Saturday, March 19, 2011

Lagar da Xestosa Godello & Mencia Monterrei D.O. Galicia Spain

Lagar da Xestosa Godello & Mencia Monterrei D.O. Galicia Spain

Lagar da Xestosa is a joint venture between Adegas Pazo das Tapias (the winery) and “The Wine Searchers”, Ramon Romero & Eric Miller, two wine aficionados, passionate about Spanish wines, who recently decided to put together an importing/distributing company in Maryland, in order to share their passion and their finds. Their office in Spain is registered at Puente La Reina, a commune of the Navarra region, south of San Sebastian.

Lagar da Xestosa, which comes in both red made from Mencia and white from Godello grapes, the two classical Galician grapes, is produced and bottled by Adegas Pazo das Tapias, a winery located close to the northern boundary of Portugal, in Pazos, a village on the west outskirt of Verin, Galicia.

Located in the northwestern corner of Spain, above Portugal, Galicia produces some of the driest and most exquisite white wines in Spain, as well as some great, very enjoyable reds resembling in structure and texture to some of the Cabernet Franc based reds from the Loire Valley in France; yet with a bit more fruit and softer, better integrated tannins. Galicia benefits of an oceanic climate, which is ideal for the production of whites, more especially when it comes to the 2 most famous and established Galician grapes: Albariño and Godello.

Galicia is composed of relatively low mountains and rolling hills without sharp peaks, where many rivers run down relatively gentle slopes in narrow river valleys, though at times their courses become far more rugged as in the canyons of the Sil River, Galicia's second most important river after the Miño. Topographically, a remarkable feature of Galicia is the presence of many firth-like inlets along the coast, estuaries that were drowned with rising sea levels after the ice age. These are called Rías and are divided into the smaller Rías Altas ("High Rías"), and the larger Rías Baixas ("Low Rías"); the region responsible for the success of the Albariño grape variety.

Outside of Rías Baixas along the west coast, Galicia also encompasses other wine regions all along the way toward the neighboring ancient kingdom of Castilla y León, respectively from west to east (and south to north): Ribeiro, Monterrei, Ribeira Sacra, Valdeorras and Bierzo. In these DO(s), Godello is preferred to Albariño, because it is more adapted to the type of soil and climate inland to produce white of very good quality.

Adegas Pazo das Tapias is located in Pazo, a village on the outskirt of Verin, in the Monterrei D.O. (Denominación de Origen). Monterrei is a Spanish DO (Denominación de Orixe in Galician) for wines located in the southeast corner of the Ourense province in (Galicia, Spain). Monterrei DO covers the municipalities of Verín, Monterrei, Oimbra and Castrelo do Val. Long a neglected DO, Monterrei experienced a renaissance in the mid-2000s, which revived the appellation and triggered the curiosity of critics and amateurs from all around the world.

In 2006, the Mendez family, strong of 40 years of world class winemaking experience, bought the winery, Adegas Pazo das Tapias, and its vineyards. Pazo dasTapias is nestled in the middle of its own vineyard, and encompasses probably some of the best vineyards of the appellation due to the age and healthiness of the vines.

The vineyard was planted in the early80's with innovative techniques and only two indigenous grape varieties: Godello and Mencia. The vineyard shows clearly two different types of soil, sandy slope planted with Godello, where the bright soil and reflections from the quartz maximize the concentration of the Godello; and areas planted with Mencia reaching perfect phenolic ripeness indicate the great potential to develop breeds and stocks with these grapes. Combined with hard and rigorous work in the vineyard and taking in consideration the excellent location of the vineyard, the winery can only provide excellent quality grapes.

The Bodega’s current capacity of production is 350,000liters, which receive adequate treatment with state-of-the-art technology, including: modern pneumatic presses, fermentation in stainless steel tanks, and a range of French oak barrels from the forest of Allier, into which the Bodega experiences different ageing processes for the Mencia reds.

The climate of the D.O. Monterrei can be summarized as a mixture of continental and Atlantic climate, with generous rain fall throughout the year, very hot days in summer and very cold days in winter. Monterrei is the warmest and driest appellation within Galicia. Its vineyards sit between 396-500 meters (1300-1650 feet) above sea level on the Duero river basin and benefit from its ideal wine growing climate conditions.

The Bodega’s vineyard area totalizes more than10 hectares of vines, planted at an altitude of 450 meters above sea level. The average climate temperature during the year is about 12.60 degrees Celsius, which is quite ideal and consistent. And the average number of hours of sunshine per year is about 2700 hours, which is perfect to reach appropriate ripeness.



2009 Lagar da Xestosa Godello Monterrei Galicia Spain
Suggested retail price $12-$15
Imported/distributed by Romero & Miller in NYC

Made with 100% Godello vinified in stainless steel tanks, grown on sandy-quartz filled slopes that reflect and broaden the sun's rays, maximizing the intensity of the fruit.

Behind its pale yellow-greenish color, the nose is clean and fresh, with zesty aromas of white fruit, tropical fruit, lime and lemon with floral and mineral notes. The palate is super crisp, light, bright yet fairly silky with excellent structure, harmony and enhancing acidity, nicely carrying the fruit toward the lingering finish. Great aperitif, also pairs well with salads, cheese, light rice dishes and seafood.




2009 Lagar da Xestosa Godello Monterrei Galicia Spain
Suggested retail price $12-$15
Imported/distributed by Romero & Miller in NYC

Made from 100% Mencia grapes vinified in stainless steel tanks, grown on sandy-quartz filled slopes that are composed of clay sediments, quartz and sand. The soil is porous and drains water well. It reflects and broadens the sun's rays, maximizing the intensity of the fruit.

It presents a dark ruby color. The nose is beautiful, elegant and expressive, developing aromas of ripe blueberry and blackberry with earthy, floral, purple flowers notes. The palate is extremely juicy, clean, soft and integrated, really well crafted, long and elegantly fruit forward, with earthy, lightly green hints. A crowd pleaser like the white, it will certainly satisfy Cabernet Franc drinkers and agreeably surprise others. Versatile and neither too light or to heavy, it is a good go to food friendly red wine for any occasion.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from the importer website at http://romeromiller.com and taken and edited and translated from the winery website at www.pazodastapias.com


Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship

Friday, March 18, 2011

Les Vignerons d’Estezargues & 2008 Domaine Grès St. Vincent Côtes du Rhône Villages Signargues

Les Vignerons d’Estezargues - Côtes du Rhône

Founded in 1965, the cooperative "Les Vignerons d’Estezargues" is located in the Côtes du Rhône “Gardoise”, in the French departement of the "Gard", in the small town of Estézargues, about 17.5 kilometers west of Avignon.

The cooperative regroups 10 different growers (or Domaines) and collects the fruits of 400 hectares of vines, mostly planted in the AOC Côtes du Rhône and AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages “Signargues” and its surroundings.

During the 1990s, the cooperative took a more qualitative orientation, with major changes made in the production and vinification processes. The sale of bulk wine trading has given way to the development of bottling at the property, which was crucial to increase consistency and quality. Bottling at the property has been expanding steadily since 1995, from the generic wines to the Domaine wines. This new policy also generated the development of sales at the cooperative’s store, where nearly half of the production is currently sold.

To further increase the sales and the quality of the produced wines, a new policy of vinification per "Domaine" was also launched, and, as a result, each of the 10 growers has his own Domaine’s Cuvée. The choice of doing individual vinification for each Domaine, highlights the work of each producer and their specific characteristics depending on their respective Terroir.

Therefore, starting in 1995, under the supervision of the winemakers, the ten different growers in this co-op began to vinify their wine separately and make single Cuvée from their best plots. Yet, collective tanks still remained to create the entry level wines that are blended with the fruits of all growers, like “Les Grandes Vignes” line.

Anxious to preserve the environment, the growers are engaged in a durable development system for their Domaine and the cooperative, which both embrace sustainable and organic farming and methods. Moreover, the growers also signed the charter “Terra Vitis”.

FYI: The “Terra Vitis” charter (or designation) was established in 1998 by a federation of French growers and small, premium wineries to promote healthy, high quality grapes, to maintain the diversity of the fauna, to minimize chemical treatments, and prevent erosion. The federation maintains criteria and oversees verification through inspections conducted by the Véritas inspection bureau, an independent agent that verifies compliance. Among other things, the "Terra Vitis" charter requires:
  • Use of natural processes to control pests whenever possible and minimal use of chemical treatments
  • Planting varietals appropriate to soil and the climate
  • The use of ground cover and compost to provide habitat for useful micro-organisms and to prevent erosion
  • Continuing education on organic control of pests and parasites
  • Documentation of the winemaking process, literally, from the ground up
(Info about Terra Vitis courtesy of www.terlatowines.com)

To go further in quality, in 2004, the cellar invested in new equipment and winemaking process to expand and improve the winery.

Constant quality also can easily be reached because the cooperative benefits of the expertise and skills of these 10 growers united in the same cellar: each with his own identity and way of working, grape varieties and specific Terroir. The cooperative reveals their work, either through their specific Cuvées (the Domaines) or the generic wines, which are blended with the grapes of all growers.

In the cellar, unnatural yeasts, filtration and fining, as well as all technologies denaturing the wines are prohibited. The winemaking is done without sulfur and low temperature in order to make the most of fruit and Terroir potential.

