LeDomduVin: When the opportunity presents itself - Palmer 2009 and Lafleur 2008

When the opportunity presents itself.

The other day, I served a small group of cigar enthusiasts in one of our private rooms. It was an evening of cigars, wines, snacks, and karaoke.

Usually, for cigar evenings, I like to serve aromatic, flavorful, deep, and powerful wines, so that the aromas and taste of the wine are not masked by the smoky smell and taste of the cigar.

In general, Pauillac and Pomerol wines go well with cigars. Their richness and complexity complement those of the cigars.

However, that evening, I decided to open a Margaux: Chateau Palmer 2009.

Margaux is definitely not my go-to choice when it comes to pairing wine and cigars. Usually, Margaux wines are too fine, light, and delicate; they fade rapidly when paired with the cigar.

But those who know the 2009 vintage from Chateau Palmer know that it is a great wine, harmonious and rich in ripe dark fruit, with amplitude, richness, complexity, and thickness, with an endless finish, which can definitely tolerate cigars, or even enhance them.

It was a wise choice, and I was very satisfied with it.

Suddenly, one of the guests asked me if I had a 2008 wine because it was a special vintage for her.

I told her, "I'll check." I ran to the cellar. I didn't have much choice in stock. It was either a bottle of “La Fleur-Petrus” or one of “Lafleur". Two beautiful wines from Pomerol. I took both bottles.

Back in the private room, I decided to open the bottle of Lafleur Pomerol 2008. After all, when the opportunity presents itself, why not?

First of all, because I love this wine. And, since the price was apparently not a problem, might as well treat myself and taste a wine I don't open very often.

Although Lafleur 2008 is lighter in taste and texture and slightly more advanced in age than Palmer 2009, it is no less aromatic or complex. It has tertiary aromas and a rustic, earthy feeling that I like. The lingering finish is delightful.

Despite their differences, one is bold and powerful, and the other is medium-bodied and heartier yet refined and elegant; both these wines work wonders with the cigars!

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Classic Trio - Selosse / Leflaive / Haut-Brion

Classic Trio

In the world of wine, there are unmistakable names, flagships of their appellations, such as Selosse, Leflaive, and Haut-Brion.

I like to select, open, and taste these wines periodically. This allows me to see their evolution and their aging potential.

I have opened these wines several times over the last three years, and I have to admit that I never get tired of them. They always give me so much pleasure every time.

Jacques Selosse V.O "Version Originale" Blanc-de-Blancs Grand Cru Champagne Extra Brut NV

It still delivers charm, character, intensity, complexity, and concentration with finesse, elegance, and beautiful minerality. Loved it.

Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Pucelles" 2017

This wine is sentimental to me. Leflaive “Les Pucelles” was the first Puligny-Montrachet that I ever tasted. In 1997, I was working as a young Sommelier in a private club in London (Monte's on Sloan Street), and a customer ordered this bottle. It was a 1992 or 1993 vintage; I don't know anymore. It was a revelation, and I have loved this wine ever since. This 2017 combined elegance, freshness, zestiness, and minerality. Some may say it is a bit tight and lean, but it is just a question of taste. I liked it.

Chateau Haut-Brion Premier Grand Cru Classe Graves 2016

I know, I repeat myself, but Haut-Brion is my favorite Bordeaux wine. Over the last three years, I have opened many bottles because I love this wine so much. It has remained quite consistent and has not really evolved. It has opened up a little and seems more approachable now. That said, it is still a very young wine, which will satisfy those who have the patience to let it flourish in the cellar for a few more years. Once again, it was really superb.

There are those who make good wine and those who make great wine. These three wines undoubtedly belong to the latter category.

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Latour 2005 vs Latour 2009

Latour 2005 vs Latour 2009

It is not every day that I open two bottles of the same Chateau in different vintages, especially one of my favorite First Growths.

Comparing two vintages of Chateau Latour, such as 2005 and 2009, is tricky as both have similarities. Yet, they are distinctively and intrinsically different.

Both were solar vintages with high temperatures and dry, hot growing seasons, which produced ripe, rich, layered, and concentrated wines.

These conditions could have resulted in high alcohol, unbalanced, or cooked wines.

