Quick view on Natural wines and 2009 Domaine La Grange Tiphaine "Clef de Sol" Red Amboise Touraine Loire Valley France

 Quick view on Natural wines

People seems to be still undecided about natural wines, whether they are Organic, Biodynamic, Sustainable, Lutte Raisonnée, etc... Most consumers are not certain if they like them or not, and although more people tend to gradually by some, knowingly and/or unknowingly, still a big majority do not understand, comprehend or simply like Natural wines. 

The reactions are often mixed and usually more negative than positive: doesn't taste good; not clean; not filtered; taste too earthy, like soil or dirt; too funky; and so on. 

It is understandable, because by the early 90s, when the green movement, led by the wine producers and winemakers of the old world, startled people by coming back to and using ancient, more naturally oriented methods in the vineyards and the cellars, driven by methods and technologies protective of the environment, most customers didn't fall for it because most wines were slightly faulty and unstable. Almost to the point of being undrinkable, but, at that time, it was almost a trend, like a novelty to find esoteric, faulty wines and translate their weirdness for some funky, earthy aromas and flavors that were supposed to be there, when in fact they were NOT supposed to be. 

It was fashionable to discover wines produced naturally with a minimum of chemicals, exhibiting faults, which were mostly due to unclean cellars, brettanomyces, volatile acidity, slight unwilling oxidation, badly harvested and sorted grapes, bad cork, and so on. And Natural wines kept that reputation for a long time in the eyes of the consumers. Organic on the label meant "Not Good", for years. 


Yet, the organic movement intensified, the methods were refined and better adapted, and the resulting wines tasted better and were more appealing to an increasing number of amateurs. Produced mainly by smaller, unknown producers, the press didn't pay so much attention at first. But, by the early 2000s, it became fashionable to be green and to protect the environment; therefore consumers looked at Natural wines with different eyes.  

Nearly 20 years later, something has to be said about natural wines, they are juicier and better than ever, and the following wine will prove you that Natural wines can even be excellent. Something that you may want to know is that a high percentage of western Europe producers (France, Italy, Spain, Germany, Switzerland and Portugal), are using Organic and Biodynamic methods. It is just not specified on the label, because to be fully "certified" requires a lot of check-ups and approvals from various organizations and acceptation from the "Appellation d'Origine Controlée" of origin, plus a lot papers and administration. 

Moreover, you can be 100% Organic, if you neighbor uses chemicals, you will never receive full certification due to proximity and contamination via the air and the soil. That is one of the main reasons why, most producers in the old world adopted the "Lutte Raisonnée" and "sustainable" methods, which are less strict and more adaptable to their needs in the vineyards and the cellar. In short, there are much more Natural wines on the shelves than one may think or believe.    

In any cases, the other thing that I wanted to bring your attention to is that we didn't invent anything! Natural wines made from Organic, Biodynamic and sustainable methods, are simply what our ancestors used to make, in more rudimentary cellars with less equipment and technologies, surely, however but very similar. 

I wrote it many times before in previous posts, but as I always say, Us, people of the 21st century, like to give specific, somewhat extravagant or scientific names to things that have always existed and have always been known by our grandfather and great-grandfather and before for centuries. Things that we seemed to have forgotten or simply ignored and just rediscovered, like Organic and Biodynamic methods. 

• Organic, the ancestral way, means no use of any pesticides, herbicides, chemicals and non-organic fertilizers. Which was basically the way things were done before the first and more especially the second World War, when most chemicals, gas and other oil derivative products started to submerge and pollute the markets.        

• Sustainable means partial and adapted used of products, as natural as possible, to conserve an ecological balance by avoiding depletion of natural resources.

• Lutte Raisonnée means partial and adapted used of products, sometimes chemicals, depending on the needs in the vineyards to treat bacteria and diseases.   

• Biodynamic means enhancement of the soil and the overall health of the vines and their immediate surroundings and environment, by applying specific actions on certain days and periods of the year determined by a calendar, combining ancient traditions and "savoir-faire" with scientific methodology that encompasses the importance of the position of the stars, the moon and its effects like the tides, etc. Some of these actions consist in ploughing the soil, planting certain types of plants and flowers that will attract natural predators like insects and birds to recreate a favorable and natural environment within the rows of vines, thus naturally enhancing and reenforcing the complexity of the soil and the diversity of the fauna and flora. It is basically Organic method meets science and old knowledge, gathered in the early 1900s by some doctors and professors who were considered esoteric at the time, but became gurus and pioneers for all these so-called "avant-gardist" producers and winemakers, "nouveau vignerons" of the 21th century. We are basically retrograding, despite the help of newer technologies, to earlier times when Natural methods were simply part of the everyday routine and the result of centuries of "savoir-faire", skills and experiences passed-on from one generation to the next.   

As I was saying earlier, we didn't invent anything! We are just rediscovering what we've forgotten and ignored for more than 60 years, what used to be normal and everyday staff, before we spoiled the soil with chemicals and non natural fertilizers between the late 40s and the early 90s. Roughly about 50 years spent polluting and destroying the natural elements of the soil. 

At this time, just after the baby boom, productivity and cost efficient methods were more favorable than more labor intensive and somewhat costlier Natural methods, due to increasing demand from a world population that doubled in one generation of 30 years, 2 billions in 1920s to 4.5 billions in the mid 60s. 

Tractors and other machines replaced man's work. In between the rows, the soil was usually flat and not necessarily aerated or ploughed, no plants, no weeds, no flowers. The vines looked blue because of copper sulfate and other treatments, and the rare grass boasted a sick yellow color resulting of herbicides and pesticides use. In Europe, during the 50s til early 80s, most vines suffocated and over-produced. The wines were not that great, they often needed a little boost with riper grapes and juices from some of the southern other regions (and countries), especially during bad years. (but I will stop there because such a subject necessitates an entire post on its own). 

