Wednesday, January 22, 2025

LeDomduVin: When you like Champagne - A brief post about its History, Origins, and Evolution





When you like Champagne 😋👍🍾🥂 





A brief post about its History, Origins, and Evolution 



Champagne is more than just a sparkling drink; it symbolizes celebration, luxury, and tradition. Originating from the eponymous region in France, this sparkling wine has a rich and fascinating history dating back centuries. From its humble beginnings to its status as an iconic drink, champagne has undergone a remarkable evolution, marked by technical innovations, cultural changes, and global recognition.


History & Origins


The history of champagne begins in the Champagne region of northeastern France. The Romans planted the first vines there, and wine was still produced for centuries until the 17th century, when champagne, as we know it today, began to take shape.

The Benedictine monk Dom Pérignon (1638 - 1715), often credited with the invention of champagne, played a crucial role in developing the methode champenoise, which involves causing a second fermentation in the bottle to create the characteristic bubbles.

Yet, historically, the earliest documented sparkling wine is Blanquette de Limoux, created by Benedictine monks at the Abbey of Saint-Hilaire, near Carcassonne, in 1531. Creating it by sealing the wine in bottles before the completion of its first fermentation.

Over a century later, in England, scientist and physician Christopher Merret documented the process of adding sugar to a finished wine, thus initiating a second fermentation (six years before Dom Pérignon arrived at the Abbey of Hautvillers).

In 1662, Merret presented a paper at the Royal Society outlining what is now known as ‘méthode traditionnelle’ (also known as Methode Champenoise). His findings coincided with advancements by English glassmakers, who developed bottles sturdy enough to handle the internal pressures of secondary fermentation. In contrast, French glassmakers could not produce bottles of comparable strength or quality then.

In France, the first sparkling champagne was created by accident, as the pressure in the bottles led to explosions or corks popping off, earning it the nickname "the devil's wine" (le vin du diable). At the time, bubbles were seen as a defect.

Adolphe Jaquesson developed the muselet in 1844 to prevent corks from flying out. Early versions were challenging to apply and remove.

For a long time, even when champagne was intentionally made sparkling, it was produced using the 'méthode rurale,’ which involved bottled wine before the fermentation was completed. The 'méthode champenoise' (or traditional method), which involves secondary fermentation in the bottle, was not adopted until the 19th century, roughly 200 years after Merret recorded the technique.

In the 18th century, champagne gained popularity among French and European nobility, becoming a symbol of luxury and refinement. Champagne houses, such as Moët & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, and Louis Roederer, were founded during this period and helped establish the standards of quality and production that we still can see and taste today.


Development of Champagne over the Last 30 Years


Over the past three decades, champagne production and consumption have significantly transformed. Technological advances have improved winemaking methods, ensuring consistent quality and more efficient production. Champagne producers have also adopted more sustainable winemaking practices, meeting a growing demand for environmentally friendly products.

Champagne gradually lost its reputation as reserved only for the elite, the rich, and the famous. It became more approachable and appreciated by the masses and younger generations. The emergence of younger and lesser-known independent producers also helped to open and democratize the Champagne market.

On a commercial level, champagne has seen its market extend well beyond French and European borders. Exports have increased significantly in the US and other countries, with emerging markets such as China, India, and Brazil becoming significant consumers. This global expansion increased the awareness of Champagne and introduced new consumption trends, such as 'Special Cuvées,' rosé, and vintage champagnes.

At the same time, the Champagne region has evolved, with new appellations, investments, and initiatives aimed at protecting and promoting wine heritage. Tourists worldwide flock to the area to discover the vineyards, cellars, and champagne houses, contributing to the local economy and the international reputation of champagne.


The State of Champagne Sales and Future Prospects



Over the past decade, despite the diminution of wine sales in general since COVID-19, the champagne market has experienced significant fluctuations, reflecting both global economic challenges and changes in consumer behavior. Champagne sales were marked by sustained growth in certain regions, notably Asia and North America, while traditional markets such as Europe showed signs of stabilization.


Effects and Consequences on the Current Market


As mentioned above, the last ten years have seen a diversification of consumer markets, with a notable increase in exports to emerging countries. This expansion increased champagne awareness and introduced new consumption trends, such as 'Special Cuvées,' rosé, and vintage champagnes. Champagne producers have had to adapt to these new demands by innovating both in terms of production and marketing.

However, the past decade has also been marked by economic challenges, including the 2020 global health crisis, which temporarily affected sales and production. Restrictions on gatherings and events have limited occasions for drinking champagne, traditionally associated with celebrations and festive moments. Despite these obstacles, the sector has shown remarkable resilience, with a rapid recovery in sales as soon as restrictions were lifted.

