Showing posts with label Yquem. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Yquem. Show all posts

Monday, January 6, 2020

Yquem Collection - Revisiting some old vintages


Yquem Collection

Revisiting some old vintages 


Chateau d'Yquem 1825 and 1826 labels ©LeDomduVin 2019
Chateau d'Yquem 1825 and 1826 labels ©LeDomduVin 2019


A bit more than two years ago, back in August 2017, I wrote a post about the company's "Yquem Collection" (*), proudly displayed at the time in the display cellar of "Le Pan Apicius" the French restaurant of the company work for, located at the ground floor of the company headquarters building in Kowloon Bay. (If interested read the post here)  


In this previous post, I was introducing to you to this quite unique "Yquem Collection" encompassing a bottle of Chateau d'Yquem 1825 and a bottle of Chateau d'Yquem 1856, as well as, at least, 1 or 2 bottles of each vintage produced at Chateau d'Yquem from 1856 to 2007, roughly a bit more than 140 different vintages displayed in that cellar at Le Pan Apicius. 

If interested to see some nice shots I took of some of these bottles, go back to the post (here), I must admit, some of the pictures are really good (I'm proud of myself for that 😁)

However, due to their fragility and their eventual degradation under the bright lights and natural light of the display cellar, I decided, a few months after putting them there, to remove all the vintages prior 1960 from the display cellar, and put these bottles back into a proper cellar with appropriate level of humidity (70-75%) and constant temperatures (12-13°C), and especially less light and fewer disturbances for these old ladies to be able to, once again, rest in peace in a quiet and peaceful environment in the dark.  


   








* To be continued and finished soon *




Santé! Cheers!

LeDomduVin (a.k.a. Dominique Noël)








(*) by "the company" I mean "the company I work for", but to keep it short, I refer it as "the company"



#yquem #yquem Collection @ledomduvin #ledomduvin #sauternes #bordeaux #bordeauxclassic #sweetwines #oldandrareladies #oldandrarevintages #oldandrarewines #oldandrarebottles  #vin  #wine #vino  #wein  #lesphotosadom #lesvideosadom #wineeducation #wineknowledge

Friday, August 25, 2017

Le Pan Apicius Display Cellar - Yquem Collection


Le Pan Apicius Display Cellar - Yquem Collection 




On my last 2 posts (here and here), I was telling you about the Display Cellar of the French Restaurant Le Pan Apicius (Goldin Group) and the fact that it includes old and rare vintages of Petrus, Cheval Blanc, Latour, Lafite, Mouton, Haut-Brion, and other glorious wines.... 

...but more importantly, it includes one of the most unique collections of Chateau d'Yquem in the world outside the Chateau, dating back from 1825 to present with at least one bottle of each vintage produced in between (except between 1825 and 1856)..

Please note that Chateau d'Yquem did not produce vintage 1910, 1915, 1930, 1951, 1952, 1964, 1972, 1974, 1992 and 2012.. and therefore you will not find them on these pictures below. If you happen to find one bottle of one these unproduced vintages in the market, it is a fake... do not buy it (dugh)...

For those of you who will notice the date on the cork of the bottle of 1865 at the bottom of this post and may wonder about the pristine condition of the labels, the bottles of this collection were reconditioned (relabeled, recorked and even refilled (for some)) some in 1992 (and some in 2005 I believe).

The Yquem Collection on display in the cellar represent 143 bottles in total, including136 bottles of a unique vintage from 1825 to 2007 (the collection was bought in Auction a few years ago and also includes magnum size of some of these vintages, which have not been put on display, but that are kept sacredly in one of our other cellars).   

It is quite spectacular and amazing (I must say) to be able to see so many old and rare vintages in one place, more especially on display in a restaurant's wine cellar covering the entire wall of the corridor leading to the main dining room. 

To reassure some of you who may scream of horror seeing all of these lights on such treasurable gems, I just switched them ON for the pictures only. They are normally kept switched off (except some small ones in the background with no direct light on the bottles), and it is my job to make sure that they are kept switched OFF for the bottles to rest in the most ideal environment and conditions (temperature/humidity) to age slowly and properly, and be protected at all time against aggressive lights (even if LED).... 

Trust me, it was already very difficult for me to accept that these Old and Rare Ladies could be put in such display cellar in the first place (as it is far from ideal to preserve them due to many factors eventually affecting them). However, I had to resign myself to accept the unacceptable as it was a request from my chairman....    

