Showing posts with label #leflaive. Show all posts
Showing posts with label #leflaive. Show all posts

Tuesday, March 18, 2025

LeDomduVin: Domaine Leflaive and Domaines Leflaive Macon-Verzé Burgundy 2021





Domaine Leflaive & 

Domaines Leflaive Macon-Verzé Burgundy 2021








Since the inception of the French departmental system in 1790, Burgundy has been referred to as the geographic area comprising the four departments of Yonne, Côte-d'Or, Nièvre, and Saône-et-Loire (see map above created with https://www.mapchart.net/ and edited by and for ©Ledomduvin 2025).

However, the wine region called Burgundy is slightly different. Wines are produced in the Yonne department for Chablis (Auxerrois) and along a roughly 200 km corridor (following the highway A6) crossing three departments (from North to South): Côte-d'Or, Saône-et-Loire, and Rhône.





Yet, most Burgundy maps mainly show the regions of Côte-d'Or and Saône-et-Loire, reducing the Burgundy stretch to only about 125 km, starting south of Dijon and ending south of Macon (often excluding Beaujolais and Chablis).    

Although the Chablis and Beaujolais regions are also part of Burgundy, respectively located in the Yonne and Rhône departments, they are often left off most Burgundy maps, mostly appearing in the corner or on a separate map entirely (see above - Map of Burgundy - Courtesy of www.bourgogne-wines.com).   

 





Within each of these departments, the wine areas are divided into several regions, subdivided into several appellation levels (based on quality and rank), and arranged in a pyramid, starting with the most generic, AOC regional, at the bottom and ascending to AOC communes/villages or appellations, AOC 1er Cru and AOC Grand Cru (see the pyramid above).






I created the "BURGUNDY AOC Hierarchy Table with Leading APPELLATIONS" above because I could not find a table that included the main Burgundy AOC. Numbers may differ depending on the sources. (*)   


However, enough is said about Burgundy's many AOCs; let's focus on the one of interest for today's post: Puligny-Montrachet. 





Map of Puligny-Montrachet - Courtesy of www.bourgogne-wines.com




Located in the Cote d'Or department, Puligny-Montrachet is a small village at the heart of the Côte de Beaune, between Meursault to the north and Chassagne-Montrachet to the south. Domaine Leflaive is the jewel of the appellation, renowned for producing some of the finest whites of Burgundy.

The village of Puligny-Montrachet produces wines under 3 levels of AOC:

- Village (both white and red, even if the red only accounts for less than 1% of the total production),
- Premier Cru (white only)
- Grand Cru (white only)

NB: Other reds from defined areas within the boundaries of Puligny-Montrachet are usually sold under the appellation "Côte de Beaune Villages."


Puligny-Montrachet possesses 17 climats classified as "Premier Cru" and shares 2 "Grand Cru" with Chassagne-Montrachet.

17 Premier Cru

Champ Canet, Champ Gain, Clavaillon, Clos de la Garenne, Clos de la Mouchère, Hameau de Blagny, La Garenne, La Truffière, Le Cailleret, Les Chalumaux, Les Combettes, Les Demoiselles, Les Folatières, Les Perrières, Les Pucelles, Les Referts and Sous le Puits

4 Grands Crus

Montrachet and Bâtard-Montrachet (shared with Chassagne-Montrachet)
Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet and Chevalier-Montrachet (situated entirely within Puligny-Montrachet)

Some may also think of a fifth one, Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet, but it is located entirely within Chassagne-Montrachet.


Domaine Leflaive


The Leflaive family's roots date back to 1717 when Claude Leflaive settled in Puligny-Montrachet. The following generations worked as Tonneliers (Cooper) and owned several hectares of vines whose grapes were sold. Joseph Leflaive (1870-1953) created the Domaine, and his son Vincent Leflaive further developed it.

Vincent's daughter, Anne-Claude Leflaive, a winemaker and pioneer in biodynamic viticulture, succeeded her father in 1990 and began overseeing Domaine Leflaive's day-to-day operations. Under her leadership, the Domaine underwent a renaissance, drastically improving the quality of the wines.

After Anne-Claude Leflaive's untimely death in April 2015, the estate is now managed by Brice de la Morandiere, Anne-Claude's nephew and Joseph's great-grandson. Winemaking is under the control of Eric Remy.

The Domaine is a leading producer of biodynamic practices and the flagship of the appellation. It covers approximately 24 hectares in Puligny-Montrachet and features Grands Crus and Premiers Crus, all dedicated to a single varietal: Chardonnay.