Yet, COVID-19 confinement obliged a large number of people to work from home, leading to an increase in alcohol consumption. As a result, anti-alcohol campaigns rapidly exploded globally, denouncing the effects and consequences of alcohol consumption and abuse. Although these campaigns originally aimed at hard alcohol (spirits like whisky, gin, vodka, etc.) and beers, they quickly spread to all alcoholic beverages, including wine and, thus, Champagne, greatly affecting sales and consumption in the last five years.  

Global warming has also changed the Champagne and bubbly wine market. Producers now create sparkling wines in areas, regions, and even countries where this was not considered plausible less than a decade or two ago.         

Overproduction is also a concern. With more small and independent producers crafting sparkling wine worldwide and lesser sales and consumption, competition for brand, quality, and price is fierce. 

So what does it mean for Champagne in tomorrow's market? 


Perspectives for the Market of Tomorrow


Despite fierce competition and overproduction of sparkling wines, the champagne market still looks promising for the future thanks to its name (Champagne can only be produced in France), quality, and reputation. 

Current trends indicate a growing demand for high-quality products and unique experiences. Consumers, who are increasingly aware of environmental issues, are looking for sustainably produced champagne, pushing champagne houses to adopt environmentally friendly viticultural practices, improve their quality, and adapt to the new markets to maintain their sales.  

Technological innovations will continue to be crucial in improving production methods and ensuring quality. Advances in winemaking and vineyard management will allow champagne to meet growing demand while maintaining its renowned high standards.

Additionally, the rise of e-commerce and direct sales platforms provides new opportunities to reach consumers worldwide. Champagne houses are investing increasingly in digital marketing and online sales strategies to reach a larger and more diverse audience.


To Conclude


In conclusion, although the last decade has presented many challenges (COVID-19, anti-alcohol campaigns, overproduction, and global warming opening new areas of production for sparkling wines, along with a general decrease in consumption, especially among younger generations facing financial difficulties and disinterest in alcoholic products), the champagne market seems to remain dynamic and full of potential. The adaptations and innovations implemented by producers position champagne as a beverage of choice for many years to come (hopefully), promising to continue celebrating special moments and delighting palates around the world.


**************

I could have continued discussing this vast subject for hours and write about it in more detail. Still, I did not want to bore you with the specifics, as the world we live in is already in a sad state, with war, violence, famine, economic, financial, political, geopolitical, and religious issues, problems, and concerns. Therefore, I kept this post as positive as I could. 

Even if the past three years have been extremely difficult for the wine industry globally, for all the reasons cited above and beyond, as a Champagne and Wine lover, I firmly believe that Champagne (and wine in general) still has a future.

As for everything else, time will tell. 

So, for now, let's just enjoy a glass (or two) of Champagne!






Jacques Selosse Initial Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut


Compared to its siblings with lower production, ‘Initial’ is one of Jacques Selosse's most accessible cuvées, with 33000 bottles produced. It is made from vineyards planted on the lower part of the slopes of Avize, Cramant, and Oger. Its complexity results from the clay-rich soils, which have higher yields than the vineyards that produce ‘Version Originale’ (V. O.).

This beautiful non-vintage champagne Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru, crafted with 100% Chardonnay grapes and disgorged in 2021, is a delight for your taste buds. Beyond its pale yellow color and fine bubbles, it displays aromas of pear, dried fruits, and lemon, with lightly toasted notes of bread and almonds. Medium to full-bodied, it's rich, complex, layered, focused, and fresh, with bright acidity and a long, lingering finish. Love it.







Dom Perignon Plenitude 2 Brut 2003


Dom Pérignon Plénitude 2 (P2) 2003 is a perfect example of climate change. It reflects this Champagne house's dedication to embracing risks. It may never have existed without cautious, bold decisions based on adaptation, flexibility, expertise, and experience, especially while facing such an unprecedented hot vintage.

As a reminder, the sudden and brutal heat wave of 2003 was recorded as the hottest summer in Europe since at least the 16th century. France was hit especially hard. It led to health crises in several countries, and the death toll across Europe was estimated at more than 70,000 people.

Combined with subsequent drought, the heat wave created a crop shortfall in parts of Southern Europe, including vines. The predominant heat was recorded in July and August, partly due to the Western European seasonal lag from the maritime influence of the Atlantic warm waters combined with hot continental air and strong southerly winds. (*)

Following a harsh, dry winter, severe frosts in early April 2003 led to considerable losses. Then, temperatures soared in late May, culminating in extraordinary highs. This was followed by a heat wave that delivered the Champagne region's hottest summer in fifty-three years and the driest in a decade. Due to the heat accelerating the ripening process and reducing grape yield, harvesting surprisingly commenced on August 21.

