Showing posts with label #fakewines. Show all posts
Showing posts with label #fakewines. Show all posts

Sunday, November 18, 2018

LeDomduVin: Counterfeit Wines - Questions Answered for a Thesis


Counterfeit Wines - Questions Answered for a Thesis



Thesis Bordeaux Grands Crus Illustration by ©LeDomduVin 2018



Recently, I was contacted via email by a student in the Master of Science in Wine Management at the Wine and Spirits Business School of Dijon. Her name is Manon Lledo, and in order to help her in her research work for her thesis, she asked for my help and knowledge to answer a few questions regarding the subject of her thesis, "e-commerce and counterfeiting risk(s) in China for Bordeaux Grands Crus". 

I obliged this young lady by answering her questions to the best of my knowledge and experience, without getting into too many details or deviating from the subject (as I usually do), based on my last seven years of experience working in Hong Kong and traveling to China monthly. Years that I also spent scrutinizing the market with numerous monthly market analyses, as well as inspecting and authenticating all the bottles that the company I work for purchases.

A few days after, I asked her if I could use this "interview" as a post on my blog, as, after all, I'm well involved in the subject of fake and counterfeit wines in my daily routine at work. I wanted to share that knowledge and my answers with you all (as I did previously in my previous posts about fake and counterfeit wines, read them here, here and/or here). 


Quai des Chartons (Painting at Millesima in Bordeaux City) - Photo courtesy of Schiller-Wine Blog


I have been in the wine business for the past 27 years, purchasing wines from all over the world, with a particular focus on Bordeaux and Burgundy, directly from the Châteaux and domaines, as well as from négociants and other sources. Although I have not held a "Wine Buyer" position since 2012, I have worked as a Sommelier and wine buyer for restaurants, as well as wine and spirits boutique retail stores, for 21 years, before taking on my current position as Wine Quality Control Director and Market Analyst six years ago. Therefore, although I may not have all the answers, I certainly have an educated opinion to offer in response to these questions.

Moreover, the company I work for mostly buys the top 250 wines in the world (70% Bordeaux, 20-25% Burgundy, and 5-10% of the rest of the world), with an increasing collection of more than 700,000 bottles with vintages going as far back as 1825. So there again, I may not have all the answers, but for the last 6 years, all cases and bottles we bought were inspected and/or authenticated by our Head of Purchasing and me. Hence, I can say with confidence that I have a certain experience and that I'm very acquainted with how to fish out fake and counterfeit bottles.


So here they are, her questions, my answers... 



Wine Buying Process with Pre- and Post-Purchase Inspections by ©LeDomduVin 2018


Where do you buy Bordeaux Grands Crus from?


1. For the younger vintages (and some old when available):

We buy directly from the Chateaux (when possible) and/or from the Négociants to ensure
  • Quality (wine directly from the source and never previously moved from the Chateaux or the Négociants' warehouses) 
  • Conditions (genuine unopened OWC if possible, and if opened, we make sure the capsule, label, level, color, sediment,s and overall bottle conditions are pristine) 
  • Provenance (traceability, direct from the source, bottling certificate, and other certificates when/if available) 
  • Storage conditions (Chateaux or Negociants warehouses only)
  • as well as to secure allocations and consolidate our relationship with the Chateaux and Négociants 


Wine Buying Process Visual with Pre- and Post- Purchase Inspections by ©LeDomduVin 2018 (extract 1)


2. For older vintages: 

Despite occasionally buying older vintages from "La Place de Bordeaux", we more often source our wines from various sources, including auction houses, private collectors, brokers, and occasionally retail. However, Quality Control inspections are conducted both pre-purchase and post-purchase to ensure the quantity, quality, and condition of the cases and bottles.

Pre-purchase investigation and inspection occur before buying or receiving goods (when allowed and/or possible), either physically when possible or via pictures (if the wines have been purchased in another country), and consist of checking and verifying.