The winery sells about 15 different wines, red predominantly and rosé and white, from 5 appellations: Vins de Pays du Gard, Costières de Nîmes, Côtes du Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages and Côtes du Rhône Villages "Signargues".

AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages "Signargues" was established in 2004 and is exclusively dedicated to red wines. It is the output of most southern vineyards in the AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages with a communal name. "Signargues" encompasses four municipalities: Estézargues, Domazan Rochefort du Gard and Saze.

We tasted only 4 of them out of the 15 that they produce, although most of them are in the US market, they are distributed by 3 different distributors in NYC; and from Jenny & François, the two following really captured my attention:



2009 D'Estezargues Les Grandes Vignes Rouge Côtes du Rhône France
Suggested retail price $10-$13
Imported / distributed by Jenny & François (Importer of Natural Wines) in NYC

Made from 100% Cinsault, 20 to 80 years old vines, planted on red clay based and stone strewn soil. Natural vinification method: hand harvested grapes. No external unnatural yeasts and no enzymes are used during the winemaking process. The bunches are de-stemmed and the fruit undergoes fifteen days of maceration; then the wine is stored in enamel-lined concrete tanks for 10 months before it is bottled without fining or filtration.

Made with 100% Cinsault, which is quite unusual for a Cotes du Rhone, 2009 Les Grandes Vignes rouge offers generous ripe dark fruit flavors, in a rich, juicy, earthy profile. Behind its deep ruby color, the nose develop warm, inviting and expressive aromas of dark berry, garrigues, chocolate and earth. The palate is gorgeous and friendly, full and rich, offering a lot of chocolate and ripe dark fruit flavors mingled with spicy, floral, earthy, garrigues notes. Balanced, with good tannic structure, this an excellent example of Cotes du Rhone. Even from a cooperative, it has nothing to envy to independent producers, on the contrary. Highly recommended for everyday drinking on "charcuterie", "paté", grilled red meat and cheese. I love it.




2008 Domaine Grès St. Vincent Côtes du Rhône Villages Signargues France
Suggested retail price $12-$15
Imported / distributed by Jenny & François (Importer of Natural Wines) in NYC

Patrick Vincent, the owner, grows 5 grapes going into this wine, which is a blend of 60% Grenache, 25% Syrah and the rest being Carignan, Mourvèdre and Cinsault, 20 to 80 years old vines, planted on Red clay covered in small stones soil. Natural vinification method: hand harvested grapes. No external unnatural yeasts and no enzymes are used during the winemaking process. The fruit undergoes twenty days of maceration and the wine is stored in enamel-lined concrete tanks for 10 months before being bottled without fining or filtration.

On the nose the initial freshness is quickly complemented by perfectly ripe red fruit, mingling with earthy, mineral, garrigues, Terroir oriented spicy notes. Domaine Grès St. Vincent is also a worthy representative of the new appellation “Signargues”; delivering the same type of flavors, the palate is balanced, structured and quite exquisite, juicy, rich and complex, yet harmonious, focus and elegant. It will pair greatly with earthy dishes, stews, rack of lamb, “Tete de Veau” and Boeuf Bourguignon, and flavorful cheese. Excellent.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken, translated and edited from the cooperative website at www.vins-estezargues.com and from the importer website at www.jennyandfrancois.com

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

Saturday, March 12, 2011

2009 Olivier Cousin "Le Cousin Rouge" Vieilles Vignes Grolleau Anjou Loire Valley France


Lately, I wrote about a few wines from Jenny & François, which I tasted over the last few weeks, but I just realized that I forgot a very important one in term of Natural wine: "Le Cousin Rouge" Grolleau Vieilles Vignes.

Olivier Cousin, owner of Domaine Cousin-Leduc, cultivates about 12 hectares of vines in and around Martigné Briand, a little village nestled in the fertile Anjou region, about 30 kilometers east of Saumur and about 33 kilometers south of Angers.

His vineyards are planted with Gamay, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Grolleau and Chenin Blanc. All of the wines Cousin crafts are certified biodynamic. He plows his vineyards with his horse Joker, uses only indigenous yeasts and shuns enzymes, sugar and sulfites.

Oliver Cousin is constantly experimenting to improve the quality of his wines, which often undergo an extended maceration, resulting in greater character to the final wines. He crafts wines that celebrate the harmony that exists between man and nature.

His hard work and understanding of the vines in his small Loire Valley vineyard represent some of the finest natural wines that are currently available in the United States. The Domaine is entirely “Biodynamic Demeter” certified.





2009 Olivier Cousin "Le Cousin Rouge" Vieilles Vignes Grolleau Anjou Loire Valley France
Suggested retail price $18-$21
Imported / distributed by Jenny and François in NYC

In the series of funny and cartoony labels, “Le Cousin” is a great example. It is a play of words, between the name of the owner Olivier “Cousin” and the fact that a “Cousin” is also the name of a particular type of mosquito in France. Hence, the “Cousin” or mosquito opening a bottle of wine! Nicely done, Olivier!

“Le Cousin” is crafted with 100% Grolleau (an ancient red grape variety indigenous to the Loire that Olivier Cousin, amongst few other winemakers, has brought back from the brink of extinction.), from vines under Guyot and Gobelet pruning method. Averaging about 30 years old, the vines are planted on black loam infused with deep beds of limestone. The grapes are hand-harvested, brought to the winery by a horse, then destemmed and gently pressed. Only natural yeasts are used and the juice undergoes an extended maceration to maximize the extraction and add depth and complexity.

It shows deep, dark purple color. On the nose, very expressive, inciting aromas of freshly crushed wild berries and grapes, mingled with funky, earthy, barnyard and mineral notes, immediately emanate from the glass. The palate is rich, complex yet soft and gentle with even stronger flavors of freshly crushed wild berries and dark grapes than the nose. It also offers a focus, earthy profile enhanced by great minerality and reviving acidity. This is a buoyantly fruity and dynamic medium-bodied red that expresses the soil and Terroir it comes from. Definitely funky and unusual, ultra natural and really enjoyable, surely not your everyday wine, yet after you tasted it it could become your everyday wine!

Good on its own, it will pair pretty well with rabbit stew, veal chops, braised pork loin, paté, herb encrusted roast chicken or simply by itself.

FYI: "Mieux vaut le vin d'ici, que l'eau de là!" is also a great play of words meaning "Better the wine from here, than the water from up there!", don't get it? no! Well, it is normal because "L'eau de là" is a French play of words, a metaphor also meaning "L'Au-delà" or "The Beyond" in English. Get it?

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from Jenny & François website at http://www.jennyandfrancois.com/

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

2008 Domaine de Montrieux "Le Verre des Poètes" Pineau d'Aunis Vin de Table rouge de Loire Côteaux du Vendômois (Emile Heredia producteur at Vouvray)


Domaine de Montrieux - Emile Heredia


Created in 1999, by Emile Heredia, Domaine de Montrieux has been fully immerse into Organic methods since the beginning . The plots were chosen for their qualities: age of the vines, soil quality and exposure. Priority was given to old vines, chastened, they allow good control yields. Their roots plunge deep into the ground, which confer them constant accessible moisture and better resistance to heat, and also ensure the minerality and intensity of the wines.

Emile Heredia, a distant cousin of the famous Lopez de Heredia Family in Rioja, farms 7 hectares spread out between Villiers-sur-Loir and Naveil-Vendôme. These are some of the most distinguished slopes within the Anjou and Coteaux du Vendômois appellation, and which also encompasses some of the oldest vines of the area. One parcel of Pineau d’Aunis planted on its original roots in 1870 predates the arrival of phylloxera.

Most vineyards are planted south-facing slopes overlooking on the Loire. The soil is composed of layers of flint stone and clays resting on a limestone bedrock. The AOC Coteaux du Vendômois red and rose wines (better known as "Gris") are produced from the Pineau d'Aunis grape, and the other red Table wine is a sparkling red, Cerdon du Bugey inspired, made from old vines Gamay. Traditional Chenin Blanc goes for the white.

Pineau d'Aunis had its glory days during the Middle-Age, a favorite of Henry Plantagenet, wines made from this particular grape was first exported to England in the thirteenth century. At this time, it covered the entire Vendômois county and extended up until Nantes.

The climate, soils and mechanization would only result in obtaining good but rarely exceptional grapes of consistent quality and sufficient ripeness in this part of the Loire, therefore: "Work the soil, do not use synthetic chemicals, and harvesting by hand were obvious choices for the Domaine ". - Emile Heredia




2008 Domaine de Montrieux "Le Verre des Poètes" Pineau d'Aunis Vin de Table rouge de Loire Côteaux du Vendômois (Emile Heredia producteur at Vouvray)
Suggested retail price $18-$20
Imported / distributed by Metropolis Wines in NYC

Little anecdote about this particular wine, the label changes often and depending of the vintage the Poem on the front label may change, e.i:

  • 2008 was Baudelaire: "Si le vin disparaissait de la production humaine, je crois qu'il se ferait dans la sante et dans l'intelligence de notre planete un vide, une absence encore plus affreuse que tous les exces dont on le rend coupable." - Baudelaire
  • Beaumarchais: "Bannissons le chagrin, il nous consume: sans le feu du bon vin qui nous rallume, reduit a languir, l'homme sans plaisir, vivrait comme un sot, et mourrait bientot..." - Beaumarchais (Le Barbier de Seville)
  • Moliere: "Les biens, le savoir et la gloire n'otent point les soucis facheux; et ce n'est qu'a bien boire que l'on peut etre heureux!" - Moliere (Le Bourgeois gentilhomme)

Pineau d'Aunis, also known locally as Chenin Noir, is a red grape variety indigenous from the Loire Valley and predominantly planted in the Anjou and Touraine region. Rare in the US market are the wines made from 100% Pinot d'Aunis. In general, it is often blended with other grapes, like Arbois Blanc to produce Cheverny Rosé and Pinot Noir in the Côteaux du Vendômois.