However and fortunately, things have changed and for the better since the early 90s. The world has listen to reason due to the gravity and the importance of the problems generated by such bad behavior and lack of understanding regarding the consequences toward our planet and all agricultural products. 

A tiny amount of people, too few still, but this is the beginning, are more adequately using Natural methods of culture and vinification, and are looking back in the past with better technology to provide a better future and aware the new generations. We have to preserve our earth by coming back to adequate and more natural ancient methods readopted with today's technologies and scientific progress. 

And when you think about it, we do not have to go back so far. Until not long ago, my grandfather on my mother-side, the farmer-winemaker, was spending most his time outside, 365 days a year, from dawn til dusk. He didn't need a book on Organic or Biodynamic farming, he was doing it naturally because for him, it has always been done that way. That was what he knew. 

In his vineyards, orchards and vegetable garden surrounding his house, he knew when to plant and when to harvest, how to read and follow the signs of nature, the rain, the sun, the birds, the insects, the animals, the water level in the well and in the soil, etc... It was instinctive and in perfect relation and understanding with Nature. He was growing pretty much everything in his garden from vegetable, to fruit, to plants, herbs and trees; and he had all sort of animals: rabbit, hen, birds, cats, dog, fish. He was recycling way before the word "recycling" existed, it was natural and part of his everyday life, even when he was working. 

He knew, simply by taking the time to pay attention to his surrounding and the environment, being aware, listen, see, think, learn, comprehend, understand, deduct, analyze and preserve...  all these things that we have forgotten and that we shouldn't have. Fortunately, some of us, even if only a few, didn't forget and still apply these Natural methods in their everyday life. It is good to see that once again, grass, plants and flowers grow back in between the rows, and that insects and other animals once more swarm the soil of the vineyards.   

The green movement is still young, but we are getting there, cars using only electricity and compressed natural gas, with fewer emissions, already exist and are taking a toll on the oil. Natural energy sources like wind, water and sun are now more in use than ever before (and Germany is showing great example by shutting down all its Nuclear plants, did you ever think about all these nuclear waste that have been buried?). And there are so many other things to talk about in the air, underground and in the rivers, oceans and the seas.

We need a change. We need to go back to more Natural process and methods in everything we do, plant, create, build and invent, with the consequences for environment, in mind, in the short and the long term. Let's evolve the right way, let's take example on those who are already doing it and let's follow this example. La Grange Tiphaine is definitely a great example to follow.

 
 

Domaine La Grange Tiphaine Loire Valley

La Grange Tiphaine was created at the end of the 19th century by Alfonse Delecheneau, followed by three generations: Adrien, Jackie and now Damien. 

Coralie, Damien’s wife, has now joined the family as a fully active partner in the life and work of the vineyard. Coralie and Damien Delecheneau work their 10 hectares with a horse, which is more natural for the soil and allows for natural fertilizer. 

Damien’s talent as a winemaker is evidenced by the multitude of beautifully balanced, elegant, precise red, white, rosé and sparkling wines that he crafts from five different varietals: Chenin blanc, Côt (Malbec), Gamay, Cabernet Franc, and even the ancient and rare Loire variety called Grolleau. The wines are in the AOCs of Touraine Amboise and Montlouis sur Loire. 

All certified Organic, the wines are all different: tender or round, fine or fruit filled, dry or sweet, but they all share the common thread of careful work in the vines that make for beautifully balanced, terroir driven, precise wines.

2009 Domaine La Grange Tiphaine "Clef de Sol" Red Amboise Touraine Loire Valley France

Suggested retail price $17-$20

Imported / distributed by Jenny & François Selections in NYC

This wine is a blend of 65% Cabernet Franc and 35% Côt (better known as Malbec in the Southwest of France and Argentina), from vineyards within the Montlouis Red Appellation, with vines averaging 60 years old, planted on clay and silica resting on limestone soil. In terms of vinification, this wine was fermented in concrete tanks, then aged in 225 L and 400 L used oak barrels without racking and only one light filtration before bottling to preserve the maximal quality of the aromas and flavors.

Now, that is a great wine! It presents a dark ruby color. The nose is earthy and smoky with intense ripe dark berry and blackberry aromas, with earthy, slightly mineral hints. The palate is ripe, ample, generous, rich and coating, yet it possesses great focus and length with superbly enhancing acidity and integrated tannic structure, making it opulent yet balanced, soft, very well rounded and extremely enjoyable, with the right dose of crispiness and earthiness to keep it vibrant and remind you that it is an organic, Terroir oriented wine. The finish is complex and long and definitely calls for another glass. I love this wine. Drink it slightly chilled or room temperature, on his own or with food, no matter what you have to try this wine.

This wine is one of the few quintessential examples and representations of what I love in wine and a very good answer to the question, why I have been doing this job of wine buyer for the past nearly 20 years.

Enjoy, 

LeDom du Vin

For more info about this winery go their website at www.lagrangetiphaine.com or the importer website, which by the way specialized in Organic and Biodynamic small artisanal producers, at www.jennyandfrancois.com

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

Short memories of Chile & Argentina and 2007 Luigi Bosca – Familia Arizu – Reserva Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Mendoza Argentina

Short memories of Chile & Argentina

Between the 20th of February and the 11th of March 2000, one of my best friends and I went on a trip to South-America; traveling to Chile and Argentina to visit both countries, experience both cultures and have a taste of their respective wines and food traditions. A magnificent journey of 20 days, backpacking, trekking and winery hopping to discover a fascinating world where mother Nature still prevail and human being can only be admirative and barely influence it.

We landed in Santiago, the capital of Chile, where we shortly stayed before beginning our expedition to the majestuous massif of "Torres del Paine". We took a plane from Santiago to Punta Arenas, where we ended up massively drunk and didn’t see much of the town, despite our good intentions to do so. It was without counting on our encounter with a funny French Canadian that we met in the first food joint that we could find. We started with beers to push the food down, but were taking off guard when he unveiled a magnum of Jack Daniels from his backpack. Franck and I are huge fan of J-D and the "Tavernier" let us drink it as long as we continued to order more beers.