In any case, such display cellar is quite unique for a restaurant and visually it is definitely a treat for the eyes of all wine lovers...

Well... I think that visuals are stronger and louder than words, so, here are some pictures of both the Display Cellar and the Yquem Collection for your wondering eyes....

NB: The pictures are unfortunately a little blurry due to the reverberation of the restaurant external lights in the window and the cellar internal yellow lights.. I tried to fix them a little but that is the best I could do... in any case, it gives a good idea of the Yquem Collection

Le Pan Restaurant Display Cellar © LeDomduVin

Le Pan Restaurant Display Cellar © LeDomduVin

Yquem Collection 1825 to 1870 © LeDomduVin

Yquem Collection 1874 to 1890 © LeDomduVin

Yquem Collection 1891 to 1901 © LeDomduVin

Yquem Collection 1902 to 1913 © LeDomduVin

Yquem Collection 1914 to 1925 © LeDomduVin

Yquem Collection 1926 to 1937 © LeDomduVin

Yquem Collection 1938 to 1948 © LeDomduVin

Yquem Collection 1949 to 1962 © LeDomduVin

Yquem Collection 1963 to 1970 © LeDomduVin

Yquem Collection 1971 to 1979 © LeDomduVin

Yquem Collection 1980 to 1990 © LeDomduVin

Yquem Collection 1990 to 2000 © LeDomduVin



As Wine Quality Control Director for the company and Sommelier of my Chairman, I'm the gate and stock keeper of this sanctuary, this Ali Baba cavern full of Liquid Gold. Therefore, I often visit the cellar and inspect these old and rare ladies to make sure they are aging gracefully and peacefully in ideal conditions and without getting harmed by external factors (i.e. light, dust, lack or excess of humidity, unideal temperature variations, etc...) and do not present damage due to these factors (i.e. seepage, leakage, change of color, label, capsule and/or cork degradation).

Here are two bottles that I inspected, 1865 and 1825, corked and reconditioned in 1992, for you to have a closer look....  



Yquem 1865 Capsule © LeDomduVin



Yquem 1865 Bottle © LeDomduVin

Yquem 1865 Capsule © LeDomduVin

Yquem 1865 Capsule © LeDomduVin

Yquem 1865 Capsule © LeDomduVin

Yquem 1865 Label © LeDomduVin



Yquem 1825 Capsule © LeDomduVin

Yquem 1825 Label © LeDomduVin

Yquem 1825 Capsule © LeDomduVin


Yquem 1825 Bottle © LeDomduVin



Yquem 1825 Bottle © LeDomduVin

Yquem 1825 Bottle © LeDomduVin

Et voilà...

Beautiful, aren't they? 

More posts and pictures like those coming soon, so stay tuned... 

NB: I didn't write anything about Chateau d'Yquem or even Pierre Lurton (that I had the chance to meet, eat with and chat with many times over the last 20 years in diverse occasions and countries) as countless articles and books have been written on the subject, and they already have a great website and other's prose tells the story and history of the Chateau like I probably never could...

Santé!

LeDomduVin a.k.a. Dominique Noël

#yquem #yquemcollection #bordeaux #sauternes #lepandisplaycellar #lepanrestaurant #hongkong #ledomduvin




Monday, July 4, 2016

De Grandes Dames | Vins d'Anthologie

De Grandes Dames : Vins d'Anthologie 


Wines of the night | LeDomduVin  © 

About a few weeks ago, on June 21st, prior to the 1945 horizontale (read it here), I had another dinner where I had to prepare, condition, decant, taste and serve some amazing wines.
A selection to dream of (once again) for a Sommelier like me!

In the order of the picture above from left to right:

Haut-Brion 1986
La Mission Haut-Brion 1957
Ausone 1962
Anglus 1989
Mouton Rothschild 1970
L'Evangile 1989
Margaux 1982
Lafite Rothschild 1961
Latour 1959
Cos d'Estournel 1968
Cheval Blanc 1990
Yquem 1990


The dinner occurred at a famous Hong Kong Chinese restaurant, but I need to admit, the food was not up to par with the wines selected for that occasion.

So no point to talk about the food pairing, and let's go straight to the wines, shall we?


Here they are in the order they were served.



La Mission Haut-Brion 1957 | LeDomduVin  ©

La Mission Haut-Brion 1957
It was amazing (no wonder the Haut Brion wines are my favorites) so smoky and earthy, balanced and harmonious and so flavourful... I could have stayed minutes just on the nose. Very much alive and kicking. Earthy nuances of underbrush, mushroom, game, figue, plum, spice and liquorice lingered in the lightly structured yet complex palate up until the finish. Loved it.

