Showing posts with label Rhone. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Rhone. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 26, 2016

Crescendo in strength... another night of great wines

Crescendo in strength... another night of great wines


Wines of the night - 17.07.2016 | LeDomduVin ©

And here we go again, back into the apartment with the view overlooking at Hong Kong.... Beautiful, isn't it? Except for the weather this time, tainted by the usual and almost permanent grey of the blanket of clouds always hovering above the city. I let you admire the view... but i think that once again the best view of the night was the one on these 6 gems above... the wines of the night were a festival of greatness, climbing the ladder of strength and richness the closer we got to the last bottle.   

Hong Kong from the dinner's apartment - 17.07.2016 | LeDomduVin ©



Hong Kong from the dinner's apartment - 17.07.2016 | LeDomduVin ©

These bottles were served with a traditional Chinese dinner, concocted by the house Chinese Chef. Do not ask me to translate the menu, none of them spoke really fluent English and i hard a hard time trying to understand what they were trying to describe. However, I took a few pictures that speak for themselves.  





Lafite Rothschild 1961 - 17.07.2016 | LeDomduVin ©

Lafite Rothschild 1961
Level was low
Cork quite damp but still solid
Restraint on the nose at opening
Still cherry, earth, spice, with slightly evolved notes after 30 minutes
The palate is light, slightly flat in my opinion compared to previously opened bottles and not as full as I remembered it, but still possessed enough acidity to keep bright. Not bright enough compared to previous bottle.

La Mission Haut-Brion 1982 - 17.07.2016 | LeDomduVin ©

La Mission Haut Brion 1982
Literally a bomb after the Lafite,,so young and powerful. Too young in my opinion.
Beautiful nose, fresh notes, menthol, eucalyptus, smoke, earth, spice, touch peppery.
Beautiful, lush, round, coating in the pallet. Here again, touch spicy peppery, smoky, ripe figs, touch prunny.
Lovely balance and texture in the pallet, lingering until the amazing finish.
Le Pin 2000 - 17.07.2016 | LeDomduVin ©


LePin 2000.... 
How to put it? An amazingly generous and friendly fat baby. Big, round, friendly, coating, full, explosing upfront, yet gradually expanding in every way on its way to the finish. Gaining in strength and fullness. Lots of dark fruit, wood, spice, earth,. What a wine! Yet after such an incredible beginning and mid-palate... I would have love the flavor in the finish to be a little more lingering and the finish itself  longer. Strange, the first things that came to my mind, when i tasted it, were Californien style Merlot and Robert Parker... go figure... but it gave me this impression.


Petrus 1989 - 17.07.2016 | LeDomduVin ©

Petrus 1989
Sous bois,  spice, mushroom, smoky scorched earth, peppery. Very dark fruit. Almost hard. Great acidity in the pallet, lot of spicy, peppery, notes, super dark fruit and more earth. It is paysan wine (in a good way) really impressive and serious attitude. Too serious. Dark and strict. Powerful yet refine.
Beautiful, elegant, refine nose, figs, red and dark berries, some nuts, touch mineral, a smart nose. The palate follow even more beautiful and attractive

Guigal Cote-Rotie La Landonne 1986 - 17.07.2016 | LeDomduVin ©



Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1990 - 17.07.2016 | LeDomduVin ©








Right after double decantation - 17.07.2016 | LeDomduVin ©











Tuesday, November 27, 2012

1990 Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage "La Chapelle" Rhone Valley France




1990 Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage "La Chapelle" Rhone Valley France 

Dark, medium intensity in color, “belle robe” of dark rubis with garnet nuances. At first, the nose was also a bit tight and closed with hints of dry dust, maybe a touch of cork. So I decanted It and after about 20 minutes, it started to really express itself: expressive, fresh and youthful with dark berries, earthy notes and hints of spice and oak. The palate is generous, full, attractive, balanced and rich, conveying a young and vigorous profile, exhibiting dark fruit, soil, spice and present yet well integrated tannins. Great texture and structure overall and a long, rich finish, even it is not the best example I tasted; yet, it still remain a pretty damn good bottle of wine.

Enjoy, 

LeDom du Vin

Friday, June 17, 2011

2007 Cave de Tain Crozes-Hermitage "Les Hauts du Fief" Rhone Valley France


Cave de Tain

Located between Valence and Lyon, Cave de Tain lies at the foot of the Hermitage hillside. At the heart of the historic northern Rhône vineyards, the Cave produces and markets 5 “cru” wines and single varietal "Vins de Pays" from over 1000 hectares of vines located in the 5 major appellations, making it the leading producer of “cru” wines in the northern Rhône Valley.

The estate of "Cave de Tain" was founded in 1933, as a cooperative, by 100 winegrowers from the district of Tain l'Hermitage. Its first president Louis Gambert de Loche was a land owner and a great humanist, from whom the Cave de Tain purchased the Hermitage vineyards.

Today the Cave de Tain has 370 grower-members and a total vineyard area of 1,140 hectares, of which 1,000 hectares are A.O.C. wines.

Cave de Tain produces and sells wines from five appellation contrôlée wines, also known as Cru villages:

  • Crozes Hermitage, 
  • Hermitage, 
  • Saint Joseph, 
  • Cornas, 
  • Saint Péray. 
These wines are made according to long standing Rhône Valley traditions, and faithfully respect each appellation's specific "Terroir".

The volume of these five wines vinified by the Cave de Tain represents almost half of the total volume of all northern Rhône AOC wines produced. The Cave also produces single varietal vins de pays wines from Syrah and Marsanne grapes grown on the outskirts of the appellation areas in the northern Rhône hills.

The wines of the Cave de Tain are recognized for their quality. The objective of the Cave is to provide wine lovers around the world with authentic wines which bear the full character of their individual " Terroir ", bringing out the best through careful and non-intrusive vinification methods.

The winemakers supervise each stage of vinification, from grape reception, classified according to quality, right up to bottling. The cellar team makes every effort to respect the inherent characteristics of each vintage, to ensure a harmonious and natural finished product after vinification.

In this highly traditional vineyard, successive generations have contributed to the growth and development of the winery by producing grapes of a quality they strive to constantly improve.



2007 Cave de Tain Crozes-Hermitage "Les Hauts du Fief" Rhone Valley France
Suggested retail price $23-$25
Imported / distributed by Cognac One - Xavier Flouret in NYC

The Crozes Hermitage appellation is Cave de Tain specialty, since it produces nearly 50% of it. Careful selection of grapes depending on the origin, maturity and quality of grapes. All grapes are destemmed, then macerated in vats for 8-15 days under controlled temperature. The resulting wine is partially aged in oak barrels for 12 months. 30,000 bottles produced.

This cuvée is a blend of the best "terroirs" of the appellation and reveals the different facets of it. The vines are 20 years old at least, yielding about 35 hl / hectare. The soil is a mix of pebbles made of fluvio-glacial alluvium that are stony, warm and filtering, hence creating good drainage. The weather is extremely dry in the summer favoring healthy and early maturing of grapes.