As a result of this heat wave, Dom Perignon Plenitude 2 2003 is a bold and fleshy champagne that reflects the ripeness of the vintage combined with enough freshness to keep it balanced and harmonious. It presents a slightly advanced golden color. The nose offers floral and limey aromas at first, evolving into riper, sweeter, lemony, candied yellow, and stone fruits. Thanks to early harvest to preserve the acidity and prevent overripeness, the palate is fresh with flavors like those on the nose, with more pronounced lemon and yellow fruits mingling with peppery, spicy, and floral notes. The taste, texture, and structure are somewhat atypical for Dom Plenitude 2 as it behaves like a wave, characterized by ups and downs: starting by unfolding a fruity attack, the mid-palate develops in an ample and coating way before retreating into a more restrained verticality leading to a slightly bitter, savory finish.

It's not bad, but definitely not as good as the amazing 2002 vintage. And yet, you’ve got to give it some credit for even existing, knowing the difficulties of the vintage.







Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Millesime 2010


Dom Ruinart exclusively selects Chardonnay from primarily Grand Cru sites. 90% of the Chardonnay grapes are sourced from the Côte des Blancs (including Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Avize, Chouilly, and Cramant), planted in the Cote’s famous white, calcareous chalky soil where it excels, benefiting from an easterly exposure. The remaining 10% comes from the north-facing Montagne de Reims, specifically from Maison Ruinart's historic vineyard located in the grand cru areas of the village of Sillery.

Dom Ruinart 2010 represents a significant milestone. In its pursuit of excellence, Maison Ruinart opted to extend the wine's aging process to unveil additional layers of flavor. For this cuvée, the oenological team decided to reintroduce cork during aging, confirming its benefits through years of tastings. After 10 years of maturation, it is interesting that the cork has imparted a woody character to this vintage, in addition to the grilled almonds and coffee aromas on the nose and palate. The palate is aromatic and fresh, rich and layered, even if not as long as I would have loved it to be.


To be fair, Dom Ruinart should have been served first, followed by Selosse Initial, which is more complex and elegant, and Dom Perignon P2, which is the boldest despite lacking substance in the finish.


Yet, no matter what, I love champagne, no matter in which order it is served.

That’s all, folks, for today!

Cheers! Santé!

Dom


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Tuesday, January 21, 2025

LeDomduVin: A few bottles opened for a private dinner




A few bottles opened for a private dinner. 


Louis Roederer Cristal Champagne 2002
(Superb and still fresh and lively)

Domaine Ramonet Montrachet 1993 (1.5L)
(totally oxidized, old)

Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny 1991 (1.5L)
(benefitted from the magnum size, good but not great, yet not that bad for a poor to average vintage in Burgundy)

Château l'Eglise Clinet Pomerol 2010
(really nice, loved it)

Dom Perignon Vintage Rosé 1985 (1.5L)
(still alive and kicking, very nice, it also benefitted from the magnum size)

Domaine Joseph Roty Charmes-Chambertin 2016
(magnificent wine, excellent)

Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes 2019
(one of my favorite wines of these past few years, love it, still very young)


Cheers! Santé!

Dom


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Monday, January 20, 2025

LeDomduVin: Château Mouton Rothschild 2015 and the wine-colored Phonograph




Château Mouton Rothschild 2015 

And the wine-colored Phonograph: 

A Harmony of Luxury and Tradition



Château Mouton Rothschild is an iconic Pauillac wine that embodies excellence. It is one of the most prestigious wineries in Bordeaux and the world.

Combined with this wine-colored phonograph, it creates an atmosphere of luxury and refinement, perfect for wine and music lovers.

Embellished by Gerhard Richter's colorful label, the 2015 vintage is particularly remarkable for its complexity and elegance.

A blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc, this wine offers intense aromas of black fruits, blackcurrant, and cherry, with subtle notes of chocolate and tobacco. The palate is rich and velvety, with present yet integrated tannins and a long, persistent finish. Love it.

I can't tell you when and where I took this picture, but I love this antic wine-colored phonograph (and the wine, too).

The phonograph, invented by Thomas Edison in 1877, is an iconic device that revolutionized music listening. It eventually led to the record players (or turntables) used in the mid-to-late 20th century, which have experienced a renaissance in the past decade.