Crafted with organically grown 100% Pineau d'Aunis grape variety, manually harvested from pre-Phylloxera 140 years old vines, this natural, unfined and unfiltered wine is quite unique due to the age of the vines and interesting for its features.

2008 Le Verre des Poètes, meaning "the Glass of the Poets", presents a cloudy, opaque ruby color. A touch green and raw, the nose boasts very inciting aromas of freshly harvested and crushed berry, cherry, raspberry and grape, mixed with herbaceous, slightly vegetal notes. The palate possesses strong soil oriented, earthy qualities. High acidity enhances the freshly crushed red and dark wild berries, framed by a lightly green, stemmy tannins. The finish is long and spicy, here again a touch vegetal, but nothing off putting, on the contrary.

Overall, a very interesting wine to discover: bright, crisp, juicy, spicy, bit green, racy, fresh, natural and unusual, not necessarily rustic but definitely raw. Not for every palate and definitely food oriented, but a pleasing experience.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

For more info go to the winery website at http://www.domainemontrieux.fr

FYI, another great wine citation from Baudelaire is:

"N'est-il pas raisonnable de penser que les gens qui ne boivent jamais de vin sont des imbéciles ou des hypocrites. Des imbéciles, c'est-à-dire ne connaissent ni la nature, ni l'homme... Des hypocrites, c'est-à-dire des gourmands honteux des fanfarons de sobriété, buvant en cachette ou ayant quelque vie occulte... Un homme qui ne boit que de l'eau a un secret à cacher à ses semblables." - Charles Baudelaire




Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

2005 Domaine du Pech "Le Pech Abusé" (Buzet) Rouge Vendanges Manuelles Biodynamic (Magali Tissot & Ludovic Bonnelle)


2005 Domaine du Pech "Le Pech Abusé" (Buzet) Rouge Vendanges Manuelles Biodynamic (Magali Tissot & Ludovic Bonnelle)

Domaine du Pech, owned by Magali Tissot & Ludovic Bonnelle, is a family owned and run domain in the heart of south west France, which focus on Terroir expression, biodynamic processes and crafted quality.

Established in 1978, Domaine du Pech is located on the eastern border of the AC of Buzet, about 100km south east of Bordeaux, on the hills to the north of Gascony. In 1997, Magali and Ludovic took full responsibility of the estate; and in 2003, they adopted and turned the Domaine to biodynamic production.

Hence, they produce wines using no chemical interference, whether in the vineyard or winery, no sulfur either, which is a risky strategy, but one they can take due to the high quality of the essential raw components: healthy vines and grapes.

The wines are produced from the typical varieties of the region: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc for the reds and Sauvignon Blanc for their limited release white. They greatly believe in Terroir expression and each variety is paired to the perfect soil to maximize its quality potential.

The label art work is designed by their two daughters.

Brief facts about the Domaine:

  • 17ha of vineyard planted on gravel, limestone and clay soil using cordon training
  • Average yields of 10-25 hl/ha due to careful pruning, bud removal and selection (no green harvesting)
  • Active natural predator encouragement program (note the ladybird on the label)
  • Hand harvested by a team of 30 trained pickers who have worked at the Domaine for many years and who provide the first tranche of fruit selection
  • Only wild yeasts are used to ferment, made possible because chemicals do not kill them in the vineyard
  • All fruits goes through a strict selection regime at the crusher and sorting table (a long process but worth it)
  • No enzymes or chemical additions adding during fermentation and elevage (ageing) . Long maturation in wooden casks and demi-muid (depending on the cuvee) up to 3 years in some cases, allowing nature to work her magic
  • No filtration or fining required so they don’t use it . All wines are bottled at the winery using their own bottling line (1.5g/hl of sulfur added only when required and depending of the vintage)



2005 Domaine du Pech "Le Pech Abusé" (Buzet) Rouge Vendanges Manuelles Biodynamic (Magali Tissot & Ludovic Bonnelle)
Suggested retail price: $19-$22
Imported / distributed by Metropolis Wines in NYC

A blend of 40% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon from hillside vines, which spent about 3 years ageing nicely in very old oak casks (36 month in oak, with pigeage every other day, and fermentation with natural yeasts only), this biodynamic Buzet possesses balance, ripeness and depth. Alcoholic fermentation naturally stopped at 15 grams, no SO2 added at all, and like most natural wines, no filtering or fining before bottling. 500 cases produced. We just received it and I love it.

Anecdote about the name of the wine: "Le Pech Abusé" is a play of word about the fact that Domaine Pech has been abused from its right of putting "AOC Buzet" on the label, even if the wine is from Buzet, because certain of its features didn't comply with AOC regulations: high alcohol content, length of the ageing process, etc...

Beside its bright ruby color, it offers expressive aromas of blueberry, blackberry and black fruit, mingled with earthy, smoky and mineral notes. The palate is rich, generous, ripe and super juicy with the same type of flavors as on the nose with oak ageing nuances, enhanced by good acidity and integrated tannins. The finish is quite soft, rounded and really ripe, but not overripe or stewed. Highly recommended. Discover natural, biodynamic red wine with hearty dishes like Cassoulet, Saucisse lentille, Magret de Canard, Braised beef, etc... How not to "abuse" of it, when it is so good?

This wine, once again, confirmed my passion for the Southwest of France and its rather undiscovered wines. Being from the Southwest of France myself, I have always been the faithful ambassador of the wines from this area. And surprisingly enough, despite the fact that the 5 top selling wines in the store are French, one of them is a super friendly, crisp and zesty little white, from Gascony, made from two indigenous grape varieties: Colombard and Ugni Blanc. I already wrote about it in an earlier post and will review it again soon.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from the importer website at www.winemc2.com and from the winery website at http://www.domainedupech.com/

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

Jean-Pierre Robinot: L'Opera des vins "Les Années Folles" (Jasnieres) Coteaux du Loir Vin de Table Natural Pétillant France


Jean-Pierre Robinot - Les Vignes de l'Angevin - Vins Naturels

Before he established the winery in 2002, for nearly 15 years, Jean-Pierre Robinot offered, to its customers, natural wines in his Paris wine bistro-restaurant called: "l'Ange Vin" (literally "Angel Wine", but more especially a play of words for the word "Angevin", which is the name of the local people from the Anjou region, or the town of Angers, capital of Anjou, like Jean-Pierre).

Fascinated by the natural wines in general and the Loire wines in particular, he returned to his native village
of "Chahaignes", located in the Sarthe, about 100 kilometers northeast of the city of Angers and 6.5 kilometers northwest of the village of "La Chartre sur le Loir", halfway between Le Mans and Tours, to establish a vineyard and craft natural wines from the "Vallée du Loir" (and no, this isn't a mistake).

Not to be mistaken with the "Vallée de la Loire", the "Vallée du Loir" is the valley formed by the banks of the "Loir" river, a tributary of the "Sarthe" river, taking its source west of Chartres, north of Illiers-Combray. The "Loir" joins the Sarthe river in Briollay, a village north of the city Angers, which in turn joins the Maine river that finally fall into the Loire.

The vineyards of the Loir Valley begins with the AOC Coteaux du Vendôme, through the AOC Jasnières ending with the AOC Coteaux du Loire. The production area consists now of 400 hectares, while many centuries ago, 5,000 hectares of vines were planted and used; but with time, some sites were abandoned and most others were mainly destroyed by the Phylloxera plague between 1860s and 1930s.

In 2002, he started to acquire quite a few plots of fallow lands in the appellation Coteaux du Loir, not planted over a century for some.
Within the first few years, and the intention to slowly and gradually build his Domaine and after a first clearing operation, it already planted two hectares of vines in the appellation Coteaux du Loir. It also took care of some other vines planted on AOC Jasnières and AOC Coteaux du Loir red. Now, he possesses about 10 hectares of lands on steep slopes, which include great Terroirs.

  • The objective he set for himself is ambitious: organic farming and natural winemaking and vinification processes, with yields limited to 25 / 30 hectoliters per hectare to obtain great complexity.
  • The ground is plowed, the plants are fed with natural composts and weeding chemicals are banned.
  • Vinification is done slowly, with almost no sulfur or without the addition of other products.
  • White wines from the Chenin grape are very gently pressed. They are aged on their lees in oak barrels for at least 12 months.
  • The red wines are from the Pineau d'Aunis grape variety. After a long fermentation, they finish their ageing on the lees in oak barrels for at least a year.

The resulting wines are very long and complex with great ageing potential, because of their great balance and structure. Yet, last updated by the end of 2009, the winery website doesn't do any favors to Jean-Pierre, in the sense that not all produced wines are represented on it. Hence, it is difficult to really realize how many wines he, in fact, produces. Only five appear on the website now (Lumiere de Silex, Jasnieres, Le Regard du Loir, Alter & Go, and Concerto d'Oniss), yet, "Les Années Folles" isn't there, "Symphonie du Temps"and "Cuvée Juliette Robinot" either.

