest to collect the maximum of cash before the New Year (January and February being usually really slow months).

Beaujolais Nouveau day is normally quite huge, with banners all over the city, costly advertising in diverse magazines and newspapers, and wine tastings suddenly mushrooming in bars, restaurants and retails. However for the past 2-3 years, Beaujolais Nouveau sales have been decreasing, it seems that people are not interested anymore, almost bored of it. It is normally a fun thing to do with friends and family, but the quality of the last few vintages was deceiving and people slowly abandons the idea of celebrating Beaujolais Nouveau day.

2009 is supposed to be a great, promising vintage for many wine regions in France and overall in Europe. The Beaujolais Nouveau 2009 is apparently also a very good vintage and triggered a lot of expectations from the producers (none whatsoever from the consumers...). However, this year, banners where nowhere to be seen and advertisings were more discreet or even hidden in the press. The usual battering campaign didn't seem to work this year. Economy? Recession? Lack of interest? Not fashionable anymore? Who knows! Thus, we can somewhat deduct that Beaujolais Nouveau doesn't appeal anymore!

You see, last year we bought about five different brands of Beaujolais Nouveau: two did OK! And the other took us forever to sale them, up until March or even April of the next year. Who wants to sell Beaujolais Nouveau in April? No one. we even had to considerably lower the price to sell them. So, this year we only bought 2 brands: Duboeuf (can't avoid it and people are expecting it) and Dupeuble (a more artisanal, way smaller production wine with less mass appeal but more character and depth). We normally buy Domaine de La Madone, but we didn't this year.

However, we were ready for a big day last Thursday, on Beaujolais Nouveau Day. Like many of our competitors, we had a free in-store tasting from 5.30pm to 8.30pm, opposing Duboeuf ($8.99) and Dupeuble ($14.99) Beaujolais Nouveau to Henry Fessy Regnié ($11.99) and Domaine de la Chapelle des Bois Fleurie ($19.99), just to offer the possibility for our customers to understand the differences between Beaujolais Nouveau, Beaujolais villages and Cru Beaujolais. We even posted the event (like most of our events) on Twitter and Facebook, thinking that we will have a big turn over.

Well, we were wrong. God knows if it was the rain that night that discouraged the customers or the lack of interest, but the sales result at the end of the tasting was pretty disappointing. Friday was no better and Saturday, even if a bit better wasn't extraordinary either. Today, Sunday, sales seems a bit better, perhaps the nice sunny weather is inspiring people to go out and have a glass of Beaujolais Nouveau with family and friends.

In any case, the results at the end of the next six weeks will indicate if Beaujolais Nouveau is still fashionable or not. One thing is sure, it doesn't create the craze that it once used to be anymore, and sales are far much slower than they used to be too. We'll see next week with Thanksgiving, may be people will pair some Beaujolais Nouveau with their Turkey and sales will go up again, but I think Beaujolais Nouveau's reputation and the enthusiasm that it once used to create are depleting.

My personal opinion regarding our in-store tasting, it was interesting to compare these 4 Beaujolais:

2009 Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau Burgundy France
Suggested retail price $7-$10

Fruity, straightforward, simple, somewhat fun but nothing really exciting with mix indiscernible flavors (like each year, some say Banana, other Strawberry, I'll say it is definitely confusing and appears to be a bit of both).

2009 Dupeuble Beaujolais Nouveau Burgundy France
Suggested retail price $13-$16
Imported / Distributed by Winebow in NYC

Definitely a step up from Duboeuf, more Terroir oriented with more nuances and character. Still quite fruity and playful, a touch earthy, with more volume and length. From a smaller production where quality can be controlled and achieved. Gentle flavors of red cherry and berries, earth and mineral constitute the main features on this enjoyable Beaujolais Nouveau.

2008 Henry Fessy "Château des Reyssiers" Regnié
Suggested retail price $10-$13
Imported by Louis Latour / Distributed by Mr. Touton Selections

A charming, easy going, light Gamay wine. The robe is light, bright ruby red. Developed aromas of red berries, like red currant and raspberry, with subtle floral perfume constitute the nose. In the palate, the attack is quite juicy and fruity, expanding nicely in a structured, elegant and supple mid-palate. The acidity carries the red fruit flavors with focus toward the lingering, fresh and dry finish. Quite well rounded without excessive tannins, this wine is well made, simple yet refined and charming, somewhat feminine and refreshing with a twist of earthiness, a touch dry at the end. Enjoy it warm temperature with white meat and poultry, or even slightly chilled with fish or cheese.


2007 Chapelle des Bois Fleurie Beaujolais France
Suggested retail price $18-$21
Imported / Distributed by Rosenthal / Madrose

Made from 100% Gamay Noir a jus Blanc, from vines averaging 40 year old, planted on granitic soils, the 2007 Fleurie possesses a dark ruby color of good intensity. Initially slightly rustic on the nose, it offers charming cherry aromas with intense stony minerality, and some blueberry notes. At first a bit tight and earthy in the mouth, it definitely benefits of a bit of patience and a good swirl in the glass to fully express itself. The palate, once open, develops with intensely concentrated red and dark fruits complemented by great earthiness. Slightly tannic finish, the balance between the rich fruit and the acidity in this wine is the charming key. After quite a few minutes, it evolves gently and smooths out some of the slight rustic edges.

The Chapelle des Bois was definitely the best and most complex of the bunch.