Made from 100% old vines Syrah, this wine presents a deep and dark garnet color. The nose is quite complex and fragrant with ripe blackberry and wild berries aromas, with earthy hints of dark cherries and mocha. The palate offers a generous mouth-feel with similar notes. Well-structured and balanced, the mid-palate and finish are fine grained, with present yet integrated tannins. The finish is long and persistent on cherries, liquorice, mocha and spices notes, and slight herbaceous traces. A bit tight at first, just after opening, it will need 20-30 minutes of aeration, decanting is definitely recommended. The structure and texture suggest very good ageing potential and reflect its youth.This wine has been only lightly filtered and may form a natural deposit. Wait for it a bit, 2-3 years, or decant it and enjoy it over red meats, herb roast poultry, cooked pork and cheeses. A racy and Terroir oriented wine that may not have the elegance and depth of some of the more renown names of this area, yet it is an excellent quality / price ratio at $25.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

Saturday, March 12, 2011

2008 Tierra de Viennae "Heluicum" & "Sotanum" Rhone Les Vins de Vienne (Cuilleron Villard, Gaillard and Villa) Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes

- Tierra de Viennae - Les Vins de Vienne -
- Cuilleron Villard, Gaillard & Villa -

Yves Cuilleron, Pierre Gaillard et François Villard, three of the most notorious wine producers of the northern Rhone Valley had a dream to offer a renaissance to the vineyards of Seyssuel, a small village at top northern part of the Rhone Valley, about 6.5 kilometers northwest of the town of Vienne, and about 13 kilometers north of Ampuis (the capital of "Cote Rotie").

They did it with passion and pleasure, and their dream came true when the adventure started in 1996, by first renting and restructuring some small parcels of land.

Vienne was even "Roman" before the Roman conquest of Gaul by Julius Caesar. It was the capital of one of the provinces of Septimania, which only became French in the thirteenth century. The Roman Viennoise county extended from Lake Geneva to the door of the city of Arles on a wide area. The inhabitants of the city of Vienne enjoyed significant privileges and had access the highest offices of the Empire. They were exempt from paying the tax. When a bridge was built, the city lies on both banks of the Rhone. The poet Martial (1st century) called the city then, "Vienne-la-belle".

The Vienne area wine’s fame dates from the time of the Empire Roman. In his writings, Pline l’Ancien (the Elder) indicates that one planting to black grape called Vitis Allobrogica, grown on the territory of Vienne, and gave three crus: Sotanum, Taburnum and Heluicum, according to the soil and the vineyards.

Remaining very popular until the late nineteenth century, Seyssuel vineyards suffered greatly during the war of religion in the 16th Century, then the vineyards were resurrected and expanded (120 hectares/ 296.5 acres of vines in 1820) until their total destruction by phylloxera in the 1890s.

Only a small part was replanted during the 20th Century due to the difficulty of its hilly terrain, impossible for mechanical cultivation, the vineyards of Seyssuel. The hillside or “Coteaux” were left, abandoned until 1996, despite many tentative of restoring and restructuring prior Cuilleron, Gaillard and Villard.

Yves Cuilleron, Pierre Gaillard et François Villard count amongst the pioneer that emphasized the rebirth of the northern Rhone in the 1980s. Three winemakers, three different approach of winemaking. Les Vin de Vienne succeeded this alchemy: fusion the sensibility of the three in one efficient team spirit. The collective commitment to produce high quality Vin de Vienne comes naturally from the combination of each producer's skill and experience. They literally revived the popularity of the Vins de Vienne.

To complete their adventure, grow their portfolio and add another point of view and winemaking skills, they introduced recently the name of a fourth person on their label, which is quite justified because he is the proprietor of the estate at Seyssuel. The fourth crony, like the 3 musketeers that were four, Pierre-Jean Villa joined them in 2003 and now runs the domain.

They now produce about 30+ wines from various Rhone appellations, divided in 4 categories:
  • Vin de Propriété: Estate wines, from the estate in Seyssuel, which include "Heluicum" and "Sotanum"
  • Les Archeveques: parcels selection in specific vineyards.
  • L'Amphore d'Or: structured wines with good ageing potential
  • L'Amphore d'Argent: easier wines with good fruit expression for everyday

Christian Dalbavie make me taste two of them "Heluicum" and "Sotanum", and I found them both extremely well crafted and like to share them with you.



2008 Tierra de Viennae "Heluicum" Rhone Valley Les Vins de Vienne (Cuilleron Villard, Gaillard and Villa) Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes
Suggested retail price $32-$35
Imported / distributed by Christian Dalbavie via Domaine Select in NYC

The name Heluicum is in reference to Helios, the sun in Greek mythology.

Crafted from 10 years old vines planted on hillsides, 100% Syrah from the Northern Rhone Valley, "Heluicum" is one of the various wines produced by a joint venture from Northern Rhone most notorious Master winemakers: Yves Cuilleron, Pierre Gaillard et François Villard, and Pierre-Jean Villa. The vineyards are under sustainable, organic methods. The soil is predominantly composed of schist stones with quartzite and micaceous shale, which confers great minerality to the wines. Fermentation occurred with natural yeasts, with pigeage and remontage. Then the wine was aged for 16 months in French oak barrels.

A superb wine, 2008 Tierra de Viennae "Heluicum" shows deep ruby-garnet color. The nose expresses lovely, earthy aromas of cassis, black berry, garrigues, violet and pepper. Extremely well crafted, the palate is juicy, a touch spicy, with high acidity and great balance and focus. Flavors of cassis, violet, and garrigues gently evolve and expand with even more earthy, floral and ripe berry fruit notes, toward the long, seamless, earthy, soil oriented, juicy finish. $40 may appear a bit high to spend in this economy, but for a wine of such quality, it is definitely worth it. I love it.

Small quantities, old vines and organic are three factors that account for the price. However, even if I am the king of under $15, and if I usually prefer to ambush wines under $20, sometimes it is good to Indulge a little and fall into a surprising ambuscade like this one.




2008 Tierra de Viennae "Sotanum" Rhone Valley Les Vins de Vienne (Cuilleron Villard, Gaillard and Villa) Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes
Suggested retail price $52-$55
Imported / distributed by Christian Dalbavie via Domaine Select in NYC

The name Sotanum is a reference to the beneficial properties of the brew which used to be produced on these slopes

Crafted from 15 years old vines planted on hillsides, 100% Syrah from the Northern Rhone Valley, "Sotanum" is one of the various wines produced by a joint venture from Northern Rhone most notorious Master winemakers: Yves Cuilleron, Pierre Gaillard et François Villard, and Pierre-Jean Villa. The vineyards are under sustainable, organic methods. The soil is predominantly composed of schist stones with quartzite and micaceous shale, which confers great minerality to the wines. Fermentation occurred with natural yeasts, with pigeage and remontage. Then the wine was aged for 16 months in French oak barrels.

Also excellent yet more expensive, 2008 Tierra de Viennae "Sotanum" presents a medium ruby robe, with bright reflects. When tasted, the nose was somewhat restraint, less expressive and lighter than the previous wine, may be a bit close at the moment; yet, it didn't mean anything because, on the palate, it was boasting more complexity, length and depth. With similar mouthful attitude and flavors profile than Heluicum, it is a better wine, more refined and integrated, showing more inciting features yet with less primary fruit flavors. Somewhat more cerebral, less youthful, vibrant and friendly than Heluicum. Food friendly, this wine needs a good hour of decanting and will pair well with hearty dishes.


Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from the winery website at http://www.vinsdevienne.com/ and from the importer website http://www.domaineselect.com/


Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

2007 Chateau Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape "La Crau" Rhone France


Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape "La Crau"

Part of the Vignobles Brunier, Vieux Telegraphe is undoubtedly one of the most recognizable label of Chateauneuf-du-Pape and one of the most characteristic and Terroir oriented winery of this appellation.


