Tasting Session with Bertrand Demontoux portfolio

This an old post that I totally forgot to publish, so here it is. Bertrand, I hope you are well and New York is treating you good.

Tasting Session with Bertrand Demontoux portfolio  

I have known Bertrand since I've worked in PJWine.com, let's say at least for 5 or 6 years, may be more. During that time, I saw him evolved from fresh French salesman and brand manager representing Jaillance to constituting his own portfolio and now having his own distribution company.

He is not even 30 and has already embraced the New York city mantra: "If I can make it there, I can make it anywhere."

For the past two years, he put most of his efforts, time and more especially savings into that project. Traveling various regions of France during his spare time to find the right producers, and the most expressive, balanced, Terroir oriented wines with excellent quality / price ratio.

Tall, always put together and formally dress, Bertrand has a taste for quality, refinement and elegance, which is reflected in all of his wines and their labels that he even took pride to redesign himself, for better consistency, image and presentation. And it works pretty well, I must say. Even customer's comments and fee back regarding his wines and labels are full of praise.

Bertrand is now part of these small importers / distributors who have flourished over the last 4-5 years and enabled New York to become one of the greatest wine cities, or should I say "Vinocity, of the world, by offering more eclectic and esoteric wines from smaller, more artisanal, often Organic, Biodynamic, Lutte Raisonnee and / or sustainable producers and wineries, located in previously little known, poorly regarded or rarely mentioned as well as up-and-coming viticultural areas of both world.

He passed by the other day with 6 wines and I need to admit that I liked all of them. His portfolio is rather small for now, but the producers and their wines have been chosen very carefully for their balance, elegance, focus, complexity and Terroir characteristics. Moreover, they are all Natural wines (Bio or Organic or Lutte Raisonnée or Sustainable).

Here are a few of the wines that we tasted that day:

2010 Clos des Augustins Pic Saint-Loup Rosé Languedoc France 

Suggested retail price $14-$16

Imported / distributed by Bertrand De Montoux

60% Cinsault and 40% Grenache. Biodynamic and vinification in cement tank. Clean, soft, unctuous, creamy, mouth coating yet bright and crisp due to refreshing acidity; excellent balance, long, mineral, a touch spicy on the finish. Beautiful texture and acidity and focus. Great quality / ratio wine from an appellation lesser known to the US market. Very nice. (more info at www.closdesaugustins.com)

2010 Château d'Anglès La Clape Rosé Classique Languedoc France

Suggested retail price $14-$16

Imported / distributed by Bertrand De Montoux

80% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah & 10% Grenache. Lutte raisonnée, cuve beton (cement tank), from  La Clape, which one of the best appellation of Languedoc, located east of Narbonne, regrouping about 20 wineries sharing the "Montagne de La Clape" directly facing the Mediterranean sea. The wine is produced by Eric Fabre, ex-Technical Director of Château Lafite Rothschild, which says it all. Light melon color, fragrant nose, the palate is textured, oily, mineral, long, lot of depth and complexity. Lovely well crafted wine. (more info at www.chateaudangles.com)

2009 Domaine des Pierrettes "Element Terre" Sauvignon Blanc Rilly-sur-Loire France by Geffard et Guilbaud

Suggested retail price $12-$15

Imported / distributed by Bertrand De Montoux

100% Sauvignon Blanc. Lutte raisonnée, produced by Vicent Guilbaud et Cyril Geffard, who learn some of their skills at Domaine Pierre Luneau-Papin. 18 hectares of vines. Very crisp, soft, light, good acidity, mouth coating, ample, excellent balance with a lot of character. limey, crispy finish.  Lovely. (more info at www.domainedespierrettes.fr).

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

White from Red grapes and Rose from "Gris" grapes that were always vinified in white, a new trend?

White from Red grapes and Rose from "Gris" grapes that were always vinified in white, a new trend?

In one of my recent posts, I was describing a Pinot Noir Bianco from the Vallee d’Aoste, and was asking you to mark my words on it, as it will become a trend very soon to produce and drink white wines made out of red grape varieties. Today, I feel the need to write a post to elaborate that concept and tell you why it will become a new trend.

You’ve tried many Pinot Noir Red and Rose wines, and surely many Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio white wines too. But did you ever taste a Pinot Noir white or a Pinot Grigio Rose? No?

And don’t get me wrong, but I’m not talking about the kind of pink sweet wines that made Californian “White Zinfandel", "white Merlot" or "white Cabernet Sauvignon” famous 20 years ago. No, I’m talking about the good stuff.

If you didn’t, it is not surprising, because they are not too many of these kinds of wine on the market yet.  But I can assure you that it is a new thing that just started but should spread out really rapidly within the next few vintages. More especially, if we consider climate changes, global warming and other weather discrepancies like those we have been experiencing over the last 10-15 years, white wines made out red grapes and rose wines made out of grapes with geyish-pinkish skin color but were always vinified as white, will definitely prevail over red wines. In fact, you can see it in the sales (retails and restaurants), white and rose wines are definitely more in favor than they were 5-10 years ago.

However, within the last 60 years of winemaking on earth, many experiences and trends occurred; some lasted, some disappeared, some evolved with ups and downs but for the better and rarely for the worst (fortunately for us).

• In the 50s and the 60s, wines were very tannic and acid and needed time to develop and open up, chemicals were good and helpful and smocking was healthy then.

• In the 60s-70s, wine was overproduced to keep-up with the demand of a growing world population that went from 2 billions people in the 20s to 4,5 billions in the 60s as a result of the children of the Baby Boom born just after WWII; machines and tractors replaced human workers in the vineyards and chemicals were still used in profusion; productivity overruled quality.  

• In the 70s-80s, heavy toasted new oak barrel ageing became an institution and more especially in the 80s everything needed to be oaky; the American influence from critics like Robert Parker Jr. and magazine like the Wine Spectator on how the European, more especially on how the French wines should taste to be sold to the US market, triggered major changes and established new factors in winemaking understanding and process. As an opportunist market, Bordeaux led the way from the beginning and took great advantage of the American points systems, which brought them to where they are now, except that the US are not buying the classified growth anymore, but the Chinese are.     

• In the 80s-90s, the green movement with sustainable, lutte raisonnee and organic practices became more obvious and more relevant, fewer chemicals were used and social consciousness towards a greener life awaken. Oak was still important with the Garagist, but only the wealthiest wineries and producers could really afford new oak, the other continue to follow the way they could.  

• In the 90s-2000s, the biodynamic movement initiated by the studies and books of Rudolf Steiner written back in the 20s-30s (amongst a few doctors and professors who had great interest on the subject at that time), ignited the greener practices winemaking revolution that we are experiencing today.

• 2000s-2010s, the world experienced (and continues to experience) the worst financial crisis ever and the bloodiest terrorist attacks in many countries; wine-wise, classified Growth Bordeaux broke price records for nearly each vintage, multiplying their by 8-9 times in 10 years: a 1st growth Bordeaux 2000 vintage was going for about $125-$150 "En Primeur"in NYC, about $300+ for 2003 and roughly $500+ for 2005, and 10 years later due to the excessive demand from the emerging countries, the same Chateau was offer between $875-$950 En Primeur for the 2009 vintage and the 2010 went even higher...  

• 2010-2011, the wines under $20, and more especially under $15 are the main target, anything above $30 doesn't move anymore, people are still very cautious on how to spend their money and want great value for money. Importer and distributors reshape their portfolio. Retails and restaurants build up their wine-list with better wines at lower prices. And producers try to new grounds and test the market with new products (i.e. whites made out of red grapes for example). Re-apparition of independent distillers and winemakers, everybody wants to give it a try and everybody thinks that it is very lucrative. Bad news, the market is overcrowded and overflowed, yet business continues and we will see what happen later on. 

In terms of vinification techniques too, we tried pretty much everything in every forms and shapes: amphorae, ceramic, glass, oak barrels, wooden vats, glass lined or epoxy or bare cement tanks, all sort of stainless steel and fiberglass tanks and vats, and lately we are even back to putting wine back into amphoraes and other containers and ageing them in the sea or the ocean.