In fact, there are a few more Cuvées than those; but it seems that it depends of the quality of the vintage and of his mood too. Jean-Pierre is definitely a personage, who makes great wines that need a bit more coverage. His grapes come from the different AOC(s) of the Vallée du Loir on which his vineyards are planted, yet they are mostly labeled Vin de Table or Vin de Pays due to the fact that his wines are so, ... somewhat atypical and certain of their features don't get along with the less generic AOC rules.


I will take a picture of the label when the wine will be at the store, because I forgot when I tasted it and the label for this particular wine changes depending on the vintage. To be completed soon.

2009 Jean-Pierre Robinot: L'Opera des vins "Les Années Folles" (Jasnieres) Coteaux du Loir Vin de Table Natural Pétillant France

Suggested retail price $16-$19
Imported / distributed by Zev Rovine selections in NYC

"Les Années Folles" is a natural "Pétillant" (lightly sparkling wine), made by Méthode Ancestrale, with disgorgement done by hand and no addition of dosage with sugar, just a refill of the bottles with the same wine, which makes it fairly dry. He makes about 160-200 cases at the most of this wines, depending of the vintage.

A blend of 80% Pineau d'Aunis and 20% Chenin Blanc from the AOC Jasnières, the light pinkish hue in the glass comes from minimal skin contact of the Pineau d'Aunis, a red grape variety, also locally known as "Chenin Noir", indigenous and predominantly grown in the Loire Valley, more especially in the Anjou and Touraine region.

Behind its medium light yellow-pinkish color, "Les Années Folles" (the crazy years) offers a funky nose where yeasty, farmy aromas intermingle with goat cheese, nutty, apple and yellow core fruit notes. The palate is much more attractive and inciting than the nose, which is definitely very interesting, yet could be slightly off putting at first, for some people. It presents freshness, great acidity, lovely balance and texture. Excellent in my opinion, this natural wine will surely generate mixed opinions, but it is worth trying and be surprised.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin,

Info taken, translated and edited from the winery website at http://lesvignesdelangevin.vinsnaturels.fr and from a discussion with Zev Rovine when he came to the store to taste us on a few wines from his portfolio.


Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

2008 Tierra de Viennae "Heluicum" & "Sotanum" Rhone Les Vins de Vienne (Cuilleron Villard, Gaillard and Villa) Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes

- Tierra de Viennae - Les Vins de Vienne -
- Cuilleron Villard, Gaillard & Villa -

Yves Cuilleron, Pierre Gaillard et François Villard, three of the most notorious wine producers of the northern Rhone Valley had a dream to offer a renaissance to the vineyards of Seyssuel, a small village at top northern part of the Rhone Valley, about 6.5 kilometers northwest of the town of Vienne, and about 13 kilometers north of Ampuis (the capital of "Cote Rotie").

They did it with passion and pleasure, and their dream came true when the adventure started in 1996, by first renting and restructuring some small parcels of land.

Vienne was even "Roman" before the Roman conquest of Gaul by Julius Caesar. It was the capital of one of the provinces of Septimania, which only became French in the thirteenth century. The Roman Viennoise county extended from Lake Geneva to the door of the city of Arles on a wide area. The inhabitants of the city of Vienne enjoyed significant privileges and had access the highest offices of the Empire. They were exempt from paying the tax. When a bridge was built, the city lies on both banks of the Rhone. The poet Martial (1st century) called the city then, "Vienne-la-belle".

The Vienne area wine’s fame dates from the time of the Empire Roman. In his writings, Pline l’Ancien (the Elder) indicates that one planting to black grape called Vitis Allobrogica, grown on the territory of Vienne, and gave three crus: Sotanum, Taburnum and Heluicum, according to the soil and the vineyards.

Remaining very popular until the late nineteenth century, Seyssuel vineyards suffered greatly during the war of religion in the 16th Century, then the vineyards were resurrected and expanded (120 hectares/ 296.5 acres of vines in 1820) until their total destruction by phylloxera in the 1890s.

Only a small part was replanted during the 20th Century due to the difficulty of its hilly terrain, impossible for mechanical cultivation, the vineyards of Seyssuel. The hillside or “Coteaux” were left, abandoned until 1996, despite many tentative of restoring and restructuring prior Cuilleron, Gaillard and Villard.

Yves Cuilleron, Pierre Gaillard et François Villard count amongst the pioneer that emphasized the rebirth of the northern Rhone in the 1980s. Three winemakers, three different approach of winemaking. Les Vin de Vienne succeeded this alchemy: fusion the sensibility of the three in one efficient team spirit. The collective commitment to produce high quality Vin de Vienne comes naturally from the combination of each producer's skill and experience. They literally revived the popularity of the Vins de Vienne.

To complete their adventure, grow their portfolio and add another point of view and winemaking skills, they introduced recently the name of a fourth person on their label, which is quite justified because he is the proprietor of the estate at Seyssuel. The fourth crony, like the 3 musketeers that were four, Pierre-Jean Villa joined them in 2003 and now runs the domain.

They now produce about 30+ wines from various Rhone appellations, divided in 4 categories:
  • Vin de Propriété: Estate wines, from the estate in Seyssuel, which include "Heluicum" and "Sotanum"
  • Les Archeveques: parcels selection in specific vineyards.
  • L'Amphore d'Or: structured wines with good ageing potential
  • L'Amphore d'Argent: easier wines with good fruit expression for everyday

Christian Dalbavie make me taste two of them "Heluicum" and "Sotanum", and I found them both extremely well crafted and like to share them with you.



2008 Tierra de Viennae "Heluicum" Rhone Valley Les Vins de Vienne (Cuilleron Villard, Gaillard and Villa) Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes
Suggested retail price $32-$35
Imported / distributed by Christian Dalbavie via Domaine Select in NYC

The name Heluicum is in reference to Helios, the sun in Greek mythology.

Crafted from 10 years old vines planted on hillsides, 100% Syrah from the Northern Rhone Valley, "Heluicum" is one of the various wines produced by a joint venture from Northern Rhone most notorious Master winemakers: Yves Cuilleron, Pierre Gaillard et François Villard, and Pierre-Jean Villa. The vineyards are under sustainable, organic methods. The soil is predominantly composed of schist stones with quartzite and micaceous shale, which confers great minerality to the wines. Fermentation occurred with natural yeasts, with pigeage and remontage. Then the wine was aged for 16 months in French oak barrels.

A superb wine, 2008 Tierra de Viennae "Heluicum" shows deep ruby-garnet color. The nose expresses lovely, earthy aromas of cassis, black berry, garrigues, violet and pepper. Extremely well crafted, the palate is juicy, a touch spicy, with high acidity and great balance and focus. Flavors of cassis, violet, and garrigues gently evolve and expand with even more earthy, floral and ripe berry fruit notes, toward the long, seamless, earthy, soil oriented, juicy finish. $40 may appear a bit high to spend in this economy, but for a wine of such quality, it is definitely worth it. I love it.

Small quantities, old vines and organic are three factors that account for the price. However, even if I am the king of under $15, and if I usually prefer to ambush wines under $20, sometimes it is good to Indulge a little and fall into a surprising ambuscade like this one.




2008 Tierra de Viennae "Sotanum" Rhone Valley Les Vins de Vienne (Cuilleron Villard, Gaillard and Villa) Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes
Suggested retail price $52-$55
Imported / distributed by Christian Dalbavie via Domaine Select in NYC

The name Sotanum is a reference to the beneficial properties of the brew which used to be produced on these slopes

Crafted from 15 years old vines planted on hillsides, 100% Syrah from the Northern Rhone Valley, "Sotanum" is one of the various wines produced by a joint venture from Northern Rhone most notorious Master winemakers: Yves Cuilleron, Pierre Gaillard et François Villard, and Pierre-Jean Villa. The vineyards are under sustainable, organic methods. The soil is predominantly composed of schist stones with quartzite and micaceous shale, which confers great minerality to the wines. Fermentation occurred with natural yeasts, with pigeage and remontage. Then the wine was aged for 16 months in French oak barrels.

Also excellent yet more expensive, 2008 Tierra de Viennae "Sotanum" presents a medium ruby robe, with bright reflects. When tasted, the nose was somewhat restraint, less expressive and lighter than the previous wine, may be a bit close at the moment; yet, it didn't mean anything because, on the palate, it was boasting more complexity, length and depth. With similar mouthful attitude and flavors profile than Heluicum, it is a better wine, more refined and integrated, showing more inciting features yet with less primary fruit flavors. Somewhat more cerebral, less youthful, vibrant and friendly than Heluicum. Food friendly, this wine needs a good hour of decanting and will pair well with hearty dishes.


Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from the winery website at http://www.vinsdevienne.com/ and from the importer website http://www.domaineselect.com/


Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

Friday, March 11, 2011

Domaine de Matignon Anjou Rouge Loire Valley France

Domaine de Matignon Anjou Rouge Loire Valley France

Dominique Simon, ex-Sommelier of Bouley restaurant and owner of The Wine List (a New York Boutique wine importer/distributor), is a rather discreet guy, who always brings me well crafted, authentic wines from small, artisanal producers. And recently, he passed by with a producer from Anjou, Yves Matignon and his daughter Lucile, who were visiting New York for the time.

