Jean-Pierre Robinot: L'Opera des vins "Les Années Folles" (Jasnieres) Coteaux du Loir Vin de Table Natural Pétillant France

Jean-Pierre Robinot - Les Vignes de l'Angevin - Vins Naturels

Before he established the winery in 2002, for nearly 15 years, Jean-Pierre Robinot offered, to its customers, natural wines in his Paris wine bistro-restaurant called: "l'Ange Vin" (literally "Angel Wine", but more especially a play of words for the word "Angevin", which is the name of the local people from the Anjou region, or the town of Angers, capital of Anjou, like Jean-Pierre).

Fascinated by the natural wines in general and the Loire wines in particular, he returned to his native village of "Chahaignes", located in the Sarthe, about 100 kilometers northeast of the city of Angers and 6.5 kilometers northwest of the village of "La Chartre sur le Loir", halfway between Le Mans and Tours, to establish a vineyard and craft natural wines from the "Vallée du Loir" (and no, this isn't a mistake).

Not to be mistaken with the "Vallée de la Loire", the "Vallée du Loir" is the valley formed by the banks of the "Loir" river, a tributary of the "Sarthe" river, taking its source west of Chartres, north of Illiers-Combray. The "Loir" joins the Sarthe river in Briollay, a village north of the city Angers, which in turn joins the Maine river that finally fall into the Loire.

The vineyards of the Loir Valley begins with the AOC Coteaux du Vendôme, through the AOC Jasnières ending with the AOC Coteaux du Loire. The production area consists now of 400 hectares, while many centuries ago, 5,000 hectares of vines were planted and used; but with time, some sites were abandoned and most others were mainly destroyed by the Phylloxera plague between 1860s and 1930s.

In 2002, he started to acquire quite a few plots of fallow lands in the appellation Coteaux du Loir, not planted over a century for some. Within the first few years, and the intention to slowly and gradually build his Domaine and after a first clearing operation, it already planted two hectares of vines in the appellation Coteaux du Loir. It also took care of some other vines planted on AOC Jasnières and AOC Coteaux du Loir red. Now, he possesses about 10 hectares of lands on steep slopes, which include great Terroirs.

• The objective he set for himself is ambitious: organic farming and natural winemaking and vinification processes, with yields limited to 25 / 30 hectoliters per hectare to obtain great complexity.

• The ground is plowed, the plants are fed with natural composts and weeding chemicals are banned.

• Vinification is done slowly, with almost no sulfur or without the addition of other products.

• White wines from the Chenin grape are very gently pressed. They are aged on their lees in oak barrels for at least 12 months.

• The red wines are from the Pineau d'Aunis grape variety. After a long fermentation, they finish their ageing on the lees in oak barrels for at least a year.

The resulting wines are very long and complex with great ageing potential, because of their great balance and structure. Yet, last updated by the end of 2009, the winery website doesn't do any favors to Jean-Pierre, in the sense that not all produced wines are represented on it. Hence, it is difficult to really realize how many wines he, in fact, produces. Only five appear on the website now (Lumiere de Silex, Jasnieres, Le Regard du Loir, Alter & Go, and Concerto d'Oniss), yet, "Les Années Folles" isn't there, "Symphonie du Temps"and "Cuvée Juliette Robinot" either.

In fact, there are a few more Cuvées than those; but it seems that it depends of the quality of the vintage and of his mood too. Jean-Pierre is definitely a personage, who makes great wines that need a bit more coverage. His grapes come from the different AOC(s) of the Vallée du Loir on which his vineyards are planted, yet they are mostly labeled Vin de Table or Vin de Pays due to the fact that his wines are so, ... somewhat atypical and certain of their features don't get along with the less generic AOC rules.


I will take a picture of the label when the wine will be at the store, because I forgot when I tasted it and the label for this particular wine changes depending on the vintage. To be completed soon.

2009 Jean-Pierre Robinot: L'Opera des vins "Les Années Folles" (Jasnieres) Coteaux du Loir Vin de Table Natural Pétillant France
Suggested retail price $16-$19
Imported / distributed by Zev Rovine selections in NYC

"Les Années Folles" is a natural "Pétillant" (lightly sparkling wine), made by Méthode Ancestrale, with disgorgement done by hand and no addition of dosage with sugar, just a refill of the bottles with the same wine, which makes it fairly dry. He makes about 160-200 cases at the most of this wines, depending of the vintage.

A blend of 80% Pineau d'Aunis and 20% Chenin Blanc from the AOC Jasnières, the light pinkish hue in the glass comes from minimal skin contact of the Pineau d'Aunis, a red grape variety, also locally known as "Chenin Noir", indigenous and predominantly grown in the Loire Valley, more especially in the Anjou and Touraine region.

Behind its medium light yellow-pinkish color, "Les Années Folles" (the crazy years) offers a funky nose where yeasty, farmy aromas intermingle with goat cheese, nutty, apple and yellow core fruit notes. The palate is much more attractive and inciting than the nose, which is definitely very interesting, yet could be slightly off putting at first, for some people. It presents freshness, great acidity, lovely balance and texture. Excellent in my opinion, this natural wine will surely generate mixed opinions, but it is worth trying and be surprised.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin,

Info taken, translated and edited from the winery website at http://lesvignesdelangevin.vinsnaturels.fr and from a discussion with Zev Rovine when he came to the store to taste us on a few wines from his portfolio.


Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

NV Suzuki Shuzouten Brewery Hideyoshi "La Chamte" sparkling Sake (280ml)

NV Suzuki Shuzouten Brewery Hideyoshi "La Chamte" sparkling Sake (280ml)

To follow from my previous post on Sake, here is a new Hideyoshi Sake, sparkling this time, which should arrive at the store very soon. It was introduce to me at the last visit of Linda Noel Kawabata and Mr. Naoki Suzuki, owner and 19th heir of the Suzuki family, founders of Suzuki Shuzouten Brewery Hideyoshi Brand, in the Akita region, northern Japan.



Surely one my favorite Sake brewery, amongst all the ones that I tasted lately. And with that sparkling Sake, Mr. Suzuki and Hideyoshi did it again. They succeeded to craft a really enjoyable, versatile and seamlessly good sparkling Sake.



NV Suzuki Shuzouten Brewery Hideyoshi "La Chamte" sparkling Sake (280ml)
Suggested retail price (to be confirmed on arrival when in stock at the store, supposedly by the middle or the end of March)
Imported/distributed by ASPEC (Akita Sake Promotion and Export Council) thru Winebow, Inc. in NYC

Rice: 100% Akita Komachi
Polishing off: 65%
Alcohol content: 8%
Profile: Off-dry
Bottle size: 280ml

Pale, clear, yellow-greenish color with tiny multiples, delicate bubbles. Rather fresh, the nose boasts yeasty, slightly farmy aromas of hay, chamomile, wheat and nut mingled with mineral notes. Somewhat quite different from the nose, yet friendly and really enjoyable, (almost dangerous, it's so good!), the fragrant palate is young, fresh, delicate, light and fruity. It offers mineral, peachy tones in a fresh, balanced, harmonious, gentle profile up until the end. I love it.

For those of you that may remain skeptical after sniffing it the first time, know that the yeasty nose give way to a charming, rather simple yet extremely enjoyable and palatable drinks. It is too easy to drink, you will surely finish the bottle without realizing it. Highly recommended, drink this sparkling Sake, chilled, as a refreshment by the end of the afternoon or/ and as an aperitif.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

For more info about Suzuki Shuzouten Brewery Hideyoshi Brand you can read my last post at http://www.ledomduvin.com/2011/03/little-introduction-to-sake-japanese.html and you can also go to ASPEC (Akita Sake Promotion and Export Council) website at www.aspec-sake.com

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

NV Sieur D’Arques Toques et Clochers Crémant de Limoux Languedoc France

It is the end of the year, and very soon, you will have to think about celebrating with friends and/or family, and if not done already, start to plan the food and beverages for your parties whether at home or invited elsewhere.

Generally, in these festive times, what comes to mind is very often the noise of a cork popping up from a bottle of bubbly jealously chosen or kept for these special occasions.

However, due to the recession and lack of motivation to spend a lot of money, unable to foresee the immediate future of the next 3-6 months to come, people in general will surely be more cautious this year than any previous year. They will surely spend less, but they will spend a little bit still. It is in our nature.

Humans tend to celebrate whenever they can, which lately doesn’t happen so often, or let say, less often compared to a few years ago. Yet, we need these moments of joy around family and friends. It important. It is tradition. It is a good excuse. Therefore, people in general will search for very good values, as the last 6-9 months have demonstrated huge increases in sales for still wines under $15 and sparkling wines under $25-$30.

They are plenty of good Champagne around $25-$35, here are just a few of my favorite from the store selection (www.heightschateau.com):

• Caravelle NV Brut Cuvèe Nina,
  
• Chapuy NV Brut Rose Tradition,
  
• Chapuy NV Brut Tradition,
  
• Chapuy NV Reserve Blanc De Blancs,
  
• De Montoux NV Brut Champagne,
  
• Demilly De Baere NV Brut Carte D' Or,
  
• Demoiselle Brut NV Tête de Cuvée,
  
• Duval Leroy Brut,
  
• Ellner Reserve Brut,
  
• Gardet Brut NV Cuvée Saint Flavy,
  
• Gardet NV Pol Gardere Brut,
  
• Gonet & Fils NV Reserve Brut Blanc,
  
• Gonet & Fils NV Rose Premier Cru Bru,
  
• Gosset Brut NV Excellence,
  
• Marc Hebrart Brut,
• Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Blue Label, and more...

