Friday, April 22, 2011

LeDomduVin: Font I Jordana NV Brut Reserva Cava





Font I Jordana NV Brut Reserva Cava Spain


« Cava » is the champagne of Spain. Generally produced in the Penedes region of Catalonia, northwestern Barcelona, Cava, as its name indicates, is made and aged in limestone underground caves, similar to those of Champagne, hence its name. A blend of three indigenous grapes, Xarel-lo, Macabeau, and Parellada, this 100% organic Cava possesses lovely, tight bubbles, enticing mineral and lightly toasted brioche notes on the nose, and beautiful balanced palate with lot nuances and minerals leading toward the dry finish.

Enjoy,

Cheers! Santé!

Dom (aka LeDomduVin, aka Dominique Noel)

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #cava @fontijordana #fontijordana #spain #bubbles #bubbly #wine #vin #vino #wine #tastingnotes #sommelier #winebuyer

2009 Weingut Pittnauer St. Laurent Dorflagen Burgenland Austria

 Weingut Pittnauer

Owned by Gerhard and Brigitte Pittnauer, Weingut Pittnauer is located on the eastern shore of the Neusiedlersee (also called Lake Neusied in English) in Austria's Burgenland region, which is at the eastern extremity of Austria bordering with Hungary.

The special micro-climate of this district is characterized by Austria's longest hours of sunlight, high humidity and moderate temperatures influenced by the large, shallow lake Neusiedlersee. The winery possesses vineyards with excellent exposure and location, which form the basis for their ambitious wines.

The young couple Brigit and Gerhard Pittnauer are considered as St. Laurent specialists and their Pinot Noir is one of the best varietal representatives from Austria. Pittnauer is a 100% biodynamic winery.

Weingut Pittnauer produces a few wines including 5 that are available in the US market through Savio Soares Selections: Blaufrankisch, Velvet, Zweigelt, Pittnauer Rot and our wine of today St. Laurent. 



2009 Weingut Pittnauer St. Laurent Dorflagen Burgenland Austria
Suggested retail price $20-$23
Imported / distributed by Savio Soares Selections in NYC

Often characterized as Pinot Noir on steroids, St. Laurent is a grape found in Austria and southern Germany that is related to Pinot Noir, but it is much bigger in style than most pinots. The Klassik is a St. Laurent that sees only 6 months in used barriques. A fruit forward style of Austrian wine with dark cherries and blackberries on the palate. 100% Biodynamic!

100% St. Laurent handpicked, sorted and crushed into stainless steel tanks. Fermentation alcoholic occurs in temperature controlled stainless steel vats with natural yeasts only. The must remains on the skins for controlled extraction. The wine is then racked into French oak where the malolactic fermentation takes place and it is left in oak for 6-10 months ageing. Once bottled, it spends several more months to rest in the bottle before release.          

The 2009 St. Laurent Dorflagen presents a dark, almost inky ruby color. On the nose delicate nuances of mint, minerals and citrus zest, nicely mingled with characteristic ripe black berries aromas and subtle herbal, earthy notes. On the palate, complexity, freshness and refine acidity enhance the intense cassis fruit and other dark wild berries flavors. The finish is long and mineral with very good aging potential. It is a pretty exceptional, balanced, rich and enjoyable wine with great acidity, ripeness and other characteristics very specific to the St. Laurent grape. Highly recommended, especially if you never tasted a St. Laurent grape based wine.

Enjoy!
LeDom du Vin

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

Monday, April 18, 2011

Canadian Club Whisky from 1956 and Benedictine from the 50s

A few months ago, my boss received some old bottles of spirits and liqueurs from a friend, which were probably used as decorative bottles on a counter or on the top forgotten shelves of a bar somewhere.

Somehow too old to be sold within the store and one of them being a Canadian whisky from 1956, which I found pretty incredible that a bottle from 1956 could still be standing 50+ years later, I asked my boss if I could take 1 or 2 for memory sake for my father born in late 40s (or for myself who knows).

However, I ended up bringing back home 2 bottles: 1 bottle of Canadian Club 1956 and 1 bottle of DOM Benedictine probably from the 50s too. I put them on the top of my kitchen cabinet, thinking that one day I will send them to my father. Yet, a few days after Christmas, my wife and I welcomed a new addition to our little family, a beautiful little baby girl.

We had something to celebrate, but my wife was at the hospital. Fortunately, a friend and my mum came for Christmas and stayed for a few days after; consequently, my friend and I, and because my mother doesn't drink whisky, we had to have a drink, and the bottle of 1956 Canadian Club seemed very appropriate for the occasion.

Canadian Club is a brand of whisky from Canada. Popularly known as C.C., Canadian Club began production in 1858. It was established by Hiram Walker, and was known as Walker’s Club Whiskey.