Fortunately, some cool nights and enough rain at the right time provided juiciness, balance, and freshness while preventing drought and overripeness, resulting in wines combining complexity and depth with great aging potential.

Ultimately, 2005 was an excellent vintage that produced some fantastic wines, while 2009 is considered a legendary vintage that produced stellar wines.

This might explain the 200+ Euro price difference between the two. On Wine Searcher, Chateau Latour 2005 starts at around 680 Euros, and Latour 2009 starts at around 870 Euros, and it shows in the glass.

Although both displayed a dark color, undoubtedly due to their age difference, the aspect of the 2005 seemed lighter, more medium-deep ruby color with slightly more advanced nuances, while the 2009 was of a darker ruby red with some purple touch.

The difference between the two wines was quite significant on the nose. The 2005 was soft, gentle, discreet, and sophisticated. It displayed attractive aromas of red and dark berries, cassis, graphite, coffee, and licorice, with earthy, spicy, and floral hints. On the other hand, the 2009 was bold, powerful, and confident. It boasted dark berries, blackberries, and mocha aromas, with hints of toasted oak and chocolate.

These differences appeared even more evident on the palate. Although complex, balanced, sophisticated, and finely chiseled, the 2005 seemed lighter and dryer than the 2009, which was rich, opulent, juicy, and chewy. It had plenty of dark ripe fruits, excellent balance, and concentration, expanding nicely to the lingering finish.

I loved them both despite their differences, yet I found the 2009 more pleasurable to my palate. My advice: don’t open and drink them side by side, as it might alter your opinion about the 2005, which is also a superb wine yet slightly less expressive than its younger sibling.

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Bubbly foam pattern (froth) on top of the wine in the glass after using Coravin

Bubbly foam pattern (froth) on top of the wine

 in the glass after using Coravin

Have you ever experienced a bubbly foam pattern (froth) on top of the wine in the glass after using Coravin?

If not, know that it may happen; even if your glass is spotlessly clean, it has nothing to do with the wine, and this is usually the reason why.

It is usually due to a slight excess of gas released into the glass before or after pouring the wine. If the wine is frothy at first (like in the picture), you might press the Coravin button too hard or too many times.

You're supposed to tap the button, wait for the wine to stop pouring, tap again, and so on until you've poured your desired amount.

This method is a bit slow, but you're not supposed to hold the button down or quickly press it multiple times while pouring the wine. Otherwise, you will release this excess of gas.

To prevent foam, press the button once before pouring the wine to release the excess gas in the air rather than in the glass; then, you can pour the wine into the glass. It might take some practice before you get used to it and become a pro at using Coravin.

If you always get the frothy pattern, do not panic. The argon gas used in Coravin is inert, colorless, odorless, and nonreactive, so it has no adverse effects on the wine.

And for those who are not familiar with Argon, here are a few facts:

Argon is added to wine to displace air. Because it is denser than air, it settles above the liquid, protecting the wine from souring and oxidation.

This method often preserves open wine and liquid bottles in bars, restaurants, and even barrels in wineries.

Argon does not dissolve in wine and, therefore, provides a long-term blanket of protection for the wine.

As for the time of preservation, Coravin claims to "preserve wine for months", yet from personal experience, it is more likely to be a few weeks, depending on the amount of wine remaining in the bottle, of course (the more wine in the bottle the longer).

Hope you've found this post helpful.

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Champagne Henriot, William Fevre Chablis and Chateau Brane-Cantenac

Champagne Henriot, William Fevre Chablis and Chateau Brane-Cantenac 

Sometimes, I do serve affordable wines! 😉😄👍🥂🍷

Champagne Henriot Millesime 2008

Established in 1808, Champagne Henriot is one of the rare independent Champagne houses that has remained in the same family throughout its history. The 2008 vintage celebrates its 200th anniversary. 

A blend of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir, Henriot 2008 is a delightful champagne. It is fresh, crisp, rich, dense, and "gourmand." It has lovely stone fruits, white flowers, mineral aromas, great acidity, structure, texture, and a long lingering finish. It is really enjoyable and a steal at that price! 