Therefore, it happened to be early morning the next day, much sooner than we thought. And, running like wild animal in the maze of this little port-town, we nearly missed our minivan-bus which was about to drive us and a few other locals to Puerto Natales... where, in turn, we took a boat for a few hours, during which we couldn‘t stop contemplating the beauty of the surrounding mountainous landscape and the immense shattered glaciers breaking up huge blocks of ice into the Chilean fjords, drinking the local “Pisco” by the shots at the rear of the boat with the captain barely paying attention.

Fortunately, we were the only two persons on the boat, despite the captain and his mate (in the literal sense of the term of course, but also in the metaphorical sense too, because "Mate" also is a traditional South American infused drink, particularly in Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay, southern states of Brazil and south of Chile. But after the previous night and the Jack Daniels ambush in which we felt lamentably, "Pisco" seemed somewhat more appropriated than "Mate", while not necessary it felt like a proper continuation of our nocturnal impromptu celebration.

Once arrived in front of the magnificent, yet somewhat scary massif, proudly pointing its peaks like sharpened teeth towards the sky, we knew that we had only one choice: to trek as much as we could, about 8 to 10 hours a day, for the next 6-7 days, to complete the entire tour of the beast. It was amazing! We walked hours without seeing a soul, only surrounded by the mountain and its grandiose presence. It was even lonely and creepy at time, but majestic. We were sleeping in tent or in some of the refuges scattered along the way at night, sometimes washing ourselves in the river and drying our cloths by the bonfire some nights; and cooking our frugal meals in the flames, often climbing high into the deep marine blue sky alight by the incredible visible amount of stars.

It was really amazing and frightening at the same time, tiring and revealing too; yet what a tremendous personal achievement for the both of us. Full of unforgettable moments, momentum and memories of a place where Nature seems untouched and humans appear rather insignificant and powerless. I felt in love with this part of the world and both of us were somehow happy to go back to civilization, but also sad to leave such a magical and touching place.

We came back to Santiago and its surrounding to visit the city itself, where we were staying in a backpacker’s motel, but more especially some the wineries in Casablanca Valley, San Antonio Valley, Cachapoal Valley, Maipo Valley, Curico and Maule Valley. Some of the wines that we tasted and some of the appointments were organized by the importers and distributors that I used to work with when I was a Sommelier/Wine Buyer in London at the time. Amongst others, our first visit was Cousino Macul and since then it became sentimental between the wines from this particular winery and me.

At the time, their prestige cuvee, “Finis Terrae”, was one of the most expensive wines on the wine lists of the few restaurants, brasseries and grills that we tried during our stay. Therefore, we often decided to indulge ourselves with the most expensive and succulent piece of “bistec” (steak) served with "patatas fritas" and complemented it, of course, with a bottle of 1996 Finis Terrae, which was about 4,500 – 5,000 Chilean Pesos at the time, so let’s say 10,000 Chilean pesos of now, which is about $20...

After a few days spent in Chile, we decided to cross the Andes to go on the other side of the Chilean boundary, in the neighboring country called Argentina, to explore the myths and legends of the Malbec revolution in the wineries surrounding the town of Mendoza. It took us quite a few hours (at least 6 hours minimum by mountainous, treacherous roads between the two cities) to arrive at the top of the mountain where the customs’ baraquement of Las Cuevas didn’t offer much of a refuge against the freezing temperatures awaiting us at this altitude. It was warm and comfy in Santiago, but that wasn’t the case atop the Andes.

Of course, we only had a tee-shirt and a thin sweater on our skin, the rest was in our backpack; and the local police asked us to line-up against the wall like prisoner or more like condemned, in order to, at their pace and at 2 o’clock in the morning, verify our passport and our legality before we enter the Argentinean territory. After awhile, taking their time to search all of our backpacks, (imagine the time to check an entire bus full of tourists and locals), they let us through, while I smoked about a packet of cigarette, freezing to death for the last few hours (yeah, I used to smoke, I know, I know….).

Mendoza was rather small compared to what I was trying to picture looking at the travel brochures and guides. The center of the town was obviously the main interest, a huge square surrounded by low rise building, with restaurants and boutiques. We didn't spend much time there. We rented a car and went on the winery road towards the southwest at the foothills of the Andes. In 3-4 days, we visited quite a few of the most well-known wineries at the time, including Bodega Norton which was probably the most memorable (at the time) and many others.

What really stroked me the most, despite the beauty of the landscape and the "paysages", was the enormous size of the cement/concrete vats that we discovered in some wineries. Although not in use anymore, one of them was the size of a large 3 or 4 bedrooms apartment, a huge circular concrete vat maintain by multiple pillars that could contain thousands of hectoliters. We were about 20 tourists regrouped inside with the guide and there was still room a lot more people. Unfortunately, I do not remeber the name of the winery, but it was colossal. The winery itself without counting the surrounding vineyards, extended on 10 hectares above and underground. It was huge. I have seen many wineries in my lifetime, but never one that monstrous. (I will try to find the name soon).

One of the most funny moment that we had in Argentina was on the road to the no-man's land: La Pampa. If you drive south of Mendoza from Lujan de Cuyo to San Rafael, (I don't remember if it was in the village of Lujan de Cuyo itself, or in one of the next two tiny villages of Agrelo or Ugarteche); however, at the southern end of one of those "bourgs", you explicitly get a sense of getting close to the no-man's land, in other term "La Pampa", because at the exit of a tiny gas station, a huge billboard acknowledges you that you should fill up the tank of your vehicle, because you won't able to do it for the next 175 kilometers.