Surprisingly after all these years, the label or the plastic cork weren't even damaged and the whisky was still showing at his best. Light golden-amber color in the glass. The fragrant nose offered light touches of oak, spice and vanilla. The palate was light, gentle, smooth and lightly sweet, with no harshness in the finish. This Canadian whisky had some of the smokey, sweet flavor of bourbon, but its smoothness was somewhat similar and closer to an old Scotch whisky. Really enjoyable for a whisky boasting 86.8 US proof or 43.4% of alcohol, and that has been bottled 55 years ago.

It was good a way to celebrate a new born. As for the Benedictine, it is still "throning" atop the kitchen cabinet.

Here is a few pictures of the bottles and labels.

     




















Collectors, sorry! I will drink these two bottles at some point or another.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Wine & Spirits vocabulary: Quick and Easy Chart of size and volume (and name) conversion from the US System to the Metric System

In the US, where the metric system isn't fully used, integrated or even understood, despite the number of citizens and immigrants using it everyday, it is sometimes difficult to spontaneously convert sizes and other measurements, especially when faced with a situation where both persons say the same thing but in fact have no idea what the other one is saying.

When I first arrived in the US, in 2002, very often at the store, customers asked me for “pints” or “quarts” or a "gallon", and I need to admit that it took me a bit of time to get acquainted with the different sizes and names. When you've grown up all your life using it, it is easy, yet even some American that I know still have no clue. I was even asking my wife to help me to comprehend that new system, which was quite intriguing for a European guy like me.

Since then, I learn how to spontaneously convert things in my head, but it took me a few years to get to that point. Therefore, and because I think that I’m not the only person facing that problem, here is a quick and easy chart, to help you every time you need to.

This short chart is by no mean exhaustive and I'm sure that I could have add plenty of other things... but, hey, that's an helpful start!


Wine & Spirits: Quick and Easy Chart of size and volume (and name) conversion from the US System to the Metric System


US & UK Unit system Metric System
Length Helpful conversion Length
1 inch 2.54 centimeters
1 foot 12 inches 30.4801 centimeters
1 yard 3 feet 91.44 centimeters
1 mile 5,280 feet 1.609344 kilometers
3.937008 inches 10 centimeters
39.370079 inches 3.28084 feet 1 meter
328.08399 feet 109.36133 yards 100 meters
1093.613298 yards 0.621371 miles 1 kilometers
Area Area
1 square feet 0.092903 square meters
100 square feet 0.92903 square meters
100 square yards 83.612736 square meters
1 ares 100 square meters
1 acres 4046.856422 square meters 0.404686 hectares
10.76391 square feet 1.19599 square yards 1 square meters
107.639104 square feet 11.9599 square yards 10 square meters
1076.391042 square feet 119.599005 square yards 100 square meters
107639.104167 square feet 2.471054 acres 1 hectares
24.710538 acres 10 hectares
US Liquid Btle name US Liquid Btle volume Metric Bottle volume
A Nip (given name in store) 0.033814 ounce 50 ml (or a shot)
A Half Pint (given name in store, not official name because of volume = 236.5ml) 0.422675 pint or 6.762805 ounces 200 ml
A Pint (given name in store, not official name because of volume = 473ml) 0.792516 pint or 12.680259 ounces 375 ml (half a bottle)
A Fifth (given name in store, not official name because of the volume = 757ml) 25.360517 ounces or 0.198 gallon 750 ml (regular bottle)
Quart (given name in store, not official name because of volume = 946ml) 0.264172 gallon 1 Liter (1L)
0.396258 gallon 1.5L (magnum or 2 bottles)
Half a Gallon (given name in store, not official name because of volume = 1.892L) 0.462301 gallon 1.75L
0.792516 gallon 3L (Double Magnum or 4 bottles)
0.792516 gallon 3L (Jeroboam Champagne or 4 bottles)
1 gallon (given name in store, not official name because of volume = 3.785L) 1.056688 gallon 4L
1.188774 gallon 4.5L (Jeroboam Bordeaux or 6 bottles)
1.188774 gallon 4.5L (Rehoboam Champagne or 6 bottles)
1.32086 gallon 5L
1.585032 gallon 6L (Imperial or 8 bottles)
2.377548 gallons 9L (Salmanazar or 12 bottles)
3.170065 gallons 12L (Balthazar or 16 bottles)
3.962581 gallons 15L (Nabuchodonosor or 20 bottles)
26.417205 gallons 1 hectoliter (or 100L)
56.796991 gallons 1 Beaujolais Barrel (215L)
59.438712 gallons 1 Bordeaux Oak Barrel also called "Bordelaise" (225L)
60.231228 gallons 1 Burgundy Oak Barrel also called "Pièce" (228L)
60.759572 gallons 1 Maine et Loire Barrel (230L)
63.401293 gallons 1 Sarthe Barrel (240-250L)
79.251616 gallons 1 French Hogshead Oak Barrel (300L)
237.754847 gallons 1 Tonneau (Big Oak vat) (900L or 4 Bordeaux Barrels or 9 hectoliters)
1 (liquid) US pint (pt) Official US Pint size (16 ounces) 473.1765 ml
1 (liquid) US quart (qt)  Official US Quart size (32 ounces) 946.3529 ml
1 (liquid) US gallon (gal) Official US Gallon size (128 ounces or 4 quarts)   3.785412 L
1 (liquid) barrel (US) 31.5 gal or 12 hogshead 19.2405 L
1 oil barrel (US) 42 gal or 23 hogshead 158.9873 L
1 hogshead (US) 63 gal or 8.421875 cu ft 238.4810 L
 
