Showing posts with label Wine Tasting. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Wine Tasting. Show all posts

Wednesday, September 4, 2019

AIWC - Asia International Wine Competition


AIWC - Asia International Wine Competition




AIWC - Asia International Wine Competition - Logo


Last Sunday, I had the opportunity to participate, as one of the Wine Judges, in the AIWC 2019 (Asia International Wine Competition), held in Hong Kong. 

I had the chance to participate back in 2017 and 2018, and once again, Adam Levy (the creator of AIWC) and Beth Dorrough (Adam's "right arm" and co-organiser of the AIWC) kindly invited me to participate in the event this year too.



Royce Cellar in Tsim Sha Tsui (Kowloon) Hong Kong
©LeDomduVin2019 (storefront)



The event was held at Royce Cellar in Tsim Sha Tsui (Kowloon), in Hong Kong. A modern wine boutique store and wine bar, where customers can browse a very eclectic selection from the Old World and the New, including some of the most prestigious Chateaux from Bordeaux as well as some of the iconic Domaines and Producers of Burgundy, Rhone and Champagne, mingling with some of the top wineries of Australia, New Zealand, USA and beyond.



Royce Cellar in Tsim Sha Tsui (Kowloon) Hong Kong
©LeDomduVin2019 (inside)



From what I could see on their shelves and wine fridges, they can accommodate any customer's needs, offering a wide range of wines (white, red, rosé, sparkling, sweet, fortified) and even some spirits, as well as Saké, at both ends of the price spectrum and in various formats too.



Royce Cellar in Tsim Sha Tsui (Kowloon) Hong Kong
©LeDomduVin2019 (shelves)



The old Sommelier and ex-wine-boutique-store manager in me were very pleased to see such an enticing display of great wines in such a modern, yet comfortable, bright and inviting environment. The bar at the back end of the store and the private salon at the basement floor create a cosy atmosphere, which further enhances the visual experience.      



Royce Cellar in Tsim Sha Tsui (Kowloon) Hong Kong
©LeDomduVin2019 (the bar)



Although the competition started at 10am, I arrived about half an hour early, as I like to do, (in case they needed help and could make myself useful), only to discover that the store was already full of people. And that's when I realized that not only wines but also beers and spirits will be tasted that day. Amongst the people were the store's staffs of course, but also some helping-hands to assist and aid the AIWC team with the preparation of the bottles and glasses for the tastings, and of course, the judges, all veteran specialists in their own field (wine, beer and spirits), from different horizons and backgrounds.

A welcoming copious breakfast of Viennoiseries and mini-sandwiches, as well as coffee and tea, had been set up for those of us who might want to have a bite and something to drink prior getting started with the competition's tastings. And, although, I need to admit that, usually, I prefer not to eat or drink prior to a tasting as it normally decreases the sensitivity of my tastebuds, (tastebuds being fully functional and more sensitive in the morning, usually around 10-11am, especially when starving due to lack of food or liquid for a few hours), I could not resist the temptation to discreetly devour some of these goodies... too appetizing!!!



AIWC's Adam Levy giving the wine judges
a quick briefing prior to starting the tasting
Royce Cellar basement room ©LeDomduVin 2019



Once sated, Adam and Beth invited us to go to the room at the basement (where the wines will be tasted, while beers and spirits will be tasted upstairs within the store and at the bar on the ground floor), to have a quick briefing on the process and the rules of the competition, prior to starting the tasting.     


The AIWC is a truly interesting and eyes-opening wine competition where wines are basically tasted blind and judged based on their Quality-Price-Ratio (or QPR as commonly referred to in the wine trade). QPR is basically a conceptual measure of the perceived value of a wine, in this particular case, the judge's opinion of the wine's quality weighed against its price.

So basically, you have to put yourself in the shoes of a wine buyer, (i.e. one of your customers or clients or even yourself), and with your wine tasting skills and experience as well as your knowledge of the market and its eventual changing trends, decide whether the wine is good or not based on its quality-price-ratio and, at the end of the day, your willingness to buy it. 

In short, is the wine worth the price you will pay for it? And will you buy it?

The answer often falls into 4 main categories:

  • Good (or occasionally geat) value for money, I'll definitely buy this wine at this price... 
  • Hum... Not bad, I could definitely see myself sipping on that wine occasionally at this price...
  • Hem... This wine is ok (occasionally good), but not at this price... no thanks... 
  • Yuck... This wine is outrageous... Next!



The QPR Dilemma - Quality-Price-Ratio
by ©LeDomduVin 2019



To prevent from any biased answers, the wines are tasted by a minimum of 2 judges and brought in front of the judges by flights of 3-10 glasses of wine of the same grape variety (i.e. all Pinot Noir in the same flight), some from the same origin, but not always, usually coming from different regions or even countries (i.e. Pinot Noir from New Zealand and Oregon in the same flight), and not from the same vintage either. Yet, it also happens that some wines in the same flight may not be from the same grape variety either...

So, how can you judge them, will you say?

Well, the answer to that question is quite simple:

Each wine must be tasted for what it is and worth what you're willing to pay for it!!!