The wine color adds a touch of sophistication and nostalgia to this old phonograph. Its elegant design and refined wine-colored finish perfectly complement the color of the Mouton Rothschild 2015 in the glass and on the capsule. Perfect pairing!

This bottle of Mouton Rothschild 2015 and this wine-colored phonograph form a perfect duo for lovers of luxury and tradition in wine and music.

This picture is an invitation to have a glass of wine while listening to music in a cozy, luxurious, and relaxed atmosphere!

My kind of ambiance!

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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Tuesday, January 14, 2025

LeDomduVin: Chateau Leoville Las Cases Saint-Julien 2009





Château Léoville Las Cases Saint-Julien 2009



Leoville Las Cases is one of these old Chateaux, which is “classic” and/or “traditional,” as they say in Bordeaux.

I visited many times in the 2000s to taste the wine in the barrel and always found it quite challenging to appreciate it “En Primeur” and during its early years after bottling. This wine tests your patience and generally only starts to open up shyly after 8-10 years in the bottle.

I have always described “Las Cases” as an old, grumpy lady (no offense), as it is often dry and austere, showcasing a lack of ripeness, hard and green tannins, and traces of bitterness in the finish (the same as Lafite and a few other Grands Crus of the left bank, for that matter), especially in lesser vintages.

It is a style. An old “classic Bordeaux” style, as they say! And I’m not judging. It is just my opinion. Yet, it is pretty obvious when tasted alongside its neighbors.

When compared to the fruit-forward, friendly, and youthful “Leoville-Poyferre” (which experienced a renaissance in the 2000s and became one of the rising stars of Saint-Julien) and the aristocratic, well-mannered and suave “Leoville Barton”, “Leoville Las Cases” seems still anchored in the past, the reflection of an old style of Bordeaux classicism, shy of moving forward and embracing the future.

Yet, despite some changes and innovations in recent years, my hometown of Bordeaux, the now-resplendent city, the beautiful region, and appellations, the old family-owned Chateaux, and the wines are all somewhat embedded in old traditions and have previously refrained from changes for decades.

Some, like “Leoville Las Cases”, are so embedded in these old traditions and styles that their wines never seem to have evolved or improved (until fairly recently). They are guardians of the past and the establishment, relics of a bygone age, afraid of turning a page that has been both beneficial and detrimental for Bordeaux in recent years.

In my 33-year career as a Sommelier and Wine-Buyer, how often have I had this type of conversation with some Bordeaux producers, winemakers, Chateaux owners, negociants, distributors, and even retailers? Hundreds of times, and it is incredible how the established Chateaux and producers are reluctant to change anything despite the feedback of many oenologues, critics, writers, buyers, and consumers alike advising them to do so.

And yet, that said, they are probably right to stand their ground, as they have proven to the world, time and time again, that the old traditional style of Bordeaux has endured time, critics, trends, and fashions and remained quintessential to the image, reputation, and taste of Bordeaux.

“Las Cases” is a perfect example of most amateurs and connoisseurs' love-hate relationship with the old traditional Bordeaux style. Some want Bordeaux to revamp itself, its taste, and its style to cater to the palate of the new generations and appeal to the market. Others wish the old Bordeaux style to remain and continue defying time, trends, and fashion. I’m kind of in between.

And yet, although “Las Cases” has always been considered a “Super Second,” I would have loved to see it evolve and improve back in the late 1990s and early 2000s, when I was tasting it nearly every year “En Primeur” and many times after at the restaurant and in various tastings. It had the potential to be significantly better.

However, it was difficult for me to foresee it back then, as every time I visited “Las Cases” for the “En Primeur,” I told myself, “Dom, stop your preconceived ideas, clear your head, forget your past experiences and maybe this year you’ll be surprised!” …

… but I was not. Each time, especially in lesser vintages (as stated above), it was closed, restrained, dry, austere, unripped, slightly green, astringent, and bitter. And all my efforts to persuade myself I would like it were in vain, once again. It was not bad but not great, especially for its rank and price.

Then, nearly a decade later, they came to reason, starting with the 2007 vintage when they decided to produce “Petit Lion du Marquis de Las Cases,” a second wine made from the same vines and terroir used to produce Chateau Leoville Las Cases (basically from the younger vines and grapes that are not going into the Grand Vin). It is a “second wine,” not to be confused with “Clos du Marquis,” which is their “second label” (read my article explaining the difference here).

