2009 Domaine du Bagnol Cassis White Provence France

Ever heard about or tasted a white or a rosé wine from Cassis? No? Well, it is not surprising; there are only a few on the US market. These characteristic and distinctive wines, for the vast majority of them, are consumed locally, never leaving the region, which is a joy for the locals and especially the many tourists, yet it is a lost for the rest of us. Fortunately, one of my favorite wine importers, Rosenthal, has one of the best examples this small Provence wine region has to offer.

Madrose /Rosenthal used to carry this jewel of an estate of the French Riviera, called “Domaine du Bagnol”, yet they lost it at some point; but then again the brand came back to the portfolio that introduced it in the past to avid New Yorkers.

As the Madrose website precises it: “It is a rare but wonderful feeling when one can actually "go home again" and rediscover something wonderful that one thought was lost. The transition of this estate from the Lefevre family hands to those of Jean-Louis Genovesi has resulted in a renaissance that we are particularly pleased to bring back to the USA. Of particular note is the bold white wine from Cassis that is produced here: a blend of Marsanne (50%), Clairette (35%) and Ugni (15%). We missed having this wine in our portfolio and are genuinely happy to play in this field once again. The Rose arrived and immediately sold out; now is the time to belly up and enjoy the Blanc.”- Neal Rosenthal (I presume).

And in fact this post will be dedicated to the white Cassis produced by Domaine du Bagnol, which I just bought for a customer and tasted this afternoon and was really impressed. 

Domaine du Bagnol Cassis Provence

Domaine du Bagnol is located in Cassis, a quaint little port facing the Mediterranean sea, situated about 26 kilometers east of Marseille in the French Departement of the “Bouches du Rhône” in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region, southern France.

A popular tourist destination to escape crowded Marseille, Cassis is one of the most picturesque seaside towns in France, sitting in a naturally curved Amphitheatre formed by the coastline below the Cap Canaille, which encompasses one of the highest maritime cliffs in Europe culminating at 399 meters above sea level.

As a result, Cassis has always been famous for its cliffs (or “falaises” in French) and its sheltered, roughly chiseled, yet beautiful creeks called “Calanque”, which are prized by the Jet Set for their quite and often inaccessible beach of pristine turquoise waters where costly yachts are often anchored, all along the coastline between Cassis and Marseille.

Provence wines in general, are mainly rosé, bit of whites and tiny production of red, except in Bandol. Cassis produces mainly whites, bit of rosés and rare reds. The wines are usually crafted and often combined with 2 or 3 grape varieties together, like Marsanne, Clairette, Bourboulenc (locally known as Doucillon Blanc), pascal, Sauvignon Blanc and Ugni Blanc for the whites, and Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Grenache for the Rosés and Reds. Recognized in May 1936, Cassis was one of the first appellations of the AOC system due to the high quality of its wines.

Cassis should not to be confused with “Crème de Cassis”, a liquor specialty of the Burgundy region, which takes its name from Blackcurrant (called “Cassis” in French), hence a dark sweet, syrupy liquor made from the Cassis fruit not from the commune.

Wine production in Cassis has been recorded as far back as 1200 AD, yet more closely, Domaine du Bagnol has roots in history going back to 1867, when it belonged then to the Marquis de Fesque. It has since always played an active part in the reputation and notoriety of the local wines. Recently the Domaine passed from the hand of the Lefevre family to those of Sebastien and Jean Louis Genovesi, who clearly reestablished the fame of this estate, producing extremely aromatic, fresh, voluptuous wines from their 6 hectares of vines sharing this arid, rocky ground bordering the sea with countless garrigues bushes and calcareous limestone rolling hills and cliffs.   

(Better Picture to come soon, check their Facebook site at Domaine de Bagnol or watch a quick 360 tour of the Domaine at http://www.visit-cassis-360.com/bagnol_cassis.html)


2009 Domaine du Bagnol Cassis White Provence France
Suggested retail price $22-$25
Imported / distributed by Madrose / Rosenthal in NYC


A blend of roughly 50% Marsanne, 35% Clairette and 15% Ugni Blanc, the 2009 Domaine du Bagnol Cassis white offers notes of the sea breeze that contributed to the perfect ripeness of the grapes, and in the mean time, gives expression to the intense minerality that comes from the white stone cliffs that provide background to these vineyards. The fresh mid-palate possesses a gracious, ample and silky, coating texture enhanced by beautiful, focused acidity and generous yellow fruit flavors, unripe white peach, touch of apple and zesty, lemon peel notes. The finish is racy, polished, intense and long, almost oily and really satisfying and enticing with loads of minerality and citrus hints. What a wine!  The perfect accompaniment to freshly caught fish by the fishermen of Cassis. Definitely one of my favorite wines of the summer yet. Highly recommended.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken from the importer website at www.madrose.com (unfortunately, I was unable to find a website for this winery).