Over the last few days, I wrote quite a few articles and wine posts about Beaujolais on my blog (www.LeDomduvin.com), feel free to leave me some comments and opinions.

If that can help, here is a small list of some of my favorite producers of Beaujolais: Chantal & Eric Coudert-Appert at Domaine de la Chapelle des Bois, Henry Fessy, Pascal Granger, Domaine Michel Cheveau, Domaine Chatelard, Domaine Joseph Chamonard, Jean-Paul Brun, etc.. and you can find more on my previous post: www.ledomduvin.com/2009/04/lets-go-back-to-beaujolais-for-minute.html


Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

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2007 Chapelle des Bois Fleurie Beaujolais France

Chapelle des Bois Fleurie Beaujolais France

Located just about 50 kms north of Lyon and 15 minutes south of Macon, "Chapelle des Bois" is a "lieu dit", located at the southern entrance of the village of Fleurie, one of the Cru Beaujolais in Burgundy.

For those of you who might wonder what a "Lieu dit" is? Here is an explanation.

In the medieval time (between the 5th and 15th century and probably before that), when the land lords (Bourgeois, Aristocrats and other King's court usual suspects like Dukes, Barons, Princes, Knights, etc...) used to reign over the peasants (farmers, growers, blacksmiths, etc...), names were attributed to agricultural and viticultural small parcels of land or vineyards as well as small community neighbors (small group of houses in the middle of fields usually inhabited by the cited above peasants).

These names were often given after specific landmarks (like Chateaux, Churches, Cloisters, Domaine, etc..); small parcels of land (agricultural or not) or vineyards with specific Terroir characteristics (often related to the soil's composition or the predominant plants or trees) and also the predominant family name of the designated area (usually related to their place of origin or their job, which often became with time their last name too). Time passed yet traditions remained, even up until today, the "Lieu dits" still exist and find their stronger meaning and sense of place in the vineyards all around France.

Depending on their Terroir characteristics and their qualities, also depending on the region, they became what we now know as the "Grand Cru", "1er Cru" and other strange additional names on the labels that are so characteristic to the French wines. More especially in places where traditions still prevail like in Burgundy, Rhône, Alsace and the Loire Valley. One can also find quite a few in Champagne and the Languedoc; and just a rare few in the Southwest of France (Cahors, Madiran, etc..) and a fair amount in the eastern part of France, in Savoie and Jura. But barely none in Bordeaux for example; which is strange because, like most of the entire countryside in France, Bordeaux possesses a lot of "Lieu dits" morceling (dividing) the small villages and the surrounding lands into giant puzzles, sometimes difficult to understand if you didn't grow up in the area, yet you rarely see the name of a "Lieu dit" on Bordeaux bottles.

"Lieu Dit" is basically an old French agricultural and viticultural term designating a small, delimited area for traditional and specific reasons, which has a traditional name assigned to it. "Lieu dit" has been eventually, and especially by traditions, promoted and perpetuated by the winegrowers and its typical, and now firmly established, usage translates as a "vineyard or parcel's name" or a "named vineyard or parcel or Clos". In most cases, a "lieu-dit" is usually smaller than an Appellation and could be translated as a sub-division of higher pedigree and specific Terroir characteristics within an appellation (Grand cru, 1er Cru, etc..), or even within the different vineyards of an estate (designated parcel or vineyards names).

Not to be mistaken with the late XVIIIth century "Château de la Chapelle des Bois", also in Fleurie, "Domaine de la Chapelle des Bois" is a small estate owned by the same family for the past 7 generations, which can be traced up until 1820, with Chantal & Eric Coudert-Appert, the current owner, being the last generation. In 1991, Chantal took over her father who took over the estate in 1962 from his own parents and so on.

Like in many other small Domaines, Chantal and Eric take care of everything themselves from the vineyards to cellar, and all the different steps of the vinification process. It allows them to have a perfect control and knowledge over the work done in the vineyards and in the cellar. They hand harvest the grapes which undergo their fermentation process in cement tanks. Everything is done with extreme attention to details in the most natural way possible.Their passion, care and hard work is reflected in their wines. The quality of their wines and the numerous accolades and notes of appreciations from the customers are their best rewards.

Domaine de La Chapelle des Bois possesses 8.4 hectares of vineyards located in Fleurie and Chiroubles, in the heart of the Cru Beaujolais. The little house, also called "Cadole" in French, standing in the middle of the vineyards on the label, used to exist and was used by the workers during their break for the lunch and to stock vineyard tools, but it was destroyed by the terrible storm of 1999. It was drawn quite some time ago by one of their friends, an Englishman named Peter, and they are quite thankful for it is now one of the last memory of this "Cadole", which has now a symbolic and sentimental meaning.



2007 Chapelle des Bois Fleurie Beaujolais France
Suggested retail price $18-$21
Imported / Distributed by Rosenthal / Madrose

Made from 100% Gamay Noir a jus Blanc, from vines averaging 40 year old, planted on granitic soils, this wine underwent traditional fermentation and semi-carbonic "cuvaison" for 10-15 days in order to extract the voluptuous fruit and feminine profile authentic to Fleurie. Drinkable now and expressing bright aromas of red fruit, you can also wait for another 2-3 years, it will surely enhance the complexity of the aromas which usually come with a bit of aging in the bottle.