From that vintage on, my dream came true. “Las Cases” became greater and better, more concentrated, more complex and layered, less dry, less austere, still quite earthy and tannic, but less astringent and more fruit-forward, more approachable, and, more importantly, drinkable earlier. The 2009 vintage was (and still is) a fantastic example of how excellent “Las Cases” can sometimes be.

I said “can sometimes be” because even nowadays, I still find “Las Cases” to be an “old-style Bordeaux” despite its evolution for the better over the last decade or so. However, that’s just my opinion and taste.

Yet, who am I to judge? Maybe that’s what it means to be and remain a “timeless classic.” It is a heritage from our ancestors, passed from generation to generation, to be respected and preserved through thick and thin despite the evolution of styles, trends, fashions, and opinions.

The Delon family knows all about it, as it has owned the chateau since the late 19th century. Despite all I said above, I still enjoy opening a bottle of Leoville Las Cases, especially this 2009 vintage. It was magnificent.  






Chateau Léoville Las Cases Saint-Julien 2009


A blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 9% Cabernet Franc, the "Gand Vin" de Leoville Las Cases is produced from vines planted on quaternary gravel atop gravel-sand and gravel-clay subsoil on the former Léoville estate’s terroirs, located mainly in the “Clos” of Léoville Las Cases (also called "Grand Enclos" in French), extending nearly over 60 hectares. These are the vineyards enclosed by a wall with the famous arched entrance topped with a lion (depicted on the label), which you pass by on the road when you leave the village of Saint-Julien to go to Pauillac.

For the 2009 vintage, the flowering and growing season started with ideal conditions, thanks to beautiful climatic conditions without excess heat. Veraison was then rapid and homogeneous, thanks to a very sunny period from the end of July to the beginning of August. Very little precipitation occurred during the grape ripening phase, and August was dry and sunny without scorching the grapes, resulting in an early harvest and remarkable ripeness homogeneity. Overall, 2009 was an excellent vintage in Bordeaux and it showed in the bottle.  

Years of experience with this wine taught me that Leoville Las Cases is always shy and needs decanting, and this 2009 was no exception. After removing and smelling the cork, I poured some into a glass to assess its quality and aromas. It was fragrant yet a little subdued. I then poured the glass into a decanter, swirling the wine to rinse and impregnate the decanter with its aromas. I poured the wine back into the glass and took a sip to assess its quality and flavors. Then, decanted the wine.      

It displayed an intense, dark ruby color. The decanting enhanced the nose, which was more expressive. Aromas of ripe cassis and dark fruits mingled with notes of tobacco cigars, spices, oak, and earthy nuances. The palate was rich, generous, ample, ripe, and layered. Well balanced between the ripeness of the fruit, enough acidity to keep it fresh, and a good amount of present yet integrated tannins, providing both backbones and structure, enhanced by the chewy, fleshy texture. Although really enjoyable now, its gorgeous expansion from the attack to the long and lingering finish promises a long aging potential for those who prefer to wait a little longer.    

I have been disappointed many times by Las Cases for not being as good as it could be while tasting many vintages during my 33-year career in the wine industry, especially for its rank and price (as stated above). Still, I must say that I was really surprised and pleased at the same time by the quality and taste of this 2009 vintage. It was magnificent.      

The moral of this post is that you should never take what you believe for granted. It is better to keep an open mind and remain open to the possibility of being proven wrong. Even if you doubt it first, you could be surprised. 

That's all, folks!  

Cheers! Santé!

Dom



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Friday, January 10, 2025

LeDomduVin: Bodegas Roda "Sela" Rioja 2022





Bodegas Roda "Sela" Rioja 2022



Produced only since 2008, “Sela” is Bodegas Roda's latest project and the youngest of their wines.

The grapes are sourced from vineyards planted with 15 to 30-year-old bush vines cultivated using sustainable viticulture practices.

During harvest, the grapes are hand-picked into 16 kg crates and then sorted by hand at the winery. Alcoholic fermentation occurs spontaneously, followed by malolactic fermentation in French oak vats. 

The wine then undergoes a shorter aging process than its older siblings, spending 12 months in second-use French oak barrels.

The resulting wine is friendly, bold, juicy, ripe, and full of character, making it surprisingly approachable in youth and ready to be enjoyed shortly after its release, unlike other Roda wines, which usually require more time to showcase their flavors and full potential.

This wine also possesses excellent aging potential in the bottle for those who prefer to wait for it a little.

Bodegas Roda likes to say that it is a wine that attracts young people or those with a younger palate who are beginning their journey into the world of wine.

Although I am not that young anymore, I could not agree more, as this wine has a lot of youthful appeal, and I can understand why it pleases younger drinkers. It was delicious with the Spanish tapas I had with it.






