Showing posts with label Graciano. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Graciano. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

2001 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Gran Reserva Ollauri Spain

2001 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Gran Reserva Ollauri Spain 


Bodegas Beronia is located in the village of Ollauri, about 5 kilometers south of Haro and about 10 kilometers west of San Vicente de la Sonsierra, in the Rioja Alta part of La Rioja.

In the third century BC, the “Berones” inhabited La Rioja, hence the name of "Beronia", named after them. This tempered part of Spain occupied by the “Berones” was found to be ideal for vine cultivation; as a result, La Rioja has since then proved to be one of the country's best and most consistent wine producing regions.

Founded in 1973 by a group of friends, Beronia was rapidely considered as a winery of reference, as it produced, from the beginning, classic Reserva and Grand Reserva wines using the purest and most traditional methods of Rioja.

Exceeding all expectations, Bodegas Beronia partnered with González Byass in 1982 to perfect the development of both projects. Since then, the sales and success of Beronia have been excellent in both national and international markets.

Beronia’s history and philosophy is based on two fundamental values: tradition and quality. Both concepts have allowed Beronia to produce constantly superior wines from the entry level to the special cuvées. All of which are exported to more than 70 countries worldwide.

In terms of Terroir, Bodegas Beronia is located in the Rioja Alta area, which corresponds to the northwestern part of La Rioja region. This particular area possesses mainly calcareous-clay soil and most vineyards are planted on average at an altitude of 600 meters (ASL). These two main factors allow for good drainage and enough retained moisture in the soil for the vines, but also cooler temperature at night due to the elevation, which is ideal to slow down the ripening process, consequently obtaining perfect ripeness.

The area’s climatic conditions should mostly be influenced by the Atlantic Ocean to the north, however, the Cantabria and Demanda mountain ranges act as a natural protection, forming like an amphitheater, which somewhat shelter the sunbathed hilly Rioja vineyards. The region also benefits of the Ebro River, which creates series of various microclimates throughout the 3 Riojas (Alta, Alavesa and Baja) and provides much needed water for the vines.

Closed to Haro and San Vicente de la Sonsierra, respectively the capital of La Rioja Alta and the most charming and renowned hilltop postcard village of La Rioja, Bodegas Beronia's location is considered to be a truly unique place for the creation of wines of high quality. The medieval city of Haro itself is home to some of the best and most notorious wineries of La Rioja. "Barrio de la Estacion", Haro's train station neighborhood complex, which originated in 1877, still encompasses wineries with some of the oldest Calado in La Rioja (deep underground caves carved in the calcareous hill used for the ageing and storage of the wines). To the north of the Estacion, the oldest of the remaining wineries are: Bodegas Lopez de Heredia "Tondonia" with its Calado dating back from 1892; "Bilbainas" and "Roda". Also within the train station neighborhood, but to the south of the previous wineries, with semi-underground Calados, reside "La Rioja Alta", "Gomez Cruzado", "CVNE" and "Muga". Most wineries, located near the Barrio de la Estacion (the train station quarter), were built in this area to faciliate the transportation of wine.

Beronia's winery is surrounded by 10 hectares of vineyards that are more than 60 years old. To complement the original holdings, now behind the winery, resides a new estate of 25 hectares. In addition, the technical team at Beronia control about 700 hectares of vineyards situated within a 10km radius of the winery.

The grape varieties used in Beronia are all the ones authorised by the Appellation of Origin of Rioja, which include Tempranillo (90%), Graciano (3%), Mazuelo (3%) and Viura (4%). The majority of the grapes come from contracts with about 150 vine-growers, but also other long term contracts and year round cooperation with all of them.

As I just mentioned, all the grapes used at Beronia come from the immediate surrounding vineyards around the estate but also from various vineyards within a 10 kilometers radius of the cellars, ensuring that only the highest quality grapes enter the winery and that transport of the grapes between the vineyards and the winery occurs as fast as possible to preserve the quality of the fruit. A close relationship is maintained with these 150 vine-growers who supply the grapes, guaranteeing that only the best quality grapes are selected and that the process is done so in the most natural way.

Beronia's technical experts frequently visit the estates throughout the year ensure that the use of fertilizers and chemicals are kept to a minimum, so as not to threaten the health or quality of the grape. It is their priority to maintain healthy and high quality grapes.  Beronia, true to its tradition, produces a classic line of fine and well-balanced wines: Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva. In addition to these, two white wines are also produced, a young Viura and a barrel fermented Viura.

They also preserve their innovative and avant-gardist attitude with an interesting range of single variety wines, special production Tempranillo and Beronia Mazuelo Reserva, making them the only winery in Rioja to produce a Reserva wine from the Mazuelo grape.

The harvest usually takes place from the end of September until the middle of October. All grapes used in the production of the wines at Beronia are obtained from specially chosen vineyards in the high and low areas of La Rioja Alta, to mix grapes of various degrees of ripeness and Terroir of origin to add complexity to the final desired blend.