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

2008 Chateau de Pourcieux Cotes de Provence Rose Provence France

2008 Chateau de Pourcieux Cotes de Provence Rose Provence France
Suggested retail price $12-$14
Distributed by Baron Francois in NYC

Made from 50% (to 60%) Syrah, 30 % Grenache and 10% (to 20%) Cinsault, this wine has a light, clear, salmon rose color. The nose is fresh, mineral and clean without being extravagant or rich, more the opposite, exposing aromas of raspberry and strawberry. The palate is super refreshing, light and mineral with notes of flowers, light touch of red cherry and rose petal. Perfect summer rose wine for any occasions. Pair it with grilled white meat, cold cut, charcuterie and red fruit salad.

For more info about this winery, go to www.chateau-de-pourcieux.com

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Step into the Green! Drink more Bio and Organic wines (and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment!

2006 Mas de Gourgonnier Les Baux de Provence Provence France

2006 Mas de Gourgonnier Les Baux de Provence Provence France
(Mme Nicolas Cartier & fils)

If you happen to travel down to the south of France, in Provence, make a little "detour" by "Les Baux de provence". You will surely appreciate this region natural, dry, arid, wild beauty; its wines and also its authentic, rural, rich, flavorful food (especially in the restaurant which bears the same name as this lovely region and happens to be one the best restaurant in France).

In the heart of "Les Alpilles" (sort of foothills chain south-west of the Alpes), a few kilometers far from the village of "Les Baux", one can find the gate to Mas de Gourgonnier. Benefiting from this unique location and their long family tradition, Nicolas Cartier and sons, Luc and Frederique, produce great wines with strong personalities: Red and Rosé wines from AOC "Les Baux de Provence" and also white wines. For the amateurs of regional Provence flavors, they also produce an extraordinary smooth and balanced olive oil.

(FYI: Created in 1995, the AOC "Les Baux de Provence" is only for Red and Rosé wines. The whites are sold under the AOC Côteaux d'Aix en Provence. The olive oil from Les Baux is also an AOC).

Built in the middle of the XVIII century, the "Mas" (typical country house of Provence) was a farm of the "Abbaye de Pierredon" which used to belong to their family. They used to produce all the necessary resources for the monks of the Abbaye.

In this wild, rocky landscape, the sheep were living under the olive trees and the fruit trees until 1950. It is at this period that the first vines were planted. Rapidly a cellar was built. Luc Cartier and his father came to live here and established Mas de Gourgonnier in the 70s, and then Frederic joined them in 1990. The Domaine is now mainly run by Luc and Lucienne Cartier, and since a few years, their daughter, Eve, works with them. Together, they work as a united family aiming at one goal: produce the best Provence terroir expression in a bottle.

They possess about 45 hectares of vines and 20 hectares of olive trees, planted on limestone-clay soils. This type of soils is really characteristic of the south slope of the "Alpilles". The Cartier family prefers natural methods and minimal intervention in the vineyards and in the cellar. They have used "Organic" and sustainable farming for over the past 40 years, long before these words became common in our daily wine vocabulary, and they are certified Biologique Culture (Organic in English). Their white and red wines are usually a blend of different grape varieties: Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Carignan, Mourvèdre and Cabernet-Sauvignon for the reds, and Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache Blanc and Rolle (also known as Vermentino in Italy) for the whites.

Mas de Gourgonnier Tradition combines 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Carignan, 20% Grenache, and 9% Syrah. After harvest done partly by hand and partly by machine, the wine was fermented than aged in stainless steel tanks to keep the maximum freshness, juiciness and fruit flavors. (FYI: at Mas de Gourgonnier, only the "Reserve" wines are aged in oak: big "Foudres" of 50-70hl for the reds, and in oak barrels for the whites).

2006 Mas de Gourgonnier Les Baux de Provence Provence France (Mme Nicolas Cartier & fils)
Suggested retail price $13-$15
Imported & Distributed by Michael Skurnik Wines in NYC

The 2006 Mas de Gourgonnier Tradition boasts aromas of wild berries and blackberries with floral and Garrigue notes. The palate is juicy, somewhat rustic, with present yet integrated tannins adding dimension and structure to this well crafted organic Provençal red wine. The black berry flavors intermingle with hints of Cassis and spice in the mid-palate, while the finish is all about slightly dry tannins and more Garrigue. It will pair well with a roasted rack of Lamb, grilled T-bone steak and various cheeses.

FYI: "Garrigue", like the word "Terroir", is a French word (or term) that encompasses many components as a whole.

"Terroir" usually refers to the combination of climate, micro-climate, type of soils, location, exposition, geography and topography, and the uniqueness of the surroundings influencing particular vineyards and the produced wines in a determined area.

"Garrigue" is a word (or a term) mainly used in Provence and the Languedoc. However, some of us use it, during tasting in our tasting notes, as a reference for aromas and flavors found in various wine regions in the south of France bordering the Mediterranean Sea . In Provence, Garrigue usually refers to the landscape, climate and type of soils; but more importantly, it combines the earthy aromas and flavors of different type of herbs (Thyme, Rosemary, etc..), bush trees, olive trees, fruit trees and pine trees, with the very distinctive scents of flowers (Lavender, etc..), bay leaf and dark fruits (Cassis, Blackberry, etc..), together mixed with the influence of the Mistral wind and the Mediterranean sea.

