LeDomduVin: Subtle Power

Subtle power 

I recently selected and served these wines for a private dinner, and I hadn't tasted them in a while. I was expecting them to be rich and exuberant, but in the end, their strength lay in their subtlety. 

Dom Ruinart Champagne Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2010

Dom Ruinart exclusively selects Chardonnay from primarily Grand Cru sites. 90% of the Chardonnay grapes are sourced from the Côte des Blancs (including Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Avize, Chouilly, and Cramant), planted in the Côte’s famous white, calcareous chalky soil where it excels, benefiting from an easterly exposure. The remaining 10% comes from the north-facing Montagne de Reims, specifically from Maison Ruinart's historic vineyard, located in the Grand Cru areas of the village of Sillery.

Dom Ruinart 2010 represents a significant milestone. In its pursuit of excellence, Maison Ruinart extended the wine's aging process to reveal additional layers of flavor. For this cuvée, the oenological team decided to reintroduce cork during aging, confirming its benefits through years of tastings. After at least 9 years ageing on its lees, it is notable that the cork has imparted a woody character to this vintage, in addition to the aromas of grilled almonds and coffee on the nose and palate. Extra Brut with a dosage of 4 g/L.  

Beyond its pale yellow gold color, the nose is aromatic and fresh, offering aromas of yellow and stone fruits mingling with floral, mineral, toasted, and nutty notes. Overall, the palate is generous, ample, and layered, lingering somewhat, although not as long as I would have liked; yet the finish is fresh and elegant, elevated by a subtle bitterness. As it is neither too heavy nor too light, it is a good champagne to bring to any occasion, ideal as an aperitif with appetizers. A real quaffer!    

Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres 2020

Vincent Bitouzet’s family history in Burgundy spans the last two centuries, with the Bitouzets among the earliest families in the area to bottle their own wines. Vincent’s grandfather received awards for his winemaking in 1860. When Vincent married Annie Prieur, they merged parts of their family estates to establish a renowned domaine. Now, their son Francois Bitouzet, Vincent and Annie’s son, is actively collaborating with his parents.

Based in Volnay, with significant holdings in Meursault, the domaine covers 12 hectares, roughly four of which are planted with Chardonnay, and the remaining eight with Pinot Noir. They practice organic viticulture, and the harvest is manually done. Classic Burgundian winemaking methods are used, using only indigenous yeasts.

The Bitouzet-Prieur family owns just over a quarter-hectare of Chardonnay, planted in 1983, in the lower part of this renowned premier cru "Les Perrières Dessous," located right above "Les Charmes" on the slope. The Meursault-Perrières is probably the most dazzling mineral wine in their collection. While it can be closed when young, it gradually opens up into a stunning white Burgundy with layered complexity. 

I was unsure what to expect from this wine, as it was my first time trying it.  I previously tried other wines from Bitouzet-Prieur, but never this particular one. I'm not sure why I always want to say "Bizoutet" ("Bizouter" is a slang in French that means "kissing" or "giving kisses", which would be a nice and funny name) instead of "Bitouzet". 

However, I was pleasantly surprised, as instead of being a powerhouse of creamy butter, popcorn, and toasted oak flavors, as some Meursault can be (those that are more New World-style than the New World Chardonnays themselves), this wine is all about subtlety, refinement, and elegance. The oak treatment is present but barely noticeable, as only about 25-30% new oak is used during its 16-month aging process, making it significantly more palatable and enjoyable than those using 100% new oak.  

At first, I misinterpreted its subtlety and elegance as a lack of body and weight. I wanted more from it, more fruit, more substance, more backbone. However, it then began to reveal itself after a few seconds. I tasted it again, and then it hit me. It was beautiful and charming. Fresh, light, and elegant yet complex and layered, it was like a ballerina, showcasing power, balance, precision, and sophistication in a subtle and graceful manner. If timid, the nose is fresh and mineral, with aromas of yellow fruits and citrus, combined with a gentle hint of buttery, toasted oak and herbal nuances. The palate is soft, silky, elegant, and refined, gently expanding towards the long, fresh, and mineral finish. Loved it!                   

Drouhin-Laroze Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru 2016

Domaine Drouhin-Laroze has been a family-owned estate for over 150 years, featuring numerous prestigious appellations in the top-tier Premier Cru and Grand Cru categories, which showcases a rich heritage. Today, Philippe and Christine Drouhin, along with their children, manage the estate.

Drouhin-Laroze's Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru comes from an east-facing plot at 260 meters elevation, where the vines were planted in 1973 and 1986. The monks of Bèze established a chapel at that location in 1155. It was reconstructed in 1457 before eventually being destroyed, and it is the origin of the name of the appellation.

Those who follow me for a while know that I'm a huge fan of wines with "Chambertin" in the name. Why? The wines of Gevrey-Chambertin, from the village wines to the Premier Crus and Grands Crus, are some of the most versatile wines of all Burgundy. For a Sommelier like me, they are the easiest to pair with. And this Chapelle-Chambertin from Drouhin Laroze confirmed this rule. 

The 2016 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru features approximately 30% whole-bunch fruit, which adds complexity, texture, and structure. Right after opening, the nose displays fresh aromas of ripe red cherries and berries, mingling with floral, mineral, oaky, and earthy notes, reminiscent of a forest floor, but springier than autumnal. Light to medium-bodied, the palate remains quite subtle and could have benefited from a bit more volume and substance. And yet, it is clean, focused, refined, elegant, and sophisticated in its subtlety, with a finely textured and structured palate that is well-balanced between fruit and acidity, and a silky mouthfeel and fine tannins, all culminating in a lingering mineral earthy finish. Loved it.  