95% of the wines produced at Beronia are red wines, which are aged over a long period of time in American oak barrels. A select number of barrels, used for the best wines, are mixed wood, with the cover made of French oak and the staves of American oak.

Bodegas Beronia has a total production of 500.000 cases of 12 bottles (9 liters per case) with over 2.750.000 bottles in stock and houses 28.000 oak casks (American, French and mixed) with an average age of 4 years, after which the barrels are sold and rotated with new ones.


The wines produced by Bodegas Beronia include:

  • Beronia Viura  
  • Beronia Viura Barrel Fermented  
  • Beronia Tempranillo Special Production  
  • Beronia Mazuelo Reserva  
  • Beronia Crianza  
  • Beronia Reserva  
  • Beronia Gran Reserva  
  • Beronia III a.C.   


The wine maker Matías Calleja, has worked as the technical director of the bodega for more than 20 years. He has more than 25 years of experience in producing and ageing quality wines from La Rioja.

Last year Matías launched his latest creation: III AC, a tribute to the first inhabitants of La Rioja. A unique wine made with selected grape varieties Tempranillo,  Graciano  and  Mazuelo  from  old vineyards. This is then aged in American, French and Bulgarian oak casks. The result is a superb and complex wine.




2001 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Gran Reserva Ollauri Spain 
Suggested retail $23-$26 
Imported by Wildman in NYC

Talking about superb wine, for a guy like me who is a Spanish wines aficionado, the 2001 Gran Reserva is an excellent example of the quality of this exceptional vintage in Rioja, more especially at under $30, it is a steal.

Made out of roughly 92% Tempranillo 4% Carignan and 4% Graciano, and only after a careful selection of the grapes and a long fermentation, the 2001 Beronia Gran Reserva was aged for 24 months in American-French oak barrels, to be bottled in 2005, and remained in the cellar for a few more years before release.

Note by the way that La Rioja wines are the only wines in the world to be aged at the property for that long (3 years minimum for a Reserva - 2 years in barrels + 1 year in bottles - and 5 years minimum for a Gran Reserva - 2 to 3 years in barrels and the remaining in bottles) and to be released on the market only when the winemaker decide so and the wine is ready. Which is quite amazing, when you think how labor intensive and about how much it must cost them to store these wines for years.  

However, as I was saying earlier, I’m a big fan of the 2001 vintage and old Rioja wines in general and I wasn’t disappointed at all by this wine. Quite classic in fact. Red cherry color with garnet and ochre reflects on the rim. The nose boasts complex and elegant ripe fruit and oaky chocolate aromas intermingled with notes of sweet spices like nutmeg and cloves, and some underbrush and balsamic hints. Framed by soft and integrated sweet woody tannins, the palate is broad, rich, ample and well structured, with complex nuances of ripe fruit, chocolate, spices and licorice. The long finish is harmonious and agreeably persistent. When I think Rioja wines, I usually think about "Chuletas Asado"de Porcino y de Cordero (grilled lamb and pork chops), served with local mushrooms and grilled or roasted vegetables.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited and translated from the winery website at  http://www.beronia.es

And, not that it matters for this post, but when I think Ribera del Duero, I think about "Salones Nazareno", better known as "El Nazareno", a restaurant located in the village of Roa, northeastern part of Ribera del Duero, serving the best "Lechazo"I have ever tasted. I have eaten there each time I went to visit wineries in Ribera del Duero, and each time I was amazed and extremely satisfied.

Well known from the local winemakers who usually go there for the lunch with their family and guests and trade visitors like me, this family-run restaurant which resembles more like a friendly family cantina than a three stars Michelin, serves probably the best Lechazo of the Ribera del Duero region.

Lechazo is the baby lamb roasted in wood fired ovens typical from Castilla, usually served in a steaming open copper pot with a green salad aside seasoned only with olive oil and “Fleur de Sel” type of salt. The combination is to die for.

There are no menus here since roasted baby lamb is the specialty and the only dish prepared in the restaurant. It is usually pretty busy and you must book in advance, as they take in consideration the amount of lamb that you will eat. The usual order is about a quarter for two, but they really have to know in advance as the lambs are counted and evaluated for the exact number of guests who booked for the lunch and slowly roasted from early morning.

You can start with some black sausage and some cheese from the area, also available as a starter, but the main and only dish is the Lechazo and green salad. The lamb is so tender that it literally melts in your palate. The wine list offers a great choice of the local wines. And if you happen to have nothing to do in the afternoon, you might as well stay and admire the view of the Duero river, with a Spanish brandy, a cognac or a Calvados, from the bar which is full of classic Digestif(s) that will pair pretty well with one of the numerous cigars their humidor contains.

If you've never experienced such thing as "Lechazo", the Castilla way, you ought to go to El Nazareno.


