Anthonij Rupert Wyne South Africa

Anthonij Rupert Wyne South Africa

On Friday March 31^st, I had the pleasure to meet Alec Louw, Sales Executive Europe and Asia for Rupert Wines, who came to our company Chinese restaurant “Dynasty Garden”.

He was having lunch with Melody, On-Trade Sales Manager at ASC Fine Wines in Hong Kong, the distributor of Rupert Wines in Hong Kong, and in the meantime introduce our Sommelier Team a few wines from the winery’s portfolio.

Anthonij Rupert Wines Tasting -
Alec Louw from Rupert Wines and Melody from ASC
March 31st 2017 at Dynasty Garden Restaurant Kowloon Bay Hong Kong
LeDomduVin ©  

I did not know and never had the pleasure to taste Rupert Wines previously, and I need to admit that I was pleasantly surprised.

South African wines always made me have a pucker face in the past, as often too smoky, too tarry, too astringent or green, often unbalanced or inharmonious, and also too hearty but in a bad way, even sometimes smelling like the melting asphalt of a road scorched by the sun in the middle of summer.

Yet, I need to admit that my opinion has changed as I tasted better South African wines over the last 5-6 years, with better balance and overall harmony, less impregnated or marked by what I consider being “flaws” cited above.   

Rupert Wines surprised me by their gentle, easy going modern attitude and approachable drinkability.

Anthonij Rupert Wyne at L’Ormarins is located in Stellenbosch, about 62 km east of Cape Town on the Route 45, in a breathtaking décor at the feet of the Groot Drakenstein Mountains.

L'Ormarins - Groot Drakenstein Moutains
Courtesy of www.rupertwines.com 

“Anthonij Rupert Wines, founded in 1969 by the Rupert family, has over 300 years of wine making history on the L’Ormarins property. It has quickly become the benchmark reference for ultra premium wines from South Africa. The winery is now owned by Johann Rupert who is also the major shareholder of Richemont Group, which owns Cartier, IWC, Piaget, Dunhill, Montblanc, Chloé, Panerai and many other world renowned brands.” 

(Text courtesy of ASC - http://www.asc-wines.com/?portfolio=anthonij-rupert)

The interesting part of Rupert Wines is that they are creative and innovative, combining old tradition with modern techniques, and above all environment friendly in their ways of producing, ageing and even dressing their wines (capsules, corks and labels). Their labels for the PROTEA wines range are just like pieces of Art designed by acclaimed designer Mark Eisen. 

Image courtesy of www.drinksfeed.com

Soon, they will even get more innovative and active in an eco-friendly manner by replacing the traditional cork of some of their wines, with the latest invention of 2 of the world leaders of corks and wine packaging “Amorim and O-I” called the “Helix” Cork. A revolutionary cork with a twist created as an alternative against metallic and plastic screw-caps, which respect for both the wine and the environment.

Picture courtesy of www.amorimcork.com 

Here is a short video about Helix Cork to better understand how it works (courtesy of Amorin Cork Italia)

Read more about Helix cork on Amorin website at http://www.amorimcork.com/en/products/catalogue/helix/

That day, we tasted the following wines

Anthonij Rupert Wines Tasting -
Protea Chenin Blanc 2015 and Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
March 31st 2017 at Dynasty Garden Restaurant Kowloon Bay Hong Kong
LeDomduVin ©

2015 Anthonij Rupert “Protea” White Chenin Blanc South Africa

About 12.5 EUR, 13.5 USD or 105 HKD a bottle

An appealing wine for younger and more feminine generations (as well as amateurs) with an attractive and recognizable painted label design created by world renowned designer Mark Eisen. Environment friendly the small label is easily removable and made of recycled paper, even the paint is also 100% recyclable and heavy metal free. Outside of the packaging, is the wine good will you ask? 

Well… it is definitely very enjoyable and dry compared to all the sweet Chenin from South Africa out there, which is a characteristic that I enjoyed (tired of this sweet Chenin that taste like nothing). Think about simple outings, like BBQ with friends, a nice day on the beach, light and fresh food… easy going, nothing too complex, it is made for relaxing time and nothing else to think about….     

2014 Anthonij Rupert “Protea” Red Cabernet Sauvignon Franschhoek Valley South Africa

About 4 EUR, 4.5 USD or 36 HKD a bottle

Like the Chenin Blanc above, nice and easy going, juicy and approachable, maybe somewhat slightly less appealing to my palate, but I rather let you judge it for yourself.   

Anthonij Rupert Wines Tasting -
2014 Cape of Good Hope Chardonnay Serruria
March 31st 2017 at Dynasty Garden Restaurant Kowloon Bay Hong Kong
LeDomduVin ©

2014 Anthonij Rupert Cape of Good Hope Chardonnay “Serruria” Elandskloof Overberg South Africa

About 11.5 EUR, 12 USD or 102 HKD a bottle

For a wine that has spent 11 months ageing on his lees after being fermented partly in stainless steel tanks and partly in old French oak barrels and old wooden vats, one will immediately notice that it is not overly rich or marked by the oak at all, it is rather fresh and zesty, almost shy for my palate. Planted on the slopes of the Stettyn mountains (outside Villiersdorp), between 700 and 900 meters above sea level, the location of the vines, conferred to this wine its freshness and minerality, somewhat reminiscent of a Chablis, rather than the usually expected ultra extracted, heavy and woody new world chardonnays.