Domaine Leflaive produces wines at all AOC levels: 

AOC Grand Cru
  • Montrachet, 0.0821 hectares (0.203 acres)
  • Chevalier-Montrachet, 1.99 hectares (4.9 acres)
  • Bâtard-Montrachet, 1.91 hectares (4.7 acres)
  • Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, 1.15 hectares (2.8 acres)

AOC Premier Cru
  • Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles, Folatières, Les Combettes, Le Clavoillon
  • Meursault sous le Dos d'Âne

AOC Village wine
  • Puligny-Montrachet, 7 climats totalling 4.64 hectares (11.5 acres)

AOC Regional wine
  • Bourgogne blanc from 2 parcels totalling 3.24 hectares (8.0 acres)


Domaine Leflaive ramifications

To clarify, Domaine Leflaive and Olivier Leflaive's négociant business are completely separate entities. 

As for "Domaines Leflaive" (with an "s" at the end of Domaine), it represents an extension of Domaine Leflaive in the Mâconnais region to explore the family's extensive vineyard holdings (Mâcon-Verzé, Pouilly-Fuissé, etc...). These holdings are either owned or leased long-term through the family's close relationships with vineyard owners in the area. 

The vineyards are certified organic and biodynamic, and the family directly handles all work in the vineyards, the harvest, and the vinification of the wines in the Domaine's cellar in Puligny-Montrachet. 

This Mâcon-Verzé is one of these wines and undeniably one of the best values of their portfolio.  






Domaines Leflaive Macon-Verzé Burgundy 2021


Mineral, fresh, zesty, focused, subtle, elegant, gentle, with lemon and stonefruit aromas mingling with butter, vanilla, and toasted nuances, and that utterly satisfying "glycerine" sensation coating the palate, so characteristic of Domaine Leflaive wines, especially within their Puligny-Montrachet(s), leading to the long, fresh and mineral finish. What a delicious little wine with a lively energy! Love it!

I could drink a lot of this wine! 😋😋😋😋

Cheers! Santé!


Dom


@ledomduvin #ledomduvin @domaineleflaive #domaineleflaive #leflaive #maconverze #macon #burgundy #wine #vin #vino #wein #whitewine #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife #tastingnotes #ilovemyjob #wineyearly #lovewine



(*) Numbers may differ depending on the sources. The table above only includes the main regions and villages, as it would be impossible to fit every single one of the 785 AOCs (appellations) of Burgundy into a single table. For example, there are 44 AOC villages and a staggering 662 climats classified as Premiers Crus in Burgundy. Some Regional Appellations and regional denominations have also been omitted due to a lack of space (e.g., Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise, Bourgogne Côte du Couchois, Bourgogne white and red, Bourgogne Aligoté, Bourgogne Passe-tout-grains, and Côteaux Bourguignons, Crémant de Bourgogne, etc.). Numbers courtesy of https://www.bourgogne-wines.com





Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2025, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).


Tuesday, March 10, 2009

LeDomduVin: Burgundy Legends - Anne-Claude Leflaive and Pierre Morey


Anne-Claude-Leflaive (courtesy of wine-searcher.com) and Pierre Morey and his daughter Anne Morey (courtesy of @Jon Wyand)


Burgundy Legends - 

Anne-Claude Leflaive and Pierre Morey




Last Thursday, March 5, I attended an unusual tasting.

Anne-Claude Leflaive from the prestigious Domaine Leflaive and Pierre Morey, one of Meursault's most famous producers, were both in town to present their 2006 vintage whites.

Although I tasted, poured, and sold their wines for many years in France, England, and for the past seven years here in New York, I never really had the chance to meet these legends in person.

The wine tasting took place at "Le Bernardin", undoubtedly one of New York's top 5 restaurants. With a world-renowned Chef/Owner like Eric Ripert, who spends 50% of his time on TV and traveling, this fantastic restaurant could have lost a bit of its charm, essence, and quality. Fortunately (for us customers and food lovers), often-under-the-spotlights Chef Eric Ripert is a discreet and humble person, who enjoys the ovens and warm lamps of his kitchen where he can express all of his talents. That's right, unlike some other TV Chefs, it is not unusual to spot Chef Eric Ripert in the kitchen of his own restaurant. Unfortunately for me, he wasn't here that day.

However, although it would have been great to see Chef Ripert, my primary goal was to taste the wines and exchange a few words with the masterminds who craft them: Anne-Claude Leflaive and Pierre Morey.   

Not too crowded, it was an enjoyable tasting in one of the private salons of "Le Bernardin", served with some "Amuse-bouches" and cheeses to complete the experience. 