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Sunday, January 31, 2010

Bodegas Viña Ijalba Graciano Rioja Spain


Bodegas Viña Ijalba Graciano Rioja Spain

On one of my previous post on introducing "CVNE Contino" (see my post of Sat. 03.28.09), I was talking about the fact that Graciano, which usually constitutes a minimal part of the blend with Mazuelo (also known as Carignan in France and Cariñena in Spain) in Rioja's wines, only complements Tempranillo to add color and aromas and part of the structure and texture.

Graciano is a late budding grape variety, with naturally low yield, that necessitates longer ripening season than Tempranillo and is usually rarely bottled on its own. Yet, quite a few property now possesses some old vines Graciano and the wine that this grape produces is characterized by its deep red color, strong earthy aromas and ability to age well, but only few are the wineries daring to bottle Graciano. Along with Contino led by skillful winemaker Jesus Madrazo, Bodegas Viña Ijalba is one of these few adventurous estates setting the example and the trend.

Viña Ijalba was founded in 1975 by Dionisio Ruiz Ijalba, with the planting of the first vineyard of Villamediana de Irega (near Logroño). Since then, the vines of Viña Ijalba have been cultivated strictly in accordance with traditional Rioja rules and, more importantly, organic methods: high density, in infertile and shallow soils, no use of chemical fertilizers (only dung), no irrigation during the growing cycle, and no use of insecticides or pesticides.

The entire vineyard is planted on abandoned opencast mines, which have been restored from an environmental point of view, having received several national and European prizes for the restoration undergone. As a consequence of the location of the vineyard, the soils are poor and limy, with little depth. The vineyards are planted on the sites of ancient quarries, which have poor rocky soils. Thus, the vine's roots have to grow very deep to find water and nourishment.

Viña Ijalba, which is also one of Rioja's leading Organic wineries, produces all of its wines under organic methods and processes. The wines of Bodegas Viña Ijalba, are the result of vineyards (viñedos) planted traditionally with the best bio-organic techniques. This fairly new bodega uses modern technology, and a totally original philosophy of wine making. The actual Bodega and cellar was constructed north of Logroño in 1991.

Viña Ijalba owns 70 Hectares (175 acres) of vineyards which are in a number of parcels surrounding Logroño, in San Vicente de la Sonsierra, and Valle del Najerilla. These vineyards supply 100 % of the production of the bodega. The grapes planted have been matched to the soil type and micro-climate of each vineyard site.


Viña Ijalba produces a fairly large range of fully organic wines:
  • "Genoli" Viura: a Blanco made from 100% Viura.
  • "Aloque" Rose: a young Rosado made from 50% Garnacha and 50% free run Tempranillo.
  • "Livor" Tinto: a young Tinto made from 90% Tempranillo and 10% Mazuelo.
  • "Solferino": a tinto made from 100% Tempranillo with fermentation using whole berries with traditional foot treading as practiced 100 years ago.
  • "Ijalba Graciano": a classic Tinto made from 100% Graciano. Apparently, in 1995, it was the first 100% varietal Graciano to be bottled on its own in the history of Rioja!
  • "Múrice": a crianza en Barrica made from 90% Tempranillo, 5% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo aged for one year in new oak plus one year in the bottle.
  • "Ijalba Reserva": a Reserva made from 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano aged for two years in new oak plus two years ageing in the bottle.
  • "Ijalba Reserva Especial": a Reserva Especial made from 50% Graciano and 50% old vines Tempranillo aged for two years in new oak plus two years ageing in the bottle.

Ijalba Graciano's vinification: fermentation of the crushed and pressed grapes occurred in stainless steel tanks at a constant temperature of 25°C. The wine was then stabilized at low temperature, and lightly filtered, and was aged in oak for aproximately 12 months before bottling.




2004 Bodegas Viña Ijalba Graciano Rioja Spain
Suggested retail price $18-$21
Imported/Distributed by Baron François in NYC

At first, this wine strikes you with its deep red-lilac-garnet color, somewhat unusual purple with timid brick reflects on the rim. On the nose, intense aromas of ripe figs and dark wild berries mingled with underbrush, slightly mushroomy, earthy notes (in a good intriguing way). The palate is fairly intense too and Terroir oriented. Rich and well balanced with great acidity and somewhat raw textured, the wine is fruity, earthy, medium to full-bodied, may be esoteric for some yet well crafted, soft and inviting with present yet nicely integrated chewy tannins. Definitely a food friendly wine, ready to drink now after a bit of aeration yet showing some good ageing potential.

From the importer's point of view, it goes well with strong, heavy and spicy meals, red meat, venison (hare, boar, stag), but as well with fish like sea bream, tuna or cod (grilled or with a sauce) and all typed of risotto.

FYI: we also have the 2005 vintage at the store, which is also a very good wine, somehow less austere yet, in my opinion, not fully ready to drink now and somehow less open than the 2004 for the moment due to some tannins that will need a bit more time to settle down. Despite this last comments, I also love the 2005 Viña Ijalba Graciano. By the way, the label of the 2005 vintage is quite different from the one of the 2004 vintage, it has been revamped.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info taken and edited from the NYC Importer/Distributor website at www.baronfrancois.com and from the Pennsylvania Importer/Distributor at www.worldshippers.com

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Monday, November 30, 2009

2001 Marqués de Haro Selección Especial Rioja Haro Spain

Tonight, a few hours ago, I was faced with a problem. No wine to drink with dinner... What a dilemma for a French guy, more over a wine buyer and wine lover, like me!