The 2007 Fleurie possesses a dark ruby color of good intensity. Initially slightly rustic on the nose, it offers charming cherry aromas with intense stony minerality, and some blueberry notes. At first a bit tight and earthy in the mouth, it definitely benefits of a bit of patience and a good swirl in the glass to fully express itself. The palate, once open, develops with intensely concentrated red and dark fruits complemented by great earthiness. Slightly tannic finish, the balance between the rich fruit and the acidity in this wine is the charming key. After quite a few minutes, it evolves gently and smooths out some of the slight rustic edges.

Overall, pretty good, slightly rustic with row components (nothing abnormal for a natural wine) yet offering plenty of fruit and layered subtle nuances, really expressive of Fleurie's Terroir. Enjoy it with earthy dishes: game, birds, veal stew, and rack of lamb.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info roughly translated from the winery website at www.coudert-appert.fr

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Some red wines for Thanksgiving and the holidays of the end of the year

Some red wines for Thanksgiving and the holidays of the end of the year

This week is "Beaujolais Nouveau" week, with its release this Thusrday, November 19th; followed by "Thanksgiving" the next week on Thursday, November 26th. Two great occasions to fill up your cellar with Gamay and Cabernet Franc based wines. Soon to come Christmas and New Year's eve will be greater occasions but I will suggest you different wines and festive sparkling gems. However, Beaujolais and Gamay are in the spotlight this week, so let's talk about them.

Led by firmly established brands, (somewhat too commercial for my liking: i.e. George Duboeuf, Louis Jadot, Labouré-Roi and Drouhin), Beaujolais Nouveau invades the US and the rest of the world market, each year on the 3rd Thursday of the month of November. It triggers excitement and excess of craziness, always a good excuse to party and celebrate, and usually disturbs (or even disfigures) the decor of your local wine boutique for at least 3-4 weeks, occupying the front shelves and the easy-to-find "displays" next to the registers (up until the end of the year).

It is usually an easy sale which requires no special skills but a simple sentence: "Nice, fruity, simple and juicy, and this year it bursts "Banana" (or strawberry) flavors"(by the way, IMO, Duboeuf this year seems to be a mix of both....try it, you'll see). The other good thing about Beaujolais Nouveau is that it gathers people and usually untied their tongues which inevitably lead to empty, never-ending conversations about the subject for a few days.

It used to be a great tradition up until a few years, but, gradually, over the last 2-3 years Beaujolais Nouveau has been overlooked for better wines and more interesting values, probably due to an over excessive dose of battering propaganda, mass marketing and more often lack of quality.

The phenomenon may still work in restaurants by the glass, but people have slowly abandoned the idea of buying Beaujolais Nouveau in wine stores to replace it with (or simply continue to buy) better wines at better value, or even straight Beaujolais Villages that are usually far better and more complex for about the same price or just a bit more.

What also happen is that people buy a bottle of Duboeuf for fun and also buy a bottle of a different producer like Dupeuble or Domaine de La Madone (by Jean Bererd et Fils) which are a bit more expensive, to compare them, the later being often the winner.

However, what I saw over the last few years are constant decreases of sales resulting in left over stocks of Beaujolais Nouveau bottles up until March of the next year. Every retailer will tell you that the turn over is not good enough. More over, most retailers usually end up by reducing the price of the last remaining bottles in January just to get rid of them. Even this year, we decide to go with only three producers and to only order 5 cases of each max (10-15 for the best seller, no name...) just to avoid having some left over in January (who wants to sell Beaujolais Nouveau in January?...so imagine March!).

People who know me well or/and follow this blog, knows that I'm very open minded and I try to keep my palate has open as possible to everything from everywhere without having any prejudices or try to discriminate a wine because of its color, its grape variety, its region of origin or its taste, because I believe that, as I always say, "Every wine should be tasted, even if every wine shouldn't be drunk!"

However, they will also tell you that I'm a pain in the butt, that even if open minded, I'm somewhat very picky and will tell you straight what I think about a wine, bad or not, and that I only love of a few and rare wine portfolios and wine importers/distributors in New York, like: Rosenthal, Louis Dressner, Jenny & Francois, Kermit Lynch, Martine Saunier, Peter Weygandt, Wineberry, Little Wine Company, The Wine List, Jan D'Amore, Maximilien Selection, Baron Francois, and a few more.... but more especially, they will tell you that I love odd wines and rare and lesser appreciated red grapes like: Gamay, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Cot, Tannat, Counoise, Cinsault, Carignan, etc...

In short, I like Beaujolais and even a few of the Beaujolais Nouveau, but I think there are better Gamay wines out there, if you really want to experience Beaujolais wines. That is why I decided to come with a list of alternative wines also made with Gamay and a few made with Cabernet Franc and other lesser known grape varieties to complement your Thanksgiving dinner and for you to enjoy through out the end of this year.

2007 Domaine Cheveau "Or Rouge" Beaujolais Villages Burgundy France

Suggested retail price $13-$16
Imported / Distributed by Madrose / Rosenthal wine merchants in NYC

The Domaine Michel Cheveau was created in the 1950s by André Cheveau and is now operated by his son, Michel, and his grandson, Nicolas. The family home and the cellars are situated in the heart of the village of Pouilly. A total of thirteen hectares of vineyards are owned and cultivated by the Cheveau family with the holdings spread out over a variety of villages and climats. The vineyards are worked without fertilizers and the harvest is done manually. After a gentle passage through a pneumatic press, the fermentation occurs in temperature-controlled conditions. The elevage is done either in stainless steel or in small and mid-size oak barrels, depending on the appellation and structure of the wine. Domaine Michel Cheveau makes balanced, fresh, focus and juicy wines from Macon-Chaintré & Fuissé, Saint-Veran, Beaujolais villages and Beaujolais cru Saint Amour.