Sister and brother, Hélène and Yves Matignon are the owners of Domaine Matignon, a small estate in Anjou, nestled in Martigné-Briand, a small village about 33 kilometers south of Angers, the capital of the Anjou region, and about 30 kilometers west of Saumur, on the southern bank of the Loire River.

Domaine Matignon has been a family-run estate for the past 3 generations. It covers 38 hectares of vineyards planted on diverse types of soil and Terroir. All work in the vineyard and the cellar is done under sustainable culture system, or "lutte raisonnée". Driven by the same passion, Hélène and Yves Matignon do everything themselves. All their wines are grown, produced and nurtured naturally at the property by their own care.

They produce about 10 wines:
  • White: Anjou Blanc, Coteaux du Layon, Chardonnay, Saumur Méthode Traditionnelle and Sauvignon
  • Rosé: Carbernet d'Anjou, Rosé de Loire
  • Rouge: Anjou Rouge, Anjou Villages and Rouge Plaisir

We tasted 3 of their wines:



2008 Domaine de Matignon Anjou Rouge Loire Valley France
Suggested retail price $10-$13
Imported / distributed by The Wine List in NYC

Made with 100% Cabernet Franc vinified in stainless steel tank, 2008 Domaine Matignon Anjou Rouge is very soft, elegant, with great acidity, lovely texture and balance. Following the fresh red fruit aromas of the nose, similar flavors gently expand toward the earthy, smoky finish. Nicely made. A solid and reliable, juicy Anjou rouge at $12, to drink young, within the next 2-3 years after bottling, and to pair with pretty much everything.

One may find trace of green and vegetal hints, which are classic, Terroir oriented characteristics of Loire Valley reds, especially when partly or fully crafted with Cabernet Franc or Grolleau. They are not defaults, but add crispiness and raciness to the overall profile of the wine; especially when combined with high, integrated and focus acidity, which nicely enhances the fruit and is definitely wanted.




2004 Domaine de Matignon Anjou Villages Rouge Loire Valley France
Suggested retail price $16-$18
Imported / distributed by The Wine List in NYC

Also made from 100% Cabernet Franc, yet from older vines, Anjou Villages is generally a wine of choice with very good ageing potential (7-10 years after bottling). And this one is no exception to the rule. Robust, structured and harmonious, after fermentation, it was aged at least for 9 months in oak vats or barrels (en fût de chêne).

Despite a certain age, the 2004 Domaine de Matignon Anjou Villages Rouge has a youthful attitude and profile, offering lovely texture and structure maintaining the wine toward a fairly long finish. The nose and palate, despite the fruit flavors, also have green and vegetal notes and nuances, like asparagus and green pepper, but nothing off putting or surprising for red Loire Valley drinkers, and very typical to Cabernet Franc. I found it excellent and still quite young and vibrant despite its age.

Another proof that, atop the quality and maturity of the fruit, acidity and tannins are key components to the longevity and ageing potential of a wine. Fuller and more complex than the regular Anjou Rouge, served at room temperature (14/15 ° Celsius), it will go wonderfully with red meats, game and cheeses.


We also tasted the 2009 Anjou Rouge, but I found it too young and somewhat astringent for now, aside of the good ripeness of the fruit conferred by the quality of this particular vintage.

Thank you Yves and Lucile (and Hélène) for your visit and thank you for your wines. Keep up the good job!

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

For more info go to winery website at http://www.domaine-matignon.fr

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

2009 Vigneti Massa Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi DOC White Piedmont Italy (Organic - Sustainable)

Last week, my rep. from Metropolis Wines came with a few organic, natural wines, including 3 that I really loved and bought on site. One was from the Loire, the other from Buzet and the last one was a white from Piedmont. Each of them will have their post, but let’s start with the white from Piedmont, which was intriguing yet really, really good.


2009 Vigneti Massa Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi DOC White Piedmont Italy (Organic - Sustainable)

At first, I didn’t pay so much attention to the label; I was just trying the wine based on the fact that it was from Piedmont, which happens to be my favorite Italian wine region.

Piedmont is surrounded to the north by the Alps, and overlooked by 2 mounts: Monviso (Mont Vis), where the Po rises, and Monte Rosa. The region borders France to the west, Valley d’Aosta to the northwest, Switzerland to the north and the Italian regions of Lombardy to the east, Liguria to the south, and a very small fragment with Emilia Romagna to the southeast. The geography of Piedmont is nearly half mountainous, along with extensive areas of hills and plains. Most produced wines, whether red or white or rose, are usually earthy and Terroir driven, expressive, traditional and complex with a good dose of minerality, due the prominent mountainous rocky soil.

So far, nothing abnormal or unusual, yet I had to look more closely at the label. Something intriguing caught my eyes: Derthona Timorasso? What was that? Never heard or taste it before.

"Derthona"? Despite the fact that it is the name of this wine and the regional dialect name for “Tortona”, “Derthona” is also the name of the local football club of Tortona, a little town of Piedmont nearby to where the wine also come from, which gave the eponymous name of “Colli Tortonesi” to the hilly region surrounding it and also the DOC name (Denominazione di Origine Controllata), in the province of Alessandria, about 30 kilometers north of Gavi and 60 kilometers east of Asti.

"Timorasso"? You probably rarely heard of it because it is not wildly planted, but “Timorasso” is a local, indigenous white grape variety from Piedmont, producing fresh, crisp, complex and rich, Terroir oriented whites of great minerality and acidity (and sometimes of high alcohol content). Usually fatter than Arneis and Cortese, the resulting whites (made from Timorasso) have a somewhat similar profile, in term of texture and way of coating the palate, to Falanghina or Greco, both grapes usually expressing the complexity of the volcanic soil of Campania. Do not worry if you never heard of Timorasso, because, while France counts about 50 different grape varieties, it is said that Italy counts about 2,000, including about 30 in Piedmont alone. Many being indigenous and unheard of outside the boot!

Now that I had a better picture of the wine, the grape and where it came from, something else intrigued me. Between the word “Derthona” and “Timorasso” lay the words: “un territorio, un vino, in vitigno”, which literally translate by: “one Terroir, one Wine, one Vine” (or in French: “un territoire (ou Terroir), un vin, une vigne”). It could have been the ego of the producer to show certain uniqueness, but after investigating and asked a few question to my rep., I realized that it was more to his pride that these words were referring to. Let me explain.

"Timorasso" was an endangered specie of a grape variety, that would have vanished from the Colli Tortonesi, if it wasn’t for the tenacity and determination of Walter Massa, the owner of Vigneti Massa, who clearly believed in the tremendous potential of this grape variety, which about a decade ago was on the edge of extinction, with only a few hectares remaining. Yet, alone and against all odds, he continued to produce it, until it was once rediscovered a few years ago and started to have a new following on the export market (UK and USA predominantly).

That is why he is so proud to mention on his label “one Terroir, one Wine, one Vine”, because without him and his remaining vineyard, you will not even be able to taste this delightful white from this amazing grape variety. This is his baby, and one can literally say that he is the father of the renaissance of this Sommelier and gourmet sensation, which have, over the last few years, received many accolades and acclaims from connoisseurs, amateurs and critics around the world.

Vigneti Massa is located in the abandoned hill top town of Monleale Alto, perched at around 200-300 meters, in the Colli Tortonesi, about 10 kilometers east of Tortona. Walter Massa, producer and winemaker extraordinaire, inherited the family knowledge and skills, which have been inculcate from one generation to the next since 1879. Despite his unique white made from Timorasso, Walter also craft some reds with the local grapes: Croatina, Barbera, Freisa and Nebbiolo. Four of his wines are available in the US market.

I invite you to go to the importer website for more info at http://www.portovinoitaliano.com/wineshop/producers/vigneti-massa




2009 Vigneti Massa Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi DOC White Piedmont Italy (Organic - Sustainable)
Suggested retail price $24-$27
Imported by Porto Vino Italian wines / distributed by Metropolis Wines in NYC

Made from 100% Timorasso grapes grown organically on clay and calcareous soil, from predominately two parcels on gentle hill slope: “Costa del Vento”, 1,5 hectares, western exposure, clay and calcareous soil, and “Costolio”, 0.5 hectares, southern exposure, calcareous soil. Vinified with native yeasts. Maceration press 48-60 hours; fermentation 18-22 °C; batonnage; minimum 6 months bottle aging before released on market. Light filtration.

2009 Vigneti Massa Derthona Timorasso shows a pale, yellow color. The nose is fresh and inviting with expressive aromas of blossom, peach skin and yellow fruit, mingled with herbal, floral touches and mineral nuances. The palate is also fresh, clean, and fat without being heavy, rich, complex, yet well balanced and lush, with great acidity. Inciting flavors of yellow apple, pear and citrus expand nicely toward the very long, mineral, spicy, peppery finish. It even shows good ageing potential. I will not speculate for too long, but it will definitely hold on tight for the next 2-3 years, may be 5. I love it.

Highly recommended. Serve it chilled but not cold on hearty dishes based with fish, white meat, game and poultry.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

Thursday, March 10, 2011

NV Suzuki Shuzouten Brewery Hideyoshi "La Chamte" sparkling Sake (280ml)






To follow from my previous post on Sake, here is a new Hideyoshi Sake, sparkling this time, which should arrive at the store very soon. It was introduce to me at the last visit of Linda Noel Kawabata and Mr. Naoki Suzuki, owner and 19th heir of the Suzuki family, founders of Suzuki Shuzouten Brewery Hideyoshi Brand, in the Akita region, northern Japan.