Bodegas Roda “Sela” Rioja 2022


"Sela" 2022 is a blend of 89% Tempranillo, 4% Graciano, and 7% Garnacha, featuring a dark, intense red color. The nose is fresh and fragrant, offering bold, fruity aromas of ripe dark plum, red cherries, and berries, enhanced by subtle floral and earthy notes and a faint hint of oak, despite its 12 months of aging in the barrel. The palate is fresh, fruity, round, ample, rich, generous, and layered, with a good balance, structure, and fine, integrated tannins. It expands nicely with a lovely texture from the beginning to the lingering finish. Love it.

Not only for the absolute beginners! 😉😁👍🍷

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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Wednesday, January 1, 2025

LeDomduVin: I ❤️ Wine Yearly!






I ❤️ Wine Yearly



I don't do "Dry January". I do "Wine Yearly"!

I find it very hypocritical to stop drinking for a whole month if it is to binge the rest of the year. For what? To clear your conscience? Give me a break! 

Remember that "Dry January" was created in England in the early 2010s to lower or even prevent the English habit of binge drinking beers and strong alcoholic beverages (Whisky, Gin, Vodka, and other spirits). 

It then rapidly spread throughout Europe and the US (followed by the rest of the world) and was extended to All alcoholic drinks, including wine. Then, it became this insidious prohibition we all know today. What an aberration!  

Either you get help and stop drinking for good, or you learn how to discipline and moderate yourself and drink throughout the year, moderately and responsibly. That's it! No hypocritical excuses. 

It is like at my daughter's school when they cut the air-conditioning for 1 day to supposedly help global warming. That's bullshit! Don't keep it all year long. Only use it when necessary. Open the windows instead. Let the natural air in. That will definitely help! 

I understand that drinking alcohol can be a major issue with devastating consequences for most people who abuse it by drinking in excess and often mixing it with other substances, usually leading to health problems, violence, domestic violence, job issues, social issues, accidents, incidents, etc... 

Yet, like everything else, it is within the abuse and excess that the problem lies. If you drink moderately and responsibly, there is no real issue, as the problem (like for any type of alcohol) is not in the wine itself but in how much you drink of it. 

If you do not know how to drink and/or when to control yourself and stop, then it is on you, and you should get some help and probably stop drinking altogether.     

Most health problems (due to alcohol) result from alcohol excess and abuse mingling with antecedent health and/or psychological issues and/or because of drugs or medication consumption while drinking. 

That said, I respect those who want to do "Dry January." It is their choice, and I'm not judging, but personally, I won't. 

This January, like all January for the past 33 years of my career as a Sommelier and Wine Buyer, I will continue to buy, open, prepare, serve, and drink wine (and other alcoholic beverages), as it is my job, my passion, and my life. 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom 

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LeDomduVin: This January... Keep it dry!




This January... Keep it dry! 



I find it very hypocritical to stop drinking for a whole month if it is to binge the rest of the year. For what? To clear your conscience? Give me a break! 

Remember that "Dry January" was created in England in the early 2010s to lower or even prevent the English habit of binge drinking beers and strong alcoholic beverages (Whisky, Gin, Vodka, and other spirits). 

It then rapidly spread throughout Europe and the US (followed by the rest of the world) and was extended to All alcoholic drinks, including wine. Then, it became this insidious prohibition we all know today. What an aberration!  

Either you get help and stop drinking for good, or you learn how to discipline and moderate yourself and drink throughout the year, moderately and responsibly. That's it! No hypocritical excuses. 

It is like at my daughter's school when they cut the air-conditioning for 1 day to supposedly help global warming. That's bullshit! Don't keep it all year long. Only use it when necessary. Open the windows instead. Let the natural air in. That will definitely help! 

I understand that drinking alcohol can be a major issue with devastating consequences for most people who abuse it by drinking in excess and often mixing it with other substances, usually leading to health problems, violence, domestic violence, job issues, social issues, accidents, incidents, etc... 

Yet, like everything else, it is within the abuse and excess that the problem lies. If you drink moderately and responsibly, there is no real issue, as the problem (like for any type of alcohol) is not in the wine itself but in how much you drink of it. 

If you do not know how to drink and/or when to control yourself and stop, then it is on you, and you should get some help and probably stop drinking altogether.     

Most health problems (due to alcohol) result from alcohol excess and abuse mingling with antecedent health and/or psychological issues and/or because of drugs or medication consumption while drinking. 