Should I go to the nearest wine store, the closest one to my house, which also happens to be the place of my first job in a wine retail store in Manhattan, knowing that the price are great and that I wouldn’t mind opening a bottle of Marqués de Riscal 2004 Reserva (we drank quite a few of them and still not bored of it), which is one of my wife and I favorite Rioja wineries (a touch commercial now and less traditional, but consistent and reliable), or should I just try to have a look in my small wine fridge among the bottles that we normally keep for good occasions to find a fortunately misplaced bottle of what ever it will be.

Well, it was cold and rainy outside, so I opted for the second choice: the wine fridge. Curiously (or not for those of you who know me well), most of my precious bottles, the ones that I keep jealously and represent sentimental memories, are mostly from the Rioja region in Spain.

Strange, for a guy coming from Bordeaux, one might have expected finding a few Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pessac-Leognan, Saint-Emilion, Pomerol, Côtes de Castillon and Côtes de Bourg, which are some of my favorite Bordeaux appellations… yet none! In my mother and father’s houses, yes, but none in New York!

However, searching among the few gems laying down at the bottom of the wine fridge, I found a bottle of 2001 Marqués de Haro Selección Especial Rioja Haro Spain. This bottle was offered to me a while ago, but I don’t remember if it was while working as one of the host for the PJwine.com Spanish wine festival (which is by the way one of the best Spanish tastings in NYC) or if it was when I last visited the winery in 2006.

Despite the fact that it was a 2001 vintage and that I surely should have kept it for a few more years, and that the wine, despite its expensive price ($85-$95 in NYC), had no sentimental value, except may be the fact that I tasted it at the winery when I visited La Rioja Alta winery a few years ago... I needed a wine for tonight’s dinner, so why not? After all, why not treating ourselves with a good Rioja, everyday is a good occasion, after all, you’ll never know what might happen tomorrow, so might as well enjoy it today.


La Rioja Alta, S.A. Marqués de Haro

Marqués de Haro is one of the labels produced by the group of “La Rioja Alta S.A.” one of the old, classic wineries located in Rioja’s wine capital Haro.

On July 10, 1890, five Basque and Rioja-based vine growers created "SOCIEDAD VINICOLA DE LA RIOJA ALTA" which was and still is known as the Haro Station District. This was the beginning of a fascinating business venture in which the only dream of the five founders was to craft and age high quality wines.

The open-minded spirit of Rioja’s wineries and winemakers of nowadays, towards other European technologies and ideas, was already present in the region and in La Rioja Alta S.A. winery from the very beginning. Mr. Vigier, a French expert, was hired as technical manager and, soon after, the vinification and ageing processes were changed to what is now known as “classic” vinification. Shortly after, the company changed its name to "LA RIOJA ALTA" in 1891.

To shortly explain what happened since, here is a little history sequence taken the winery website with a few personal comments:

  • In 1941, the company took on its present name, “La Rioja Alta, S.A.” LA RIOJA ALTA, S.A. A year later, they register the brand name that brought them fame and renown: “Viña Ardanza”. At the time, casks were manufactured entirely in the winery by a team of five coopers, but the concept was abandoned later. In 2002, they revived this tradition and manufactured their own cask since, with wood imported from the U.S. and dried for 2 years in their coopery.
  • In 1952, purchase of the winery’s first bottling system. Before that, the bottling process took place in the client’s facilities (like for many wineries at the time in Europe –like France, Italy, Portugal, Germany, etc.- bottling was a luxury handled by the wine merchants and other Négociants, or by a bottling system mounted on a truck going from wineries to cooperatives and village to village. People in general may not realize it, but before and until the 50s, bottling at the property was a costly concept that only began to be more affordable and accessible to more people in the late 50s and mid 60s).
  • In 1970, a new cask hall was built and we started to increase their vineyards, buying several estates. This was the time when new brands were introduced, such as Viña Arana and Viña Alberdi.
  • In 1985, they registered a brand name, which was to become very popular in the future: Marqués de Haro. They were also trying to find vineyards and make white wines, with the same high quality as their reds.
  • As a result, in 1987 they acquired and renovated a traditional winery located in the heart of Galicia, "Lagar de Fornelos, S. A.", which produces the excellent “Lagar de Cervera” made from 76 hectares of 100% Albariño vines.
  • On January 27, 1995, they bought “Torre de Oña, S.A.” a charming winery located in the area of Páganos-Laguardia, which produces “Barón de Oña” a great Reserva red. This made them one of the best quality producers in Rioja Alavesa.
  • On January 16, 1996, work started on the new Labastida winery, located on their estates just 1,500 meters from the Haro winery. This new facility enabled them to considerably improve the quality of the wines made by La Rioja Alta, S.A. , especially with the fermentation process.