  • Integrity and genuineness of the seller/distributor/retail/auction house/private collector
  • Provenance (traceability, info on previous owners, certificate if available, history of the bottle(s))
  • Authentication of the bottles by close and detailed inspection of the capsule, cork, level, label(s), bottle, color, sediments, and overall conditions based on the vintage and facts/knowledge about the wine
  • Rejection (if any) based on the results of the inspection/authentication of the cases/bottles
  • Final negotiation and buying selection based on the results of the inspection

Wine Buying Process Visual with Pre- and Post-Purchase Inspections by ©LeDomduVin 2018 (extract 2)


Post-purchase inspection occurs before or at goods reception (especially if Pre-Purchase Inspection has not been done before buying or receiving goods) to verify the goods.
  • Cases and/or bottles quantity, quality, and overall conditions 
  • Detailed inspection of the capsule, cork, level, label(s), bottle, color, and sediments, based on the vintage and facts/knowledge about the wine 
  • Authentication is needed when in doubt  
  • Incident report if seepage, leakage, and/or if the bottle and label conditions do not correspond to the descriptions stated in the catalog or via email, and/or the pictures seen before receiving and physically inspecting the goods 




LeDomduVin a.k.a. Dominique Noel doing a casual inspection of a bottle of Petrus 1969 - ©LeDomduVin 2018 


Have you ever been the victim of counterfeiting regarding Grands Crus? 


As we carefully verify the integrity and genuineness of all our suppliers and other sources, and as we conduct detailed inspections and authentications of all the bottles we purchase (both pre- and post-purchase), I don’t think so, but it's possible that it might have happened; you never know.

Despite my knowledge, experience, and ongoing learning in that field, it is sometimes challenging to distinguish between genuine and counterfeit products, as counterfeits are becoming increasingly difficult to spot. I take numerous notes and pictures during the various inspections and authentications of the bottles we purchase, which I keep as records. When in doubt, I systematically review these records to compare, verify, and confirm whether it is a genuine bottle or a counterfeit.

However, it has happened that, sometimes, I gave some bottles the benefit of the doubt as I couldn’t find any materials or enough details within my own records from the previous inspection(s) of the exact wine in the same vintage. In this specific case, I usually check the internet and do some research. It has happened that I have even emailed the winery with questions regarding details on labels, capsules, or the bottle, but I rarely received any answers.

I'm sure that, within our stocks, and more especially amongst the bottles bought from auctions and eventually from some private collectors, some might be counterfeits. Despite all the precautions we take and the inspections and authentications we conduct, this is a possibility.



LeDomduVin a.k.a. Dominique Noel doing a casual inspection of a bottle of Petrus 1961 - ©LeDomduVin 2018


The problem is how to prove it when sometimes you lack details in your own records, lack knowledge on a specific bottle, label, or vintage, cannot find anything on the internet, and even the Chateau is not responding to your emails? How can you do it? Unless you open the bottle and taste the wine, how can you do it? More especially when it's a bottle of Petrus (or DRC Romanée-Conti) at 30,000 HKD (3,350 Euros), how can you do it?

Consequently, I must admit that, unfortunately, for all the reasons cited above and despite all the procedures we have in place to prevent it, yes, we may have been the victim of counterfeiting. Yet, within the market of luxury goods, including the top wines of Bordeaux, counterfeits are nearly unavoidable.





The Top 9 most counterfeited Bordeaux Grands Crus Wines by ©LeDomduVin 2018 


Which are, according to you, the most counterfeited Bordeaux Grands Crus? 


The top 25 Bordeaux for sure, but more especially the top 10, and mostly for

  • the older vintages (from 1990 vintage and older) (e.g. Petrus 1961, Cheval Blanc 1947), 
  • the vintages with high scores (95 – 100) 
  • and/or the most expensive names/vintages 

But if we list them according to the counterfeit bottles I saw and/or inspected in my 27-year career, there are not many names or many vintages in fact, and a list of the most counterfeited Bordeaux Grands Crus wines could be reduced to:

  • Right bank: Petrus, Cheval Blanc, Lafleur (some also claim Le Pin, but, personally, I've never seen any fake Le Pin) 
  • Left Bank: Lafite, Mouton, Latour, Haut-Brion (some may say Margaux too, but, here again, personally, I've never seen a fake Margaux either) 



Petrus 1985 Label's comparison by © LeDomduVin 2018



Like all luxury goods, wine counterfeiting has always existed. Yet, over the last 15 to 20 years, it has become a very lucrative and growing business. Although some may be in the business of creating fake cheap wines (as it also a lucrative business), counterfeiters usually prefer to keep big and fast money in mind and have bigger aim than common mass-market wines, so counterfeiting mainly concerned the best Chateaux in their best vintages (in my opinion and from my experience). Those that are the most renowned and the most recognizable globally, and/or correspond to something in specific markets, like “Lafite” in China (where there is probably more wine than the Chateau ever produced...).