Chateau Lynch-Bages Pauillac Bordeaux 2005

Château Lynch-Bages, situated at the entrance to Pauillac, is a notable estate that has significantly influenced the history of the Médoc wine region. The terroir surrounding the area and the old village of Bages has been recognized since the 16th century, but it achieved broader fame in the 18th century.

According to "The Wine Insider," the Dejean family sold the property in 1728 to Pierre Drouillard. In 1749, Drouillard passed the estate to his daughter, Elizabeth, who was married to Thomas Lynch. That’s how the estate became part of the Lynch family, where it remained for seventy-five years and later on inspired the name "Lynch Bages". (*)

In the 1930s, Jean-Charles Cazes, already managing Les Ormes de Pez in St. Estèphe, took on a lease for Lynch Bages' vineyards. The Cazes family had a long legacy in Bordeaux dating back to the late 1800s. Jean-Charles Cazes later bought both estates just before World War II. Since then, Lynch Bages and Les-Ormes-de-Pez have remained under the Cazes family's management. (*)

Jean-Michel Cazes, who started as an engineer in Paris, entered the wine industry and began managing the estate in 1973. Soon after, he modernized every aspect of Lynch Bages. Jean-Michel Cazes met more people, traveled more often, and promoted his wines worldwide like no other Château owner. Lynch Bages is now one of the most popular and beloved brands in Bordeaux wine, thanks to Jean Michel Cazes's relentless efforts. It’s interesting to note that Jean-Michel Cazes was one of the first château owners to start promoting their wine in China in 1986. (*)

In June 1989, Lynch Bages inaugurated its new winemaking facilities, perfectly timed to celebrate one of the finest vintages they've ever produced. That same year also saw the opening of the Cordeillan-Bages hotel and restaurant. A few years afterward, the renovated Village de Bages, featuring various shops, was established.(*)

In 2006, Jean-Michel's son, also named Jean-Charles Cazes, became the managing director of Château Lynch-Bages. Jean-Michel Cazes continued to lead the family's wine and tourism division. Thanks to ongoing promotion in the Asian market, Château Lynch-Bages remains one of the strongest brands in the region, especially in China.(*)

A benchmark among fine Pauillac wines and one of the most recognizable Bordeaux labels, especially in the US and Asia, Château Lynch-Bages boasts over 90 hectares of vineyard rooted in the region's characteristic Garonne and lower Gironde estuary gravel soil. The hand-picked grapes are initially sorted in the vineyard and then usually aged for 15 months in about 80% new oak barrels.

A blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot, Lynch-Bages benefited from the notoriously warm, sunny, and dry 2005 vintage. The lower yields, caused by dry conditions and water stress, limited production but improved ripening quality, resulting in high-quality grapes. 

The 2005 Lynch-Bages is very seductive and aromatic on both the nose and the palate. In the glass, the color is deep ruby with a slightly brownish hue. On the nose, it boasts a melange of dark berries, cassis, cedar, graphite, and forest floor aromas, with floral notes (such as violet) and earthy undertones. The palate is unexpectedly soft and gentle, medium-bodied and silky, with present yet fine and well-integrated, ripe tannins that add both texture and structure. It has enough acidity to keep it fresh and lively, and is balanced with the ripeness of the fruit, leading to a long, persistent, and delicious earthy finish. Loved it! 

And, once again, being a Pauillac spawned from the 2005 vintage, I was waiting for a bigger wine with more volume and weight, and yet its strength lay in its subtlety.  Well done!     

These are four elegant, refined, stylish wines with a soft expression and a subtle power. 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

(*) Source: https://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/bordeaux-wine-producer-profiles/bordeaux/pauillac/lynch-bages/ 

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LeDomduVin: Portrait, LeDomduVin & Château Latour Pauillac 2015

Ledomduvin & Château Latour 2015

In my previous post (a few days ago), "Portrait," I mentioned that the pictures were taken on my last day before turning 50. 

Well, here we go again. Tonight is my last day before turning 52 tomorrow. 

A colleague took this picture earlier tonight, just before serving this beautiful wine, Chateau Latour 2015, for a private dinner. The wine was succulent! 😋👍🍷🍷🍷

Although this particular decanter may convey a certain elegance, one cannot help but notice and even laugh at its phallic form. That was the only style available in the restaurant. It is a question of taste, and I'm not judging anything or anyone, but I must admit that the vision of such a decanter always sketches a smile on my face.  😉😁👍🍷 

Château Latour Pauillac 2015

Château Latour needs no introduction. It is one of the most outstanding wines from Pauillac and Bordeaux and is among the largest, with 96.5 hectares of vines. This includes "The Enclos," the 47-hectare walled vineyard surrounding the Chateau that was converted entirely to organic farming with the 2015 vintage, and roughly 50 hectares outside of "The Enclos."     

What makes it great is that the Grand Vin of Chateau Latour is made exclusively from “Vieilles Vignes, "which are, on average, 60 years old, from the best parcels of "The Enclos."  

The Enclos's core terroir consistently delivers the depth, elegance, and concentration expected from the Grand Vin. Here, the Cabernet Sauvignon, which makes up over 90% of the blend, reaches its best expression in terms of color, richness, and freshness. Chateau Latour's Grand Vin requires time and rewards those who have the patience to wait a decade or more to fully enjoy its potential.  