2007 Chateau Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape "La Crau" Rhone Valley France

Suggested retail price $75-$82
Imported/Distributed by Winebow in NYC

The 2007 vintage has been highly acclaimed by the press and most wine critics as one of the best of last decade with 2005. The resulting wine is quite approachable yet it shows fantastic ageing potential and depth. The color is dense ruby purple. The perfumy nose offers layers of aromas going from sea breezes, licorice and ground pepper, to earthy and jammy black cherries, black currants, figs, and plums. The palate is quite full-bodied, rich and generous with lots of sweet, ripe tannin and earthiness. The finish is long and structured. A great wine to cellar for the next 4-6 years and even longer depending on how patient you will be.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

For more info about this wine and the winery go to their website at www.brunier.fr

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic and Organic wine (and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe!

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

2007 Domaine Le Clos des Cazaux Vacqueyras Rhône Valley France


Domaine Le Clos des Cazaux

Domaine Le Clos des Cazaux is located in Vacqueyras, a little village of the southern Rhône Valley South of Vaison-la-Romaine, approximately 30kms of Avignon, 15kms of Orange and 15kms of Carpentras.

Domaine Le Clos des Cazaux belongs to the “Archimbaud-Vache” families, two family that have been implanted in Vacqueyras for centuries. In fact the Vache family has roots in the village since 1791 and the oldest verified ancestor of the Archimbaud family was apparently born in 1635. More over, the “Mas” (traditional name for a farm house or countryside house in the southern Rhône and more especially in Provence) and the tasting cellar are both from this period too.

It seems that originally, the domaine belonged the Templar knights (Chevaliers de l’ordre des Templiers, thus the name of the Cuvée) who were implanted in this region. A farmer was in charge of the cattle and the various cultures. The name of such a farmer was a “Chazal”, which with time was transformed into “Cazaux” (also possibly the plural form of Chazal), actual name of the Domaine.

The first plantations of vines appeared in the middle of the 19th century, but the culture of olive trees remain the principal activity until the terrible frost of 1957, which killed most of the trees. In 1936, Gabriel Archimbaud participated in the creation of the Côte du Rhône Appellation and increased the Domaine by slowly restructuring the soil and the topography of the land around the domaine to its actual size of 20 hectares. After the frost, after uprooting all the dead trees, vine growing became the main activity. After about 50 years of restructuring the vineyards and planting and replanting, the 20 hectares are now fully planted on the slopes surrounding the Domaine.

The Archimbaud family started to bottle their wine under the label “Clos des Cazaux in 1959 and the rest is history. The Domaine is now run by the fourth generation of Archimbaud, the two sons of Lucette Archimbaud and Maurice Vache, Jean-Michel since 1990, who was joined by his bother, also the oenologue of the Domaine, Frederique in 1998. They also possess about 40 hectares in Gigondas.

The Domaine now produces a wide range of wide: 5 Vacqueyras (2 whites, 1 rosé and 3 reds including “Cuvée des Templiers”), 2 Gigondas, 1 Côtes du Rhône and a unique and ultra limited Grenache Blanc sweet.


Clos des Cazaux “Cuvée des Templiers”

“Cuvée des Templiers” is blend of Syrah and Grenache of 30-40 years of age in average with natural low yield. The Syrah are planted in the calcareous-sandy “coteaux” (slopes) of Vacqueyras close to the Domaine. The vines benefit of an ideal east-west exposure, allowing the sun to warm up the grapes early in the morning, an important factor for sugar synthesis and better preservation of the natural acidity.

The Grenache grows in soils containing more clay than sand, which round up even more the texture of the wine. More over, the sandy soils are really poor generating even lower natural yield thus better concentration. Only 8 to 10 days are sufficient to extract all the best components during the maceration due the ideal ripeness, elements balance and acidity of the grape at harvest time. It is very important not to extract for too long to avoid over-extraction and to maintain the varietal typicity.

Consequently, they obtain a very fruity wine with powerful, persistent refined aromas of cassis and red fruits with spicy and floral notes like violet due to the Syrah grape that is more predominant in the blend.

Harvest and work in the vineyards are mainly done by hand, with minimal (or not at all in some cases) use of chemicals in order to respect the ecosystem of the vines and the environment. They also emphasize green harvest, cutting away about 20% of their crop, to only keep and select the best grapes to be left on the vines, therefore naturally reducing the yield to about 30hl/ha. I couldn’t get info on the ageing process….



2007 Domaine Le Clos des Cazaux Cuvee des Templiers Vacqueyras Rhône Valley France
Suggested retail price $18-$21
Imported / Distributed by Baron François in NYC

Beautiful red-garnet color, with fresh aromas of cassis, violet and red fruits with earthy notes. The palate is rather bright and earthy, with great acidity and crisp yet ripe red fruit. The finish has excellent tannins that may need a bit of time to settle down and integrate completely. Overall, a very interesting, juicy and vibrant Vacqueyras enhanced by an inviting structure and focus attitude from begin to end, with a lingering, earthy and slightly tannic finish. Definitely a food wine to pair with grilled beefsteak and Béarnaise sauce or a thyme roasted boneless leg of lamb with gratin Dauphinois; or if you prefer to wait a few years, keep it for at least 3-5 years and pair it then with seasonal game, like pheasant, or poultry.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken from the winery website at

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic and Organic wine (and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe!

Saturday, December 12, 2009

2006 Mas des Flauzières Gigondas "Four Danuga" Southern Rhone Valley France


2006 Mas des Flauzières Gigondas "Four Danuga" Southern Rhone Valley France

Belonging to the Entrechaux castle in the Middle Ages, “Le Mas des Flauzieres” is an old barn located at the foot of the Mont Ventoux, a distinguished mount locally called “the Giant of Provence” in the southern Rhone valley, near the small town of Vaison La Romaine.

Although it has been owned by the Benoit family since the end of the nineteenth century, it is not until recently that the Domaine experienced a renaissance and started to feel a new wind of changes.

Jérôme Benoit, the son, on completion of his studies in agronomy and enology, decided to create his winemaking cellar and has been marketing his wines since 2002, under the “Vigneron Independent” label which is (in general) a very good reference for great, small and rather unknown producers crafting natural and Terroir oriented value wines.

The property various vineyards extend over several villages from Mont Ventoux to the protected site of Dentelles de Montmirail, allowing Jérôme to produce wines from different appellations. This rare advantage of finding within the same family domain several wines from various soils and appellations, will take you on wine journey in the Rhone valley from their fruity, lively Côtes du Ventoux to the great and vigorous vintages of the universally known Gigondas.

Not far from Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas produces great earthy reds made with the same grape varieties. Although less rich or complex than their counterpart, they are a good alternative and usually a better value than its neighbors.

Mostly at the foot of Mont Ventoux, their vineyards, located on the slopes of the Ouvèze valley and planted on sandy and stony grounds, regroup approximately 70% Cinsault (20 years old) and 30% Syrah (20 years old).

Mas de Flauzieres produces quite a few wines from several identified-on-the-label parcels and vineyards (or Lieu-dits), here they are by appellation and increasing respective quality:

  • Ventoux “La Beaume”,
  • Ventoux “Font Aurel”,
  • Ventoux « La Reserve du Pereyras »,
  • Cotes du Rhone Villages « Le Laurias »,
  • Seguret « Cuvee Julien »,
  • Vaqueyras « le Pilon »,
  • Gigondas « Four Danuga »,
  • Gigondas « La Grande Reserve »
  • and a white called « Noblesse » Viognier.