Yet, it seems that Prosecco, Cava, Crémant and other sparkling wines under $20, are now more subject to particular attention from the customers.

Therefore, always in my quest to introduce you to lesser known regions, producers and wines at excellent value, I would like to introduce you to a delightful sparkling wine from the Languedoc: Crémant de Limoux from Toques et Clochers (Sieur D’Arques). Sieur d’Arques is a winery recognized and often prized for its excellent Blanquette de Limoux wines.

But what is Blanquette de Limoux?

Blanquette de Limoux is a fairly crisp, friendly and delightful sparkling white wine produced around the city of Limoux, about 26 kilometers southwest of the magnificent medieval town of Carcassonne, in the southwest of France, near the “Pyrénées Orientales”. Neighbor to Corbières and located in the northwestern part of Roussillon and western part of the Languedoc, this appellation is often considered part of the Languedoc area.

The name Blanquette de Limoux has been used for a long time for the sparkling wines from Limoux. "Blanquette" actually just means "white" in the local Occitan language. Blanquette de Limoux can contain three grape varieties: Mauzac, which must constitute a minimum of 90% of the wine, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. Prior to the 1990 introduction of the Crémant de Limoux AOC, the use of Mauzac was optional. The change to the mandatory minimum of 90% Mauzac in the AOC regulations of Blanquette de Limoux was seen as a safeguard in maintaining the traditional style of Blanquette de Limoux and preserving the use of the local Mauzac grape which is declining in worldwide plantings. The taste of this Mauzac based wine is unique, with apple flavors and distinctive aromas of fresh cut grass that can be identified in blind tastings.

Vinification

The grape varieties are vinified separately before being assembled and bottled. Just before bottling, a liqueur de tirage is added to the blend so that a second fermentation will take place in the bottle. The carbon dioxide produced during this second fermentation is trapped in the bottle and gives the wine its effervescence. After nine months, the bottles are opened and disgorged before a final corking.

And what is Crémant de Limoux?

When the term Crémant was introduced for non-Champagne sparkling wines in France, an AOC for more "modern" (or internationally styled) sparkling wines, was created in 1990. The origin of that decision occurred a year earlier, in 1989, when the producers of Limoux had to decided on whether or not they wanted to maintain the traditional makings of Blanquette de Limoux based on Mauzac or relax the AOC regulations to allow the introduction of more Chenin blanc and Chardonnay to create internationally recognized flavors. Limoux producers were split on what direction they wanted to go, so the provisional appellation of Crémant de Limoux was introduced to allow the producers to make whichever style of sparkling wine that they preferred and still sell it under an AOC designation. A deadline was set in 1994 for the least used AOC designation to be phased out but the deadline passed without Crémant de Limoux or Blanquette de Limoux making significant progress and both AOC continue to co-exist today.

These Crémant de Limoux wines differ primarily from Blanquette de Limoux in their grape composition with Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc as the main varieties. Together they are not to exceed 90% of the wines. For Chenin blanc, a minimum of 20% and a maximum of 40% must be used. Mauzac and Pinot Noir are accessory grape varieties and may not exceed 20% together with Pinot Noir itself not exceeding 10%. Thus, Crémant de Limoux contains 40-70% Chardonnay, 20-40% Chenin Blanc, 10-20% Mauzac and 0-10% Pinot Noir. AOC regulations dictate that the wine must be aged for a least a year on the lees prior to disgorgement. Over 40 villages around the city of Limoux are permitted to make Crémant de Limoux.

NV Sieur D’Arques Toques et Clochers Crémant de Limoux Languedoc France

Sieur d’Arques is a winery located in the western part of the village of Limoux, on the avenue du Mauzac (which is the name of the main grape variety used for the production of Blanquette de Limoux).

The History of the Languedoc vineyard dates back to the 5 th century BC when the Greeks first introduced grape vines and their cultural practices. It was in 1531, one century before Dom Pérignon, that wines from Limoux stepped onto the world stage thanks to Benedictine nuns from the St Hilaire Abbey, a neighboring village, who created the first sparkling wine in the world: La Blanquette de Limoux.

The earliest written references to Blanquette de Limoux can be traced back to the lord of the region, “le Sieur d’Arques” who swigged down “flasks of Blanquette” to celebrate his victories. Four centuries later, in 1946, the founding winemakers of this winery christened their wine, Sieur d’Arques. Situated at the crossroads between two climatic influences, the Limoux terroir is rich in diversity.

The enologists and winemakers of Sieur d’Arques, pioneers in parcel-based terroir selection, have taken the full measure of this invaluable diversity. For over twenty years, they have been committed to an innovative, quality-focused approach highlighting four major Terroirs and selecting only those plots for which the micro-climates, soils, topographies and elevations are suited to the production of healthy, ripe grapes.

Hence, to the east, the Mediterranean influence produces a dry, hot climate. To the west, the temperate climate is due to the influence of the Atlantic, which guarantees both optimal sun and enough rain all year. In the center of the appellation, the two influences merge, while a cooler climate dominates in the south closer to the Pyrénées. To this must be added the mainly limestone clay soil and vineyards spread out from 200 to 500 meters elevation. These are the essential characteristics of a land full of promise ideal for crafting innovative wines.

Les Vignerons du Sieur d’Arques have optimized the exceptional diversity of their 2800 hectares of vineyard to produce supremely delicate, elegant sparkling wines, great white Chardonnays and racy reds highly characteristic of this singular Terroir.

Since 1990, this identity, unique in France, has distinguished the excellence of wines and winemakers of Sieur d’Arques in Limoux. With its four Terroirs and forty two Church bell towers, Limoux benefits from an exceptional situation in Languedoc symbolized by the Toques & Clochers auction, held every year, that continues to inspire the winemakers to give the best of themselves to produce exceptional wines.




NV Sieur D’Arques Toques et Clochers Crémant de Limoux Languedoc France
Suggested retail price $17-$20
Imported/Distributed by …

Made from a blend of Chardonnay, Chenin and Mauzac, this crémant (or sparkling wine) is the product of grapes carefully selected at each step of production.

It shows a pale yellow color with green reflects and delicate, refined bubbles. The nose is quite expressive, clean and fresh, dry, with aromas of white flowers and white core fruit intermingled with white blossom notes and slightly toasted, brioche hints. Nice, delicate and focus, the palate is bright and lively offering the same white flowers and core fruit flavors. The finish is inviting and warm with yeasty, toasted notes along with brioche and spicy hints. A delicious, versatile sparkling to enjoy for any occasion. It is a sure value under $20. The delicacy of Chardonnay greatly contributes to its elegance and harmony. Recognized by top Sommeliers and wine boutiques, this sparkling wine will marry most refine dishes.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Info about Blanquette et Crémant de Limoux partly taken and edited from Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limoux_wine) and all info about the winery mostly taken and barely edited from the winery website at www.sieurd’arques.com

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

Bugey & NV Renardat-Fache Vin du Bugey Cerdon Méthode Ancestrale France

Bugey & NV Renardat-Fache Vin du Bugey Cerdon Méthode Ancestrale France

After my previous post on Banyuls to welcome Spring season and in the mean time Easter, here is a post about a rather underrated sparkling wine from the eastern part of France, which will surely enhance your chocolate delights for Pâques.

The wine in question is a slightly sweet sparkling rosé from Cerdon, a small village located in a remote mountainous area in the eastern part of France, near the Swiss border, in the département of “Ain”.

Cerdon is one of the villages that constitute the appellation of Bugey, a fairly unknown wine region nestled in the foothills of the French alps, near Savoie, about 90 kms northeast-east of Lyon and about 80 kms southwest of Geneva.

A high proportion of Bugey wines are white, but white, rosé, red and sparkling wines are all produced in Bugey. The aromatic white variety Altesse, locally called Roussette, produces some of the more noted wines from the area.

Bugey produces various wines under the 2 major VDQS appellations: Roussette du Bugey and Vin du Bugey (VDQS: Vin Délimité de Qualité Superieure), which is itself divided in 3 Crus and other sub-appellations (also VDQS) producing different type of wines, mentioning on the label: “Vin du Bugey” followed by the name of the Cru or/and a specific grape variety and/or the type of wine (Mousseux, Pétillant).

Here is a short list of the most established:

• Bugey VDQS: white, rosé and red
  

• Roussette du Bugey VDQS: exclusively made with Roussette

• Vin du Bugey Montagnieu VDQS: specializes in Roussette-based sparkling and still white wines with a small production of red.
  

• Vin du Bugey Manicle VDQS: the birthplace of Brillat-Savarin, mainly produces Chardonnay and Jacquère based wines and a small production of red.
  

• Vin du Bugey Cerdon VDQS: specializes exclusively in semi-sweet sparkling rosé made from Gamay and Poulsard.
  

Rarely mentioned by the press and difficult to find or pinpoint on a map, this recluse and rustic, yet quaint but low-key area has still succeeded to make a name for itself over the last decade, due to the quality of its wines. Consequently, in May 2009, Vin du Bugey (or Bugey) and Roussette du Bugey received the final approval from the INAO (Institut National des Appellations d’Origine or French National Institute for the AOC), to be elevated from VDQS to AOC (Appellation d’Origine Controllée) status. A distinction that should increases the already consistent quality of the wines and should bring more attention and light to this charming area.

