LeDomduVin: Subtle Power

Subtle power 

I recently selected and served these wines for a private dinner, and I hadn't tasted them in a while. I was expecting them to be rich and exuberant, but in the end, their strength lay in their subtlety. 

Dom Ruinart Champagne Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2010

Dom Ruinart exclusively selects Chardonnay from primarily Grand Cru sites. 90% of the Chardonnay grapes are sourced from the Côte des Blancs (including Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Avize, Chouilly, and Cramant), planted in the Côte’s famous white, calcareous chalky soil where it excels, benefiting from an easterly exposure. The remaining 10% comes from the north-facing Montagne de Reims, specifically from Maison Ruinart's historic vineyard, located in the Grand Cru areas of the village of Sillery.

Dom Ruinart 2010 represents a significant milestone. In its pursuit of excellence, Maison Ruinart extended the wine's aging process to reveal additional layers of flavor. For this cuvée, the oenological team decided to reintroduce cork during aging, confirming its benefits through years of tastings. After at least 9 years ageing on its lees, it is notable that the cork has imparted a woody character to this vintage, in addition to the aromas of grilled almonds and coffee on the nose and palate. Extra Brut with a dosage of 4 g/L.  

Beyond its pale yellow gold color, the nose is aromatic and fresh, offering aromas of yellow and stone fruits mingling with floral, mineral, toasted, and nutty notes. Overall, the palate is generous, ample, and layered, lingering somewhat, although not as long as I would have liked; yet the finish is fresh and elegant, elevated by a subtle bitterness. As it is neither too heavy nor too light, it is a good champagne to bring to any occasion, ideal as an aperitif with appetizers. A real quaffer!    

Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres 2020

Vincent Bitouzet’s family history in Burgundy spans the last two centuries, with the Bitouzets among the earliest families in the area to bottle their own wines. Vincent’s grandfather received awards for his winemaking in 1860. When Vincent married Annie Prieur, they merged parts of their family estates to establish a renowned domaine. Now, their son Francois Bitouzet, Vincent and Annie’s son, is actively collaborating with his parents.

Based in Volnay, with significant holdings in Meursault, the domaine covers 12 hectares, roughly four of which are planted with Chardonnay, and the remaining eight with Pinot Noir. They practice organic viticulture, and the harvest is manually done. Classic Burgundian winemaking methods are used, using only indigenous yeasts.

The Bitouzet-Prieur family owns just over a quarter-hectare of Chardonnay, planted in 1983, in the lower part of this renowned premier cru "Les Perrières Dessous," located right above "Les Charmes" on the slope. The Meursault-Perrières is probably the most dazzling mineral wine in their collection. While it can be closed when young, it gradually opens up into a stunning white Burgundy with layered complexity. 

I was unsure what to expect from this wine, as it was my first time trying it.  I previously tried other wines from Bitouzet-Prieur, but never this particular one. I'm not sure why I always want to say "Bizoutet" ("Bizouter" is a slang in French that means "kissing" or "giving kisses", which would be a nice and funny name) instead of "Bitouzet". 

However, I was pleasantly surprised, as instead of being a powerhouse of creamy butter, popcorn, and toasted oak flavors, as some Meursault can be (those that are more New World-style than the New World Chardonnays themselves), this wine is all about subtlety, refinement, and elegance. The oak treatment is present but barely noticeable, as only about 25-30% new oak is used during its 16-month aging process, making it significantly more palatable and enjoyable than those using 100% new oak.  

At first, I misinterpreted its subtlety and elegance as a lack of body and weight. I wanted more from it, more fruit, more substance, more backbone. However, it then began to reveal itself after a few seconds. I tasted it again, and then it hit me. It was beautiful and charming. Fresh, light, and elegant yet complex and layered, it was like a ballerina, showcasing power, balance, precision, and sophistication in a subtle and graceful manner. If timid, the nose is fresh and mineral, with aromas of yellow fruits and citrus, combined with a gentle hint of buttery, toasted oak and herbal nuances. The palate is soft, silky, elegant, and refined, gently expanding towards the long, fresh, and mineral finish. Loved it!                   