We then lost ourselves our the Route 40 and Route 143 for a few hours of pure desolation, rocks and cactus, not a soul and no houses or villages for kilometers. Only the mountains in the far to draw the limit of the horizon and in front of you an endless straight road to nowhere. However, about in the middle, we managed to see one hitchhiker walking alone on the side of the road, in the dirt and the rocks, trying to get a ride. We hesitated but didn't stop... shame on us, I know. But what would you have done? He was alone, in a lunar landscape, walking from nowhere to go God knows where, and may be he just had been abducted.... who knows? It was a bit creepy....

Anyhow, I would love to continue to detail our adventure, but it will be rather too long for this post. However, here again, just writing about this trip in Chile and Argentina brings back a lot of memories and unforgettable moments, that I wish I could have the time to share with you. As a result of visiting Mendoza and its surrounding wineries, I once again felt in Love, this time with Argentina, the breathtaking beauty of its picturesque panoramas, and obviously its steak and its wines.

That is why, in memory of that trip, I would like to share with you one of these Malbec wines from one of the Argentinean wineries that I like the most and that I have been selling for quite some time now.

Bodega Luigi Bosca – Familia Arizu – Lujan de Cuyo Mendoza Argentina

Bodegas Luigi Bosca – Familia Arizu – is a story of a legacy and an expertise gained over many years; the story of a name, of a family and their winery; of men who succeeded in conquering virgin soil and in gathering its best fruit.

It is the story of a profound understanding of wine and of the constant evolution of all its process. The first Arizu was Leoncio, who at the end of the 19th century, left his homeland of Navarra (Spain), to come to the Andes, where he was greeted by a young but promising business: vine grower. The first years went by, and the native vines gave way to the ones brought from Europe which, slowly, grew older and stronger until they became unique and completely adapted to this new Argentinean ground. Four generations have passed since the time of those early viticulturists and their revolutionary concept of winemaking.

From the time the Bodega started to make a name for itself on the international market in the late 1990s up until now, Luigi Bosca winery has always remain consistent in quality and avant-gardist in attitude and profile; mixing the savoir-faire and traditional ways of the old generations with the newest techniques to produce structured and textured gems, resulting from generations of experienced winemakers who are always striving for excellence.

Somewhat modern and fruit forward, these attractive and expressive wines do not lack of character or Terroir expressions. On the contrary, over the last decade, they have been recognized as some of the best and most consistent amongst all the Argentinean wines exported in the major wine market like New York and London. They pretty much stand out all around the world in Wine & Spirits boutiques and regarded restaurants.


The winery produces three distinct lines:

• "Finca La Linda": a line expressing flavor, varietal character and fruit in approachable, wallet friendly and versatile wines, in a wide range of varietals: unoaked chardonnay, viognier, Torrontes, Malbec rose, Bonarda, Syrah, Tempranillo, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and even Extra Brut sparkling.

• "Selectos de Familia Arizu": a line demonstrating the quintessence of Luigi Bosca wines: modernity, innovation, passion and pure Terroir character. It encompasses three different labels: “Gala Collection” (Galla 1, 2 & 3) 3 delightful wines superbly crafted; Boheme Methodo Traditional, their fancy sparkling wine which can easily rival some of the most well-known French Champagnes in the $30-$35 price range. And, in my opinion, their best wine called “Luigi Bosca Malbec Single Vineyard D.O.C”; the only wine in Argentina that can claim to come from a single vineyard recognized as a “Denominación de Origen Controlada” due to its unique Terroir characteristics.

• The third line is “Luigi Bosca Reserva” which represents the quality, prestige and identity of the wines, the winery and the devoted passion of the men and women behind it. This line also comes in large range of varietal: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Extra brut sparkling and of course the irreplaceable pride of Argentina: Malbec.

2007 Luigi Bosca Reserva Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Mendoza Argentina
Suggested retail price $16-$19
Imported/distributed by Testa Wines of the World Ltd. In NYC

This wine was crafted with carefully selected and sorted 100% Malbec grapes from low yielding vines planted at Vistalba vineyard in Lujan de Cuyo, an area south-southwest of the city of Mendoza, with an altitude of 960 meters, in the foothills of the Andes. The climate is dry with very cold winters, temperate springs and fresh summers. The clouds from the Pacific Ocean rarely pass above the Andes and usually remain on the Chilean side, transforming the mountain in natural barrier against the rain; yet because of the high elevation, there are big thermal temperature changes between night and day. Average summer temperature: 22º C and average winter temperature: 6º C. Minimum winter temperature: -6º C. Average annual rainfall: 197 mm.

The shallow soil is mainly composed of alluvial, clay and abundant limestone resting on subsoil of stone and pebbles, which generate good drainage. Mainly planted on a plateau, the inclination of the vineyard is only about 1.5% west-east and 1% south-north.

2007 was a great vintage in Argentina and so far I can say that most of the Argentinean wines that I tasted from this particular vintage were mostly very good to excellent. We recently received the 2007 Luigi Bosca Reserve and Single Vineyard D.O.C and both really exceeded my expectation for being focus, rich, complex and long. Although I prefer the Single Vineyard D.O.C, I still found it too young and not tamed enough, it will definitely last for quite some time. It has great potential.

Aged for 12 months in French oak casks and only lightly filtered before bottling which enable to keep the maximum of natural and essential components and confer it more ageing potential, 2007 Luigi Bosca Reserva Malbec Lujan de Cuyo was more open and approachable now after about half an hour in a decanter. It presented a fairly intense, bright yet dark ruby color with purple reflects on the rim, sign of youth. The nose offered expressive classic Malbec aromas of dark fruit, earth, spices, coffee, ripe plum, violets and purple flowers, with hints of mineral and subdued oak notes. The medium-to-full palate was focused, balanced, well rounded and fairly soft yet rich, complex and earthy, with enhancing acidity and integrated tannins. The lingering finish is quite juicy and structured, making this textured wine a pleasurable drink to pair with earthy, substantial dishes like stewed, roasted or grilled red meat, venison, game and hard cheese.