(DN-LDDV | 21.06.2016 | Average Retail Price 5,350 HKD | 620 Euros)





Haut-Brion 1986 | LeDomduVin  ©

Haut-Brion 1986
It was succulent and so youthful, but no surprise there as HB is my favorite wine. Almost a shame to open it so early. Earthy, smoky, red and dark berries fruit aromas and flavors with asphalt and stony nuances, so characteristic to Haut-Brion emanated from the glass and coated the rich, structured and textured palate, up to the full and generous finish. Harmonious and balanced by great acidity, quite common to most 86 Bordeaux Left Bank i tasted in the last 20 years, this wine is promising a bright future and still quite a few years in the bottle. Beautiful.

(DN-LDDV | 21.06.2016 | Average Retail Price 3,640 HKD | 425 Euros)




Latour 1959 | LeDomduVin  ©

Latour 1959
What a stunning wine! It had been quite a few months that I had not tried it and previous bottles were good, but this one was far much better than previously tasted and still so vibrant. Complex, long, rich, structured and textured, beautiful nose and stunning palate. Rich, generous, balanced, harmonious and solid enough to age quite a few more years in the bottle. Game, underbrush, mushroom, spice, wood and earth flavors mingled beautifully in the expanding palate and the lingering finish.

(DN-LDDV | 21.06.2016 | Average Retail Price 20,570 HKD | 2395 Euros)





Margaux 1982 | LeDomduVin  ©
Margaux 1982
A beauty, smooth and delicate, fragile but still very much alive and racy.  A ballerina as I like to call it. Floral, earthy nose leading to a velvety palate nuanced with dark berries, sous-bois and earthy tones balanced with great acidity and freshness tending to the gentle, silky finish. Margaux has always been feminine for me, and this 82 confirms it. A great example of what Margaux is all about, more especially in this classic Vintage. Great silhouette.

(DN-LDDV | 21.06.2016 | Average Retail Price 7,910 HKD | 915 Euros)





Lafite Rothschild 1961 | LeDomduVin  ©

Lafite Rothschild 1961
It worried me to begin with as the level was low and the overall conditions acceptable but not great, confirmation came with the cork being totally damp and friable.. color was dull and tasted a bit flat... this bottle was not a good example, though the wine was not bad but has suffered due to the oxidation and eventual old seepage. To bad. I tasted some tremendous examples of Lafite 61 before, but this one is not one of them. The problem with these old vintages of top tear wines, which traveled all around the world and passed from the hands of a collector to another via Auction Houses, is that it is very difficult to define the quality of the wine inside and more especially the conditions in which it has been stored all these years prior being opened. Even with my knowledge and experience of inspecting countless amount of old bottles for more than 20 years, it is always a difficult task. Difficult to prevent bad bottles from time to time despite obvious signs to the eyes of a seasoned Sommelier like me boasting a certain expertise on the subject.

(DN-LDDV | 21.06.2016 | Average Retail Price  13,568 HKD | 1580 Euros)



Ausone 1962 | LeDomduVin  ©
Ausone 1962
What a nice surprise as I never tasted it before and was not sure what to expect, but it was well behaved, on the light side but still complex enough to be really enjoyable.




Angelus 1989 | LeDomduVin  ©

 
Angelus 1989
Good and youthful but still felt to impress somehow despite its complexity.

L'Evangile 1989 | LeDomduVin  ©


L'Évangile 1989
Pretty good, consistent and well structured, and thorough till the end.
Too young somehow and slightly restraint somehow but still very elegant.

Mouton Rothschild 1970 | LeDomduVin  ©


Mouton Rothschild 1970
Much better than expected for a vintage that was not so great... but then again was not that up to the par for a wine pretending to 1st growth position a few vintages later...

Cos d'Estournel 1968 | LeDomduVin  ©

Cos d'Estournel 1968



Château Cheval Blanc 1990 | LeDomduVin  ©

Cheval Blanc 1990


Yquem 1990 | LeDomduVin  ©


Yquem 1990



Corks of the night | LeDomduVin  ©


Trouble | LeDomduVin  ©


Corks of the Night | LeDomduVin  ©



Standing by the ladies of the night | LeDomduVin  ©

...... till next time Ladies

Dominique Noël | LeDomduVin