Drouhin-Laroze Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru 2016

Domaine Drouhin-Laroze has been a family-owned estate for over 150 years, featuring numerous prestigious appellations in the top-tier Premier Cru and Grand Cru categories, which showcases a rich heritage. Today, Philippe and Christine Drouhin, along with their children, manage the estate.

Drouhin-Laroze's Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru comes from an east-facing plot at 260 meters elevation, where the vines were planted in 1973 and 1986. The monks of Bèze established a chapel at that location in 1155. It was reconstructed in 1457 before eventually being destroyed, and it is the origin of the name of the appellation.

Those who follow me for a while know that I'm a huge fan of wines with "Chambertin" in the name. Why? The wines of Gevrey-Chambertin, from the village wines to the Premier Crus and Grands Crus, are some of the most versatile wines of all Burgundy. For a Sommelier like me, they are the easiest to pair with. And this Chapelle-Chambertin from Drouhin Laroze confirmed this rule. 

The 2016 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru features approximately 30% whole-bunch fruit, which adds complexity, texture, and structure. Right after opening, the nose displays fresh aromas of ripe red cherries and berries, mingling with floral, mineral, oaky, and earthy notes, reminiscent of a forest floor, but springier than autumnal. Light to medium-bodied, the palate remains quite subtle and could have benefited from a bit more volume and substance. And yet, it is clean, focused, refined, elegant, and sophisticated in its subtlety, with a finely textured and structured palate that is well-balanced between fruit and acidity, and a silky mouthfeel and fine tannins, all culminating in a lingering mineral earthy finish. Loved it.  

Chateau Lynch-Bages Pauillac Bordeaux 2005

Château Lynch-Bages, situated at the entrance to Pauillac, is a notable estate that has significantly influenced the history of the Médoc wine region. The terroir surrounding the area and the old village of Bages has been recognized since the 16th century, but it achieved broader fame in the 18th century.

According to "The Wine Insider," the Dejean family sold the property in 1728 to Pierre Drouillard. In 1749, Drouillard passed the estate to his daughter, Elizabeth, who was married to Thomas Lynch. That’s how the estate became part of the Lynch family, where it remained for seventy-five years and later on inspired the name "Lynch Bages". (*)

In the 1930s, Jean-Charles Cazes, already managing Les Ormes de Pez in St. Estèphe, took on a lease for Lynch Bages' vineyards. The Cazes family had a long legacy in Bordeaux dating back to the late 1800s. Jean-Charles Cazes later bought both estates just before World War II. Since then, Lynch Bages and Les-Ormes-de-Pez have remained under the Cazes family's management. (*)

Jean-Michel Cazes, who started as an engineer in Paris, entered the wine industry and began managing the estate in 1973. Soon after, he modernized every aspect of Lynch Bages. Jean-Michel Cazes met more people, traveled more often, and promoted his wines worldwide like no other Château owner. Lynch Bages is now one of the most popular and beloved brands in Bordeaux wine, thanks to Jean Michel Cazes's relentless efforts. It’s interesting to note that Jean-Michel Cazes was one of the first château owners to start promoting their wine in China in 1986. (*)

In June 1989, Lynch Bages inaugurated its new winemaking facilities, perfectly timed to celebrate one of the finest vintages they've ever produced. That same year also saw the opening of the Cordeillan-Bages hotel and restaurant. A few years afterward, the renovated Village de Bages, featuring various shops, was established.(*)

In 2006, Jean-Michel's son, also named Jean-Charles Cazes, became the managing director of Château Lynch-Bages. Jean-Michel Cazes continued to lead the family's wine and tourism division. Thanks to ongoing promotion in the Asian market, Château Lynch-Bages remains one of the strongest brands in the region, especially in China.(*)

A benchmark among fine Pauillac wines and one of the most recognizable Bordeaux labels, especially in the US and Asia, Château Lynch-Bages boasts over 90 hectares of vineyard rooted in the region's characteristic Garonne and lower Gironde estuary gravel soil. The hand-picked grapes are initially sorted in the vineyard and then usually aged for 15 months in about 80% new oak barrels.

A blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot, Lynch-Bages benefited from the notoriously warm, sunny, and dry 2005 vintage. The lower yields, caused by dry conditions and water stress, limited production but improved ripening quality, resulting in high-quality grapes. 