Surely one my favorite Sake brewery, amongst all the ones that I tasted lately. And with that sparkling Sake, Mr. Suzuki and Hideyoshi did it again. They succeeded to craft a really enjoyable, versatile and seamlessly good sparkling Sake.



NV Suzuki Shuzouten Brewery Hideyoshi "La Chamte" sparkling Sake (280ml)
Suggested retail price (to be confirmed on arrival when in stock at the store, supposedly by the middle or the end of March)
Imported/distributed by ASPEC (Akita Sake Promotion and Export Council) thru Winebow, Inc. in NYC

Rice: 100% Akita Komachi
Polishing off: 65%
Alcohol content: 8%
Profile: Off-dry
Bottle size: 280ml

Pale, clear, yellow-greenish color with tiny multiples, delicate bubbles. Rather fresh, the nose boasts yeasty, slightly farmy aromas of hay, chamomile, wheat and nut mingled with mineral notes. Somewhat quite different from the nose, yet friendly and really enjoyable, (almost dangerous, it's so good!), the fragrant palate is young, fresh, delicate, light and fruity. It offers mineral, peachy tones in a fresh, balanced, harmonious, gentle profile up until the end. I love it.

For those of you that may remain skeptical after sniffing it the first time, know that the yeasty nose give way to a charming, rather simple yet extremely enjoyable and palatable drinks. It is too easy to drink, you will surely finish the bottle without realizing it. Highly recommended, drink this sparkling Sake, chilled, as a refreshment by the end of the afternoon or/ and as an aperitif.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

For more info about Suzuki Shuzouten Brewery Hideyoshi Brand you can read my last post at http://www.ledomduvin.com/2011/03/little-introduction-to-sake-japanese.html and you can also go to ASPEC (Akita Sake Promotion and Export Council) website at www.aspec-sake.com

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

Sunday, March 6, 2011

A little introduction to Sake: the Japanese wine!





A little introduction to Sake: the Japanese wine!


Sake!

Did you ever taste Sake? No? Well, not many of us have, but it is more for lack of knowledge and tasting rather than dislike. Yet, although many of us can’t really explain why, Sake has recently become some sort of phenomenon in the western world. May be, it is a manner for occidentals to quiet down their ever-active-and fast-paced life-style by finding inspiration elsewhere and discover something to bright up their monotone daily routine. Like a desperate cry to express their profound desire and aspiration to a new life style, somehow a mode of tasting and embracing the peaceful Japanese philosophy and art of living and reproducing it their own way at home.

For me, up until only a few years ago, I admit that I wasn’t really acquainted with Sake. To tell you the truth, the previous store where I used to work didn’t have any. And even during my years as restaurant’s Sommelier, I rarely came across a lot of Sake(s). Most restaurants that I knew didn’t offer any until very recently. And despite the fact that it has existed for centuries, it remains a fairly undiscovered beverage for most western people.

In fact, if I recall my own history with Sake, I pretty much tasted my first one about 4-5 years ago and finally realized how many types existed and how different they were only about 3 years ago. My first experience with Sake started dubitatively with a “Junmai Ginjo”, which I loved on site by the way, and since then my interest has tremendously grown in all the different styles and types. I love them all, except may be “Nigori”, because they are usually unfiltered and milky… not really my thing, (even if I buy some for my customers).

Like wine, Sake has become somewhat of a growing passion for me. The more I learn about it and how it has always been part of the Japanese traditional life style and culture, the bigger my interest grows. And I’m not the only one.

With the latest catastrophic climate changes, (and I’m not only talking about the weather but also the world’s mood over the last decade), mankind wants to close its eyes and continue to live without thinking of these bad times, yet it suffers from them everywhere. Therefore, it is interesting to notice the recent surge for occidental people’s inevitable attraction for the enviable research of Peace and Harmony in all element contained in Asian culture in general (Chinese’s Feng Shui, Indian and Tibetan and other form of Buddhism, Yoga, etc…).

Meanwhile, it is important to say that, everywhere in the world and despite the horrific news, there is also a recrudescence of concern and interest for Nature, like a slowly awaking social consciousness and therefore, amongst other things, a come back to more natural and traditional methods and systems of life, more especially agriculture: sustainable, organic, biodynamic, natural, etc…

Yet lately, with the importance of restful, minimalist designs and quiet home life style to contrast with our everyday stressful routine dictated by technology and omnipresent ever-busy forced schedule, the Occident has turn its eyes on Japanese’s life style, peaceful and reenergizing interior and garden designs, Manga(s), cars, fashion, respect of Nature, ancient traditions, culture, sense of honor, respect in general, politeness, ancestral hosting abilities, tea ceremony and Sake (and more).

Overall and surely for our need to look at something else than our own misery, we have come to realize how far, yet how attractive and inspiring, Japanese designs, ideology, food and culture are from the western world. Therefore, atop of reiterating Japanese interior and garden designs, we also have embraced their love for this traditional beverage made entirely with rice, yet considered by most connoisseurs and amateurs as Japanese Wine.

By now, with all that has been written about it over the last few years, don’t tell me that you haven’t heard and read about Japan and its various Sake(s)!

If you did that’s great and it means that somehow you welcome trends and keep an open mind, may be you also have adopted a new life style lately and incorporated some Japanese notions into it. But, if you didn’t, that is not a problem, because I will in this post briefly open your eyes on certain aspect of the Japanese world and more especially describe some of the most enjoyable Sake(s) that I bought recently. But first we need to talk a bit about Japan, few more words about Japanese philosophy, design and other facts, and a lot about one particular Sake house on which I have been focusing on with great interest since last year: Hideyoshi.





Nisshoki (literally, Rising-Sun Flag) was adopted as Japan's national flag in 1870. It also is called Hinomaru (literally, Disk of the Sun) and Nihon no Kokki (Flag of Japan). The red circle represents the sun.

Brief words on Japan art of Life


Contemporary Japan is a secular society. Creating harmonious relations with others through reciprocity and the fulfillment of social obligations are more significant for most Japanese than an individual's relationship to a transcendent God. Harmony, order, and self-development are three of the most important values that underlie Japanese social interaction. Basic ideas about self and the nature of human society are drawn from several religious and philosophical traditions. Religious practice, too, emphasizes the maintenance of harmonious relations with others (both spiritual beings and other humans) and the fulfillment of social obligations as a member of a family and a community.

You see, and this is probably why western people are so fascinated by the far Eastern world, the “Land of the rising Sun” inhabitants have believed for centuries that balance in the universe is the essence of everything, and Japanese life style and way of doing things (dressing, cooking, meditating, etc…) and decorating interior spaces and gardens truly express that concept.

For example, in Japan but also in Japanese-interior-design inspired homes and apartments in general, the underlying design feature of a room or series of rooms is mostly dictated by the Japanese fixation on simplicity and approach to flowing interior design. Everything needs to be in harmony to create a practical and enjoyable living environment, rather than a place where conflicts between furniture, colors and useless, inadequate and untidy objects will render an unhealthy image of yourself and your way of living… (Ringing the bell? Might as well take another look in your house…).

Furniture placement and display follows prescribed rules of fluidity. In contrast to our occidental ways of decorating a room by filling it with various and abundant objects and furniture arranged on its perimeter, creating traffic patterns crossing the center, Japanese minimalist design establishes a focal point toward the center with little obstructing free visual flow and physical movement about the perimeter, concentrating the main interest of a room to a rather unique and simplistic focal point (like a bed with barely nothing around, an arranged pattern of sofas and complementing armchairs, etc…).

Another example is “doors”. Western world doors are often useless and annoying, more secure may be, when talking about doors (or windows) leading outside, but less practical and definitely less respectful of the environment and the fluidity of a room. Inside, when you open a door, you may not notice it because you are used to it and doesn’t bother you. Yet, in Japan, it usually breaks the pattern and flowing energy of the room, which is why, by tradition, Japanese doors slide on the side and often integrate the wall, opening flowingly the space and allowing harmony and energy between the rooms and/or the outside without unwanted breaks or visual annoyances.

Serenity cannot be achieved where there is clutter, therefore it is important to keep the lines and appointments of these focal points cleanly defined. All things in the room must become an element in the overall scheme of the room; as it is very important that all things in life must reflect peacefulness, harmony and integrity, without hitches and other annoyances. If you come to understand Japanese minimalism, then you will learn your personal lesson how less really can mean more, and how fluidity and harmony in your home and organized, active life marked with restful and beneficial habits can bring peace to your life and way of living.

Japanese home’s layout is very important but colors also are very important. Let’s take for example black and white, two often forgotten colors in our western world, yet extremely important in eastern Asian culture. When choosing strong or deep colors, don’t let them stand in the way of the architecture, structure and layout of the room; use them to emphasize an object or a piece of furniture. White and other neutrals, like off white and cream, will help you imply orderliness and cleanness, and colorful objects will suddenly come into view. Pretty distinctive and classic, yet rarely considered by most designers, when put to a good use, Black is usually defining and underlining forms and aligning structural geometry. In short, White(s) bring light, clean positive energy and the possibility to play with flowing nuances and colors. And that said, Black doesn’t clash; it defines.

