2004 Bouchard Pere et Fils
Le Corton Grand Cru
Cote de Beaune Burgundy France
Clean, bright, clear cherry ruby color. Rich aromas of dark cherry and berries intermingle with floral, mineral, spicy, and peppery notes with a touch of earth. The palate is gorgeous, with rich flavors of ripe dark cherry and red berries framed by refreshing acidity. The finish is quite long, fresh, and mineral with slight herbal nuances and present, young, and slightly astringent tannins. Yet, nothing major or unexpected for the 2004 vintage, which was not as ripe as 2003 or even as complex as 2005.
Although some aspects of the 2004 vintage resemble more of 2001, it also seems to be a good compromise between 2002 and 2006, two vintages with great whites and some interesting reds for those who will make an effort to search, taste, and pick and choose the right producers and vineyards.
Overall, I think this wine was really well crafted. It has great texture and structure, and the finish still has plenty of fruit to overcome the tannins and green notes.
Yet, it is still too young and green, in my opinion, and deserves a bit more time to integrate. I hope that the green notes will diminish, too, but I'm not so sure about that. Green notes, astringency, and bitterness never really disappear, even with time; if they are not ripe enough to start with, they will remain.
I can already hear people making negative comments, but at the end of the day, and despite what I said above, I still think that one should give more credit to this wine and, to a certain extent, to the vintage.
After all, compared to 2003 and 2005, 2004 remains a good bargain vintage, even if it was not highly rated in quality, some producers succeed to make some good and/or interesting wines. And this wine confirmed, once again, that exceptions can exist even in odd vintages. It is only a matter of being open-minded and adventurous enough to find them.
Enjoy,
Ledomduvin (a.k.a. Dominique Noel)
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