Cheveau “Or Rouge” is a light yet generous, easy-drinking Gamay made from old vines. A Beaujolais Villages with great structure and length, it is fresh, smooth and fruity, ready to be popped and poured as an accompaniment to a variety of meats, pastas and cheeses.




2007 Domaine Granger Julienas Cuvée Spéciale Cru Beaujolais Burgundy France
Suggested retail price $20-$23
Imported / Distributed by Madrose / Rosenthal wine merchants in NYC

The Granger family has been involved in the production of grapes and the making of wine from father to son for over 200 years. Originally from the village of Chenas, for the last century the Grangers have lived and worked in Julienas. Pascal Granger, born in 1961, is now the owner and winemaker and guiding spirit behind the Domaine. He mainly produces Julienas where he possesses about 8 hectares, plus a small amount of Chenas, Moulin a Vent and Beaujolais Villages. After a careful selection from his best parcels of vines, he separates the wine destined to be the "Grande Reserve" from the cuvee designated "Cuvee Speciale". These special wines are usually aged longer in barrel, the Grande Reserve remains in small oak barrels for two years prior to being bottled without filtration.

The 2006 Pascal Granger Julienas Cuvée Speciale is very attractive, bright yet generous, balanced, harmonious and delicate with earthy notes. Its juicy, red fruit character nicely intermingled with elegant acidity and pure mineral texture complement the earthy, slightly tannic and touch rustic texture. It clearly benefited from its ageing in aok which ads an extra dimension without being overwhelming. Like most of Granget’s wines, this Julienas has high quality profile and taste



2006 Domaine de Chatelard Fleurie Cru Beaujolais Burgundy France
Suggested retail price $20-$23
Imported / Distributed by Wineberry in NYC

The Chateau is nestled in the small village of Lancie, located south east of Fleurie and Chiroubles, in the northern part of the Beaujolais appellation where some of the best soils and terroirs lay on gentle slopes of the rolling hills of the land of the "Crus". Chateau du Chatelard has a long established wine reputation and history. The Chateau, rebuilt in the XVIIIth century after being destroyed during the French Revolution, now belongs to Sylvain and Isabelle Rosier. This young couple is passionate about wine and terroir, making beautifully crafted Beaujolais with old vines, some were planted around 1955, under sustainable and Biodynamic culture: no herbicide, respect of the biological life of the soil, short pruning on accordance to the moon, working the soil, leaving the grass and maximum foliage completed by selected hand harvest at full maturity, to obtain the best, healthy grapes. The resulting wines are great, balanced, fruity and gentle, yet rich and complex without being too opulent.

The well-crafted 2006 Chatelard Fleurie Vieux Granits possesses lovely purity of fruit, with raspberry and blackberry flavors. The palate is quite rich, fruity and expressive with a velvety texture and a long finish carried by ripe acidity that lets the fruit and spice notes hang on.




2007 Domaine Chamonard Morgon "Le Clos de Lys" Cru Beaujolais Burgundy France
Suggested retail price $24-$27
Imported / Distributed by Savio Soares in NYC

Joseph Chamonard was part of a group of friends, amongst some of the best Beaujolais’ producers, including Marcel Lapierre, Guy Breton, Jean-Paul Thévenet, Jean Foillard, and their mentor late Jules Chauvet. Joseph Chamonard died in 1990, and his daughter Geneviève, helped by her husband Jean-Claude Chanudet, continued making supple and fruit forward Beaujolais wine in the same old traditional way, walking in the steps of her father with combined Biodynamic-organic methods and respect for the natural environment. Recently imported by Savio Soares in New York, Chamonard’s wines were barely distributed outside of the local market and were apparently difficult to find even in Paris. Now available in New York, Chamonard’s wines feature on the selection of some of the most established wine boutiques and restaurants.

The 2007 vintage is a classic in Beaujolais, and this Chamonard Morgon reveals the high quality of the vintage topped with an attractive Terroir driven attitude. The nose is very fragrant, with straightforward aromas of light cherry and raspberry, and earthy notes. Light to medium in body, the wine is perfectly balanced between full fruit and lively acidity, with a light touch of yeast on the finish.



2008 Chateau Soucherie Anjou “Vendanges à la main” Loire Valley France
Suggested retail price $14-$17
Imported by Rosenthal / Madrose

The Tijou family has a long history as "viticulteurs" in the Loire Valley region near Angers. In fact, they have practiced their craft, father to son, since 1780. Pierre-Yves Tijou, the current proprietor, took over the management of the estate in 1969 and began to bottle a portion of the production. Today, the entire production is estate-bottled. More well-known for their Chaume and Savennieres, the Domaine encompasses about 30 hectares of vineyards in highly regarded vineyards such as “Chaume” and “Clos des Perriers” of which 18 hectares are planted with Chenin Blanc to produce their flagship wines from the seclusive “Coteaux du Layon” and “Savennieres” area; and 7 hectares Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc; and there are small parcels of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Gamay. Treatments in the vineyards are kept to an absolute minimum as the objective is to produce a wine in as natural a manner as possible. All grapes are harvested manually as the “vendanges a la main” on the label means.