QPR = Quality vs Price by ©LeDomduvin 2019




Let me clarify by giving you the AIWC rules (*) as explained by Adam (you can also check the AIWC website here for more details on the rules)


  • AIWC (Asia International Wine Competition) medals are awarded on a merit basis by a majority vote. 
  • The judges are instructed to grant no awards or medals when, in their opinion, the wines are not ones they would import, distribute, buy or sell in their businesses based on product and price category. 
  • Judges are asked to evaluate the wines in silence until all panel members have finished their evaluation and then open a discussion to reach a consensus. 
  • Judge votes are recorded by an AIWC staff moderator. If there is a significant difference among the judges’ votes, panellists are encouraged to reach a consensus and, if needed, seek counsel from the Head Judge Adam Levy. 
  • Award levels are Double Gold, Gold, Silver, and Bronze. 
  • Double Gold: Phenomenal Product (Must be a unanimous decision by panellists) 
  • Gold: Buyers “Love” It 
  • Silver: Buyers “Like” It 
  • Bronze: Buyers would purchase it 
  • Double Gold award winners will be re-tasted by all panellists to establish which brands may be eligible to receive a ‘Best of Category’ endorsement in its pricing category

I think now you have a better understanding and a clearer idea of how this competition is conducted. 😊



So, now, let get on with the tasting, shall we?



Leigh-Ann Luckett, Director of Operations
at Madison Fine Wine Auction (MFWA) ©LeDomduVin 2019



After the quick briefing, they divided us into two panels of judges. Seating at one of the judge's tables, I was joined by my "partner-in-crime" for that day, Leigh-Ann Luckett, Director of Operations at Madison Fine Wine Auction (MFWA). Leigh-Ann also participated as a wine judge at the AIWC previously, so we were acquainted already and somewhat knew each other personality and palate, which immediately set a relaxed atmosphere for both of us. Understandably, it is easier to taste and reach a consensus with someone you know, appreciate and feel comfortable with, than with someone you don't. We were the panel number 2.



AIWC Asia International Wine Competition Tasting Session
©LeDomduVin 2019



While we were catching up on things since we last met, I glanced at the table set up with the usual suspects, the unavoidable tasting tools: a spittoon, a bottle of water, an empty glass for the water and a stack of tasting sheets on which the judges will be writing their notes and comments and eventual awards.

As this is a blind tasting, the tasting sheets bare nothing but a few numbers (Wine number, Wine ID and Wine Price), with only an indication on the type of wine mentioning the grape variety that will be tasted per flight (see below an example of AIWC tasting sheet **).





The first flight arrived on the table, the competition could start. Like in any wine tastings, the judges taste the wines, write their comments and establish, on their own, first, if the wine is worth an award or not. Leigh-Ann and I have rather similar palates and thus similar thoughts and tasting sensations, which eased the process to reach a consensus on the QPR of the wines and eventually led us to give some awards. 

Immediately as the flight arrives on the table, an AIWC moderator confirms the details already stated on the tasting sheet (flight number, grape variety, region or country of origin), and, also,  if a wine is missing, as it happens that, although originally planned to be tasted, some wines might be faulty, corked or oxidized, and therefore have been removed right before the tasting (thus after the tasting sheets were printed).   

The AIWC moderator also provides the vintages of the wines about to be tasted. It allows the judges to have a better idea on how to approach the wine, to process to the sensory examination and evaluation, in order to assess it's quality-price-ratio (QPR).

For example, if the moderator says "the first two wines of the flight are both Australian Cabernet Sauvignon from 2016 vintage", then the wine judge's mindset will be focusing on these particular details as he/she tastes and assesses the wine, by, carefully and methodically, examining the sensory qualities (visual aspect, aromas, texture and flavors). And if the moderator also provides the region of origin (i.e. Margaret river), then it is an extra bonus clue for the judges, who will further refine the focus of their mindset to taste, examine and evaluate the wine.



Sensory Examination & Evaluation of Wine
Graphic by ©LeDomduVin 2019



In most case scenarios, the mindset of a wine taster proceeding to the sensory examination and evaluation of wine during a tasting (a person's internal way of thinking and his/her primary opinions while tasting in silence first, prior to expressing his/her comments to others) works in the order indicated in the graphic above (clockwise):

If we take the example above, a 2016 vintage, Cabernet Sauvignon from Margaret River, Australia, then here is how and what the wine taster is thinking going through these 4 main steps, prior to finalize his/her sensory examination and evaluation of the wine.

1. Origin
  • Country: Australia - The wine taster is thinking: New World - Ripe Fruit - Bold Taste
  • Region: Margaret River - Western Australia - Thinking: Renown for its fine Cabernet Sauvignons - Classic
  • Climate: Warm, temperate, and although referenced as a Mediterranean climate, it is, in fact, more Bordeaux-like - Thinking: cooler climate than Southern Australia, therefore more freshness and elegance than Barossa (for example)
2. Wine Type / Grape Variety
  • Cabernet Sauvignon - grown in Margaret River - usual characteristics: red wine, medium to full-bodied, rich in flavors and quite complex, with a good tannic structure and good acidity too, yet more rounded and lighter on its feet (less heavy) than it's Barossa counterparts (for example) (Leeuwin Estate Cab is my personal reference and preference) 
3. Vintage