And much more questions for each vintage: Green harvest? De-leafing? Early pruning? Vendange en vert? Parcel selection? Sorting table? Ripeness or crispiness? Acidity? Tannins? Earthiness? Smoothness? Racking or no racking? “sur lie” or no lees? Malolactic or no Malo? Filtered or unfiltered? Fine or unfined? Egg’s white or bentonite? Heavy, medium or lightly toasted barrels? Used or new barrels? Barrel or Stainless steel? Clear or dark bottle? Fancy or trendy or classic or designed label? Plastic or wood or glass cork? Etc…

In the wine world, the trade (including wineries, producers, brokers, importers, distributors, retailers, etc...) tried pretty much everything that could be tried and done, but it is never enough. In this fast paced life that we live in, dictated by efficiency, productivity, profit and design, and always going forward, pushing back the limits of our imagination to always create something new and always change the trend to keep people attention and interest, in order to increase sales and profit and incite people consumption and consummation, we had to come up with something new.

And the new trend for me, as far as I can see and taste, given the little signs here and there during tastings over the last few months, will surely be very soon, if not already: whites made out of red grapes and rose made out “Gris” grapes that were always vinified white.

What is “Gris” means? "Gris"refers to the greyish-pinkish skin color of the grape. It indicates that the grape skin, which contain the anthocyanins, polyphenols and other pigment chemicals responsible for the varying shade of the skin color, is neither usually in the yellow spectrum for white or usually in the red-dark blue spectrum for the red, but somewhere in between.

In France, usually, when a wine boasts a slightly pinkish color for a white, it is often called “Gris”; however, this pinkish color, or hue depending on the intensity, is generally occurring because the skin of the used grape isn’t really white, but slightly pigmented or lightly colored, giving a grey-blue-pinkish color to the grape. The word "Gris" is then sometimes added to the name of the grape to differentiate it from its sibling, like: Sauvignon Gris, Pinot Gris, Frontenac Gris, Moschofilero, etc.. those are grapes that are pinkish, but yet they are all mostly vinified as white.

Take the Pinot Gris grape for example, Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio wines are usually white, but the skin color of the grapes is grayish-pinkish, not white or yellow as most people will figure, especially when talking about a wine that all people refers as white. See the picture of a Pinot Gris grape above to better understand what I'm trying to say. As you can now understand, which must be weird for those of you that didn't know, Pinot Gris is a white wine made out of pinkish grapes (Pictures courtesy of www.northwest-wine.com).

However, I think that from now on, we will see more of this “Gris” wines in the Rose color, and both will be available, the white and the pink version. For example, Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio are usually vinified without the skin and are in most people mind, white. And that is because, like for any whites, the grapes are gently pressed to avoid skin contact, fermented without the skin and the resulting pressed and fermented juice is white. Now think that if the same grape variety was fermented with its skin, like for a red, then the resulting Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio will be pink or reddish (see example below).

As for the whites crafted out of red grape varieties, mark my words, they will be very common and trendy within the next few vintages. It has already started. The other day I tasted a white that was made out of 2 usual white grape varieties combined with Merlot; yes, Merlot! Amongst other red grapes vinified in white, Merlot or Pinot Noir are sometimes blended with other white grapes to add structure and texture and weight (to a certain extend).

I know it is weird somehow, but these wines are pretty good. Making white wines out red grapes is a winemaking method that is up-and-coming and will rapidly evolve as it open the door to countless possibilities and combinations, and will surely inspire a new trend among the new winemakers who want to distinguish themselves from the pack and consumers in search of something new and different.    

But enough talking, here are two really good examples that I discovered and bought recently. I highly recommend them, as they are deliciously crisp, light, refreshing and summery.

2009 La Crotta di Vegneron Pinot Noir Bianco Vallée d’Aoste Italy
Suggested retail price $14-$17
Imported / distributed by Polaner in NYC

If the 2009 La Crotta di Vegneron Pinot Noir Bianco adorns this very attractive, super-light-onion-skin meet orange-melon-pinkish hue, it is because it was crafted with 100% Pinot Noir grapes vinified off the skins, like a white, hence the slightly pink intriguing color. Technically it is a white, not a rose, despite the appearance. The nose is rather light, fresh, and mineral with a touch of cherry. The palate is also really light, crisp, racy, with lot of minerality, zesty acidity and very enjoyable texture, yet it may appear non-descript for some, but I really like it.

Like most wines from the Vallée d’Aoste, this wine combines elegance, refinement, and freshness in a focused palate, enhanced by the characteristic searing acidity, minerality and quality of the fruit. One day if I can, I think I will retire in the Vallée d’Aoste, this peaceful and undisturbed haven of peace north of Piedmont seems to have seduced my taste buds to the point that only a few other wine regions in the world can.

The second one is the best example of Pinot Grigio Rose that I have personally tasted yet.

2010 Azienda Agricola Calatroni Pinot Grigio Rose Provincia di Pavia Oltro Pavese Lombardia Italy
Suggested retail price $10-$13
Imported / distributed by Vignaioli Selection in NYC

Nestled in the hills of the Versa valley, the Calatroni estate rests in the village of Montevalco Versiggia, in the heart of the Oltrepo’ Pavese region (Lombardi, central northern Italy).

This family run estate is dedicated to cultivating their 37 acres of vineyards following tradition and experience. They grow grapes typical of the area, including Pinot Grigio and Pinot Nero, striving to produce both refreshing white wines and highly enjoyable reds. The vines are grown with respect for nature, trying to maintain the integrity and rusticity of the plants. The estate also has a strong interest in renewable energy.

The wine is made out of 100% Pinot Grigio from 7.4 acres of vines planted at 500 meters (asl) on partly calcareous soil and south, southwest exposure.  The grapes are harvested at the end of August/early September from 15 year old vines. The entire cluster is used in the vinification. The grapes are transferred to tanks, where maceration takes place at a temperature between 50-60°. After a soft pressing, the must has an intense pink color, which then becomes the softer pink typical of a pinot grigio rosè. Fermentation takes places for 25-35 days at a temperature of 57-61°. The wine is refermented: the residual sugars from the first fermentation are utilized to make this a ‘vivace’ (sparkling) wine. 1,500 cases produced.

Light copper, fuchsia color of medium intensity. The nose is fresh, delicate and elegant with wild flowers and violets, light touch of wild red berries and hints of yeast (surely due to the re-fermentation and accentuated by the fizziness).  Soft and friendly, the palate is light, crisp and refreshing, gently airy due to the tiny bubbles “pearling” on the tongue and somewhat intriguing but in a very good way. The finish possesses delicate wild berries flavors with floral and mineral notes. I love it and I can drink a lot of that staff. I keep promoting it because I think that it will change the mind of people that see Pinot Grigio, as a boring cheap wine.

The effervescence makes this wine extremely pleasant and refreshing, excellent as an aperitif, wonderful with fish, in particular clams and crustaceans, finger foods, and soft, fresh cheese. Every time I opened a bottle in the store, I was pleased to see the positive reaction and the pleasurable expression on the face of my customers telling me: "It is great, different, but good, light, crisp and slight fizzy!".

One could think that it was a promoting stunt on my part to advertise and sell a bad wine, but on the contrary, like for all the wine that I buy for the store, I bought it because I loved it; because I knew that it will trigger some interest; and because once again, I proved that in the world of wine, never say that you do not like this type of wine or this type of grape variety, because you may always be surprised by a wine that you thought you will not like.


In conclusion, I will say that if all the whites made out of red grapes and the "Gris" grapes usually vinified in white but produced in red, taste that great, no wonder it will rapidly become a trend. It is my opinion, but you'll see.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info and label for Calatroni Pinot Grigio partly taken and edited courtesy of the importer website at www.vignaioliamerica.com and you can also visit the winery website at www.calatronivini.it

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

2009 La Crotta di Vegneron Pinot Noir Bianco Vallée d’Aoste Italy

Decidedly, it seems that I cannot escape my attraction for the wines from the Vallée d’Aoste. These mountainous wines, which offer lot of minerality, crisp racy acidity and refreshing light fruit aromas and flavors, are so focused, versatile and pleasing, that it is difficult not to enjoy them all year long.

In previous posts, I wrote about producers like Ottin, Grosjean, Ermes Pavese, Noussan, etc… yet, a few days ago, a customer asked me to buy a wine from a producer that I wasn’t acquainted with and I would like to share this discovery with you.

La Crotta di Vegneron

“La Crotta di Vegneron” is a kind of a funny name for a cooperative, which resembles in French to “La Crotte du Vigneron” that literally means “the excrement of the vinegrower”, but I think it means “the dirt of the vinegrower”, in a sense of “the work of the vinegrower”. However, I was unable to find a proper translation for the word “Crotta”, which doesn’t seem to correspond to anything in Italian, but surely have a meaning the local language of Aosta. (I’m open to any answer).      