Made from 100% Cabernet Franc, the 2008 Chateau Soucherie Anjou is a small production, racy red, with black currant and red cherry fruit flavors intermingled with slight toasted notes. Pretty balance and dry with bright red berries in the palate and good tannic structure. Overall this wine is quite good with a brambly finish showing hints of tobacco leaf and spice.

(FYI: Soucherie label as Changed and is slightly different than the one above).




2006 Chateau Grand Traverse Gamay Noir Old Mission Peninsula Michigan
Suggested retail price $16-$20
Importer / Distributor "The Wine List" in NYC

When you think of Gamay Noir, the first Appellation that comes to mind is Beaujolais. For many of us, Beaujolais only represents "Beaujolais Nouveau" (soon to arrive in the store, by tradition, the 3rd Thursday of November each year) which doesn't inspire anymore and usually triggers strange, disgusted expression of antipathy on the face of your interlocutor. However, the "Crus" Beaujolais are much better and traditionally labeled with the name of the village of origin: Morgon, Fleurie, Moulin a Vent, etc...

Well, in my opinion, Chateau Grand Traverse Gamay Noir 2006 vintage is like a well crafted "Crus Beaujolais". This reserve quality red wine is a blend of roughly 96% Gamay Noir and a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon. It was aged for 20 months in small partly used oak barrels, thus "Reserve". the resulting wine is quite juicy, earthy and balanced. The robe is quite dense, bright, ruby red color with medium to light intensity. The nose bursts attractive fruity aromas of red berries, with distinct tart cherry, tough red plum mixed with earthy, black pepper notes. During its ageing period in barrels, it developed wonderful depth and complexity. The palate is quite juicy, bright and racy, a touch tart some may say, but very well balanced and fairly long with vivid ripe red cherry flavors intermingled with hints of spices, pepper and oak, leading toward the earthy and slightly smoky finish framed by integrated tannins.

Quite lovely I must say for my first Michigan wine, a bit high in acidity but nice fruit overall, juicy mouth-feel and pleasant texture. A very good example of Gamay Noir that will enhance savory foods such as grilled venison, stuffed bell peppers, grilled salmon, roasted duck, or wild mushroom pizza. At room temperature, it was perfect.



2008 GrosJean Frères "GrosJean Gamay" Vallée d'Aosta Olignan Quart Italy
Suggested retail price $18-$21
Imported / Distributed by Rosenthal / Madrose

Grosjean Frères winery is located on the border of the towns of Quart and Saint Christophe in the Valle d'Aosta, a small mountainous region of the Northwestern part of Italy. The vines planted initially, in addition to the traditional Petit Rouge, were Gamay, Pinot Noir and Petite Arvine, and currently are growing even as the native Fumin, Cornalin, Prëmetta and Vuillermin.

Although the family has for centuries made and keep wine (and nuts) for the long winter months in the mountains, everything really started in 1969, when the family members began to bottle their own wine for presentation at "The Exposition des vins du Val d'Aoste". It was this exhibition that stimulated the initiative that brought the company from 3,000 square meters to the actual 7 hectares of vineyards, with the involvement of the 5 children, thus the name "Grosjean Frères" (meaning Grosjean "brothers" in French).

Grosjean Frères is part of the Association of "Viticulteurs Encaveurs" Valdostan which brings together 24 small producers who were able to characterize the quality and typicality of their wines produced in the Valle d'Aosta DOC. This group of tenants has a close relationship with the land (Valle d'Aosta) and personally follows all stages of production, from vineyard to cellar to retail sale. The "Viticulteurs Encaveurs" devoted great attention to farming techniques and traditional vinification - handed down from father to son - and both are compared to new ideas and technologies, always with a view to use friendly and natural agriculture.

This wine is 100% Gamay from high altitude vineyards, from 600 to 750 m altitude, planted on steep slopes (30-60%) of loose soil of moraine with ideal south and south-west exposure. The wine was crafted in stainless steel tanks where it underwent a short maceration of 4-5 days, which explain the light color, and was then fermented. After fermentation, the wine rested for at least 3-6 months in stainless steel tanks to keep the freshness before bottling.

2008 Grosjean Frères Gamay Vallee d'Aosta is a great wine with lot of focus and brightness. Passed its light, bright transparent, red-ruby-pinkish-red onionskin color, the nose offers vivid mineral, light red cherry and floral notes intermingled with earth and smoke. The palate has an excellent balance with broad, quite deep red fruit flavors, well-integrated tannic structure and a racy, lifting acidity nicely carrying the fruit. The finish is quite dry yet juicy and refreshing with dry red cherry, flowers and more mineral and earth. Overall, even if not your everyday wine, this high altitude Gamay is really good with a beautiful, very broad smooth mouth-feel full of freshness. Serve it with simple dish like pasta, cold cuts and soups, or even fish.



And to finish this post, here are a few non-Gamay based wines that I really enjoyed lately:





2006 De Bortoli Petit Verdot Vat # 4 Southeastern Australia
Suggested retail price $12-$14
Imported / Distributed by Opici in NYC

The inspiration for the Vat Series came from the early days when Deen de Bortoli would personally chalk numbers on vats to mark them out. Vat is the term for the large vessels, usually made of oak and bigger than the barrels, still use in a lot of wine regions by many producers, to hold the maturing wine before it is ready for bottling. Petit Verdot is a grape originally from France, more precisely Bordeaux where it is normally part of the blend in small quantity. However, in Australia Petit Verdot thrives in sunny climate and due to a longer ripening season, it is more often bottled on its own.