www.LeDomduVin.com


Created by LeDom du Vin with a little help from http://www.digitaldutch.com/unitconverter/

Enjoy! and let's hope that it will help you.

LeDom du Vin

Sunday, April 17, 2011

2009 Castello di Luzzano “Carlino” Bonarda dell’ Oltrepo Pavese Lombardy Italy


2009 Castello di Luzzano “Carlino” Bonarda dell’ Oltrepo Pavese Lombardy Italy  

Owned by the Fugazza family, Castello di Luzzano is an estate located in Rovescala, a commune in the Province of Pavia, located about 50 km southeast of Milan and about 25 km southeast of Pavia, in the Oltrepò Pavese, in the Italian region of Lombardy.

Lombardy (or Lombardia) is one of the 20 main regions of Italy, which represents the central northern part of Italy, squeezed between Piedmont to the west, Austria to the North, Trentino – Alto-Adige to the east, and Emilia-Romagna to the south. The capital is Milan.

The “Oltrepò Pavese” region is an area in the Province of Pavia, around the town of Pavia located about 36-38 kilometers south of Milan in the southwestern part of Lombardy, which lies to the south of the river Po. This explains the word “Oltrepò”, meaning that the region is located “oltre” (beyond) the Pò River, when considered from the provincial capital Pavia.)

Producing dark, earthy and slightly tannic wines, Bonarda is a red grape variety known as “Corbeau” or “Douce Noir” in the Savoie in France, where it is supposed to have originated from. Yet, it is also a name applied to several different grape varieties used to make red wine predominately in northern Italy and other parts of the world. It grows under the name of “Charbono” in California. It is now wildly planted in Argentina where it benefits from ideal growing condition and produces great everyday red wines that can easily rival some Malbec.  

Finding its ground of predilection in Italy, it bears the name of “Dolce Nero” and more specifically “Bonarda Piedmontese” in Piedmont, where it is usually labeled with the name of the main town or the region it comes from (i.e. Bonarda di Gattinara or Bonarda del Monferrato); yet in Lombardy, around Pavia, the locals call it “Croatina”, but it is more often labeled as “Bonarda dell’ Oltrepò Pavese”. Consequently, Bonarda is the most noted, most prestigious variety of the area, and is grown almost exclusively around the town of Rovescala. 

Nestled at about 300 meters above sea level, on the foothills that rise from the Po Valley between Piacenza and Pavia, Castello di Luzzano consists of a small hilltop ancient town surrounded by vineyards. The village is made up of the Castle of Roman origin, houses dating back to 600AD and a beautiful neo-classical church. The renovation project began in the '80s, with the intention of renovating each building to its original splendor, which would give a needed renaissance to this old village and bring back the effervescence that existed when many families lived there and the village was full of life.

With the concept of ecotourism and vititourism in mind, the intent was to restore and transform the peasants’ homes into apartments for guests, to provide an environment where they could breathe history, art and the culture of wine. Giovanella, one of two owners, personally took care of the project and began the work that still continue today, given the large number of existing rural buildings in the village.

“Carlino”, which now the name of the wine produced with the Bonarda grapes from the best parcels of the estate, was from what I can understand from the following text, a person, a neighbor maybe, but surely a friend yet competitor of the Fugazza family and a winemaker that used to make a great Bonarda. There is no real explanation on the winery website, yet I think that the “Carlino” wine has been name in memory of this man and the quality of the Bonarda wine he used to produce. 