Anthonij Rupert Wines Tasting - 
2012 Optima Bordeaux Blend
March 31st 2017 at Dynasty Garden Restaurant Kowloon Bay Hong Kong
LeDomduVin ©

2012 Anthonij Rupert “Optima” Franschhoek Valley South Africa

About 20 EUR, 26 USD or 200 HKD a bottle

A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this appealing wine is quite reminiscent of a Bordeaux wine, Medoc more particularly. Even the label and overall packaging, similar to Chateau Lafite Rothschild, could make it pass for a classic Bordeaux bottle in the middle of a shelf at your favorite wine store. Red and black berry on the nose, earthy and oaky notes and spicy nuances. The palate is quite rich and ripe, yet balanced by a nice amount of acidity, complex and harmonious with blacker berry fruits and spices than on the nose. The finish is polished and textured, quite long with integrated refined tannins.  A very nice surprise overall at 20 bucks. I had no real expectation at first but it really boasted some attractive features that called for another glass.        

Thank you Alec Louw for letting us taste and discover your wines, and Thanks to you and Melody for choosing to come in our comapny Chinese Restaurant Dynasty that day.

Cheers!!!

LeDomduVin  a.k.a Dominique Noël

Read more about Anthonij Rupert Wines on their website at www.rupertwines.com

#rupertwines #anthonijrupertwines #proteawines #southafricanwines #cheninblanc #chardonnay #cabernetsauvignon #bordeauxblend #helixcork #amorin

2005 Domaine du Pech "Le Pech Abusé" (Buzet) Rouge Vendanges Manuelles Biodynamic (Magali Tissot & Ludovic Bonnelle)

2005 Domaine du Pech "Le Pech Abusé" (Buzet) Rouge Vendanges Manuelles Biodynamic (Magali Tissot & Ludovic Bonnelle)

Domaine du Pech, owned by Magali Tissot & Ludovic Bonnelle, is a family owned and run domain in the heart of south west France, which focus on Terroir expression, biodynamic processes and crafted quality.

Established in 1978, Domaine du Pech is located on the eastern border of the AC of Buzet, about 100km south east of Bordeaux, on the hills to the north of Gascony. In 1997, Magali and Ludovic took full responsibility of the estate; and in 2003, they adopted and turned the Domaine to biodynamic production.

Hence, they produce wines using no chemical interference, whether in the vineyard or winery, no sulfur either, which is a risky strategy, but one they can take due to the high quality of the essential raw components: healthy vines and grapes.

The wines are produced from the typical varieties of the region: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc for the reds and Sauvignon Blanc for their limited release white. They greatly believe in Terroir expression and each variety is paired to the perfect soil to maximize its quality potential.

The label art work is designed by their two daughters.

Brief facts about the Domaine:

• 17ha of vineyard planted on gravel, limestone and clay soil using cordon training

• Average yields of 10-25 hl/ha due to careful pruning, bud removal and selection (no green harvesting)

• Active natural predator encouragement program (note the ladybird on the label)
  

• Hand harvested by a team of 30 trained pickers who have worked at the Domaine for many years and who provide the first tranche of fruit selection
  

• Only wild yeasts are used to ferment, made possible because chemicals do not kill them in the vineyard
  

• All fruits goes through a strict selection regime at the crusher and sorting table (a long process but worth it)
  

• No enzymes or chemical additions adding during fermentation and elevage (ageing) . Long maturation in wooden casks and demi-muid (depending on the cuvee) up to 3 years in some cases, allowing nature to work her magic
  

• No filtration or fining required so they don’t use it . All wines are bottled at the winery using their own bottling line (1.5g/hl of sulfur added only when required and depending of the vintage)

2005 Domaine du Pech "Le Pech Abusé" (Buzet) Rouge Vendanges Manuelles Biodynamic (Magali Tissot & Ludovic Bonnelle)
Suggested retail price: $19-$22
Imported / distributed by Metropolis Wines in NYC

A blend of 40% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon from hillside vines, which spent about 3 years ageing nicely in very old oak casks (36 month in oak, with pigeage every other day, and fermentation with natural yeasts only), this biodynamic Buzet possesses balance, ripeness and depth. Alcoholic fermentation naturally stopped at 15 grams, no SO2 added at all, and like most natural wines, no filtering or fining before bottling. 500 cases produced. We just received it and I love it.

Anecdote about the name of the wine: "Le Pech Abusé" is a play of word about the fact that Domaine Pech has been abused from its right of putting "AOC Buzet" on the label, even if the wine is from Buzet, because certain of its features didn't comply with AOC regulations: high alcohol content, length of the ageing process, etc...

Beside its bright ruby color, it offers expressive aromas of blueberry, blackberry and black fruit, mingled with earthy, smoky and mineral notes. The palate is rich, generous, ripe and super juicy with the same type of flavors as on the nose with oak ageing nuances, enhanced by good acidity and integrated tannins. The finish is quite soft, rounded and really ripe, but not overripe or stewed. Highly recommended. Discover natural, biodynamic red wine with hearty dishes like Cassoulet, Saucisse lentille, Magret de Canard, Braised beef, etc... How not to "abuse" of it, when it is so good?