What a treat! It is not every day that Anne-Claude Leflaive and Pierre Morey pour their own wines in New York. Apparently, it was a big comeback for Anne-Claude Leflaive, who last visited New York four or five years ago.


FYI: For the novices and those who couldn't come to the tasting that day, all the wines presented and tasted were white (except 2 reds), made from 100% Chardonnay, aged in new "Piece" Burgundy barrels (228 Liters) for some and big used Burgundy Foudres (big oak barrels) for others. Visit their respective websites at https://www.leflaive.fr/fr_FR/ and https://www.morey-meursault.fr/en/ for more information.

FYI (again): These wines range from quite expensive to very expensive. However, I didn't let the price influence my opinion or my palate. As always, I let my taste buds decide on the quality of these wines, and despite the prestige of these two houses, I couldn't help but make a few comments.

************

Little parenthese:
Should anyone be influenced (during tasting) by price, name or fame??
NO!?! Absolutely Not!


Remember that, at the end of the day, even if some wines can command a high price (for various reasons), in most cases, price, name, and fame don't make the wine. And nobody should buy a wine solely based on its name, fame, or price (professional wine buyers and customers included). 

Your taste buds should always determine the acceptable cost of the wine you taste, no matter the name, fame, or price. And, despite some rare exceptions, if you estimate that the taste is not good enough and the price is too high for the quality of the wine, do not buy it.

Specially highly marketed wines which often correspond to a more global, generic, crowd-pleasing type of taste and usually lack personality, character, complexity, and depth.

Additionally, it is not always the case that a wine's name, fame, and/or price correspond to its quality. 

In fact, similar to inexpensive wines, even expensive, well-known, and highly praised wines—often heavily marketed—can vary greatly in quality due to average poor or bad vintages and other specific factors like lack of ripeness, excessive acidity, overly dry, green, bitter tannins, drought or excessive rain during the growing season, bad corks, poor storage conditions, dirty cellars, unusual winemaker styles, poor vineyard management and winemaking decisions, wrong blending, over-manipulation, and so on.

Based on experience, even the most famous and reputable estates and producers can make average or below-average wines during less favorable years and vintages. Most Sommeliers and wine Buyers I know have experienced it many times. 

Suppose you taste a usually highly praised wine in a lesser vintage and don't like it because it shows some flaws compared to better vintages you've previously tasted. In that case, it’s not because its name is "Petrus" or "DRC" that you need to convince yourself the wine is good or that you're wrong.

However, people are often too easily swayed by name, fame, and price. I frequently have this discussion with some of my peers and other people from the wine industry, and they usually disagree with me. 

Telling me:"... but that's .... (fill the blank with a famous wine name), so it cannot be bad! You don't understand." And me to reply: "Well, the name, fame, and price do not make the wine, and if I don't like it and don't find it good enough to sell it to my customer, I won't buy it!"       

Moreover, what is the point of buying a wine you don't like, since you know you'll have difficulty selling it because you're not even convinced of its quality? Consequently, you won't put in much effort to sell it, and the stock will sit unsold for a long time. That wastes time and money, and it takes up space in your warehouse or cellar that could be used for far better wines.   

If you have to spend a long time explaining why a wine is good when it isn't, what's the point? Personally, I buy and serve wine to achieve the WOW factor and immediate customer satisfaction. I want to see a contented smile on my customers' faces right from the first sip.  

Selling wine is about storytelling and conveying the message the producers/winemakers put in the bottle. Telling about the wine, how it was produced, about its terroir, its story, its history, and about the men and women who craft it from the vineyards to the cellar until it is bottled, and more importantly, why it is so good, why it will pair well with your dishes, etc....  

So, as I mentioned before, my taste bud sensations and reactions are the only influence on my opinion, the way I taste, write my notes, and buy wines (and it should be the same for you, every time you taste, whatever the name, fame, or cost of the wine is).

************


However, even if it is an interesting point and subject, I once again deviated from the original topic. Let's go back to the tasting of the wines of Domaine Leflaive and Pierre Morey.   




The Tasting


Here are the wines that I tasted, starting with Domaine Leflaive then Pierre Morey, both imported by Wilson Daniels Ltd., and distributed by Martin Scott Wines in NYC. My notes are short and only reflect the main characteristics of these wines. Still very young, they will surely develop and integrate with time (and offer even more in a few years).