Here is the text: 

“Carlino is the name by which Carlo Ferrari was always known. He was married to the delightful Clara and was with us for over 70 years. He knew absolutely everything about Luzzano and as his memory remained excellent right into his old age we would often spend time chatting to him. He was a bit of a lazybones, but never with his vines, which he cultivated with great love and skill. We miss Carlino's subtle jokes, but we miss even more his love for good wine, and the touching way he used to go and get a bottle from the cellars and present it to us, as if to say that his Bonarda was better than ours. It was, but even if it hadn't been we'd never have dared say so. Carlino and fellow-worker Oreste were good friends but they were always in competition over the quality of their grapes. But Carlino's Bonarda, with its label reproducing the design on an 18th century ceramic vase we have at Luzzano, is deservedly his.”   




2009 Castello di Luzzano “Carlino” Bonarda dell’ Oltrepo Pavese Lombardy Italy 
Suggested retail price  $15-$18 
Imported / distributed by VIAS Wine Import in NYC

Stefano Testa, the winemaker, craft this wine with 100% Croatina (or Bonarda), from vines under sustainable farming, oriented southwest and planted at about 210 meters above sea level (690ft) on calcareous-marl soil. Coming from their top sights, the grapes used to produce “Carlino” are crushed, destemmed and vinified until total dryness, meaning with no residual sweetness after fermentation. The ageing process occurs only in stainless steel vat for at least twelve months to keep the freshness of the fruit. About 5,000 bottles produced per vintage.

In the glass, it exposes a bright, deep dark ruby color with purple reflects. Quite intense, the nose offers aromas of nicely ripe dark fruit and berries, violet, earth and soil. The palate is really juicy, with dark, concentrated, ripe and earthy dark fruit flavors and Terroir oriented notes, with great acidity and tannic structure. The finish is dry and textured with reminiscent raw soil components. It definitely tastes “Natural”, which could slightly displease the no-organic-and-no-biodynamic-and-no-natural wine lovers, yet I found it excellent, quite complex, rich and definitely worth trying. An earthy and hearty food friendly wine that will pair ideally with charcuterie, pasta in meat-based sauces and some risottos, all pork dishes and most game and stew dishes.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from the importer website at http://www.viaswine.com and from the winery website at http://www.castelloluzzano.it


Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

Thursday, April 14, 2011

NY Loves Japan fund raiser night at LaVenue on Wednesday, April 27th 2011

  
NY Loves Japan fund raiser night at LaVenue on Wednesday, April 27th 2011

Dear friends and Sake amateurs and lovers,

Following, my last 2 recent posts about Sake and the Suzuki Shuzouten Brewery Hideyoshi Brand, and more especially after the last two earthquakes in Japan, it is important for me to express my concern and try to help in my own way, by promoting an event to raise money for the Japanese in need.

Join Linda Noel Kawabata, a Certified Advanced Sake Specialist and USA Brand Manager for “Akita Sake Promotion and Export Council” (ASPEC), who came to visit me with one of the most eminent Japanese Sake brewery owner, Mr. Naoki Suzuki, last year and at the beginning of this year, and a lot of other concerned people, for a celebration of Japan's culinary artistry and traditional Japanese sake, in a unique fund raiser night, on Wednesday April 27th.

Event:         NY Loves Japan  

An Evening of Sake and Food to Benefit the Victims of the Earthquake and Tsunami in Japan        

Date:         Wednesday April 27th 

Location:   LaVenue  (generously donated the space)
                 269, 11th Avenue
                 New York, NY 10001                
                 Between 27th and 28th Street
                 http://www.lavenue-ny.com (the address on their web is different, yet just around the corner)

Time:         6:00PM -7:00PM  Special Ultra Premium Sake tasting (limited)

Ticket:       $175  

Rare opportunity to taste specially selected Daiginjo Sakes in a VIP tasting room and participate in all               

Time:         7:00PM -10:00PM  General Admission

Ticket:       $100 on line in advance                  $125 at the door 

To Purchase Tickets:    http://www.nylovesjapan.com   


What to expect:  100 sake!!  food from 15 restaurants!! huge space!! live jazz band!! DJ!! art auction

If you are unable to attend; please Donate..

Thank you,

Best regards,

LeDom du Vin on behalf of Linda Noel Kawabata and all the people involved in NY Loves Japan 

Heights Chateau 25th Anniversary Tasting at Brooklyn Historical Society on Wednesday, May 18th 2011

Monday, April 4, 2011

2009 Domaine "Les Lys Sacrés" Brouilly Beaujolais Bourgogne France

No doubt, 2009 is an excellent vintage across the board in France, but in my opinion more particularly in Beaujolais. It is quite amazing frankly that most, if not all, 2009 Beaujolais that I tasted were ranging from very good to truly fantastic. There must be some bad ones somewhere, but I have yet to taste them. I will write soon about a great one that I loved, but here is one that I really enjoyed too.  

Domaine "Les Lys Sacrés"  

Domaine Les Lys Sacrés is located in the village of Odenas, about 3 kilometers south of Brouilly, in the Beaujolais region, a commune the French "departement" of the Rhône, part of the Rhône-Alpes region.