This wine, once again, confirmed my passion for the Southwest of France and its rather undiscovered wines. Being from the Southwest of France myself, I have always been the faithful ambassador of the wines from this area. And surprisingly enough, despite the fact that the 5 top selling wines in the store are French, one of them is a super friendly, crisp and zesty little white, from Gascony, made from two indigenous grape varieties: Colombard and Ugni Blanc. I already wrote about it in an earlier post and will review it again soon.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from the importer website at www.winemc2.com and from the winery website at http://www.domainedupech.com/

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

2007 Fontezoppa Vardo Colli Maceratesi Rosso Marche Italy

Azienda Agroforestale Fontezoppa Civitanova Marche Italy

Nestled in the central eastern coastal region of Italy known as “Le Marche”, Azienda Agroforestale FONTEZOPPA is located in the outskirt of Civitanova, a commune facing the Adriatic Sea, about 46 kilometers southwest of Ancona and about 52 kilometers east of Serrapetrona.

The owner/winemaker Giovanni Basso, benefiting from 20 years of experience as a grower, continues to produce harmonious, earthy wines of traditional character with the upmost respect for the environment.

The vineyards are located in the hilly province of Macerata, some on the hills’ slopes surrounding the town of Serrapetrona, a stone throw from San Severino, and some close to Civitanova, both areas considered to be some of the best spots to grow grapes in the Marche region.

The 25-year-old vines grow between 500-600 meters above sea level, benefiting from the cool sea breeze of the nearby Adriatic Sea, resulting in great balance and freshness, even for the reds. Fontezoppa vineyards are planted with classic grapes like Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, but also more indigenous grapes like Lacrima, Maceratino, Incrocio Bruni (a rare crossing of Verdicchio and Sauvignon) and Pecorino.

Fontezoppa produces about 15 different wines and a grappa. The 4 wines available in New York (through SoilAir Selection) are crafted mainly with Verdicchio for the white and predominantly with Sangiovese complemented by Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot for the reds.

• Verdicchio di Matelica: a clean, refreshing and versatile white made of 100% Verdicchio grapes vinified in stainless steel tank white.

• Marche Rosso I.G.T: a juicy red made of 40% Sangiovese, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot from younger vines, also vinified in stainless steel tank.

• “Falcotto” from Serrapetrona appellation: a great, full-bodied, earthy and spicy red made from the rather undiscovered Vernaccia Nera grape variety, a sibling of the more popular Vernaccia white. Vernaccia Nera is mainly planted in the Serrapetrona appellation where it is also used to produce sparkling red wines and Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol region where the resulting reds are light, earthy, spicy and mineral.

And the wine of today:


2007 Fontezoppa Vardo Colli Maceratesi Rosso Marche Italy
Suggested retail price $13-$16
Imported/distributed by SoilAir Selection in NYC

The vineyards used for “Vardo” are located in the Colli Maceratesi, a Denominazione di origine Controllata (DOC) producing some white wines under “Colli Maceratesi Bianco”, which comprise at least 80% of the Maceratino grape (also known as Montecchiese) with the remaining 20% from Trebbiano Toscano, Verdicchio, Malvasia and Chardonnay. Also some red wines under “Colli Maceratesi Rosso”, which must comprise at least 50% of the Sangiovese grape with the remaining 50% from Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Ciliegiolo, Lacrima Merlot and Montepulciano.

Vardo` is a blend of 60% Sangiovese and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon as the label indicates it; although the winery website says differently, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot, which I wouldn’t be surprised if the later corresponds to the real blend. The grapes were carefully harvested from vineyards consisting of 8 years old vines planted at about 150 meters above sea level, with North Eastern exposure to the sun. The fermentation occurred in stainless steel tank, where the wine also spent a resting period of 3 months, followed by a maturation period of 12 months in big 60 hectoliters used French oak casks to confer more complexity and structure to the wine without imparting the taste with too much toasted oak flavors. Then it was bottled with no filtration or fining to keep its texture and maximize the quality by preserving all essential components.

A blend of roughly 60% Sangiovese and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon from 25 years old vines, 2007 Fontezoppa Vardo` Colli Maceratesi Rosso shows a beautiful, bright ruby-garnet color of light to medium intensity, with slight mature brown prune reflects on the rime. Although quite expressive, the nose is moderately complex, offering enjoyable, yet dry earthy aromas of dark berries, spices and black fruits intermingled with hints of smoke, black earth, pencil shaving, graphite and other minerals. Light to medium bodied, the palate is rather dry, very earthy, mineral and crisp, characterized by intense, dry fruity spicy flavors and black fruit. Very well balanced, the palate is full yet not heavy, fairly complex and persistent with vegetal, slightly herbaceous notes mixed with dry earth and juicy black fruits. From the beginning, the acidity and the mineral procure focus, while the soft and supple tannins provide a tamed structure all along towards the lengthy peppery and herbal, spicy finish.