In exceptional vintages, the strength and vibrancy of Château Latour's wines allow them to develop effortlessly over several decades. The bouquet and impressions during tasting gradually evolve, becoming more complex until they peak, after which the tannins soften and the wine slowly tames down. Beyond the enjoyment of drinking them, these wines evoke powerful emotions and create unforgettable moments. This perfectly describes my experience with this magnificent 2015 vintage. 

Bought a few years ago from sound provenance and kept at an ideal temperature and humidity level in a Eurocave, the bottle was pristine, and the cork was in perfect condition. Due to its youth and as it was a bit shy on the nose, I decanted it (roughly 45 minutes before serving). I retasted it before serving it, and it had opened up nicely. 

Spawned from an exceptional vintage, Chateau Latour 2015 is a blend of roughly 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2.6% Merlot, and less than 1% Petit Verdot. In the glass, the wine displayed a dark garnet color. On the nose, after 45 minutes decanting, its shyness at opening gave way to warmer and complex aromas of dark fruits like blackberries and plums mingling with mocha, graphite, and floral notes. The palate showed richness, complexity, and power in a soft velvet glove way, with excellent balance and freshness. Its concentration expanded nicely from the attack to the lingering finish, coating the mouth with ripe dark fruits, woody, earthy, spicy notes, and mineral, umami, and salty nuances. The tannins were present yet perfectly integrated. What a magnificent wine! 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

Full post with tasting notes on my blog at www.ledomduvin.com (link in bio) 

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LeDomduVin: Some delightful wines! (part 2)

Some delightful wines (part 2)

I chose these 2 wines to pair with the food of a private dinner and, once again, was really pleased with my choice.

Champagne Henriot Cuvée Hemera Brut 2008

This was my first time trying Henriot Cuvee Hemera. I had heard of it before, but I had never had the chance to try it. 2008 is an excellent vintage in champagne, and I could not wait to try it. Loved it. 

A blend of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir from 6 different crus, roughly divided equally, Henriot Hemera 2008 boasts aromas of citrus and stone fruits mingling with toasted and mineral notes. The palate displays finesse, richness, and complexity, elegantly enhanced with freshness and zestiness. Focused, mineral, and earthy, the long finish immediately calls for another glass. Exquisite!

Château Pichon Baron Pauillac Bordeaux 2016

Pichon Baron was an obvious choice, as it is one of my favorite Pauillac. I had the chance to visit it many times during the En Primeur in the mid-2000s and even sleep at the chateau most of these times. 

Each visit and meeting with Christian Seely and Jean-Rene Matignon (and occasionally José Sanfins from Cantenac Brown) was a pleasurable learning experience, enhancing my love for this property and its wines. It was my first time trying the 2016 vintage. 

A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot, aged for 18 months in 80% new barrels and 20% barrels from one vintage, Pichon Baron 2016 is a generous, silky, dense, and harmonious wine. Its ripe dark and red fruit aromas combine with hints of oak, mocca, vanilla, and spices. It displays perfect balance, complexity, and a suave texture. Its chiselled structure is enhanced by lovely freshness and present yet integrated tannins. Rich, elegant, refined, and highly satisfying. Loved it. 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

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Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2025, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).

LeDomduVin: The dilemma surrounding the prices of well-known brands and their misleading wine scores.

The dilemma surrounding the prices of well-known brands and their misleading wine scores. 

I have already written quite extensively on this subject in previous posts on IG and my blog. However, after opening a few expensive bottles, like the two in the picture, a few days ago, I would like to reiterate my views and opinions on these topics.

First and foremost, history, notoriety, trends, brands, and scores may contribute to high prices, but they don’t always justify them and certainly don't justify the quality of a wine. Hear me out and read this post to the end before reacting.

People always tell me, “Oh, but this is DRC, Petrus, or Lafite, etc.… so it must be good!” And the answer is: “No!”

Stop trying to find arguments or excuses to convince yourself and others that wine is good when it is not.

And I can already hear you say, “Oh, but tasting is subjective… it is not because you don’t like it that everyone must not like it!”.

I agree, but when there is a consensus in the room or around the table, the wine is likely not to be that good, regardless of the brand, name, price, or scores.

Despite their history and notoriety, the continuous quality of their wines, the constant demand, and the price increase, even the greatest Chateaux, Domaines, Labels, and producers can make bad wines, especially in lesser years (which is reassuring in a way, as mother nature is not always clement - frost, rain, hail, heat waves, diseases, parasites, mold, etc... - therefore producers can only try to produce their best despite these conditions, yet it does not always work out).  

I mean, sorry to say, and no offense to anyone, but in my 33-year career as a Sommelier and Wine Buyer, I have opened countless bottles of some of the greatest wines in the world, especially those from Champagne, Bordeaux, and Burgundy, and I have not always been impressed, sometimes even really disappointed.

Why the disappointment? Well, when you pay over 500 Euros (HKD4,078 or USD524) for a bottle of wine from a renowned chateau, domaine, or producer that has received high scores (usually 95 and above), you expect it to be great or even excellent, or at least to live up to the hype surrounding its history, notoriety, price, and scores. Yet, this is not always the case.

Wine scores are a commonly used method of evaluating and classifying wine quality. The most common is the 100-point scale, used by renowned wine critics such as Robert Parker (The Wine Advocate), James Suckling, Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast, etc….