Created in 1980, La Crotta di Vegneron is a small cooperative located in Chambave, a village about 20 kilometers east of the town of Aosta, in the Vallée d’Aoste region, northwestern part of Italy.

The Vallée d’Aoste, also known as Valle d’Aosta, lay in the mountains and foothills southeast of the Mont-Blanc Mountain. The Vallée was created thousands of years ago by the melting glacier and the natural erosion. It is home to quaint little villages nestled down at the bottom of the valley and on the slopes surrounded by beautiful mountains. As it crosses the Aosta Valley, the Dora Baltea River, which originates by the Mont-Blanc, flows through the city of Aosta (where the Buthier runs into it) and then Saint-Vincent, before entering Piedmont.

From North to South and West to East, from the Mont-Blanc to Piedmont, one exploring the Vallée d’Aoste will cross the villages of Courmayeur, Pré-Saint-Didier, Morgex, La Salle, Saint-Pierre, Serre, Aosta, Quart, Nus, Chambave, Châtillon, Saint-Vincent, Monjovet, Champdepraz, Verrès, Donnas and Pont-Saint-Martin. 

Although smaller, independent producers now produce some of the greatest and most renowned wines of Aosta, the cooperatives of Morgex, L’Enfer d’Arvier and Donnas, are still producing excellent wines too that are very characteristic and representative of the village they originate from.

As another great example of quality oriented cooperative, “La Crotta di Vegneron” emphasizes classic and stunning expressions of the individual Terroirs of the tiny sub-appellations comprised between the village of Chambave and Nus. that would otherwise be left undiscovered due to the tiny patchwork of vineyard holdings in these villages.

Although there is a history of grape growing in this region since the 1200’s, many of the vineyards were abandoned in the decades after WWII. They risked total extinction until the 1970’s, when the Italian government stepped in to help rebuild many of these small cooperative wineries to preserve the heritage of these vineyards and revive this peace haven.

Located in Chambave, La Crotta di Vegneron possesses steep, south-facing vineyards pasted to the sides of the mountains that soar above them, “Monte Avic” (3006 meters) to the south and the peak culminating at 2400+ meters just north the Village of Grand Villa (here too I couldn’t find a name for it, any ideas?).

The vines grow between 450 and 1,050 meters of altitude in soils formed from millions of years of glacial runoff. These soils are very mineral and are composed largely of rocks and sand, giving a strong underlying minerality to the resulting wines. As in other mountainous regions of Italy, there is a large diurnal temperature shift, which results in ample ripeness as well as refreshing acidity.

La Crotta di Vegneron’s winemaking philosophy respects the underlying Terroirs, the environment with organic practices and indigenous varietals of the region. Although there is some barrel aging used on some of the wines, new oak is kept to a bare minimum. The grapes are all hand-harvested, and all their red wines are fermented with natural yeasts to help emphasize their individual expression.

The cooperative produces many wines from local grape variety like Furmin and Petite Arvine, but also other thriving grapes like Gamay, Pinot Noir, Muller-Thurgau, Malvoisie, Muscat, Moscato. The wines are divided in 5 categories or labels: 

Passiti, Linea Superiore, Linea Tradizione, Linea Monovarietali, Linea Family.

I invite you to visit their website at www.lacrotta.it to discover these lines. 

2009 La Crotta di Vegneron Pinot Noir Bianco Vallée d’Aoste Italy
Suggested retail price $14-$17
Imported / distributed by Polaner in NYC

This post’s wine is very interesting in my opinion because, first, it is really good, and secondly, because it was crafted as a white from a red grape variety, which, mark my words, will be very common within the next few years. It has already started. The other day I tasted a white that was made out of 2 white grape varieties and Merlot; yes, Merlot for a white to add structure and texture and weight to a certain extend. I know it is weird somehow, but these wines are pretty good. It is a winemaking method that is up-and-coming and will rapidly evolve as it open the door to countless possibilities and combinations, and will surely inspire a new trend among the new winemakers who want to distinguish themselves from the pack.   

In France, usually, when a wine boasts a slightly pinkish color for a white, it is often called “Gris”; however, it is generally occurring because the skin of the grape isn’t really white, but slightly pigmented giving a grey-blue-pinkish color to the grape, like: Sauvignon Gris, Pinot Gris, Frontenac Gris, Moschofilero, etc.. 

If the 2009 La Crotta di Vegneron Pinot Noir Bianco adorns this very attractive, super light onion skin meet orange melon color, it is because it was crafted with 100% Pinot Noir grapes vinified off the skins, hence the slightly pink intriguing color. The nose is rather light, fresh, and mineral with a touch of cherry. The palate is also really light, crisp, racy, with lot of minerality, zesty acidity and very enjoyable texture, yet it may appear non-descript for some, but I really like it.

Like most wines from the Vallée d’Aoste, this wine combines elegance, refinement, and freshness in a focused palate, enhanced by the characteristic searing acidity, minerality and quality of the fruit. One day if I can, I think I will retire in the Vallée d’Aoste, this peaceful and undisturbed haven of peace north of Piedmont seems to have seduced my taste buds to the point that only a few other wine regions in the world can.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken from the importer website at  www.polanerselections.com  and from the winery website at www.lacrotta.it

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

Feudi di San Gregorio and Terredora di Paolo craft delightful Campania's wines

Feudi di San Gregorio and Terredora di Paolo craft delightful Campania's wines

I personally love the wines from the northern part of Italy, more especially those from Piedmont, Val d’Aosta and Friuli. Growing mainly on slopes, more or less high, on the foothills of the Alps, the wines produced there present great minerality and enhancing acidity, conferring the resulting wines a lot of appeal, depth, brightness and complexity, without being heavy or too full. Often age worthy, these wines whether white, red or rosé are usually very attractive, earthy, focus and inviting.

Yet, there is another region in Italy that I love. No it is not Tuscany, although I appreciate it a great deal, I prefer Campania. The volcanic soil of this wonderful sunbathed region of the southwestern Italy confers to its wines great complexity, minerality and earthiness, which are very-difficult-to-dislike features (especially in wines).

Lately, I cannot praise enough the fact that my favorite rosé of the moment is:



2009 Feudi di San Gregorio Ros’Aura Rosato Campania Italy
Suggested retail price $11-$14
Imported by Palm Bay in NYC

Made from 100% hand-harvested Aglianico grapes coming from10-20 year old vines grown between at 1,000 - 1,650 ft above sea level around the communes of Taurasi, Pietradefusi, Castelvetere and Paternopoli in Campania. Planted in deep soil with moderately large grains originally from ash and fallen pumice. After de-stemming, free-run juice underwent a 12-hour maceration on the skins followed by a temperature controlled fermentation stainless steel tanks. The resulting wine is stunning.

The 2009 Feudi di San Gregorio Ros'Aura Rosato was a revelation and a very enjoyable surprise, surely one of the most inspiring Rosé(s) I tried this year so far. It has an attractive, intense and fairly deep colorful rose color. The nose is inviting with ripe, candied wild red berries and cherry fruits intermingled with earthy and mineral notes. The palate is medium bodied with great minerality enhanced by fresh and lively acidity with notes of freshly crushed wild berries on the lingering finish. Neither to dry neither to full, and definitely not sweet but rather full of mineral with juicy acidity and a great way of coating the palate, this is a very versatile and definitely food friendly wine. Great on its own, it will be perfect as an aperitif and delicious with chicken and turkey entrées, fish and grilled vegetables.

Feudi di San Gregorio is surely one of my favorite wineries of Campania and I’ve always enjoyed their wines (read my previous post on Feudi di San Gregorio at www.ledomduvin.com/2010/05/2008-feudi-di-san-gregorio-falanghina.html). Yet, Terredora di Paolo that I discovered more recently is equally good and interesting. Both made me come to the conclusion that my palate is indeed very inclined to Campania’s wines, more especially the whites.


As I am writing, I’m enjoying a few glasses of the younger sibling of the 1995 Taurasi that I described in a previous post: 2003 Terredora Dipaolo Taurasi DOCG Campania Italia.

Terredora di Paolo

Located in Montfusco, a village north of Avellino, Terredora is a continuation of the ancient story of Campania, its people and their passion for their land and their winemaking.

TERREDORA has been on the forefront of the wine renaissance in Campania since 1978. Today, with more than 150 hectares of vineyard land, Terredora is Campania’s largest wine producer and vineyard owner, with a worldwide reputation for the quality of its wines. Their commitment to excellence was proven in 1994 when they decided to vinify their own grapes. This decision was prompted by their belief that great wine comes from the balance of natural resources: terrain, varieties used, climate and man’s ability to work with nature.