Despite their new status, the vineyards are still hard to find and consists of about 500 hectares spread out over 67 villages in the “Ain” département, in small patches of vines planted on steep, mostly south facing slopes, scattered between cattle grazing and small farms. It is in this undiscovered region that one of the oldest sparkling French winemaking techniques is still practiced, to produce one of the flagships of the Bugey appellation: “Bugey- Cerdon Méthode Ancestrale”.

The “Méthode Ancestrale” is rarely used in France nowadays, yet, in 1962, it was approved to be the only method used to produce “Vin du Bugey – Cerdon”. Bugey – Cerdon must be crafted from 100% Gamay or a blend of mostly Gamay with an addition of Poulsard, and sometime a touch of Chardonnay (depending on the producer).

The method results in a lightly sparkling, medium sweet wine. It involves bottling partially fermented young wines, usually in champagne shaped bottles, before all the residual sugar has been fermented into alcohol. Therefore, the fermentation continues in the bottle and gives off carbon dioxide, which explains the presence of bubbles. The wine is designed to be sweeter and less fizzy than a champagne method sparkling wine and no dosage is allowed.

Served cold or slightly cool, Bugey – Cerdon is a refreshing and fun bubbly to be consumed within the first 1 year after bottling (almost like a sparkling Beaujolais Nouveau, but much better). Its delightful berry flavors make it the perfect apéritif! It is also highly recommended to serve it with red fruit-based and chocolate desserts.




NV Renardat-Fache Vin du Bugey Cerdon Méthode Ancestrale France
Suggested retail price $18-$21
Imported by Louis/Dressner and Distributed by Polaner in NYC

Alain Renardat is a respected vigneron in Cerdon. The Domaine is located in Merignat, a small village, 4 kms southwest of Cerdon, part of the Bugey-Cerdon appellation. Alain and his son Elie make their Cerdon from Gamay and Poulsard, and follow the "Méthode Ancestrale" (which differ totally from the widely used Méthode Champenoise, or else plain carbonation, the preferred method used for less expensive sparkling wines).

The grapes are handpicked, then pressed and fermented in cold vats until the alcohol reaches about 6 degrees. After a light filtration that leaves most of the active yeast in the unfinished wine, it is bottled and continues its fermentation in the bottle, reaching about 7.5 or 8 degrees of alcohol and retaining a fair quantity of its original sugar. It is more “vinous” (or “Vineux” in French, meaning that the resulting wine still possess freshly crushed grapey primary aromas) than most Champagne, since there is neither dosage nor addition of yeast before the “second” fermentation in the bottle.

NV Renardat-Fache Vin du Bugey Cerdon Méthode Ancestrale is a great semi-sweet sparkling wine to enjoy at anytime. The color is light, festive pinkish red, with gentle bubbles. The nose is a bowl of freshly crushed red berries aromas intermingled with earthy, mineral and floral hints. The palate is soft, well rounded and well balanced, neither too sweet, neither too dry, just right in the middle, with a note of residual sugar in the finish. Really approachable, juicy and easy going. Spring and Summery, its effervescence will enhance any strawberry, cherry and raspberry desserts and sorbets, as well as chocolate.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken from the importer at www.louisdressner.com and the distributor website at www.polanerselections.com

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic and Organic wines (and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe!

A few Valentine's Day Rosé Bubbly, Champagne and other sparkling

A few Valentine's Day Rosé Bubbly, Champagne and other sparkling

Valentine’s Day usually call for sparkling wines, and more specifically sparkling roses. It is mainly a day to please your partner, friends and family. Bubbly enhance any occasions, parties and “tete-a-tete” lunches and dinners. Rosé makes it even more romantic and festive and colorful.

So, to help you sheer up your Valentine’s day, here is a list of some fun and helpful sparkling values to help you focus on the dinner, the flowers or the jewelry bill:



NV Marquis de La tour Brut Rose Loire Valley France $9.99

The Loire Valley has often been called the “garden of France.” This pastoral landscape, with its gently rolling hills and majestic Châteaux, also happens to be the largest sparkling wine region in France, outside of Champagne.

One of the best known names in fine Loire Valley sparkling wines is Marquis de la Tour from Rémy Pannier. Rémy Pannier, which has been identified with premium quality Loire Valley wines since 1885, is the Loire Valley’s single largest wine producer, with markets in over 40 countries worldwide. Marquis de la Tour has been a welcome guest and the toast of the party at social gatherings and family celebrations, both formal and casual, around the world. It remains a fun and accessible bubbly, and although not too complex or extravagant, it is definitely easy going and agreeable.

This is a charming and affordable sparkling wine, a perfect party toast or reception aperitif. This gentle and friendly bubbly has a bright salmon pink color, almost candied, with fine bubbles. The nose is quite delicate and elegant with notes of strawberries and raspberries. The palate is round, supple and fresh with a red fruit long finish. This fruity, yet not sweet, sparkling wine can be served as an aperitif. Its aroma is also enhanced when served with red-berry desserts.



NV Latittude 50 Brut Rose Sekt Germany $19.99

Our good friend Savio Soares is already renown for bringing organic and biodynamic gems and values from France and Germany (and more), and once again he hit the spot, with this 100% Spätburgunder (more commonly called Pinot Noir) Rosé Sekt (Brut or sec) sparkling from Germany.

2007 Latitude 50 Spätburgunder Rosé is fresh, vivid, with multiple, fast paced bubbles and an elegant, tender, light pinkish onion skin color. This rosé is a sociable, easy-going and inviting bubbly. Surprisingly easy to drink, dry and bright yet ripe and light on its feet and fruity (and once again, remember that fruity doesn't necessarily mean sweet, in most case, it just imply ripeness or a fruitier taste than usual in therm of fruit not of sugar.... sweet is definitely a misleading word in the wine world vocabulary), it is an ideal dry sparkling rosé wine for any festive occasion (a toast, a lunch or a dinner, etc..). It was one of the highlights of 2009 end of the year Holiday's season and a no-brainer choice for taste and especially value. Saint Valentin is coming soon and this rosé will tenderly complement your eyes-to-eyes, cuddling time.



NV Ayala Brut Rose Majeur Champagne Aye France $38.99

Since January 1st, 2008, Cognac One has become the sole importer of Champagne Ayala in the U.S. The only French champagne house with Latin roots, AYALA was established in 1860 in Äy, France by Edmond de AYALA, the son of a Colombian diplomat in Paris, who married the niece of a noble Viscount and received the Chateau of Äy as his dowry, along with prime vineyards located in Aÿ and Mareuil sur Aÿ.

The House of AYALA was one of the elite founding members of the "Ivy League" of the top champagne houses, the Syndicat des Grandes Marques de Champagne. AYALA was purchased by Bollinger in 2005.

Like Bollinger, Ayala produces fairly bodied Champagne that are yeasty and food friendly, balanced and elegant. The Ayala Brut Rose Majeur is an interesting, fruit forward Champagne, medium bodied, with strawberry and floral flavors. Medium pink-red candied cherry color, this classy and gutsy rosé will complement any red berry dessert as well as fresh tuna, salmon and crab.



You can also check the following ones, which are some of my favorite sparkling rosé(s). They surely deserve a bit more attention and I will at some point probably write a post for each of them. However, here is a short list for Valentine's Day:

• NV H.Goutorbe Rose Brut Grand cru Champagne Aye France $52.99
  
• NV Moutard Pere et Fils Brut Rose de Cuvaison Buxeuil Champagne France $33.99
• NV Marc Hebrart Brut Rose Champagne $43.99
  
• NV Carpene Malvoti Prosecco Italy $18.99
  
• NV Chapuy Brut Rose Tradition Champagne $39.99
  
• NV Delavenne Brut Rose Champagne $41.99
  
• NV Gardet Brut Rose Champagne $47.99
  
• NV Laurent-Perrier Brut Rose Champagne $75.99
• NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Rose Champagne $79.99
  
• NV Heidsieck Monopole Brut Rose Champagne $34.99
  
• NV Brun FRV 100 Rose Terres Dorees $22.99
  
• NV Codorniu Brut Pinot Noir Rose Cava Spain $14.99
  
• NV Cristalino Brut Rose Cava Spain $8.99

I could have put much more brands and labels, but this list should be a good way to start and give you some ideas. The prices are the ones that we have at the store, visit the store website for more info at www.HeightsChateau.com.


Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic and Organic wine (and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe!

Vega Barcelona NV Brut Reserva Cava Penedès Spain

Champagne, Prosecco, but what about Cava?

If price is an issue when you trying to buy some sparkling wine and you do not want to pay the price for a Champagne, other successful alternatives at a lesser price exist: Crémant de Loire, Crémant d’Alsace, Crémant de Bourgogne, Crémant de Bordeaux, Clairette de Die, Cerdon du Bugey, Mousseux, Blanquette de Limoux, Vouvray Pétillant (all from France and many more), Sekt (Germany & Austria), Prosecco (Italy), Lambrusco (Italy), Brachetto (Italy), American sparkling wines from California and New Mexico and Cava from Spain, and many more from all around the world (but the list will be too long).

The aristocratic, posh or bourgeois ways and attitudes of most sparkling-wine-drinking-people will always tend to go toward Champagne and Prosecco, which is a bit of a snobbery because a lot of Champagne are very pricey and not necessarily that good (and people go often for recognizable brands that are making relatively generic Champagnes compared to some unknown and up-and-coming producers); and Prosecco(s), even if cheaper or better value than Champagne, can also be really boring and not that great, proof is Prosecco are often used for making Mimosa (sparkling wine + orange juice) with family and friends during Sunday brunch.