2006 Mas des Flauzieres Gigondas "Four Danuga" southern Rhone valley
Suggested retail price $15-$18
Imported / Distributed by Maximilien Selections thru Fruit of the Vine in NYC

2006 Mas des Flauzieres Gigondas « Four Danuga » is a nice value and a very accessible Gigondas. A blend of Grenache, Syrah and a touch of Mouvedre, it is clean and light in the mouth, with notes of plum, spice, earth and smoke mingling on the palate before a pleasant, round and earthy finish. Try pairing this food-friendly red with red meat, cheeses or spicy foods.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info taken from the winery website at www.lemasdesflauzieres.com

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic and Organic wines (and Food) from sustainable cultures and respect the environment!

Friday, December 4, 2009

2004 Domaine de Pegau Cuvee Laurence Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rhone France


Domaine de Pegau

Domaine de Pegau has a long family tradition of growers that can be trace back to the 17th century and is one of the benchmarks of the Chateauneuf-du-Pape appellation.

The great grandparents of Paul Feraud expanded the Domaine Feraud (as it was known before it became Pegau) to 22 hectares.

In 1964, Paul decided to produce his own wine from selected 5 hectares of vineyards and bottle it at the property; the remaining wine was sold in bulk to Negociants. A new Chapter opened when Laurence the daughter of Paul and wife Odette, having finished her wine studies came back to work with her father.

In 1987, the Domaine Pegau was created to associate the experience and respective talents of father and daughter. The family tradition of winegrowers and winemakers will be ensured by Laurence and her husband Mark and their two children Maxim and Justine (names that already adorn the bottles of two private prestige Cuvees).

They now craft several earthy, balanced, generous and expressive wines, from the Chateauneuf-du-Pape appellation (and Cotes du Rhone), divided in 11 vineyards within the appellation which contribute to the diversity of taste, personality and character of each of their wines.

  • Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Cuvée Réservée", usually made from 75% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre, Counoise and other varieties. After a few months in steel tank, it is then aged for around 18 months in old oak foudres (huge wooden barrels).
  • Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Cuvée Laurence" is basically the same wine as the Cuvée Réservée but it is kept in wooden cask for another 18-24 months before being bottled (certain Cuvees spent up to 4 years, like the 1995, according to their website).
  • Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Cuvée da Capo", made in the same way as Cuvée Laurence but from the very best wine from the cellar.
  • Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Inspirationi, a fairly new Cuvee, I couldn't find much about it.
  • Cuvée Réservée Blanc Made mostly with Grenache Blanc and is aged for 6 months in small barrels.
  • “Vin du Table” Plan Pegau From vineyards right outside of the appellation from Pegau.


2004 Domaine de Pegau Cuvee Laurence Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rhone France
Suggested retail price $120-$160
Imported / Distributed by Little Wine Company in NYC

“Pegau” is an Old Provencal word from the “Langue d’Oc” (the ancient language spoken in the south and southeastern part of France which gave its name the vast region of Languedoc), which was the name of ancient wine jugs excavated from the old 14th century Pope palace in Avignon.

Like the “Cuvee Reservee”, “Cuvee Laurence” is the flagship cuvee of Domaine de Pegau, aged for 18-24 months (and up) in old “foudre” (big oak vats).

The 2004 “Cuvee Laurence” offers great, expressive earthy aromas of cassis, black cherry, lavender, wild herb with hints of earth, black currant and ripe fig. In the palate, this refined, charismatic, young wine is earthy, rich, robust yet delightful and balanced, with a very good tannic structure that will need a bit of time to settle down. The garrigues, pot pourri, earthy profile linger in the long, structured finish. It is a keeper that will evolve slowly and open nicely within the next few years. If you can’t wait decant it and wait for it for at least 30-45 minutes.

Enjoy!

Ledom du Vin

For more info about this winery go to their website at www.pegau.com

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic and Organic wines (and Food) from sustainable cultures and respect the environment!

Friday, November 20, 2009

2006 La Vinsobraise Vinsobres AOC Cru des Cotes du Rhone France

La Vinsobraise Vinsobres AOC Cru des Cotes du Rhone France

For generations, the same families of winegrowers, which regroup about 250 men and women tending their vines, cultivated the hills of this small corner of Provence, in the heart of the Rhône Valley. In 1949, they decided to combine their talents and created a local cooperative, known as “La Vinsobraise”.

Vine has been cultivated here since ancient Rome, regrouping about 2000 hectares and 2000 years of history, enhanced by so much perseverance, knowledge and passion. Between the few last remaining century-old olive trees and rows of lavender, on arid soil bathed in sunshine, they have been producing amazingly concentrated and aromatic Syrah and Grenache grapes. With new technologies and techniques came new vinification processes. And nowadays, each parcel of vines is taken care of according to its individual needs, exposition and micro climate. It may be hard work, but they aim for high quality wines made in the most natural process possible.

As previously said, "Vinsobres" has always been a land of olive trees where the vine has always been present. However, in 1956, a massive frost destroyed many olive groves (14000 to 15000 trees) and therefore farmers preferred to convert the land to agriculture less sensitive to cold.

Logically, and gradually, Terroir characteristics started to be more pronounced in this young wines made from slowly aging vines. Therefore, with the quality of the produced wines increasing, the Appellation started to climb the ladder of recognition and promotion; thus followed a historic day, September 7th, 1957 when "Vinsobres", which was just a part of the generic Côtes du Rhône appellation, justifiably gained the rank of "Appellation Côtes du Rhône Villages Vinsobres".

About 50 years later, in mid-February 2006, the Appellation was once again rewarded for the high quality and consistency of its wines, and the previous name of "Côtes du Rhône Villages Vinsobres" gave way to the higher rank in the hierarchy of the Rhône Appellations, precising a more specific and delineated area, Appellation Vinsobres Controllée (in short, "Vinsobres" was not anymore a sub-appellation of another Appellation, it became an Appellation on its own). The geographical area now represents 1385 hectares and considers only the red wines, starting with the 2004 harvest.

The soil around Vinsobres extends over 7 km slopes, (ranging in altitude from 100m to 450 meters above sea level) around the villages of Mirabelle aux Baronnies and Piégon in the department of Drôme. Soils are mostly marl sandy or marl rocky on hillside and quaternary alluvium in stony terrace. The climate is Mediterranean and vineyards are planted on slope influenced by the near by Alps mountains and protected by the "Mistral" (a strong and cold wind, coming from the north, which accelerates when it passes through the valleys of the Rhône river to reach the Mediterranean sea in the Camargue region).



2006 La Vinsobraise Vinsobres Cotes du Rhone France
Suggested retail price $12-$15
Imported / Distributed by Maximilien Selections thru Fruit of the Vines in NYC

La Vinsobraise 2006 Vinsobres AOC "Cuvee Rustica" (named “Emeraude” in France, which is not mentioned on the American label) is a pleasurable red wine combining richness, balance and depth with earthy and mineral, stony notes. A blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah from 40 year old vines, the grapes were hand harvested and followed traditional fermentation in Stainless steel tanks for about 20 days with longer maceration for maximum extraction of all the needed components. The wine was then aged for 12 months in barrels, then clarified before bottling.

The resulting wine has an intense, dark ruby color. The nose expresses wild dark berries with earthy, floral notes and forest scents intermingled with spices, vanilla and red fruits. The palate is rich and chewy yet not heavy, with good balance and acidity, marked by firm but integrated tannins leading toward the long lasting finish. Côtes du Rhône Villages lovers that are looking for one of their favorites with a bit more guts should be please by this robust yet enjoyable red wine.