2003 Terredora Di Paolo Taurasi DOCG Campania Italia
Suggesting retail price $34-$38
Imported/distributed by VIAS in NYC

Made from 100 % Aglianico grape variety, from vineyards in Lapio and Montemiletto, carefully selected and hand-harvested, the Terredora Dipaolo Taurasi was aged in small French oak barrels for 18 months. After blending the maturation continues in 35 hl oak barrels for 12 months and then in bottle for a further 8-12 months before release.

The 2003 vintage was unusually hot across the board in Europe, and I have always been a skeptic regarding how long some of these 2003(s) will last and take to integrate, and more especially how will they taste. After tasting many 2003 vintage wines from many European countries, I can say firmly that I’m not a fan of this vintage for sure.

In fact, due to a certain ripeness (or even over ripeness) and lack of acidity and harmony and even structure, resulting in heavier-than-usual fruit forward mouthfeel for quite a lot of wines from Bordeaux and Ribera del Duero to Greece, some of these wines were not great. They didn’t necessarily reflect their Terroir and region of origin for most of them. Moreover, that over ripeness with high alcohol content and unharmonious, slightly disjointed profile didn’t help for the sales. New world riper style of wine drinkers probably found them more to their taste, but, in my opinion, most 2003 wines had nothing to do with their usual selves in better or regular vintages.

Although not as good as the previously tasted 1995 vintage, the 2003 Terredora Dipaolo Taurasi DOCG Campania is a good, fruit forward wine that is ready now and not surprisingly don’t even need decanting. It has a medium to deep garnet color with slightly orange brick reflects. So far nothing too unusual! The nose is quite strong and aromatics with warm, ripe dark fruit and plum intermingled with earth, underbrush, spicy and woody notes, and hints of alcohol. Secondary and tertiary aromas are also appearing, a sign of premature ageing that is not wanted, but not unusual for this particular vintage (like most European 2003(s). The palate is ultra ripe with dark ripe fruit and berries, plums, dark spicy chocolate, earthy cider wood and pepper. The attack is quite full and expanding with oak and slight burnt touches. The finish is quite dry, a bit short some will say, with mixed slightly astringent and ripe tannins (in the same time) that appear a touch bitter (which not surprising either for this vintage).

Overall, even if not my style, the wine is not that bad, just a bit too typical from the 2003 vintage for my taste buds. But don’t get me wrong, it is perfectly drinkable and enjoyable and definitely remains a good earthy Aglianico (with a bit more scorched fruit than usual, granted!). On its own just now as I’m writing, it is warm, earthy and chocolaty and somewhat inspiring.


Fortunately, Terredora Di Paolo makes tremendous wines, and as I always say: a good winemaker will always make good wines good year bad year. Of course, it is often difficult to predict hazardous weather and other climatic conditions, like those of 2003.

We just bought (for the store) 3 wines from Terredora di Paolo, which are tremendous examples of the quality that this winery constantly achieves. The leading example is their benchmark Falanghina, which is a very versatile and inviting white to enjoy at any moment. The second wine is their Greco di Tufo, which is quite outstanding in most vintages.


However, the wine that I will describe last, is:



2008 Terredora di Paolo Aglianico Campania IGT Italy
Suggested retail price $13-$16
Imported by VIAS in NYC

The maceration of the grapes, at 24-25°C, does not exceed 7 days in order to obtain an excellent extraction of color without creating a heavy tannic structure. Aged in wood and stainless steel tanks, this wine succeeded to maintain great aromatic and freshness with complexity and depth that makes it an attractive ready to drink young wine.

The 2008 Terredora di Paolo Aglianico Campania IGT has a fairly dense ruby-purple red color with slight garnet reflects. The nose has bright dark cherry and ripe red cherry aromas with spicy and earth notes topped by violet scents and a slight gamey character. The balanced and Terroir oriented palate is forward, gentle and earthy with dark berry flavors and soft subtle oak characters mixed spicy hints, enhanced by excellent acidity. The lingering earthy finish is delightful and juicy, with a slight tannic touch that will integrate with a bit of time. Overall, it is a very nicely crafted wine and I liked it a lot.

The 2007 vintage was already quite nice; the 2008 seems slightly fruitier or juicier with good acidity and enjoyable harmony. Pair it traditional Italian and Mediterranean dishes including "charcuterie", soups and pasta dishes, lasagna, white meats and light main courses.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Step into the Green!

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Winery Profile: Domaine de Montcy Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny Laura Semeria "La Porte Dorée"Loire Valley France

Domaine de Montcy Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny Laura Semeria "La Porte Dorée"Loire Valley France

(A Savio Soares Selection in NYC)

Location: The Domaine de Montcy is located in a "Lieu dit" ("a place known as" in English) called "Voie de la Porte Dorée" (or "Porte Dorée"), about 4 kms to the southwest on the out skirt of Cheverny. A small village of the eastern Loire Valley, about 16 kilometers southeast of Blois and 80 kilometers east of Tours.

History: Born in Italy about 40 years ago, Laura Semeria, who followed the steps of her French husband Léonard across France to finally stop near the Loire River, now owns Domaine de Montcy. Her family has been making olive oil and Mediterranean products for three generations and she has always been acquainted with agriculture. She made her entire career in multinational food companies such as Unilever and Nestle. Dreaming to buy a wine estate and after months of searching in vain in Italy, it is, after all, the small appellation of Cheverny that opened its arms to her. She found an estate for sale with a very welcoming owner and a promising vineyard, and decided to buy it. This new acquisition allowed her to settle down in Cheverny, near the Château de Troussay of which the Domaine de Montcy now manages the old vines and the ancient vineyards of the Château.

Domaine: Domaine de Montcy perfectly corresponded to Laura’s criteria:

• A small AOC (label guaranteeing the quality of wine), rather unknown but with a lot of potential
  
• State of the art installations
  
• Best and recognized quality
  
• Professional team to support me
  
• Sales focus in restaurants and wine shops rather than in big groceries
  

The team: Laura supervises the estate and production while her husband, when is not helping her, is making cheese, which makes a lot of sense with wines! And they have two young daughters Ines and Elsa. The winemaker is a young brilliant and passionate agro-engineer who is able to take (reasonable!) risks to make the best out of our terroir. Additionally, they still have the support of their predecessor (that was also part of the deal).

Vineyard Management: Since 2005, Domaine de Montcy's vineyards management is under "agriculture raisonnée" (or sustainable culture, with an organic approach), a system of durable agriculture concerned and respectful of its environment (soils, vines, plants, herbs, insects, etc..), to produce better and more natural wines from carefully attended vines resulting in higher quality grapes. The cellar is also equipped with state of the art vinification tools allowing minimal intervention to craft more authentic wines.

Size and Production: The only objective of the Domaine is that the 120.000 bottles sold each year, out of the 20 hectares in production, offer the best characteristics of their Terroir, grape variety and climate of origin. Producing wines from both Appellations, Domaine de Montcy crafts some excellent Cheverny wines in red, white and rosé, as well as a great "Sauvignon Blanc VdP du Jardin de la France" and interesting sparkling "Crémant de Loire - Méthode Traditionnelle", and their benchmark Cour-Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny Cuvée Claude de France.

Vines and vineyards: The 20 hectares are divided as follow: 3ha of Romorantin, 9ha of white grapes varieties (7 Sauvignon and 2 Chardonnay) and 8ha of red grapes varieties (4 Pinot Noir, 3 Gamay, 0.5 Malbec - also called Cot in Loire Valley and 0.5 Cabernet Sauvignon- for Rosé). The vines are from 3 to 100 years old. Each year, they replant new vineyards to increase vineyard’s superficy and to replace some old parcels. The oldest parcel is a small (0,5ha) piece of land of Romorantin, which was planted in 1905. They also have an old parcel of Sauvignon (about 60 years old) and old Chardonnay (40 years old). Red vines are younger because they had to replant higher quality varieties. During harvest, old and young vines’ grape varieties are respectively vinified and aged separately. The final blends usually occur just before bottling the different wines.

Vinification: Issued from their best vineyards in Cheverny, and Cour-Cheverny, Domaine de Montcy also applies rigorous parcel selections of their vineyards and hand harvest with successive sortings to pick the grapes at ideal fruit ripeness and phenolic maturity. Under "culture raisonnée" (or sustainable culture), the vinification and ageing processes are natural and particularly adapted to each batch of grapes, with indigenous yeast and no use of any industrial yeasts or enzymes. Hygiene conditions are maximal in the cellar, which allow for minimum use of SO2 (Sulfur Dioxide) and fuller flavor expressions. Domaine de Montcy uses all the grape varieties allowed by the Appellations rules: Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Arbois for the whites and Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Pinot Noir and cot for the Reds.


