Showing posts with label Lafite Rothschild. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lafite Rothschild. Show all posts

Wednesday, September 6, 2017

Souvenirs of a Dinner with Outstanding Wines - Encore un grand moment en compagnie de Grandes Dames…


Souvenirs of a Dinner with Outstanding Wines 


Encore un grand moment en compagnie de Grandes Dames…


The wine selection of the dinner © LeDomduVin

Over the last 25 years of my career as Sommelier and Wine buyer for restaurants, retails and private clients, I have been lucky enough to have the privilege to buy, sale, promote, look after, open, prepare, conditioned and taste some of the greatest, oldest and rarest wines in the world.

I have always felt very humbled by these pieces of history, reminiscent of the past, of an era, of a specific year or vintage should I say. 

“Mémoires d’une époque, moments d’histoire dans des flacons de toutes sortes arborant des étiquettes aux noms prestigieux et reconnus de par le monde” as I say in French.    

Yet, I must admit that I never seen, taken care of, prepared, opened and tasted as many of these old and rare gems as within the last 5 years that I have been working for Goldin Wines as Wine Quality Control Director and Sommelier.

Our Chairman is an avid connoisseur and collector when it comes to wine. He mostly buys and drinks the top 250 wines in the world, predominantly French, from Bordeaux, Burgundy and Rhone.

And the stellar wine collection in the company’s and restaurant’s cellars is very representative of his love for high quality wines (proof in my previous posts about the Display Cellar at the company’s French restaurant “Le Pan Apiciushere and here)

At this point of the game, when you reached the pinnacle and play around the richest men in the world, wine is a must, a necessity, a way of showing your wealth as part of a luxurious, well mannered and educated lifestyle.   

His wine sharing generosity with his guests, friends and others from his entourage, is a well-known fact in the industry. And he always selects great wines to pair with his dinners whether as the host or as a guest.  

Although, he has his own Chefs and catering team to take care of the food and service, when it comes to wine, he often asked me to be the Sommelier to take care of the wines for some of his dinners.

More especially, if the guests are important Chinese or foreign people, as it looks good for a Chairman of his stature to have his own personal Sommelier, moreover being French from Bordeaux and grandson of a winemaker... (nothing wrong with self promotion).  

Looking around the archives in my computer, I stumbled across pictures of dinner back in November 2015. I cannot tell you where it was, or who were the attendees or even what was the occasion. I cannot either show you pictures of the people or the place, as this kind of dinners are very private and it will be indecent to reveal specific details about them.

It is one of the main duties and responsibilities of the people working the front house of a restaurant or private dining room (like Maitre D’ and Sommelier and waiters), to always respect the privacy and secrecy of the clients while providing them with an attentive and flawless service.

Whatever you’ve seen, heard or witnessed, you need to keep your mouth shut and do not speak of it or repeat anything to anyone. It is a Golden Rule in the restaurant business.

However, what I can show you is the wine selection of that particular dinner. Once again it was a treat for the eyes and the palate for the guests and a Sommelier night to remember for me.

As always, images are stronger and louder than words, so let’s have a look at this amazing lineup of old and rare ladies (as I like to call them) 



Billecart Salmon 1961 Magnum @ LeDomduVin

All in magnum size (except for the Riesling Auslese) and in the order of the 1st picture above at the beginning of this post: 
  • Billecart Salmon Brut Champagne Vintage 1961
  • DRC Montrachet 1989
  • La Mission Haut-Brion 1959
  • Haut-Brion 1961
  • Lafite-Rothschild 1959
  • Latour 1961
  • Mouton Rothschild 1945
  • Petrus 1961
  • DRC La Tache 1990
  • Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel (#17) 


Encore un grand moment en compagnie de Grandes Dames……  



Billecart Salmon 1961 Magnum Cork @ LeDomduVin


First a selection of what will be drunk during the dinner was made.....  


The Wine Selection of the Dinner selected in the private Cellar
© LeDomduVin

Then they had to be opened and prepared... 