PS: (not that it really matters to me, because I can only express my opinions about a wine just after tasting it and I usually don’t pay attention to scores or medals, but I can understand that some people may attach some importance to certain accolades and ratings, so FYI: it received a Gold Medal at the 2007 Paris competition)

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info taken from the winery website at www.cavecooperative-vinsobres.com

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Monday, October 19, 2009

2004 Betts & Scholl Hermitage Rouge Northern Rhône France


2004 Betts & Scholl Hermitage Rouge Northern Rhône France
Suggested retail price $72-$78
Importer / Distributor Polaner Selections in NYC

Betts & Scholl is a partnership between Master Sommelier Richard Betts and Dennis Scholl. Together, they have forged relationships with star growers and winemakers around the world to produce wines that they like to drink. With a preference for elegant, complex, balanced wines with great perfume and finesse, and more especially characteristic to their terroir of origin. Their first releases from Australia’s Barossa Valley have focused on Grenache, with subsequent wines made from Riesling and have just released new projects from California and the Northern Rhone focused on Syrah.

This beautiful expression of Hermitage comes from one of the most special spots on earth, and has been realized this through working with one of the region's most notable and celebrated wine producing families. The contemporary artwork on our label was created by Mark Grotjahn, an internationally renowned artist who lives and works in Los Angeles, California.

The 2004 Betts & Scholl Hermitage rouge is a blend of 95% Syrah blended with a touch Roussanne and Marsanne. The robe is bright ruby red, of medium intensity, with garnet reflects.
The nose is quite intense and attractive with freshly crushed wild red and dark berry, stone minerality, floral notes and spice. The palate is rich and dense yet of medium intensity, somewhat elegant and earthy, offering plenty of red fruit flavors intermingled with earthy, floral and spicy notes. The lingering finish is evidently calling for another glass of this well crafted Syrah based wine. overall, the acidity and the mineral keep it in focus and the tannins framing the mid-palate and the finish remind us how age worthy some of this Northern Rhône wine can be. to drink now after decanting or to keep for another few years.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin,

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Sunday, September 27, 2009

My favorite under $12 reds of the moment

My favorite under $12 reds of the moment

Although, as a Wine Buyer, I always need to keep an extremely open mind and a consistent yet very eclectic palate toward the wines that I try, taste and more especially buy (ranging from the driest, acidic or tannic, most esoteric to the fuller, often way too ripe - for my taste - and alcoholic style of wine), I recognize that, like anybody else, I also have my favorite wines that correspond a bit more to my true palate and that I rather drink at home. In most cases, I like to be surprised, intrigued, pleased and even fascinated by the wines that I will buy and put on the shelves, and I like my customers to experience the same thing when they will try it.

You see, I love my job (not everybody can say that... isn't it?), and what makes it even more interesting and kept me going to work in the wine-business as a Wine Buyer - Sommelier and Wine Director for the last 18 years, is the fact that I have to understand, comprehend, learn about, dissect and analyze each wine that I taste everyday, not only to keep my palate sharp, trained and skilled, but also to be able to always provide, everyday, the best, most interesting and most eclectic choice of wines from all around the world to my customers.

And that's what I try do everyday at the store: please and satisfy the interest and the curiosity of my customers by sharing my knowledge with them, offering great service by trying to understand their palate, what they would like to drink and more especially respect their budget, but also trigger their interest by always trying to recommend them different wines from various countries to extend their experience.

There is nothing worst than to go shopping in a wine store where the staff has no knowledge, no passion and no conviction, and thus where the wines are boring and have the same type of taste profile due to a narrow minded wine buyer behind the wine selection on the shelves.

What I love the most and what usually pleases most of my customers, is that I usually do a good job in general by recommending the most appropriate wines (despite a few exceptions from time to time, nobody's perfect...), but my forté is the wines under $20 and more especially the wines under $15. As I always say: "I'm the King of under $15", and that for 2 reasons, first because I rather (and it is much more fun) sell 12 different bottles at $10 than 1 bottle at $120, and second, because (like most of my customers) these under $15 wines are the ones that I drink at home with friends and family, thus that I know the best and that I can more easily recommend with even more conviction and excitement.

The next 4 wines are part of these little gems that I had a lot of pleasure to suggest lately to my customers. I hope that if you'll try them and you'll agree with my choices. These are some of my favorites of the moment.

Enjoy them young, as an aperitif with hors d'oeuvres, but also with more sophisticated Fall-Winter dinner stews like: "Ragoût" (any stew), "Daube" (usually prepared with beef braised in red wine vegetables, garlic and herbes de Provence), a "Blanquette de Veau" (prepared with veal in a white sauce, but also be made with Lamb, Chicken or Rabbit) or even with a "gibier" (Game).


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2008 Henry Fessy "Château des Reyssiers" Regnié Crus de Beaujolais Burgundy France
Suggested retail price $10-$13
Imported by Louis Latour / Distributed by Mr. Touton Selections

Domaine of Henry Fessy produces wines for generations in the village of Saint-Jean-d'Ardières, located in the southern part of the Beaujolais region, east of Brouilly and west of Belleville (south of Macon and north of Lyon).

The ancestors of Serge and Henry Fessy, the Pellissier family, began to buy, grow and sell wines in 1888. Then, they bought a wine estate in the heart of Beaujolais ("Le Paradis") in Brouilly. After the first World War, Henry Fessy, the son in law of Jean Pellissier, became the successor and started to run the estate which now bears his name. It was a very distinguished man that inspired respect. He created the co-operative cellar of Bel-Air in 1928, and remained its President for more than 40 years.

In 1947, his son Georges took over the family estate and continued with dedication the work of his father helped by the rest of the family. Nowadays, the Domaine is run by Henry (named after is grand-father) and Serge Fessy, his little brother, who carefully take care of the 11 hectares of vines planted mainly in Brouilly and Beaujolais AOC, but also carefully select the grapes and wines that they will vinify, age, bottle and sell under their Négociant label. They also take care of the wines of different growers.

Today, including the resulting wines from their vines and the wines that they bought and vinified, they produce more than 2 millions bottles from a state of the art cellar facility which allow them to proudly insure the quality and the consistency of their wines. They are probably the only Négociant company in Beaujolais which completely vinify their own wines.

Domaine Henri Fessy produces quite a few wines from all the appellations of Beaujolais, the 2 generic and the 10 Crus: Beaujolais, Beaujolais Villages, Brouilly, Cote de Brouilly, Régnié, Morgon, Chiroubles, Juliénas, Chenas, Fleurie, St. Amour and Moulin à Vent.

gnié was the most recently recognized cru of Beaujolais in 1988. Despite its resemblance with its nearby siblings Brouilly and Morgon, Régnié possesses it sown typicality which defines its personality.

2008 Henry Fessy "Château des Reyssiers" Regnié is a charming, easy going, light Gamay wine. The robe is light, bright ruby red. Developed aromas of red berries, like red currant and raspberry, with subtle floral perfume constitute the nose. In the palate, the attack is quite juicy and fruity, expanding nicely in a structured, elegant and supple mid-palate. The acidity carries the red fruit flavors with focus toward the lingering, fresh and dry finish. Quite well rounded without excessive tannins, this wine is well made, simple yet refined and charming, somewhat feminine and refreshing with a twist of earthiness. Enjoy it warm temperature with white meat and poultry, or even slightly chilled with fish or cheese.

Enjoy!

Info taken partly from the winery website at: www.vins-henry-fessy.com

LeDom du Vin

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2006 Cantele Salice Salentino Riserva Apulia Southeastern Italy
Suggested retail price $9-$11
Imported / Distributed by Vias Imports in NYC


2006 Cantele Salice Salentino Riserva is roughly a blend of 80% Negroamaro and 20% Malvasia Nera, from vineyards located next the village of Guagnano. After de-stemming, crushing, maceration of 6-7 days and fermentation, this Riserva wine aged in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks for 3 years with selected lots being transferred to French and American "barriques" (barrels) where they matured for at least six months to add more dimension and structure, before bottling.