Main products:

2008 Domaine de Montcy Cheverny Blanc Tradition Loire Valley

Made from 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Chardonnay from vines planted on Clay-Siliceous soils (blend may change depending on the vintage and quality of the grapes, i.e. 2007 was 85% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Chardonnay. This goes for all the wines.).

After careful selection during the harvest and gentle pressing for 4 hours at very low pressure to extract only the best aromas, the musts deposited sediment for 48hours in underground tanks at 8°C and were protected against oxygen by carbon dioxide. The fermentation occurred naturally without any addition of yeasts or enzymes to allow maximum expression of the Terroir of origin, and with minimal use of SO2. The musts were pumped with finest lees in tanks and alcoholic fermentation started with natural yeast when temperature reached 16°C. Then, fermentation temperature was kept between 16 and 18°C to preserve aromas. Because of natural yeasts this fermentation can last from 1 week to 3 months. Once the alcoholic fermentation is finish, the wines are pumped into different tanks, with no addition of sulphites at this stage. Depending on the vintage and the desired final style, the malolactic fermentations are usually made on the Chardonnay and on 50% of Sauvignon with natural bacteria. The wines rest for 6 months on fine lees in their tanks. Sauvignon and Chardonnay are usually blended in April and bottled with low quantity of sulphites (30mg/L).

Produced in stainless steel tanks where it spends about 6 months on its lees before bottling, this white Cheverny wine combines the elegance and complexity of Cheverny’s Terroir. Behind its pale yellow-gold color, the nose is floral with white fruit aromas. The palate is clean, dry and generous, well rounded and complex with refreshing acidity. The lingering finish is balanced and inviting. Great as an aperitif, it will pair well with white fish and goat cheese. Serve it cool but not too cold. Drink it now or keep it for the next 2-3 years.

2008 Domaine de Montcy Cheverny Rouge Tradition Loire Valley

Made from 65% Gamay, 30% Pinot noir and 5% Côt from vines planted on Clay-Siliceous soils (blend may change depending on the vintage and quality of the grapes, i.e. 2007 was 62% Gamay, 31% Pinot Noir and 7% Côt. This goes for all the wines.).

After careful selection during the harvest and gentle pressing, the fermentation occurs naturally without any addition of yeasts or enzymes to allow maximum expression of the Terroir of origin, and with minimal use of SO2. Produced in stainless steel tanks where it spends a few months on its lees before bottling, this red Cheverny wine combines the character and complexity of Cheverny’s Terroir.

Pinot Noir can be vinified in two ways: half with Cold pre-fermenting fermentation and half with hot temperature fermentation. For the first way, grapes are kept at 8°C for 8 days with many pumping over to extract a lot of cherry tastes and a nice red color. Then alcoholic fermentation occurred very quickly (about 5 days) at 25°C. For the second way, temperatures were increased up to 30°C at the beginning and pumped-over were made during the alcoholic fermentation in order to extract tannins. A third of the grapes were put entirely into the tank to extract tannins from the grapes. Gamay is usually vinified at medium temperature between 25 and 27°C and maceration can last about 8 days. The amount of pump-over, which was important at the beginning of the fermentation slowly, decreases to avoid the extraction of too many types of tannin. Côt is fermented for only 5 days to keep tannins soft and color on a dark pink. After alcoholic fermentation, each grape variety underwent malolactic fermentation in separated tank and was aged separately for 12 months. The final wine is usually bottled in September with low sulphites (28 mg/L).

Red garnet color, the nose is intense with red fruits and berries and slight spicy notes. The palate is expressive with great red fruit intensity. The finish is quite generous, vivid and balanced with silky integrated tannins that characterize well the Terroir of Cheverny. Perfect with grilled chicken and appetizers, like the white and served slightly chilled, it is also delightful with fish (especially if prepared with diced tomatoes and capers). Drink it now or keep it for the next 3-4 years.

2008 Domaine de Montcy Cheverny Rosé Loire Valley

Made from 60% Gamay, 23% Pinot noir and 17% Cabernet Franc from vines planted on Clay-Siliceous soils. After careful selection during the harvest and gentle pressing, the fermentation occurs naturally without any addition of yeasts or enzymes to allow maximum expression of the Terroir of origin, and with minimal use of SO2. Produced in stainless steel tanks, this Cheverny Rosé was crafted not by Saignée but from direct pressing which confered to this wine all the character of the vintage.

Bright Pink rosé hue with slightly orange reflects, the nose is vivid and very expressive, marked with raspberry notes. The palate is crisp and refreshing with mixed berry fruit flavors lifted by an enhancing acidity. The finish is supple and friendly. Thirst quencher as an aperitif, it is ideal with steamed fish, salad and barbecue. Drink it within 2 years maximum after bottling.

2008 Domaine de Montcy Cuvée “Clos des Cendres” Cheverny Blanc Loire Valley

Made from 50-50% old vines Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay planted on siliceous soils with yellow clay and flint stones. After careful selection during the harvest and gentle pressing, the fermentation occurs naturally without any addition of yeasts or enzymes to allow maximum expression of the Terroir of origin, and with minimal use of SO2. Produced in stainless steel tanks where it spends a few months on its lees before bottling, this white Cheverny wine combines the elegance and complexity of Cheverny’s Terroir with the structure and characteristics of the old vines.

Yellow color with golden reflects, the nose is gentle and discreet with acacia and mineral notes. The palate is rich yet elegant, balanced and beautifully structured with enhancing minerality. The lingering finish is ample and round marked by the Chardonnay. Pair it with crabs, lobster, oysters, fish in sauce and white meat but also with various cheeses. Better decanted, it will need a bit of air to fully express its complexity. Drink it now or keep it for another 4-5 years.

2006 Domaine de Montcy Cuvée “Louis de la Saussaye” Cherverny Red Loire Valley

Made from 65% Pinot Noir, 20% Gamay and 15% Côt planted on Calcareous-Clay soils. After careful selection during the harvest and gentle pressing, the fermentation occurs naturally without any addition of yeasts or enzymes to allow maximum expression of the Terroir of origin, and with minimal use of SO2. Produced in stainless steel tanks where it spends a few months on its lees before bottling, this red Cheverny wine combines the elegance and complexity of the calcareous Terroir with the structure and characteristics of the old vines.

Bright ruby red color, the nose is quite intense with spicy red cherry aromas typical of Pinot noir, expanding gently with more red fruits and pepper. The palate is balanced, elegant and racy, with ripe red fruits flavors structured by silky tannins and enhancing acidity. The lingering finish is underlined by the presence of the tannins from the Côt grape. It is an elegant and silky red wine of great profile to pair with earthy dishes like game and venison. Drink it now, decant it for better result or keep it for another 5-7 years.

2007 Domaine de Montcy Cour-Cheverny La Porte Dorée Loire Valley

Coming from the village next door, literally a stone’s throw north of Cheverny, this Cour-Cheverny was crafted with 100% Romorantin, a characteristic white grape indigenous to this particular area of the Loire Valley and named after the eponymous village of Romorantin, located about 30 kilometers south of Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny.

For the 2007 Cour-Cheverny, the Romorantin grapes were pressed entirely and musts deposited its sediments for 72 hours in underground tanks at 8°C, where they were protected against oxygen by carbon dioxide. Alcoholic fermentation started with natural yeasts between 18°C and 20°C. Malolactic fermentations were made on 50% of the wine, which then rested for 12 months on its fine lees in tanks. To mingle the lees, pump over were made with oxygen to stabilize the wine against oxidation. Cour Cheverny 2007 was bottled in September 2008 with low sulphites (34mg/L) and was kept for 6 months before release because this wine needed time to settle down to be ready to drink.

Clear, pale, medium intensity, yellow color with golden reflects. Quite characteristic of the Romorantin grape, the nose is fresh, floral, mineral and nutty, with notes of quince, litchi, eucalyptus, bee wax, honeysuckle, fresh almond and freshly cut yellow hay. The palate is clean, medium to full intensity, fresh, gentle and very well rounded immediately from the attack. The expanding and extensive mid-palate follows with the same round, focus, balanced, and nicely coating attitude, complemented by a great citrus, vivid acidity (yet, it remains soft and silky in a waxy way). Nutty flavors, with a predominance of fresh almond and apricot's skin and seed. The zesty acidity keep this wine in line from being flabby and transport the fruit gently through the lingering finish. At the same time pleasing and intriguing, this excellent Romorantin based wine should interest the adventurous amateurs and connoisseurs, in quest of something different.