  • 2016.... in Margaret River for Cabernet Sauvignon... Well, hem... I'm a bit stuck here... help?!? And that's generally the main problem of most wine tasters during wine tastings, as, you may have very good overall knowledge about the region of origin, the climate, the terroir, type of wine and the grape variety, but you may lack the info about the vintage, more especially if you only have notions and never really read anything about it. Meaning that, personally, ask me about Bordeaux or Burgundy, and I will tell you everything I know about the vintage's specifics and variations of and within these two regions; yet, ask me about Margaret River vintages and, like in a cartoon during an awkward moment, you'll probably will hear the sound of an eagle flying in the sky (a red-tailed hawk actually, watch the reason why here 😉😁).    
  • So, I just read a few articles about the 2016 vintage in Margaret River, and, unfortunately, it was a difficult one (and it does not mean that all Margaret River wines in that specific vintage are bad by the way, some are surprisingly good...) Read what James Halliday says about it here (and in case you do not know who James Halliday is, do me a favor and get yourself educated here)  

4. Taste

So, with a mindset on the country, region and grape variety, and no clue about the quality of the vintage, the time has come to taste the wines. The judges of the panel have two ways to do it,

  • either by tasting and comment on the wines, one by one, tasting the first wine (in silence), writing their comments on the tasting sheet first, then consult the other judges of the panel for their comments, evaluate the QPR (i.e. Is it worth it at that price?) and reach a consensus to attribute an award (or not), then do the same for the 2nd wine, and so on 
  • or, by tasting all of the wines of the flight at once, and write their comments on the tasting sheet first, then talk about all the wines at once, and evaluate their QPR by comparing them (i.e. This wine is a much better buy at this price than the other one and deserves bronze? silver? gold? or double gold?), then reach a consensus to attribute an award (or not)
Leigh-Ann and I chose the first way, as it is somewhat easier to taste each wine individually and taste them for what they are, rather than comparing them as, in my opinion, it could influence your judgement on the quality of the wine and you may lower your rating or downgrade the award, or not give any award based on these differences, which, in my opinion, isn't fair.

Don't get me wrong, we eventually end up also comparing them a little at the end, even with the first way, of course, no choice, but I truly believe that we are less influenced when the wines are tasted individually.       

Meaning that, for example, if you taste an average Pinot Noir at $20 and compare it to a very good Pinot Noir at $35, you might be tempted to give no award for the one at $20 and give silver or gold to the one at $35. While, if you taste them individually, you might consider that the one at $20 is not that average (after all) within this kind of price range, and although the one at $35 is very good, it is kind of expensive and at the end of the day not necessarily worth paying $35 (it is all debatable, but this is just an example, after I let you judge the way you think is better 😊).

Basically, what I'm trying to say is that, in this type of competition where wines are tasted blind, it is better (in my opinion) to taste them individually to determine their QPR and evaluate what they really worth, rather than comparing them. 

Not sure if we were too strict, but Leigh-Ann and I did not give many awards, needless to say not much gold, and only one double gold. But that said when you reach our level of wine-buying experience, your palate pays more attention to the obvious flaws of the wines, and often become less tolerant, more uncompromising towards these flaws.

Flaws that are too often accepted, at a lesser professional level by the "wannabe-wine-professional-hipsters" and other "supposedly-posh-wine-connoisseurs", like being a distinct part of the character of the wines. Like excuses to convince themselves that the wine is good when actually it isn't, ring the bell?



Wine Hipster vs Connoisseur by ©LeDomduVin 2019




- "The horse manure and other faeces notes of this natural wine make it so enticing",
- "Well, what? Are you kidding? This wine smells like shit...?!?"
- "Yes, but it is a specific kind of shit, I can smell like... and some... and a hint of...."
- "Ok, spare me the details, this wine smells like shit and is probably bad, but obviously I can't convince you otherwise...(sigh)... Are you always that Hip with wines?"

Basically, the more experienced and professional you are, the more sharpened are your senses, and thus you'll end up being more restrictive on giving accolades and awards, and more difficult to please as with experience, especially when judging wines, flaws are not a "je ne sais quoi" which enhance the character of the wine, they are flaws! Full stop. 


Going back to the competition tasting, once done with these 4 steps, the judges can now discuss with each other and exchange their opinions on the quality of the wine and together assess the QPR of the wine based on its price. As, as the graph above clearly suggests it, no matter how good the wine is or how much you like it, or not, everything revolves around the price! As, in the end, what really matters is the price and your willingness to paying that price or not!

And, for most of the wines presented at the competition, the tasting conclusion ends up being (most of the time): "I like the wine, but not at that price... too expensive, and better wines are available in this price range or lower... I'll rather buy something else!". 

Yet, and fortunately, some of these wines received some awards as a reward for their intrinsic qualities, and more especially for their quality-price-ratio (QPR) for being exceptionally good values for money in their respective category (region, grape variety, wine type) and price range.

Once finished, the tasting sheets of all the judges/panels are collected by the AIWC team, which, in turn, compare the judge's notes, then verify and confirm the awards, which are available on AIWC website. (***) 

What a great day! And what a great competition to participate in, too. Thanks again to Adam Levy (the creator of AIWC) and Beth Dorrough (Adam's "right arm" and co-organiser of the AIWC) for inviting to participate for the 3rd year in a row. Thanks to Leigh-Ann Luckett for being my "partner-in-crime" for that day. A great experience! Highly recommended.