Critics evaluate wines on several criteria, including appearance, aroma, taste, texture, finish, and aging potential. Each reviewer may have their own preferences and weightings for these criteria. A score between 95-100 usually means: Exceptional, a wine of very high quality. 90-94: Excellent, a high-quality wine. And so on.

Scores (or even other scoring systems using stars, glasses, or qualitative descriptions rather than points) can significantly impact the reputation and price of wines. A high score from an influential critic can increase the demand and cost of a wine. Yet, it is essential to note that wine ratings are subjective and reflect the critic's personal tastes. What is considered an excellent wine by one critic may not please another.

Most people amongst connoisseurs and amateurs trust some of these critics’ scores or at least refer to Wine Searcher Average Score (which represents the average of several critic’s scores) or even to the public opinions and scores on sites like “Cellar Tracker” to diversify the sources of the information helping them to choose and buy wine, especially those they never tasted before (or not in a long time for the older vintages).

It is easy to fall into the trap of thinking, “It is a 95-pointer; it must be worth the price!” It is usually the case for lower- to medium-priced wines, as the higher the score and the lower the price, the better the wine. This is not always the case for high-priced wines, as the higher the price and score, the higher the expectations, which can hurt your heart, wallet, and, more significantly, your ego and trust if the wine doesn’t live up to these expectations. 

This is especially true for wine that received high scores in lesser years while showing some apparent flaws. The producer will not lower his/her price based on the quality of the wine simply because this or that wine critic gave it a high score.    

I have expressed this idea in several previous posts. Still, like for most wines of the "New World," I would love for Bordeaux and Burgundy producers to define the benchmark price of their wine (basically, what it is worth after including all charges and reasonable profits) and only see it fluctuate based on the quality of the vintage and the wine. For example, if a wine sells for 100 Euros in an average-to-good year, it would make sense to lower its price by 20-30% in lesser years and increase it by the same 20-30% in greater years. 

However, the reality is that, like anything in life, most Bordeaux and Burgundy wines tend to increase in price from one year to the next. Some of you might argue that this hasn’t been the case in recent years, which is true; for instance, Bordeaux prices fell by 15-30% or more for the 2023 vintage compared to 2022. The issue is that the En Primeur 2022 prices were based on the inflated price of the not-so-good 2021 vintage, which should not have been as high, especially following three excellent-to-good vintages (2018, 2019 & 2020), which were already priced highly after 2017, which was a poor vintage.     

As mentioned above, the other problem is when top wines still receive high scores in lesser years, which are not as good as in the better years. This can confuse consumers, as a 95-point (or above) wine should test great regardless of vintage quality. However, the mistake is that a 95-point in a lesser year is not the same as a 95-point in a great year, as it received a 95 for intrinsic quality based on the vintage quality rather than the wine quality per se.     

Put yourself in the shoes of a wine critic. Despite some rare exceptions, in a lesser year, most wines will not taste as good as in a good or even great year, which is perfectly obvious, understandable, and logical. And yet, some critics might give it the same score.  For example, Lafite Rothschild's 2017 and 2021 were not as good as 2018 and 2022, yet critics give them scores ranging between 95-97 for the former and 95-100 for the latter. However, despite somewhat similar scores, when tasted side by side, 2017 and 2021 are definitely not worth their scores or prices, especially compared to 2018 and 2022. (*)

And it happens too often, especially with big names, understandably, because people build up these expectations to the point of believing the wine will be flawless, causing an immense deception when tasing it, and it is not.

How many times have I tasted some really expensive wines in my career and told myself, “This wine is not that great and definitely not worthy of the price!” The answer is, “A lot!”— In fact, too many times for my taste.

It happened again a few days ago when I opened the two bottles in the pictures. Yet, it is worse this time, as the vintage was good. 

Billecart Salmon Le Clos Saint-Hilaire Champagne 1996

I had not tasted this Champagne for a while and did not know what to expect, as I could not exactly remember how it tasted the last time I tried it. However, I have always liked this particular Cuvée, “Le Clos Saint-Hilaire,” and was looking forward to trying it no matter what.

The cork was a bit resistant, and I had to use some force to twist it gently and pop it up silently. I thought it must have been well preserved and still full of bubbles (as this bottle had been stored in the cellar for nearly 4 years, and I bought it from good provenance). Yet, to my surprise, the bottom of the cork was tighter and dryer than a cork of that age is supposed to be, which indicated me that the champagne may have been affected in some ways.  

Nice, pale golden color in the glass with a limited amount of very fine bubbles (a typical sign of a slight evolution, and yet the state of the cork may have had something to do with it, too). At first, restraint and lightly oxidative on the nose with yeasty and nutty notes, the aromas developed rapidly with notes of honey, yellow fruit, citrus, and acacia flower.

I was surprised to realize that, despite its barely tastable fizziness, most bubbles were gone and that, at this point, this champagne was drinking more like a still wine than a sparkling wine. To my liking, it tasted somewhat like a Puligny-Monrachet for its freshness, minerality, and citrusy notes and a Meursault for its ample texture and complexity. Very dry and zesty mouthfeel and finish. Unusual but really pleasant and, in the end, not so unusual for a champagne of this age. Although 1996 seems like yesterday for a person my age, it was already 29 years ago…. I loved it and found its taste interesting. It's definitely not for everyone’s palate. I will say, only open it if you’re surrounded by people with an open mind when it comes to old champagne.