In conclusion, a small family run Domaine producing natural wines characteristic of their Terroir of origin, vinified the organic way with minimal intervention, no fining, no filtration and barely any use of any preservative like Oxygen or SO2, and no addition of yeasts or enzymes. In short great wines from really healthy vines, produced by nature and environment oriented people who just want to craft the best of their Domaine has to offer.

For more info and latest news, go to Laura's blog at terralaura.viabloga.com

Enjoy!

Most info taken from my previous post on Domaine de Montcy (www.ledomduvin.com/2009/07/2007-domaine-de-montcy-cour-cheverny.html) and also from various documents sent to me by Laura herself to produce the Domaine's technical data sheet for Savio Soares portfolio.

LeDom du Vin

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines (and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability.

2008 Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina & 2009 Feudi di San Gregorio Ros'Aura Rosato Campania Italy

Feudi di San Gregorio Campania Italy

Established by Ercolino and wife Mirella Capaldo in 1986, Feudi di San Gregorio is located in the tiny village of Sorbo Serpico in Campania’s Irpinia region.

Along with the expert guidance of consulting enologist Riccardo Cotarella, one of Italy’s most esteemed winemaking talents who has been helping them since 1999, in little less than 20 years, Feudi di San Gregorio has emerged into the international limelight as a great success story in a region that, for many years, was cloistered in its traditions and consequently locked in a virtual winemaking holding pattern. They started planting in the mid 80’s and were marketing their wines by the early 90’s, with a philosophy to produce high quality wines from the historic indigenous grapes of Southern Italy.

Feudi di San Gregorio has aggressively tapped into the enormous potential of Campania's unique terroir and ancient varietals by placing a thoroughly modern spin on indigenous grapes such as Fiano di Avellino, Greco di Tufo and Aglianico. Named "Wine Producer of the Year" at the 2002 Italian Wine Oscars (organized each year by the Association of Italian Sommeliers), Ercolino certainly shows no sign of slowing any time soon.

Facing the Tyrrhenian Sea and representing one of the finest coastlines of Italy anciently favored by the Romans, Campania is a fascinating region, essentially mountainous, with irregular “massifs” and gentle hills divided here and there by plains and fertile valleys. On the horizon line of the Gulfs of Naples and Salerno, one can admire marvelous and enchanting islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida.

Naples is the region’s capital, which homes to the world-renowned Amalfi Coast, the ancient tragic city of Pompeii, and the romantic Isle of Capri. The region was deeply affected by the Phylloxera, and it wasn’t until the 90’s, later than the rest of Italy, that Campania experienced a wine renaissance and took in consideration modern technology and equipment.

Feudi di San Gregorio sources its grapes from the finest vineyards set in the rolling hills of the Irpinia region, located in close proximity to Mount Vesuvius. The volcano's legendary eruptions have laden the sandstone and marl soil with mineral-rich deposits of volcanic ash, forming a unique composition of soils rich in elements that nourish the vines. Feudi di San Gregorio produces a wide array of great wines from most appellations in Campania, mostly made with Falanghina, Greco di Tufo and Aglianico.

Being originally brought there by the Greeks, together with Aglianico and Greco, Falanghina is one of Italy’s oldest white grape varieties. It has consequently had time to adapt to southern Italy viticultural conditions. Complemented with the volcanic-rich soil of Campania, it is no wonder that this variety is an elegant and distinctive reflection of its terroir. For the past 10 years, Falanghina has become the region’s fastest spreading white variety.

Always very consistent and pleasing Feudi di San gregorio is a very reliable brand that has received many acolades and recognitions from the critics and the press.




2008 Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina Campania Italy
Suggested retail price $14-$17
Imported by Palm Bay in NYC

Feudi’s Falanghina comes from 20 years old vines, grown with southwestern and southeastern exposure on a bed of clay and sandstone with gravel, planted on a cluster of hillside vineyards at altitudes between 1,000 to 1,300 feet.

Harvested two to three weeks later than most surrounding producers, the Falanghina grapes are transported in refrigerated trucks to the cellar to prevent untimely spontaneous fermentation. The hand-harvested bunches are individually selected and sorted to discard the bad ones, then soft pressed and cold-fermented entirely in stainless steel. Only the first-press juice is put in the bottle.

Vintage after vintage, Feudi’s Falanghina always captures the pure, complex, unadulterated expression of the fruit, resulting in really enjoyable, expressive wines. The 2008 vintage is no exception to the rule.

Behind its pale lemon yellow color with a golden reflects on the rim, it offers a complex nose of honey, pineapple, banana, quince and pear, loaded with minerals. Medium bodied, yet nicely coating the palate giving an impression of richness and fullness, this wine is, supple, lush and lifted by beautiful acidity complemented by the minerality. Overall, it a nice, refreshing white with zesty acidity keeping the wine balanced. A spicy, honeyed minerality lingers on the finish.

Serve as an aperitif or as a complement to any seafood, fish in sauce, risotto, and grilled vegetables.



A few days ago I also tried 2009 Feudi di San Ros’Aura, a rosé wine made from Aglianico grapes which was quite stunning and that I highly recommend.



2009 Feudi di San Gregorio Ros’Aura Rosato Campania Italy
Suggested retail price $11-$14
Imported by Palm Bay in NYC

This wine was made from 100% hand-harvested Aglianico grapes coming from10-20 year old vines grown between at 1,000 - 1,650 ft above sea level around the communes of Taurasi, Pietradefusi, Castelvetere and Paternopoli in Campania. Planted in deep soil with moderately large grains originally from ash and fallen pumice. After de-stemming, free-run juice underwent a 12-hour maceration on the skins followed by a temperature controlled fermentation stainless steel tanks.

The 2009 Feudi di San Gregorio Ros'Aura Rosato was a revelation and a very enjoyable surprise, surely one of the most inspiring Rosé(s) I tried this year so far. It has an attractive, intense and fairly deep colorful rose color. The nose is inviting with ripe, candied wild red berries and cherry fruits intermingled with earthy and mineral notes. The palate is medium bodied with great minerality enhanced by fresh and lively acidity with notes of freshly crushed wild berries on the lingering finish. Great on its own, it will be perfect as an aperitif and delicious with chicken and turkey entrées, fish and grilled vegetables.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from the importer website at www.palmbay.com

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Marc Hébrart Brut Rosé 1er Cru Champagne Vallée de la Marne France

Before writing about Marc Hébrart, I like to talk again about Champagne:

Champagne

Champagne is a small sparkling wine region located approximately 140-150 kilometers east of Paris, predominantly surrounding the town of Reims, the Champagne capital, and expanding partly east toward the town of Chateau Thierry and partly south toward the town of Ay and Epernay, the little village Vertus and further south to the town of Troyes.

Champagne is roughly divided in 5 main regions (see my previous post on "Champagne and other sparkling wines" for more info), including the 3 main ones located in the Marne district:

• Montagne de Reims roughly forming a "U" shape toward the south around the town of Reims where some of the best Pinot Noir vineyards can be found.
  

• Vallée de la Marne extending from east to west and following the Marne River between the town of Epernay and the western part of Chateau Thierry, where some of the best Pinot Meunier vineyards are planted.

• Côte des Blancs starting from Epernay and going down south toward Vertus, home of the best Chardonnay grapes.
  

Champagne is a sparkling wine produced by inducing, after the 1st fermentation alcoholic, a second fermentation in the bottle by an addition of yeast and sugar, creating some carbon dioxide which can't escape from the bottle, thus creating carbonation: bubbles.

In a few steps, here is the explanation of the various phases of the "Méthode Champenoise" (also known as Méthode Traditionnelle"):

• Pressing (a.k.a. Pressurage): right after harvest the 3 Champagne's grapes (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) are gently pressed. Depending on the Champagne house, the pressing of the grapes can be different, but on average 4000kg of grapes will result in about 2550L use to produce quality Champagne (2050L of Cuvée - tête de Cuvée and Cuvée de Reserve - and 500 of Taille) the remaining liters left over from the pressing will be use for distillation and production of Marc de Champagne. Roughly, it takes about 1.2 kg of grapes to produce a 750cl bottle of Champagne.
  

