Occasional Exceptional Wines!
I recently opened, prepared, and served these succulent wines for a private dinner. Definitely not your everyday wines! What a lineup! I'm definitely one of the luckiest sommeliers I know. 😁👍🥂🍾🍷
What makes these wines so exceptional and special is not only their taste, reputation, and high prices, but also their extreme rarity and scarcity. This rarity is not just a marketing ploy, but a result of the limited number of bottles produced, often due to originating from small parcels, unique growing conditions, or meticulous production processes. This thus explains why they are occasional, as it is better to keep them for special occasions. It's a privilege to even have the opportunity to taste these wines.
NV Jacques Selosse Exquise Sec (RP04 - Disgorged December 2010) Champagne
Jacques Selosse is a renowned cult Champagne producer, well known for pioneering grower Champagne with a bold, terroir-driven style. Celebrated for its rich, oxidative character and meticulous craftsmanship, Selosse has revolutionized the world's perception of artisanal Champagne.
Champagne Jacques Selosse is located in the village of Avize, situated in the Côtes des Blancs. A family-run property which encompasses close to 8 hectares of vines in the crus of Avize, Cramant, Oger, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Aÿ, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, and Ambonnay.
The Selosse family had been cultivating grapes in Avize for generations, primarily selling their entire harvest to various Champagne houses. In 1959, Jacques Selosse broke with tradition by producing and selling his own Champagne.
His initial vintage produced only 2,500 bottles, as he continued to sell most of his grapes. Anselme Selosse succeeded his father in 1974, after earning a BTS in viticulture and enology from Beaune. By then, their annual production reached 12,000 bottles, though they still sold most of the crop.
In 1976, confronted with a severe drought and very ripe grapes, Anselme decided to add less sugar. By doing so, he realized he had changed his approach to champagne making and discovered freedom, as he could now change the style of his champagnes.
Anselme Selosse took control of his family estate and emphasized the distinct qualities of his vineyards. He quickly adopted organic farming practices, reducing yields to less than half of those of his neighbors and significantly delaying harvests to maximize ripeness.
He began fermenting all his wines with native yeasts in oak barrels, while avoiding secondary malolactic fermentation, using minimal sulfur additions, and practicing batonnage, which involves stirring the lees to enhance complexity. Finally, he adds only a small amount of dosage.
From 1990 to 1996, Anselme applied the principles of agrobiology in the vineyards. From 1996, his focus turned to bio-dynamics.
In 2002, he distanced himself from the biodynamic doctrine, reverting to more natural farming methods that have less impact on the environment. The thoughts and reflections of Masanobu Fukuoka and permaculture had begun to inspire him, and subsequently, he paid closer attention to the vines and the wine.
Over the last twenty years, the Selosse family has developed a unique viticulture approach that isn’t bound by a fixed method, but continually adapts to the conditions encountered in each growing season across various vineyard plots.
To illustrate their vine philosophy, Anselme and Guillaume (Anselme and Corinne’s son) frequently liken themselves to “gatherers,” nature’s harvesters who venture out to collect fruit from their surroundings.
The concept of terroir has seen significant progress over the past 3 decades, with Anselme Selosse being one of its most influential advocates.
His guiding philosophy — “We should take what nature has given us and not interfere” — drives his approach more passionately than anyone else, establishing him as a visionary mentor who has inspired many Champagne growers.
With fewer than 60,000 bottles produced annually, Selosse's wines are among the most prized sparkling wines of all.
NV Jacques Selosse Exquise Sec (RP04 - Disgorged December 2010) Champagne
Although the Exquise label mentions "Sec" (meaning "dry" in French, but typically corresponding to sweeter wines in Champagne and other regions), this non-vintage champagne is more akin to a demi-sec, as it has a dosage of 24-27 grams per liter, and it is therefore rather sweet than dry.
Made from 100% Chardonnay from a vineyard oriented South and located at the lower part of the hills with no clay, this is a beautiful and rich champagne. Beyond its golden hue in the glass, it offers a wealth of ripe peach and nutty aromas on the nose, followed by a fresh, slightly sweet, fruity, and creamy palate that expands nicely until the long finish. Nicely done, even if a bit too exotic for my palate, which is more inclined to drier champagnes.