Château Lafite Rothschild Pauillac Bordeaux 2015

Now, this wine is the reason why I wanted to reiterate my views and opinions on the dilemma surrounding the prices of well-known brands and their misleading wine scores in this post.

Growing up in Bordeaux, the grandson of a winemaker, and acquainted with wines from an early age, Lafite-Rothschild has always been part of Bordeaux's patrimony and history. It has been revered as one of the world's and Bordeaux's most illustrious estates for decades. A reference for Bordeaux wines as one of the 4 grand crus classes in the Classification of 1855 (**).   

Yet, I never really adhere to its image and taste. Don't get me wrong: As a Sommelier and wine buyer, it is always a pleasure and a privilege to open and taste a bottle of Lafite Rothschild. However, although I have the utmost respect for this estate, the Eric de Rothschild family, and their wines, I have always found Lafite relatively dry, austere, tannic, earthy, and difficult to appreciate in its youth. 

In fact, despite recent efforts to produce more contemporary wines that are less shy, less earthy, and more approachable in their youth, I have always depicted Lafite Rothschild as an old, dusty, grumpy, dry, and austere aristocrat anchored in old traditions and a classicism belonging to a long-gone past.  

That said, traditions and classicism are Bordeaux's trademarks. For the past 100 years, its people, town, wines, estates, and whole wine region have greatly benefited (and still do) from its leading status as one of France's best and oldest wine regions, setting an example to the rest of the world.     

In fact, Bordeaux may not have lasted that long without these old aristocratic traditions and classicism, and Lafite Rothschild either, for that matter. So, it may not be that bad after all.  

However, despite opening countless vintages over the past 33 years, I have never been impressed by Lafite Rothschild's wines. And this 2015 vintage, once again, did not do it for me. 

Don't get me wrong, the wine was not that bad, but it was not worth the price of 515 Euros (average retail price HKD4,200 here in Hong Kong, or roughly USD540 if you prefer) and definitely not worth the range of 95-98 scores.  

Some of you may tell me (and I fully agree) that if not opened during its opening drinking windows, Lafite often goes through up-and-down phases, either opening or closing. So, I decided to open it, as Lafite usually takes about 10 years (8+ years in the bottle) to open up.       

The 2015 Lafite Rothschild is a blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Merlot. It is medium to deep garnet in color in the glass. At opening, I smelled the cork, as I like to do, and it did not smell much. In fact, the nose was somewhat restrained (as it usually is for most vintages I tasted). I smelled it in the glass, decanted it, and waited 5-10 minutes before smelling and tasting it again.

Gradually, the timid nose opened up. Despite being from a ripe and hot vintage, its perfume was rather fresh and nuanced. It offered light aromas of cherry and blackberries, mingling with mineral and earthy notes and hints of pencil shave.

What took me aback (when tasting it) was that it was super light-bodied, almost lacking substance and texture (IMO) for a first growth of such a pedigree and at such a high price. Its light structure and freshness were also surprising for such a ripe vintage. Some will call it “elegance,” others “finesse,” and I must say that its refined, silky, balanced, integrated palate and somewhat lingering finish were an agreeable experience, yet not memorable. And yet, I thought it would grow some muscles after 2 hours in the decanter, but it did not. It remained light and unpronounced.

As I thought it might have been my palate, I had my colleagues taste it that night, and we all agreed: It was not worth the price or the scores. We even tasted some slightly bitter green notes along with the savory notes in the finish. It was definitely not what I expected from a 2015 vintage and/or a first growth from Pauillac. 

On the one hand, kudos to the winemaker and team who prevented this vintage's exuberance and overripeness. On the other hand, I would have loved to taste a more substantial, more textured, and structured wine with a broader overall definition, especially at this price.

That's all, folks, for today!

The prices and scores of top wines are such recurring and engaging topics that I could write pages and pages about them. However, I do not want to bore you with too many details, numbers, and stats. Yet again, I may write a fuller post about it one day. But I will stop here for today.   

Let me know your thoughts in the comments and/or if you have experienced the same things.  

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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(*) This topic, prices, and scores for lesser vintages, is worth a full post, which I might write about in the near future.   

(**) In 1855, only 4 Chateaux were ranked first-growth, as Château Mouton Rothschild was only elevated from second-growth to first-growth in 1973, after decades of intense lobbying by its owner, Philippe de Rothschild.

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LeDomduVin: Château Mouton Rothschild 2015 and the wine-colored Phonograph

Château Mouton Rothschild 2015 

And the wine-colored Phonograph: 

A Harmony of Luxury and Tradition

Château Mouton Rothschild is an iconic Pauillac wine that embodies excellence. It is one of the most prestigious wineries in Bordeaux and the world.

Combined with this wine-colored phonograph, it creates an atmosphere of luxury and refinement, perfect for wine and music lovers.

Embellished by Gerhard Richter's colorful label, the 2015 vintage is particularly remarkable for its complexity and elegance.

A blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc, this wine offers intense aromas of black fruits, blackcurrant, and cherry, with subtle notes of chocolate and tobacco. The palate is rich and velvety, with present yet integrated tannins and a long, persistent finish. Love it.

I can't tell you when and where I took this picture, but I love this antic wine-colored phonograph (and the wine, too).

The phonograph, invented by Thomas Edison in 1877, is an iconic device that revolutionized music listening. It eventually led to the record players (or turntables) used in the mid-to-late 20th century, which have experienced a renaissance in the past decade.