A true classic, elegant and gutsy Malbec that brought multiple memories of my trip to Argentina back in my memory. Cheers to my oldest friend Franck! without whom this trip will have never happened in the first place, if it wasn’t for his determination and methodical organization.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from the winery website at www.luigibosca.com.ar and from the importer website at www.testawines.info

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

2007 Tour des Gendres Rouge "Le Classique" de Tour des Gendres Bergerac Southwest France

This morning, my son and I decided to make Pizza for the lunch. What a mess! We first tried to knead the dough, the best we could with our hands. Things would have been better if we had had a rolling pin. Once the dough was slightly unevenly covering the bottom of the rectangular pizza pan, (but hey that was our first pizza together, so it doesn't matter), my son tried to spread out the tomato base sauce. He surely ate more than putting it on the dough.

While the oven was starting to reach the right temperature, we put a few tears of olive oil on the sauce, and spayed out a first layer of grated Italian cheeses, then added a thick layer of grated Mozzarella. Here again, my son, for each handful of grated cheese put on the Pizza, another handful was disappearing in his month. We then covered the layers of cheeses with as much pepperonis and mushrooms as we could, leaving a small line only with cheese just in case. Then another layer of grated Mozzarella and other cheeses with a last sprinkle of olive oil. Once satisfied by the way it looked, we put it in the oven and waited until ready to add a little touch of white truffle oil atop to add more flavors, just before serving.




Although making it is quite fun, especially with my 4 years old messing around with everything, the waiting part is the part that I prefer, because that is usually when I open my wine fridge to choose a bottle of wine. I didn't know what to try, but a bottle of red Bergerac was taunting me.

Nestled in Dordogne, touching the eastern part of the Gironde department and often assimilated with Bordeaux, Bergerac is a misunderstood place. Quite well known from the Britts who refurbished and repopulated the area over the last 30 years, it is a place of peace and quiet, a lost treasure grove of history, stories and legends. Some counts the adventures of the first hunters, covering the wall of underground prehistoric cave (like Lascaux), and other make knights and dark creatures reappearing in the multiple scattered hilltop medieval villages and Châteaux surrounded by impenetrable forests where time seems to have stop and remain still since the 12th century.

Therefore, in my quest of always trying to introduce you to lesser known wines, regions and producers, I think that a Bergerac wine is very "à propos"!

Moreover, the Bergerac that I'm about to describe today is somewhat sentimental because it is the first Bergerac that I ever tasted when I was younger (around about 14 years old, not very American I know, it is the French side of me) and then, that I first visited in my early twenties, in 1997. It was also one of my first Bergerac wines that I sold to my customers when I was starting my career as young waiter-Sommelier in a Relais & Chateaux restaurant in Péssac, in the outskirt of Bordeaux. This close to my heart Bergerac winery has managed to keep up with the high quality of their wines and even after all these years remains one of my favorite top Bergerac producers.

Château Tour des Gendres Bergerac

Owned and run for the past 3 generations by the "De Conti" family, Château "Tour des Gendres" is the flagship of the Bergerac appellation.

Known since the 12th century as the winery of "Château de Bridoire", Château “Tour des Gendres” (literally “Tower of the sons in law” in English) is located on the site of an old Gallo-Roman villa. Referenced in the “Féret” of 1903, the Domaine gets its name from its then owner, Mr. de Peyronny, who was none other than the son in law of the Marquis de Foucault Lardimalie, lord of Bridoire. Destroyed by phylloxera in the early 19th century, the vineyard now covers only one-tenth of its original surface.

Originally from Italy, Vincenzo de Conti and his wife and children settled in the Southwest of France in 1925. In 1956, Primo de Conti, his son takes over the family farm with Michelle, his wife, who is raising a few horses. In the early 80's, belonging to the third generation, Jean de Conti, guided by his passion for the land and Luc de Conti, guided by his passion for horses, finally settled in Ribagnac (home of "Tour des Gendres"), a little village of Dordogne located about 12 kilometers south of Bergerac. For several years, with their wives, Carol and Martine, they carry out their projects separately.

In 1986, the “de Conti” brothers find themselves in a common project. They combined their properties, associated their families and created the “SCEA de Conti”, a company regrouping the family farm, lands and vineyards. After both families took over the vineyard and the farm lands, they restructured and improved them. Then tasks were divided and remain the same til today: Jean takes care of the farm grain and Luc of winemaking and wine marketing; Carol supports the accounting and Martine, the reception at the Domaine for guests and customers. Francis, the cousin, joined the operation in 1990, adding his 20 hectares of vineyards of “St. Julien d’Eymet” to the vineyards of “Domaine des Gendres” and of “Grand Caillou”. He took over the culture of the vine within the 3 Domaines now encompassing 52 hectares of vineyards.

Chronologically, here is what happen since Jean and Luc decided to regroup the Domaines:

• 1984 - early work of replanting the vineyards, first on two hectares to experiment
  

• 1986 - first wine, Chateau Tour de Gendres, the classical Bergerac red was born

• 1987 - first white wine, the Cuvée des Conti, the addition of a new classical white

• 1988 – Beginning of ageing the white on its lees to add extra dimension and depth
  

• 1989 - first bottling of “La Gloire de Mon Père”
  

• 1994 - First vintage of “Moulin des Dames” Rouge, a very upscale Bergerac,
  

• 1994 - first tests of organic viticulture at the “Domaine des Gendres”
  

• 2005 – Organic Farming established and practiced on the property’s 52 hectares
  

• 2005 – first 100% Muscadelle à petits grains Since the beginning of the conversion to organic farming in 1994, de Conti family has been witnessing significant Nature changes in the vineyards and their immediate surroundings.
  

The physico-chemical equilibrium of the earth, the exploitation of all layers of the soils and sub-soils, and the strength of the vines have naturally altered the taste of the wines: the alcohol level has lowered, the natural acidity has increased, the mineral character of the soil is more assertive on the red and white wines, tannins are riper and soft and the flavors are typical of their plot of origin. The persistence of these features perfect the style of the wines, these are qualities appreciated by wine lovers and easily recognizable during tasting.