William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2016

Light yellow color with green nuances. Fresh, clean nose, mineral, white and yellow stone fruits, lemony aromas, with light buttery notes. Fresh, clean, and zesty on the palate, focus and steely with razor-sharp acidity, balanced, light and limpid, cleansing. Loved it. 

Chateau Brane-Cantenac Margaux 2001

I found the 2001 vintage somewhat thin and austere but still quite enjoyable. The wine presented secondary and tertiary aromas with red cherry, raspberry, black currant, liquorice, earth, minerals, and some oaky and vegetal notes. The palate has good acidity and moderate tannins, yet it was light and lacked complexity and texture. The finish was shorter than I would have liked. Although lacking in substance and depth, the wine tasted fresh and juicy, with slightly unripe red fruit tones and vegetal notes that needed some time to mellow with aeration. I carefully decanted the wine to allow it to breathe and to prevent any sediments in the decanter. It was ok, but not my favorite vintage from this Chateau. 

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Mise en place!

Mise en place!

When you're a Sommelier, having some classics from Bordeaux and Burgundy on hand in the cellar is essential. 😊👍🍷 

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Dom Perignon Vintage 2013

DOM PERIGNON 2013

You’ve got to love Dom Perignon!

I opened these bottles the other day, which inspired me to write an article about the evolution of Dom Perignon over the last 40 years. 

Work in progress. Check my blog in September for the article. 

Dom Perignon Vintage 2013 

Fresh, crisp, elegant, and racy, it is lighter, less rich, and less textured than the 2012 (IMO), yet it has lovely density and structure with refreshing acidity. It boasts floral and mineral aromas and flavors with yellow fruits and yeasty nuances. Perfect as an aperitif and with light appetizers. 

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Chateau Montrose Saint-Estephe 2009

Chateau Montrose Saint Estephe 2009

It was cigar night again on the yacht (not mine; I just work there😅), and I needed to open something that would pair well with it. I usually like to open rich and bold Bordeaux wines with Cigars.

A Pauillac is always a good match, yet I wanted to open something different. I had this bottle of Montrose 2009 in the cellar, and I knew it would not disappoint.

Bordeaux 2009 is a solar vintage offering plenty of ripeness, richness, and boldness that can easily support and enhance the cigar's complexity.

That bottle of Montrose 2009 demonstrated that it could do just that and so much more.

Chateau Montrose Saint Estephe 2009

In the glass, it boasts an intense ruby-red, opaque color. The nose is dark, ripe, warm, captivating, and inviting, offering lots of dark fruits and berries mingling with earthy, smoky notes of coffee, leather, graphite, pencil shave, and toasted oak. The palate is rich, opulent, thick, bold, and beautifully textured. Its structure is balanced between the fruit ripeness, just enough acidity to keep it fresh and juicy, and plenty of earthy tannins (slightly austere, as always, a common trait of Saint-Estephe wines) that will ease with time. The potent and complex mid-palate ends on a long, earthy finish. 

This warm, dense, powerful, charming wine offers excellent aging potential. It is one of the most complex and full-bodied Montrose I have tasted. It is definitely too young if you ask me, but still, I loved it. 

Decanting about one hour and a half before serving is recommended. 

In the absence of a good cigar, have it with food! 😉

This is the epitome of great wine. 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Some exceptional wines! Krug, Marc Colin and Mongeard-Mugneret

Some exceptional wines! 

Krug, Marc Colin and Mongeard-Mugneret

I opened these bottles for a private dinner in a private club. I was excited as I hadn’t tried these bottles for a while.  It is not every day that I open bottles at more than 10K HKD (more than 1200 Euros) per bottle (at least for 2 of them). It would be a Sommelier's dream if I could.  Yet, I’m lucky enough to be able to do it occasionally.

Krug Clos du Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 2006

Right after popping the cork, fresh, delicate aromas of apple, pear, and stone fruits mingling with lightly toasted brioche, mineral, and floral notes emanated from the bottle. The palate was rich, ample, generous, and layered, yet silky and sophisticated, with barely perceptible refined bubbles. It had a gorgeous “vinous” quality (as we say in French), resembling more of a wine than a Champagne. Balanced and focused, it expanded bountifully from the attack to the aristocratic lengthy finish. Although beautiful on its own, I recommend having it with rich and creamy dishes. What a magnificent, debonaire, and noble champagne!