Always eager to grow and diversify their wine portfolio, and after a long, but thorough search, which started in 1989 with the purchase and plantation of the first vineyards, 1999 to 2001 saw the construction of a new, state-of-the-art winery called Bodegas Y Viñedos Áster, located in Anguix (Burgos) in the Ribera del Duero Designation of Origin.

Now fully developed and equipped, producing a wide array of wines allowing them to satisfy the need of their customers and to be represented in all the major markets around the globe, La Rioja Alta is now focusing on innovation, better quality and adaptation to the rapidly evolving changes occurring in the wine world.

During my last visit at La Rioja Alta S.A, in April 2006, we had the chance to taste some wines at the barrel from the fantastic 2004 vintage and the already opulent 2005, but also had the privilege to go upstairs in the magnificent tasting rooms, sitting around a huge wooden and glass table, tasting some of the experiments of the winemaker who was actually genuinely asking us what will be better for the American consumers and make us taste different blends that we gratefully described and commented. He was trying and experimenting different blends to offer more appealing wines to certain markets, yet remaining true to the quality and the image of La Rioja Alta and the classic taste of Rioja. What a challenge for this innovative and daring winemaker named Julio Sáenz. Spending a few hours with this man, tasting and talking about wine and vinification process, really taught us how complex, precise, fragile and exciting the job of winemaker can be.

After this little parentheses that brought us back in the history of La Rioja Alta winery, let’s go back to our wine of the day: the 2001 Marqués de Haro Selección Especial.

So as previously said, Marqués de Haro was born in 1985 in the Experimentation Hall, as the result of a research program to expend the portfolio and complete the range of produced wine, with a high quality wine and a slight different profile in mind.

Supervised by Julio Sáenz, La Rioja Alta’s oenologist, the blending and experiments are all conducted in the winery's Experimentation Hall. The primary purpose of the Experimentation Hall is to study the different factors affecting the quality and style of the wines, in addition research is also focused on new wine market trends so, in cases like this, they also make completely new wines (like some of the new blends that they were tasting on us back in 2006).

It is a fairly new project based on the old traditional Rioja’s way to blend the influence of the different oak used for the barrels and respect the aromas and flavors from Rioja’s grape varieties: Tempranillo as the base and foundation of each wine, blended with Graciano, which adds elegance and freshness.




2001 Marqués de Haro Selección Especial Rioja Haro Spain
Suggested retail price $85-$95
Although La Rioja Alta S.A wines are imported/distributed by Michael Skurnik in NYC, I do not think that Marques de Haro is available in the US (I may be wrong…) and Skurnik doesn’t seem to carry it.

There again, I’m not too sure and the winery website doesn’t mention it, but it seems that Marqués de Haro Selección Especial is only produced in certain vintage, after this 2001 vintage, the current release is the 2005. It also seems that some rare magnum and double magnum of Marqués de Haro Gran Reserva were produced in the late 80s, there again it only happened for special occasion or specific vintage, like 1989.

The 2001 Marqués de Haro Selección Especial is roughly a blend of 85% Tempranillo from a selection of old vineyards in Briñas and Villalba, planted on clay loam soil, and 15% of Graciano from the Melchorón vineyard in Rodezno, on sand soil, respectively trained in respect of the grape and its need depending on the type of soil. After about 9 days of alcoholic fermentation at a controlled temperature, the fermented wine remained with its skins for 7 days in order to ensure the required structure and color. Malolactic fermentation took place in stainless steel tanks for 35 days, after which the wine was transferred to casks in the Experimentation Room in May 2006. Oak ageing process may differ depending on the vintage, but approximately, the Tempranillo was aged in 60% new French and 40% American oak casks, whereas the Graciano remained in new American oak. After 12 months in the cask, and being racked by hand twice after 4 and 12 months, it was bottled after a slight filtration process in July 2003.

Just out of the temperature controlled wine fridge, the 2001 Marqués de Haro Selección Especial was a bit cold but already promising features. In the glass, it showed a bright, garnet color of light to medium intensity, enhanced with slight brick reflects. I let it rest for a little while to bring it at room temperature. After a few minutes, it already released an attractive perfume. The very expressive nose was fresh, refined and vibrant, with red cherry and spicy oak aromas intermingled with layered nuances of red berry and darker or riper berries, spices, lead pencil, leather, somewhat ripe figs, earth and tobacco. Somehow, dark, tight, slightly tannic, austere and woody when cold, now that it was at the right temperature, it was far more open, soft, silky, almost feminine and beautifully balanced. Light to medium bodied, For a Selección Especial I was expecting a richer style of wine, but I was far from being disappointed, on the contrary, I even liked it better this way. Bright red cherry and spicy oak aromas lifted by an incredible, refreshing acidity and framed by very integrated, finely chiseled tannins, up until the long lasting finish. Somewhat delicate, refined and charming, this wine is another proof of the high quality wines crafted at La Rioja Alta, S.A, and an outstanding example of how good the acclaimed and now classic 2001 vintage was in Rioja. A “must have” wine for amateurs and connoisseurs of traditional, old school Rioja wines.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken (and edited) from the winery website at www.riojalta.com and photo from the opened bottle at home.