The robe is quite intense, dark ruby red. The expressive nose exposes earthy aromas of ripe red fruits, spices and cigar box, woody notes. In the mouth, it is fruity, dry and earthy, quite full yet balanced by the tannins and great acidity to keep it fresh, almost crisp, with ripe red and dark fruit and hints of spices. Smooth and rounded in the finish, with gentle vanilla oaky notes, it is pretty easy going and perfect for simple dish and picnic, yet it structure and texture can definitely complement heavier and earthier "wintery" dishes, like roasted or braised beef or lamb. Perfectly fine with pasta and meat sauce. Ideal with medium to hard cheese.

Enjoy!

Also read my previous post on the 2004 vintage at www.LeDomduVin.com and you will find even more info on the winery website at www.cantele.it and on the distributor website at www.viaswine.com

LeDom du Vin

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2007 Domaine de Fenouillet Côtes du Ventoux Rhône Valley France
Suggested retail price $10-$13
Imported / Distributed by MadRose / Rosenthal in NYC

The Domaine de Fenouillet is situated in the village of Beaumes de Venise at the foot of the "Dentelles de Montmirail", the heart of the finest vineyard sites in the southern Côtes du Rhône. The Domaine has been in the hands of the Soard Family for many generations, until 1989 the grapes were harvested and immediately sold to the growers' cooperative. Vincent and Patrick Soard took over direction of the domaine in 1989 and, at that point, began to vinify their harvest and bottle the wines now made at the estate.

The Domaine: There are 16 hectares planted to grapes: 5.3 hectares devoted to Muscat to make the fabled Muscat de Beaumes de Venise; 7.7 hectares planted in the appellation of Cotes du Rhone Villages "Beaumes de Venise"; and 3 hectares within the Cotes du Ventoux appellation. Average production levels are 34 hectoliters per hectare yielding approximately 5,000 cases of wine per year.

The vineyards for the Beaumes de Venise Rouge are situated at an altitude of 350 meters and rest in soil composed of clay and chalk. The grape combination for the principal reds is: 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% old vines Mourvedre and 10% Cinsault.

Vinification: The entire harvest is done manually. The Muscat for the Muscat de Beaumes de Venise is picked at optimum levels of maturity to achieve maximum sugar concentration. Several passes through the vineyards and a severe selection of the individual clusters is done prior to fermentation. Crushing is done with a modern pneumatic press to extract the finest juice which is then fermented under temperature-controlled conditions for about 15 days. The fermentation is then stopped to leave the wine with residual natural sugar. The Muscat de Beaumes de Venise is normally bottled in the spring of the year following harvest. For the Beaumes de Venise Rouge and the Cotes du Ventoux, the varietals are harvested and vinified separately and then blended to create the final cuvees. The Cotes du Ventoux is vinified with the objective of making a fresh, fruity wine for current consumption. The Beaumes de Venise Rouge, with its component of old vines and concentration of Grenache, is solidly built, deeply colored and quite age worthy. There is an extended cuvaison to achieve maximum extract; the wines are aged in both "cuve" and barrel; and the bottling is done normally after two years of aging without being filtered. Beginning in 1995, the Soards have bottled a special cuvee of Beaumes de Venise Rouge known as "Cuvee Yvon Soard", in honor of their father. This extremely limited production wine is exclusively from old vines and provides an additional level of complexity and intensity.

2007 Domaine de Fenouillet Côtes du Ventoux Rhône Valley is a lovely, dry, bistro-ish red from the south of the Rhône Valley. Made of approximately 75% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 5% Carignan, the robe offers a medium to dark color in the glass, with good intensity. Soft, ripe red and dark berry aromas intermingled with earth, mineral and wild bush scent. The palate is softly textured, dry yet ample with generous dark, ripe fruit due to the Grenache and earthy notes. The finish also is earthy with some, fairly integrated yet a touch dry, tannins. Overall, here again, a well made wine with interesting features, good acidity and fruit, in a very versatile way. Appealing and bistro-ish, a quaffer for everyday, easy drinking with a bite of something, like: charcuterie, cold cut, cheese, grilled meat, chicken, etc...

Enjoy!

Info mostly taken from the Importer / Distributor website at www.madrose.com

LeDom du Vin


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2008 Château de Massiac Cuvée "Sentinelle de Massiac" (2nd wine) Minervois Languedoc France
Suggested retail price $9-$12
Imported / Distributed by Madrose / Rosenthal

France and Bernard Boudouresques own the Château de Massiac, located in Azille, a small village in the heart of the Minervois appellation south of one of the best Minervois' vineyards "La Liviniere"(also an appellation on its own since 1999), on the road between Carcassonne and Narbonne (Aude, western Languedoc, France).

Sentinelle, being the second wine of Château Massiac, is a blend of younger vines 50% Syrah and 50% Carignan, compared to the first wine which is normally older vines 75% Syrah and 25% Carignan, planted on rocky clay-limestone soils.

Here again a very bistro-ish wine, well balanced and easy going little red wine, with a soft, versatile and food friendly profile (everything that I love and that I'm looking for when I buy and drink a wine, somewhat my specialty... finding these little everyday gems: great wines at very affordable prices! I definitely love my job).

In the glass, it is dark in color and quite intense. The nose is clean, fresh yet ripe and gentle with dark fruit and blackcurrant aromas. The palate is very friendly, supple with nice ripe dark berry flavors mixed with earth and garrigues notes. Tannins are present yet integrated and the earthy finish is quite inviting. A really enjoyable sipper red for a very decent price, to appreciate all day long with cold cut, charcuterie, steak frites and other bistro food and easy going red meat dishes. Love it.

Enjoy!

I couldn't find much info about the winery and the importer Madrose/Rosenthal doesn't have any info on their website. However, here is their contact info: Massiac, Chateau de Massiac (alo under Domaine de Massiac) 11700 Azille - Tel: 04.68.91.49.92 (I like the wine so much, I will surely give them a phone call soon to ask for more info, may be I will write a post about it).

LeDom du Vin

Monday, August 31, 2009

1997 Jean-Luc Colombo Cornas "Les Ruchets" Rhône Valley France

Fall has arrived early this year....and substantial reds come to mind.

This year, last spring, we were waiting for winter to be over. Summer only arrived by the end of June and it rained a lot with only a few nice days and mostly stormy, humid and soggy days for about 2 months. And by the 31st of August, it felt already like Fall, or as we say in French: Automne. Colder nights and crispy, refreshing mornings, complemented by a slightly chilly wind blowing already some dry, brown and yellow-beige leafs gathering on the pavement.

Although, I will have preferred a longer summer and I'm hoping that we will have a very enjoyable, sunny Indian summer, I need to admit that I like Fall. I love its changing colors and shades in the woods, forests, fields, park and countryside from green and pale yellow-crème to bright yellow and red to blond and Burgundy and Brown, and all the nuances in between.

It is now time to think less about vivid white wines (although dry whites are nice all year long, they fill nicer and fresher during spring and summer, and somewhat too cold in winter) and more about heavier rosés and richer, earthy reds.

So here is a fuller, spicier and richer red from the Rhône valley produced by Jean-Luc Colombo.

Before writing this post, I'd like to explain (again) my view about big names, labels and brands.

So, I will not necessarily write an entire post about Jean-Luc Colombo, first because he is really well-known and already quite a few people have wrote something about him and his wines, but also because I always pride myself to write about lesser known producers and small, more artisanal winemakers and unknown estates from lesser known regions.