Marc Colin Batard Montrachet Grand Cru 2018

Beyond its pale golden color, it offered powerful aromas of yellow and stone fruits, combined with floral, mineral, toasted, buttery notes and herbal hints I could not describe (like Tea, maybe?). This Batard Montrachet was rich, ample, generous, and layered like the champagne above, yet it was more concentrated and potent. Fortunately, it has enough acidity to keep it fresh and balanced. I loved its structure and texture, enhanced with that glycerine sensation that coats the palate. Lots of minerality and butteriness with a hint of green tea in the lingering finish. It could benefit from a few more years in the cellar. One of the best Batard Montrachet I have had in a while!

Mongeard-Mugneret Richebourg Grand Cru 2019

Beautiful, fresh, attractive nose. The first aroma that came to my mind was “griottes” (a French word for “wild cherries”), then red and dark berries, combined with earthy, herbal, and mineral notes and peppery, spicy hints. The palate is juicy and tangy, offering plenty of freshly squeezed grapes and zesty acidity, with earthy notes mingling with present yet integrated tannins that will mellow with time. Gently concentrated and textured elegantly and refreshingly, it displays a sophisticated structure gaining complexity from the juicy attack and the expanding palate to the smooth, seamless finish. Opening such a young wine with so much potential was a sacrilege. Yet, what a memorable experience!

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Blind tasting of Chateau Latour 1995 - A beautiful surprise!

Blind tasting of Château Latour 1995 

A beautiful surprise! 

Last night, I was challenged to do a blind tasting to find this wine. 

While I was taking care of a private dinner in one of the Salons of the company's Private club, my colleague Sommelier, Leo, brought me a glass of wine from the party he was taking care of. 

He said: "You have to guess what it is."

I have always loved blind-tasting, as it challenges your senses, taste buds, brain, memory, skills, knowledge, ego, and reputation.

A good Sommelier always proceeds by elimination, making educated guesses based on his/her knowledge, experience, and skills to define the region, the grape variety(ies), the vintage, the appellation, and, if really good, even the name of the Cru, the name of the Chateau/Domaine/Estate, and/or the owner or winemaker's name. 

So, I took the glass and proceeded to a thorough examination. 

1. Aspect/Color: I always look at the aspect and color first to define the age. Medium garnet color with orange brick reflects on the rime and many sediments. It was too advanced to be in the 2000s, yet it was not old enough to be in the 80s.

It had to be in the 90s.

2. Nose/aromas: Beautiful yet subtle and delicate nose, with aromas of dark berries, cassis, licorice, sandalwood, with marked earthy notes of forest floor and light truffle, some discreet floral hints.

Bordeaux immediately came to mind. It was pretty obvious on the nose already. A good vintage for sure: not 90, maybe 95, 96, or 98.

3. Taste: I was startled by how good this wine was. Sophisticated, layered, complex, and generous yet in a very refined, subtle, elegant, and classy style. Very focused and perfectly integrated with no roughness, excellent balance, seamless finish, and refreshing acidity. This wine was not about weight like some of these super-extracted powerhouses. It was all about elegance, sophistication, and subtlety.

Such a well-crafted wine could only be one of the Top Bordeaux. Due to its refreshing acidity, I was thinking about 96.

Leo was looking at me with eyes showing he was kind of impressed I immediately guessed it was in the 1990s. While he didn't agree or disagree, I knew I was right. My guts and experiences rarely failed me. 

4. Region/Appellation: Left bank or right bank? That is the question.

Left Bank: Haut-Medoc, for sure. One of the Top appellations, but which one? The wine was not dry and austere enough to be a Saint-Estephe. Too serious and aristocratic to be a Saint-Julien. Too rich and complex to be a Margaux. In fact, the nose and palate resembled more of a Pauillac. Could it be? Definitely possible...

And yet, the earthiness and slight hint of truffle reminded me somewhat of something between a Saint-Emilion and a Pomerol. A "Saint-Pomerol," joked Leo. I like this amusing analogy. 😁👍🍷

Right Bank: Why not? Maybe? Due to the wine's quality and characteristics, it could be a Saint-Emilion or a light Pomerol. 