The wine color adds a touch of sophistication and nostalgia to this old phonograph. Its elegant design and refined wine-colored finish perfectly complement the color of the Mouton Rothschild 2015 in the glass and on the capsule. Perfect pairing!

This bottle of Mouton Rothschild 2015 and this wine-colored phonograph form a perfect duo for lovers of luxury and tradition in wine and music.

This picture is an invitation to have a glass of wine while listening to music in a cozy, luxurious, and relaxed atmosphere!

My kind of ambiance!

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Latour 2005 vs Latour 2009

Latour 2005 vs Latour 2009

It is not every day that I open two bottles of the same Chateau in different vintages, especially one of my favorite First Growths.

Comparing two vintages of Chateau Latour, such as 2005 and 2009, is tricky as both have similarities. Yet, they are distinctively and intrinsically different.

Both were solar vintages with high temperatures and dry, hot growing seasons, which produced ripe, rich, layered, and concentrated wines.

These conditions could have resulted in high alcohol, unbalanced, or cooked wines.

Fortunately, some cool nights and enough rain at the right time provided juiciness, balance, and freshness while preventing drought and overripeness, resulting in wines combining complexity and depth with great aging potential.

Ultimately, 2005 was an excellent vintage that produced some fantastic wines, while 2009 is considered a legendary vintage that produced stellar wines.

This might explain the 200+ Euro price difference between the two. On Wine Searcher, Chateau Latour 2005 starts at around 680 Euros, and Latour 2009 starts at around 870 Euros, and it shows in the glass.

Although both displayed a dark color, undoubtedly due to their age difference, the aspect of the 2005 seemed lighter, more medium-deep ruby color with slightly more advanced nuances, while the 2009 was of a darker ruby red with some purple touch.

The difference between the two wines was quite significant on the nose. The 2005 was soft, gentle, discreet, and sophisticated. It displayed attractive aromas of red and dark berries, cassis, graphite, coffee, and licorice, with earthy, spicy, and floral hints. On the other hand, the 2009 was bold, powerful, and confident. It boasted dark berries, blackberries, and mocha aromas, with hints of toasted oak and chocolate.

These differences appeared even more evident on the palate. Although complex, balanced, sophisticated, and finely chiseled, the 2005 seemed lighter and dryer than the 2009, which was rich, opulent, juicy, and chewy. It had plenty of dark ripe fruits, excellent balance, and concentration, expanding nicely to the lingering finish.

I loved them both despite their differences, yet I found the 2009 more pleasurable to my palate. My advice: don’t open and drink them side by side, as it might alter your opinion about the 2005, which is also a superb wine yet slightly less expressive than its younger sibling.

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Blind tasting of Chateau Latour 1995 - A beautiful surprise!

Blind tasting of Château Latour 1995 

A beautiful surprise! 

Last night, I was challenged to do a blind tasting to find this wine. 

While I was taking care of a private dinner in one of the Salons of the company's Private club, my colleague Sommelier, Leo, brought me a glass of wine from the party he was taking care of. 

He said: "You have to guess what it is."

I have always loved blind-tasting, as it challenges your senses, taste buds, brain, memory, skills, knowledge, ego, and reputation.

A good Sommelier always proceeds by elimination, making educated guesses based on his/her knowledge, experience, and skills to define the region, the grape variety(ies), the vintage, the appellation, and, if really good, even the name of the Cru, the name of the Chateau/Domaine/Estate, and/or the owner or winemaker's name. 

So, I took the glass and proceeded to a thorough examination. 

1. Aspect/Color: I always look at the aspect and color first to define the age. Medium garnet color with orange brick reflects on the rime and many sediments. It was too advanced to be in the 2000s, yet it was not old enough to be in the 80s.

It had to be in the 90s.

2. Nose/aromas: Beautiful yet subtle and delicate nose, with aromas of dark berries, cassis, licorice, sandalwood, with marked earthy notes of forest floor and light truffle, some discreet floral hints.

Bordeaux immediately came to mind. It was pretty obvious on the nose already. A good vintage for sure: not 90, maybe 95, 96, or 98.

3. Taste: I was startled by how good this wine was. Sophisticated, layered, complex, and generous yet in a very refined, subtle, elegant, and classy style. Very focused and perfectly integrated with no roughness, excellent balance, seamless finish, and refreshing acidity. This wine was not about weight like some of these super-extracted powerhouses. It was all about elegance, sophistication, and subtlety.

Such a well-crafted wine could only be one of the Top Bordeaux. Due to its refreshing acidity, I was thinking about 96.

Leo was looking at me with eyes showing he was kind of impressed I immediately guessed it was in the 1990s. While he didn't agree or disagree, I knew I was right. My guts and experiences rarely failed me. 

4. Region/Appellation: Left bank or right bank? That is the question.

Left Bank: Haut-Medoc, for sure. One of the Top appellations, but which one? The wine was not dry and austere enough to be a Saint-Estephe. Too serious and aristocratic to be a Saint-Julien. Too rich and complex to be a Margaux. In fact, the nose and palate resembled more of a Pauillac. Could it be? Definitely possible...

And yet, the earthiness and slight hint of truffle reminded me somewhat of something between a Saint-Emilion and a Pomerol. A "Saint-Pomerol," joked Leo. I like this amusing analogy. 😁👍🍷

Right Bank: Why not? Maybe? Due to the wine's quality and characteristics, it could be a Saint-Emilion or a light Pomerol. 