I know it is a bit confusing to think that all Beaujolais are produced in the Departement of the Rhône, and are not a part of the Rhône valley wines but Burgundy wines; and that most Rhone Valley wines are produced in the departements of "Isere" and "Drome" and not in the "departement" of the Rhône, but in the region of Rhône-Alpes. You may have also notice that certain producers stopped putting the name "Rhône" (for the departement after the village of origin) on their label to avoid the confusion.

However, to go back to our wine of the day, this is a traditional estate, earthy and surely organic,  that do everything the old way, especially the harvest as specified on the label: "Récolte à l'Ancienne" Work in the vineyards is done under "Lutte Raisonnée", which means natural and sustainable methods, adapted to the different vineyards depending on the quality of the vintage, with minimal use of chemicals (pesticides, herbicides, etc..) only when necessary.



2009 Domaine "Les Lys Sacrés" Brouilly Beaujolais Bourgogne France
Suggested retail price $14-$17
Imported / Distributed by Alan Bradley Imports in NYC (with help via Francki Selections)

100% Gamay, 2009 Les Lys Sacrés possesses a light purple-ruby color of medium intensity, with attractive reflects. The fresh and complex nose boasts aromas of cherry, ripe dark fruit, spices and herbs mingled with hints of minerality and smokey notes. Offering the type of flavors, the palate is soft, balanced, well rounded and quite fruit forward due to the ripeness of the vintage, yet it feels summery and crisp due to a good amount of acidity. Overall easy going, friendly and very approcheable. The finish is quite long and juicy with velvety tannins. Somehow thirst quenching I must say. Very nice and versatile, it will pair well with charcuterie, hors d'oeuvres and more complex dishes based with poultry, game and grilled white meat like pork or veal.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

2004 La Coume Du Roy "Le Desir" Côtes du Roussillon Villages France

Unfortunately, I realized that with 2 kids, I have less time to write on the blog, because they are my priority and this blog is just for fun and to share some of my finds for the store with you. I also realized that most of the times I'm a bit too thorough and too long, so I will try to be more succinct or only write the tasting notes of the wine but with less rather than the full historic and description of the Domaine, which is going to be a challenge. Let's try. 


La Coume du Roy

La Coume du Roy is a Domaine from Roussillon, nestled in the little village of Maury and renowned for its red wines, more especially its old vintage Maury sweet red wines, classified as VDN (Vin Doux Naturel).

Maury is a village located in the northwestern part of the Roussillon region. It is also an "Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée" for wines, mostly red made from at least 75% Grenache Noir grapes, and a few whites and rosés. Other permitted grapes are Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, and (rarely used) Macabeu, Malvoisie and Muscat.

Maury is well-known for its sweet, fortified dessert wines. Located in the Pyrenees-Orientales, near the French "departement" of "l'Aude", the appellation take its characteristics and its name from its dark schistous marls soil. Maury produces essentially "Vin Doux Naturel" red wines presenting various styles depending on the vinification and the ageing process. Great as an aperitif when young, the sweet Maury bear the characteristic of the Grenache grapes with flavors of "Griottes" (wild cherry) and other dark wild berries. With time, they generally evolve towards old prune, fig and jammy fruit, and pair well with cheese and chocolate dessert, somewhat very similar to port wine. "Mas Amiel" is usually the name of reference for Maury, yet "La Coume du Roy", although less notorious, is also a classic estate from this appellation and surely one of the oldest.    

La Coume du Roy is a beautiful Family story. It is the story of the evolution of “Domaine de Maurydoré” which was later renamed “Domaine de La Coume du Roy”. 

Domaine de La Coume du Roy is one of the oldest cellars of Maury, having roots dating back to 1932, when it was still called “Maurydoré”, a brand name established by Désiré Esteve, the great-grandfather of the actual owner. Winemaking skills and knowledge have been transferred into the family for the past six generations. 

Today, Agnès de Volontat-Bachelet who took over the family estate runs this domaine of 25 hectares of vines planted on dark non-metamorphic and decomposed schistose stony soil. 

The Domaine produces 3 types of wines on 3 different appellations within the Roussillon region:
  • Maury: sweet red wines mainly crafted with Grenache Noir, blended with Grenache Blanc and Gris. 
  • Muscat de Rivesaltes: sweet white wine crafted with Muscat d’Alexandrie a Petits Grains. 
  • Côtes du Roussillon Villages Red: full-bodied, earthy red wine crafted mainly with Grenache, Syrah and Carignan.      