But what about Spanish Cava(s), people do not really speak about them, which is a shame because they are as good value or even cheaper than Prosecco(s) and far less expensive than Champagne.

Don’t get me wrong, I love Champagne and Prosecco!

Amongst many other, here are 3 favorites of the moment:

• Marc Hebrart NV Rosé ($40-$45 from Michael Skurnik Wines) has been my go to Champagne for a little while now and compared to big brands producing millions of bottles of Champagne that in my opinion have a certain lack of character (no point to give names, they are the most well-known and advertised in this price range), I think that it is a much better Champagne from a smaller producer who is in control of his own small production and carefully pay attention to the quality every step of the way, from vineyards to vinification, etc.. It is a subtle, delicate, feminine, and racy delightful Champagne Rosé.

• Lattitude 50 Sekt Rosé is a German sparkling wine that is also a great value ($19-$21, from Savio Soares) which much more fun than a lot of Champagne and will definitely do the trick in any occasion. Light on its feet, fun, friendly, festive, refreshing with a pale salmon color with orange reflects, it is a party pleaser.

• Bisson Prosecco is also a great value and a tremendous sparkling wine ($15-$18, from Rosenthal/Madrose). Classic in style with its regular cork rather than the pop-up champagne cork and muselet, it is a delightful, crisp, vivid, mineral and focus Prosecco of choice for connoisseurs and amateurs searching for balance and harmony and subtle mineral touch.

However, let’s go back to Cava and one of my favorite, which has always been really good and consistent over last few years: Vega Barcelona.

Vega Barcelona NV Brut Reserva Metodo Traditional

Vega Barcelona is a delightful, crisp, vivid and easy to drink Cava (a Spanish sparkling wine aged in underground limestone cave like in Champagne, hence the name “Cava” meaning cave) from the Penedès region, just outside northern Barcelona.

Cava is made in exactly the same way as Champagne, but like many other sparkling wines around the world, it cannot be called Champagne because it is not coming from the French region of the same name, which by this way protect its wines from fraud and imitations.

Cava has fully established its identity in the export markets in the last thirty years yet specialized bodegas - or Cava houses - have been producing on a commercial scale since the end of the 19th century. Today Cava is second only to Champagne in world sales of sparkling wine, followed by Prosecco and American sparkling wines.

A blend of 3 different grapes, each grape variety for this Cava are harvested from each vineyard then fermented and vinified separately to allow for the differences in ripening dates and quality development. First fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks at 61-62° for about 7 to 10 days. Second fermentation is in bottles, also called the “Méthode Champenoise” (i.e. traditional) obtained for this Cava with selected yeast for maturation. The wine was left on its lees for about 9 months before disgorgement before bottling.

Vega Barcelona NV Brut Reserva Metodo Traditional Penedès Cava Spain
Suggested retail price $13-$16
Imported / Distributed by Pas Mal Selections in NYC

A blend of 30% Macebeo, 35% Xarello, 35% Parellada from vines of over 10 years of age, Vega Barcelona Cava (NV) has a beautiful, bright pale yellow color with small to medium bubble. The nose combines aromas of ripe pear, white fruit, mineral and slate. The palate is clean, refreshing and friendly with citrus and white fruit flavors intermingled with hints of “crème brûlée” and more mineral enhanced by small zesty bubbles. The finish is soft, well-rounded, mineral, cleansing and inviting. It will surely contribute to the success of any occasion that requires some sparkles.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic and Organic wines (and Food) from sustainable cultures and respect the environment!

NV Harlin Père et Fils Champagne Brut Tradition France

The last bottle of my wedding's Champagne

This year, last August, my wife and I celebrated our 5th wedding anniversary (2004). Nothing fancy or too extravagant with no wood either (tradition says that the 5th wedding anniversary gift should be made of wood), none of that... just simple, nice and sparkling.

That night, we opened two bottles of Champagne: NV Marc Hebrart Brut Rosé that my wife and I discovered recently, 4 or 5 bottles ago, and really enjoyed then and every drop since, every time we have an occasion or an excuse to celebrate; and the 2nd one was a bottle of NV Harlin Père et Fils Brut Tradition white that we discovered and drank for our wedding celebration in France (2005), at the "Citadelle de Blaye" (worth visiting once, if you pass by), about 50 kilometers north of Bordeaux next to the Côtes de Bourg where I grow up (my turf baby!).

Franck, one of my oldest friend, (not by the age but by the number of years we know each other), suggested me to buy this small producer RM (Récoltant Manipulant) Champagne named Harlin Père et Fils for my wedding. He discovered this easy going yet refined and balanced bubbly a few months before (may be a year or more), and was using it from time to time for friends and family dinner and parties, and also used it for his wedding.

If you are married, you surely already know about wedding budget.... so, you will then understand that I was looking for something more than decent for a relatively inexpensive price.

My friend was right and I thank him again for the tips, Harlin Père et Fils ended up to be a great choice that pleased all of our guests from the aperitif to the wedding cake and continue to flow even more until about 6 am in the glass and on the clothes of the last remaining partygoers (including my wife and I of course), and even the next few days for lunch and dinner with the family. Moreover, it didn't cost us much, you can actually buy it in France for a very reasonable price ranging between 11 and 15 Euros, which was a good excuse for us to order much more than we needed, thus putting an even bigger smile on the face of our guests when we gave them each 1 or 2 bottles to take home at the end of the night (around 6 am the next day, which is morning...).

Therefore, in memory of our wedding in New York (New York friends and American family), 5 years ago, and our 2nd wedding (religious this time with the French family) in France, 4 years ago, we opened this last bottle of Harlin Père et Fils, our wedding Champagne bringing back some good memories and started to talk about the past, keeping a careful and affectionate eye on our little son, the invaluable fruit of our union.

Despite these personal sentimental reasons, Harlin Pére et Fils is a Champagne house which produces excellent value bubbly Cuvées. Keep an eye on it for your next occasions, although I do not think that this Champagne House is distributed in the US market. We were able to drink this Champagne here in New York because we brought back 3 or 4 bottles from France after our wedding, and this one was the latest bottle of our wedding's Champagne.

NV Harlin Père et Fils Champagne Brut Tradition France

Located in Port-à-Binson (Mareuil le Port), a little village in the Valley de la Marne (west of Épernay and south of Châtillon-sur-Marne), Harlin Père et Fils is a family run estate of approximately 8,5-9 hectares of mainly Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and some Chardonnay vines. From contradictory source, it seems that the estate was founded in 1884 but only created under the name of Harlin in the beginning of the 1900s. One thing is sure, it was slowly expanded in the 1960s to ridge its actual size and was completely renovated in 2006. Dominique Harlin is now in charge of the estate and continues to maintain the family winemaking tradition, value and style.

Domaine Harlin Père et Fils produces at least 3 Cuvées that I know of:

• Harlin Père et Fils Brut Cuvée Tradition made with 10% white grapes (Chardonnay) and 90% red grapes (roughly 20% Pinot Noir and 70% Pinot Meunier). Nice fruit, rich and round yet supple and fresh palate with an inviting finish.
  

• Harlin Père et Fils Brut Cuvée Grand Cru made with at least 60% Pinot Noir, is richer, more opulent, with a longer finish. Definitely a food friendly Champagne.

• Harlin Père et Fils Brut Cuvée "Gouttes d'Or" is a harmonious, structured and refined Champagne mixing half white and half red grapes with at least 40% of Pinot noir.
  

NV Harlin Père et Fils Brut Cuvée Tradition made with 10% white grapes (Chardonnay) and 90% red grapes (roughly 20% Pinot Noir and 70% Pinot Meunier) was a blend of the 2004 and the 2003 cuvée de Reserve vintages (see my previous post on Champagne and Sparkling for more info about vintage blend). The robe is clean, clear pale yellow with golden reflects and gentle, fine bubbles. The nose is rich yet fresh with yellow and white fruit aromas mixed with hints of light toasted yeastiness. Interesting red and yellow fruit notes, like light raspberry and peach-apple, constitute the flavors of this rich and round yet supple and fresh palate with a good amount of integrated acidity leading the fruit toward the friendly and inviting finish. Great as an aperitif, for a toast and even with shellfish and poultry "amuse-bouches".

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Step into the Green! drink more Biodynamic and Organic wines (and food) from sustainable cultures and respect the environment!

Marc Hébrart Brut Rosé 1er Cru Champagne Vallée de la Marne France

Before writing about Marc Hébrart, I like to talk again about Champagne:

Champagne

Champagne is a small sparkling wine region located approximately 140-150 kilometers east of Paris, predominantly surrounding the town of Reims, the Champagne capital, and expanding partly east toward the town of Chateau Thierry and partly south toward the town of Ay and Epernay, the little village Vertus and further south to the town of Troyes.

Champagne is roughly divided in 5 main regions (see my previous post on "Champagne and other sparkling wines" for more info), including the 3 main ones located in the Marne district:

• Montagne de Reims roughly forming a "U" shape toward the south around the town of Reims where some of the best Pinot Noir vineyards can be found.
  

• Vallée de la Marne extending from east to west and following the Marne River between the town of Epernay and the western part of Chateau Thierry, where some of the best Pinot Meunier vineyards are planted.

• Côte des Blancs starting from Epernay and going down south toward Vertus, home of the best Chardonnay grapes.
  

Champagne is a sparkling wine produced by inducing, after the 1st fermentation alcoholic, a second fermentation in the bottle by an addition of yeast and sugar, creating some carbon dioxide which can't escape from the bottle, thus creating carbonation: bubbles.

In a few steps, here is the explanation of the various phases of the "Méthode Champenoise" (also known as Méthode Traditionnelle"):

• Pressing (a.k.a. Pressurage): right after harvest the 3 Champagne's grapes (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) are gently pressed. Depending on the Champagne house, the pressing of the grapes can be different, but on average 4000kg of grapes will result in about 2550L use to produce quality Champagne (2050L of Cuvée - tête de Cuvée and Cuvée de Reserve - and 500 of Taille) the remaining liters left over from the pressing will be use for distillation and production of Marc de Champagne. Roughly, it takes about 1.2 kg of grapes to produce a 750cl bottle of Champagne.
  

• Alcoholic fermentation: the fist steps in the production of Champagne are very similar (or should I say identical) to white wine. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier's grapes are gently pressed then fermented, usually separately, but sometime together, depending on the producer's style, need or intuition depending on the vintage. Like for white wine, the conversion of natural sugar (contained in the grapes) into alcohol usually occurs because of natural (and sometime added) yeasts, the grape juice turns then into still white wine. The malolactic fermentation is not always used and especially not if the natural acidity of the grape juice is low. Before assembling the wines, the wines are usually "refrigerated", technically the temperature is lowered is the stainless steel tanks, to provoke the "Acid Tartaric Precipitation", and this way avoiding the formation of tartaric crystals in the bottle when put in the fridge just before consumption.
  

• Assembling the wines: as you may already know, most Champagnes (except the "Millésimé" better known as "vintage") are Non-Vintage (NV) and mostly "Brut" (dry), for the simple and understanding reason that they are made from wines of different vintages. For those of you who do not understand what I'm trying to say, let me explain: in order to respect the consistency, taste, balance, characteristic and style of their Champagnes (NV), vintage after vintage, and more especially year after year, the different Houses of Champagne have their own blend made with, predominantly, the gape juice of the latest harvest completed after ageing and disgorgement, with a touch of the "Cuvée de Réserve" or "Reserve" during the Dosage phase, usually a wine from the recent past years.

• More over, the blend between Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier may vary in quantity depending of the vintage and the desired style (Rosé, Blanc de Blancs, Blanc de Noirs, etc...) but also in quality depending on the provenance of the grapes, especially for the Houses of Champagne that traditionally continue to buy their grapes with the local growers located either in the Grand Cru vineyards (usually the best, selling their grapes from a higher price and considered 100%) or the 1er Cru vineyards (although, considered 99%, supposedly lower in quality with less expensive price for the kilo of grape, yet still excellent). Which explains why a bottle of Krug or Salon or Gosset or Bollinger or Billecart Salmon or Ayala or , in the case of this post, Marc Hebrart "Brut Non Vintage" taste pretty much the same year after year.
  

• In Champagne, being a Champagne maker and expert blender, like Richard Geoffroy at Dom Perignon, is not an easy task and requires refined blending skills and an accurate, very consistent palate, because, for the reasons cited above, different wines from different grapes and different areas and Terroirs are blended together to obtain a consistent Champagne that need to have the same taste, style, quality and characteristics year after year (that is also the best way for the Champagne Houses to keep their identity, their reputation and more importantly their consumers: because, even if sometime, consumers may try different Champagnes, other than the one that they like to drink the most, for different reasons, at some point, they will always come back to the one that correspond the most to their style, their envy and more especially their palate).

• Bottling and secondary fermentation (also called "Tirage" phase): usually happening in January, after the first alcoholic fermentation and the assembling, the desired assembled (or blended) wines are bottled with an addition of yeasts and sugar (also known as "Liqueur de Tirage"), slowly starting a second alcoholic fermentation in the bottle and creating some carbon dioxide which can't escape and dissolves in the bottle, thus creating carbonation: bubbles (also known as "Prise de Mousse"). The fermenting wine must remain by Champagne's law a minimum of 1,5 year in the bottle before disgorgement. Some Champagne House, depending on the desired style and taste, left the obtained Champagne for longer on its lees and yeast residues which confer roundness, viscosity and somewhat richness to the final product. The Champagne bottles slowly fermenting are closed (or sealed) with a beer-like metal capsule and a plastic "Bidule" (small plastic recipient placed against the capsule inside the neck of the bottle) to collect the lees and yeast residues and to facilitate the disgorgement.
  

• Maturation: Champagne are usually stored on wood standing "Palette" or rotating palette located in the multiple corridors carved in Champagne's famous chalky soils, creating kilometers of labyrinth and cavities where the Champagne can mature and age in perfect conditions. Traditionally, the bottles are stored horizontally to start with, on standing palettes made of wood, then they are manually, consistently, carefully and gently rotated a few times a day by skilled "rotaters" (skilled bottle rotating people, usually the cellar master and his assistant) and in the mean time gently and gradually inclined to gather the yeasts and lees residues toward the neck of the bottle.
  

• By the end of the maturation process, after a minimum of 1,5 year for non vintage and 3 years for "Millésimé", the bottles are usually up-side-down and the residues form a layer of about less than 1 inch against the capsule (in the "Bidule"). Technology has evolved and production, cost and demand eventually triggered the birth and the need for "rotating palettes", machines which rotate the bottles instead of men, often used for faster results in generic champagnes from big brands and other quantity Champagne Houses and lower quality sparkling wines production. Although, the difference in quality hasn't really been proven, the nostalgic and more traditional way of storing the bottles on wooden palettes in the dark, moist chalk cellars for 2-3 years remains the method of choice in most classic Champagne houses.

• Disgorgement (or Dégorgement): Once the bottles have mature to ideal time (depending on the Champagne house between 1,5 to 3 years and more) and are also inclined enough to have all the lees and yeast residues in the neck of the bottle, against the capsule, the Cellar master can proceed to the Disgorgement (or Dégorgement). Before 1816, Champagnes were made following the original method, also called Méthode Ancestrale (which by the way still exist and still in use for certain style of sparkling drinks in certain countries), and were cloudy because disgorgement, a method invented by Madame Clicquot, didn't exist.

• The old method of disgorgement (also called "Dégorgement à la volée") consisted for the cellar master and champagne maker to quickly yet carefully and skillfully manually open, with a special tool, every single bottle (one after another) and thus evacuate (with the pressure contained in the bottle) the unwanted lees and yeasts residues accumulated in the neck of the bottles. Although very efficient, this method was somewhat imprecise due to the amount of Champagne lost and the additional "Liqueur de Dosage" varied from bottle to bottle, allowing a certain inconsistency yet nothing really major, but at that time some bottle may surely have been better than other (or at least tasted slightly different).
  

• The new method, brought by researches, experiences and new technology, is roughly the same and consists to plunge the neck of the bottles in a liquid (called Brine) that will freeze the lees and yeasts residues. The formed plug of ice containing the lees and yeasts residues is then removed, also by pressure, without losing much Champagne (at least, less than the previous method). Once opened after disgorgement, the bottles need to be immediately closed after the addition of the "Liqueur d'expedition" during the Dosage phase.
  

• Dosage: immediately after disgorgement, in order to refill the bottles and especially close the bottles to avoid oxidation, keep consistency and quality, and determine (or obtain) the desired style, a "Liqueur d'Expedition" (a blend of sugar and vine) is added, also because all the residual sugars have been consumed during both fermentations and the Champagne taste will not be as pleasant without this addition of sugar. The amount of "Liqueur d'Expedition" varies depending on the final, desired style and taste and will determine the "Dosage" of the final produce: e.i. a Champagne "Brut" will contain less sugar than a "Demi-sec" or "Extra-Dry" (yes, I know it is confusing, but it is how the British defined it at first and it stayed with tradition, "Extra-Dry" should be dryer but for Champagne it is the opposite, it is sweeter...go figure).

• Corked: right after the Dosage phase (addition of the "Liqueur d'Expedition"), the bottle are securely corked with a "Muselet" (or cage) to avoid accidents. The quality of the cork is essential to maintain the quality of the Champagne. The final products will then rest for a certain period of time (depending on the Champagne House) before release.

For more info about RM, NM, etc...and the other different types of Champagne houses, read my previous post on Champagne and other sparklings.


FYI: By the way, the Champagne cork, the form of the Champagne bottles and the chalky naturally temperature controlled underground cellars were also developed around Dom Perignon's time, during the 17th and 18th century when the monk of the Champagne area discovered (or re-discovered depending on the source) roughly everything at the same time and were forced to find a solution: basically, during the second fermentation not appropriate and not well attached corks were flying all over and bottles were exploding due to the pressure but also due to external temperature too, eventually after multiple attempts and experimentation, the right bottle shape and the right cork were found and used. The natural and constant cool temperature of the human carved chalky cave underground constituted the perfect maturing place for Champagne and sparkling wines in general (but still wines too, take for example the cellars of Saint-Emilion). As a matter of fact, like in Bordeaux, most Champagne houses were built with rectangular sculpted chalky stones carved out directly from these caves.

Moreover, the traditional Champagne method, also called "Méthode Champenoise", is known since the 17th century. Although he didn't really discover it but yet was a quality pioneer in sparkling wine who developed it and somewhat perfected it, this method was attributed to "Dom Perignon" a Benedictine monk from the "Abbaye de Hautvillers" (north of Epernay). In fact the British were the first to study, understand and appreciate the desirable and attractive trait of Champagne and its bubbles.

Champagne is produced exclusively within the Champagne region of France, from which it takes its name. And because of now established international treaty, national law and quality-control/consumer protection related to local Champagne regulations, the name of "Champagne" can only be used for the wines produced in the Champagne appellation. In Europe, this principle is enshrined in the European Union by Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status. Other countries, such as the United States, have recognized the exclusive nature of this name, yet maintain a legal structure that allows longtime domestic producers of sparkling wine to continue to use the name in certain circumstances. But otherwise, it is forbidden to call a sparkling wine produced else where than Champagne to be called "Champagne". In France, sparkling from other regions may be referred as "Mousseux" or "Crémant" or "Pétillant" (depending on the method). Other sparkling wines from other countries may mention on the label "Méthode Traditionnelle", or Traditional Method, or if the method is different, one may read "Méthode Charmat" (Charmat process or method), "Méthode Ancestrale" (ancestral method), "Spumante", "Frizzante", or even "Sekt".

In fact, it is still possible to find, in the US market, wines bearing the names of famous Appellations because during the early 1930's, most of the French wine regions' names were not well protected. Names like "Chablis" and "Burgundy" from California, for example, have absolutely nothing to do with the original names or appellations. Despite the fact of bringing more regulations about what it is possible to do or not to do for producers and growers within the limits of an appellation, the INAO ("Institut National des Appellations d'Origine") and the AOC ("Appellation d'Origine Controlée") were created in 1935 to defend and protect the name of the different Appellations and their wines against fraud and counterfeit, and especially to limit the used of them.

Champagne is a festive, bubbly, fresh and delicate drink suitable for any occasion and celebration: birthdays, weddings, communions, births, new contracts, new jobs, leaving a job or a place, complementing a brunch, a lunch or a dinner, etc... Champagne is a great treat, versatile and airy, it will surely sparkle your mind and your mood.


However, after this long article about Champagne, let's get back to our Champagne of the day:

Marc Hébrart Vallée de la Marne Champagne France

Marc Hébrart is a fairly new, exciting producer from the Vallée de la Marne, producing really enjoyable Champagnes from about 12.5 hectares of vineyards planted on chalky, limestone soils with mostly 75% of Pinot Noir in the great 1er Cru vineyards of the villages of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Avenay-Val-d’Or and Bisseuil, complemented by 25% of Chardonnay from the Grand Crus Chouilly and Oiry in the Côte des Blancs. Marc Hébrart winery is located in the underrated village of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, a 99% villages considered 1er Cru and home of another one of my Champagne Rosé: Billecart-Salmon.

Jean-Paul Hébrart, the current owner and winemaker, somewhat inherited of the property from his parents, Marc Hébrart and his wife, who started making Champagne in 1963. Due to the high price of the land in Champagne, they slowly and gradually bought and planted more vineyards. In 1983, their son, Jean-Paul started is own little production. In 1997, to keep and secure the lands within the family, Jean-Paul and his parents created a company (E.A.R.L Champagne Hébrart) by merging the two enterprises together, subsequently Jean-Paul became the director of this little family run company. Marc Hébrart Champagne is a Récoltant-Manipulant (RM), meaning that the Champagne house owns its own vineyards and produces Champagnes only with their own grapes and do not buy any grapes from other growers.

Jean-Paul Hébrart is somewhat a purist and a traditionalist, who prefers applying natural methods in the cellar but also to the soils and vineyards rather than using unnatural products like pesticides, herbicides, etc.. Hand selected and harvested grapes, Bucher pressing, fermentation in "petite cuvée", malolactic and hand remuage. Hébrart represents a departure from the other producers in this portfolio, for Jean-Paul’s wines marry the top Pinot Noir sites of the Vallée de la Marne with Grand Cru Chardonnay sites in the Côte des Blancs. From Skurnik point of view, Hébrart is more similar to the philosophy of Gimonnet than to that of Larmandier-Bernier, for the connoisseurs who also know these two producers. Hébrart’s wines are buoyant and lithe with deft integrations of minerality and juicy fruit, with excellent balance, acidity and length.



NV Marc Hebrart Brut Rosé 1er Cru Champagne Vallée de la Marne France
Suggested retail price $41-$45
Imported / Distributed by Michael Skurnik wines

Disgorged in December 2007; it was made with wines from the excellent 2005 vintage, completed with the still Mareuil red (10%) coming from 2004 vintage. The base is half-half Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and all the Chardonnay come from Grand Cru vineyards. 2005 is one loveable vintage, offering both-solid-and-ethereal wines, with great clinging fruit and a silvery aurora of chalk that almost sizzles on the brilliant finish.

Over the last 2-3 years, I tasted Marc Hébrart Rosé in many occasions and it rapidly became one of the favorite "Champagne Rosé" of my wife and I, with Billecart-Salmon Rosé and Laurent-Perrier Rosé. The last time was for the 3rd birthday of my son last week-end, and once again, it was a wonderful experience.

NV Marc Hebrart Brut Rosé 1er Cru Champagne has a light, pale salmon, pink color with captivating reflects and is already pleasing to observe in the glass. The nose is fresh, clean, delicate, mineral, floral and inviting. The palate is quite impressive, somewhat light, delicate and almost fragile in the attack yet expanding nicely in the middle palate with light raspberry and vivid red berry flavors complemented by rose petal, floral notes and lifted by a great, racy acidity. The lingering finish is quite dry with dry red cherry and raspberry notes. Overall, it is a well crafted, very feminine Champagne with a complex and seductive yet friendly and approachable attitude. I loved it everytime I tasted it, and this last time was no exception. Highly recommended for the lighter, less rich and yeasty, yet sophisticated and balanced Champagne's lovers.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Step into the Green! Drink more Bio and Organic wines (and Food) from sustainable cultures and respect the environment!

Azienda Agricola Ferghettina Franciacorta Rosé Lombardy Italy

Azienda Agricola Ferghettina

The territory of Franciacorta is a section of the Province of Brescia in the Italian Region of Lombardy. Lombardy is the central-northern region of Italy, touching Austria to the North, and surrounded by Trentino-Alto Adige & Veneto to the East, Emilia Romagna to the South and Piedmont to the West.

Shaped during the ice age and, especially after, during the melt down and the slow erosion process of the glacial era (and even now with global warming and rise of temperature), Lombardy’s geography exposes a landscape of small mountains and gentle rolling hills. The soil flourishes of glacial moraines, which consist of unconsolidated gravel and sand over limestone, allowing great drainage, ideal for the cultivation of grapes and winemaking.

The weather is mild and constant due to its location south of the foothills of the Alps, with optimum sun exposition for the vineyards and the tempering presence of large lakes: Lago di Guarda & Lago d’Idro.

Born in 1953, Winemaker Roberto Gatti, son of a winemaker from a rural family in Cazzago San Martino, moved a few years later with his family in Erbusco, true heart of the Franciacorta wine area. While young, he worked with his father in a popular winery producing Franciacorta wines. After the departure of his father, for almost 20 years, he continued to work as a cellar and vineyards manager for the same winery. During those years, he increased his skills and became seriously acquainted with the traditional Franciacorta viticulture and its peculiarities. Meanwhile, he also learnt and experienced the latest wine-growing techniques.

In 1975, he married Andreina and together in 1990 they bought 10.000 acres of land in the districts on Adro and Erbusco. Also in 1990, he was offered the chance to run a small winery, previously abandoned by its old owners, and started to make his own wine, initially sold in bulk. With the harvest of 1991, strong of his 20-years experience and confident to succeed, Roberto introduced two bottled wines, a Terre Di Franciacorta red, and a white. The Ferghettina winery was born, with only one aim: to always produce high quality Franciacorta wines!
Currently, the company manages 100 hectares (247.000 acres) of vineyard, planted in the 6 districts of the Franciacorta area to get the most from the different type of soils, in order to get unquestionable advantage in terms of diversity, complexity and quality.

Roberto is now assisted by his daughter Laura who has a degree in Winemaking, his son Matteo also studying in the same field, his wife and 15 employees. In his newly built, state of the art winery, Roberto produces about 300,000 bottles including 4 types of Franciacorta DOCG Brut, Satén, Extra Brut and Rosé (sparkling wines) and 4 types of DOC (still wines) including two Terre Di Franciacorta white, one red and an I.G.T. Merlot. Even to this day, his first produced Franciacorta Brut remains the top of the line wine of the winery. The positive reputation of Mr. Gatti and his nearly 40 years dedicated to this appellation, tremendously help this region to grew at fast pace and to gain vivid recognition from the press and the amateurs.

2003 Ferghettina Franciacorta Rosè Brut D.O.C.G. Lombardy Italy
Suggested retail price $32-$35
Distributed by VOS in NYC

Made from 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay, the 2003 Ferghettina Franciacorta Rosè Brut D.O.C.G presents a very intriguing yet attractive pale onionskin pink color with many reflects, and fine minuscule bubbles. Left in contact with the yeast for 36 months in bottle, it exposes pleasant aromas of fresh raspberry and red wild berry mixed with rose petal, mineral, and light yeasty, bready notes. The palate is elegant, harmonious, fresh and inviting. Very integrated, focus and persistent combined with a pleasant softness, this wine reflects delicacy, freshness and elegance with a bright and versatile yet solid structure that will allow you to serve it with every course of the meal, from the aperitif to the desert.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken from the winery website at www.ferghettina.it

Step into the Green! Drink more Bio and Organic Wines (and Food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment!

2007 Latitude 50 Spåtburgunder Brut Rosé Sekt B.A. Rheingau Germany

2007 Latitude 50 Spätburgunder Brut Rosé Sekt B.A. Rheingau Germany

Suggested retail price $19 - $22

Imported and Distributed by (our great friend) Savio Soares (selections)

Our good friend Savio Soares is already renown for bringing organic and biodynamic gems and values from France and Germany (and more), and once again he hit the spot, with this 100% Spätburgunder (more commonly called Pinot Noir) Rosé Sekt (Brut or sec) sparkling from Germany.

2007 Latitude 50 Spätburgunder Rosé is fresh, vivid, with multiple, fast paced bubbles and an elegant, tender, light pinkish onion skin color. This rosé is a sociable, easy-going and inviting bubbly. Surprisingly easy to drink, dry and bright yet ripe and light on its feet and fruity (and once again, remember that fruity doesn't necessarily mean sweet, in most case, it just imply ripeness or a fruitier taste than usual in therm of fruit not of sugar.... sweet is definitely a misleading word in the wine world vocabulary), it is an ideal dry sparkling rosé wine for any festive occasion (a toast, a lunch or a dinner, etc..). It was one of the highlights of 2008 end of the year Holiday's season and a no-brainer choice for taste and especially value. Saint Valentin is coming soon and this rosé will tenderly complement your eyes-to-eyes, cuddling time.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

For more info go to the revamped Savio's new website: www.savinho.com

LeDomduVin: Champagnes and other sparkling wines, what to buy?

Champagnes and other sparkling wines, 

what to buy?

The last 3 months and a half were full of good surprises and especially loaded with bubbles. Think about it: Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Year's Eve, Inauguration Day, Valentine's Day, the new season series of "Lost" and "Heroes", the Super-bowl, a few birthdays and many more other reasons to open and drink bubbly.

For nearly three months straight, the customers and the rest of the staff at the store asked me the same questions repeatedly: What sparkling wine should I buy? Which kind? Brut? Extra Brut? Dry? Medium dry? Sweet? Rosé? Champagne or Cava or Prosecco or else? I like to drink or to offer a bubbly, but I have no clue? How much should I spend? Big brands or small independent growers?

It is funny to realize that many of us have no idea what to buy when Christmas' and New Year's eve call for a bubbly. I think that this post will have been more helpful at the beginning of December, however you may refer to it all year long. After all, bubblies suit any and every festive occasions.

But first, let me remind you about the different styles of sparkling wines that you will surely encounter in fine retail stores and especially about these two little letters (i.e. RM or NM) on the champagne label.

I tried to make it simple and straightforward for everybody to understand.

These four factors: Origins, Styles, Vinification Process (or Production) and for Champagne, the two small letters on the label; they may appear insignificant to you and for most people, but they are a great quality indicator and will surely help you to make a better choice in your champagne and other sparkling wine selections.

Here is a little chart for you to better understand what I'm talking about and eventually make a better purchase:

Champagne and other sparkling wines

Origins

• Origin (a): only sparkling wines coming from the region of Champagne (France) can be called and labelled "Champagne". Other sparkling wines produced in other wine regions of France made with the "Methode Traditionnelle" (also known as "Methode Champenoise") exist, but by law must carry a different name like: Cremant de Bourgogne (Burgundy), Cremant d'Alsace, Cremant de Loire, Cremant de Bordeaux, etc.

• Origin (b): There are also other great sparkling wines in France made with the "Methode Ancestrale" (similar to Champagne but without disgorgement resulting in rounder, fruitier style) like Blanquette de Limoux (Languedoc), Cerdon du Bugey (central eastern part of France), etc...
  

• Origin (c): In other countries too, great sparkling wines of various styles, colors and tastes are produced:
  

• Italy: Prosecco (Veneto), Moscato d'Asti and Brachetto (Piedmont), Lambrusco (Emilia-Romagna), and other Brachetto, Spumante and Frizzante, etc.
  

• Spain: Cava (Penedes)

• Germany and Austria: Sekt

• South Africa: Cap Classique

• Other countries like Chile, Argentina, New Zealand, Australia, Greece, Hungary and of course USA, (California, New Mexico, etc), just to mention the most well known, also produce sparkling wines specified on the label by "Brut", "Methode Tradionnelle", "Methode Ancestrale", "Charmat Method", or just "Sparkling Wine", "Sec", etc...

I hope that the reading about the origins gave you a better idea about where some of the most famous sparkling wines come from. Now let's try to understand the different styles.

Styles

• Brut: a dry style of sparkling wine or Champagne (less than 15 grams of sugar per liter).


• Extra Brut: an even dryer (the driest) style of sparkling wine or Champagne (less than 6 grams of sugar per liter).


• Nature (Brut Nature or Zero Dosage): means that no sugar has been added (no dosage, so less than 3 grams of sugar per liter) with the "Liqueur d'Expedition" after disgorgement, resulting in a dryer, more acidic style of sparkling wine or Champagne.


• Extra Dry: is not dry at all, it usually refers to a sweeter style of sparkling wine or Champagne (between 12 and 20 grams of sugar per liter).


• Sec: means Dry in French, but here again it is quite noticeably sweet (between 17 and 35 grams of sugar per liter). BTW: remember that Brut usually refers to "Dry" but "Sec" doesn't mean dry (because it is not as dry as the "Brut",.... like "Extra Dry" doesn't mean very dry (or extra sec) but the opposite, it is sweeter than Dry or Brut.... anyhow, the British invented all these terms, so go figure....).


• Demi-sec (semi-dry): sweeter than the previous one (33 and 50 grams of sugar per liter).
  


• Doux (semi-sweet to sweet): usually the sweetest (more than 50 grams of sugar per liter).


• Brut: (again) refers also (in general) to a dry sparkling wine or Champagne white or rose (but also red in some countries) that can be made with both red and white grapes (i.e. Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir for Champagne).


• Blanc de Blancs: usually a Champagne white or sparkling white wine made exclusively with white grapes, in most cases: Chardonnay.


• Blanc de Noirs: usually a Champagne white or sparkling white wine made exclusively with red grapes (the skin being removed before fermentation to avoid coloration), in most cases: Pinot Noir


• Rosé: usually a Champagne rosé or sparkling rosé wine made from a blend of both red and white grapes (i.e. X% Chardonnay + X% Pinot Noir, etc..).


• Red sparkling: usually refers to a sparkling red wine which is not and can not be a Champagne, in most cases made with any red local appropriate grapes depending of the region and country of origin (i.e. Shiraz in Australia, Lambrusco in Italy)


• Tête de Cuvée: refers to the best champagne that a Champagne house can produce. It can be millésime (meaning from a specific vintage) or not. (i.e. "Dom Perignon" is the "Tête de Cuvée" Champagne of Moët & Chandon; "Cristal" of Louis Roederer; "La Grande Dame" of Veuve Clicquot; etc..).


• R.D: means "Recemment Dégorgé" ("Recently Disgorged" in English). It means that the Champagne R.D, usually an excellent vintage, was left for a longer ageing period in the underground limestone cellar of the Champagne House and was just disgorged then bottled recently (usually when the winemaker decides that the produce is at its best and was aged long enough to obtain the wanted style with the desired combination of style, flavors and balance). If you visit a Champagne House, ask to see how the disgorgement is done and ask them if you can taste the Chamapgne before they add the "Liqueur d'Expedition" and put the final cork. Bollinger has one of the best R.D in the market (in my opinion).


• NV (non Vintage): means that the Champagne or sparkling wine is a blend of different vintage. Often, a touch of the same vintage or a different vintage (also call reserve) is added with the "Liqueur d'Expedition" to complete the bottle and replace the small amount of Champagne lost during disgorgement. But usually, the blend happen before bottling. Most sparkling wine and Champagne are NV. A Non-Vintage must be aged for at least a year and a half before released.

In most case, blending the Champagne made out of the latest harvest with a bit of reserve Champagne allows consistency, reliability and very similar taste from one year to the next (especially true with the big Champagne house). That is why a bottle of Veuve always taste the same and that is another reason why people in general prefer to buy brands instead of venturing in the smaller world of the lesser known Champagne house. Blending is an art and consistency insures sales. Irregularity between batches may happen, but, somewhat due to new techniques, methods and skills, it is far less common now than it used to be 10, 20 or even 30 years ago.

• Vintage: Before (more than 20 years ago), Vintage Champagne and sparkling wine were only made in the best vintage with the most adequate climatic condition, ripeness, acidity, balance, structure and ageing potential which only happened 2 to 3 times max per decade. Unfortunately, new markets in emerging countries, luxury products market and constantly increasing demand transformed this myth. Nowadays, vintage Champagne are nearly produced every year or every other year, and in my opinion the quality of some of the most prestigious brand tremendously decreased over the last 10-15 years. Amongst some of the best Vintage Champagne that I tasted over the past 17 years, the vintage 79,82, 85, 88, 90, 96, 97 and 99 seems to have extremely please my palate.
  

That should give you a better idea about the different styles produced around the world and should guide you in your choice (I hope...). Now let's try to understand how they are produced.

Production & Vinification Process

There are at least 4 different main methods to produce sparkling wine and Champagne.