The Durand Corkscrew with one of the corks © LeDomduVin


La Mission Haut-Brion 1959 Magnum © LeDomduVin


Lafite Rothschild 1959 and Mouton Rothschild 1945 Magnum
© LeDomduVin


Latour 1961 Magnum © LeDomduVin


Petrus 1961 Magnum © LeDomduVin

Then I had to double decant them... 

NB: double decanting a wine consists of decanting the wine in a decanter first, then put it back in the bottle, as presentation is better in the bottle in front of the guests


Dominique Noël decanting Lafite Rothschild 1959 Magnum © LeDomduVin


Dominique Noël decanting Lafite Rothschild 1959 Magnum © LeDomduVin

Et voila.... the bottles were prepared, decanted at least half an hour prior the dinner and were waiting patiently to be served... 


The Red wines selection for the dinner © LeDomduVin


Dominique Noël with the Red wines selection for the dinner © LeDomduVin

My god, what an amazing lineup!?!

It was definitely a very exciting night for a Sommelier like me and the wines being in magnum size showed beautifully and surprisingly youthful compared to their 750ml counterparts that I had the chance to taste previously in various occasions and places. It is not true for everything, but when it comes to the size of a bottle of wine, BIGGER is BETTER !?! 

The Macallan Vintage Selection


In terms of other beverages, a nice selection of The Macallan Vintage whisky was also available at the dinner including vintage 1939, 1940, 1953, 1954 and 1958


A selection of The Macallan Vintage whisky available at the dinner © LeDomduVin


The Cohiba 35th Anniversario Box


For the cigar aficionados (like me), a selection of Cohiba Cigars from a 35th Anniversario Box was also available.

Cohiba Cigars 35th Anniversario Box © LeDomduVin


Cohiba Cigars 35th Anniversario Box © LeDomduVin


The White Truffles d'Alba


I cannot show you the menu either, but all I can tell you is that there were a lot of white truffle shaves on the plates that night... Even the Chef Edward Voon ("Le Pan Apicius") who was cooking for that dinner, invited me to clean the truffles with him as they were too many for one man to handle (even for one skillful and talented Chef like him..😉)


White Truffles of Alba © LeDomduVin


Dominique Noël and Chef Edward Voon 
cleaning White Truffles © LeDomduVin 


Dominique Noël and Chef Edward Voon cleaning White Truffles © LeDomduVin


Dominique Noël cleaning a fairly sizeable White Truffle 
© LeDomduVin



Voilà, that's all folks... but stay tuned for more posts and pictures of old and rare ladies and grandes dames... 

FYI: For those who may have noticed the moustache, every November I participate and support "Movember", an annual event involving growing your moustache during the whole month of November to raise funds and awareness of men's health issues, such as prostate cancer, testicular cancer and men's suicide.


Santé!

LeDomduVin a.k.a Dominique Noël

#billecartsalmon #1961 #drcmontrachet #1989 #lamissionhautbrion #1959 #hautbrion #1961
#lafiterothschild #1959 #latour #1961 #moutonrothschild #1945 #petrus #1961 #drclatache #1990
#fritzhaagbraunebergerjuffersonnenuhrrieslingauslesegoldkapsel #bordeaux #burgundy #germany #oldandrarebottles #oldandrarewines #oldandrarevintages #wine #wines #vin #vins #ledomduvin #cohiba #cigars #themacallan #whisky #whitetruffles





Tuesday, July 26, 2016

Crescendo in strength... another night of great wines

Crescendo in strength... another night of great wines


Wines of the night - 17.07.2016 | LeDomduVin ©

And here we go again, back into the apartment with the view overlooking at Hong Kong.... Beautiful, isn't it? Except for the weather this time, tainted by the usual and almost permanent grey of the blanket of clouds always hovering above the city. I let you admire the view... but i think that once again the best view of the night was the one on these 6 gems above... the wines of the night were a festival of greatness, climbing the ladder of strength and richness the closer we got to the last bottle.   

Hong Kong from the dinner's apartment - 17.07.2016 | LeDomduVin ©



Hong Kong from the dinner's apartment - 17.07.2016 | LeDomduVin ©

These bottles were served with a traditional Chinese dinner, concocted by the house Chinese Chef. Do not ask me to translate the menu, none of them spoke really fluent English and i hard a hard time trying to understand what they were trying to describe. However, I took a few pictures that speak for themselves.  