The mark "RP04" on the bottle refers to a specific bottling from the producer Jacques Selosse, meaning "Réserve Personnelle du Millésime 2004" ("Personal Reserve" in English), indicating it is a special bottling from the producer.
Selosse's champagnes are usually aged for a minimum of 6 years before release. This particular bottle is a blend of Chardonnay grapes from various parcels harvested in 2004. It was then disgorged in 2010, which partly explains its slightly aged color and sherry-esque, nutty, almond aromas and flavors 15 years after corking.
For this cuvée, "Exquise," only 1,000 bottles are produced each year (with a maximum of 3,000 bottles per year, depending on the year and the source of that number), making it extremely rare.
Like many connoisseurs and amateurs of Champagne, I'm a massive fan of Selosse, and one can only wish that when the time comes, Guillaume Selosse will take over and continue to craft magnificent champagnes in the way his grandfather Jacques and his father Anselme did.
Info about Selosse courtesy of https://champagne-asia.com.hk/partner/jacques-selosse/ edited by and for www.ledomduvin.com
1996 Salon Cuvée "S" Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne
Champagne Salon Cuvee "S" is surely one of the best, most recognized, and sought-after champagnes in the world, and for good reasons. Despite its age, the 1996 vintage is outstandingly magnificent and tastes remarkably fresh and youthful, making it easy to mistake for a younger vintage if tasted blind.
In the glass, it displays a lovely, pale, vivid golden color with fine and fast bubbles. The nose is beautifully fresh and mineral, with stone fruit and zesty aromas, as well as floral notes. The palate is bright, vibrant, seamless, straight and focused, elegant, rich, and complex, with great tension due to its amazing acidity, minerality, and fruitiness. The long finish is so satisfying and persistent that it immediately calls for another glass. Although it has the potential to age longer for those willing to wait, it is absolutely gorgeous now. Superb!
2016 Louis Latour Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru Burgundy
The 2016 Louis Latour displays an intense golden color in the glass. The nose is quite fragrant, with aromas of yellow and stone fruit, as well as buttery, lemony, and mineral notes. The palate is focused, rich, complex, and ample, with good texture and structure, complemented by a sensation of mineral viscosity that gently coats the mouth, and enough acidity to keep it fresh, balanced through the lingering finish. It exhibits power and elegance, albeit somewhat restrained in certain aspects.
Very enjoyable wine overall, although I would have liked it to have more expression and purity, especially considering the price (about 490 Euros). But don't get me wrong, it was still delightful!
1996 Armand Rousseau Chambertin Grand Cru Burgundy
Brought by a guest for that night's dinner, this wine was a delightful surprise, as I hadn't tasted Armand Rousseau Chambertin in a long time. Yet, I did not know what to expect from that specific bottle, as the cork was extremely humid and crumbling, and broke into three parts before I could remove it, after exhausting all my patience and skill to get it out and prevent it from falling in (as I forgot to bring my Durand that I normally always bring with me to open such expensive and somewhat old bottles - I cannot believe that 1996 was already 29 years ago, while it seems like yesterday to me).
Yet, once the cork was removed, the air was immediately filled with a pleasant fragrance reminiscent of wild, ripe dark cherries and strawberries, with floral, mineral, and earthy notes, complemented by tertiary aromas of mushroom, autumn leaves, and underbrush. In the glass, it presented a bright, medium-intensity garnet color with a brick hue.
The guest suggested I decant it, but I told him I would rather not, as the wine was too fragile and too much air might shock it, accelerating its oxidation.
The light to medium-bodied palate was gorgeous, elegant, racy, finely chiseled, and distinguished, yet complex and layered in an extremely refined way, with the same amplified flavors as those on the nose, refreshing acidity and minerality, a beautiful texture and structure from the attack to the long and gracious finish. What a stunning wine!
It was a good thing I did not decant it, as it developed rapidly in the glass and in the bottle, and showed signs of weakness around the end of the dinner, roughly 1 hour and 30 minutes after opening. Yet, perhaps it was this particular bottle only, as I couldn't help but think that the state of the cork may have affected the wine in some way.