• Methode Traditionnelle (previously known as "Methode Champenoise"): the most used and surely the most well known around the globe. After primary fermentation, the wine is bottled with an addition of several grams of yeast and sugar (known as "Liqueur de Tirage") which will induce the second fermentation in the bottle, thus the production of bubbles. The bottle is capped with a crown cap (like for for beer), then stored horizontally and slowly and constantly rotated (or riddled) for a minimum of 1.5 years (NV) up to 3 years and more for the vintage. Rotating the bottles slowly redirect the lees (yeast, residual sugar, etc..) toward the neck of the bottle where they settle and remain. At the end of the ageing process, the cap and the upper part of the neck are then frozen and the crown cap is removed (also known as disgorgement). The pressure in the bottle forces out the frozen lees, and the bottle is quickly corked with the addition of the Liqueur d'Expedition: a blend of Champagne of the same year or reserve Champagne to top up and complete the bottle + several grams of sugar to balance the acidity. Once corked with the final cork topped with its metallic plaque (Champagne house brand logo or name) maintained securely to the bottle by the musellet (or cage), the bottle is usually stored for another 3 to 6 months (or more depending of the house) before bottling and releasing (sometimes even longer for the most prestigious Champagne).

• Charmat Method (also known as Méthode Charmat, Metodo Charmat-Martinotti or bulk process): invented in the early 1900 by a frenchman, Eugene Charmat, to mass produce sparkling wine in a minimum of time (usually about 90 days from harvesting to bottling). The major difference with the Méthode Traditionnelle (aka Champenoise) is that the secondary fermentation occur in pressurized stainless steel tank (in bulk) where the wine remains under constant pressure through the filtering and bottling process. Although, the resulting sparkling wine may be more consistent from bottle to bottle compare to Champagne, it is not as refined or elegant, and the bubbles are also larger and slower which often indicate lesser quality. It is one of the most used methods through out the world, after the Traditional Method.

• Transfer Method (or Process or Transversage): here again, like the Charmat method, it is less expensive and less time consuming than the Méthode Traditionnelle. Invented in Germany, it takes about 90 days to a year from picking to bottling, depending on the producer and the style. It roughly follows the same steps as in the Methode Traditionnelle up to the bottling. What differs is that immediately at the end of the secondary fermentation, the bottles are emptied under pressure, then the sparkling wine is quickly filtered and rebottled (which in fact, replaces the remuage, the riddling, the need of freezing the neck to entrap the lees and sediments, and the disgorgement process of the Methode Traditionnelle).

• Methode Ancestrale: Here again, it follows the same first steps as in the Methode Traditionelle up until the end of the end of the primary fermentation. In fact there is no secondary fermentation and the sparkling wine is bottled without any addition of anything (no sugar, no yeast or else). It can also be slightly cloudy because it doesn't undergo any disgorgement or any filtration, and still contains the dead yeast matter in form of lees in the bottle. The resulting sparkling wine is usually fruitier, somewhat raw and earthy, and often sweeter than other sparklings.

The 4 methods above are the most used around the world, with the Methode Traditionnelle and the Charmat Method as the preferred method by most winemakers.

Sometimes bubbles in wine don't make the wine a sparkling wine. One may also found a natural touch of fizz on the tongue when tasting freshly bottled wines, especially white wines (like Txakoli, Albarhino, Muscadet, Penedes white, etc...); however, it usually dissipate after a few minutes in the glass, in contact with the air.

By now, I think that you should have a clearer idea of which bubbly you will buy for your next festive occasion. Only one thing remains, the two little letters on the bottle of Champagne that I was talking about earlier.

The Little Letters on the Champagne bottle

In fact, nobody really cares or even really tries to understand what they mean, but they are a significant quality factor, especially when one is looking (or should I say venturing or exploring) for a good to excellent unknown champagne at a better price than the usual brands.

In our world of consumption, nearly everybody is often tempted to fall into a good marketing trick: attractive packaging, colors, seen everywhere on TV, advertisement boards and luxury magazines, an easy name to remember, etc... However, most of the time, you end up buying an "ok to good" but not very often excellent Champagne, because you pay more for the brand and the marketing of it than for its quality.

Of course, the first names that come to mind (in the US) are: Moet & Chandon and Veuve Clicquot ("passe-partout" or should I say "all purpose" in English) for those who don't want to think too much and like to rely on brands, and then Cristal (but rarely Louis Roederer, even it is the same house) and Dom Perignon (the Grand Cuvee of Moet & Chandon, which is - here again - rarely associated with the name of the Champagne House that produces it.... ask, you will see, many people don't even realize it...).

However, there are hundreds of other Champagne house names, that are also good to excellent but less marketed and in my opinion much more interesting, and often less pricey.

Here is a brief list of the 4 different categories of Champagnes that you can find on the market and how the little letters define these categories, and essentially characterize the quality of each Champagne House and their different Champagnes (NV, Vintage, etc...).

• NM (Negociant Manipulant): It is the most common in Champagne. It usually designates a Champagne House that partly owns its own vineyards but especially sources and buys grapes from the growers, then vinified, aged the Champagne in their own underground cellar and bottled it under their own label(s). The grapes can come from many vineyards planted anywhere in Champagne, own by many growers. The grape prices depend on the provenance and origin of the grapes, depending on the Terroir (village, micro-climate, vineyard exposition, type of soil, etc..) which defines the quality of the vineyards (Grand Cru, Premier cru, etc...). Usually the big Champagne Houses have a tradition to negotiate and buy the grapes with the same Growers for generations (which also explain why some NM can be "Grand Cru" and "Premier Cru"). They sometimes buy to more than 80 growers (producers). However, over the past 5-8 years, connoisseurs and amateurs have developed a taste for Grower Champagnes which are becoming increasingly more popular.

NM category includes most of the major Champagne Houses: Moet & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, Taittinger, Pipper-Heidsieck, Charles Heidsieck, Laurent-Perrier, Nicolas Feuillatte, Louis Roederer, Charles Lafitte, etc....

Here is a list of some of my favorites Champagne Houses: Salon Le Mesnil, Billecart Salmon rosé, Laurent Perrier Rosé, Krug NV, Larmandier-Bernier Blanc de Blanc, Laurent-Perrier Grand Siecle, Pol Roger Cuvée Winston Churchill, Nicolas Feuillatte Palm D'Or, Moet & Chandon Cuvée Dom Pérignon, Lanson, etc...

• RM (Recoltant Manipulant): Somewhat less consistent and definitely less known but much more interesting and characteristic (in my opinion) than the major Brands, the "Recoltant Manipulant" are more often called "Champagne Growers". Growers possess their own vineyards, harvest their own grapes, bottle under their own label but also (and more importantly) sell their grapes to the "Negociant Manipulant". The Growers owns more than 85% of the vineyards in Champagne, which explain why the Negociant Manipulant have to buy the grapes from them. Growers are often more focus and Terroir oriented than the big houses. Their hand-harvested-and-carefully-crafted Champagnes have their own Terroir-oriented characteristics and tastes. The distinct taste of each Champagne house is the result of the blend between the grapes of various area; from vineyards usually planted around the same village (Grand cru, Premier cru, etc...):

Reims, Epernay, Avize, Ay, Bouzy, Chatillon-sur-Marne, Oger, Le Mesnil-sur-Oget, Etoges, Sézanne, Les Riceys, etc... (just mention a few among the most recognizable)

Or from the same area within the 6 main distinctive regions of Champagne which also have their own characteristics and tastes (from North to South):

Vallée de la Vesle (predominantely north-west of Reims)

Vallée de l'Ardre (west of Reims, or west of Gueux to be precise)

Montagne de Reims (South of Reims, from Gueux to Bouzy)

Vallée de la Marne (extending east to west from Avenay to Charly)

Côtes des Blancs (extending south from Chouilly to Vertus then curving west to Montmirail)

Côtes de Sézanne (all the way south from Allemant then Sézanne to Villenauxe)

Further south-east, in the Aube region, three less well-known vineyards area are also part of Champagne: Côte de L'Aube, AOC Rosé des Riceys, and the small isolated Troyes

Overall, their are roughly about 5,000 growers (RM) bottling their own champagnes and about 14,000 vineyard owners selling their grapes to hundreds of Champagne Houses (NM), cooperatives (CM), and others.

RM category includes some of my favorites Champagnes and some really interesting values in this ever increasing prices market: Pierre Gimonnet et Fils, Egly-Ouriet, Chartogne-Taillet, Vilmart & Cie, Guy Charlemagne,

• CM (Cooperative Manipulant): After harvest, growers (who belong to the local cooperative) bring their grapes to the cooperative where they (the grapes) are divided and mixed by quality (rather than by origin or growers, because local) the resulting wine(s) is(are) then vinified, aged and bottled at the cooperative under the cooperative's label(s) and not under the growers' name or label. Some cooperative offer excellent quality Champagnes, not as great, nor as complex as some of the growers or the big houses, but very often good value.
  

to be continued.....

A few more categories exist, but I will write them in an other post (one day...). I will also write a special post with all my favorite Champagnes and other sparklings, classified by categories and Region and Country of origin.

However, the 3 main categories above (NM, RM and CM) regroup some of the best Champagne Houses and producers in the market. Just look carefully on the front label for the two little letters.

All the info above should really allow you to make a better decision during your next bubbly buying experience. I hope that you've find this post as useful and interesting to read as it was for me to write it.

Til next time in a new post, Enjoy!

Ledom du Vin

Step into the Green! Drink more Bio and Organic wines (and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment!

Find more of my posts about wine, food, culture and life in general at www.ledomduvin.com