Les Vignerons d’Estezargues & 2008 Domaine Grès St. Vincent Côtes du Rhône Villages Signargues

Les Vignerons d’Estezargues - Côtes du Rhône

Founded in 1965, the cooperative "Les Vignerons d’Estezargues" is located in the Côtes du Rhône “Gardoise”, in the French departement of the "Gard", in the small town of Estézargues, about 17.5 kilometers west of Avignon.

The cooperative regroups 10 different growers (or Domaines) and collects the fruits of 400 hectares of vines, mostly planted in the AOC Côtes du Rhône and AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages “Signargues” and its surroundings.

During the 1990s, the cooperative took a more qualitative orientation, with major changes made in the production and vinification processes. The sale of bulk wine trading has given way to the development of bottling at the property, which was crucial to increase consistency and quality. Bottling at the property has been expanding steadily since 1995, from the generic wines to the Domaine wines. This new policy also generated the development of sales at the cooperative’s store, where nearly half of the production is currently sold.

To further increase the sales and the quality of the produced wines, a new policy of vinification per "Domaine" was also launched, and, as a result, each of the 10 growers has his own Domaine’s Cuvée. The choice of doing individual vinification for each Domaine, highlights the work of each producer and their specific characteristics depending on their respective Terroir.

Therefore, starting in 1995, under the supervision of the winemakers, the ten different growers in this co-op began to vinify their wine separately and make single Cuvée from their best plots. Yet, collective tanks still remained to create the entry level wines that are blended with the fruits of all growers, like “Les Grandes Vignes” line.

Anxious to preserve the environment, the growers are engaged in a durable development system for their Domaine and the cooperative, which both embrace sustainable and organic farming and methods. Moreover, the growers also signed the charter “Terra Vitis”.

FYI: The “Terra Vitis” charter (or designation) was established in 1998 by a federation of French growers and small, premium wineries to promote healthy, high quality grapes, to maintain the diversity of the fauna, to minimize chemical treatments, and prevent erosion. The federation maintains criteria and oversees verification through inspections conducted by the Véritas inspection bureau, an independent agent that verifies compliance. Among other things, the "Terra Vitis" charter requires:

• Use of natural processes to control pests whenever possible and minimal use of chemical treatments
  

• Planting varietals appropriate to soil and the climate
  

• The use of ground cover and compost to provide habitat for useful micro-organisms and to prevent erosion
  

• Continuing education on organic control of pests and parasites
  

• Documentation of the winemaking process, literally, from the ground up
  

(Info about Terra Vitis courtesy of www.terlatowines.com)

To go further in quality, in 2004, the cellar invested in new equipment and winemaking process to expand and improve the winery.

Constant quality also can easily be reached because the cooperative benefits of the expertise and skills of these 10 growers united in the same cellar: each with his own identity and way of working, grape varieties and specific Terroir. The cooperative reveals their work, either through their specific Cuvées (the Domaines) or the generic wines, which are blended with the grapes of all growers.

In the cellar, unnatural yeasts, filtration and fining, as well as all technologies denaturing the wines are prohibited. The winemaking is done without sulfur and low temperature in order to make the most of fruit and Terroir potential.

The winery sells about 15 different wines, red predominantly and rosé and white, from 5 appellations: Vins de Pays du Gard, Costières de Nîmes, Côtes du Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages and Côtes du Rhône Villages "Signargues".

AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages "Signargues" was established in 2004 and is exclusively dedicated to red wines. It is the output of most southern vineyards in the AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages with a communal name. "Signargues" encompasses four municipalities: Estézargues, Domazan Rochefort du Gard and Saze.

We tasted only 4 of them out of the 15 that they produce, although most of them are in the US market, they are distributed by 3 different distributors in NYC; and from Jenny & François, the two following really captured my attention:



2009 D'Estezargues Les Grandes Vignes Rouge Côtes du Rhône France
Suggested retail price $10-$13
Imported / distributed by Jenny & François (Importer of Natural Wines) in NYC

Made from 100% Cinsault, 20 to 80 years old vines, planted on red clay based and stone strewn soil. Natural vinification method: hand harvested grapes. No external unnatural yeasts and no enzymes are used during the winemaking process. The bunches are de-stemmed and the fruit undergoes fifteen days of maceration; then the wine is stored in enamel-lined concrete tanks for 10 months before it is bottled without fining or filtration.

Made with 100% Cinsault, which is quite unusual for a Cotes du Rhone, 2009 Les Grandes Vignes rouge offers generous ripe dark fruit flavors, in a rich, juicy, earthy profile. Behind its deep ruby color, the nose develop warm, inviting and expressive aromas of dark berry, garrigues, chocolate and earth. The palate is gorgeous and friendly, full and rich, offering a lot of chocolate and ripe dark fruit flavors mingled with spicy, floral, earthy, garrigues notes. Balanced, with good tannic structure, this an excellent example of Cotes du Rhone. Even from a cooperative, it has nothing to envy to independent producers, on the contrary. Highly recommended for everyday drinking on "charcuterie", "paté", grilled red meat and cheese. I love it.




2008 Domaine Grès St. Vincent Côtes du Rhône Villages Signargues France
Suggested retail price $12-$15
Imported / distributed by Jenny & François (Importer of Natural Wines) in NYC

Patrick Vincent, the owner, grows 5 grapes going into this wine, which is a blend of 60% Grenache, 25% Syrah and the rest being Carignan, Mourvèdre and Cinsault, 20 to 80 years old vines, planted on Red clay covered in small stones soil. Natural vinification method: hand harvested grapes. No external unnatural yeasts and no enzymes are used during the winemaking process. The fruit undergoes twenty days of maceration and the wine is stored in enamel-lined concrete tanks for 10 months before being bottled without fining or filtration.

On the nose the initial freshness is quickly complemented by perfectly ripe red fruit, mingling with earthy, mineral, garrigues, Terroir oriented spicy notes. Domaine Grès St. Vincent is also a worthy representative of the new appellation “Signargues”; delivering the same type of flavors, the palate is balanced, structured and quite exquisite, juicy, rich and complex, yet harmonious, focus and elegant. It will pair greatly with earthy dishes, stews, rack of lamb, “Tete de Veau” and Boeuf Bourguignon, and flavorful cheese. Excellent.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken, translated and edited from the cooperative website at www.vins-estezargues.com and from the importer website at www.jennyandfrancois.com

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2006 La Vinsobraise Vinsobres AOC Cru des Cotes du Rhone France

La Vinsobraise Vinsobres AOC Cru des Cotes du Rhone France

For generations, the same families of winegrowers, which regroup about 250 men and women tending their vines, cultivated the hills of this small corner of Provence, in the heart of the Rhône Valley. In 1949, they decided to combine their talents and created a local cooperative, known as “La Vinsobraise”.

Vine has been cultivated here since ancient Rome, regrouping about 2000 hectares and 2000 years of history, enhanced by so much perseverance, knowledge and passion. Between the few last remaining century-old olive trees and rows of lavender, on arid soil bathed in sunshine, they have been producing amazingly concentrated and aromatic Syrah and Grenache grapes. With new technologies and techniques came new vinification processes. And nowadays, each parcel of vines is taken care of according to its individual needs, exposition and micro climate. It may be hard work, but they aim for high quality wines made in the most natural process possible.

As previously said, "Vinsobres" has always been a land of olive trees where the vine has always been present. However, in 1956, a massive frost destroyed many olive groves (14000 to 15000 trees) and therefore farmers preferred to convert the land to agriculture less sensitive to cold.

Logically, and gradually, Terroir characteristics started to be more pronounced in this young wines made from slowly aging vines. Therefore, with the quality of the produced wines increasing, the Appellation started to climb the ladder of recognition and promotion; thus followed a historic day, September 7th, 1957 when "Vinsobres", which was just a part of the generic Côtes du Rhône appellation, justifiably gained the rank of "Appellation Côtes du Rhône Villages Vinsobres".

About 50 years later, in mid-February 2006, the Appellation was once again rewarded for the high quality and consistency of its wines, and the previous name of "Côtes du Rhône Villages Vinsobres" gave way to the higher rank in the hierarchy of the Rhône Appellations, precising a more specific and delineated area, Appellation Vinsobres Controllée (in short, "Vinsobres" was not anymore a sub-appellation of another Appellation, it became an Appellation on its own). The geographical area now represents 1385 hectares and considers only the red wines, starting with the 2004 harvest.

The soil around Vinsobres extends over 7 km slopes, (ranging in altitude from 100m to 450 meters above sea level) around the villages of Mirabelle aux Baronnies and Piégon in the department of Drôme. Soils are mostly marl sandy or marl rocky on hillside and quaternary alluvium in stony terrace. The climate is Mediterranean and vineyards are planted on slope influenced by the near by Alps mountains and protected by the "Mistral" (a strong and cold wind, coming from the north, which accelerates when it passes through the valleys of the Rhône river to reach the Mediterranean sea in the Camargue region).



2006 La Vinsobraise Vinsobres Cotes du Rhone France
Suggested retail price $12-$15
Imported / Distributed by Maximilien Selections thru Fruit of the Vines in NYC

La Vinsobraise 2006 Vinsobres AOC "Cuvee Rustica" (named “Emeraude” in France, which is not mentioned on the American label) is a pleasurable red wine combining richness, balance and depth with earthy and mineral, stony notes. A blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah from 40 year old vines, the grapes were hand harvested and followed traditional fermentation in Stainless steel tanks for about 20 days with longer maceration for maximum extraction of all the needed components. The wine was then aged for 12 months in barrels, then clarified before bottling.

The resulting wine has an intense, dark ruby color. The nose expresses wild dark berries with earthy, floral notes and forest scents intermingled with spices, vanilla and red fruits. The palate is rich and chewy yet not heavy, with good balance and acidity, marked by firm but integrated tannins leading toward the long lasting finish. Côtes du Rhône Villages lovers that are looking for one of their favorites with a bit more guts should be please by this robust yet enjoyable red wine.

PS: (not that it really matters to me, because I can only express my opinions about a wine just after tasting it and I usually don’t pay attention to scores or medals, but I can understand that some people may attach some importance to certain accolades and ratings, so FYI: it received a Gold Medal at the 2007 Paris competition)

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info taken from the winery website at www.cavecooperative-vinsobres.com

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Domaine La Manarine: exquisite, balanced Côtes du Rhône wines

After my little homage to Neal Rosenthal, I would like to introduce you to "Domaine La Manarine", an estate from the Rosenthal portfolio producing exquisite, balanced Côtes du Rhône wines.

Côtes du Rhône

But first, I need to say a few words about Côtes du Rhône (or CdR in short). There are many Côtes du Rhône wines in this market and they are not all good, as one may think. People often ask:"Do you have a good Côtes du Rhône?" Well, it is a very vague question and fortunately wine boutiques and specialized cavistes like us usually narrow down their selection to the best and the more expressive ones that they can find.

You see, Côtes du Rhône is a huge and long appellation that emcompasses 2/3 of the Rhone Valley. Starting in the south of Lyon and produced roughly everywhere from Viennes to Avignon, which is quite a long drive, CdR wines can be made out of many different grape varieties (blended or not), predominantely Syrah and Grenache for Red and Rose and Grenache blanc for white, through out about 170 villages and communes.

Along that long hilly road following the Rhône River, Côtes du Rhône wines are made out many different terroirs, type of soils and micro-climates, and sun expositions, that really influence their taste, texture, intensity and complexity. More over there are different levels of quality. Let's say that usually the step up in quality (and price) from a regular CdR is the Côtes du Rhône Villages, with or without the village name on it, although it is better and offer more depth and character when the village name is on it, like Rasteau or Sablet (both extremely different, the former being stronger, bolder and riper, the latter being slightly more rustic and earthy, with higher acidity and juicier fruit) or Cairanne.

Like in Burgundy and Loire valley, knowing your Côtes du Rhône producers is the best way to make the best and safer choices. This way, you will find more regular satisfaction level and less annoying variances in taste and flavors.

As for any other wines, ask your local wine boutique for more details about which style of Côtes du Rhône Red you want to drink: juicy, earthy and not too heavy or riper, medium to full bodied, with more structure.

Just remember that Côtes du Rhône is an AOC that covers both the northern and southern sub-regions of Rhône. Wines from the high quality and major Northern and Southern AOC are rarely declassified into CdR wines, it will not make sense for the producers. Typically Côtes du Rhône is produced when the wine does not qualify for an appellation that can command a higher price (due to young vines or declassified wine, etc...) and when the vines are not in the appellation. Therefore, almost all Côtes du Rhône AOC wines are produced in the much larger southern Rhône, since the northern sub-region is mostly covered by well-known appellations of higher quality and standard and also is much smaller in terms of total vineyard surface.

Northern Rhône

The northern Rhône is characterised by its vineyards planted on steep slope overlooking the Rhône River, but also and more importantly by a continental climate with harsh winters and warm summers. Its climate is influenced by the mistral wind, which brings colder air from the Massif Central. Northern Rhône is therefore cooler than southern Rhône, which means that the mix of planted grape varieties and wine styles are slightly different than the Southern Rhône .

Northern Côtes du Rhône reds are predominantely made with Syrah, often mixed up to 15% with a touch of white grape varieties like Viognier, Marsanne and Roussane, to add freshness and balance. Somewhat lighter in color with earthy, dryer tannins, they usually have good acidity, touch of spice and a good structure, most are definitely age worthy, fairly fullbodied and somewhat more rustic than in the Southern part of the Rhone, with characteristic aromas of olive, meat and smoky bacon.

Southern Rhône

The southern Rhône sub-region has a more Mediterranean climate with milder winters and hot summers. Drought can be a problem in the area, and depending on the vintage and the necessity, limited irrigation is permitted. The differing terroirs, the steep slopes giving way to a broad valley floor, together with the rugged hilly landscape which partly protects the valleys from the Mistral, produce microclimates which give rise to a wide diversity of grape varieties and wines. Due to diurnal temperature variation, one major feature of the cultivation of the region is the use of large pebbles, also called "gallets", that cover the ground around the bases of the vines (and most of the vineyards of the plateau like around Châteauneuf du Pape) to absorb the heat of the sun during the day to keep the vines warm and restore the heat at night, because there is often a significant drop in temperature.

The southern Côtes du Rhône reds, made with Grenache predominantly, can appear fleshier, bolder, riper, rounder, somewhat more agreable and approcheable, with more integrated tannins. They are often characterized by their aromas of ripe black fruit, chocolate and "Garrigue" (represented often by the small wild bushes and herbs growing in the harsh soils and hot climate of the Southern Rhône and Provence, it is somewhat a concept or a notion that encompasses the Terroir itself, influenced by the Mediteranean wind and climate, combining earthy scents of undergrowth or wild bushes, herbs and plants like Rosemary, Thyme, Lavender, etc... and wild berry).

Once again, every palate is different and wine tasting is very subjective from one individuel to the next. More over, the producers' style may vary a great deal, so as I said earlier , like in Burgundy and Loire Valley, (it may be true for other regions in France, but more especially for these two), once you've found your style(s) and your producer(s), stick to them or you may end up spending a lot of money for nothing and be very disappointed.

Therefore, I bought 3 excellent little wines, good value for money and perfect for the approaching summer. All of this writing about Rhône make me thirsty, let's talk about Domaine La Manarine

Domaine La Manarine

Created in April 2001 by Gilles Gasq, and run with his wife Sylvie, Domaine La Manarine is a small owned family estate. The 9.5 hectares of vineyards are located within the commune of Travaillan, on a splendid plateau northeast of Orange, called Le Plan de Dieu (God's workfield). Gilles is a talented young winemaker who has honed his skills working as an assistant to Paul Jeune, the proprietor of Domaine de Monpertuis and Chateau Valcombe.

Gilles learned his lessons well. Using traditional winemaking, the resulting wines have excellent balance and high acidity, with great earthy notes and juicy fruit. They are less earthy and to some extend brighter than Domaine de Monpertuis and they are not as opulent and rich as Chateau de Valcombe, yet they match both in depth and complexity (in my opinion). Gilles surely applied techniques that he mastered in both estate, add a touch of that traditional viticultural heritage inherited from the older generations and adapted it to the microclimates and Terroir of his vineyards, in order to craft the best possible wines. And it shows.

As I explained it earlier, the round-oval limestone rocks or pebbles (called "gallets") are a distinct feature of the soil here. They impart character, facilitate drainage, and retain and radiate back heat during the cooler nights. Therefore, despite the lack of rain and the heat of the Mediterranean climate, Gilles is in a region blessed by Bacchus and Dyonisos (even if they are the same and unique wine god) where the quality of the Terroir, the characteristic of the soils and the diverse microlimates provide enormous potential to craft high quality, ripe and expressive wines.

Grenache Noir is the main grape variety of the region. It performs particularly well on this type of soil and gives wines with more elegance and aroma than is otherwise common (which also explain the elegance of his wines). Gilles has recently acquired one hectare of Syrah vines that will enter into the 2002 harvest which will then enable the Manarine wines to bear the appellation: Côtes du Rhône Villages ­ Travaillan.

Gilles vinifies two different cuvées from separate plots of vines. Both are 100% Grenache Noir. His first cuvée, the Côtes du Rhône, is made from his younger vines (average 25 years old). The second cuvée, destined for aging and called "Terres Saintes", is made from a selection of lower yielding old vines (average 45 years old).

Gilles destems the entire harvest and uses cement tanks for fermentation. The Côtes du Rhône undergoes fermentation and maceration for 18 days; the "Terres Saintes" (structured as a "vin de garde") benefits from a longer "cuvaison" of 30 days. During the "elevage" both wines go through "delestage" and "remontage" (a technique whereby the tank is completely emptied and the wine pumped back into it on top of the layer of skins) to extract color and flavor. In addition, 20% of the "Terres Saintes" is aged for 8 months in "demi-muids" or large barrels. Gilles also produces a Côtes du Rhône White and a Rosé.

2008 Domaine La Manarine Côtes du Rhône White Travaillan France
Suggested retail price $13-$15
Distributed by Rosenthal in NYC

A blend of predominantly Grenache Blanc and Clairette, La Manarine white CdR is clean, fresh, very mineral with bright acidity, which is somewhat rare yet desired to avoid flabiness. The nose combines white fruit, peach blossom and light touch of golden apple. The palate is fairly light, vivid, balanced with an excellent texture and minerality. Lighter, brighter with less fat than previous vintage, but it works for the better in this case, especially with the summer approaching. Super summery and probably one of the most interesting white rhone that I tasted since Chateau L'Ermitage White (except that L'ermitage is a fuller wine, better for colder season, see my post on it).

2008 Domaine La Manarine Côtes du Rhône Rosé Travaillan France
Suggested retail price $10-12
Distributed by Rosenthal in NYC

A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault, La Manarine Rose CdR is also light and bright with racy acidity and a very good balance. Floral with light notes of wild red berries, quite harmonious with good depth, elegance and freshness, it is a really enjoyable wine that has a nice way to coat the palate. Here again mineral and brighter rather than being full or super fruity (like some CdR rose can be). Love it. Simple and thrist quenching. To enjoy as an aperitif with charcuterie, cold cut, raw vegetable.

2006 Domaine La Manarine Côtes du Rhône Rouge Travaillan France
Suggested retail price $12-14
Distributed by Rosenthal in NYC

A blend of predominantly Grenache and the other usual suspect red Rhone grapes, La Manarine Red CdR is a nice, healthy, clean, earthy, juicy Côtes du Rhône with great acidity and light garrigue character. Here again, fresher rather than being full or over ripe, it is a traditional, earthy, gentle wine with personality. It displays red and dark cherry, touch of spice, earthy note, good juicy fruit and a versatile mouthfeel.

My overall view of these wines and the "Domaine La Manarine" is "balance and harmony", nothing too opulent or over extracted, just plain, simple yet balanced, harmonious and bright Côtes du Rhône wines. Definitely a good value on the shelves. A Domaine to follow, presenting straight forward, versatile attitude and solid consistency.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken from www.Madrose.com and www.wikipedia.org

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