Lafite Rothschild 1961 - 17.07.2016 | LeDomduVin ©

Lafite Rothschild 1961
Level was low
Cork quite damp but still solid
Restraint on the nose at opening
Still cherry, earth, spice, with slightly evolved notes after 30 minutes
The palate is light, slightly flat in my opinion compared to previously opened bottles and not as full as I remembered it, but still possessed enough acidity to keep bright. Not bright enough compared to previous bottle.

La Mission Haut-Brion 1982 - 17.07.2016 | LeDomduVin ©

La Mission Haut Brion 1982
Literally a bomb after the Lafite,,so young and powerful. Too young in my opinion.
Beautiful nose, fresh notes, menthol, eucalyptus, smoke, earth, spice, touch peppery.
Beautiful, lush, round, coating in the pallet. Here again, touch spicy peppery, smoky, ripe figs, touch prunny.
Lovely balance and texture in the pallet, lingering until the amazing finish.
Le Pin 2000 - 17.07.2016 | LeDomduVin ©


LePin 2000.... 
How to put it? An amazingly generous and friendly fat baby. Big, round, friendly, coating, full, explosing upfront, yet gradually expanding in every way on its way to the finish. Gaining in strength and fullness. Lots of dark fruit, wood, spice, earth,. What a wine! Yet after such an incredible beginning and mid-palate... I would have love the flavor in the finish to be a little more lingering and the finish itself  longer. Strange, the first things that came to my mind, when i tasted it, were Californien style Merlot and Robert Parker... go figure... but it gave me this impression.


Petrus 1989 - 17.07.2016 | LeDomduVin ©

Petrus 1989
Sous bois,  spice, mushroom, smoky scorched earth, peppery. Very dark fruit. Almost hard. Great acidity in the pallet, lot of spicy, peppery, notes, super dark fruit and more earth. It is paysan wine (in a good way) really impressive and serious attitude. Too serious. Dark and strict. Powerful yet refine.
Beautiful, elegant, refine nose, figs, red and dark berries, some nuts, touch mineral, a smart nose. The palate follow even more beautiful and attractive

Guigal Cote-Rotie La Landonne 1986 - 17.07.2016 | LeDomduVin ©



Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1990 - 17.07.2016 | LeDomduVin ©








Right after double decantation - 17.07.2016 | LeDomduVin ©











Monday, July 4, 2016

De Grandes Dames | Vins d'Anthologie

De Grandes Dames : Vins d'Anthologie 


Wines of the night | LeDomduVin  © 

About a few weeks ago, on June 21st, prior to the 1945 horizontale (read it here), I had another dinner where I had to prepare, condition, decant, taste and serve some amazing wines.
A selection to dream of (once again) for a Sommelier like me!

In the order of the picture above from left to right:

Haut-Brion 1986
La Mission Haut-Brion 1957
Ausone 1962
Anglus 1989
Mouton Rothschild 1970
L'Evangile 1989
Margaux 1982
Lafite Rothschild 1961
Latour 1959
Cos d'Estournel 1968
Cheval Blanc 1990
Yquem 1990


The dinner occurred at a famous Hong Kong Chinese restaurant, but I need to admit, the food was not up to par with the wines selected for that occasion.

So no point to talk about the food pairing, and let's go straight to the wines, shall we?


Here they are in the order they were served.



La Mission Haut-Brion 1957 | LeDomduVin  ©

La Mission Haut-Brion 1957
It was amazing (no wonder the Haut Brion wines are my favorites) so smoky and earthy, balanced and harmonious and so flavourful... I could have stayed minutes just on the nose. Very much alive and kicking. Earthy nuances of underbrush, mushroom, game, figue, plum, spice and liquorice lingered in the lightly structured yet complex palate up until the finish. Loved it.