The 2005 Lynch-Bages is very seductive and aromatic on both the nose and the palate. In the glass, the color is deep ruby with a slightly brownish hue. On the nose, it boasts a melange of dark berries, cassis, cedar, graphite, and forest floor aromas, with floral notes (such as violet) and earthy undertones. The palate is unexpectedly soft and gentle, medium-bodied and silky, with present yet fine and well-integrated, ripe tannins that add both texture and structure. It has enough acidity to keep it fresh and lively, and is balanced with the ripeness of the fruit, leading to a long, persistent, and delicious earthy finish. Loved it! 

And, once again, being a Pauillac spawned from the 2005 vintage, I was waiting for a bigger wine with more volume and weight, and yet its strength lay in its subtlety.  Well done!     

These are four elegant, refined, stylish wines with a soft expression and a subtle power. 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

(*) Source: https://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/bordeaux-wine-producer-profiles/bordeaux/pauillac/lynch-bages/ 

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LeDomduVin: The unavoidable trio: Champagne, Burgundy, and Bordeaux.

 

The unavoidable trio: 

Champagne, Burgundy, and Bordeaux.

No matter what, most Sommeliers I know always end up with this combination at some point or another.

Of course, a Sommelier can always venture into other classic wine regions to find some great wines (often at lesser prices) in France (e.g., Loire, Rhone, Jura, Alsace, Languedoc-Roussillon, South-West, etc...) or expand its choices to Italy, Spain, Germany, Portugal, or even California, Oregon, and why not South America, South Africa, Australia, and even New Zealand.

And yet, most Sommeliers I know (French or not) will always go back to the classics of Champagne, Burgundy (white & red), and Bordeaux (primarily for red). It is an undeniable fact!

Why? Because no matter what people may say or think, it always works!

Ok, I admit that you or the host can only do it amid being able to spend a certain budget, but still, this unavoidable trio usually pleases everyone.

I mean, what's not to like?

Everyone loves a good glass of champagne to start with. White Burgundy wines are perfect for appetizers, starters, shellfish, fish, and white meat dishes (and cheese!).

And, despite everyone complaining about the fact that there are too many to choose from and their prices (even though there are some excellent bargains to be found in Bordeaux), a good red wine from Bordeaux is always a crowd-pleaser!

Henriot Champagne Millesime 2008 

I have said it before: Henriot is one of my favorite champagne houses. Is it the richest or the most complex? No. Yet, their Cuvées are really good, well-priced, and reliable. And this 2008 vintage was a great example.  

A blend of 100% Premier and Grand Cru grapes, consisting of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir, aged for a minimum of six years on the lees, with a dosage of at least 6g/l, the Henriot Millesime 2008 reflects the outstanding quality of the vintage. This is also an important vintage that has received more attention than previous ones in the vineyard and the cellar, as it marks the 200th anniversary of Maison Henriot (1808-2008).

In the glass, it displays an attractive pale golden color with tiny, delicate bubbles. The nose boasts fresh citrus and yellow fruit aromas, floral and mineral notes, and hints of honey and toasted bread. The palate is fresh and light, yet complex, elegant, and finely structured, offering enticing flavors of citrus and yellow fruits developing with a silky texture, balanced by excellent acidity and minerality from the attack to the mid-palate, leading toward the long and refreshing finish. Love it.

Chateau de Meursault Meursault-Perrieres Premier Cru Burgundy 2019

Situated in the village of Meursault in the heart of the Côte de Beaune, Château de Meursault has a vineyard history spanning a thousand years, dating back to the 11th century. The estate owns and produces wines from Meursault, Pommard, Puligny-Montrachet, Beaune, and Corton. Its 67 hectares of vineyards are spread over a hundred plots, including 6 Grands Crus, 20 Premiers Crus, and about a dozen village and regional appellations like Aloxe-Corton, Beaune, Volnay, and Pommard.

The estate in Meursault spans 10 hectares and includes the Château, a stunning 18th-century Italian-inspired building fully renovated in 2024, a conservatory, and a botanical park. Additionally, 8 hectares are dedicated to the Chateau's flagship vineyard, the "Clos du Château," surrounded by a dry-stone wall. The entire estate is committed to biodiversity and sustainable development.