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Sunday, September 20, 2009

My favorite Rioja producers

My favorite Rioja Producers

People who knows me will tell you that I'm a big fan of Spain and its wines, Txakoli and Galicia whites but also Bierzo, Ribera del Duero, Priorat, Toro, Cigales, Ribeira, Taragona, Monsant, Jumilla, Navarra, La Mancha, Penedes, Xeres, etc....and more especially Rioja.

I visited Spain many times over the last 12 years and enjoyed it a bit more every time I was there. The climate is warm and pleasant; people are still friendly and less pretentious and presumptuous than in other European countries; food is quite good (not at the level of the best of France or Italy, but definitely not far, especially in the Basque and the Catalan region) and the wines are great, full and generous yet balanced and in most cases age worthy with earthy tannins.

In Spain, the landscapes is a bit like being in Disney world: the roads are usually brand new and very well maintained, almost futuristic (compared to New Jersey or even New York), yet if you look around certain regions seem to have remain in distant time, between the 12th and 16th century, almost like a decor, it is beautiful. Those of you who have been traveling in Rioja surely understand what I'm trying to describe. The town of Haro or even more specifically San Vicente de la Sonsierra, La Guardia and ElCiego are jewels from the past, worth to visit.

Some people may complain about the oak and the ripeness being too much (or too American palate oriented) in some classic Spanish regions like Ribera del Duero and Rioja, and I will agree for most of the wines imported toward the US, but if go there you will be surprise by the amount of wineries that continue to produce classic, traditional wines. Moreover, and not to forget, the woody notes mixed with red cherry fruits and earthy notes have always been a part of the tradtional nose and taste of Rioja (and Ribera del Duero) wines (there is nothing new about that, but it is true that some wineries are using to much new oak which can really impart the taste and quality of the fruit).

However, here are a few Rioja wineries (amongst my favorites and in my opinion) that will probably always remain classic and traditional in their own district (due to different convictions, ideals, styles, characters, locations, vinification, winemaking and ageing techniques and conditions):

Either located in Rioja Alavesa, Alta or Baja, you will also be surprise to realize how quite a few wineries in Spain's major regions including Rioja have evolved and already taken 2 or 3 steps ahead compared to other European countries by producing more polished wines and by being better adapted to newer generations and newer market, by creating multiple wines at different prices and level of quality to satisfy different purposes and palates (and all these within the same winery most of the time), ranging from the most classical and traditional (for the purist like me) to the riper and woodier style (for the "Parkerised" palates and fuller wines amateurs). Here are a few examples (here again amongst my favorites):

And complementing the previous list, here are a few more wineries that have also evolved and also created different brands, wines and labels, but also use more new oak and usually present a riper style compared to the more classic. Some have been called the promise and spirits of the "New Spain", being from a newer, younger generations somewhat more inclined to open their minds, ears and eyes toward the rest of the world and the newer market, than their predecessors (family or not), or simply because they decided to completely revamp their style compared to what they used to do before.

I could write plenty more (you know me) about each of these great wineries which represent (IMO) some of best that Rioja has to offer, but once again it will be too long (and I rather write a post for each of these wineries) so I just invite you to click on the above winery names to go directly to their respective websites. I'm sure that I forgot to mention many other wineries that should have been part of these lists, but I only mentioned the ones that really pleased me the most by the quality of their wines and their consistency amongst all the Rioja's wines that I've tasted over the past 17 years.

For more info and a complete list of most Rioja's wineries per town, go to: www.a2000.es/molojuca/riojadivino/listadebodegas.asp

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

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Saturday, March 28, 2009

2000 CVNE "Contino" Reserva Rioja Spain

CONTINO Laserna winery plaque by ©LeDomduVin 2009
CONTINO Laserna winery plaque
by ©LeDomduVin 2009



2000 CVNE "Contino" Reserva Rioja Spain


Suggested retail price $41-45
Distributed by Southern Wine & Spirits in NYC

CVNE produces many different Rioja wines from the more classical Rioja style to the heavier, riper, oaky(er) new world style. However, even for the riper style, their wines remain balanced, juicy, earthy and true to their Terroir.

Contino is one of the prestige cuvées of CVNE, along with their renown "Cuvée Impérial" (more Bordeaux style) and Vina Real (earthier, more Burgundian style). 

CONTINO was established in 1973, in a separate estate (from the main CVNE winery) in Laserna, Rioja Alavesa, a few miles from Laguardia. (FYI: CVNE is located in Haro and Vina Real is nestled on the top of a hill overlooking Logroño, called "Cerro de la Mesa").