This wine exhibits aromas of violets, concentrated plum and blackberry with spicy notes. On the palate, this Petit Verdot is a delightful wine with medium to full intensity and generous fruit without being heavy or too opulent. Balanced , rich and supple, well rounded yet with good acidity, it exposes sweet vanillin and spicy oak character mixed with darker fruits as the result of the 12 months ageing in American oak barrels before bottling. Pair it with quail, veal and smoke meats.



2005 Heredad de Baroja "Rincon de Baroja' Crianza Rioja Álava Spain
Suggested retail price $12-$15
Imported / Distributed by Moonlight Wine Co. by friend Tony Gibson

Established in 1964, by the way one of the best vintages of the 20th century in France and Spain, Bodegas Heredad de Baroja, located in the village of Elvillar, Rioja Álava (South of the Basque country), was born from the initiative of its current owner, Fernando Meruelo, who named it after a famous Spanish Basque writer. He started by producing young wines (tinto) under the name of “Cautivo” and gradually enhanced his “Cautivo”selection by crafting Crianza, Reserva and Grand Reserva as the vines were getting older, thus producing better, richer, more complex wines. Exporting activities started in 1989 and now represents more than 50% of his production and total sales.

The construction of a new winery, the success of his newer style wines “Cautum” and “Lar de Paula” and revamping the image of his more traditional style “Cautivo” wines led to a new era for Heredad de Baroja. His wines, especially the newer modern style received instantaneously a lot of praises and accolades from critics and press. Now equipped with state of the art technology in both facilities, the old and the new cellars, will also help to achieve the goal of making about 2 million bottles a year, of which half will be high-end wines ageing between 14 to 36 months depending on the final wines. Rincon de Baroja is part of his fairly new wine selection that includes: Cautum "Alta Expresión", Lar de Paula "Cepas Viejas", Rincon de Baroja CO2, Cautivo Maceración Carbónica.

The 2005 Rincon de Baroja Crianza is is a delicious Tempranillo based wine that offers ample dark fruit quality in an inexpensive package. Aged twelve months in French and American oak, its nose offers soft cherry and vanilla aromas. Smooth and full in the mouth, its rich fruity flavors are supported by fine tannins into an elegant, lingering cedar cherry finish. Enjoy with beef burgers, steaks, lamb and other hearty meats.

2007 Domaine des Terres Falmet Cinsault Vin de Pays d'Oc Languedoc France Suggested retail price $10-$13

Imported by United Estates Wine Imports and Distributed David Bowler in NYC

Domaine des Terres Falmet was established in 1996, in the little village of Cebazan, located southeast of Saint-Chinian (north of Narbonne and west of Beziers). The Domaine encompasses 25 hectares of contiguous vineyard plots planted on hillside with excellent sun exposure. The young and talented Yves Falmet, owner and winemaker, produces this well crafted Cinsault from vines that are more than 50 years old planted on very rocky, clay-limestone soil, so the resulting wine combines, character, length and depth with juicy fruit, mineral and good tannic structure. Moreover, with no filtration or no fining, this wine didn't lose any of its personality or varietal character.

I loved the previous vintage, and think the 2007 Terres Falmet Cinsault follows the same profile, attitude and charm. The robe is clean, bright ruby red with light intensity. The nose is quite expressive and inviting, Garrigues-like with freshly crushed wild red and dark berries aromas, touch floral, earthy and mineral. Overall light to medium bodied, the palate is quite lush with darker berries flavors than the nose, like blackberry, ripe dark cherry and blueberry, nicely lifted by a great acidity which adds balance, freshness and juiciness, especially in the mid-palate. Calling for another glass, the lingering finish is dry and earthy, a touch spicy, with present yet integrated, soft tannins.

Within the next few days, I will add a few more red and white wines that I just bought for the store and that will be perfect for the Winter season. I'll keep you posted soon!

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic and Organic wines (and Food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment!

My favorite under $12 reds of the moment

My favorite under $12 reds of the moment

Although, as a Wine Buyer, I always need to keep an extremely open mind and a consistent yet very eclectic palate toward the wines that I try, taste and more especially buy (ranging from the driest, acidic or tannic, most esoteric to the fuller, often way too ripe - for my taste - and alcoholic style of wine), I recognize that, like anybody else, I also have my favorite wines that correspond a bit more to my true palate and that I rather drink at home. In most cases, I like to be surprised, intrigued, pleased and even fascinated by the wines that I will buy and put on the shelves, and I like my customers to experience the same thing when they will try it.

You see, I love my job (not everybody can say that... isn't it?), and what makes it even more interesting and kept me going to work in the wine-business as a Wine Buyer - Sommelier and Wine Director for the last 18 years, is the fact that I have to understand, comprehend, learn about, dissect and analyze each wine that I taste everyday, not only to keep my palate sharp, trained and skilled, but also to be able to always provide, everyday, the best, most interesting and most eclectic choice of wines from all around the world to my customers.

And that's what I try do everyday at the store: please and satisfy the interest and the curiosity of my customers by sharing my knowledge with them, offering great service by trying to understand their palate, what they would like to drink and more especially respect their budget, but also trigger their interest by always trying to recommend them different wines from various countries to extend their experience.