Adam Levy (creator/founder of the AIWC Asia International Wine Competition)
and Dominique Noel (a.k.a LeDomduVin) in Royce Cellar (TST)
©LeDomduVin 2019



Well, wait a minute, that's it, finished? and you didn't eat?!? (will you say...)

But of course, we did. Adam and Beth are taking very good care of their judges. We took a break to go to a nearby Chinese restaurant, called Tai Woo Restaurant (TST) (****), which was actually really good I must say. All the judges (wine, beer and spirits) sat together, which called for interesting subjects convivially discussed while enjoying dumplings and other Hong Kongese and Chinese delights paired with some of the gold and double gold awarded wines and beers from the morning session. 



Adam Levy and some of the AIWC team and judges
at Tai Woo Restaurant (TST) ©LeDomduVin 2019



Beth Dorrough and some of the AIWC team and judges
at Tai Woo Restaurant (TST) ©LeDomduVin 2019


Beth Dorrough and some of the AIWC team and judges
at Tai Woo Restaurant (TST) ©LeDomduVin 2019 (2)



Some of the AIWC team and judges
at Tai Woo Restaurant (TST) ©LeDomduVin 2019 (1)
 


Some of the AIWC team and judges
at Tai Woo Restaurant (TST) ©LeDomduVin 2019 (2)


Love Craft beer (tasted at the AIWC competition)
at Tai Woo Restaurant (TST) ©LeDomduVin 2019



Pasteur Street Brewing Company Passion Fruit
Wheat Beer (tasted at the AIWC competition)
at Tai Woo Restaurant (TST)
©LeDomduVin 2019



Master Gao Lunar Eclipse
British Style Imperial Stout Beer
(tasted at the AIWC competition)
at Tai Woo Restaurant (TST)
©LeDomduVin 2019



Some of the food, wines, beers and spirits
(tasted at the AIWC competition)
at Tai Woo Restaurant (TST)
©LeDomduVin 2019


Kevin O’Leary 2017
Pinot Noir Reserve Series
(tasted at the AIWC competition)
at Tai Woo Restaurant (TST)
©LeDomduVin 2019


What a great lunch! Good food, good company, good wines, beers and even some spirits, good atmosphere, what else to ask?

I would like to apologize to all the people in the pictures above and below for not mentioning all your names, first because we met for the first time that day and I'm very bad for remembering people names on the first day, and secondly because you were far too many for me to remember all of them. (*****)

After lunch, we went back to Royce Cellar to finish the afternoon session of the competition. Once finished and our testing sheets given back to AIWC team, we were authorised to enter the room with the samples to see the wines we tasted that day...



  
Wine Samples tasted at the AIWC 2019  (1)
©LeDomduVin 2019


Wine Samples tasted at the AIWC 2019  (2)
©LeDomduVin 2019


Wine Samples tasted at the AIWC 2019 (3)
©LeDomduVin 2019


Wine Samples tasted at the AIWC 2019 (4)
©LeDomduVin 2019


Wine Samples tasted at the AIWC 2019 (4)
©LeDomduVin 2019


Judges at AIWC 2019
and a happy couple about to get married soon (1)
©LeDomduVin 2019 




Judges at AIWC 2019
and a happy couple about to get married soon (2)
©LeDomduVin 2019


Judges at AIWC 2019
and colleagues in the real-life
©LeDomduVin 2019


Judges at AIWC 2019 in deep thoughts ;-)
tasting some of the samples afterwards
©LeDomduVin 2019


AIWC 2019 - The team and the Panel of Judges for Wine, Beer and Spirits
behind the bar at Royce Cellar (TST) ©LeDomduVin 2019



AIWC 2019 - The team and the Panel of Judges for Wine, Beer and Spirits
behind the bar at Royce Cellar (TST) ©LeDomduVin 2019 (black teeth smile)


I'm finishing this post on a high and happy note with these pictures of the joyful and smiley people who constituted the team and the judges for the wine, beer and spirits tasted that day for (respectively) the AIWC (Asia International Wine Competition), the AIBC (Asia International Beer Competition) and the AISC (Asia International Spirits Competition).

Talented and seasoned people, all expert in their own field, respectively wine, beer and spirits, for whom I have much respect. I really hope to see you all next year, if once again Adam Levy and Beth Dorrough kindly invite me to participate in the competition, which I will do with great interest and enthusiasm.

Thank you,


That's All Folks! for today, but stay tuned for more post like this one coming soon.

Santé! Cheers!

Dominique Noel (a.k.a. LeDomduVin)



(*) Rules fully or partly taken from the briefing as well as from the AIWC website here

(**) This AIWC tasting sheet example was created for the purpose of this post only and all original design of AIWC tasting sheets copyrights belong to AIWC (this is just a gimmick of the tasting sheet we had during the tasting used as a visual to complete the paragraph above the picture. 