Understandably, it is logistically easier, more efficient, and less costly for a counterfeiter to produce just a few bottles of Petrus (or DRC) at 30,000 HKD (3,350 Euros) a bottle, than to produce a larger quantity of cheap wine at 300 HKD (33,5 Euros), for example.




LeDomduVin a.k.a. Dominique Noel doing a casual inspection of a bottle of Petrus 1969 - ©LeDomduVin 2018 


Do you buy wines online for your business?  


In general, no, but it has happened sometimes when looking for very specific wines in particular vintages, with barely or no availability on the market. In that case, if we buy from the UK or Switzerland, for example, we contact the online retailers directly and ask for high-resolution pictures of the good at different angles as well as some info about provenance, previous ownership, and conditions of storage, etc... before buying (or not) the particular wine.  

If the retailer cooperates, we may purchase the wine, depending on the overall condition of the bottle(s) and the information received (of course). Yet, not all online wine retailers are able or willing to cooperate by sending pictures and/or detailed information. In that specific case, we definitely do not buy the wine. 


If no: why? 


Top 6 Wine Websites For Market Prices Search by ©LeDomduVin 2018




We do research on Wine-Searcher and other websites (i.e., Liv-Ex, Cellar-Watch, Wine Market Journal, etc) to compare availability and prices, to do market analysis, and make buying decisions on offers and sales, but we rarely buy from online retailers for reasons such as
  • some online retailers may have a fake listing, meaning that you can see remaining quantity on Wine-Searcher and on their own website, but when you email them or phone them directly regarding that specific wine, they usually are "coincidentally" out of stock or they never had such items in their stock
  • storage conditions are not always known, ideal or adequate for the high-end wines
  • online retailers may not be cooperative in providing us with high-resolution pictures and info about  the wine prior to buying 

So, if not provided, unless the needed info is specifically stated on their website with clear and high definition pictures to check details, it is too difficult to check the provenance and bottle conditions, and therefore, we prefer not to buy.


Some online retailers/businesses may provide traceability proof + high def pictures on demand prior buying for you to check the goods prior making a buying decision, but it usually only happens if you are a good customer with "buying history" with them and if you have a trustable seller/buyer relationship with them; otherwise you are like anybody else, you place your order "blind", without being able to get details you need and may end up disappointed at good receiving.

Moreover, with online retailers, you are never really sure where the bottles are coming from and how and where they were stored previously. So, not only do you have no guarantee of the provenance, but also have no guarantee of the wine conditions. The high-end bottles you just bought may have been around the world 10 times already, and/or may be counterfeit. Who knows?




Boutique Wine Store or Online Wine Retailer? by © LeDomduVin 2018


Do you buy wines online for your private consumption? 


Yes, not frequently, but yes, sometimes...

If no: why? 


Not frequently, because unless I already know and like the wine, I prefer going to a store, looking around, reading the labels, and getting inspired in the moment. I worked as a Head Sommelier in restaurants and as a Store Manager/Wine Buyer for “cavistes” and boutique wine retail stores, so I have always been in close contact with the bottles. I like to take my time and be present within the store to look at and touch the bottles, hesitate, think, read another label, hesitate again, and then finally make a decision between two bottles, usually ending up buying both (or more). 

I’m kind of old school that way. I appreciate the convenience of buying online, but I prefer to shop around and go with my instincts in the moment, browsing the aisles and examining the bottles. In my opinion, there is something impersonal and sterile about buying online, probably due to the lack of direct contact with the product, as well as the inability to chat with the vendor to ask questions and request more details about the wine (which is just my preference).




Buying Wine Online: A Risk or Not? by ©LeDomduVin 2018 


Is there a higher risk of buying wines online? 