The most beautiful and complex things in life are usually not the most complicated or busy, they are not the ones that show everything upfront and blind your eyes, no. Beauty, respect and harmony are usually found in the images, events, sensations, emotions and moments that suggest and let your imagination take over; the things that harmoniously complete each other and flowingly complement their surroundings. Hence, nature is well made! And it is wonderfully complex, yet harmonious, and somehow, Japanese design and lifestyle tend to respect this concept and reproduce it in their home and everyday life.

I could carry on for hours and many multiple paragraphs about many other Japanese things, as I read and learn about them, like: the “Geisha”, famous traditional Japanese entertainers, which have many myths about their lifestyle and history. Or even the fascinating order of the “Samurai”, once warriors in pre-industrial Japan, which are now the fierce entrepreneurs of one of the leading market in the world. But also about “Kimonos”, like the Yakuta, which represent very famous traditional Japanese clothing. I could also talk about the Japanese tea ceremony, which is a very formal event involving many exacting, methodical steps. Or yet again, about the Japanese Castles, which were the key to structure and life of many Japanese cities. And about Japanese Temples that were and still are an integral part of Japanese life and death.

But I hear you say: “What about Sake?” Well, you are right, this article is about Sake, not about Japan, even if they are tightly intricate.


Sake: the wine of Japan! What is Sake?


Sake (pronounced Saké) is a rice-based alcoholic beverage of Japanese origin. It is sometimes spelled Saké to show the pronunciation more clearly.

This beverage is called sake in English, but in Japanese, sake (酒) or o-sake (お酒) refers to alcoholic drinks in general. The Japanese term for this specific beverage is “Nihonshu” (日本酒), meaning "Japanese sake".

Sake is also referred to in English as a form of rice wine. However, unlike true wine, in which alcohol is produced by fermenting the sugar naturally present in fruit, sake is made through a brewing process more like that of beer. To make beer or sake, the sugar needed to produce alcohol must first be converted from starch. But the brewing process for sake differs from beer brewing as well, notably in that for beer, the conversion of starch to sugar and sugar to alcohol occurs in two discrete steps, but with sake they occur simultaneously. Additionally, alcohol content also differs between sake, wine, and beer. Wine generally contains 9–16% alcohol[1] and most beer is 3–9%, whereas undiluted sake is 18–20% alcohol, although this is often lowered to around 15% by diluting the sake with water prior to bottling.

  • Rice: The rice used for brewing sake is called “Shuzo Kotekimai” (sake rice). The grain is larger, stronger, and contains less protein and lipid than ordinary rice eaten by Japanese. The rice has a starch component called “Shinpaku” in the center of the grains. Since sake made from rice containing purely starch has a superior taste, the rice is polished to remove the bran. If a grain is small or weak, it will break in the process of polishing. This rice is only used for making sake because it is unpalatable for eating; it is clearly distinguished from rice for the latter purpose. There were at least 80 types of sake rice in Japan. Among these, “Yamadanishiki”, “Gohyakumangoku”, “Miyamanishiki” and “Omachi” rice are very popular.
  • Water: Water is the one of the important ingredients for making sake. Rigid restrictions are observed for the concentrations of certain chemical substances, which can affect the taste and quality of sake. The water used is almost always groundwater or well water. Urban breweries usually import water from other areas, because of the difficulty of getting water of sufficient quality locally.

I took the above information, courtesy of Wikipedia, as an introduction for the subject of Sake, yet I will not fool you by pretending that my knowledge of Sake is that sharp. No, I’m still learning and quickly developing my palate, to better understand, comprehend and appreciate this delectable beverage.


However, here are 4 very helpful links to 4 websites that will tremendously help you (and me too) deepen our knowledge about Sake:

  • http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sake (that has a great table containing the different Special Designations for Sake and straight to the point, comprehensible bullet point about the different style)
  • http://www.aspec-sake.com/ (which represents a certain amount of Sake houses, including Hideyoshi, on which I will focus in this post and which is my main Sake supplier, through Winebow Inc., in NYC)
  • http://www.wineofjapan.com/ (which also represents diverse houses of Sake and ShoChu, and is the second supplier of Sake from which I buy Sake from, in NYC)




ASPEC and Suzuki Shuzouten Hideyoshi Brand


Last year for the first time and this year again, at the beginning of February 2011, Linda Noel Kawabata, a Certified Advanced Sake Specialist and USA Brand Manager for “Akita Sake Promotion and Export Council” (ASPEC), came to visit me with one of the most eminent Japanese Sake brewery owner, Mr. Naoki Suzuki.

During these two visits, I tasted some of the most beautiful Sake(s) that I ever tasted in my life until now. Consequently, that is how Mr. Suzuki and Suzuki Shuzouten Brewery Hideyoshi Brand, which is the full name of his brewery, became, to my palate, synonyms of utmost quality in term of Sake standard.

ASPEC: Akita Sake Promotion and Export Council (ASPEC) is a new consortium of 5 dynamic, traditional, award-wining, progressive, sake breweries from Akita Prefecture, in northern Japan.

The Akita Prefecture is located in the Tohoku region of northern Japan. Its capital city by the eponymous name, Akita, is 280 miles north east of Tokyo. The prefecture is 130miles from north to south and 70 miles from east to west. Within that triangular shape lies 4 mountain ranges: the world heritage Shirakami-Sanchi mountains to the north; the Ou Mountains which form the eastern border, Running parallel to the Our mountain range is the taller Dewa Mountain range that runs through the center of the prefecture. To the south is the eternally snow capped Mount Choukai, also know as the Mt Fuji of Akita. Akita’s western border is on the rough coast of the Japan Sea.

ASPEC members have their breweries in these mountains, valleys and seacoast.

And as their sake were mostly consumed by local people and produced to pair with the local cuisine, you can clearly identify the nuances of each brewery, as you taste through the portfolio.

Founded between 1689 and 1874, for centuries Hinomaru Jozo, Suzuki Shuzouten, Akita Seishu, Tenju and Ginrin Brewery, have produced a superlative selection of hand made, artisanal sake.

The Japanese cherish the region of Akita for its natural beauty, lively festivals, delicate handicrafts, restorative hot springs, delicious seasonal foods and SAKE! Ranking fourth in total sake production, Akita is one of Japan’s most important sake producing states.

The Akita Cold Brewing method was developed in this state that is blanketed in snow throughout the long winter months.

In the awe inspiring beauty of the winter white landscape is hidden the secret of Akita Sake—the purest underground soft water sources –fertile soil and a dust free, pristine environment for producing sake.

The wisdom of hundreds of years of sake brewing in the region is collectively referred to as the “sannai” school of brewing. The Sake Brewing Masters, known as “toji,” harness the severe elements of the region, partnering with nature to create sake that is the distilled essence of the nature that surrounds them.

The Akita Cold Brewing Method ensures smooth, clean sake with full body and memorable characteristics. The people of Akita are so proud of their sake that they refer to their region as “bishuoukoku ” The Empire of beautiful sake!


Suzuki Shuzouten Brewery - Hideyoshi Brand


Suzuki Shuzouten is one of the oldest, continually operating Sake houses in Japan. It is Akita’s most well-known and respected Sake brewery. Founded by Matsuemon Suzuki in 1689, the current owner, Mr. Naoki Suzuki, is the 19th heir. The local lord Satake bestowed the name Hideyoshi on the brewery over 300 years ago.

It is said that he tasted all of the Sake in Akita and judged the Sake of this particular brewery to be the very best. To officiate that he had found Sake of superior excellence, the local Lord conferred, to the brewery, the name “Hide” (excellence) and “Yoshi” (goodness), which is also the name of the legendary feudal warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi.

Suzuki Shuzouten has lived up to that declaration of superior excellence for 300 continuous years. Producing excellent, award winning sake generation after generation is no small task. Fortunately, the Senboku region of Akita where the brewery is located has the perfect combination of natural elements necessary to produce high grade Sake. It has very fertile soil and is one of the leading rice-growing regions of Japan. The area is all the more special because of it so successfully produces the highest quality Sake rice, which is a taller, heavier and more difficult grain to grow, and by the way rather unpalatable.

Secondly, the area has pure, fresh, medium-hard, water source from the nearby Ou Mountain. From cavernous underground springs water is pumped up to a 40-meters deep well within the Suzuki Shuzouten compound. The severe winter cold is the third major ingredient. Harmonizing with nature smooth, full bodied, satisfying taste. While they take advantage of all that nature supplies, and are committed to traditional brewing methods, Hideyoshi continues to challenge itself, believing in continuous innovation. Hideyoshi developed a new strain of sake rice as well as the region’s first Junmai yeast.



Picture of Linda Noel Kawabata and Mr. Naoki Suzuki, owner of Suzuki Shuzouten Brewery - Hideyoshi Brand, next to the Sake section at Heights Chateau. Section that I just revamped with 6 of Hideyoshi Sake and 15 other labels from a few selected brands. I would love to have more on the shelves, but somehow demand is still fairly low and I prefer to have a small selection of carefully selected high quality Sake that will sell, rather than have too many of Ok quality Sake that will not move from the shelves.