5. The grape(s): The wine was quite round, soft, and integrated, so it felt more like a Merlot-based wine than a Cabernet-based wine. Its silky texture reminded me of some wines from Cheval-Blanc, but without the tannins of the Cabernet Franc. 

Due to its earthiness and complexity, I opted for Pomerol. If correct, it had to be one of the Top: Petrus, Le Pin, Lafleur, Vieux Chateau Certan, La Conseillante, Trotanoy, L'Evangile, La Fleur-Petrus ... etc... 

Yet, if it was based on Cabernet Sauvignon, then it could only be one of the first growths. 

Difficult to tell. My mind was thinking Pomerol, but my taste buds were telling me to stick with the Left Bank, a Saint-Julien maybe, but more probably a Pauillac due to its complexity, layered structure, and sophisticated overall texture and mouthfeel. A high pedigree, no doubt. 

This blind tasting was harder than I thought it would be. And yet, I was happy as my senses, taste buds, knowledge, and skills were not so rusty after all. It was an exciting challenge. 

More especially, Leo was trying to lead me down the wrong path while I reflected and thought aloud. 

Seeing that I may have reached a conclusion,  Leo finally said: "So, what do you think?"

I answered: "Definitely a Bordeaux. Vintage... I will say 1996 due to its freshness and juiciness and because it does not show any of the ripe or even jammy characteristics of a hot or solar vintage. Probably Merlot-based due to its softness and medium color. Maybe a Pomerol due to its earthiness and a slight hint of truffle, reminding me of a Vieux Château Certan I tried (I am a huge fan of VCC). I will say Petrus or Vieux Chateau Certan 1996."

Yet, that said, my taste buds and my heart continued to tell me that I should have stuck with my first choice of the Left bank. 

He replied: "Very interesting, but it is a Pauillac and a 1995 vintage. In terms of the quality, you are correct, it is a Top Wine, it is one of the first growths." 

(Dang! I knew I should have stuck to my first impression... )

My mind was racing: "It is too polished and silky to be Lafite Rothschild. Too consistent and focused to be Mouton-Rothschild. Too rich and complex to be Margaux. Not characteristics enough to be Haut-Brion. And yet, normally, Latour is a much heavier and stronger wine. More especially in a hot/solar vintage like 1995. How could it be?" 

I was puzzled and startled at the same time... 

Leo disappeared and came back with the empty bottle and another glass containing a small amount of it so that I could enjoy it again. I was ecstatic. 

What an incredible wine and such a beautiful surprise! 

It was a real challenge for me as the wine presented characteristics that, in my opinion, resembled more of 1996 than 1995. Also, the angularities usually found in Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines (e.g., heavy structure and texture, solid tannins, and even astringency, etc...) had all disappeared and integrated over time. The wine has such a medium color, a light structure, and a silky, gentle, elegant texture, and it was so fresh and juicy, so youthful, too; I thought it was from a cooler vintage, with higher acidity and less concentration. Yet, I was wrong. 

Not completely wrong as I guessed the region and decade, but still wrong, as I could not have guessed the appellation of Pauillac, even if my guts and taste buds told me that it could be it in the first place.

Lesson learned: one should always trust his/her first impression and gut feeling.  

Moreover, I couldn't even have guessed the Chateau, as I would have never imagined that Chateau Latour, which is usually such a strong, rich, opulent, complex, and generous wine, could become such a refined, elegant, racy, and subtle wine, overtime, 29 years later. 

However, this bottle of Chateau Latour 1995 was absolutely stunning and a great example of the striking wine quality only this Chateau is capable of in Pauillac. 

I recommend you to try it if you have the opportunity one day. 

Once again, it proved that blind tasting is hard and that even the best of us can have a tough time guessing when we are tricked and steered wrongly by some preconceived ideas and past experiences. 

This blind-tasting exercise was humbling, as even a knowledgeable, experienced, and skilled Sommelier and Wine Buyer like me, with a 33-year career in the wine industry and a highly trained palate, opening and tasting top-tier Bordeaux and Burgundy wines regularly can have a hard time guessing. 

Thank you, and kudos to Frédéric Engerer and his team at Château Latour. This is a magnificent wine! 

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Château Pontet Canet Pauillac 2010

Château Pontet Canet Pauillac 2010

Pontet Canet has always been one of my go-to wines — a classic Pauillac!

I first visited Pontet Canet in the late 1990s and every year during the En Primeurs between 2002 and 2007. It has always been a pleasure to see Mr. Alfred Tesseron and his niece Melanie (who joined in 2005).

Unfortunately, I never had the chance to return to the chateau after that, but I never stopped buying, selling, opening, tasting, and serving its wines.

I look forward to revisiting Pontet Canet during one of my upcoming trips to my hometown of Bordeaux. See what changes Justine Tesseron, Alfred's daughter and the General Director of the Chateau since 2015, and her brother Noé have made since then.

I have opened quite a few Pontet Canet 2010 these past 2 years, and I like this wine.

I opened these 2 bottles this weekend, and they show delightfully.

Château Pontet Canet Pauillac 2010

In the glass, it displays a clean, clear, and attractive grenat color of medium intensity. The nose is very expressive and gains complexity as you swirl the wine. It boasts dark fruits, cassis and blackberries, violet, licorice, and mocha, mingling with floral, spicy, peppery, earthy notes and slightly toasted, oaky nuances. The palate is fruity, generous, ample, textured, and dark and expands quite nicely toward the long, earthy finish.