Domaine Leflaive

A few words about Anne-Claude Leflaive: After spending some time abroad, Anne-Claude Leflaive came back at the Domaine in 1990, bringing her interest, knowledge and skills to improve her family's property. She then took full control of the Domaine after her father's death in 1993, was named Manager in 1994, and gradually helped to constantly improved the quality of the wines since, assisted by her co-manager cousin Olivier Leflaive (see also Domaine Olivier Leflaive) and winemaker Pierre Morey until the 2006 vintage (see Domaine Pierre Morey).

2006 Domaine Leflaive Macon-Verze
Suggested retail price $35-$40

Bright and mineral on the nose, the attack is somewhat fat and rounded, followed by a great acidity in the mid-palate. Nice overall, a bit pricey in my opinion. I would have loved more for the price.


2006 Domaine Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc
Suggested retail price $58-$64

Here again, the wine has a fat, rounded attack (a usual characteristic for Domaine Leflaive, that do full malolactic fermentation, ageing on the lees and use new oak barrels adding fatness, roundness and vanilla-toasted-bready flavors, for all of its wines). The palate is harmonious and fairly complex, quite long for a simple Bourgogne white (not so sure if "simple" is the right word to use to describe Domaine Leflaive's wines which are anything but simple....). Excellent balance. A lovely wine overall, and surely better than the previous Macon-Verze. But here again, price isn't low...


2006 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Monrachet
Suggested retail price $110-$120

Vanilla, oak, toasted notes mixed with peach, citrus flavors constitute the main flavors of this super fat, viscous, concentrated wine. The luscious finish lingers for a while. Even if very good, this wine seemed really rich but somehow less elegant than I remembered compared with other vintages. Could it be the ripeness due to September 2006's sunshine just before harvest?


2006 Domaine Leflaive Meursault 1er Cru "Sous le Dos D'Ane"
Suggested retail price $165-$174

Excellent structure, lovely fatness and richness, really complex and long. Here again the wine is rounded, waxy, fat and woody. It is balanced and focus with depth and texture. Very interesting wine...


2006 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Monrachet 1er Cru "Clavoillon"
Suggested retail price $158-$164

Superb, refined, mineral, fat yet fresh, fruity and floral, with really good acidity that carries the fruit and the minerality through the long-lasting finish. An excellent wine to discover the greatness of Domaine Leflaive's Puligny(s), without paying the price of "Les Pucelles".


2006 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Pucelles"
Suggested retail price $275-$290

For me (and many other wine buyers, I think), Puligny-Monrachet "Les Pucelles" is the benchmark of Domaine Leflaive and one of the pillars on which the village of Puligny proudly stands. It is an institution. Over my 17+ years of wine tasting and wine buying, "Les Pucelles" has always been my favorite Puligny.

I still remember when, as a young Sommelier in a highly secluded private club for businessmen, stars and millionaires in London (1997 at Monte's Club on Sloane street), I opened my first bottle of "Les Pucelles" 1992....WOW...what a perfect wine! I sold many of them and enjoyed the first sip of them all (slow decantation in front of the customers always requires the Sommelier to taste the wine to make sure that the wine is in perfect condition...).

The 2006 "Les Pucelles" is no exception to the rule, it was the highlight of the table. Superb, delightful, with beautiful balance and acidity. Rich and concentrated, it appeared less fat and fresher than any of the other wines on the table. Floral, mineral, citrus, white fruits, earthy, crisp and vivid, focus and long with a never-ending refreshing, inspirational finish. I loved it.

PS: "Les Combettes" and "Les Referts" are my other two favorites 1er Cru of Puligny-Monrachet.



2006 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenue-Bâtard-Monrachet Grand Cru
Suggested retail price $430-$460

Unbelievably complex, fresh, structured, balanced palate with an extremely long, integrated and inviting finish. Great but.... the price isn't as inviting. Another standard for Domaine Leflaive.
To resume, Domaine Leflaive remains one of the best Domaines for white Burgundy, topping the league of Domaine de la Romanée Conti, Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Etienne Sauzet, Domaine Ramonet, Domaine Faiveley, Domaine Pierre Morey, Domaine Michel Niellon, Domaine Ramonet, Hubert De Montille, Henry Boillot, Raveneau, Dauvissat, Bonneau du Martray, and a few more.




Domaine Pierre Morey


Before describing the wines that I tasted from Domaine Pierre Morey, I would like to precise that the situation was a bit odd, because Pierre Morey was also the winemaker at Domaine Leflaive and that the 2006 vintage was his last vintage. So, somehow, although, he was pouring the wines from his Domaine behind his table, he could have also been pouring at Domaine Leflaive's table because he also crafted these wines.