Nature’s advocate and being raised as the grandson of a winemaker in a natural agricultural environment for the first 24 years of my life, I have always been very supportive of Organic, Biodynamic and other natural vinification processes and techniques. Many times, I wrote my views and opinions about them in some other posts.

However, writing about Domaine “Tour des Gendres” is particularly enjoyable for me, because I adhere totally to the philosophy and natural agricultural approach of the "de Conti" Family. And to confirm what myself and many more have said about Natural ways, here is once again facts about why everybody should be more aware and respectful of the Nature, with the words of Luc de Conti:

“By practicing organic farming, we raised a few secrets about the natural mechanisms, we realized that we were part of a whole, one and indivisible. Every day we see its benefits on our vineyards, our wines and our environment.” - Luc de Conti

Here are some of his own personal advices and keys (with a few of mine intermingled with them), which I respect tremendously and actively incite people to follow, regarding the complex mechanisms of organic (Biologique in French) farming and agriculture:

• The herbicides destroy life in the soil; but constant periodic tillage under each vine aerates and purifies the earth.
  

• Chemical fertilizers trivialize the soil; but natural compost promotes the natural life of the sub-soil and reveals the character of the Terroir.
  

• Chemical treatments weaken the vine; but treatments using natural products strengthen it against diseases.
  

• Planting "buddies" or “partners” seeds of other plants, encourages biodiversity and reveals the character of soil (and Terroir)
  

• Planting plants with deep root penetration - as the oats & phacelia - promotes aeration and the life of sub-soils.
  

• Deeply rooted, the vines can easily manage and benefit of the cool and moisture of the sub-soil and mineralization of the bedrock, which is indispensable especially with the rise of temperatures, more signs of global warming and climatic changes with sudden heat waves across Europe, like in 2003 and 2005.
  

• Promoting biodiversity in the sub-soils acts on biodiversity at the soil surface and reveals the character of the Terroir: insects, earthworms, rodents and birds live in the vineyard; they graze, touch and land on the berries and deposit Natural yeasts, the true signature of the Terroir, which irrefutably will reflect in the produced wines.
  

Their website is in French and I translated some of the above texts adding my personal touch on some of them, however Tour des Gendres produces 5 different labels coming in white and red (and rosés) and 1 sweet wine:

• Château Tour des Gendres Classique (blanc, rouge, rosé)
  
• La Gloire de mon Père (blanc, rouge)
  
• Moulin des Dames (blanc, rouge)
  
• Anthologia (blanc, rouge)
  
• Cuvée des Conti (blanc, rouge)
  
• Conti-ne Périgourdine (sweet white)
  

Therefore, I invite you to go visit their website for more info on the different cuvées at www.chateautourdesgendres.com



2007 Tour des Gendres “Le Classique” rouge Bergerac France
Suggested retail price $11-$14
Imported / distributed by Baron François in NYC

Tour des Gendres “Le Classique” Bergerac Rouge wine is a benchmark for Bergerac appellation. A well-structured, enjoyable and versatile red to enjoy at any occasion, preferably with local food from the Perigord. It represents the outstanding result of the work of talented winegrowers and an exceptional winemaker: Luc de Conti, often referred as “the Prince of Bergerac”. Considered as one of the best winemakers in France, Luc, his brother Jean and his cousin Francis, as well as their respective families, run this innovative Bergerac estate with upmost respect for the terroir and to the balance of the ecosystem.

2007 Tour des Gendres “Le Classique” Bergerac Rouge is a blend of 70% Malbec and 30% Merlot from south exposed vines planted on clayish soils resting on calcareous-limestone bedrock. After full destemming, the grapes were pressed then underwent a long fermentation of about 30 days immediately followed by the malolactic fermentation, both in stainless steel tanks and Bordeaux size oak barrels. The ageing process also occurred in both stainless steel tanks and oak barrels, with the wine resting on its lees to add richness, roundness, complexity and depth. It was finally bottled without fining or filtration to maximize and emphasize its lush, earthy, Terroir oriented profile.

2007 Tour des Gendres “Le Classique” Bergerac Rouge offers a dark ruby color; quite intense and opaque with just few, light ruby reflects near the rim. The nose is clean, somewhat delicate and discreet, yet definitely refine with aromas of ripe dark berries and dark fruit, light touch of eucalyptus, mint, spice, mineral, earth and smoke intermingled with profound and well integrated dark bitter chocolate and toasted oak nuances. The focus and dark palate is lush, rich and soft with well-balanced ripe dark juicy fruit flavors framed by a solid and present yet extremely well integrated, earthy tannic structure and enhancing acidity. The generous mid-palate is expanding with the same yet more expressive notes as in the nose. The textured finish is lingering and call for another glass.

This gorgeous Bergerac wine is as dark and appetizing as the black truffles (Tuber melanosporum), which grow exclusively within the oak roots and abound in the forest of the Périgord, enhancing further the already rich and flavorful local traditional food often prepared with Duck, Goose, Game, Venison, Wild Boar and Rabbit.

FYI: Périgord, which by the way gave its name to the eponymous truffles, is a former province of France, which corresponds roughly to the current Dordogne département (county), now forming the northern part of the Aquitaine region, in the southwest of France.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from the winery website at www.chateautourdesgendres.com and from the importer website at www.baronfrancois.com

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Argentina and 2008 Conquista Malbec San Rafael Mendoza Argentina

Few short memories of Argentina

Writing about this little Argentinean wine remind me of a memorable trip in South America.

In 2001, my best friends and I went trekking in the South of Chile in the massif of “Torres del Paine” for a few days. We flew to Santiago, stayed a few days to visit Chile’s Capital then took a flight to the south to arrive at the bottom of the world in the village of Punta Arenas. Just arrived we had to take a bus the next day early in the morning to go to Puerto Natales and catch our boat to the Massif.