I enjoyed it a lot but felt it was still a bit young and angular, a little edgy. I would have loved for it to be more homogenous and integrated. The acidity brings good freshness to the dark fruits and the earthiness of the finish.

Yet, although the tannins are fine, they seem a bit astringent and may need some time to mellow down. I highly recommend decanting it for about an hour before serving it.

Besides being a Classic Pauillac, Pontet Canet is a great value for money. Classified as a Fifth growth in 1855, it produces gorgeous wines that often rival Second growths and outrank its peers.


Cheers! Santé!

Dom


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LeDomduVin: Chateau Latour Pauillac 2015

Château Latour Pauillac 2015

I recently opened a few bottles of this particular wine for 2 different dinners, and it showed wonderfully after about 2 hours of decanting. Still young, with some present yet integrated tannins that will need a bit more time to mellow down. Beyond its attractive aromas of red and dark cherries and berries mixed with notes of licorice, coffee, and leather mingling with earthy and oaky nuances, it boasts an impressive complexity, structure, and texture. The palate is rich, opulent, and layered, expanding nicely till the lingering finish. Although really approachable now, it deserves a few more years of cellaring to fully express itself and its full potential. Looooooooooove it.

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Chateau Lafite Rothschild 1978

Someone said Lafite Rothschild 1978?

The other day, I served wine in one of @thelegacyhousehk's luxury private dining rooms.

The pantry had two doors: one leading to the room where I was serving wine and a second to another private room.

The second door opened while I was in the pantry, and I could see people arriving for dinner in the other room.

The host put a bag on the dining room island and took out these six bottles.

Even if I had nothing to do with this party and was not even going to serve the wine for them (I mean, I do not work there; I just came to serve wine for a private dinner), I was intrigued when I saw the labels and could not help myself uttering in an admirative voice, "You've brought some great wines!"

As he looked at me and glanced at the golden grape pin on my jacket, I asked the host if I could enter his room to examine the bottles more closely and even take a picture of them.

He agreed and even told me that I could taste the wine. I said I would love to and thanked him profusely.

I thought from afar that they were different. Yet, they were all 1978 vintage.

The house Sommelier opened the bottles and later brought me a glass, telling me he found some bottle variations.

Although the 1978 vintage was good overall, especially compared to the rest of the 1970s, bottle variations are unsurprising, in my opinion, as these bottles seem to have different provenance, and most 1978 Bordeaux (in general) started to fade and slowly lose their fruit two decades ago already.

Chateau Lafite Rothschild Pauillac 1978

The wine displayed a dull, cloudy, light brownish color. On the nose, it boasted autumnal tertiary aromas of leather, tobacco, coffee, underbrush, and pencil shavings, mingling with earthy and light oaky nuances. The palate was still alive and kicking, relatively consistent, with good fruit and acidity and a reasonably long finish. Surprisingly, it was still pretty good. Old but not finished.

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: 3 better than 2...

3 better than 2…

For certain things in life, it is said, “One is not enough, and three is too many!” 😉😄😅

However, 3 bottles may not be enough when it comes to wine.

Cheval Blanc Saint Emilion 2018

A blend of 54% Merlot, 40% Cab Franc, and 6% Cab Sauv, lovely scents emanate at the opening, filling the air with ripe red and black berries aromas, complemented with floral, autumnal, and tobacco notes. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is rich, ample, graceful, generous, and layered, with ripe fruit and silky texture. The present but integrated tannins provide excellent structure. It expands nicely from the attack to the long finish. Its welcomed freshness and seamless profile help to compensate for its ripeness and 14.5% alcohol. Complex, elegant, charming, and already enjoyable now, it will reward those who wait for it a little.

Mouton Rothschild Pauillac 2016

Served after the fuller and richer Cheval Blanc 2018, Mouton 2016 appeared relatively flat and inexpressive. Was it its regular 13.5% alcohol, compared to the overwhelming 14.5% of the Saint Emilion? It showed better after a while, boasting dark berries aromas mixed with floral and herbal scents and forest floor, earthy nuances. A blend of 83% Cab Sauv, 15% Merlot, 1% Cab Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot, this is an elegant, vibrant, fresh, medium-bodied, and earthy wine with a delicate and aromatic profile, a lovely mineral, silky texture, and a good (if light) overall structure. Still, it lacks length on the finish, as it vanishes too quickly for such a good vintage and pedigree. Will it develop? Time will tell!  

Vieux Chateau Certan Pomerol 2016

A blend of 85% Merlot, 14% Cab Sauv, and 1% Cab Franc, VCC 2016 is a beautiful wine. Boasting attractive crushed red berries, licorice, graphite, and mineral aromas with gentle earthy and oaky nuances. The palate combines elegance, richness, complexity, ripeness, freshness, texture, and structure, framed by chewable tannins, providing excellent substance and subsistence, greatly expanding from the lovely attack to the long finish. It is focused, profound, complex, layered, and sophisticated; with this tastefully enjoyable impression, you could masticate it like one of your favorite steak cuts. I love the chewiness of this wine. Then again, VCC is one of my favorite wines ever! 

Cheers! Santé!

Dom  

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LeDomduVin: Bigger and taller bottles don’t always have the biggest corks!

Size does matter… 

but bigger and taller bottles don’t always have the biggest corks! 😉😄🤣👍🍷

Sorry, I couldn’t resist. That’s the first thing that came to my mind when I served these bottles the other day, and put their corks side by side. 😉😄🤣

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom 

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