Definitely a food wine enhanced by its acidity and minerality, complemented by a lot of earthy components and spices. Decanting is highly recommended, and in my opinion the wine was even showing better the next day, it appeared more settled and put together. Drink it with earthy dishes like game, poultry and venison; also some aged cheeses. I love it. A steal under $15, for connoisseurs and amateurs of more cerebral wines, like me.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from the importer website at www.soilairselection.com and from the winery website at www.cantinefontezoppa.com

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

2008 Chateau Haut-Vigneau Pessac-Léognan Bordeaux France

There are still good bargains to be found in Bordeaux for who wants to search for them. Of course you can always rely on the big names or their second wines, but they rarely come under $25, which, in this economy, can appear a bit expensive. With most people spending $15 and under, above $20 don’t sell as well as only a few years ago. Therefore, the segment of $15 to $20 as become the new place of choice for special occasions and out of the everyday drinking wines pattern.

I first tasted the following wine about 7-8 years ago, during the “En Primeur” campaign, while visiting the Perrin family at Château Carbonnieux and tasting the new vintage at the barrel.

At the time, part of the buying team of PJwine.com, it wasn’t my first time at Château Carbonnieux and as usual, late Anthony Perrin, who passed away at the age of 68 years old in September 2008, received us with welcoming friendly manners and a smiley face, living up to his legendary bonhomie. We tasted Carbonnieux Blanc and Rouge at the barrel as well as previous vintages. Always a great experience and surely one of the best Pessac-Léognan in my opinion!

In the mean time, Eric Perrin, brother of Philibert and son of late Anthony Perrin, introduced us to the wines from his property: Château Haut-Vigneau. I need to admit that I was taken aback by the quality of his wines and the demanded prices.

Since then, I bought most of the last vintages and continue to be impressed by the consistency of his wines. I just bought the 2008 vintage and I’m really please by it.

Especially that it is a fine example amongst these great Bordeaux that you can still find under $20 and remain pretty consistent pricewise year after year, not oscillating to high extreme in good years like so many other Bordeaux.

Chateau Haut-Vigneau Pessac-Léognan Bordeaux France

Situated near the commune of Martillac, about 5.5 kilometers northeast of Léognan and 10.5 kilometers south of the center of Bordeaux driving on the route de Toulouse, this property was originally part of the estate belonging to Baron de Montesquieu.

In 1765, Belleyme, the royal geographer, published a map on which the site “Vigneau de haut” appears to be a plant of land clearly planted with vines. Starting in the mid-20th century, the Perrin family, leaded by Marc Perrin the father of Anthony, slowly acquired a few properties in the Pessac-Léognan area, including Château Carbonnieux, Château Haut-Vigneau, Château Lafont Menaut and Château Le Sartre (since 2004 or 5, owned and managed by late Anthony Perrin's sister, Marie-José Leriche with the help of her husband René and their manager and winemaker David Château).

Nowadays, Eric and Philibert Perrin continue with assiduity the work of their late father at Château Carbonnieux, which belongs to their mother. Yet, they respectively inherited their own Château: "Lafont Menaut" belongs to Philibert and "Haut-Vigneau" to Eric, were both also spend a good amount of time, out of their responsibility regarding Carbonnieux.

In the early1980s, Eric took over the management of Château Haut-Vigneau and began the long-term work of clearing the land and replanting the vineyard from scratch. The property was in really bad shape, but Eric focused the last 10-15 years renovating it completely and reestablished its vineyard. With its remarkable situation, its Terroir of choice, and after somewhat recent, careful work in both vineyard and vat room, Château Haut-Vigneau can now compete easily with more reputed wines.

The property’s 20 hectares produce only one red wine typical of its Pessac-Léognan appellation: earthy and juicy and expressing Terroir oriented flavors with tobacco leaf and smoky hints. The resulting wine usually offers very pleasing aromas of black fruit (blackberries, black currant) and subtle roasted notes (grilled and smoky).

With oenological advice from Christophe Olivier, who works closely with Prof. Denis Dubourdieu, Eric Perrin strives to produce a truly classic great wine, expressing both the power and the finesse of its fruit.

Similar to Château Carbonnieux, vinification and winemaking at Haut-Vigneau are based on great respect for the grapes, the vines, the environment and the specific Terroir composed of deep “Garonnaise” gravel (a mixed of dirt and multiple small round pebbles and sea shells anciently rolled over and deposited by the "Garonne" river atop a calcareous subsoil), together with careful and traditional long oak aging in 20% new barrels.



2008 Château Haut-Vigneau Pessac-Léognan Bordeaux France
Suggested retail price $18-$21
Sold by Compagnie Médocaine des Grands Cru and distributed by Frederick Wildman & sons in NYC

The vines are cultivated according to environmental friendly growing practice, in respect for the plants and their surroundings, and consequently the soil. A blend of hand harvested and carefully sorted grapes, 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, from south exposed and gently sloped vineyards planted on a naturally drained gravelly-calcareous soil, this wine was fermented and vinified in stainless steel vats for about 20 days, before ageing process occurred in oak barrels (20% new) for 15 to 18 months. 120,000 bottles were produced and mostly sold to the export market with major distribution in USA, Great Britain, Germany and Japan.

2008 Château Haut-Vigneau Pessac-Léognan shows a medium to deep lovely dark ruby color. The nose is clean, earthy and warm with ripe dark berry, black currants and blackberry aromas intermingled with liquorice, spice and slightly toasted oak notes. The palate offers interesting structure and texture with the same type of black fruits and grilled oaky flavors, enhanced by integrated acidity and framed by smooth, yet touch green, distinct tannins. Some may recognize the earthy, tobacco leaf, smoky character of this wine, which is typical to great Terroir driven Pessac-Léognan.