(***) If interested you can find out which wines received the awards for the 2019 Competition on the AIWC website here

(****) The restaurant we went to for lunch is called "Tai Woo" Restaurant, located at 14-16 Hillwood Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon. Find more about it on their website here

(*****) If you recognize yourself in any of the pictures, please email me and I will add your name to the corresponding picture. (or remove the picture if you prefer...) Thank you 😅



More about AIWC - Asia international Wine Competition at  https://asiainternationalwinecompetition.com/

More about Royce Cellar at https://www.facebook.com/Roycecellarhk/


AIWC, Asia International Wine Competition, Tasting Events, Wine Competition, Wine Tasting, Wine Education, Wine Knowledge, Illustrations, #lesillustrationsadom, #ledomduvin, ©LeDomduVin, Wine Store, Wine Experience, Wine Judge


Friday, March 9, 2018

Bodegas Emilio Moro Ribera Del Duero


Bodegas Emilio Moro 

Ribera Del Duero




Nacho Andrès, Export Director of Bodegas Emilio Moro, and Austin Lam, Key Account Manager at EMW (East Meets West Fine Wines - distributor in Hong Kong), paid us a visit today to introduce the wines of Emilio Moro, potentially for our company restaurant "Dynasty Garden", thanks to Jameson Chim, the Sommelier of the restaurant. 


Austin Lam, Jameson Chim, Nacho Andrès and Dominique Noël
at Dynasty Garden Restaurant Kowloon Bay Hong Kong ©ledomduvin 2018


It was a very pleasant surprise as I love the wines from Bodegas Emilio Moro, which I have been buying for the last 16 years. 

In fact, I first discovered the wines of Emilio Moro during my years in New York back in 2002 while I was working as a Wine Consultant and Wine Buyer at PJWine.com, one of the largest and most prominent wine and spirits retail stores in Manhattan at the time (and probably still now).   

The owner and my boss, Mr. Peter Yi, with whom I have worked very closely during 5 years (2002-2007), was one of the pioneer wine retailers in the Big Apple to believe in and heavily promote Spanish wines. He was a wine lover, a smart and cunning businessman, and above all a Spanish wines aficionado.    

Back in the days, in NYC, the selection of Spanish wines was good but not great as it was not diversified enough, mainly Rioja and Ribera del Duero were represented compared to all of the smaller and lesser known regions. Yet, in a few years, due to their good ratio value-for-money, Spanish wines were in demand and the trend evolved drastically to the point that Peter decided to create an annual event dedicated to Spanish Wines and Food, the "PJWine Spanish Festival". Once again, Peter was a pioneer in that field, as no other wine stores ever did that kind of event on such a scale before. It was a very successful event featuring none less than 150-200 of some of the best Spanish wines from both classic and up-and-coming regions all over Spain, selected from the portfolio of importers / distributors we were working with, such as (just to name a few) 



Besides teaching me a great deal about Spanish wines, Peter brought me along with him each year on a trip to France and Spain (with 1 or 2 more persons of the PJWine team). In fact, I was organizing his trips for him (making the appointments with the wineries, planning the days, mapping the roads to take and driving time, booking the hotels and restaurants along the way, as well as being his personal assistant and driver during the whole trip, even driving after each and every tastings and stop at the wineries, fortunately, I was spitting... it is important especially when you have a tasting with 300 wines to taste at 9am). 

Here is a picture I took back in the mid 2000s, during our PJWine annual trip to Spain. That day we were visiting Pesquera (Ribera del Duero). Alejandro Fernández and his daughter Lucía Fernández received us at the Bodegas, we visited the cellars, the vineyards and tasted the wines (which were amazing by the way). 


Peter Yi with Alejandro Fernandez of Pesquera Ribera del Duero
back in the mid 2000s during PJWine Annual trip to Spain
©ledomduvin 2005-2006 (I took that picture 😊)

At the end, Peter, who loves baby lamb, asked Alejandro where we could find a good restaurant nearby where they serve baby lamb chops (or "Chuletas de cordero lechal" in Spanish). Alejandro said "You're going nowhere. I make the best chuletas around, stay with us and I will prepare some for you". Alejandro is a man of character and authority to whom you don't say no to, so we obliged the man 😊.  

In fact, Peter and I were ecstatic, as Alejandro asked us to join him a bit later in the afternoon, not at his home nor at the estate, but in his hut in the vineyards ("Cabaña" or "Choza" in spanish) at the top the hill overlooking the Ribera del Duero vineyards and valley.     



Fireplace of Pesquera's hut in the vineyards (or "Choza" in spanish)
at the top the hill overlooking the Ribera del Duero vineyards and valley
©ledomduvin 2005-2006

Alejandro prepared for us the best "Chuletas de cordero lechal" we ever tasted accompanied with a magnum of Pesquera 1985 or 1988 (don't remember exactly), while enjoying the view of the Ribera del Duero from the top of the hill. An unforgettable moment.

The famous "Chuletas de cordero lechal" on the embers ("La Brasa" in Spanish)
prepared by Alejandro 
Fernández of Pesquera
©ledomduvin 2005-2006


What a great souvenir..... but let's keep Pesquera aside for now (maybe in another post...) and let's go back to the original story and Bodegas Emilio Moro...  which is by the way neighboring Pesquera as you can on the map.


Google Map of Bodegas Emilio Moro courtesy of Google Map ©


So, where was I... ah, yes, the preparation of the Bordeaux then Spain trip...

Prior departure, I was even creating an entire book, each year, with all the details (presentation of the Chateaux and wineries that we will visit, wine maps, itinerary, and endless amount of pages with the names of the wines to be tasted + space for the tasting notes and comments (I still have these books at home). It was fun and eye-opening, memorable and even unforgettable sometimes. I miss these trips. (Peter Yi, if you read this post one day, thank you for these 5 years spent working at your side and more especially for the opportunity to come along in these trips). 