I hope to have the opportunity to taste this wine again to confirm whether the fragility of this wine was specific to this bottle due to the cork or if it is the typical profile of this wine in this particular vintage.
Nevertheless, the wine was still delivering all the traits and qualities that had propelled the reputation of its producer, being one of Burgundy's finest.
2016 François Lamarche La Grande Rue Monopole Grand Cru Burgundy
Although this bottle was kept at ideal temperature and humidity conditions in the company's cellar, since I bought it a few years ago, it too had a cork that was extremely humid and crumbling. It broke into two parts before I could remove it, after exhausting all my patience and skill to get it out and prevent it from falling in. (I did not have my Durand as mentioned above.)
Domaine François Lamarche
The Lamarche family settled in the small village of Vosne-Romanée (Côte d’Or – Burgundy) around 1740. They expanded their land holdings, and by the early 20th century, Henri Lamarche established the estate. He already produced and sold his wines directly from the domaine.
In 1933, he married Aline Demur and received the vineyard of “La Grande Rue” as a wedding gift. His son, François, inherited the estate after his father died in 1985. François was especially dedicated to obtaining official recognition for the monopole “La Grande Rue” as a Grand Cru, which was finally achieved in 1992, following efforts that began in 1989.
The vineyard itself is a narrow strip, approximately 50 meters wide, covering 1.65 hectares and situated just above “La Romanée” Grand Cru, the smallest Grand Cru in Burgundy.
Unfortunately, François Lamarche passed away in 2013, but his daughter, Nicole, his sister, Geneviève, and his niece, Nathalie, were all involved in the business and continued to run the domaine.
Domaine Lamarche produces 14 wines in total from 11.3 Ha of vineyards, including beautiful parcels in “Clos de Vougeot” Grand Cru (1.35 Ha), Echézeaux Grand Cru (1.32 Ha), Grands Echézeaux (0,30 Ha) and various plots of top 1er Crus in Vosne-Romanée, such as “Les Suchots” (0.58 Ha), “Les Chaumes” (0.56 Ha) and “Aux Malconsorts” (0.50 Ha).
All these wines are highly sought after, and their overall quality continues to improve with every vintage.
2016 François Lamarche La Grande Rue Monopole Grand Cru Burgundy
The 2016 La Grande Rue Grand Cru is fresh and enjoyably exuberant on the nose, offering a bouquet of ripe red cherries and dark berries, mingling with floral and mineral notes. While medium-bodied, the palate is fresh, gentle, playful, and generous, well-balanced between fruit, acidity, and tannins. Good texture, but in terms of structure, I would have loved for it to deliver more complexity, I mean, it's neighbor "La Romanée", so expectations are high.
It expands nicely and comfortably up to a certain point, but then falls slightly before the lingering finish. Nevertheless, it is still a beautifully crafted wine. And in the end, I was glad I had chosen it, as I hadn't tried it in a while, and it ultimately pleased the host and the guests, which was the most important thing.
1986 Petrus Pomerol Bordeaux
This bottle was a present for the host of the dinner. Unfortunately, I did not open it, but the anticipation of experiencing it one day is always a pleasure. The thought of sharing my thoughts if I open it in the future fills me with excitement.
However, I had many occasions to open Petrus in my 33-year career, including the 1986 vintage, which I loved, despite some people and critics saying it is not a great vintage. 1986 in Bordeaux followed the hot and sunny 1985 vintage (same as 1996 and 1995, 2006 and 2005, and 2016 and 2015, which again confirm my theory of the decades for Bordeaux vintages - read it here if interested), which was considered one of the best vintages of that decade, alongside 1982 and 1989.
Consequently, the 1986 vintage seemed subdued in comparison. And yet, if 1986 offers less ripe fruits and less complexity or length, it possesses nevertheless more acidity and sharper tannins, bringing freshness, texture, and structure, as well as longer ageing potential. And despite their shyness and tightness, as well as the need for decanting a few hours before serving, most 1986 Petrus I have tasted were great and still very youthful, as far as I recall.
I would have loved to open this bottle, as I have not tasted one in more than a decade. It would have been good to refresh my memory and see how the wine evolved.
That's all, folks, for today!
Cheers! Santé!
Dom
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