There is nothing worst than to go shopping in a wine store where the staff has no knowledge, no passion and no conviction, and thus where the wines are boring and have the same type of taste profile due to a narrow minded wine buyer behind the wine selection on the shelves.

What I love the most and what usually pleases most of my customers, is that I usually do a good job in general by recommending the most appropriate wines (despite a few exceptions from time to time, nobody's perfect...), but my forté is the wines under $20 and more especially the wines under $15. As I always say: "I'm the King of under $15", and that for 2 reasons, first because I rather (and it is much more fun) sell 12 different bottles at $10 than 1 bottle at $120, and second, because (like most of my customers) these under $15 wines are the ones that I drink at home with friends and family, thus that I know the best and that I can more easily recommend with even more conviction and excitement.

The next 4 wines are part of these little gems that I had a lot of pleasure to suggest lately to my customers. I hope that if you'll try them and you'll agree with my choices. These are some of my favorites of the moment.

Enjoy them young, as an aperitif with hors d'oeuvres, but also with more sophisticated Fall-Winter dinner stews like: "Ragoût" (any stew), "Daube" (usually prepared with beef braised in red wine vegetables, garlic and herbes de Provence), a "Blanquette de Veau" (prepared with veal in a white sauce, but also be made with Lamb, Chicken or Rabbit) or even with a "gibier" (Game).

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2008 Henry Fessy "Château des Reyssiers" Regnié Crus de Beaujolais Burgundy France
Suggested retail price $10-$13
Imported by Louis Latour / Distributed by Mr. Touton Selections

Domaine of Henry Fessy produces wines for generations in the village of Saint-Jean-d'Ardières, located in the southern part of the Beaujolais region, east of Brouilly and west of Belleville (south of Macon and north of Lyon).

The ancestors of Serge and Henry Fessy, the Pellissier family, began to buy, grow and sell wines in 1888. Then, they bought a wine estate in the heart of Beaujolais ("Le Paradis") in Brouilly. After the first World War, Henry Fessy, the son in law of Jean Pellissier, became the successor and started to run the estate which now bears his name. It was a very distinguished man that inspired respect. He created the co-operative cellar of Bel-Air in 1928, and remained its President for more than 40 years.

In 1947, his son Georges took over the family estate and continued with dedication the work of his father helped by the rest of the family. Nowadays, the Domaine is run by Henry (named after is grand-father) and Serge Fessy, his little brother, who carefully take care of the 11 hectares of vines planted mainly in Brouilly and Beaujolais AOC, but also carefully select the grapes and wines that they will vinify, age, bottle and sell under their Négociant label. They also take care of the wines of different growers.

Today, including the resulting wines from their vines and the wines that they bought and vinified, they produce more than 2 millions bottles from a state of the art cellar facility which allow them to proudly insure the quality and the consistency of their wines. They are probably the only Négociant company in Beaujolais which completely vinify their own wines.

Domaine Henri Fessy produces quite a few wines from all the appellations of Beaujolais, the 2 generic and the 10 Crus: Beaujolais, Beaujolais Villages, Brouilly, Cote de Brouilly, Régnié, Morgon, Chiroubles, Juliénas, Chenas, Fleurie, St. Amour and Moulin à Vent.

Régnié was the most recently recognized cru of Beaujolais in 1988. Despite its resemblance with its nearby siblings Brouilly and Morgon, Régnié possesses it sown typicality which defines its personality.

2008 Henry Fessy "Château des Reyssiers" Regnié is a charming, easy going, light Gamay wine. The robe is light, bright ruby red. Developed aromas of red berries, like red currant and raspberry, with subtle floral perfume constitute the nose. In the palate, the attack is quite juicy and fruity, expanding nicely in a structured, elegant and supple mid-palate. The acidity carries the red fruit flavors with focus toward the lingering, fresh and dry finish. Quite well rounded without excessive tannins, this wine is well made, simple yet refined and charming, somewhat feminine and refreshing with a twist of earthiness. Enjoy it warm temperature with white meat and poultry, or even slightly chilled with fish or cheese.

Enjoy!

Info taken partly from the winery website at: www.vins-henry-fessy.com

LeDom du Vin

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2006 Cantele Salice Salentino Riserva Apulia Southeastern Italy
Suggested retail price $9-$11
Imported / Distributed by Vias Imports in NYC

2006 Cantele Salice Salentino Riserva is roughly a blend of 80% Negroamaro and 20% Malvasia Nera, from vineyards located next the village of Guagnano. After de-stemming, crushing, maceration of 6-7 days and fermentation, this Riserva wine aged in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks for 3 years with selected lots being transferred to French and American "barriques" (barrels) where they matured for at least six months to add more dimension and structure, before bottling.

The robe is quite intense, dark ruby red. The expressive nose exposes earthy aromas of ripe red fruits, spices and cigar box, woody notes. In the mouth, it is fruity, dry and earthy, quite full yet balanced by the tannins and great acidity to keep it fresh, almost crisp, with ripe red and dark fruit and hints of spices. Smooth and rounded in the finish, with gentle vanilla oaky notes, it is pretty easy going and perfect for simple dish and picnic, yet it structure and texture can definitely complement heavier and earthier "wintery" dishes, like roasted or braised beef or lamb. Perfectly fine with pasta and meat sauce. Ideal with medium to hard cheese.

Enjoy!