That said, I respect those who want to do "Dry January." It is their choice, and I'm not judging, but personally, I won't. 

This January, like all January for the past 33 years of my career as a Sommelier and Wine Buyer, I will continue to buy, open, prepare, serve, and drink wine (and other alcoholic beverages), as it is my job, my passion, and my life. 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom 

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Sunday, December 29, 2024

LeDomduVin: Christmas Bubbles






Christmas bubbles 



Instead of opening the usual champagne brands for Christmas, I always like to venture out into the lesser-known path. 

This year, I discovered a Champagne I had only heard little of, yet never seen nor tasted before: 
Champagne Le Brun de Neuville.

Its label attracted me immediately as I entered the wine store. First, because I did not know it, and I'm always curious about labels that I don't know. Secondly, its predominantly white color contrasted with the rest of the champagne labels on the shelf (a very good marketing strategy, IMO). 

I opened it on Christmas Eve with some "blenis" topped with sour cream and a touch of Caviar. It was a pairing made in heaven! 🍾🥂






Le Brun de Neuville Millesime 2012 Brut


Produced from 40-year-old vines, planted on clay and chalky soils on the limestone hillside of Côte de Sézanne, facing South / Southeast, this champagne is a blend of roughly 97.5% Chardonnay and 2.5% Pinot Noir (on the label, yet 97% and 3% on their website), bottled in 2013 and aged for about 10 years on lees, before its disgorgement in January 2024, with dosage at 6g/l. 

This champagne is fresh, juicy, exquisite, highly recommended, and super easy to drink. Lemon zest and yellow stone fruit aromas mingle with mineral, floral, and earth-chalky notes. The palate is smooth, gentle, delicate, yet zesty, fresh and dry, yet again juicy, well-balanced, and long. Light to medium-bodied and gliding nicely from the beginning to the lingering finish, it definitely calls for another glass. And the pairing with Caviar is delightful. It would be great with oysters, too. 😋🍾🥂👍😁

Superb value for money, especially for a vintage Champagne! Love it! 🥂🍾

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom 

(*) This champagne is an exclusivity at @watsons.wine HK #watsonwine

More info on their website at: https://lebrundeneuville.fr/en


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Thursday, December 19, 2024

LeDomduVin: Another Clos-Vougeot 😁👍🍷 Labet-Dechelette Chateau de La Tour Clos-Vougeot Grand Cru 2020



Another Clos-Vougeot 😁👍🍷


Labet-Dechelette Chateau de La Tour 

Clos-Vougeot Grand Cru 2020



Don't ask me how or why, but I am in a Clos-Vougeot mood lately (see my previous post).

Falling into a phase for a specific appellation or Cru happens a lot to most Sommeliers. It is a behavior that is difficult to explain. It is like falling in love. You can't control it. It just happens.

For example, last year, I went through a phase of liking Gevrey-Chambertin wines, specifically Charmes-Chambertin and Mazoyères-Chambertin. I bought and opened quite a few bottles from various producers for a while, then moved on to something else.

Like most people, my phases tend to follow the seasons. If we stick with French wines, I usually go from North to South:

Spring: I usually favor medium white and red Burgundy wines and some Loire Valley and Alsace wines.

Summer: I prefer light reds and whites from Burgundy and Loire Valley, as well as whites from Jura and Alsace. And, of course, the Rosé from Provence and other regions, too.

Autumn: If the weather is warm and dry, the so-called "Indian summer" is usually the perfect time for medium white and red Bordeaux wines and northern Rhone. And slightly heavier white and red Burgundy, like this wine from Vougeot.

Winter: The ideal period to appreciate heavier, stronger, and bolder wines from Bordeaux, the southwest, the Languedoc-Roussillon, and more, especially the Rhone Valley.

So why open a wine from Clos de Vougeot (or Clos-Vougeot) in December? It is the perfect wine to finish Autumn and start Winter.

A brief introduction to Clos de Vougeot


For those who may not know, a "Clos" (French for "enclosure") is a walled vineyard. Walled vineyards protect the grapes from theft (and other hazards) and may impact or even improve the microclimate. 

Clos de Vougeot, located in the heart of the Côte de Nuits, encompasses most of the vineyard area belonging to the commune of Vougeot. It is bordered by the neighboring villages of Chambolle-Musigny, Flagey-Échezeaux, and Vosne-Romanée. The slopes at the upper end of the Clos border the vineyards of Musigny and Grands Échezeaux. 

Founded around 1110 AD by the monks of Cîteaux (Cistercian monks), who remained its owners until the French Revolution in 1789, the Clos de Vougeot is an iconic symbol of Burgundy.