Contino is, somewhat, a single-vineyard plot of a bit more than 60 hectares of vines, surrounding a beautiful several century-old Spanish farmhouses. It produces a "Reserva" and "Gran Reserva" (only in very good years), a unique wine made from the unusual varietal Graciano (usually blended with Tempranillo) and the incredibly satisfying "Vina del Olivo" coming from a small parcel planted right in front of the farm, easily recognizable with its very old Olive tree in the middle.




CONTINO Vina del Olivo with the Old Olive tree 
by ©LeDomduVin 2009



The Ebro river curls around the vineyard, forming like a horseshoe-shaped platform gradually expanding and descending from the estate to the river. Protected by surrounding hills and contrasted by the Ebro River, this very particular location, like a "bassin valley, creates an ideal micro-climate protecting and offering some of the best conditions to grow great vines: the vines exposed to the south take a maximum of light from morning to night; the gentle slope descending to the river has natural, perfect drainage; the air remains fresh and moist because of the river proximity (also protecting the vines during winter), the soil is rarely dry even during the extremely hot summer months, allowing a good acidity and freshness in the wines (especially important since 2000, in this decade of moody weather across the globe with extreme temperatures).


I can proudly say that I met and know Jesus Madrazo, the son of Jose Madrazo who bought the property in 1973 in the sole aim to produce high-quality wine from a single vineyard, bottled at the estate, in the league of the best Chateaux from Bordeaux. Following his father's step with even more conviction, Jesus is a great guy, funny, generous and passionate about wine and winemaking. He nurtures his vines and wines like his own kids, taking the time to experiment, comprehend, taste and improve a bit more every year to achieve the highest possible quality wine he can make.




Jesus Madrazo with bottles at CONTINO by ©LeDomduVin 2009
Jesus Madrazo with bottles at CONTINO
by ©LeDomduVin 2009



Over my last 17 years of wine tasting and wine buying experience, many producers told me that "a wine often reflects the character and the personality of the winemaker behind it", well, it is definitely true for Jesus Madrazo, his bonhomie, "bon vivant", as well as its generous, attentive and gentle attitude are evidently reflected in his wines.

I went there to taste the new vintage at the barrel, the current vintage and older bottlings, 5 years in a row between 2003 and 2007. Every time, it was a delight to be there and Jesus knows how to welcome his guests. The last time, in September 2007, my wife, my son and I were eating with him in the garden facing the "Vina del Olivo". We tasted samples of the promising 2004 vintage Reserva, and the barely finished 2006 vintage at the barrel. 

With the lunch, we tasted 2001 Contino Reserva, 2004 "Vina del Olivo" (fantastic, one of my favourite higher-end Riojas in this vintage) and 2005 "Graciano" (a really pleasant surprise and a must-have for wine connoisseurs) served with some Pata Negra Ham and other Spanish specialities. It was a lovely sunny day and a memorable moment. I'm looking forward to my next visit but I'm under the impression that Jesus is no longer working there no more (unless someone can correct me on that).



CONTINO 2004 "Vina del Olivo" and 2005 "Graciano" at CONTINO by ©LeDomduVin 2009
CONTINO 2004 "Vina del Olivo" and 2005 "Graciano"
at CONTINO by ©LeDomduVin 2009



However, I used to sell the last 4 or 5 vintages in the previous store where I used to work, but I didn't have any in the current one. So I decided to buy the currently available vintage of their Reserva and I'm really pleased with it. I bought it because I love the wines from Contino but also for all the good memories that come with it for me.




CONTINO Reserva Label ©LeDomduVin 2009
CONTINO Reserva Label
©LeDomduVin 2009



2000 Contino Reserva is a riper, more concentrated style of Rioja, compare to some of its siblings like "Vina Real" or even "Imperial". 

Due to its richness and long oak ageing process, the wine normally takes quite a few years to settle down, be ready and offer its best expression. However, 2000 being less concentrated and less ripe than recent vintages like 2001, 2004, 2005 and 2007, now is a good time to start enjoying it.

The colour is quite dark and intense. The nose mixes aromas of ripe red cherry and blackberry intermingled with oak, spice, mocha and leather. The palate is smooth, balanced and quite generous despite the bit of age and the vintage. It displays even more red and blackberry flavours, with mocha, minerals, earthy hints and present yet integrated harmonious oak notes. 

The finish, which possesses this dry, oaky earthiness proper to Riojas that I love, is fairly long and really inviting. It revealed most of its complex layers after about 20-30 minutes of decanting. Very nice now, it will still evolve and integrate for a few years, in my opinion, it will keep most of its fruit for the next 3-5 years and should keep for a little while after that.

Pair it with a nice, juicy grilled T-bone steak on Sarments with shallots "emincées" and a dice of melted garlic butter on top, served with a casserole of Pleurottes "sautées à l'ail"...(Is it lunch or dinner time, yet?)

I dedicate this little post to Jesus Madrazo (wherever you are now) and his wines, for his warm welcome each time I came to the estate (especially when I came with my little family) and allowing me (us) to taste with him and share a bit of his time, seating in the garden of this magnificent property and drinking fabulous wines. Gracias Jesus! (for you and for your wines).