We were usually heading to Bordeaux in France for the "En Primeur" tasting (end of March, beginning of April) for about 6 or 7 days, with a very busy daily schedule, visiting about 8 to 10 Châteaux per day, plus Négociants tastings and lunches and dinners either at a Chateau or a restaurant with a producer or with a négociant. 2 days in Saint-Emilion and Pomerol area. 1 day in the Graves. 2 days in the Haut-Medoc. And usually, 1 or 2 more days with négociants. It was exhausting but thrilling at the same time, and really needed to have a clear idea of the quality of the vintage overall as well as per appellation and per producer. The "En Primeur" Bordeaux tasting is an enlightening experience that I highly recommend for those of you who never had the chance to do it.  

Then, once finished, usually drenched by the rain and tired of tasting Bordeaux wines (more especially that the En Primeur tasting week was notorious to be a rainy week with a crappy weather and disastrous road conditions as there are so many people going to Bordeaux during that week, that you usually end up in a long traffic jam at some point.... and most of the time under the rain...), we were heading south to Spain, hoping for a more clement weather and hopefully some sun. 

First stop was always San Sebastian, or more exactly Getaria, in the heart of Txakoli. Getaria is a beautiful little village located about 15 minutes driving from San Sebastian. It is a charming fisherman "Bourg" with three of my favorites place in the world: the Saiaz Hotel (quint with an extraordinary view on the bay of Getaria) and Kaia-Kaipe restaurant, specializing in grilled fish, especially the Turbo for two, which has one of the best wine lists for old vintage Rioja wines at bargain prices (but shh! it is a secret not to be revealed). The third one is a great restaurant, topping a cliff, with a beautiful, modern dining room overlooking the ocean, called Akelarre. The food is a fusion of Spanish and Basque cuisine with a "Nouvelle Cuisine" approach and price, yet it is definitely worth it, especially if you have a spare lunch on your agenda. There is a 4th place w were also going to, located in San Sebastian, which was probably my top favorite restaurant in San Sebastian at the time Arzak. Anyone should experience Arzak if going or staying in San Sebastian. 

These trips were a bliss not only in terms of wine but also food I must say. Beside his love for Spanish wines, Peter was also a food aficionado and loved eating great food, and I need to admit that I was very lucky to be there with him each year for 5 years. It was amazing to visit all of these wineries, meet the producers, taste all the wines, understand the vineyards by walking amongst the vines, realize the importance of the soils and subsoils as well as the environment, the vine's exposure and other influential factors, that are described in books but that one can only truly understand when seen with his or her own eyes. 

You can read as many books as you want on wines and vineyards, yet you will never get as much knowledge as when you take the time to go and walk in the vineyards listening to the "vigneron" who knows all their details by heart as it is the essence of his or her daily life, to the point that he or she nearly named each vine stock.   

So "en route" to Spain, Txakoli was only a pit stop on our path to Rioja, where like in Bordeaux our schedule was really busy, visiting 7-9 wineries a day with tasting, including lunch and/or dinner with producers and/or merchants. Although I'm French (French-American actually) and more precisely from Bordeaux and grandson of a winemaker in the Cote de Bourg, I see myself as a traitor to my own region of birth, as I love Rioja wines (and Burgundy, and Rhone, and Ribera del Duero, and so many other wine regions...). 

Generally, after a few exciting days in Rioja, visiting classic Bodegas such as Lopez de Heredia, Muga, La Rioja Alta, CVNE (Vina Real, Contino, Imperial), Roda, Vivanco Dinastia, Allende, Artadi, San Vicente, Contador, Marqués de Riscal, Marqués de Murrieta, Remírez de Ganuza, Ostatu, Baigorri, Ramón Bilbao, and a few more... we were heading southwest to Ribera del Duero, where it was also a fantastic experience each time we went there. And that's how I came to visit Bodegas Emilio Moro for the first time back in the early 2000s. 




Ribera del Duero Map courtesy of https://daily.sevenfifty.com
(with indications by LeDomduVin)


Ribera del Duero is an amazing place. It is a valley planted with vines on gentle slopes with good sun exposure along the banks of the Duero river. It is like a basin, where, much like in Napa Valley, the sun is strong and hot, and the earth is scorched every summer and the resulting wines are rich, layered, full, dense, generous and ripe with a lot of texture, structure and character. 



Ribera del Duero ©ledomduvin 2005-2006


It is a place of history guarded by the Peñafiel Castle nestled on a rocky hilltop overlooking the valley and its vineyards. 



Peñafiel Castle,
Peñafiel, Valladolid Province, Spain ©ledomduvin 2005-2006


Peñafiel Castle,
Peñafiel, Valladolid Province, Spain ©ledomduvin 2005-2006


Peñafiel Castle,
Peñafiel, Valladolid Province, Spain ©ledomduvin 2005-2006


If you go to Ribera del Duero and if you like baby lamb (like Peter and I), you should go to one of my favorite restaurants in the world, called "Asados Nazareno", which is without question absolutely THE place to go for "Lechado" (roast baby lamb),  located in the small village of Roa. They serve the most delicious roasted baby lamb I ever tried in my entire life. 

