2009 Losen Bockstanz Riesling Kabinett Wittlich Mosel Germany

Weingut Losen-Bockstanz Mosel Germany  

Historically, the roots of the Losen-Bockstanz estate go back to the 16th century. As of today, Thomas Losen and his family manage this small, traditional estate. 

Weingut Losen-Bockstanz is located in Wittlich, a little village on the eastern bank of the Mosel River, about 36 kilometers northeast of Trier and about 95 kilometers southwest of Koblenz, nestled the middle of the famous Mosel region, which possesses ideal vine-growing conditions perfectly adapted to the Riesling grape variety and produces some of the best wines of Germany.  

Losen-Bockstanz wine’s quality primarily comes from the quality of the fruit and the location of the vineyards. The skill and experience of generations of winemaking, supplemented by the latest technologies and techniques in the vineyard and cellar serve only one purpose: to produce the best wines, expressive of their Terroir of origin. Regardless of the vintage, location and variety, Losen-Bockstanz wines always have something special that makes you get back to them. 

Wine is a gift of nature: the unique fauna and flora in the midst of the most beautiful area of the Mosel bear witness to this, which means natural wine. Here, in this magnificent décor of gentle hill slopes covered with vines and overlooking tranquil rivers, the winery produces premium, complex still and sparkling wines, which are characterized by excellent focus, harmony and taste.   

Like most wineries in Germany and more particularly in Mosel, Losen-Bockstanz produces multiple Riesling wines ranging from rather dry and off-dry (Kabinett), to sweet late harvest (Spatlese) and selected harvest (Auslese) and even sweeter dessert wines made from selection of botrytised grapes (Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese).  

According to the Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete (QbA) and Pradikatswein system, the sweetness in most German white wines is determined by the time of the harvest and précised on the label by the following words, also representing categories: Kabinett, Spatlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese and Eiswein. Any wine not mentioning any of the cited categories is usually a dryer style (Classic, Trocken). Other names on the label refer usually to the vineyard and / or the village and / or the region of origin.   

Obviously, the later the harvest will happen, the riper the grapes will be, therefore containing higher sugar content. Yet, to fully understand the sweetness of a German wine, you also have to take in consideration the desired style of the producer, if chaptalisation occurred or not, the vineyard it comes from and the allowed alcohol content range per category; knowing that the lower the alcohol content will be, the higher the sweetness in the final wine will be. Confusing isn’t it?    

Therefore, I rather intentionally leave aside the dryer style (Trocken) and declassified wines (easily recognizable because of the little *** on the label following the category), but also the fact all these factor can also vary depending on the region of origin, to avoid even more confusion.    

For example, today’s wine is a Kabinett, meaning that it is supposed to be a fully ripened light white wine from the main harvest, typically off dry or semi-sweet with crisp acidity, and it is, but it could also have been “dry” if designated so (Trocken). 

However, this particular one isn’t dry, but it isn’t the sweetest of its category either. What you have to realize as well is that, by law, the minimum authorized alcohol content in a Kabinett Riesling from the Mosel is 7% (sweet) but it also can go up to 11% (much dryer); today’s wine being 9% places it in the middle.       

2009 Losen Bockstanz Riesling Kabinett Wittlich Mosel Germany 

Suggested retail price $13-$16

Imported by Vision Brands LLC in NYC 

It presents a light, clean yellow, greenish color with bright reflects. The nose offers fresh, enticing and gentle zesty, mineral notes nicely complementing the white peach, lemony aromas. The palate is soft, juicy, and lightly sweet with similar flavors as the nose. The light, bright and really enjoyable finish possesses lovely balance and texture, and seems somewhat quite long. Highly recommended and a no brainer at this price. It will fit particularly well with light dishes, steamed sea and freshwater fish, boiled meat with light sauces, and a small poultry; and of course slightly spicy and raw Asian food. 

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

For more info about this wine go to the winery website at www.losen-bockstanz.de
(no English version available unfortunately for now)


Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship

LeDom du Vin: Dragon's Hollow: China, New Frontier and experimental ground for winemaking

Dragon's Hollow China

For the purist who knew Great Wall, one of the most famous Chinese wines sold in Europe (and in the rest of the world), here is a new challenger from China: Dragon's Hollow.

Dragon’s Hollow, one of the first Chinese winery to produce a high quality grapes, is located at the foot of the He Lan Mountain range in Ningxia Hui, China (about 600 miles west of Beijing, central-north China).

The vineyard was started in 2003, but the vines were originally planted in the early 90’s. The land covers an area of 6,000 hectares and is the largest top quality vineyard in Western China. The landscape looks like a huge green mirror inlaid in the vast expanse of the Loess Plateau.

China’s best varieties of wine grapes are grown in this region profiting from the sandy soil which is rich in organic content. Experts from both China and abroad have found the natural conditions in this region are comparable those found in France’s Bordeaux region and agree that it is the best ecological zone in China for growing top quality wine grapes.

The lofty He Lan Shan Mountains shelters the vineyard from cold winds in the winter and local spring water is used to irrigate the vineyard in the spring and summer. Dry weather and long hours of sunshine ensure that the grapes grow to full ripeness with superb colors, a full aroma, and an enchanting taste. The long and cold winter helps to ward off plant diseases and insect pests.