The love for their Terroir is also a family story because the Domaine still possesses some very old vintages of Maury that were kept aside for years by Désiré for the birth of all of his descendants. These rare gems are nowadays meticulously released on the market and available in tiny quantities. Aged in oak barrels for years, these old Maury are invaluable treasures for the Domaine and for your palate too when paired with cheeses, chocolate desserts or even a cigar.  

However, even If I love their old Maury that I had multiple occasions to taste, I just bought the 2004 "Le Desir" and here is what I thought of it.



2004 La Coume Du Roy "Le Desir" Côtes du Roussillon Villages France
Suggested retail price $11-$14
Imported / distributed by Alan Bradley Imports in NYC (with the help of Francki Selections)

A blend of roughly 70% Grenache and 30% Carignan, 2004 "Le Desir" presents a fairly dark ruby-garnet color. Although still quite young, it already offers secondary and tertiary aromas on the nose (that are normally signs of age in older wines or wines that have aged too prematurely), with fig, old prune, ripe dark jammy and scorched fruits, earth, soil, leather, roasted nuts and slight woody notes. The palate also boasts complex earthy and Terroir driven flavors and nuances with ripe figs, roasted tomatoes, compote, red and dark ripe fruits, roasted nuts, chocolate and hints of oak. Quite balanced and juicy, a touch rustic but in a good way, the overall palate is soft textured, really approachable, with a solid yet integrated tannic structure and a long, earthy, chocolaty finish. Personally, I found it excellent, a bit old school and traditional, yet nothing abnormal or faulty.   

The fruit may feel slightly stewed and the nose a bit old, but I think it is more the style of the house than a fault, and remember that the climate and the soil in Rousillon are rather dry and arid and constantly swept by the Tramontane wind, which sometimes can result in sun drenched fruits that may be partially scorched if left too long on the vines. Yet, like I love them as a good Frenchman and a grandson of a winemaker, it is once again a wine for wine lovers and connoisseurs, surely not your everyday heavily marketed stuff, but in my opinion better and definitely worth trying.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info partially taken and edited from the winery website at www.lacoumeduroy.com 

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.
    

2009 Losen Bockstanz Riesling Kabinett Wittlich Mosel Germany


Weingut Losen-Bockstanz Mosel Germany  

Historically, the roots of the Losen-Bockstanz estate go back to the 16th century. As of today, Thomas Losen and his family manage this small, traditional estate. 

Weingut Losen-Bockstanz is located in Wittlich, a little village on the eastern bank of the Mosel River, about 36 kilometers northeast of Trier and about 95 kilometers southwest of Koblenz, nestled the middle of the famous Mosel region, which possesses ideal vine-growing conditions perfectly adapted to the Riesling grape variety and produces some of the best wines of Germany.  

Losen-Bockstanz wine’s quality primarily comes from the quality of the fruit and the location of the vineyards. The skill and experience of generations of winemaking, supplemented by the latest technologies and techniques in the vineyard and cellar serve only one purpose: to produce the best wines, expressive of their Terroir of origin. Regardless of the vintage, location and variety, Losen-Bockstanz wines always have something special that makes you get back to them. 

Wine is a gift of nature: the unique fauna and flora in the midst of the most beautiful area of the Mosel bear witness to this, which means natural wine. Here, in this magnificent décor of gentle hill slopes covered with vines and overlooking tranquil rivers, the winery produces premium, complex still and sparkling wines, which are characterized by excellent focus, harmony and taste.   

Like most wineries in Germany and more particularly in Mosel, Losen-Bockstanz produces multiple Riesling wines ranging from rather dry and off-dry (Kabinett), to sweet late harvest (Spatlese) and selected harvest (Auslese) and even sweeter dessert wines made from selection of botrytised grapes (Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese).  

According to the Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete (QbA) and Pradikatswein system, the sweetness in most German white wines is determined by the time of the harvest and précised on the label by the following words, also representing categories: Kabinett, Spatlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese and Eiswein. Any wine not mentioning any of the cited categories is usually a dryer style (Classic, Trocken). Other names on the label refer usually to the vineyard and / or the village and / or the region of origin.   

Obviously, the later the harvest will happen, the riper the grapes will be, therefore containing higher sugar content. Yet, to fully understand the sweetness of a German wine, you also have to take in consideration the desired style of the producer, if chaptalisation occurred or not, the vineyard it comes from and the allowed alcohol content range per category; knowing that the lower the alcohol content will be, the higher the sweetness in the final wine will be. Confusing isn’t it?    

Therefore, I rather intentionally leave aside the dryer style (Trocken) and declassified wines (easily recognizable because of the little *** on the label following the category), but also the fact all these factor can also vary depending on the region of origin, to avoid even more confusion.    

For example, today’s wine is a Kabinett, meaning that it is supposed to be a fully ripened light white wine from the main harvest, typically off dry or semi-sweet with crisp acidity, and it is, but it could also have been “dry” if designated so (Trocken). 