(DN-LDDV | 21.06.2016 | Average Retail Price 5,350 HKD | 620 Euros)





Haut-Brion 1986 | LeDomduVin  ©

Haut-Brion 1986
It was succulent and so youthful, but no surprise there as HB is my favorite wine. Almost a shame to open it so early. Earthy, smoky, red and dark berries fruit aromas and flavors with asphalt and stony nuances, so characteristic to Haut-Brion emanated from the glass and coated the rich, structured and textured palate, up to the full and generous finish. Harmonious and balanced by great acidity, quite common to most 86 Bordeaux Left Bank i tasted in the last 20 years, this wine is promising a bright future and still quite a few years in the bottle. Beautiful.

(DN-LDDV | 21.06.2016 | Average Retail Price 3,640 HKD | 425 Euros)




Latour 1959 | LeDomduVin  ©

Latour 1959
What a stunning wine! It had been quite a few months that I had not tried it and previous bottles were good, but this one was far much better than previously tasted and still so vibrant. Complex, long, rich, structured and textured, beautiful nose and stunning palate. Rich, generous, balanced, harmonious and solid enough to age quite a few more years in the bottle. Game, underbrush, mushroom, spice, wood and earth flavors mingled beautifully in the expanding palate and the lingering finish.

(DN-LDDV | 21.06.2016 | Average Retail Price 20,570 HKD | 2395 Euros)





Margaux 1982 | LeDomduVin  ©
Margaux 1982
A beauty, smooth and delicate, fragile but still very much alive and racy.  A ballerina as I like to call it. Floral, earthy nose leading to a velvety palate nuanced with dark berries, sous-bois and earthy tones balanced with great acidity and freshness tending to the gentle, silky finish. Margaux has always been feminine for me, and this 82 confirms it. A great example of what Margaux is all about, more especially in this classic Vintage. Great silhouette.

(DN-LDDV | 21.06.2016 | Average Retail Price 7,910 HKD | 915 Euros)





Lafite Rothschild 1961 | LeDomduVin  ©

Lafite Rothschild 1961
It worried me to begin with as the level was low and the overall conditions acceptable but not great, confirmation came with the cork being totally damp and friable.. color was dull and tasted a bit flat... this bottle was not a good example, though the wine was not bad but has suffered due to the oxidation and eventual old seepage. To bad. I tasted some tremendous examples of Lafite 61 before, but this one is not one of them. The problem with these old vintages of top tear wines, which traveled all around the world and passed from the hands of a collector to another via Auction Houses, is that it is very difficult to define the quality of the wine inside and more especially the conditions in which it has been stored all these years prior being opened. Even with my knowledge and experience of inspecting countless amount of old bottles for more than 20 years, it is always a difficult task. Difficult to prevent bad bottles from time to time despite obvious signs to the eyes of a seasoned Sommelier like me boasting a certain expertise on the subject.

(DN-LDDV | 21.06.2016 | Average Retail Price  13,568 HKD | 1580 Euros)



Ausone 1962 | LeDomduVin  ©
Ausone 1962
What a nice surprise as I never tasted it before and was not sure what to expect, but it was well behaved, on the light side but still complex enough to be really enjoyable.




Angelus 1989 | LeDomduVin  ©

 
Angelus 1989
Good and youthful but still felt to impress somehow despite its complexity.

L'Evangile 1989 | LeDomduVin  ©


L'Évangile 1989
Pretty good, consistent and well structured, and thorough till the end.
Too young somehow and slightly restraint somehow but still very elegant.

Mouton Rothschild 1970 | LeDomduVin  ©


Mouton Rothschild 1970
Much better than expected for a vintage that was not so great... but then again was not that up to the par for a wine pretending to 1st growth position a few vintages later...

Cos d'Estournel 1968 | LeDomduVin  ©

Cos d'Estournel 1968



Château Cheval Blanc 1990 | LeDomduVin  ©

Cheval Blanc 1990


Yquem 1990 | LeDomduVin  ©


Yquem 1990



Corks of the night | LeDomduVin  ©


Trouble | LeDomduVin  ©


Corks of the Night | LeDomduVin  ©



Standing by the ladies of the night | LeDomduVin  ©

...... till next time Ladies

Dominique Noël | LeDomduVin