Mr.Naoki Suzuki is the 19th heir to the Suzuki Sake house. He was born in the winter of 1960. “I was born right in the brewery compound. I grew up listening to the stories of ancestors and episodes from the olden days of the brewery. I fondly remember sticking my finger in the sake my father and grandfather tasted. I was five years old. Throughout my life, with every story and every shared taste of sake they prepared me to become heir to this historical brewery: Suzuki Shuzouten.” - Mr.Naoki Suzuki

Mr.Suzuki is proud to introduce 6 of its Sake to the American market and audience: “The American gourmet will discover their very own pairings of our sake with the foods they love. This will bring us tremendous joy. KANPAI! CHEERS!” – Mr. Naoki Suzuki

Once presentations were done, we lengthily talked about the process of making Sake and how the percentage of external part rubbed off (polished off) the grain of rice to obtain the purest core and consequently starch, is very important. We tasted the following Sake under Linda’s knowledgeable explanations and translations of the detailed comments from Mr. Suzuki.

I can say that, like often with wine and their winemaker, the various Sake(s) (that we tasted) reflected the kindness, politeness, complexity, generosity and bonhomie emanating from Mr. Suzuki, a man of extreme focus and gentleness, with a good sense of humor and friendly manners that makes you feel comfortable from the start and let you think that you’ve known him forever.

Whether from Hideyoshi or the other brands of ASPEC, all the Sake are coming from the Akita region, northern Japan, and, as we will have done for wines, we tasted them from the lightest to the heaviest, or more elegantly, from the friendliest to the most complex.

The following are the Sake that I tasted with the team during the latest tasting with Linda and Mr. Suzuki; yet I will soon complete them with the descriptions of the ones from the first visit, which where mostly from Hideyoshi and were all fantastic and highly recommended.




Hinomaru Manabito Ginjo Sake (from the Hinomaru brewery)
Suggested retail price $23-$26
Imported / Distributed by ASPEC thru Winebow Inc. in NYC

Profile: Semi-sweet
Polishing Ratio: about 50%
Served Chilled

Hinomaru Brewery was made “the truest of the true” Sake since it was funded by Kutsuzawa Jinbei in 1689 in Yokote townin the southern part of Akita prefecture. A snowy region of northwestern Japan, Yokote is nestled in an agricultural belt long known for its fertile land and superior rice production.

Hinomaru Manabito Ginjo Sake has a clean, clear, transparent color. The nose boasts beautiful, fresh, fruity aromas of peach and citrus and white stone fruit and minerals. The palate is soft, fruity with flavors of melon fruit, honeydew and freshly cut melon peel. Despite slight green edges, which bring ever more freshness to the overall taste, this Sake is light, bright, focus, very balanced and extremely approachable, on the fruit side without being sweet. Litchi and melon are the primary fruit. Excellent and highly recommended for everybody and all occasions! Served chilled as an aperitif with "hors d’oeuvres".




Dewatsuru Habataki Junmai Gingo Sake (from the Dewatsuru Brewery)
Suggested retail price $27-$30
Imported / Distributed by ASPEC thru Winebow Inc. in NYC

Profile: Dry
Polishing ratio: 55%
Rice: Akinosei
Alc: 14-14,9%
Serve Chilled or room temperature

Jushiro Ito founded Akita Seishu Dewatsuru in 1865, in a 150-yearold thatched roof estate that was built at the end of the Edo period in Daisen City, in Akita.

Beside its clean and clear color, Dewatsuru Habataki Junmai Gingo Sake offers a dry, slightly restraint, lightly meaty (bacony may be) nose with hints of Vanilla beans and floral, herbal notes (hay, chamomile), slightly farmy. The palate is fairly light, and dry, a touch fuller than previous one with earthy, meaty, nutty flavors resembling of meat fat and egg corn. Balanced and food friendly, this is a lovely Sake need to be served chilled or room temperature with starters like green and / or vegetable salad and charcuterie. Well crafted.




Dewatsuru Kimoto Junmai Sake (from the Dewatsuru Brewery)
Suggested retail price $25-$28
Imported / Distributed by ASPEC thru Winebow Inc. in NYC

Profile: Semi-dry
Polishing ratio: 65%
Rice: Miyamanishiki & Menkoina Alc: 14-14,9%
Serve room temperature or slightly warm

Jushiro Ito founded Akita Seishu Dewatsuru in 1865, in a 150-yearold thatched roof estate that was built at the end of the Edo period in Daisen City, in Akita.

Behind its clean and clear color, Dewatsuru Kimoto Junmai Sake develops expressive meaty and farmy aromas, more than the previous one, with intermingled notes of meat fat, grilled bread, starch, hay, farina, and slightly roasted, earthy notes. The palate is quite full, earthy with great balance, focus and same yet stronger flavors as the nose, offering a medley of nuances between meat, toasted, roasted, grilled bread, meat fat, mushroom and cereals. Excellent with food, this earthier Sake will be great with Spanish food: Jamon Iberico and Paella de Pollo y Mariscos. Excellent, definitely recommended.




Hideyoshi Honjozo Sake (from Hideyoshi Brewery)
Suggested retail price $25-$28
Imported / Distributed by ASPEC thru Winebow Inc. in NYC

Profile: Semi-dry
Polishing Ratio: 65%
Rice: Menkoina
Serve: chilled or lukewarm

As one of my favorite Japanese Brewery, it was a pleasure to once again taste Sake from Hideyoshi, after discovering them for the first time last year.

Hideyoshi Honjozo is considered as the father of Honjozo Sake. The depth and complexity of this Honjozo express the true potential of the classification. Honjozo means “Spiritual Balance” and is a Sake which was cut with spirit/ alcohol during the brewing process.

Hideyoshi Honjozo Sake nose offers rustic, earthy flavors of rye and oats, and here again, a lot of meaty, nutty, roasted nuts, grilled toast, mushroom, forest floor, and tertiary aromas. It is rich, clean, fruity and nutty on the palate, with flavors of date fruit, stone core dried fruit and lot of mineral, with a wonderful, long finish. So far it the strongest Sake of the bunch, it is excellent too and seems that it was made exclusively to be paired with earthy, substantial food. It pairs well with grilled meats and hearty soups. Love it, highly recommended.




Minato Harbor Tsuchizaki Yamahai Nama Genshu: Futsu Sake (from Naba Shouten Ginrin Brand)
Suggested retail price $25-$28
Imported / Distributed by ASPEC thru Winebow Inc. in NYC

Naba Shouten (Ginrin Brand) is a company that was successfully selling merchandise to the ruling feudal clan of Akita, when in 1815, the leader of the clan, Satake Yoshikazu, ordered Yusei Saburouemon to make an experimental sake brewery. One hundred and thirteen years later, in 1928, under the direction of Akita Prefecture Brewing Research Center, Mr. Masatsune Hanaoka, Naba Shouten built the first reinforced concrete Sake brewery in Tohoku, the Northeastern region of Japan.

The brewery, located right at the Sea of Japan, is called Ginrin Brewery. Traditions meet trendy at Ginrin Brewery where they revitalized the ancient Yamahai Sake brewing method within a modern concrete structure. The name “GINRIN” is in honor of the sake-loving fishermen in the port town. The Sea of Japan is known for its rough waters and the valor of the local fishermen. In the traditional song, “Soranbushi”, the fishermen celebrate a bountiful haul while enjoying sake and singing: “The fish glisten silver, the seagulls swirl, the sun shines well upon us!”.

“Yamahai” is the term given to Sake where lactic acid is allowed to develop spontaneously in the early, “moto” yeast fermentation stage of Sake production. Allowing this naturally occurring process requires great skill and patience from “Toji” (master Sake brewer), Mr. Katsuhiro Fujita, because more wild yeast and bacteria purposely become part of the brew. The flavor profiles that result are wonderfully rich and tangy and invite a host of delectable food pairings.

Profile: Semi-sweet
Polishing Ratio: 67%
Rice: Miyama Nishiki
Alcohol: 20-21%

With a clean and clear color, Minato Harbor Tsuchizaki Yamahai Nama Genshu: Futsu Sake, undiluted and unpasteurized, offers richness and freshness at the same time. The nose offers very expressive aromas of nutty, dried fruit, date, apricot, melon peel, litchi, dry chamomile flowers, white blossom and nuances of freshly cut hay. The palate is beautifully balanced and inviting, with excellent texture and deep, concentrated flavors yet it is elegant and refine. I love it. Serve it chilled or room temperature over fish in sauce, shellfish and white meat dishes. Beautiful and highly recommended.



To resume, I will say that I overused the word “excellent” for all the above Sake and in general for all Sake from Hideyoshi, but it is true, despite my learning novice palate in term of Sake, my sharp and discriminating palate in term of wine is assuring me that I’m not wrong about my feeling and sensations regarding these Sake. My taste buds definitely agree too and are asking for more. I’m urging you to embrace the world of Sake and discover the extremely diversified types and flavors that they have to offer and that are available at your local store or online.

You will never insist enough about the fact that you should go to www.HeightsChateau.com to find out about all the Sake that I bought lately, as well as all the wines too. We have a "What's New" rubric that we update weekly.

You can also go to http://www.sakayanyc.com and visit the site of the only Sake specialized boutique store in Manhattan. Or even consult http://www.urbansake.com, which is a great Sake website.

I hope, as usual, that this post, even if extremely long, was informative and gave you the desire to discover Sake. Promises, I will soon find my notes that I misplaced about the first visit of Linda and Mr. Suzuki and post them ASAP.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info about the wineries taken and edited from the "ASPEC" brochure left at the store by Linda, and also from the ASPEC website at www.aspec-sake.com and certain details from our conversation with Mr.Suzuki. Part of the other info courtesy of www.Wikipedia.com and other inspiring references in books and related articles about Japan read within the last few years.

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.