However, this particular one isn’t dry, but it isn’t the sweetest of its category either. What you have to realize as well is that, by law, the minimum authorized alcohol content in a Kabinett Riesling from the Mosel is 7% (sweet) but it also can go up to 11% (much dryer); today’s wine being 9% places it in the middle.       



2009 Losen Bockstanz Riesling Kabinett Wittlich Mosel Germany 
Suggested retail price $13-$16
Imported by Vision Brands LLC in NYC 

It presents a light, clean yellow, greenish color with bright reflects. The nose offers fresh, enticing and gentle zesty, mineral notes nicely complementing the white peach, lemony aromas. The palate is soft, juicy, and lightly sweet with similar flavors as the nose. The light, bright and really enjoyable finish possesses lovely balance and texture, and seems somewhat quite long. Highly recommended and a no brainer at this price. It will fit particularly well with light dishes, steamed sea and freshwater fish, boiled meat with light sauces, and a small poultry; and of course slightly spicy and raw Asian food. 

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

For more info about this wine go to the winery website at www.losen-bockstanz.de
(no English version available unfortunately for now)


Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship

Friday, April 1, 2011

LeDomduVin: 2009 Nicolas Gonin Persan - Mondeuse Vin de Pays des Balmes Dauphinoises Saint-Chef France


Nicolas Gonin  Persan - Mondeuse Vin de Pays des Balmes Dauphinoises Saint-Chef France



Are you kidding me? Is that a joke? We are the 1st of April, Fool's Day, and the weather is crappy; melting snow has been falling since this morning in New York, and it is not really motivating. It has been a really long, bad winter, and I'm not even talking about the recent news on TV worldwide.

On a more positive note, my wife and I continue to contemplate our newborn daughter, who just turned three months old. Like our older son, she is the sunshine of our life at that age. It doesn't mean our son isn't anymore, but a few years have passed, and he is not a little baby anymore.

However, because winter seems that it will last a bit longer before we turn the page and start drinking more whites and springy roses, my wife and I continue to drink our favorite earthy, wintery reds from small, artisanal, sometimes hard-to-find producers from the lesser-known region. Talking of those, the following one is a great example of rare gems.    

Michael, my rep from Metropolis, came to the store today to discuss some wines we had recently tasted. Before leaving, he left me a bottle of red wine with a peculiar name. "Bring it home and tell me what you think!" he said.

I look at the label with a doubtful look... "Vin de Pays des Balmes Dauphinoises"??? Where is this? I asked Michael. I never heard of it, simultaneously thinking: "Damn! They don't know what "Vin de Pays" to invent to be able to sell their wines, these French(s)!"

I had to investigate and share this discovery with you.

From what Micheal said, Nicolas Gonin is a character with a big heart and a passion for winemaking and developing indigenous, unusual grapes. You will immediately understand by looking at the label of this wine: "Mondeuse" and "Persian" are two local Indigenous red grapes from the region. But where is this region of "Balmes Dauphinoises"?

Mondeuse is a good indication because it mainly grows in the Savoie region in France. Therefore, we must be near or in Savoie. Good thinking. By searching on a map where the wine comes from, I realized that the village of "Saint-Chef" is located west of the Savoie region, about halfway (60 kilometers on both sides) between Lyon and Chambéry, in the "Dauphiné" (which evidently explains "Dauphinoises" on the label).

The "Dauphiné" or "Dauphiné Viennois" is a former province in southeastern France, whose area roughly corresponded to that of the present departments of Isère, Drôme, and Hautes-Alpes. The Dauphiné was an independent state from 1040 to 1349, under the rule of the Counts of Albon, before joining the Kingdom of France. As a French province, the Dauphiné maintained its autonomy until 1457, and Grenoble has been its capital since the 11th century.

Under the Ancien Régime, the province was bordered to the North by the River Rhône, which separated the Dauphiné from the provinces of Bresse ("Brêsse") and Bugey ("Bugê"). To the east, it bordered the Savoie and Piedmont, and to the south, the Comtat Venaissin and Provence. The western border was marked by the Rhône to the south of Lyon. The Dauphiné extended up to what is now the center of Lyon.         


To talk about the grapes:

Mondeuse (or Mondeuse Noire) is a red grape variety primarily grown in the Savoie region of France. It can also be found in Argentina, Australia, and California. The grape was hit hard during the phylloxera epidemic of the 19th century, which nearly wiped out three-quarters of the European vineyards between the 1860s and 1930s. In Savoie, the grape is used in blending with Gamay, Pinot Noir, and Poulsard, where it contributes its dark color and high acid level, allowing the wines to age well.