5. The grape(s): The wine was quite round, soft, and integrated, so it felt more like a Merlot-based wine than a Cabernet-based wine. Its silky texture reminded me of some wines from Cheval-Blanc, but without the tannins of the Cabernet Franc. 

Due to its earthiness and complexity, I opted for Pomerol. If correct, it had to be one of the Top: Petrus, Le Pin, Lafleur, Vieux Chateau Certan, La Conseillante, Trotanoy, L'Evangile, La Fleur-Petrus ... etc... 

Yet, if it was based on Cabernet Sauvignon, then it could only be one of the first growths. 

Difficult to tell. My mind was thinking Pomerol, but my taste buds were telling me to stick with the Left Bank, a Saint-Julien maybe, but more probably a Pauillac due to its complexity, layered structure, and sophisticated overall texture and mouthfeel. A high pedigree, no doubt. 

This blind tasting was harder than I thought it would be. And yet, I was happy as my senses, taste buds, knowledge, and skills were not so rusty after all. It was an exciting challenge. 

More especially, Leo was trying to lead me down the wrong path while I reflected and thought aloud. 

Seeing that I may have reached a conclusion,  Leo finally said: "So, what do you think?"

I answered: "Definitely a Bordeaux. Vintage... I will say 1996 due to its freshness and juiciness and because it does not show any of the ripe or even jammy characteristics of a hot or solar vintage. Probably Merlot-based due to its softness and medium color. Maybe a Pomerol due to its earthiness and a slight hint of truffle, reminding me of a Vieux Château Certan I tried (I am a huge fan of VCC). I will say Petrus or Vieux Chateau Certan 1996."

Yet, that said, my taste buds and my heart continued to tell me that I should have stuck with my first choice of the Left bank. 

He replied: "Very interesting, but it is a Pauillac and a 1995 vintage. In terms of the quality, you are correct, it is a Top Wine, it is one of the first growths." 

(Dang! I knew I should have stuck to my first impression... )

My mind was racing: "It is too polished and silky to be Lafite Rothschild. Too consistent and focused to be Mouton-Rothschild. Too rich and complex to be Margaux. Not characteristics enough to be Haut-Brion. And yet, normally, Latour is a much heavier and stronger wine. More especially in a hot/solar vintage like 1995. How could it be?" 

I was puzzled and startled at the same time... 

Leo disappeared and came back with the empty bottle and another glass containing a small amount of it so that I could enjoy it again. I was ecstatic. 

What an incredible wine and such a beautiful surprise! 

It was a real challenge for me as the wine presented characteristics that, in my opinion, resembled more of 1996 than 1995. Also, the angularities usually found in Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines (e.g., heavy structure and texture, solid tannins, and even astringency, etc...) had all disappeared and integrated over time. The wine has such a medium color, a light structure, and a silky, gentle, elegant texture, and it was so fresh and juicy, so youthful, too; I thought it was from a cooler vintage, with higher acidity and less concentration. Yet, I was wrong. 

Not completely wrong as I guessed the region and decade, but still wrong, as I could not have guessed the appellation of Pauillac, even if my guts and taste buds told me that it could be it in the first place.

Lesson learned: one should always trust his/her first impression and gut feeling.  

Moreover, I couldn't even have guessed the Chateau, as I would have never imagined that Chateau Latour, which is usually such a strong, rich, opulent, complex, and generous wine, could become such a refined, elegant, racy, and subtle wine, overtime, 29 years later. 

However, this bottle of Chateau Latour 1995 was absolutely stunning and a great example of the striking wine quality only this Chateau is capable of in Pauillac. 

I recommend you to try it if you have the opportunity one day. 

Once again, it proved that blind tasting is hard and that even the best of us can have a tough time guessing when we are tricked and steered wrongly by some preconceived ideas and past experiences. 

This blind-tasting exercise was humbling, as even a knowledgeable, experienced, and skilled Sommelier and Wine Buyer like me, with a 33-year career in the wine industry and a highly trained palate, opening and tasting top-tier Bordeaux and Burgundy wines regularly can have a hard time guessing. 

Thank you, and kudos to Frédéric Engerer and his team at Château Latour. This is a magnificent wine! 

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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