Some may see that as a default or may not find that very attractive, yet the juiciness of this wine tremendously compensate for it. And if you're still not convinced, as a food friendly wine, try to smooth it down with an aeration of about an hour in a decanter, then taste it over an earthy dish like “grilled Magret de Canard served with Ceps and Pleurottes sautéed with garlic and parsley”.

It is maybe sentimental, because I grow up the first 6 years of my life in Pessac, and obtained 18 years later my Sommelier diploma in the Catering College of Talence and sold a lot of Carbonnieux in my career; or even because I knew Mr. Anthony Perrin and his sons after eating at the Château and tasting the wines at the barrel with them quite a few times over the last 14 years; or even because when I first started as a waiter-commis Sommelier, I served Mr. Perrin quite a few times in the Relais-Château where I used to work…

... However, it is definitely in memory of his late father, who was the inspiration for all the hard work invested by Eric Perrin to revamp his property, continue the family tradition of excellent winemaking and attention to details with the gentle bonhomie inherent to the Perrin’s family and produce top quality Pessac-Léognan wines. I liked it a lot and I hope you will too!

Enjoy!

Ledom du vin

Info partly taken and edited from the Château website at http://www.haut-vigneau.com

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines (and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

Buzet & 2004 Chateau de Gueyze Buzet red Southwest of France

Buzet

Buzet? Did you ever heard about Buzet? No? Well I will try with this post to enlighten you. Let’s go back to the southwest of France to discover it together.

Often confused with Bordeaux or even more confused for being one of the numerous Bordeaux appellations, Buzet has always lived in the shadow of Bordeaux. It is partly due to the fact that during the Middle-Age period, Buzet belonged to the Bordeaux wine region; but it is also because even nowadays, Buzet wines, which are predominately red, are produced with the same prominent Bordeaux red grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Although Buzet are usually darker, fruitier, spicier and earthier than Bordeaux, they both have somewhat similar tasting features.

The village of Buzet, which gave its name to the surrounding eponymous wine region, is located about 110 kilometers (about 60 miles) southeast of Bordeaux, about halfway between Bordeaux and Toulouse when you drive south on the Highway A62, in the Lot-et Garonne.

Buzet is a short name for “Buzet-sur-Baïse”, named after the Baïse River, an affluent of the Garonne River, near which the Romans first built it centuries ago, and also where, some centuries later, influential Lords of Gascony established their quarters and built their Castle near by. Consequently, Buzet gave its name to the wine region, which is now regrouping about 900 hectares of vineyards that roughly stretches between Agen and Marmande, in the heart of Gascony.

All Buzet vineyards enjoy a continental microclimate slightly influenced by the proximity of the Atlantic Ocean yet protected by the Landes forest, which allows for a good amount of sun and ideal ripeness. Growing conditions are imparted by the west wind, which aerate the vines, and the nearby Garonne River, which provides just the right amount of moisture for the grapes to fully ripen.

The main economic activity of Buzet has always been the agriculture, and more especially the viticulture. From the village archives, it easy to attest that the wine of Buzet had their glorious days back in the 13th and 15th centuries; then were fairly reputed in the 18th century; rediscovered during the 19th century when the village experienced a needed renaissance, and enjoyed a fair amount of recognition up until early 20th century. The Baïse River and the Canal de Garonne inaugurated in 1856, also brought a lot of commerce activities.

However, due to the Phylloxera plague, which occurred between 1860 and 1930 and devastated more than 75% of most European vineyards, Buzet wine quality dropped and the village became more renowned for its pencil factory than its wines, especially in between the two world wars, up until the mid-1950. But wine production has always prevailed, adored by the locals, and more especially the Lords and Bourgeois since the Medieval times, it was normal that wine production had to resurface.

Buzet is now somewhat known worldwide through the “Cave des Vignerons de Buzet”, which was established in the 1950s, thanks to the will of a handful of growers who wanted to free themselves from the tutelage of traders and Négociants. It is both a qualitative and commercial success, beyond the hopes of its creators. La Cave des Vignerons de Buzet accounts for about 90% of total production of Buzet wines.

In 1973, the region was elevated to the rank of Buzet AOC, a well-deserved victory that once again confirmed the will and determination of its growers and established the quality of Buzet wines, once and for all marking the difference with Bordeaux, taking the shadow away. Rare are the independent producers, but there are a few that grow, vinify and bottle their wines at the estate.

La Cave des Vignerons de Buzet produce many different wines under various labels, which depend on the Terroir of origin, the type of soil, the quality of the parcels, the age of the vines and the potential of the resulting wines depending of the vintage.

Château de Gueyze is the leading brand of “La Cave des Vignerons de Buzet”, it has became a real standard for the appellation.

Château de Gueyze

Château de Gueyze is a magnificent 80 hectares (200 acres) vineyard situated on gravelly and clay-limestone soils overlooking the Garonne River. It is the largest vineyard of the appellation and the venerated benchmark of the area. Over the last 25 years, the estate has gained great recognition, producing powerful yet delicate wines. The maturing period in oak enhances the wine’s expression without ever dominating it.

The key of the complexity of Château de Buzet comes partly from the quality of the various types of soils: gravely, chalky and clayey, which allow for greater texture and structure; and also from a rigorous selection of the best parcels.