One may think that I should also write about big names, brands and labels, but frankly, and it is the same for my buying strategy when I buy wines and spirits for the store, I try to limit them or even avoid them as much as I can. Don't get me wrong, I'm always happy to taste them, but I rather not buy and sell them in the store. Already too many stores have them on their shelves and I like to be different and offer more values from lesser known, unfamiliar names with no ratings, little press and little distribution.

Of course, some are difficult to pass by and ignore... they became the usual suspects of high-end wine and the pride of some wine stores due to small production, allocated quantity, highly expensive price, high demand, high rating, important marketing, reputation and history...and it is fine, some of them are very good to great and some have been the leading flagships of their appellation for years which make them even more attractive and more valuable for both wine buyers and consumers... but I rather detached myself from all of that, walk outside of the main path and specialize myself in lesser established producers, winemakers and estates.

However, a few days ago, my boss gave me 2 bottles of 1997 Jean-Luc Colombo Cornas "Les Ruchets" Rhône Valley France, for me to try at home. So I thought that It might be a good idea to write about it, to describe the experience of tasting what could be considered as an old wine.





1997 Jean-Luc Colombo Cornas "Les Ruchets" Rhône Valley France
Suggested retail price $65-$70
Imported / Distributed by Palm Bay in NYC

The long cork was moist and in very good condition. It the glass, the color is dense and intense yet blurry or cloudy (due to no filtration), quite opaque brown with a few sediment. Not knowing the state of the wine and due to the 1997 vintage which wasn't great in the Rhône valley (and in many other places in France in general), I decided not to decant it.

At first, the nose of this 100% Syrah Cornas "Les Ruchets" was very expressive with interesting tertiary aromas of old prune, under-bush, forest floor and balsamic with a touch of spices and hints of oak and violet. After about 5-10 minutes, the nose evolved weirdly with more accentuated mixed aromas of alcohol and old wood, a touch musty and more balsamic notes. After about 20-25 minutes, the initial weird aromas dissipated to go back to old prune, ripe dark cherry, kirsch, violet, balsamic, spices and oak notes.

In the palate, the attack is still pretty full and rich and expands quickly in the palate with super ripe dark cherry and plum flavors, with oak notes, hints of spices and bitter chocolate. Although the finish remains quite juicy and long yet a bit inharmonious, the old prune and dark cherry fruit seem too overripe and the oak is not integrated and hasn't settled yet. Also the balsamic notes and acidity and the musty notes are very present and not satisfying.

May be it is only a matter of opinion or palate, however, my overall view is that this earthy wine seems a bit old already, unbalanced and too over-rippe, like cooked or stewed. The bitter dark chocolate and woody flavors may suit the palate of certain persons. The kirsch and super ripe dark cherry, old prune profile may interest some others, but overall, even if this wine presents no real big defaults yet some angularities and signs of bad ageing, I will not have any pleasure to finish the opened bottle. The finish also presents a slight mustiness, bitterness and seems very raw (touch dirty due to no filtration).

However, the experience was interesting and intriguing and as I always say: "Every wine deserves to be tasted, even if not every wine should be drunk! And you can't say that you don't like a wine, if you didn't try it. And, moreover, you can't say that you don't like certain wines made with this grape variety or from this particular region, because you'll never know what you might discover or how a wine could surprise you, until you've tried it!" LeDom du Vin

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

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Tasted on 09/01/09

I couldn't resist to open the second bottle of 1997 Jean-Luc Colombo Cornas "Les Ruchets", to see if it tasted the same or similar as the first one. In fact, I was surprised that it was slightly better and more balanced overall and seemed fresher, not as ripe and oaky in the attack and the mid-palate. Yet the slight mustiness and slightly inharmonious, earthy, almost dirty finish (due to no filtration) remained somewhat the same as in the first one. A more interesting experience, yet still not great or put together.... Tampis!

Although I usually like quite a few of the wines from Jean-Luc Colombo, tasting this 1997 Cornas Les Ruchets confirmed two things for me (and it is my opinion).

First that 1997, even if a lot wines received good to very good ratings at that time and that the vintage was considered good to very good by some influential wine critics and magazines (that I will not name, but if you read my blog often, you probably know already my point of view on certain personalities and critics of the wine world), it wasn't that much of a great vintage in the northern Rhône to begin with (lot of dry tannins not yet settled and many over ripe wines with low acidity).

And secondly that Jean-Luc Colombo has made a lot of progress for the better and slightly changed his style since then, because the last few wines that I tasted from him were pretty good, more balanced, and although younger, the oak was more settled and the acidity lifted the fruit character on a nicer, needed way. In any cases, Jean-Luc Colombo remains a producer that I like. He is a benchmark of the northern Rhône who will always make rich, structured and forward wines.

The last few wines that I tasted were La Louvée Cornas, Viognier La Violette, Les Abeilles Côtes du Rhône rouge that I bought for the store, but I will describe them in another post.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

For more info about Jean-Luc Colombo and his wines go to the importer website at www.palmbayimports.com

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Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Domaine La Manarine: exquisite, balanced Côtes du Rhône wines

After my little homage to Neal Rosenthal, I would like to introduce you to "Domaine La Manarine", an estate from the Rosenthal portfolio producing exquisite, balanced Côtes du Rhône wines.

Côtes du Rhône

But first, I need to say a few words about Côtes du Rhône (or CdR in short). There are many Côtes du Rhône wines in this market and they are not all good, as one may think. People often ask:"Do you have a good Côtes du Rhône?" Well, it is a very vague question and fortunately wine boutiques and specialized cavistes like us usually narrow down their selection to the best and the more expressive ones that they can find.

You see, Côtes du Rhône is a huge and long appellation that emcompasses 2/3 of the Rhone Valley. Starting in the south of Lyon and produced roughly everywhere from Viennes to Avignon, which is quite a long drive, CdR wines can be made out of many different grape varieties (blended or not), predominantely Syrah and Grenache for Red and Rose and Grenache blanc for white, through out about 170 villages and communes.

Along that long hilly road following the Rhône River, Côtes du Rhône wines are made out many different terroirs, type of soils and micro-climates, and sun expositions, that really influence their taste, texture, intensity and complexity. More over there are different levels of quality. Let's say that usually the step up in quality (and price) from a regular CdR is the Côtes du Rhône Villages, with or without the village name on it, although it is better and offer more depth and character when the village name is on it, like Rasteau or Sablet (both extremely different, the former being stronger, bolder and riper, the latter being slightly more rustic and earthy, with higher acidity and juicier fruit) or Cairanne.


Like in Burgundy and Loire valley, knowing your Côtes du Rhône producers is the best way to make the best and safer choices. This way, you will find more regular satisfaction level and less annoying variances in taste and flavors.

As for any other wines, ask your local wine boutique for more details about which style of Côtes du Rhône Red you want to drink: juicy, earthy and not too heavy or riper, medium to full bodied, with more structure.

Just remember that Côtes du Rhône is an AOC that covers both the northern and southern sub-regions of Rhône. Wines from the high quality and major Northern and Southern AOC are rarely declassified into CdR wines, it will not make sense for the producers. Typically Côtes du Rhône is produced when the wine does not qualify for an appellation that can command a higher price (due to young vines or declassified wine, etc...) and when the vines are not in the appellation. Therefore, almost all Côtes du Rhône AOC wines are produced in the much larger southern Rhône, since the northern sub-region is mostly covered by well-known appellations of higher quality and standard and also is much smaller in terms of total vineyard surface.