• Alcoholic fermentation: the fist steps in the production of Champagne are very similar (or should I say identical) to white wine. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier's grapes are gently pressed then fermented, usually separately, but sometime together, depending on the producer's style, need or intuition depending on the vintage. Like for white wine, the conversion of natural sugar (contained in the grapes) into alcohol usually occurs because of natural (and sometime added) yeasts, the grape juice turns then into still white wine. The malolactic fermentation is not always used and especially not if the natural acidity of the grape juice is low. Before assembling the wines, the wines are usually "refrigerated", technically the temperature is lowered is the stainless steel tanks, to provoke the "Acid Tartaric Precipitation", and this way avoiding the formation of tartaric crystals in the bottle when put in the fridge just before consumption.
  

• Assembling the wines: as you may already know, most Champagnes (except the "Millésimé" better known as "vintage") are Non-Vintage (NV) and mostly "Brut" (dry), for the simple and understanding reason that they are made from wines of different vintages. For those of you who do not understand what I'm trying to say, let me explain: in order to respect the consistency, taste, balance, characteristic and style of their Champagnes (NV), vintage after vintage, and more especially year after year, the different Houses of Champagne have their own blend made with, predominantly, the gape juice of the latest harvest completed after ageing and disgorgement, with a touch of the "Cuvée de Réserve" or "Reserve" during the Dosage phase, usually a wine from the recent past years.

• More over, the blend between Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier may vary in quantity depending of the vintage and the desired style (Rosé, Blanc de Blancs, Blanc de Noirs, etc...) but also in quality depending on the provenance of the grapes, especially for the Houses of Champagne that traditionally continue to buy their grapes with the local growers located either in the Grand Cru vineyards (usually the best, selling their grapes from a higher price and considered 100%) or the 1er Cru vineyards (although, considered 99%, supposedly lower in quality with less expensive price for the kilo of grape, yet still excellent). Which explains why a bottle of Krug or Salon or Gosset or Bollinger or Billecart Salmon or Ayala or , in the case of this post, Marc Hebrart "Brut Non Vintage" taste pretty much the same year after year.
  

• In Champagne, being a Champagne maker and expert blender, like Richard Geoffroy at Dom Perignon, is not an easy task and requires refined blending skills and an accurate, very consistent palate, because, for the reasons cited above, different wines from different grapes and different areas and Terroirs are blended together to obtain a consistent Champagne that need to have the same taste, style, quality and characteristics year after year (that is also the best way for the Champagne Houses to keep their identity, their reputation and more importantly their consumers: because, even if sometime, consumers may try different Champagnes, other than the one that they like to drink the most, for different reasons, at some point, they will always come back to the one that correspond the most to their style, their envy and more especially their palate).

• Bottling and secondary fermentation (also called "Tirage" phase): usually happening in January, after the first alcoholic fermentation and the assembling, the desired assembled (or blended) wines are bottled with an addition of yeasts and sugar (also known as "Liqueur de Tirage"), slowly starting a second alcoholic fermentation in the bottle and creating some carbon dioxide which can't escape and dissolves in the bottle, thus creating carbonation: bubbles (also known as "Prise de Mousse"). The fermenting wine must remain by Champagne's law a minimum of 1,5 year in the bottle before disgorgement. Some Champagne House, depending on the desired style and taste, left the obtained Champagne for longer on its lees and yeast residues which confer roundness, viscosity and somewhat richness to the final product. The Champagne bottles slowly fermenting are closed (or sealed) with a beer-like metal capsule and a plastic "Bidule" (small plastic recipient placed against the capsule inside the neck of the bottle) to collect the lees and yeast residues and to facilitate the disgorgement.
  

• Maturation: Champagne are usually stored on wood standing "Palette" or rotating palette located in the multiple corridors carved in Champagne's famous chalky soils, creating kilometers of labyrinth and cavities where the Champagne can mature and age in perfect conditions. Traditionally, the bottles are stored horizontally to start with, on standing palettes made of wood, then they are manually, consistently, carefully and gently rotated a few times a day by skilled "rotaters" (skilled bottle rotating people, usually the cellar master and his assistant) and in the mean time gently and gradually inclined to gather the yeasts and lees residues toward the neck of the bottle.
  

• By the end of the maturation process, after a minimum of 1,5 year for non vintage and 3 years for "Millésimé", the bottles are usually up-side-down and the residues form a layer of about less than 1 inch against the capsule (in the "Bidule"). Technology has evolved and production, cost and demand eventually triggered the birth and the need for "rotating palettes", machines which rotate the bottles instead of men, often used for faster results in generic champagnes from big brands and other quantity Champagne Houses and lower quality sparkling wines production. Although, the difference in quality hasn't really been proven, the nostalgic and more traditional way of storing the bottles on wooden palettes in the dark, moist chalk cellars for 2-3 years remains the method of choice in most classic Champagne houses.

• Disgorgement (or Dégorgement): Once the bottles have mature to ideal time (depending on the Champagne house between 1,5 to 3 years and more) and are also inclined enough to have all the lees and yeast residues in the neck of the bottle, against the capsule, the Cellar master can proceed to the Disgorgement (or Dégorgement). Before 1816, Champagnes were made following the original method, also called Méthode Ancestrale (which by the way still exist and still in use for certain style of sparkling drinks in certain countries), and were cloudy because disgorgement, a method invented by Madame Clicquot, didn't exist.

• The old method of disgorgement (also called "Dégorgement à la volée") consisted for the cellar master and champagne maker to quickly yet carefully and skillfully manually open, with a special tool, every single bottle (one after another) and thus evacuate (with the pressure contained in the bottle) the unwanted lees and yeasts residues accumulated in the neck of the bottles. Although very efficient, this method was somewhat imprecise due to the amount of Champagne lost and the additional "Liqueur de Dosage" varied from bottle to bottle, allowing a certain inconsistency yet nothing really major, but at that time some bottle may surely have been better than other (or at least tasted slightly different).
  

• The new method, brought by researches, experiences and new technology, is roughly the same and consists to plunge the neck of the bottles in a liquid (called Brine) that will freeze the lees and yeasts residues. The formed plug of ice containing the lees and yeasts residues is then removed, also by pressure, without losing much Champagne (at least, less than the previous method). Once opened after disgorgement, the bottles need to be immediately closed after the addition of the "Liqueur d'expedition" during the Dosage phase.
  

• Dosage: immediately after disgorgement, in order to refill the bottles and especially close the bottles to avoid oxidation, keep consistency and quality, and determine (or obtain) the desired style, a "Liqueur d'Expedition" (a blend of sugar and vine) is added, also because all the residual sugars have been consumed during both fermentations and the Champagne taste will not be as pleasant without this addition of sugar. The amount of "Liqueur d'Expedition" varies depending on the final, desired style and taste and will determine the "Dosage" of the final produce: e.i. a Champagne "Brut" will contain less sugar than a "Demi-sec" or "Extra-Dry" (yes, I know it is confusing, but it is how the British defined it at first and it stayed with tradition, "Extra-Dry" should be dryer but for Champagne it is the opposite, it is sweeter...go figure).

• Corked: right after the Dosage phase (addition of the "Liqueur d'Expedition"), the bottle are securely corked with a "Muselet" (or cage) to avoid accidents. The quality of the cork is essential to maintain the quality of the Champagne. The final products will then rest for a certain period of time (depending on the Champagne House) before release.

For more info about RM, NM, etc...and the other different types of Champagne houses, read my previous post on Champagne and other sparklings.


FYI: By the way, the Champagne cork, the form of the Champagne bottles and the chalky naturally temperature controlled underground cellars were also developed around Dom Perignon's time, during the 17th and 18th century when the monk of the Champagne area discovered (or re-discovered depending on the source) roughly everything at the same time and were forced to find a solution: basically, during the second fermentation not appropriate and not well attached corks were flying all over and bottles were exploding due to the pressure but also due to external temperature too, eventually after multiple attempts and experimentation, the right bottle shape and the right cork were found and used. The natural and constant cool temperature of the human carved chalky cave underground constituted the perfect maturing place for Champagne and sparkling wines in general (but still wines too, take for example the cellars of Saint-Emilion). As a matter of fact, like in Bordeaux, most Champagne houses were built with rectangular sculpted chalky stones carved out directly from these caves.

Moreover, the traditional Champagne method, also called "Méthode Champenoise", is known since the 17th century. Although he didn't really discover it but yet was a quality pioneer in sparkling wine who developed it and somewhat perfected it, this method was attributed to "Dom Perignon" a Benedictine monk from the "Abbaye de Hautvillers" (north of Epernay). In fact the British were the first to study, understand and appreciate the desirable and attractive trait of Champagne and its bubbles.