Winemaking is Ningxia has a history of over 1,000 years. During the Tang Dynasty (618-907) a famous poet wrote a poem in praise of the wine made in Ningxia . During the 11th and 12th centuries the Xixia Kingdom flourished here. The Capital city Yinchuan, used to be an important town on the ancient Silk Road where many merchants came to trade. They brought the local wine to other parts of the country making it known far and wide. Rock carvings in the Helanshan Mountains are testimony to the cultural exchanges between different ethnic groups in ancient times. Today the people of Yincuangxia are carrying forward the fine tradition of wine making by adopting high technology and modern management.



2006 Dragon's Hollow Vineyards Unoaked Chardonnay China
(eastern foot of the "He Lan" Mountain appellation)
Suggested retail price $12-$15
Distributed by Domaine Select in NYC


First, I need to say that I tasted this first wine blind and need to admit that this wine wasn't easily recognizable because of its texture (somewhat lighter and not as complex as a Burgundian Chardonnay, with a "je ne sais quoi" of New World ripeness, a more tropical fruit touch to it, without being over extracted or too ripe), but also because of its bright acidity that reminds me more of some other grapes (sort of a sauvignon-like texture in the palate), pretty vivid for a Chardonnay or too light.

The nose is bright, clean, fresh with aromas of citrus, lemon peel or zest, green apple and a touch floral. Light on his feet, the palate is refreshing, balanced and clean yet not too complex but very pleasing for a first experience with a Chinese white wine (I tasted some reds before, but no whites until today). The finish is simple and easy going with an excellent balance.

Overall, even if a bit light for my taste, I enjoyed it very much and I think my customer will be please to experience such wine. I think that with a tiny bit of age, the vines will get slightly better and more interesting. For now, it is rather uncomplicated, discreet and straightforward. I hope that the next vintages will bring more layers of complexity and depth. But in this kind of price range, it remains a very strong value (especially in today's market where everything is so expensive).

I tasted this wine last winter and it was a bit closed. However, because the lightness and the vivid acidity that this wine shows, it seems more appropriate for the summer months and seems to have evolce the right way since then. Let's just hope that we will have a good summer and a warm Indian fall, because so far this spring season has benn awfully rainy. This is a wine to discover and to appreciate on salad, oyster, shell fish and grilled river white fish.


After this very interesting tasting game, David (the brand manager of Dragon's Hollow) poured me a glass of his second wine:


2006 Dragon's Hollow Vineyards Riesling China
(eastern foot of the "He Lan" Mountain appellation)
Suggested retail price $12-$15
Distributed by Domaine Select in NYC

Dragon's Hollow Riesling is definitely more expressive on the nose than the Chardonnay (although it remains quite discreet and restrain compare to some Alsace or German Rieslings).

It displays floral and fruity aromas of white flowers, honeysuckle, white peach and apricot skin mixed with notes of wet stone minerality. The palate is dry (dryer than an Alsace and definitely more than a German Riesling) and offers similar flavors of citrus, lime, honeysuckle and a twist of petroleum. Showing more depth and multiple layers of fruit combined with a great acidity, it appears less mono-dimensional than the Chardonnay.

Overall, both have a great balance and some interesting features despite the fact that they are both quite light; yet they will surely quench the thirst of someone looking for a fresh, bright, clean and down-to-earth white wine.


In my opinion:

The wines from China just started to arrive in the American market and they are fairly unknown to most drinkers. Fortunately, made out of international grape varieties, they will ease the expected hesitation of the consumers at first.

Unfortunately, for some people, it will just be another Chardonnay or another Cabernet (or any other international grape) from another country that doesn't have a past of winemaking history. It may fashion a certain interest at the beginning, but who knows how long is it going to last, especially if they don't rapidly focus on high quality wines for a decent price.

If they don't offer wines made from lesser known (or less commercial) grape varieties, after a while the Chinese wines may end up not selling too well and not necessarily continue to attract the customers (except may be by curiosity or because the wine is a truly good value compare to other wines from other countries made from the same grape).

They may have to specialize into certain grapes to keep up with the market (like Malbec in Argentina; Carmenere in Chile; Tannat in Uruguay: Shiraz in Australia; Sauvignon in New Zealand; Riesling in Germany; Gruner Veltliner in Austria; Tempranillo and Garnacha in Spain; Sangiovese and Nebbiolo in Italy; Pinot Noir in Burgundy and Oregon; Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from Bordeaux and California; etc...only to talk about the most well-known grapes, because they are dozens more coming from the 70 leading wine producing countries in the world).

However, I'm glad that there are quite a few open minded people like David Henderson to lead the way into introducing winemaking and wine tradition in new countries. I wish him luck with Dragon's Hollow Vineyards and will be proud to be one of the first in New York to carry his wines and suggest them to my valuable customers.

We have now carry at the store Dragon's Hollow since last fall, but I think customers will better appreciate these wines now that we timidly entering in the summer months.

Keep an open mind on everything, do not judge too quickly when you don't know and don't be too stubborn about what you like or dislike, taste it before making in hasty conclusion.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info and picture taken from Domaine Select website at: www.domaineselect.com

Step into the Green! drink more Bio and Organic wines (and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment!