What are the differences between
Japanese and Scotch Whisky?
I was recently requested to help sell Scottish and Japanese whisky to a private buyer. Although I could be considered an expert in wine due to my 33 years of experience in buying, selling, managing, promoting, writing about, and serving as a sommelier and wine buyer, I must admit that my knowledge of spirits, and particularly whiskies, despite enjoying some occasionally, is not as extensive as I thought it was.
So, to prepare for the sale, I had to research and learn more about whiskies, especially the differences between Japanese and Scotch whisky, as the private buyer targeted those. As always, this inspired me to write a post about my findings and share them with you.
In summary, Japanese whisky is generally lighter, less
smoky, and more experimental, while Scotch whisky offers a broader range of
flavors rooted in tradition and regional styles.
The main differences between Japanese and Scotch whisky lie in their origin, production, flavor profiles, and regulations.
Yet, as the history, places, and numbers of distilleries in Scotland would be too long to explain and summarize, I will focus mainly on general facts about Japanese Whisky for this post.
Japanese Whisky Historical Context (**)
To provide context, Scotch whisky has a centuries-old heritage that dates back to at least the 15th century. The earliest written mention is from 1495. Whisky (in Scotland, England, Canada, and Japan) or whiskey (in Ireland and the USA) is a spirit with Celtic origins.
Although its exact origin remains uncertain, Scotland and Ireland played pivotal roles in its development. The Irish named it "usquebaugh" (or uisce beatha), while the Scots called it "uisge beatha," both meaning "water of life."
This is a direct translation from Latin, "aqua vitae," meaning "water of life." The term reflects the historical belief that distilled spirits like whisky had medicinal qualities and were viewed as a life-sustaining elixir.
Eventually, this spirit spread to England, gaining popularity there, where the name was Anglicized to whisky.
Ireland first used the word "whiskey" in 1875; the "e" was added to help distinguish its produce from that of its Scottish counterparts in the American market. The US adopted the word "whiskey" instead of "whisky."
On the other hand, the story of Japanese whisky only began in the 1920s. Inspired by Scotch, it was developed with Japanese craftsmanship and local influences.
Although whisky production in Japan began around 1870, the first commercial production started in 1923 upon the opening of the country's first whisky distillery, Yamazaki.
It all began with two influential figures in Japanese whisky history: Shinjiro Torii and Masataka Taketsuru. Torii, a pharmaceutical wholesaler, founded Kotobukiya (now Suntory). He initially imported Western liquor and created the "Akadama Port Wine" brand, based on Portuguese wine, achieving success. Unfulfilled, he pursued his true passion: crafting Japanese whisky for locals. Despite opposition from local executives, Torii built Japan's first whisky distillery in Yamazaki, a Kyoto suburb known for its excellent water.
Torii hired Taketsuru as a distillery executive. After studying distilling in Scotland, Taketsuru returned to Japan in the early 1920s to recreate the style of Scottish whisky. While working at Kotobukiya (now Suntory), he assisted Torii in establishing the "Yamazaki" Distillery.
A few years after opening the distillery and allowing enough time for aging, the first whisky produced in Japan was the Suntory Shirofuda, released in 1929.
In 1934, Taketsuru left to form "Dainipponkaju" (later renamed Nikka) and established the "Yoichi" distillery in Hokkaidō.
Following World War II, the popularity of Japanese whisky grew in the 1950s. At that time, the three major brands—Suntory, Daikoku Budoshu (later known as Mercian Corporation), and Nikka—competed against each other, resulting in the "whisky wars."
Pairing whisky with Japanese cuisine gained traction in the 1960s, and the "Bottle keep" system became common in bars. Drinking mizuwari, a whisky mixed with two to two-and-a-half times the amount of water, also became popular.
In 1971, restrictions on whisky trade were lifted, allowing Japanese importers to bring in foreign whisky without limits. In 1973, Kirin Company entered the whisky business.
After peaking in 1983, whisky consumption in Japan declined significantly, falling behind beer, shōchū, and sake. By 2008, only 20% of the 1983 level of consumption remained.
Between 1983 and 2008, the decline in whisky consumption in Japan led to a halt in production and the closure of distilleries due to decreased demand.
In fact, before 2000, the market for Japanese whiskies was predominantly domestic. However, this changed in 2001 when Nikka's 10-year-old Yoichi single malt received the "Best of the Best" award at Whisky Magazine's awards. From then on, Japanese Whisky slowly gained more international recognition.
Bob Harris (Bill Murray) - For Relaxing Times, Make it Suntory Time! Scene -
Snapshot courtesy of 'Lost in Translation' 2003 (written and directed by Sofia Coppola)
In 2003, the film "Lost in Translation", starring actor Bill Murray’s character Bob Harris, popularized Japanese whisky in real life from his famous fictional Japanese “Suntory Time” commercial, featuring 17-year-old blended Hibiki.
At the 2003 International Spirits Challenge, Suntory's Yamazaki won a gold medal. In 2004, 18-year-old Yamazaki entered the U.S. In the following years, Japanese whiskies, especially from Suntory, have won top honors in international competitions, further cementing and increasing the reputation of Japanese whisky worldwide.
As the rest of the world witnessed the gradual rise of Japanese whisky, whisky's declining consumption in Japan experienced a renaissance around 2008, thanks to the highball craze (a mixed drink of an alcoholic base and a larger proportion of a non-alcoholic mixer, often carbonated) and renewed demand.
In 2008, the Chichibu distillery began operations, marking the first new whisky production license granted by the Japanese government in 35 years. The success of this distillery has encouraged sake and shōchū companies, along with businesses from other sectors, to venture into the whisky market, leading to the construction of distilleries all over Japan.
As of 2011, there were about nine active whisky distilleries in Japan. As of October 2022, there were 59 whisky distilleries in Japan, including those under construction and those planned.
Suntory whiskies continued to win gold medals annually through 2013, with all three malt whiskies earning trophies in 2012 (Yamazaki 18 years old and Hakushu 25 years old) or 2013 (Hibiki 21 years old). Suntory also received the distiller of the year award in 2010, 2012, and 2013, inspiring Japan's distilleries to pursue international markets.
Japanese whisky has won the world's highest award in some category at the World Whiskies Awards, organized by Whisky Magazine, each year from the inaugural event in 2007 until 2022. Whisky Magazine has conducted a series of blind tastings that have included Japanese single malts and malts from distilleries regarded as some of the best in Scotland. On multiple occasions, the results have shown that Japanese single malts (particularly those from Nikka's Yoichi and Suntory's Yamazaki) scored higher than their Scottish counterparts.
Whisky Distillery Procedure
As Japanese whisky was inspired by Scotch whisky, it generally follows the same production process. In brief, the whisky distillation procedure consists of several stages: malting, mashing, fermentation, distillation, maturation, and bottling. First, the grain is malted to convert starches into fermentable sugars. This is followed by mashing, which extracts the sugars from the grain. Fermentation then transforms the sugars into alcohol, which is concentrated through distillation. Finally, the whisky is aged in oak barrels for at least three years and bottled for consumption.
The only things that might differ are using different grains, distillation processes (using Copper Pot Still or Continuous Column Still), adding caramel for color and taste, and the type of wood used in the aging process, depending on the desired style. These differences only rely on the distillery style, traditions, and geographic location.
Differences in Production
As mentioned, Japanese whisky commercial production only began in the 1920s and primarily gained popularity from the 1950s. However, there were only a few distilleries then, and production quantities were limited. Furthermore, between 1983 and 2008, the decline in whisky consumption in Japan caused a halt in production and the closure of distilleries due to reduced demand. This explains why some whiskies are extremely rare and expensive, as they were never produced again.
Additionally, the high demand and low supply, combined with tiny production and the increasing popularity of Japanese whisky over the last 15 years, drove prices up, especially for rarer products.
Even though the number of distilleries increased from 9 in 2011 to 96 in 2024 (103 if we count the ones under construction and planned), offering more accessible mass-market whiskies to satisfy local and worldwide demand, Japanese Whiskies generally remain more expensive than Scottish whiskies.
Scotland has been the biggest producer of whisky in the world for at least 100 years. Some have been producing Scottish whisky for centuries among the hundreds of distilleries scattered all over Scotland. Moreover, except for some special cuvees and limited editions, most distilleries in Scotland produce rather large quantities of their flagship whiskies compared to Japanese distilleries.
Numerous Japanese distilleries create small batches of whisky, prioritizing quality over quantity. This limited output produces a scarcity of specific whiskies, driving up demand and prices. As a result, collectors and enthusiasts frequently pay a premium for these rare and exclusive bottles.
Differences in Philosophy and Style
Japanese whisky emphasizes refinement, balance, and technical precision, prioritizing smoothness and complexity over intensity. Scotch whisky highlights tradition and consistency, often preserving centuries-old flavor profiles.
The water sources and the type of wood used for the barrels impart different tasting notes. Japanese producers use a rare Japanese oak tree called Mizurana to mature their whisky, creating a flavor consumers won't get from Scotch. In contrast, Scottish distilleries generally prefer ex-bourbon or sherry barrels.
Japanese whisky often employs various distillation methods, including copper pot stills and continuous column stills, low pressure, and multiple yeasts, to create flavor profiles.
Scotch whisky typically uses traditional pot still distillation; in some regions, peated barley is incorporated to impart a smoky flavor.
Although both Japanese and Scotch whisky must be aged for at least three years in oak casks, their styles differ because Scotch must be distilled and matured in Scotland under strict regulations, using malted barley and occasionally other grains, generally aged in Sherry or Bourbon casks.
Meanwhile, Japanese whisky, modeled after Scotch, has fewer legal restrictions, allowing for more experimentation with various grains (barley, corn, wheat, rice) and cask types (sherry, bourbon), including the rare Japanese Mizunara oak, which imparts unique flavors.
Climate also influences their differences in style, as Japan’s hot summers and cold winters accelerate whisky maturation, creating deeper flavors in a shorter time than Scotland’s cooler and more humid climate, which retards aging.
As a result, Japanese whisky tends to be lighter, more delicate, and less peated, often featuring floral, fruity, and spicy notes. Scotch whisky varies widely but is generally smokier and peatier, especially those from coastal or island regions where peat is used extensively in malting barley.
Japanese whisky is recognized for its elegant, refined style. At the same time, Scotch is known for its diverse and often more pronounced spirits, usually boasting stronger peated and smokier flavors than its Japanese counterparts.
Nikka Whisky Single Malt Yoichi is likely the Japanese whiskey most resembling Scotch. Founder Taketsuru selected Yoichi in Hokkaido for its similarity to Scotland, especially its relative climate. Nikka Yoichi presents similarities with Scotch with aromas and flavors such as grass, peat, smoke, and fruits.
Prelude to the regulations
Despite a few details, regulations for Japanese whisky are now similar to those for Scotch whisky.
Yet, until the most recent regulations in 2024, the rules for Japanese whiskey were not as strict and allowed certain flexibilities, which are now regarded as unlawful.
In 1971, restrictions on the whisky trade were lifted, allowing Japanese importers to bring in foreign whisky without limits. Japanese importers and distilleries started to blend some Japanese whiskies with scotch. Back then, this practice was authorised to make Blended Scotch. The distilleries were only a few; thus, consumption and demand were larger than the supply, so blending Japanese whisky with scotch was an easy solution to fix the problem.
However, as mentioned earlier, between 1983 and 2008, Japanese whiskey consumption decreased, leading to the closure of some distilleries and a halt to production. Yet, simultaneously, from the early 2000s, Japanese whiskey was gaining popularity with consumers in the Western world, receiving more recognition from critics and winning more medals in international competitions.
Consequently, prices started to rise, and limited editions of older Japanese whiskies, which were no longer produced (due to the closure of the distilleries and halt of production), began to trigger the interests of connoisseurs and collectors, often reaching record heights at Auctions in the 2000s and 2010s, led by brands such as Yamazaki, Hibiki, Karuizawa, Ichiro and Nikka.
Karuizawa, for instance, is a legendary distillery located on the slopes of the volcanic Mount Asama, known for producing heavyweight whiskies primarily for blending, with few bottled as single malts prior to the site’s closure in 2000. After Karuizawa was dismantled, the remaining casks were distributed among a select group of bottlers who appreciated their unique character and quality. Many of these were ex-sherry casks that resulted in dark, rich whiskies with an exceptionally complex profile. Series such as the Karuizawa Geishas from Elixir Distillers are celebrated worldwide and remain among the rarest and most expensive Japanese whiskies ever bottled.
This situation led to an increase in the number of fake and counterfeit Japanese whiskies on the market, often made with imported whiskies blended and sold with false Japanese labels. Yet, it also increased consumption and demand in the Japanese market (and worldwide).