Despite its Captain and a "matelot" (or sailor if you prefer), the Pudeto Catamaran was empty of other tourists, so our boat-hosts offered us the local warming and comforting mixture as a reward for our genuine sympathy toward them. During this journey of a few hours before arriving to the massif, we end up drinking many shots of Pisco, mesmerized by the beauty of the surrounding mountains and enormous glaciers, and their reflections in the freezing water of the Lago Pehoe. Walking about 8-10 hours a day with heavy back packs, we trekked for 4-5 days in one of the most amazing trekking circuit of the world in this Park that was created in 1959 and was announced as a biosphere reserve by UNESCO in 1978.

Over there, Nature still predominates and humans are like small and insignificant compared to the grandeur and the beauty of the landscape. I like Nature and try to respect it as much as I can and I guess growing up in a wine-producing region like Bordeaux, more precisely in the country side of Bourg-sur-Gironde (about 45 kilometers on the right-bank, north of Bordeaux) with a grandfather winemaker that grow everything in his own farm's garden, I have always been very close and respectful to the environment. However, Patagonia, the Andes and Torres del Paine reminded me how important and vital it is to pay attention and preserve our environment, and Nature in general with all the beings including plants, trees, animals, culture, traditions, art, etc. This trip was in 2001, but I feel that it is even more important, should I say crucial, nowadays.

Back in Santiago and after a few days visiting wineries in Maipo and along the road of Valparaiso (which is by the way an amazing city built on slopes literally falling in the Pacific ocean and renowned for its fish dishes), we decided to take the bus to cross the Andes and pay a visit to Argentina, more especially Mendoza, on the other side of the Mountain chains. What a mess when we were stopped at custom for more than 3 hours at 2.00am. Middle of the night, at the top of the mountain somewhere at nearly equal distance between Santiago and Mendoza, freezing and lining up against a wall waiting in the cold for them to verify all the passport of all the tourists the bus contained. That too was memorable!

We arrived by early morning on the other side of the Andes. Mendoza is like a little village with no high buildings. The center of the town is a huge pedestrian square (or rectangular I should say) area surrounded by small cantinas, bodegas and restaurants were you can eat some of the best steak(s) around cooked with the succulent and, in my opinion, totally underrated Argentinean mountain salt.

South west of Mendoza and Lujan de Cuyo, one can see quite a few wineries around Mendoza, but if you are a bit adventurous, drive south to San Rafael where you will find many more of the new comers. It was fun to do, almost like in a movie. At the end of the village of Lujan de Cuyo, there is a huge billboard that says something like: “Make sure to fill up your tank, ‘cause there is no gas station for the next 150 kilometers!”

There are about 210 kilometers between Lujan de Cuyo and San Rafael, and in between, like in most of the rest of the country in the south, you are in the middle of “La Pampa”, a real “no man’s land” of scorched earth, dust and stones and a few cactus…and not a soul for miles around on a very, very long straight road with the picks of the mountains in the far background on your right. Almost like if you were driving on a Monument Valley road between Arizona and Utah. However, if you make the journey, San Rafael and its wineries is quite worth the visit. Sorry I get carried away with my souvenirs, once again, so let’s back to our little wine of the day.

Argentina, and specifically its Mendoza region has become Malbec country. Mendoza is a narrow strip lining the foothills of the Andes from Cafayate Valley north to Patagonia south. The near-desert conditions are remedied by water from the snow-capped Andes that also guard the area from radical temperature shifts that would otherwise hurt the harvest, and instead account for better fruit flavor and maturation in the clean, pollution-free mountain air.

Resting on the San Andreas, Mendoza experiences near weekly small earthquakes that shift layers of sand, clay, and loam with gravel and limestone, providing Mendoza’s Malbec vines with superb root nutrients and variety.

Early Spanish conquistas settled Argentina in the 16th century. They considered this new land’s hot, arid climate ideally suited to wine cultivation. It wasn’t until the late 18th century when the Governor of Cuyo in Mendoza, an area 625 miles west of Buenos Aires, requested Malbec, a classic French grape that was struggling in the cooler climate of Bordeaux, France, be brought to Argentina for wine cultivation.

Argentina’s Spanish heritage and the Spaniards that, by virtue of their South American conquests, sparked what is today a spectacular heritage of Argentinean wine cultivation, with Malbec as the varietal king, inspired “Conquista”.



2008 Conquista Malbec San Rafael Mendoza Argentina
Suggested retail price $8-$11
Imported by Prestige Wine group

The 2008 Conquista is a blend of 88% Malbec mixed 6% Bonardo which offers soft, juicy fruit flavors; 3% Shiraz that adds richness and spice; and 3% Merlot for additional softness and fruit complexity. The grapes are hand harvested at optimum ripeness from the foothills of the Andes Mountains in the San Rafael region of Mendoza.

Conquista is a gentle, fruity Malbec showing layers of blackberries and blueberries, hints of mocha and spice aromas. The palate is fairly rich, medium -full bodied with good balance and enhancing acidity. The earthy and integrated structure of the tannins in the finish adds texture and dimension to this tremendous value wine. Pair it with rich and hearty foods, roasted meats and vegetables, grilled foods, stew and mature cheeses.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

For more info on the wine and the importer go to www.prestigewinegroup.com
Some of the above info were partly taken and edited from the importer website


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Earthy reds for Fall's feelings

Earthy reds for Fall's feelings

Fall evokes the changing colors and multiple shades of the leaves in the forest; the mushrooms and truffles hunts; the warmer cloths and the scent of burning logs in the fireplace; lazy Sundays under the blanket reading a book or watching a classic, while the stew is cooking. All of these comfort our hearts and prepare us for the up-and-coming winter season. Fall also calls for earthier food and wines with fuller mouth-feel, richer fruit and more Terroir-oriented savors. Made with atypical and indigenous red grapes from three wine regions aside of the beaten path, the following wines encompass all of the above cited fall’s feelings, sensations and flavors in a bottle.