It depends, for mass-market wines, but for high-end wines and older vintages, I do think so. More especially in the Asian Markets, where for some reason I have seen over the last 5-6 years the number of top-tier wines in older vintages (the 30s, 40s, 50s, 60s, and even some from the late 1800s) increasing drastically. Are they fake or not? Or is it simply a coincidence? Not sure.... But it is funny to think that back 15-20 years ago, these wines were scarcely found and very rare, nearly unavailable on the market, and nowadays you can pretty much find them anywhere in the major markets (Hong Kong, Singapore, London, New York), and more especially at auctions.

I’m not sure what it means, either people kept these wines for decades and started to resell them recently due to the increased value (x12 for some Lafite over the last 15 years and don't even get me started with DRC...), or there is a very lucrative business for the counterfeiters on the grey and the black markets. One may think that maybe the example of Rudy Kurniawan would have deterred counterfeiters, but it does not seem to be the case.

If we take Lafite 1947 or Lafite 1961, for example, there are respectively 48 and 44 online wine merchants selling them on Wine-Searcher, and it makes me wonder…. Personally, I would not be surprised if half of them or more are actually fake (especially considering the huge price difference for 1961, for example), and/or have been circulated around the world numerous times already via private collectors and auctions, and may no longer be in good condition.

As stated previously above, unless I know well the online retailer and have previously done business with, and I have checked its integrity and background, and received high-resolution pictures and other needed details about the provenance, the previous owner, the conditions of storage, etc... I will seldom buy high-end wines online.






LeDomduVin a.k.a. Dominique Noel doing a casual inspection of a bottle of Petrus 1969 - ©LeDomduVin 2018 


How can you guarantee that the Grands Crus you buy are not counterfeit? 


When we buy directly at the source, either at the wineries or from a reputable and reliable Négociants, we ask for bottling certificate to be provided as well as bottle provenance and conditions (via various documents and pictures), more especially if the bottle(s) does not come from directly or previously from the Chateau.

We also conduct post-purchase inspection and authentication (if possible, before or at the time of receipt), to ensure that the bottles we purchased are in good condition and not counterfeit, and that they correspond to the documents and pictures previously received.

As stated above, when we buy from private collectors, auction houses and/or retails, we also do pre- (when possible) and/or post-purchase inspection and authentication (prior or at good receiving), to ensure the bottle we buy (or just bought) are not in bad conditions or fakes. In doubt, we investigate further. And if the doubt persists, we simply reject the bottle(s) and return them to the seller, receiving reimbursement for them.

Doing these pre- and post-purchase inspections are crucial, essential I should say, as they allow us to filter the bad bottles (bad conditions or fakes), as in turn when we resell them, we ought to be a reliable source for our clients and therefore guarantee that all of our bottles are in pristine conditions and definitely not fakes.

That is why we purchase mainly directly from the Châteaux or from the Négociants to obtain unopened, genuine OWC (Original Wooden Cases), usually sealed with the Châteaux or Négociants' Band, which offers a guarantee and security of the genuineness of the wines for our clients.

As the Wine Quality Control for the company I work for, I conduct all inspections and authentications of the bottles myself. This does not mean that I may not miss some fake or counterfeit bottles, but there is only a slight chance of that happening.




Major Difference  between Prices on Wine-Searcher 
may indicate unreliable/dishonest retailers
by ©LeDomduVin 2018 


Are there more reliable online websites than others?


Yes, of course, a simple study on Wine-Searcher can easily be done to check prices, availability, reliability, and integrity of the online websites, and expose at the same time the retailers that are more reliable than others.

Meaning that within the list of retailers for a particular wine, you may realize that (usually)
  • The retailers with the cheapest prices might do that to attract customers. Still, they do not have the product, and therefore might be dodgy (unreliable/dishonest), and thus should be avoided. Or they have it, but the bottle is in poor or bad conditions (capsule, label, cork, and/or even the wine inside). The bad thing about this is that it drives the "Wine-Searcher Average Market Price" lower for this particular wine, becoming an unreliable reference. 
  • The retailers with the highest prices might also do this to attract customers, or simply because they do not want to sell the product, so they put an over-exaggerated price to show that they have the product, but are not necessarily in a rush to sell it. Like for cheap prices, the bad thing about this is that it drives the "Wine-Searcher Average Market Price" higher for this particular wine, also becoming an unreliable reference.   