The estate also has magnificent Cistercian cellars, excavated from the 12th to the 19th centuries, covering 3,500 m² beneath the Château and its outbuildings. The larger cellar and the former winery are currently being renovated and will be utilized to vinify red wines from the 2026 harvest.

Classified as a "Meursault Premier Cru," this "Meursault-Perrières" is produced from two parcels totaling 1.12 Hectares (2.7 acres), planted with Chardonnay on a hill's mid-slope on hard Jurassic limestone, with east/south-east exposure, located south of the village of Meursault. This warm area in the vineyard is where the limestone brings minerality and balance to the wine.

The vineyard was named "Perrières" after the ancient quarries (which still exist and are visible), where limestone was extracted to build the various buildings of the surrounding villages. This limestone soil imparts a dense and mineral character to the wine.

After manual sorting, pressing, and settling, alcoholic fermentation in oak barrels lasts about 10 days. The wine is then aged on lees for 18 months, with 33% of the barrels being new and the others being one or two years old. The lees are stirred twice a month during the first six months, enhancing richness and complexity.

In the glass, the Chateau de Meursault Meursault-Perrieres 2019 is a brilliant, pale yellow with golden and green reflections. The nose displays aromas of yellow fruits mingling with mineral, floral, and citrusy notes and oaky, toasted hints. The palate is surprisingly fresh and light, with razor-sharp, zesty, limey acidity, yellow fruits, and citrus expanding nicely and generously from the attack to the mid-palate. The finish is long and mineral. 

Although generous and zesty, it lacks a bit of the amplitude and the oaky, buttery coating effect I usually like to taste in Meursault. Yet it compensates it with its freshness, sharpness, focus, and minerality. Nicely done.      

Chateau L'Evangile Pomerol Bordeaux 2016

Domaines Barons de Rothschild Lafite acquired L’Évangile in 1990 from the Ducasse family, who wanted to ensure the estate's continuity of care and sustainability.

Chateau L’Evangile is a house made from Bordeaux limestones in the heart of the vineyards, where bees, horses, winegrowers, and farmers congregate. It is the first estate among the Domaines Barons de Rothschild Lafite to employ organic farming methods.

All the vines have been replanted and are adapting well on this plateau located southeast of Pomerol, which features a unique geological anomaly: a long strip of gravel, a rare soil on which the vineyard of Château L’Évangile thrives.

The vineyard enjoys an excellent location. It is bordered to the north by the vines of Château Pétrus and separated by a small road from Cheval Blanc in Saint-Émilion to the south. It consists of 22 hectares, with 43 plots named after their environment (Maison, Cuvier), locality (Catusseau, Chantecaille, Jean Faure), or layout (La Pointe).

The vineyard is divided into three different terroirs. The top of the plateau consists of “Pelosol,” characterized by swelling clays. In the middle, the soils are mainly gravel-clay and gravel-sand. Finally, the soil is predominantly sandy in the lower section of the appellation.

The vineyard is mainly planted with Merlot (79%), complemented by Cabernet Franc (20%) and a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon (1%). The plots are largely covered in grass. The property also features beehives and supports significant biodiversity along its 2 km of hedges.

Since 2020, Domaines Barons de Lafite Rothschild has entrusted the estate's management to Juliette Couderc.

Chateau L’Évangile 2016 is a blend of 92% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc, aged for 18 months in new oak barrels made by the Tonnellerie des Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) in Pauillac.

The winter of 2016 was the warmest and rainiest ever recorded! Bud break occurred at the end of March, and mid-flowering happened on June 5. The summer was hot and very dry. Fortunately, the water reserves accumulated during winter kept the vines from suffering any stress, but as a result, yields at Evangile were quite low for this vintage. The grapes finished ripening in September in mild weather, with some rain and cool nights, which preserved the grapes’ freshness and produced an exceptional vintage.