2007 Kanonkop “Kadette” Stellenbosch South Africa

Suggested retail price $11-$13

Imported / Distributed by Lauber Imports in NYC

Kanonkop is one of the well known wineries of Stellenbosch. Their Bordeaux-like style, blend and structure greatly appeal to most customers and usually please the connoisseurs. The adepts of South African red wines often compare their wines to some of the best Bordeaux yet at a more attractive price.

Kadette is Kanonkop’s second label, yet like the first label it presents very enjoyable fruit, a generous palate and a lovely balance. A blend of approximately 50% Pinotage, South Africa’s pride, blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this wine was matured in Bordeaux size (225 liters - French Nevers forest) barrels for up to 16 months. The resulting wine offers rich, structured and juicy ripe red and dark berry flavors with hints of oak, spices and earth. The lingering finish presents some dry yet very integrated tannins. Pair it with a grilled steak or even venison and game.

2003 Chateau Peyros Madiran Vieilles Vignes Southwest of France

Suggested retail price $15-$18

Imported / Distributed by Baron Francois in NYC

Chateau Peyros is the southernmost property of the Madiran Appellation. It takes its name from a local Gascony word which means "rocky location" or "stony place". Its location combines exceptional Terroir and ideal growing conditions. The main objective of Chateau Peyros is to apply the most natural and adapted wine making methods to their vineyard and cellar to protect the earth and its Biodiversity and to maximize the quality of their wines. Most of their wines are not filtered to avoid imparting taste and flavors, therefore any natural deposits and slight sedimentation in the bottle are a guarantee of the wine's authenticity and truthful, unique expression. A light decantation is suggested to fully appreciate this Tannat based wine.

Typical of the infamously hot 2003 vintage, the full bodied and opulent Chateau Peyros is a blend of 60% Tannat, Madiran’s indigenous grape (which slowly became the national grape of Uruguay), and 40% Cabernet Franc, both from 40-plus year-old vines. Deep purple in the glass, the initial aromas of dark plum, blackberry and cedar unfold to reveal layers of peppermint and coffee. Fully ripe dark fruit and black berry flavors coat the palate along with notes of bitter chocolate and spices, sustained by a generous acidity and firm yet fairly integrated tannins into a long, structured finish. An earthy, slightly rustic red to be enjoyed with hearty fare: think roast beef, lamb and game.

2004 Le Combal Cahors Southwest of France

Suggested retail price $17-$20

Imported / Distributed by Metro Wine in NYC

Although more recognized than Madiran, Cahors remains one of the lesser known small wine regions of the southwest of France (that people do not venture easily to taste). However, Cahors produces great Malbec based wines that were the initial inspiration for what is now the fame and pride of Argentina. Big, concentrated, tannic and earthy, they usually need time and decant to fully deliver their character and personality.

The 2004 Le Combal is very dark and deep purple color. The Bordeaux-like nose is clean, dry, earthy and smoky. The palate is rich, with enjoyable dark wild berry flavors, minerality and forest floor notes intermingled with hints of roasted coffee, mushroom and spice. Firmly textured yet with a great juicy mouth- feel, this wine has a finish that is slightly tannic and a touch rustic, yet it tastes really good. Beside, a piece of semi-hard flavorful cheese or a slice of roasted meat should ease some of the slight angularities. Like the Madiran, this Cahors is an earthy, peasant’s like, wintry drink after a hard a day braving the unfriendly weather and the other complications of the day.

Overall, The Kanonkop Kadette is a friendly, versatile wine to enjoy with or without food. However, both the Madiran and the cahors will warm you up nicely when paired with southwest of France specialties like a "Cassoulet de Castelnaudary" or "Saucisses Lentilles de Toulouse" or "Magret de Canard" from the Landes.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

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2006 Gouleyant Malbec Cahors France (Georges Vigouroux)

2006 Georges Vigouroux "Gouleyant" Malbec Cahors France
Suggested retail price $9-$11
Imported by Baron Francois Ltd. in NYC

"Gouleyant" is first and above all a great french word that means: fresh, agreeable and easy to drink (when you talk about a wine).

But "Gouleyant" within the same spirit as the word itself, is a simple, versatile, earthy, enjoyable, Malbec based wine made from one of the great figures of Cahors: Georges Vigouroux (et fils). Cahors is a small, medieval town located in the southwest of France, squeezed between the southeast of Dordogne and the town of Toulouse.

Although, the Vigouroux family has been in the vine and wine business for nearly 150 years, it was Georges Vigouroux, the third generation of the family, who first planted vines on the hillsides of Cahors in the early 70s and really started to invest into the property. He now passed on his knowledge to his son Bertrand-Gabriel Vigouroux. From a family of vine-growers, winemakers but also Negociants for nearly a century, Georges and Bertrand-Gabriel perpetuate with great enthusiasm their family tradition of crafting wines.

They own a few properties, some around Cahors including Chateau de Mercues and Chateau de Haute-Serre where they produces several Malbec based wines including Gouleyant, Atrium and Pigmentum. One can definitely say that the fame of Cahors has risen over the last 20 years due to the hard work and efforts of the Vigouroux family.

This high quality yet affordable wine comes from vineyards planted on the Cahors hill slopes, planted on limestone-clay soils. Made from 80% Malbec and 20% Merlot, vinified by Bertrand-Gabriel, the wine went through a long maceration to extract a maximum of fruit and color. It was fermented then aged in stainless steel tanks to preserve the freshness and the fruit expression.

The nose is earthy, floral, with black currant and dark cherry fruit flavors mixed with hints of tobacco leaf and smoke. The attack is fairly juicy, with good acidity in the mid-palate followed by a lingering earthy, slightly tannic, finish. Overall, this wine is juicy with ripe fruit, smooth, earthy and food friendly. Pair it with duck, grilled on "Sarments" (aged vine shouts, cut after the harvest before the cold winter season), and served with wild mushroom like "Chanterelle".

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

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www.ledomduvin.com