Pierre Morey founded his own Domaine in 1971. He possesses about nine hectares of vines scattered in various villages like Meursault, Monthélie, Volnay, Pommard and Puligny-Montrachet, including a few vines in a Grand Cru vineyard (Bâtard-Montrachet) and few more rows in few 1er Cru(s) (Meursault Perrières; Pommard Grand Épenots; and Volnay Santenots). He produces his wines with the same passion and enthusiasm (or even more) as when he used to be at Domaine leflaive. He is renown for his love for the acidity, balance, structure and focus in his wines. Somewhat discreet and humble yet generous and open, his wines are his reflection and his legacy.


2006 Domaine Pierre Morey Bourgogne Aligoté
Suggested retail price $19-$23

Nice, crisp, vivid, with high acidity. This wine is bright, lively and slightly green, a tough tight on the finish. Overall nice and uncomplicated, a bit light on its feet.


2006 Domaine Pierre Morey Bourgogne Chardonnay
Suggested retail price $34-$38

Here again, quite nice with a fatter, rounder mouthfeel. In my opinion, somewhat short in the finish. I would have loved to see a bit more going on, especially for the price.


2006 Pierre Morey Meursault (Village)
Suggested retail price $100-$110

Meursault is really Pierre Morey's playground. His Meursault(s) are the perfect reflects of the quality of the terroir and the richness of this appellation. Pierre Morey for Meursault mirrors what Domaine Leflaive is for Puligny-Monrachet, a high quality standard benchmark for the appellation. Boasting floral, mineral, fresh white fruit flavors, his 2006 Meursault (village) is excellent, with great texture and vivid acidity. J'adore!


2006 Pierre Morey Meursault "Les Tessons"
Suggested retail price $110-$120

Here again, a classic, rich yet refreshing Meursault. Lot of minerality, character with a bright mid-palate expanding nicely toward the extremely long and refined finish. Loved it.

PS: unfortunately for us that day, it was the last Meursault on his table; however, Pierre Morey also produces 3 other Meursault(s) including two of my all time favorites that I would have loved to taste: Meursault "Les Terres Blanches" and his precious Meursault "Perrières".


2006 Pierre Morey Bâtard-Monrachet Grand Cru
Suggested retail price $340-$370

Fat, oaky nose with notes of white blossom, peach and minerals. The oaky, vanilla, toasted flavors in the palate aren't as integrated as I would like them to be and seem to overwhelm the other components of this wine. Would the oak flavors settle down and fade or integrated with time? Only time will tell. For now, I just wish the wine could have been as focus, bright and balanced as the two previous Meursault(s). Especially for the price.


2006 Pierre Morey Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Suggested retail price $25-$29

Soft, easy, a bit light yet well made, with bright cherry fruit and an interesting texture from attack to mid-palate. The finish, in my opinion, is a bit green (slightly unripe may be which is surprising because the fruit seems to be ripe... could it be the tannins? a touch bitter may be?). Not bad overall, quite juicy, earthy and high in acidity, may a bit of food will mask the finish.


2006 Pierre Morey Monthélie Rouge
Suggested retail price $44-$49

Bright, vivid, really balanced, earthy, fresh with bright red berry fruit flavors. I liked it a lot. It seemed in a much better shape than the previous Bourgogne red, with a better, riper finish.



To conclude this tasting, I just had a taste of the some of the mouth-wateing "Amuse-Bouches" concocted by "Le Bernardin" kitchen's team and also keep my eyes on the cheese trolley:

Amuse-Bouches
Shrimp salad on an Endives
Asian Tuna Tartar
Chicken Provençal on a stick
Celery Soup with Black Truffle
Classic Spanacopida, Spinach and Feta Cheese
Salmon Croque-Monsieur with Gruyère

Cheese Trolley
Constant Bliss (American cheese, cow's milk, tastes like a double or triple cream)
Robiola (Italian, soft ripened cheese made with cow, sheep and goat's milk)
Garrotxa (Spanish, pressed cheese made with unpasteurized goat's milk in Catalonia)
St. Nectaire (French, pressed, uncooked cow's milk cheese made in Auvergne)
Beaufort (French, heated, pressed, salted cow's milk, hard cheese from Savoie)
Fontina (Italian, cow's milk semi-soft cheese from Valle d'Aosta, bordering nothern Piedmont)


I hope that you've enjoyed this tasting as much as me. Tampis! (if you missed it...).

See you next time for more tasting notes about some of my favorite wines.


Cheers! Enjoy!

Dom (aka LeDomduVin)


Step into the green! Drink more Bio and Organic wines (and food) from sustainable cultures and respect the environment!

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Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2029, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).