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin (a.k.a. Dominique Noël)


For more info about the winery go to www.CVNE.com, or simply google it, many articles have been written on the subject.


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Thursday, March 26, 2009

Marques de Vitoria: an underrated traditional Rioja's winery

Marques de Vitoria: an underrated traditional Rioja's winery


Along with some of my favorites old school, traditional Rioja's wineries - like La Rioja Alta (Vina Ardanza), Lopez de Heredia (Vina Bosconia and Tondonia), Bodegas Riojanas (Gran Albina), CVNE (Vina Real), Marques de Murrieta (Castillo Ygay), Marques de riscal (Reserva and Gran Reserva) -, Marques de Vitoria is also an old school, traditional Rioja's winery. You don't really hear from it because it is very often underated by the prees and overlooked by most Spanish wine lovers.

However, I think that people should pay a bit more attention to this winery. I used to sell the 2002 Crianza which was a bit light, tannic and restraint but overall smooth, balanced and traditional in style, and, in my opinion, quite good for a 2002 vintage (which wasn't a great vintage for Rioja).

I just tasted their 2004 Crianza and 1996 Gran Reserva (that I carry since last year), and loved them both. Here is what I thought about them:

2004 Marques de Vitoria Crianza Rioja Spain
Suggested retail price $11-$14
Distributed by Vinaio Imports in NYC

Clear, medium intensity, ripe dark berry color. Lovely, very expressive nose boasting aromas of red cherry, floral, spices, slight touch of vanilla-oak, mineral, earthy notes of dirt, liquorice, clove and bitter chocolate. Not as attractive on the palate as on the nose, this wine get better with a bit of swirl in the glass, and really start to open up after a few minutes in the glass. A bit light and not as generous as the nose, at first, the palate started to express itself nicely with a bit of time. It has the same type of flavors in the palate. And despite a touch of dry tannins on the finish, I will say that this wine reveals more of this old school elegance and dryer, earthy finish, rather than the heavily overripe and oaky style from the new world oriented other wineries. Somewhat light and simple but well made for the price; the 2004 vintage surely helped a lot too, to add structure and depth.


1996 Marques de Vitoria Gran Reserva Rioja Spain
Suggested retail price $24-$28
Distributed by Vinaio Imports in NYC

Definitely a classic Rioja! it has an interesting of attracting the surrounding light. Clear, clean, medium(+) intensity for the color, especially for a wine of this age, with old brique orange reflects on the rime and dark ripe berry, dark red-brownish autumn leaf color. The nose exposes interesting notes of dark ripe cherry, pig skin (and fat), leather, forest floor, touch of mushroom and ripe figs, with integrated oaky hints. Already in the attack, it is soft, juicy, with layers of flavors like red ripe berry, figs, liquorice, leather, spice, cloves. Long, balanced, super integrated finish with earthy, dry yet juicy tannin, and a touch of spice. Lovely.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Saturday, March 21, 2009

2000 Marques de Murrieta "Castillo Ygay" Reserva Rioja Spain

 
2000 Marques de Murrieta "Castillo Ygay" Reserva Rioja Spain
Suggested retail price $39-$44
Distributed by Empire wine Merchants in NYC

Murrieta is a classic winery from the even more classic and recognized Rioja region in Spain.

Their 2004 Marques de Murrieta Reserva is delightful, dense, earthy, with ripe dark fruit, excellent texture and very good tannin structure. It is, somewhat, a wine with one foot in the classic way and one foot in the more modern way.

2004, in Rioja, was in my opinion a fantastic vintage that offers lot of ripe fruit and richness and that will surely develop nicely for quite a few years. Most 2004 wines that I tasted were young and promising, but very enjoyable after 20 minutes of decantation.

2001, in Rioja, remains, for me, a reference in terms of quality, depth, complexity, strength and elegance. Most 2001 that I tasted were (for most of them) quite exceptional, especially for the more classic wineries but also for the newer style wineries.

Here are some of my favorites Rioja's winery: Marques de Riscal, Bodegas Riojanas, Muga, CVNE, Lopez de Heredia, La Rioja Alta, Palacios Remondo, Bodegas Roda, Fernando Remirez de Ganuza, San Vicente, Sierra Cantabria, Contino...(and a few more...).

However, let's come back to Marques de Murrieta. Their 2000 "Castillo Ygay", a special cuvée like a reserva or grand reserva style, is dense and smooth, complex, rich, balanced and very subtle. The robe has orange taint on the rime, sign of a little bit of age, but nothing wrong for a 2000 vintage. Ripe red cherry, oak, spice, mushroom, forest floor and floral aromas resume the nose. On the palate, it expresses flavors of dark berry and red cherry intermingled with hints of spice, earth and forest floor with integrated vanilla oak touch. The elegant mid-palate has a great acidity elevating the juiciness of the fruit and carrying it until the long-lasting dry finish.

Lovely wine!

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

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