The place is like a cantina for the locals, known by all the producers and all epicureans, where you eat seating at table of 6-8 people (or more), in a large open space with mosaics on the back wall, wide windows and the warmth of the open fire in the brick ovens lodged in the back wall. 

Make sure that you call them 1 or 2 days in advance to book a table as it is nowadays even busier than back then in the early 2000s, and it could be difficult to get a table sometimes. And before I forgot, when you call, you will have to let them know how many plates of "Lechado" you will eat per person, as they only prepare for what has been ordered. 



Asados Nazareno -
Lechado cooking by the open fire in a brick oven lodged in the ornate wall with mosaics
©ledomduvin 2005-2006

Let me enlighten you, they usually start to cook for the lunch at around 5am, as the baby lamb is roasted very very slowly by the open fire in the brick oven for quite a few hours, therefore it is not like in most restaurants where food can be prepared in faster ways, they have to plan from the day before exactly how much they need. There, in Asados Nazareno, time is quintessential to cook the Lechado to perfection. You don't even need a knife, the meat is so tender and juicy that it melts on your tongue and in your palate like butter. Lechado is simply served with a little green salad with tomatoes on the side seasoned with a dash of olive oil and a pinch of salt, and trust me, it is one of the most delicious meal I had in my entire life, simple yet so flavorful and delicious... 



Asados Nazareno -
Slowly roasted Lechado simply served with a little green salad with tomatoes on the side
seasoned with a dash of olive oil and a pinch of salt
©ledomduvin 2005-2006

Asados Nazareno is definitely worth doing a little "detour" by Roa for the lunch when you are visiting Ribera del Duero.    

But once again, I let myself go by deviating from my original story due to my love food and wine, and the fact that one experience is always intertwine with another one (got it? intertwine... ok, never mind) and now I lost my train of thoughts....

Ah yes, Bodegas Emilio Moro....

Bodegas Emilio Moro is located at the top of a bend in the Duero River in the town of Pesquera del Duero, just to the Northwest of Peñafiel (right by Tinto Pesquera as you can see on the maps above).
The Moro family has been farming the same vineyards in the Ribera del Duero since 1932, the birth year of Emilio Moro (the patriarch) as well as the year in which the Finca Resalso vineyard was planted. For two generations, the grapes were sold on the bulk market. In 1988, current proprietor José Moro Espinosa invested the family’s entire savings into winery equipment and Bodegas Emilio Moro was born. The bodega joined the D.O. Ribera del Duero in 1989 and quickly established itself as one of the region’s leading producers of top quality wines.
(Winery introduction courtesy of Michael Skurnik website here)

Nowadays the Bodegas is run by the two brothers Jose and Javier Moro.

Javier Moro (left) and Jose Moro (right) of Bodegas Emilio Moro
(© courtesy of www.weinhandelshaus.at)
Bodegas Emilio Moro has a beautiful websites full of useful information (here), so I will now go straight to what I was supposed to write about, when I started what was supposed to be a little post 😊, the wines!!!


So, the tasting with Nacho Andrès, Export Manager of Bodegas Emilio Moro, consisted on the following wines:



Bodegas Emilio Moro Tasting Selection at Dynasty Garden restaurant
©LeDomduVin 2018-03-08



2016 Bodegas Emilio Moro "Finca Resalso" Ribera del Duero
©LeDomduVin 2018

2016 Bodegas Emilio Moro "Finca Resalso" Ribera del Duero
©LeDomduVin 2018

2016 Bodegas Emilio Moro "Finca Resalso" Ribera del Duero
Suggested Retail Price 6-8 Euros (60-90 HKD)
100% tempranillo macerated for 18 days on lees.

The 2016 Finca Resalso is a very friendly, juicy, fruity wine with blackberry and currant aromas mingled with subtle hints of oak, good acidity and solid tannins, yet fairly well integrated, making this quaffable wine very approachable and enjoyable as a daily wine to pair with all sorts of cuisine. It is a really good value for money, and I was pleasantly surprised of its accessibility despite its young age for a Ribera del Duero wine. I usually prefer to wait a few more years after bottling before drinking Ribera wines, as they usually need a bit of bottle ageing to settle down, but obviously not this one. Definitely a "cash cow" if used as a wine by the glass in restaurant. Interestingly enough, Finca Resalso is made out grapes from the eponymous vineyard first planted in 1932, yet, by contrast, the vines are only 5 to 15 years old. they must have uprooted the old vines for some reasons and replanted some until fairly recently. The youthness of the vines is nicely expressed into this playful and vibrant young wine profile and character.  
LeDomduVin (Tasted 08.03.2018)       



2015 Bodegas Emilio Moro "Emilio Moro" Ribera del Duero
©LeDomduVin 2018

The founder of the winery is proudly displayed on the label of "Emilio Moro", as it represents everything Emilio Moro is all about, character, personality and complexity.  Being produced out of grapes from 15 to 25 years old vines planted on soils representing the essence of three types of soil in the Ribera del Duero adds to the complexity and different nuances of this wine. 


2015 Bodegas Emilio Moro "Emilio Moro" Ribera del Duero
©LeDomduVin 2018

2015 Bodegas Emilio Moro "Emilio Moro" Ribera del Duero
Suggested Retail Price 14-16 Euros (135-155 HKD)
100% Tinto Fino grapes macerated with their skin for 15 days and aged in American and French oak barrels for 12 months, until bottling.