When I opened the wine, the cork smelled nice, yet it appeared subdued once in the glass. I proceeded to the “avinage” of the decanter, then decanted it and let it rest. In the glass, it displayed a dark color with violet reflections. The nose started to reveal itself and gained intensity, boasting fresh black fruits, berries aromas, earthy, floral, mineral notes, and hints of spices and oak. On the palate, the attack was fresh and relatively light. The mid-palate appeared a bit fuller with a silky texture, fairly well balanced between the fruit, acidity, and tannins, yet it lacked substance for my palate. The finish was quite short with slightly green, vegetal hints.

Aparte on the Chateau L'Evangile 2016

Strange, as it definitely contrasted with the scores and reviews I had read about it. Most critics and even the Chateau’s website talk about a full-bodied, generous, ripe, dark, intense, and powerful wine. This is not what I tasted that day.

I even tasted it more than 2 hours after decanting, and it did not gain much power or density. As I wanted to make sure it was not my palate, I had two colleagues taste it, and they also came to the same conclusion: relatively lean, short, slightly vegetal on the finish. It is not worth the 95-100 point range from the various critics (in our opinion).

Yet, the bottle had a good provenance and spent the last four years in the cellar. Was it in a down phase that day? Does it need more time to open in the decanter? It seems strange, as I usually like Chateau l’Evangile, and 2016 in Bordeaux is a really good, fresh, and very approachable vintage, based on my experience of all the 2016 Bordeaux wines I opened recently.

It was a little disappointing, as I opened this bottle of Chateau L’Evangile 2016 only after I had opened Chateau Lafite 2015 (same ownership) a few days earlier, which also disappointed me and definitely not worth the price and scores (see my previous post for comments and description on Lafite 2015).

Is it just me? Obviously not, as in both cases, I had my colleagues tasting them.

Let me know what you think in the comments.

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Karaoke Night!

Karaoke night! 

I titled this post "Karaoke Night" as I served these wines during a private dinner where the host and the guests sang Karaoke songs between each dish, from videos displaying lyrics on 3 big screens on the surrounding walls. It was a relaxed and casual night. A Karaoke Night!   

Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Extra-Brut 2012

Beyond its pale golden color and attractive aromas of yellow fruits, stone fruits, and toasted brioche, it is rich, dense, intense, complex, ample, and layered, with an excellent balance and a long, satisfying finish. What a beautiful Champagne!

Bernard Bonin Meursault Vieilles Vignes 2019

Pale goldenish color. It boasts aromas of lemon zest, apple, and stone fruits mingling with chamomile, gingerbread, buttery toasted oak, and mineral notes. Medium-bodied, Fresh, zesty, complex, and elegant, with excellent structure and good tension on the palate. Focus from the attack to the long and crisp finish. Love it. 

Palmer Margaux 2016

A blend of 47% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 6% Petit Verdot, Palmer 2016 is a great combination of power, richness, complexity, freshness, balance, and elegance. Deep, inky color in the glass. The nose displays fresh, fragrant, concentrated blackberries, earth, and flower aromas. Beyond its fresh and juicy attack, the palate expands and gains in density, intensity, richness, and complexity, balanced by excellent acidity and framed with present, chewy, yet integrated tannins. The finish is youthful and very long, demonstrating aging potential. Although probably too young, Palmer 2016 is incredibly approachable and drinkable now. A sophisticated and classy wine. 

Bernard Dugat-Py Charmes Chambertin 1996

This bottle was a gift to the host from one of the guests, and although I was very tempted to open it, I did not, so I can't tell you about it. Next time, maybe.😊👍🍷

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

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LeDomduVin: A Charming Meursault

A charming Meursault 

I opened this bottle for an afternoon drink, and it was perfect! 

Michel Bouzereau Meursault-Charmes 1er Cru "Les Charmes Dessus" 2019

Fresh, crisp, pleasant, easy, gentle, and charming, with a good vibrancy. Medium-bodied, layered, and well-balanced between the yellow fruits, the chalky minerality, the zesty acidity, and the light butteriness. Nothing too extravagant or over the top, just a really well-crafted, quaffable Meursault-Charmes. It is a steal at this price compared to its peers. Highly recommended. 

I loved it on its own, as it is so crisp and easy to drink. Yet, it will pair well with appetizers, white fish, and white meat. 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

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Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2024, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).