The Clos encompasses 50.59 hectares (of which 49.25 ha are under production*) that have never been subdivided (except by parcels starting in 1889), preserving its identity within the walls constructed five centuries ago. Its wines are among the finest of the Grand Cru reds, and it has held Grand Cru status since July 31, 1937.

The château, which adjoins the cellars and the winery, has giant presses dating back to the 12th and 14th centuries. It is built in the Burgundian Renaissance style and is open to visitors. The Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin holds its meetings, or “chapters,” here. Therefore, it is no surprise that some of the finest food and wine in France can be found in this region.

As one of the top Burgundian Grand Crus, Clos de Vougeot offers some of the fleshiest wines of the Cotes de Nuits. Its wines are more opulent, richer, and fleshier than those of the neighboring appellations to the north, like Gevrey-Chambertin and Chambolle-Musigny, which are usually lighter and more delicate. Some Clos-Vougeot even come close to the complexity, texture, and structure of some wines from Vosne-Romanée and Nuits-St-Georges.





Labet-Dechelette Chateau de La Tour Clos-Vougeot Grand Cru 2020


For seven centuries, the Cistercian monks were the sole owners of Vougeot. After the French Revolution, the Clos remained under state ownership until 1818 and was subdivided in 1889. At that time, François Labet's great-grandfather, Mr. Beaudet of Beaune, was one of six buyers who went on to build Château de la Tour in 1890.

In the early 1980s, François inherited the 6.7 Ha (15-acre) family vineyard and produced his first vintage in 1984. Since then, he has continued to make wine from these highly regarded Burgundian vines. 

To honor the unique land with its exceptional soils and pay tribute to his ancestors, who farmed in the same manner, François has kept the vines free from outside management and chemical influences. He practices an intimate, natural, and regenerative approach to viticulture.

Clos de Vougeot is home to over 80 owners, with Labet being the largest landholder, possessing 6.7 Ha (15 acres). Aside from the renowned Château du Clos de Vougeot, Château de la Tour is the only other château within the entire vineyard.



*****work in progress*****



Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

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* 2018

Sources: 






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Tuesday, December 17, 2024

LeDomduVin: Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2018

 




Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg 

Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2018


Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg was established in 1933 by Jeanne Gibourg and André Mugneret.

Their only son, Georges Mugneret, gradually expanded the estate holdings through successive plot purchases in parallel to his career as an ophthalmologist. This led to the creation of a second Domaine: Domaine Georges Mugneret.

Georges met his wife Jacqueline in 1958 while serving in Algeria. Upon returning to France, they married and had two daughters, Marie-Christine and Marie-Andrée.

After Georges passed away in 1988, Marie-Christine resigned from her position as a chemist to specialize in Oenology. She took over the family business with her mother. Several years later, Marie-Andrée joined them after obtaining her diploma in Oenology from the Université de Bourgogne in Dijon.

In 2009, Domaines Mugneret-Gibourg and Georges Mugneret were combined to create Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg. The same year, Jacqueline retired, and today, the estate is managed by the two sisters, Marie-Christine and Marie-Andrée. Each has two daughters (the fourth generation) who are also involved in the Domaine.

The estate spans over 8 hectares (nearly 20 acres) across nine different appellations, producing between 20,000 and 30,000 bottles of exquisite wines from Bourgogne to the Grand Crus.

The vineyards are carefully tended with respect to the environment and minimal intervention, adopting sustainable methods that enhance each plot's unique terroir expression.

All grapes are harvested by hand and thoroughly selected before de-stemming. In the cellar, the wines are fermented in tanks and aged for about 18 months in varying amounts of new oak, ranging from 10% for village wines to 70% for Grand Crus.

This Clos Vougeot is from the first parcel bought by Georges Mugneret in 1953.

The vines are planted in pebbly and gravelly soil with very low clay content, allowing them to establish deep roots easily. The resulting wine balances the power and finesse of Ruchottes-Chambertin with the elegance of Echezeaux, yet it has the most significant aging potential among these three Grands Crus.




Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2018


The wine is a deep garnet color in the glass. The nose is fragrant and complex, showcasing floral and ripe cherry fruit notes alongside earthy and woody aromas. The palate is generous, rich, ample, and smooth, demonstrating an excellent balance between the fruit, the acidity, the integrated tannins, and a long lingering finish. While enjoyable now, it has strong aging potential and will improve with a few more years, rewarding those with the patience to wait.


Cheers! Santé!

Dom



For info on their official website at https://www.mugneret-gibourg.com/fr/


Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2024, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).