That is why "Wine-Searcher Average Market Prices" should always be taken with caution and not always for granted, especially for high-end wines.

Then, after all, it is a question of experience to differentiate the good from the bad ones, like with any other product. The good ones might be for you some online websites/retailers you may know already by experience, or because they are located nearby, or because they provide good services, or because of the reputation, or whatever else.

Like most people, you first conduct your research, compare options, and then determine the price you want to pay. Next, you place your order online and wait to receive the goods.
  • If it's okay at reception, then you might think that this particular online website is reliable and will probably order again.  
  • If not, then you will try to get reimbursed and go through all the difficulties one may encounter when ordering online. 
Personally, I prefer to call the online website or store and ask for more details to be provided before making my final buying decision. If cooperative, then I will have more reasons to trust them; if not, then I will take my business elsewhere (like anybody else, I guess...).


Which ones do you trust? 


Although there are a handful of online websites and retailers that I trust, it's a tricky question to answer, and it would not be fair for me to mention some of these online websites and retailers in this post without mentioning others that I may have missed among the ones we do business with.

All I can say is that it comes down to trust, integrity, reliability, the services provided, and the overall personal experience and relationship with the online merchants.




Where do most of the most expensive wines in the world come from? Map by © LeDomduVin 2018


Do you think there is a bigger risk of counterfeiting for Bordeaux or Burgundy Grands Crus? And Why? 


Simply put, the top 50 best and most expensive wines in the world mostly come from Bordeaux and Burgundy; counterfeiters are into money and the Luxury business, so why look anywhere else?

Big names in fashion, clothes, bags, and other luxury products have been counterfeited for decades as there is a huge market and demand for those, and it is the same for high-end wines (and even mass-market wines to a certain extent).

Look at the price of a 1945 DRC Romanee Conti, which recently fetched US$ 558,000 (roughly 490,445 Euros) at the last Sotheby’s Auction, for example… Well, I'm not saying anything, but I would not be surprised to see a few more bottles of this specific wine reappearing on the market very soon.

A total of 600 bottles were produced, and only 2 were sold during this auction, the rest of the bottles is believed to have either been consumed by now or be part of private collector’s collection, and yet there is already 1 bottle for sale on "Wine-Searcher" at a Belgium wine merchant (here). At the same time, there was none available before the Sotheby’s sale.  So, simple coincidence or resurgence?

The Global Market is unfortunately flooded with fake and counterfeit wines, and the recent drastic price increase of the last 4-5 years is not helping. High-end wines began as a commodity and then became accessible only to the wealthy. They evolved into Luxury products and became assets; they have been traded like a currency for the past two decades, and nowadays, the top 25 wine labels in particular vintages have become rare collectors' items and are no longer considered just wines but invaluable pieces of artwork, fetching never-heard-of stratospheric prices.

Consequently, yes, the higher the prices go, the higher the risk of counterfeiting the Bordeaux and Burgundy Grands Crus will be.....



Petrus 1985 Label's comparison by © LeDomduVin 2018


The labels comparison game


As a visual is worth a thousand words, and after looking at the various pictures above, let's play a little game to test your inspection skills, shall we?... Can you spot all the differences between these two labels of Petrus 1985 in the picture below? Same wine, same vintage, yet so many variations in between the two...... (you can write your results in the comments at the end of this post if you wish)...  And do you know why there are so many variations? (If you don't, ask me, and I'll tell you. Or maybe I should use this little exercise as the subject for one of my previous posts.)



Petrus 1985 Label's comparison by © LeDomduVin 2018



Petrus 1985 Label's comparison by © LeDomduVin 2018



Petrus 1985 Label's comparison by © LeDomduVin 2018







Et Voilà,

That's all for today, folks!!! But stay tuned for more posts coming soon... and let's wish Manon Lledo (the student who asked me these questions) good luck with her thesis, hoping that my answers will help her a little...

Santé! Cheers!

LeDomduVin a.k.a Dominique Noel


©LeDomduVin 2018


@ledomduvin, #ledomduvin, #wine, #vin, #vino, #wein, #oldvintages #bordeaux, #lesphotosadom, #burgundy, #winetalk, #counterfeit, #counterfeitwine #interview, #fakewines, #fake, #blackmarket, #greymarket,  #questionsansweredforathesis



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Thursday, August 9, 2018

LeDomduVin: Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1945


Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1945 - Upper Label "V" for Victory© LeDomduVin 2018

Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1945


Inspecting a Jeroboam of Mouton Rothschild 1945 ...

As the Wine Quality Control Director for the company I work for, an essential part of my job is to inspect and do the authentication of all the bottles we buy and sell (also checking provenance and suppliers reliability and integrity, as well as being responsible for the quantity and quality of the stock and storage's environment, conditions, and security of all the company's cellars and warehouses, and also doing Market Analysis, Stock Valuation, SOP, etc, etc...).

So, while doing regular monthly inventories in our warehouses, I also take the time to inspect some bottles and put to the test my authentication skills and knowledge.


Dominique Noël a.k.a. LeDomduVin Wine Inspection © LeDomduVin 2018


Although I cannot reveal all the details that differentiate a real bottle from a counterfeit one, as it will go against the deontological codes or ethics of my profession (and might also provide counterfeiters with intrinsic and useful details to produce better fake bottles), I still would like to share with you some of my bottle authentication knowledge and briefly establish the reason why I believe, for example, that this Jeroboam of Mouton Rothschild 1945 is genuine, and not a counterfeit. 


Starting from top to Bottom. 



1. The bottle


- The glass of the bottle is clearly old and its color is too (a bit difficult to see on these pictures as they were taken inside the warehouse, which explains the soft yellow lighting and the darkness of the bottle) 


Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1945 - The Bottle
© LeDomduVin 2018

- 1940s Mouton Rothschild bottles have broader shoulder than the base, and it is clear on the pictures (above and below) that the base is narrower than the upper side of the bottle

- The glass surface presents defaults and asperities with micro-bubbles trapped inside the glass, proof that this bottle has been handblown and not machine-made. 

- On the picture below, you can see a hand blowing default of the bottle. Do you see it? Yes, it is not an impression on the picture, the glass shape of the bottle is slightly incurved [ ) ] on the left side compared to the right side which is straight. [ | ]


Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1945 - The bottom of the bottle
© LeDomduVin 2018

- The punt is deep and thick, time-worn and presents no markings, compared to more recent bottles which present markings (either engraved or embossed or even embedded within the glass).  


Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1945 - The deep and thick punt of the bottle
© LeDomduVin 2018

Back in the mid-40s at the end of World War II, glass was not always easy to find, and therefore, at the time, old and used glass bottles of different colors were melted together, then handblown to make new bottles, which were slightly different in color than the usual color normally used for Bordeaux wine bottles prior (and even after) the War.     


2. The capsule

Old, corroded, wrinkled, time-worn and short (which was normal at that time compared to nowadays Bordeaux capsules, which are longer and usually covering the full length of the cork) with the correct color and correct markings.

Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1945 - Top of the Capsule
© LeDomduVin 2018


3. The cork

I did not cut the capsule for this specific bottle but it is very important when doing an authentication of a bottle to verify the cork size, color, defaults, markings, brand, font, vintage, wine absorption, etc... to make sure that it is genuine and/or verify if the bottle has been reconditioned (re-corked, refilled or topped up, etc...) and also make sure that it is not a fake one. 

That said when a bottle is as old and expensive as this one (Mouton 1945 goes for 35-40,000 Euros for a magnum (1.5L) - retail price -, so I let you imagine how much a Jeroboam (4.5L) could go for...), there is always an hesitation on taking the decision to cut the capsule to verify the cork, as it will slightly decrease the value of the bottle in case of reselling later on. 

If the capsule is slightly loose and you can uncap it from the bottle without damaging it, then it is usually better than cutting it. Yet, if the capsule is tight and you absolutely need to verify the cork, then you will have no other choice but to cut it.   