Persan is a fairly old, indigenous red grape variety that was nearly extinct and definitely forgotten until only a few years ago. Nicolas Gonin spends a lot of time nurturing his vines as a passionate, attentive, and perseverant grower and a talented yet humble winemaker. A few years ago, intrigued and unsure of his discovery, he had some grapes analyzed to confirm his feeling that he was in the presence of a supposedly gone variety. "Persan" was reborn, and Nicolas, ecstatic about his find, started to replant it.

In these difficult times of pollution and globalization in terms of agriculture, it is very inspiring to witness that there are still some producers who dare to come back to the old style of winemaking, practicing Organic, Biodynamic, Sustainable, and other Natural culture to protect the environment, revive the soil, enhance the natural habitat of the local fauna and flora, to produce healthier wines and other agricultural products. 

It is even more exciting and enticing when some offer a true renaissance to older, unheard-of grapes rather than easily fall into the trap of the now "too-international" Cabernet, Merlot, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon grapes.


Domaine Nicolas Gonin 


Born in 1975, Nicolas obtained his oenologist's national diploma at the Dijon faculty and has trained with master winemakers from Domaine Tempier in Bandol, Domaine Forey in Vosne-Romanée, Chateau Gilette in Sauternes, Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron in Nuits-St-Georges, and Ridge Vineyards in California …

His wish to return and produce quality wines in his native region goes back to the end of the 1990s, although several very interesting positions were proposed to him. The official installation took place in 2005 with the takeover of his uncle’s vineyard, Gaston Gonin, in Saint Chef, which is about 30 minutes from Côte-Rôtie.

However, the surface area of this vineyard was not sufficient to qualify him as a wine grower and obtain plantation rights. He needed to rent other plots of land, most of them in poor condition and further away, vineyards that nobody wanted to work …

The Domaine was slowly created with bits and pieces of vineyards from 20 owners. 

From 2003 to 2007, 2,4 hectares of local vines were planted: Altesse, Mondeuse, and Persan.

In 2005, a cellar of 250 m² was built with alveolar brick in terra cotta and a roof of local Dauphinois style. Today, the vineyard is completely restructured; the bad plots of land were eliminated, and the current surface of the domain is 5 hectares. Other projects of plantation are in progress.

He started producing his first vintage from young vines in 2005. The Domaine now encompasses 6 hectares, 2 of which are not in production but soon will be.   






2009 Nicolas Gonin  Persan - Mondeuse Vin de Pays des Balmes Dauphinoises Saint Chef France
Suggested price $19-$22
Imported by MC2 / distributed by Metropolis in NYC

Crafted with roughly 50% Persan and 50% Mondeuse, depending on the vintage—I think that actually, it is 60% Persan and 40% Mondeuse for this 2009 vintage—this wine was vinified 100% Organic. It was the second harvest for the Persan wine from vines planted between 2003 and 2005.

The vineyard was already worked under the Biodynamic method, but it has been fully Biodynamic certified since 2010. The vineyard is totally herbed. In 2010, Nicolas Gonin will make a 100% Persan, a grape variety highly subject to mildiou and high acidity levels, which convinced ancient producers to abandon it until its renaissance a few years ago. 

The grapes underwent 12 days of Maceration with pigeage every other day to gently maximize extraction and highlight the grapes' character. I don’t think it has seen any oak, or if it did, it was surely old, neutral oak for a short time. In any case, it doesn’t show on the palate. 500 cases were made, and only a few reached the US market.

2009 Nicolas Gonin Persan - Mondeuse Vin de Pays des Balmes Dauphinoises presents a dark ruby color. The nose is somewhat restrained, but distinct yet discreet aromas of dark berry, earth, and soil are immediately recognizable. The attack is quite juicy and fresh on the palate, with rapidly developing flavors of really dark, ripe berries mingled with earthy components. This natural, terroir-oriented wine possesses great balance and enhances the acidity nicely, carrying the fruit toward the dark, earthy, structured, and somewhat rustic, lingering finish. Mondeuse usually produces light, crisp, fresh reds, yet it seems that Persan confers a lot of earthiness, texture, and structure with a good grip of integrated tannins. Definitely a food-friendly wine, revealing both the Terroir from which it comes and the tendency of the producer to produce true, authentic, and varietally expressive wines.
Enjoy!

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

LeDomduVin aka Dominique Noël 

Info partly taken and edited from the Importer website at http://www.winemc2.com/ and partly taken and edited from www.wikipedia.org/ for some of the info on the Dauphiné and Mondeuse. You can also go to the winery website, which is in French at www.vins-nicolas-gonin.com/ (I will, by the way, try to translate a bit from it soon to complete this post with more accurate info.)


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Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also, follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also, support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components, and craftsmanship.