Northern Rhône

The northern Rhône is characterised by its vineyards planted on steep slope overlooking the Rhône River, but also and more importantly by a continental climate with harsh winters and warm summers. Its climate is influenced by the mistral wind, which brings colder air from the Massif Central. Northern Rhône is therefore cooler than southern Rhône, which means that the mix of planted grape varieties and wine styles are slightly different than the Southern Rhône .

Northern Côtes du Rhône reds are predominantely made with Syrah, often mixed up to 15% with a touch of white grape varieties like Viognier, Marsanne and Roussane, to add freshness and balance. Somewhat lighter in color with earthy, dryer tannins, they usually have good acidity, touch of spice and a good structure, most are definitely age worthy, fairly fullbodied and somewhat more rustic than in the Southern part of the Rhone, with characteristic aromas of olive, meat and smoky bacon.

Southern Rhône

The southern Rhône sub-region has a more Mediterranean climate with milder winters and hot summers. Drought can be a problem in the area, and depending on the vintage and the necessity, limited irrigation is permitted. The differing terroirs, the steep slopes giving way to a broad valley floor, together with the rugged hilly landscape which partly protects the valleys from the Mistral, produce microclimates which give rise to a wide diversity of grape varieties and wines. Due to diurnal temperature variation, one major feature of the cultivation of the region is the use of large pebbles, also called "gallets", that cover the ground around the bases of the vines (and most of the vineyards of the plateau like around Châteauneuf du Pape) to absorb the heat of the sun during the day to keep the vines warm and restore the heat at night, because there is often a significant drop in temperature.

The southern Côtes du Rhône reds, made with Grenache predominantly, can appear fleshier, bolder, riper, rounder, somewhat more agreable and approcheable, with more integrated tannins. They are often characterized by their aromas of ripe black fruit, chocolate and "Garrigue" (represented often by the small wild bushes and herbs growing in the harsh soils and hot climate of the Southern Rhône and Provence, it is somewhat a concept or a notion that encompasses the Terroir itself, influenced by the Mediteranean wind and climate, combining earthy scents of undergrowth or wild bushes, herbs and plants like Rosemary, Thyme, Lavender, etc... and wild berry).


Once again, every palate is different and wine tasting is very subjective from one individuel to the next. More over, the producers' style may vary a great deal, so as I said earlier , like in Burgundy and Loire Valley, (it may be true for other regions in France, but more especially for these two), once you've found your style(s) and your producer(s), stick to them or you may end up spending a lot of money for nothing and be very disappointed.

Therefore, I bought 3 excellent little wines, good value for money and perfect for the approaching summer. All of this writing about Rhône make me thirsty, let's talk about Domaine La Manarine

Domaine La Manarine

Created in April 2001 by Gilles Gasq, and run with his wife Sylvie, Domaine La Manarine is a small owned family estate. The 9.5 hectares of vineyards are located within the commune of Travaillan, on a splendid plateau northeast of Orange, called Le Plan de Dieu (God's workfield). Gilles is a talented young winemaker who has honed his skills working as an assistant to Paul Jeune, the proprietor of Domaine de Monpertuis and Chateau Valcombe.

Gilles learned his lessons well. Using traditional winemaking, the resulting wines have excellent balance and high acidity, with great earthy notes and juicy fruit. They are less earthy and to some extend brighter than Domaine de Monpertuis and they are not as opulent and rich as Chateau de Valcombe, yet they match both in depth and complexity (in my opinion). Gilles surely applied techniques that he mastered in both estate, add a touch of that traditional viticultural heritage inherited from the older generations and adapted it to the microclimates and Terroir of his vineyards, in order to craft the best possible wines. And it shows.

As I explained it earlier, the round-oval limestone rocks or pebbles (called "gallets") are a distinct feature of the soil here. They impart character, facilitate drainage, and retain and radiate back heat during the cooler nights. Therefore, despite the lack of rain and the heat of the Mediterranean climate, Gilles is in a region blessed by Bacchus and Dyonisos (even if they are the same and unique wine god) where the quality of the Terroir, the characteristic of the soils and the diverse microlimates provide enormous potential to craft high quality, ripe and expressive wines.

Grenache Noir is the main grape variety of the region. It performs particularly well on this type of soil and gives wines with more elegance and aroma than is otherwise common (which also explain the elegance of his wines). Gilles has recently acquired one hectare of Syrah vines that will enter into the 2002 harvest which will then enable the Manarine wines to bear the appellation: Côtes du Rhône Villages ­ Travaillan.

Gilles vinifies two different cuvées from separate plots of vines. Both are 100% Grenache Noir. His first cuvée, the Côtes du Rhône, is made from his younger vines (average 25 years old). The second cuvée, destined for aging and called "Terres Saintes", is made from a selection of lower yielding old vines (average 45 years old).

Gilles destems the entire harvest and uses cement tanks for fermentation. The Côtes du Rhône undergoes fermentation and maceration for 18 days; the "Terres Saintes" (structured as a "vin de garde") benefits from a longer "cuvaison" of 30 days. During the "elevage" both wines go through "delestage" and "remontage" (a technique whereby the tank is completely emptied and the wine pumped back into it on top of the layer of skins) to extract color and flavor. In addition, 20% of the "Terres Saintes" is aged for 8 months in "demi-muids" or large barrels. Gilles also produces a Côtes du Rhône White and a Rosé.


2008 Domaine La Manarine Côtes du Rhône White Travaillan France
Suggested retail price $13-$15
Distributed by Rosenthal in NYC

A blend of predominantly Grenache Blanc and Clairette, La Manarine white CdR is clean, fresh, very mineral with bright acidity, which is somewhat rare yet desired to avoid flabiness. The nose combines white fruit, peach blossom and light touch of golden apple. The palate is fairly light, vivid, balanced with an excellent texture and minerality. Lighter, brighter with less fat than previous vintage, but it works for the better in this case, especially with the summer approaching. Super summery and probably one of the most interesting white rhone that I tasted since Chateau L'Ermitage White (except that L'ermitage is a fuller wine, better for colder season, see my post on it).


2008 Domaine La Manarine Côtes du Rhône Rosé Travaillan France
Suggested retail price $10-12
Distributed by Rosenthal in NYC

A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault, La Manarine Rose CdR is also light and bright with racy acidity and a very good balance. Floral with light notes of wild red berries, quite harmonious with good depth, elegance and freshness, it is a really enjoyable wine that has a nice way to coat the palate. Here again mineral and brighter rather than being full or super fruity (like some CdR rose can be). Love it. Simple and thrist quenching. To enjoy as an aperitif with charcuterie, cold cut, raw vegetable.


2006 Domaine La Manarine Côtes du Rhône Rouge Travaillan France
Suggested retail price $12-14
Distributed by Rosenthal in NYC

A blend of predominantly Grenache and the other usual suspect red Rhone grapes, La Manarine Red CdR is a nice, healthy, clean, earthy, juicy Côtes du Rhône with great acidity and light garrigue character. Here again, fresher rather than being full or over ripe, it is a traditional, earthy, gentle wine with personality. It displays red and dark cherry, touch of spice, earthy note, good juicy fruit and a versatile mouthfeel.


My overall view of these wines and the "Domaine La Manarine" is "balance and harmony", nothing too opulent or over extracted, just plain, simple yet balanced, harmonious and bright Côtes du Rhône wines. Definitely a good value on the shelves. A Domaine to follow, presenting straight forward, versatile attitude and solid consistency.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken from www.Madrose.com and www.wikipedia.org

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