2004 Château de Gueyze Buzet Southwest of France
Suggested retail price $20-$23
Imported/Distributed by Baron François in NYC

"Gueyze" is like "Baïse". It's a Gasconised Celtic word meaning, roughly, "little river". At the edge of the nearby heath, a tiny stream full of trout and shrimps is called "the Gueyze". In other words, water! How has a place with a watery name become the flagship "terroir" for Buzet wines? It's one of the great mysteries of this marvelous soil. And it's here that one of the best wines in Gascony is made.

After careful hand-harvest, the wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks, with a long maceration (about 3 weeks) like in Bordeaux to extract the maximum of components: color, tannins, fruit, etc.. And then matured in French oak barrels for 12 months. The wine is finally lightly fined in barrel before bottling without filtration.

A blend of 40% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2004 Château de Gueyze Buzet red is quite dark in color with good intensity. The nose offers complex and fragrant aromas like ripe dark and red fruit mixed with spices and earth and complemented by menthol and eucalyptus hints. The palate is quite dense and rich, yet well balanced with the same flavors as in the nose and present yet integrated tannins. The finish is soft and harmonious, a touch earthy an elegant tannic structure, a promise of good ageing potential.

Pair it with stew and grilled meat, and more especially with some specialties of Gascony like: "Confit de Canard", "Cassoulet de Castelnaudary", "Saucisses lentilles de Toulouse a la graisse d'Oie", "Gesiers de Canard aux Pruneaux d'Agen", "Magret de Canard a L'Armagnac", "Tournedos Rossini" (tender piece of beef topped with pan seared Foie Gras), etc...

The last vintage that we had in the store was the 2000, which was truly enjoyable and complex. Although integrated and fairly well rounded, the 2004 vintage seems a touch more tannic with less riper fruit than the 2000, but it still shows promises for the near future. Southwest of France wine lovers should enjoyed it a great deal. I know I did.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken from the importer website at www.baronfrancois.com and from the winery website at www.vignerons-buzet.fr

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines (and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability.

2003 Château Pontet-Canet Pauillac Haut-Médoc France

2003 Château Pontet-Canet Pauillac Haut-Médoc France

Despite its rank as a 5th Growth, over the last 10 years, Chateau Pontet Canet has become one of the rising flagship estates of the Pauillac appellation, rivaling in quality with some of the best and more established higher ranking Chateaux of this renowned appellation.

Bought in 1975 by the Tesseron family and now owned by Alfred Tesseron, the property, located south of Château Mouton Rothschild and Château d'Armailhac, in the heart of the Pauillac appellation, encompasses 80 hectares of vineyards on poor sand and gravel soils planted mainly with Cabernet Sauvignon, the signature grape to produce great Pauillac.

Eventually gaining more recognition after 20 years+ of hard work and devotion, Alfred Tesseron and its team’s efforts where highly rewarded within this last decade more particularly with stunning, consistent and expressive value wines produced good year, bad year since the 2000 vintage.




2003 Château Pontet-Canet Pauillac Haut-Médoc France
Suggested retail price $105-$120
Imported/Distributed by BNP (Châteaux & Estates) in NYC

The 2003 vintage has a riper style than usual due to the summer heat wave of this particular vintage; yet balanced and harmonious, which wasn’t the case for a lot of Bordeaux in 2003, it is in my opinion one of the best crafted wines of the Pauillac appellation (for this vintage).

The 2003 Chateau Pontet-Canet possesses a deep ruby-garnet color of very good intensity and bright reflects. The nose is warm, expressive and ripe with rich aromas of dark berry, ripe plum, leather and cedar intermingled with oak and spicy notes. Despite the over-ripeness combined with inharmonious features and weird green tannins characteristic of the 2003 vintage for most Chateaux in Bordeaux, the 2003 Château Pontet-Canet's palate seems to be one of the rare exceptions. It offers very good balance and texture, with ripe dark fruit yet enhanced by good acidity and framed by present yet integrated tannins. Offering plenty of generous dark berry fruit flavors mixed with earthy and woody notes, this is not a classic Bordeaux “per se”, yet it is more traditional somehow than most of the other unbalanced fruit bomb produced in Bordeaux this particular year. The quality of the fruit, the balancing acidity combined with the tannins in the finish and the overall profile of this wine suggest that it could keep for quite a few more years; yet I wouldn’t wait too long. It is just a suggestion and a personal opinion but I think that most of the 2003 Bordeaux will not age greatly and may fade sooner than expected (I may be wrong but I kept my impressions since I taste them "En Primeur" in Bordeaux and many time after when bottled. See my previous post about Bordeaux wines and my opinion about the different vintages).

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Find more info about Château Pontet-Canet on the winery website at www.pontet-canet.com

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic and Organic wine (and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe!

2002 Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Rutherford California

2002 Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Rutherford California

Once again, searching for a fortunately forgotten bottle amongst my precious bottles that I normally keep for special occasions, I found a wooden box, a untouched "coffret", containing 3 bottles of Sequoia Grove from the 2002 vintage: 1 Cabernet Sauvignon, 1 Chardonnay and 1 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve; that was offered to me 3 or 4 years ago.

Sequoia Grove vineyards was founded in 1978 by Jim Allen, whose love for European wines inspired him to look for the perfect place, leading him to the Napa Valley.

Surrounded by its purple hued mountains, Sequoia Grove Winery sits on 22 acres right in the heart of the valley floor in an important region referred to as the Rutherford Bench. Here the alluvial soil, rich in minerals, combined with the fog from the bay, mingling with the warm inland temperatures create the ideal location to produce their award winning Cabernet Sauvignon.

Michael Trujillo, their Director of Winemaking and President, has been with Sequoia Grove since its beginnings joining the team in 1982. Winemaker Molly Hill overseeing daily operations and quality control. Together Michael and Molly share the same passion for excellence, and have forged great relationships to acquire the best Napa Valley fruit available. These Bordeaux-style wines show varietal expression, structure and balance with a true sense of place; a fresh approach yielding modern-day liquid treasures.

Sequoia Grove wines are made with 100% Napa Valley fruit from the original Estate vineyard and the newly acquired Tonella Estate Vineyard in Rutherford, as well as from premier Napa Valley Growers throughout Napa County.

So after reading a bit of info on the winery website, I "googled" 2002 Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, and found the following notes (taken from the fact sheet):

“This wine has twice the horsepower of any previous Napa Valley Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon; it’s twice as bold and rich with twice the concentration. At the last minute, I blended in 4%-5% Merlot – I’m out to make the best wine possible, not to be boxed in by the idea of a 100% varietal wine. This wine reveals the most dramatic improvement of all the wines we make, and I’m confident there isn’t another Rutherford- based wine of this quality for this price.” - Michael Trujillo

The Fruit: Ideal harvest conditions in 2002 produced grapes with full maturity and intense flavors. The Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is made from estate-grown grapes as well as neighboring growers Gary Morisoli, Bill Collins, Beckstoffer, Traina, Garvey and others all within the Rutherford, Oakville and Napa Districts of the Napa Valley (60% Rutherford, 30% Oakville, 10% Napa).
Vinification: All fruit is hand-sorted and crushed to the fermenter where each individual wine is to be fermented. After a gentle pressing, the wines are transferred to 100% American oak barrels – 40% of which is new – where the wines undergo and finish secondary malolactic fermentation. Finally, the wines are blended and further aged in barrels for a minimum of 22 months prior to bottling.

Tasting Notes: Generous aromas of currants and blackberries are offset by impressions of black olive, clove and spice. On the palate, rich, full flavors of ripe dark fruits, black cherries and dark chocolate are supported by fresh acidity and a restrained, elegant tannic structure. With a velvety finish, it is approachable now and will only improve with more time.

I thought: "He, it has been a long time since I wrote something on a Californian wine; let's open it and see how this "twice the horsepower" Sequoia Grove 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon has evolved in the bottle.




2002 Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Rutherford California
Suggested retail price $27-$30

As soon as I opened the slightly-dry-at-the-top cork (strange because these bottles have been laying down for quite some time in their box...), "volutes" of liquorice, old prune scents with a slightly musty touch, evolved in the environing air. I let it breathe for a little while. In the glass, its color is quite deep and intense, red garnet with dark orange-brick reflects in the rime. It also seems to have quite a few sediments (no filtration? bad storage?...). I even put it close to the light to witness minuscule rounded floating red sediments, almost like if the wine was pigmented with multiple red dots swimming around.

After a few minutes in the glass, the same profound and expressive old prune, dark wild berries, liquorice, forest floor, cider wood (or sequoia in this case may be), spicy, earthy aromas came out warmly from the glass with a slight touch of alcohol. To use a metaphor, it was almost like walking in the red wood forest by a warm Indian fall afternoon, breathing the different scent intermingled with dark fruit, earth, mushroom and almost smoky notes in the air.

Boosting 14.2% of alcohol, this wine attack is clean and inviting yet ultra-ripe, creamy and woody with very dark, jammy fruit, earth and spice. The mid-palate is really generous, fairly balanced at first and expanding nicely for the first half, with even more ripe dark fruit, almost scorched fruit, dark chocolate (Michael was right on this one too), more earth, spice and toasted oak. The second half that leads toward the finish is somewhat less attractive, slightly rough and a bit angular, fortunately the acidity is persistent and balances it, although at some point the wine seems to have a down curve before the finish. Despite the gorgeous and lingering ripe dark fruit and chocolate flavors, the woody finish possesses some dry tannins with some alcohol, which brings, (IMO), some bitterness (or even sourness if you ask my wife) in the back palate. The tannins seems quite young still and may need a few more years to integrate. One thing is sure, this wine still has some good ageing potential due to its tannins.

Overall, the wine is not bad, very ripe, fairly juicy and fairly balanced, but not as harmonious or integrated as I thought it will be after a few years in the bottle. It is a big fruit bomb, with a lot of chocolate, toasted oak and alcohol, fortunately with some decent acidity to lighten and balance it and somewhat round some of the angles.

Although I buy some of these wines for my customers at the store and I still appreciate some of the featuring aromas and flavors in this one, it is not necessary my style, no offense to the winemaker or the winery, but the alcohol in the finish is a bit of a put-off for me.