In 2008, the Japanese government started to grant permission to build new distilleries to increase the supply and satisfy the demand. Japanese whisky became very lucrative, and by 2022, the number of distilleries had evolved from 9 in 2011 to 59 in 2022, to a staggering 96 in 2024.
However, despite the rise in distilleries and counterfeit products, regulations continued to permit practices that fell into grey areas, producing Japanese whiskies of doubtful provenance, often blended with whiskies from other countries, for about 15 years before stricter rules were established.
To address the issue, in 2023, the Japan Spirits and Liqueurs Makers Association (JSLMA) established a set of guidelines for its members to clarify the definition of Japanese whisky, to be called ‘Japanese Whisky’. These new regulations were implemented in 2024.
These regulations apply solely to JSLMA members and are not legally enforceable, which may lead to some uncertainty about the source of certain whiskies in the future. However, since all the major producers in Japan are members, the presence of "Japanese Whisky" on the label will strongly suggest its production method and origin.
What is now called "Japanese World Whisky" still exists. It results from blending whiskies distilled and aged in Japan, often completed with a percentage of foreign whiskies. These are, therefore, legitimate Japanese whiskies but do not fully meet the criteria of the JSLMA specifications.
Differences in Regulations
Japanese whisky
For a Japanese whisky to be called Japanese whisky, it must:
- Produced in Japan and conforms to strict regulations
- Fermented, distilled, aged, and bottled in Japan
- Aged in Japan for a minimum of 3 years in wooden casks
- Use primarily malted grains, but may also include other cereal grains
- Use water sourced in Japan
- Saccharification (conversion of starches into sugars, or mashing), fermentation, and distillation must occur at a Japanese distillery
- Plain caramel coloring may be used
- Bottling must occur only in Japan
- Alcohol content must be at least 40% ABV when bottled
- Distillation must result in a spirit less than 95% ABV
Japanese whiskies that don’t meet the above requirements may not use the names of geographical locations in Japan, the Japanese flag, or the names of people that evoke the country in their labeling.
Scotch Whisky
Scotch Whisky must be produced in Scotland and conform to strict regulations. It must be distilled at a distillery in Scotland from water and malted barley (to which only whole grains of other cereals may be added), all of which have been
- Processed at that distillery into a mash
- Converted at that distillery into a fermentable substrate only by endogenous enzyme systems
- Fermented at that distillery only by the addition of yeast
- Distilled at an alcoholic strength by volume of less than 94.8 per cent so that the distillate has an aroma and taste derived from the raw materials used in, and the method of, its production
- Matured only in oak casks of a capacity not exceeding 700 litres
- Aged only in Scotland and for not less than three years; to retain the colour, aroma, and taste derived from the raw materials used in, and the method of, its production and maturation;
- to which no substance has been added, or to which no substance has been added except—
- water;
- plain caramel colouring; or
- water and plain caramel colouring; and
- that has a minimum alcoholic strength by volume of 40%.
Types of Japanese and Scotch Whisky
As you can see from the picture above, except for Koji and eventually some rare limited editions, the types of Japanese and Scotch whisky are roughly the same:
- Single Malt: from one or more casks of single Malt, made from 100% barley, in one distillery, distilled in a Copper Pot Still and aged for at least 3 years in oak barrels (Sherry, Bourbon, Mizunara, or others), before bottling.
- Blended Malt (also known as Pure Malt or Vatted Malt, Vatting = Mixing or Blending): usually a blend of several "Single Malts" from various casks, from one or more distilleries, traditionally distilled in a Copper Pot Still (but some distilleries might use a Column Continuous Still) and aged for at least 3 years in oak barrels (Sherry, Bourbon, Mizunara or others), before bottling.
- Single Grain: from one or more casks of single Grain, unmalted or malted barley, combined with other grains (Maize or Wheat), in one grain distillery, distilled more commonly with a Column Continuous Still or a Copper Pot Still, and aged for at least 3 years in barrels (Sherry, Bourbon, or others), before bottling. It might be a little confusing, but contrary to popular belief, "Single Grain" does not mean "made from only one grain" but "made from a single distillery", and may contain other whole grains in the ingredients list. It is traditionally distilled in a Column Continuous Still, and aged for at least 3 years in oak barrels (Sherry, Bourbon, Mizunara or others), before bottling.