However, if you are sure to keep the bottle for your own consumption and/or have any doubt about the bottle, cutting the capsule to check the cork is definitely one of the best ways to check 

- the cork authenticity (real or not? old or new? correct or wrong markings like the vintage and/or the brand?) 

- as well as the state of the cork (wet or dry? wine absorption only at the bottom or completely soaked? still in one piece or crumbling? tartaric crystals or not? etc...)  

...and thus, in the meantime, while checking the cork, you can roughly assess the quality of the wine:

- if the cork is dry and slightly loose, for example, air may have affected the wine, which may be oxidized, gone, bad or even turned to vinegar in some case...

- if the cork is completely soaked, soft and crumbling, leakage may have occurred, and the wine may present the same problems as above... 


Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1945 - Side of the Capsule
© LeDomduVin 2018


4. The Label(s)

"In 1945, to commemorate the Allied victory, Baron Philippe de Rothschild had the idea of embellishing the Mouton Rothschild label with art-work: in this instance, a symbolic design intended to celebrate the return of peace. He commissioned this from a young unknown artist, Philippe Jullian (1921-1977). Having displayed early promise as a designer, he was to go on to become a successful dramatist. He submitted several drafts for the label: this one is based on the famous “V for Victory” that Churchill used throughout the war to rally the forces of freedom."


Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1945 - Upper Label "V" for Victory© LeDomduVin 2018

Mouton Rothschild 1945 label is divided into 2 distinctively different labels that are slightly apart from each other.

-  The upper one, on which the "V" represents "Victory" ("Victoire" in French), the ending of World War II, is obviously smaller in height but more particularly smaller in width by a few millimeters on both sides, as you can see on the picture below.

If you encounter a bottle of Mouton 1945 with the 2 labels attached and/or even detached but with the same width, then it is a fake bottle, a counterfeit that you should report, immediately if you can, to the Château, which will in turn investigate...

....but be ready to answer a few questions like: when and where did you buy it? from whom? a collector? at a wine auction? a retailer? a wholesaler? a distributor? Do you still have the contact details? How much did you pay for it? Do you still have the invoice? etc, etc...

All these details are important to trace the history and provenance of the bottle, in order to push the investigation further to retrieve its origin and, at some point, dig up the counterfeiter and put him/her where he/she belongs... behind bars.

It is said that 20-25% of the top 50 most expensive and top wines of the world on the market (mostly French wines from Bordeaux and more especially Burgundy) are actually fakes, extraordinary well-crafted counterfeits that usually challenge even the eyes of the best experts on the market.

It is a stereotype, but it is also said that there are more bottles in the black and grey market in China than the top Bordeaux and Burgundy wineries ever produced...

I've heard a story that a guy counterfeited 6,000 bottles of a very expensive and rare wine, and as per the same source, only about 2,000 bottles have been retrieved so far, meaning that the remaining 4,000 bottles could be anywhere in the world, even in your own personal collection.... scary.....
(not to create any paranoia on your part, but I'm sure that, from now on, you will look at your stash of expensive and rare bottles with a different eye...) 😊

I lately wrote a comment on a Facebook post about probably one of the most expensive wine dinners in history, organized by Fine Wine Experience in Hong Kong, at 108,000 HKD per person (read the article here), that it is quite funny to see all of these bottles of 1800s and early 1900s suddenly reappearing and coming back on the market from nowhere... (supposedly from unnamed private collectors who have been collecting them for decades....)... well, well.... it really makes me wonder as, frankly, I haven't seen that many as over the past 5-6 years... offered by both retailers and auction houses... while already back in the 90s and 2000s they were barely any on the markets and the few remaining ones were super hard to find.... nowadays, it seems that you can find some bottles of 1800s and early 1900s vintages everywhere and even in older vintages than the ones that were already difficult to find 20-25 years ago... surprising, no?... just saying... but it seems that there is something fishy about this... (and that is the Wine Quality Control Director talking here..)... 


Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1945 - Upper and Lower Labels© LeDomduVin 2018


- The lower label or main Label of this particular bottle is rough and shows signs of time, yet the paper, the size, the color(s), the font and the details are correct. And for those of you who may not know, R.C. meaning "Reserve du Château" is also correct. Therefore, no problem here either. 



Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1945 - Lower or main Label© LeDomduVin 2018

5. Conclusion

So, in conclusion, and to recap, I will say that this Jeroboam of Mouton Rothschild 1945 is a genuine bottle, and not a counterfeit, as all of its details are correct:
- The capsule (size, height, color, font, markings)
- The color and roughness of the glass, as well as the shape of the bottle (shoulder slightly broader than the bottom) and defaults of the bottle, as well as the lack of markings, are normal and expected for a 1945 vintage bottle
- The labels are detached and in 2 pieces (the upper one smaller in width) 
- The bottle writings, number, font, color, and size also match  

One day if I open the bottle I will let you know how was the cork and if in fact, it confirmed the authenticity of this bottle...


Obviously, and if you did not know prior to reading this little post, you will know now how to identify whether the bottle of Mouton 1945 you stashed away (either for investment and/or for your old days or a really special occasion) is a fake/counterfeit bottle or not...

It is easy, if all the above do not match, then it is a fake. For example, if  
- The capsule is wrong in color or markings, 
- The shape of the bottle is wrong, straight rather than broad shoulders, or too new for the vintage
- The label is in one rather than two pieces, and/or the width is the same for both labels. 
- It lacks a bottle number or states a wrong bottle number, or has been printed with the wrong color or font
- It presents glass markings which would not have been applied in 1945.
- And if you are able to see that the cork presents wrong markings or signs for the vintage. 





6. Authentication

Authentication is a hard job which is not as easy as people may think. Basically, while inspecting the bottles, you always have to think, refer to your memory and knowledge, check with previous inspection results and pictures if needed, and ask yourself some questions, more especially if you have any doubts and/or if any of the usual bottle, capsule and label characteristics for this specific producer and vintage do not seem to match with bottles previously inspected.

And answers to these questions only come with knowledge and experience and time. You could always ask the winery directly by sending them via email some pictures for their review and comments. Yet, even if it seems that the best place to find the answer is to go to the source, it is not  always the best choice and the right answer is not always guaranteed, as even the winery may not have the answer to your question(s) as they (even them) may not know or may not have records going back that far....

It is not easy I'm telling you... and if you decide to pursue a career into Wine Quality Control and Wine authentication (like me), you better start to build your own database of references with pictures and even label samples, either detached from old bottles or pictured closely enough to check the small details, as you will need it. Taking notes is also very important. (*)

In any case, even if you use your own knowledge, experience, memory, and any other references you may have to inspect and authentify a bottle, you will always have to ask yourself some questions as  for old vintage (pre-1960s) the capsule, cork, and label of a wine from same producer and vintage may slightly differ depending on

- the bottling time for example: is this bottle an original? or has it been reconditioned? re-corked? re-capsuled? relabeled?

- the negociant who bottled it at the time:  remember that until the mid 60s (1967 to be exact - when it became mandatory for the Chateaux to bottle their own wine(s) - even if some Chateaux started as early as the 1920s), most Chateau owners only tended their vineyards, crafted their wines to then put them in barrels and sell them to the negociants; but it was the negociants who, in turn, handled the rest of the process from wine aging, bottling, labelling, promotion, sales and distribution (and that from as far back as the early 17th century). Therefore, for very old vintage, it is not surprising to see a bottle with a negociant label differing from the one from the Chateau or even another negociant ... (to be continued soon) 



Et voila,

That's all folks! for today..... 

Stay tuned for more post like this one with pictures and details..... 


I wrote this little article on inspecting a Jeroboam of Mouton Rothschild 1945 in honor to celebrate, (a few days ahead), August 14th, 1945, the day when it was announced that Japan had surrendered unconditionally to the Allies, effectively ending World War II.

A day most commonly accepted as the end of World War II when the Japanese accepted the terms and surrendered, even if the real ending was when General of the Army, Douglas MacArthur, Supreme Commander for the Allied Forces, signed the Japanese surrender document aboard the battleship, U.S.S. Missouri in Tokyo Bay, Japan, on September 2, 1945







Cheers! Santé! 

Dominique Noël a.k.a. LeDomduVin

(*) maybe one day, I'll write another post to explain more in details what are the requirements for the job...

©LeDomduVin 2018