Also read my previous post on the 2004 vintage at www.LeDomduVin.com and you will find even more info on the winery website at www.cantele.it and on the distributor website at www.viaswine.com

LeDom du Vin

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2007 Domaine de Fenouillet Côtes du Ventoux Rhône Valley France
Suggested retail price $10-$13
Imported / Distributed by MadRose / Rosenthal in NYC

The Domaine de Fenouillet is situated in the village of Beaumes de Venise at the foot of the "Dentelles de Montmirail", the heart of the finest vineyard sites in the southern Côtes du Rhône. The Domaine has been in the hands of the Soard Family for many generations, until 1989 the grapes were harvested and immediately sold to the growers' cooperative. Vincent and Patrick Soard took over direction of the domaine in 1989 and, at that point, began to vinify their harvest and bottle the wines now made at the estate.

The Domaine: There are 16 hectares planted to grapes: 5.3 hectares devoted to Muscat to make the fabled Muscat de Beaumes de Venise; 7.7 hectares planted in the appellation of Cotes du Rhone Villages "Beaumes de Venise"; and 3 hectares within the Cotes du Ventoux appellation. Average production levels are 34 hectoliters per hectare yielding approximately 5,000 cases of wine per year.

The vineyards for the Beaumes de Venise Rouge are situated at an altitude of 350 meters and rest in soil composed of clay and chalk. The grape combination for the principal reds is: 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% old vines Mourvedre and 10% Cinsault.

Vinification: The entire harvest is done manually. The Muscat for the Muscat de Beaumes de Venise is picked at optimum levels of maturity to achieve maximum sugar concentration. Several passes through the vineyards and a severe selection of the individual clusters is done prior to fermentation. Crushing is done with a modern pneumatic press to extract the finest juice which is then fermented under temperature-controlled conditions for about 15 days. The fermentation is then stopped to leave the wine with residual natural sugar. The Muscat de Beaumes de Venise is normally bottled in the spring of the year following harvest. For the Beaumes de Venise Rouge and the Cotes du Ventoux, the varietals are harvested and vinified separately and then blended to create the final cuvees. The Cotes du Ventoux is vinified with the objective of making a fresh, fruity wine for current consumption. The Beaumes de Venise Rouge, with its component of old vines and concentration of Grenache, is solidly built, deeply colored and quite age worthy. There is an extended cuvaison to achieve maximum extract; the wines are aged in both "cuve" and barrel; and the bottling is done normally after two years of aging without being filtered. Beginning in 1995, the Soards have bottled a special cuvee of Beaumes de Venise Rouge known as "Cuvee Yvon Soard", in honor of their father. This extremely limited production wine is exclusively from old vines and provides an additional level of complexity and intensity.

2007 Domaine de Fenouillet Côtes du Ventoux Rhône Valley is a lovely, dry, bistro-ish red from the south of the Rhône Valley. Made of approximately 75% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 5% Carignan, the robe offers a medium to dark color in the glass, with good intensity. Soft, ripe red and dark berry aromas intermingled with earth, mineral and wild bush scent. The palate is softly textured, dry yet ample with generous dark, ripe fruit due to the Grenache and earthy notes. The finish also is earthy with some, fairly integrated yet a touch dry, tannins. Overall, here again, a well made wine with interesting features, good acidity and fruit, in a very versatile way. Appealing and bistro-ish, a quaffer for everyday, easy drinking with a bite of something, like: charcuterie, cold cut, cheese, grilled meat, chicken, etc...

Enjoy!

Info mostly taken from the Importer / Distributor website at www.madrose.com

LeDom du Vin

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2008 Château de Massiac Cuvée "Sentinelle de Massiac" (2nd wine) Minervois Languedoc France
Suggested retail price $9-$12
Imported / Distributed by Madrose / Rosenthal

France and Bernard Boudouresques own the Château de Massiac, located in Azille, a small village in the heart of the Minervois appellation south of one of the best Minervois' vineyards "La Liviniere"(also an appellation on its own since 1999), on the road between Carcassonne and Narbonne (Aude, western Languedoc, France).

Sentinelle, being the second wine of Château Massiac, is a blend of younger vines 50% Syrah and 50% Carignan, compared to the first wine which is normally older vines 75% Syrah and 25% Carignan, planted on rocky clay-limestone soils.

Here again a very bistro-ish wine, well balanced and easy going little red wine, with a soft, versatile and food friendly profile (everything that I love and that I'm looking for when I buy and drink a wine, somewhat my specialty... finding these little everyday gems: great wines at very affordable prices! I definitely love my job).

In the glass, it is dark in color and quite intense. The nose is clean, fresh yet ripe and gentle with dark fruit and blackcurrant aromas. The palate is very friendly, supple with nice ripe dark berry flavors mixed with earth and garrigues notes. Tannins are present yet integrated and the earthy finish is quite inviting. A really enjoyable sipper red for a very decent price, to appreciate all day long with cold cut, charcuterie, steak frites and other bistro food and easy going red meat dishes. Love it.

Enjoy!

I couldn't find much info about the winery and the importer Madrose/Rosenthal doesn't have any info on their website. However, here is their contact info: Massiac, Chateau de Massiac (alo under Domaine de Massiac) 11700 Azille - Tel: 04.68.91.49.92 (I like the wine so much, I will surely give them a phone call soon to ask for more info, may be I will write a post about it).

LeDom du Vin