You see when I taste them and sometime, if rarely, buy them, I must comprehend and appreciate them for what they are but I don't enjoy them for myself, that is one of the dilemma of a wine-buyer like me (because even if I need to be open minded to any wines and any styles to offer a wide array of wines from all around the world to my customers, from the driest, earthiest, leanest and acidic to the ripest, woodiest, more alcoholic juice out there; I still prefer my wine to be more harmonious, balanced, fresher and juicier with more minerality, integrated tannins and less alcohol).

Big Cabernet lovers should enjoy this wine very much. I'll suggest to open it at least an hour before you drink it, because it seems to round up and get slightly more open and easy to drink after now about 30 minutes of opening. It will need something substantial like a grilled steak.

Don't get me wrong, If I was living in Napa Valley, enjoying the warm weather sitting outside with a glass of this wine, breathing the fumes of a juicy steak or burger grilling next to me with a few friends and family around, I'm sure that it will change my point of view and my way of drinking this wine.

May be, I'm too impatient and should let it breathe a little longer, or may be, I'm not used to this type of wine anymore. The Rioja, Ribera del Duero and some Bordeaux wines that I drink from time to time, may have this type of body and strength, or even the alcohol, but I need to admit that too much ripeness and heaviness in the glass get me tired very quickly and I can't enjoy the wine as much as I would love to.

Moreover, as a good wine lover, I like to finish my bottle and try different wines within the same meal, any wine above 14-14.5% of alcohol will get me on my knees quick and make me sleepy, but any wine below 14% will surely enhance my mood and my meal and my conversation, and I will have no problem to sip it and appreciate it and of course finish the bottle.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info taken from the winery website at www.sequoiagrove.com and from a fact sheet at http://www.sequoiagrove.com/sequoiagrove/servlet/streamfile%3Ffile_record_id%3D1006&ei=MXIdS53BC9WZlAesu9HyCQ&sa=X&oi=nshc&resnum=1&ct=result&cd=2&ved=0CA8QzgQoAQ&usg=AFQjCNHmrSHHuKuvkrJ_M3O8r-cOitU7dQ

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic and Organic wines (and Food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment!

2006 O'Leary Walker "Blue Cutting Road" Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot Clare Valley Australia

2006 O'Leary Walker "Blue Cutting Road" Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot Clare Valley South Australia
Suggested retail price $11-$13
Distributed by Noble House Wines in NYC

"O'Leary Walker" is a jointed venture winemaking company created in 2001 by David O'Leary and Nick Walker. They first became friends at the Roseworthy winemaking college in 1979. After 20 years working (separately) for big wineries and many accolades later, these two illustrious winemakers decided to take an opportunity of a life time and joined forces to control their own destiny and especailly to produce quality wines on a smaller scale to ensure high quality and consistency. "O'Leary Walker" was born.

In the late 1890's the Blue Cutting Road was hand dug by Polish settlers whilst waiting for gainful employment. Blue Cutting Road is situated in the area known today as the Polish Hill River region of the Clare Valley. Not only does this road remain a usable summer bush track connecting two main roads. It dissects the two vineyards that provide valuable, flavorsome fruit for a range of O'Leary Walker wines.

Much of the settlers' influences have filtered throughout the beautiful Clare Valley and many of the fruits of their labors are still evident today. O'Leary Walker pay homage to their enduring qualities with this wine.

The 2006 Blue Cutting Road Cabernet-Merlot blend was fermented in small (2000 liters) open stainless tanks and shows the benefits. The expressive fruity nose expresses distinct aromas of blueberry mix with cassis and mulberry spice, complemented by hints of cedar and tobacco leaf. Like a freshly crushed bunch of wild blueberry and dark berry with spice and dirt (in a good earthy way), the palate is fruity, full without being heavy or overripe, and mouth filling with balanced acidity and long, present fine tannins. To enjoy with spicy BBQ and grilled red meat.

Overall, even if it still ridges 14,5% of alcohol, this wine was enjoyable and even surprising because of its balanced attitude, its pleasant varietal character and its dryness compared with the usual and well established overripe, jammy, fruit bomb profile of most Australian red wines on the American market (no offense).

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken from their website at www.olearywalkerwines.com


Step into the Green! Drink more Bio and Organic wines (and Food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment!

2007 Releaf Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Shiraz Western Cap South Africa (organic)

2007 Releaf Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Shiraz Western Cap South Africa (organic)
Suggested retail price $10 - $12
Imported by Prestige Wine (NJ) & distributed by Nestor Imports in NYC

A nice discovery from South Africa, Releaf is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 20% Shiraz. It is made from 100% hand harvested, organically grown grapes from vineyards under sustainable agriculture (somewhat a mix of Organic and Biodynamic culture). The nose offers intense flavors of blackberry, cassis and vanilla spice. On the palate, Merlot adds plumy and red cherry notes plus a suppleness that balances Cabernet’s structure, while Shiraz adds a peppery blackberry pie characteristic. The blend perfectly balances the fabulous fruit flavors, structure, and acidity, yielding a wine with earthy, concentrated flavors. Fairly complex for a wine in this price category from South Africa, it is really inviting and approachable. Organic wines have come a long a way, and Releaf is a good example what can be achieved when growers use sustainable farming. Even the bottle and the label were designed with the environment in mind using partially recycled glass for the bottle and recycled ink and paper for the label.

Step into the Green! Respect the environment for you and the future generation! Thank you.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

For more info go to: www.organicwinetradecompany.com