2015 is a great vintage for Ribera del Duero in general and it shows in this beautiful yet tight "Emilio Moro". Although the bottle had been opened for quite a few hours, the nose appeared a bit muted at first (to me) and took a few swirls in the glass to be more expressive and get more intensity. Fragile, subtil aromas of red and black berries with nuances of tobacco, leather, herbs, earth, spices intermingling with the toasted oak notes on the nose. Although boasting very enticing fruity, earthy, leathery and toasted flavors, the palate is still tight and youthful, yet nicely layered and complex, with a good balance overall between the acidity and the ripe fleshy tannins building a solid structure and texture with plenty of concentration to make it a great wine. Yet again, the tight grip of tannins and touch of alcohol in the back palate will demand a bit of time to round up and get better integrated. This medium to full bodied wine shows a lot of potential to evolve greatly and become one of the stellar of the appellation in this price range, yet it is still too young to drink now in my opinion and will definitely require quite a few more years of ageing in the bottle to be more harmonious and round up some of the edges. If serve now, some decanting time will definitely be needed for it to reveal itself on the bright side. Otherwise always a good value for money in my opinion. 
LeDomduVin (Tasted 08.03.2018)




2014 Bodegas Emilio Moro "Malleolus" Ribera del Duero
©LeDomduVin 2018


2014 Bodegas Emilio Moro "Malleolus" Ribera del Duero
©LeDomduVin 2018

2014 Bodegas Emilio Moro "Malleolus" Ribera del Duero
Suggested Retail Price 28.5-32 Euros (268-310 HKD)
100% Tinto Fino grapes. 18 days maceration on lees. The malolactic fermentation occurs in French oak barrels, after what it then aged for 18 months in Allier French oak barrels.

Wow, what a beautiful nose, extremely fragrant, complex and layered with tons of aromas, opulent and intense. I kept going back for it. In fact, I was enjoying the wine just by smelling it. Surely the range of 25-75 years old vines and the diversity of the soils have something to do with it. Aside from the classic scent of the Tinto Fino beautifully expressed in this wine, the nose also combines aromas of blackberry, ripe dark currant, chocolate, nuts, toasted oak, leather, balsamic, herbs, spices as well as mineral and floral hints. On the palate, the attack is fresh, generous, soft and supple, and gradually increases in intensity and power in the ample mid-palate, with layers of complex flavors leading to the refined, integrated and long lasting finish. Even minutes later, I was still chewing the ripe, mature yet very well integrated tannin (need some red meat with that). This wine boasts a combination of freshness, concentration, harmony, balance, texture, structure and length with plenty to offer for quite a few years to come. It is said that Malleolus is the quintessential expression of Emilio Moro style and terroir expression, and it definitely shows in this wine. And once again, a bargain compared to some of its peers from the same Appellation. Highly recommended. 
LeDomduVin (Tasted 08.03.2018)           



2010 Bodegas Emilio Moro "Malleolus de Valderramiro" Ribera del Duero
©LeDomduVin 2018


Elaborated from grapes harvested in the Valderramiro vineyard, which was planted in 1924, Malleolus de Valderramiro is the expression of the terroir that surrounds it. In the label we can see Emilio Moro during the pruning process in one of the oldest vineyards owned by the family.


2010 Bodegas Emilio Moro "Malleolus de Valderramiro" Ribera del Duero
©LeDomduVin 2018


2010 Bodegas Emilio Moro "Malleolus de Valderramiro" Ribera del Duero
Suggested Retail Price 83-113 Euros (810-1100 HKD)
100% Tinto Fino grapes. Malolactic fermentation in American oak barrels then aged for 18 months in French oak barrels.

There again a beautiful nose, not as fragrant or intense as the previous one, yet enticing with primary and secondary aromas/bouquet of dark ripe fruit, figues, tobacco, leather, roasted coffee, smoke, smoked earth, game, underbrush, forest floor, spice, liquorice and toasted oak notes. The palate is rich, quite intense and complex, ample and coating, yet elegant and refined at the same time with the same flavours as on the nose, yet more intensified. Long beautifully balanced, structured and textured finish with a good dose of integrated yet present tannins and persistent reminiscence of smoke, earth and mineral in the back end. Although it will still well be alive for another decade or two, the wine shows some interesting secondary aromas and flavors that give it a dash more of depth and complexity. It is the type of wine that I have no problem finishing the bottle on my own. The few sips during the tasting (and because it was the last wine) definitely called for a proper glass (glasses I meant...😊). Highly recommended. 
LeDomduVin (Tasted 08.03.2018)



Austin Lam, Jameson Chim, Nacho Andrès and Dominique Noël
at Dynasty Garden Restaurant Kowloon Bay Hong Kong 
©ledomduvin 2018



Voila, that is it for today..... Thank you again to Nacho Andrès for introducing the wines and to Austin Lam for visiting our Chinese restaurant Dynasty Garden and bringing such gems like these along with you.


Santé, cheers, and stay tuned for post like this one soon.

Dominique Noël a.k.a LeDomduVin

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@bodegasemiliomoro @ledomduvin



©LeDomduVin 2018