- Blended Grain: usually a blend of several "Single Grain" whiskies, from several Single Grain Distilleries, distilled more commonly in a Column Continuous Still, and aged for at least 3 years in oak barrels (Sherry, Bourbon, Mizunara or others), before bottling.
- Blended Scotch: usually a blend of one or more malt whiskies with one or more grain whiskies, distilled in several distilleries in a Column Continuous Still, and aged for at least 3 years in barrels (Sherry, Bourbon, or others), before bottling. Blended Scotch is by far the most popular category, with about 9 out of every 10 bottles sold worldwide being a blend.
- Koji Whisky: Originally known as Japanese Rice Whisky, it is basically a barrel-aged shochu (Japanese distilled spirit). It is usually made with locally grown rice or unmalted barley to which Koji rice mold is added. This mold helps ferment the barley instead of the usual yeasts. If made with rice, the koji mold helps saccharify the grains or convert their starches to sugar (a process generally using malted barley or enzymes (yeasts) to produce barley-based Scotch and other Japanese whisky). It is usually distilled in a Double Pot Still, and aged for at least 3 years in oak barrels (White American Oak, Sherry, Bourbon, Mizunara or others), before bottling.
We could add a category called " Single Cask " to this list of Japanese and Scotch whisky types.
- Single Cask: a premium class of whiskey where each bottle is sourced from an individual aging barrel rather than being blended from multiple barrels to achieve uniformity in color and flavor. The cask is usually selected for its exceptional taste, color, and flavor due to longer aging in the barrel. One cask only produces limited bottles, indicating the cask and bottle numbers on the label.
Last but not least, the vintage and any other numbers on the label (other than the cask and bottle numbers).
It might be confusing, but vintage bottles may indicate either the vintage or the number of years of aging, or both.
- The vintage: A vintage on the bottle corresponds to the year the whisky was distilled and filled into the oak cask, not the year it was bottled. (e.g., 1973)
- The number of years of aging: A two-digit number on the bottle corresponds to the years the whisky has been aged in the casks (e.g., 30 Years Old). Whisky maturation, or aging, in oak barrels greatly influences the flavor and aroma of the final product. The legal minimum aging time for Scotch whisky is three years, although some whiskies are aged for much longer, even decades. The longer a whisky ages, the more it interacts with the oak, imparting flavors from the wood. While age is a factor, it's not the sole determinant of quality; other factors like cask type, distillation, and blending also play a crucial role.
NB: If the Scotch is a blend, the age stated on the bottle refers to the 'youngest' whisky used; 12, 15, and 18 years are usually the most popular.
- Both vintages and the number of years of aging: when all 3 numbers are stated on the main label and/or the back label:
- The oldest vintage corresponds to the year of distilling (e.g., 1975)
- The youngest vintage corresponds to the year of bottling (e.g, 2005)
- The 2-digit number corresponds to the year of aging in between (e.g, 30 years)
NB: This last category with the 3 numbers usually applies to a single cask; therefore, the cask and bottle may also appear on the main or back label. These are usually the rarest and most expensive whiskies, commanding hefty prices.
If the bottle does not list any numbers, typically for blended whisky, it indicates that it is a very young whisky aged for the minimum requirement of 3 years before being bottled.
Conclusion
At the end of the day, the choice between Japanese and Scotch whisky primarily depends on style, origin, geographic location, quality of the water used, types of yeasts, distillation process, types of oak used for aging, and aging duration; the longer it is aged, the more flavors and tastes the wood imparts. Most importantly, similar to wine, it ultimately comes down to personal preference shaped by mood, context, setting, company, and surroundings. Personally, I appreciate both, especially with a good cigar as a digestif.
Voila! That's all, folks, for today! There is undoubtedly much more to discuss when it comes to Japanese vs. Scotch, but I tried to keep it simple and to the point, with only the necessary details. If I forgot something or you think certain things could be added, let me know, and as always, I will oblige.
Cheers! Santé!
Dom
(*) This is my latest collage creation. It is the header image of a post about Japanese vs. Scotch Whisky that I'm working on. I thought having a Samurai and a Scottish Bagpiper face each other on side-by-side bottles was an interesting idea. What do you think? The red circle and the white cross on a blue background subtly symbolize the flags of each country. They add a "je ne sais quoi" to the bottles, making them distinctive (despite their shapes). 😊
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