Champagne is produced exclusively within the Champagne region of France, from which it takes its name. And because of now established international treaty, national law and quality-control/consumer protection related to local Champagne regulations, the name of "Champagne" can only be used for the wines produced in the Champagne appellation. In Europe, this principle is enshrined in the European Union by Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status. Other countries, such as the United States, have recognized the exclusive nature of this name, yet maintain a legal structure that allows longtime domestic producers of sparkling wine to continue to use the name in certain circumstances. But otherwise, it is forbidden to call a sparkling wine produced else where than Champagne to be called "Champagne". In France, sparkling from other regions may be referred as "Mousseux" or "Crémant" or "Pétillant" (depending on the method). Other sparkling wines from other countries may mention on the label "Méthode Traditionnelle", or Traditional Method, or if the method is different, one may read "Méthode Charmat" (Charmat process or method), "Méthode Ancestrale" (ancestral method), "Spumante", "Frizzante", or even "Sekt".

In fact, it is still possible to find, in the US market, wines bearing the names of famous Appellations because during the early 1930's, most of the French wine regions' names were not well protected. Names like "Chablis" and "Burgundy" from California, for example, have absolutely nothing to do with the original names or appellations. Despite the fact of bringing more regulations about what it is possible to do or not to do for producers and growers within the limits of an appellation, the INAO ("Institut National des Appellations d'Origine") and the AOC ("Appellation d'Origine Controlée") were created in 1935 to defend and protect the name of the different Appellations and their wines against fraud and counterfeit, and especially to limit the used of them.

Champagne is a festive, bubbly, fresh and delicate drink suitable for any occasion and celebration: birthdays, weddings, communions, births, new contracts, new jobs, leaving a job or a place, complementing a brunch, a lunch or a dinner, etc... Champagne is a great treat, versatile and airy, it will surely sparkle your mind and your mood.


However, after this long article about Champagne, let's get back to our Champagne of the day:

Marc Hébrart Vallée de la Marne Champagne France

Marc Hébrart is a fairly new, exciting producer from the Vallée de la Marne, producing really enjoyable Champagnes from about 12.5 hectares of vineyards planted on chalky, limestone soils with mostly 75% of Pinot Noir in the great 1er Cru vineyards of the villages of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Avenay-Val-d’Or and Bisseuil, complemented by 25% of Chardonnay from the Grand Crus Chouilly and Oiry in the Côte des Blancs. Marc Hébrart winery is located in the underrated village of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, a 99% villages considered 1er Cru and home of another one of my Champagne Rosé: Billecart-Salmon.

Jean-Paul Hébrart, the current owner and winemaker, somewhat inherited of the property from his parents, Marc Hébrart and his wife, who started making Champagne in 1963. Due to the high price of the land in Champagne, they slowly and gradually bought and planted more vineyards. In 1983, their son, Jean-Paul started is own little production. In 1997, to keep and secure the lands within the family, Jean-Paul and his parents created a company (E.A.R.L Champagne Hébrart) by merging the two enterprises together, subsequently Jean-Paul became the director of this little family run company. Marc Hébrart Champagne is a Récoltant-Manipulant (RM), meaning that the Champagne house owns its own vineyards and produces Champagnes only with their own grapes and do not buy any grapes from other growers.

Jean-Paul Hébrart is somewhat a purist and a traditionalist, who prefers applying natural methods in the cellar but also to the soils and vineyards rather than using unnatural products like pesticides, herbicides, etc.. Hand selected and harvested grapes, Bucher pressing, fermentation in "petite cuvée", malolactic and hand remuage. Hébrart represents a departure from the other producers in this portfolio, for Jean-Paul’s wines marry the top Pinot Noir sites of the Vallée de la Marne with Grand Cru Chardonnay sites in the Côte des Blancs. From Skurnik point of view, Hébrart is more similar to the philosophy of Gimonnet than to that of Larmandier-Bernier, for the connoisseurs who also know these two producers. Hébrart’s wines are buoyant and lithe with deft integrations of minerality and juicy fruit, with excellent balance, acidity and length.



NV Marc Hebrart Brut Rosé 1er Cru Champagne Vallée de la Marne France
Suggested retail price $41-$45
Imported / Distributed by Michael Skurnik wines

Disgorged in December 2007; it was made with wines from the excellent 2005 vintage, completed with the still Mareuil red (10%) coming from 2004 vintage. The base is half-half Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and all the Chardonnay come from Grand Cru vineyards. 2005 is one loveable vintage, offering both-solid-and-ethereal wines, with great clinging fruit and a silvery aurora of chalk that almost sizzles on the brilliant finish.

Over the last 2-3 years, I tasted Marc Hébrart Rosé in many occasions and it rapidly became one of the favorite "Champagne Rosé" of my wife and I, with Billecart-Salmon Rosé and Laurent-Perrier Rosé. The last time was for the 3rd birthday of my son last week-end, and once again, it was a wonderful experience.

NV Marc Hebrart Brut Rosé 1er Cru Champagne has a light, pale salmon, pink color with captivating reflects and is already pleasing to observe in the glass. The nose is fresh, clean, delicate, mineral, floral and inviting. The palate is quite impressive, somewhat light, delicate and almost fragile in the attack yet expanding nicely in the middle palate with light raspberry and vivid red berry flavors complemented by rose petal, floral notes and lifted by a great, racy acidity. The lingering finish is quite dry with dry red cherry and raspberry notes. Overall, it is a well crafted, very feminine Champagne with a complex and seductive yet friendly and approachable attitude. I loved it everytime I tasted it, and this last time was no exception. Highly recommended for the lighter, less rich and yeasty, yet sophisticated and balanced Champagne's lovers.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

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2007 Proprieta Sperino Rosa del Rosa Coste della Sesia Rosato

2007 Proprieta Sperino Rosa del Rosa Coste della Sesia DOC Rosato - Vigneti di Marchi - Lessona - Piedmont, Italy

Suggested retail price $15-$18

Distributed by Petit Pois Corp. /Sussex Wine Merchants in NYC


The Coste della Sesia DOC (roughly translated Slopes of the Sesia) is a relatively small, unknown DOC and hilly region, nestled alongside the up-and-rising Lessona DOC and near the more established Ghemme and Gattinara DOCG, in the foothills of the northeastern part of Piedmont facing Switzerland (west of Novara).

The name comes from the river Sesia, a tributary of the Po, which finds its source in the glaciers of Monte Rosa at the Swiss-Italian border. Emerging slowly, this appellation received the DOC status in 1996, allowing a tiny group of producers to better craft and promote their wines.

The DOC is mainly planted with Nebbiolo, also locally called Spanna, Vespolina and Croatina grape varieties and a touch of Barbera, producing great reds and rosés. The whites are mostly made with the Erbaluce grape variety (85% minimum + other local grapes).

Paolo De Marchi, owner and manager of Isole e Olena, an estate acquired by the Di Marchi family in 1950, making wines like Cepparello in Chianti (Tuscany), has become one of Italy's most respected artisan winemakers and a force for positive changes in the Tuscan wine world. Although, Paolo found fame and recognition in Tuscany, his roots have always been in Piedmont, where he is from.

The De Marchi family inherited "Proprietà Sperino", located in the Lessona DOC region, in the middle of the 19th century and produced wine there until 1970. In 2000 Paolo, along with his son Luca, began reclaiming 25 acres of hillside vineyards by replanting Nebbiolo and the other indigenous varieties, Vespolina and Croatina. Both now manage the estate producing white, rose and red wines. Depending of the vintage, Rosa del Rosa is a tank fermented Rosé made from about 65-70% Nebbiolo, and roughly 20% Vespolina and completed with Croatina.

Surely because of the quality of the 2007 vintage in Piedmont, this 2007 Proprieta Sperino "Rosa del Rosa" Coste della Sesia Nebbiolo blend is a fine example of a great rosé from Piedmont. The robe exposes a superb and intriguing, clear, clear, bright, pale orange-salmon color. The nose is fresh, clean, mineral, fruity and floral at the same time with scent of wild red berry and rose petal. The palate is great with watermelon, cantaloupe and ripe peach flavors evolving into white, smooth juicy fruit with a vivid, pink grapefruit-like, citrus acidity in the mid-palate. The finish is fairly long, nice and dry. Overall, this wine is a tasty sipper with enhancing minerality and racy acidity. Somewhat different yet lovely and approachable. To discover this summer.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Step into the Green! Drink more Bio and Organic wines from sustainable culture and respect the environment!