Just close your eyes and imagine yourself walking in a vineyard in Provence during the hot month of July... are you there yet?

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Step into the green! Drink more Bio and Organic wines (and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment!

2007 Comptoirs de Magdala “Escapade” Côtes de Provence France

2007 Comptoirs de Magdala “Escapade” Côtes de Provence France
Suggested retail price $15-$19

When Donald, one of the rep. of Jenny and Francois Selections and also a close friend of mine, came with this bottle of wine, I thought at first that he was bringing again one of this hard to sell, esoteric, earthy, organic wine from an obscure region. For once and on the contrary, he brought me this excellent bottle of Côtes de Provence that I immediately liked and enjoyed.

Let me put you in the context of the situation. Jenny and Francois Selections is a notorious tiny distributor of small, often obscure artisan organic and biodynamic wines that are usually not your everyday friendly wine and definitely not crowd pleasers. But I was ready to try his wines and was doing it probably more for our friendship sake than by my own will.

I tasted about 7-8 wines and I really enjoyed 3 of them: an earthy Pic St-Loup red (Languedoc), a Gaillac (Southwest of France) and this delightful Côtes de Provence.

Made by Antoine Pouponneau who also makes wine at “Tour du Bon” in Bandol, this is a gorgeous, medium to full-bodied wine, perfect for a late spring-summer afternoon with finger foods. A blend of Carignan, Mourvedre and Grenache, this Cotes de Provence is characterized by bright red fruit and balanced acidity.

I do not much info on the wine itself but I can say that it is a great expression of the terroir from where it comes from: Provence. Located down the south-east of France, south of the Rhone Valley, Provence is well known for its juicy and refreshing rosés and its world famous aperitif anisé: Pernod-Ricard. The sky is blue, the wind is strong and constantly blowing, the Mediterranean Sea is warm and inviting, the soil is harsh and dry, the lavender bushes cover most of the hills rolling down to the sea when they are not covered by vines, and it is a perfect place to make strong, flavorful wines.

Tasting notes: The nose offers notes of purple flowers, mixed of wild red and dark berries, earthy hints of garrigues and trace of lavender and spice. The palate boasts rich and ripe yet fresh blueberry and blackberry flavors intermingled with floral touch and more pronounce earthy garrigues notes in the finish. The wine is strong and fruity with high alcohol but very well integrated. Well rounded, it will please BBQ grilled meat eaters.

LeDom

2003 Dupere Barrera "La Procure" Cotes de Provence

2003 Dupéré Barrera “La procure” Cotes de Provence France
Suggested retail price $21-$26

After creating their Negociant company in 2000 (called “Les Vins Dupéré Barrera”), Emmanuelle Dupéré and Laurent Barrera wished to expand their project and life into the cultivation of their own vines.

In 2002, they became owners of a small parcel of vines and some land, called “Domaine Clos de la Procure”, located in AOC Côtes de Provence, where they now produce a very expressive wine that reflects all the characteristics of its magnificent terroir.

The domain encompasses 5.5 hectares of old vines under the AOC Côtes de Provence, 1.5 hectares of olive trees, some forest and 1.4 hectares of replanted syrah. The Domaine is located in the Var region, next to the village of Carnoules.

The parcels of vines are situated in small terraces separated by small rock walls, paths, or rows of olive trees. The soil is a mix of limestone and clay with detritic elements. The exceptional presence of a subterranean water layer about 12 meters deep guarantees excellent nourishment of the vineyard and limits the negative effects of drought, which was particularly important in 2003, 2004.

They produce 3 types of wine. A red blended with Grenache, Mourvèdre plus some very old vines Carignan. A rose which is not produce every year, issued from Cinsault with a touch of Ugni Blanc. A white produced with 100% Ugni Blanc.

The vinification and bottling process are carried out according to the NOWAT process first experienced in 2000 and fully used by Dupéré Barrera since vintage 2001. Go to the following link to learn more about the NoWat method on their website: http://www.duperebarrera.com/procure/english/nowat.html

As you may have understood already, we are talking about a small artisanal winery that produce only very limited amount of wines and bottles. From the vineyard to the cellar, they only used the biodynamic method and everything is also organic: no pesticide, no herbicide, no chemicals, natural compost only, no addition of yeast or sulfites, manual harvest, manual destemming, manual press of the grapes, no pumping, no filtration, no fining, gravity vinification system, hand bottling, …etc. They do everything themselves with rudimentary tools and produce fantastic wines.

Tasting note and food pairing: La Procure 2003 is a blend of Grenache and Mourvèdre predominantly with a touch of Cinsault and Carignan. It is a big earthy wine that offers plenty of red and dark ripe fruit flavors complemented with garrigues notes and hints of oak. The opulent palate is balanced and forward with great texture. The 2003 vintage experienced one the hottest summer of this decade, but they still managed to produce an excellent wine. A grilled meat & BBQ’s companion. Enjoy!

Infos partly taken from their website: http://www.duperebarrera.com

LeDom du Vin