Subtle power
I recently selected and served these wines for a private dinner, and I hadn't tasted them in a while. I was expecting them to be rich and exuberant, but in the end, their strength lay in their subtlety.
Dom Ruinart Champagne Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2010
Dom Ruinart exclusively selects Chardonnay from primarily Grand Cru sites. 90% of the Chardonnay grapes are sourced from the Côte des Blancs (including Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Avize, Chouilly, and Cramant), planted in the Côte’s famous white, calcareous chalky soil where it excels, benefiting from an easterly exposure. The remaining 10% comes from the north-facing Montagne de Reims, specifically from Maison Ruinart's historic vineyard, located in the Grand Cru areas of the village of Sillery.
Dom Ruinart 2010 represents a significant milestone. In its pursuit of excellence, Maison Ruinart extended the wine's aging process to reveal additional layers of flavor. For this cuvée, the oenological team decided to reintroduce cork during aging, confirming its benefits through years of tastings. After at least 9 years ageing on its lees, it is notable that the cork has imparted a woody character to this vintage, in addition to the aromas of grilled almonds and coffee on the nose and palate. Extra Brut with a dosage of 4 g/L.
Beyond its pale yellow gold color, the nose is aromatic and fresh, offering aromas of yellow and stone fruits mingling with floral, mineral, toasted, and nutty notes. Overall, the palate is generous, ample, and layered, lingering somewhat, although not as long as I would have liked; yet the finish is fresh and elegant, elevated by a subtle bitterness. As it is neither too heavy nor too light, it is a good champagne to bring to any occasion, ideal as an aperitif with appetizers. A real quaffer!
Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres 2020
Vincent Bitouzet’s family history in Burgundy spans the last two centuries, with the Bitouzets among the earliest families in the area to bottle their own wines. Vincent’s grandfather received awards for his winemaking in 1860. When Vincent married Annie Prieur, they merged parts of their family estates to establish a renowned domaine. Now, their son Francois Bitouzet, Vincent and Annie’s son, is actively collaborating with his parents.
Based in Volnay, with significant holdings in Meursault, the domaine covers 12 hectares, roughly four of which are planted with Chardonnay, and the remaining eight with Pinot Noir. They practice organic viticulture, and the harvest is manually done. Classic Burgundian winemaking methods are used, using only indigenous yeasts.
The Bitouzet-Prieur family owns just over a quarter-hectare of Chardonnay, planted in 1983, in the lower part of this renowned premier cru "Les Perrières Dessous," located right above "Les Charmes" on the slope. The Meursault-Perrières is probably the most dazzling mineral wine in their collection. While it can be closed when young, it gradually opens up into a stunning white Burgundy with layered complexity.
I was unsure what to expect from this wine, as it was my first time trying it. I previously tried other wines from Bitouzet-Prieur, but never this particular one. I'm not sure why I always want to say "Bizoutet" ("Bizouter" is a slang in French that means "kissing" or "giving kisses", which would be a nice and funny name) instead of "Bitouzet".
However, I was pleasantly surprised, as instead of being a powerhouse of creamy butter, popcorn, and toasted oak flavors, as some Meursault can be (those that are more New World-style than the New World Chardonnays themselves), this wine is all about subtlety, refinement, and elegance. The oak treatment is present but barely noticeable, as only about 25-30% new oak is used during its 16-month aging process, making it significantly more palatable and enjoyable than those using 100% new oak.
At first, I misinterpreted its subtlety and elegance as a lack of body and weight. I wanted more from it, more fruit, more substance, more backbone. However, it then began to reveal itself after a few seconds. I tasted it again, and then it hit me. It was beautiful and charming. Fresh, light, and elegant yet complex and layered, it was like a ballerina, showcasing power, balance, precision, and sophistication in a subtle and graceful manner. If timid, the nose is fresh and mineral, with aromas of yellow fruits and citrus, combined with a gentle hint of buttery, toasted oak and herbal nuances. The palate is soft, silky, elegant, and refined, gently expanding towards the long, fresh, and mineral finish. Loved it!
Drouhin-Laroze Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru 2016
Domaine Drouhin-Laroze has been a family-owned estate for over 150 years, featuring numerous prestigious appellations in the top-tier Premier Cru and Grand Cru categories, which showcases a rich heritage. Today, Philippe and Christine Drouhin, along with their children, manage the estate.
Drouhin-Laroze's Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru comes from an east-facing plot at 260 meters elevation, where the vines were planted in 1973 and 1986. The monks of Bèze established a chapel at that location in 1155. It was reconstructed in 1457 before eventually being destroyed, and it is the origin of the name of the appellation.
Those who follow me for a while know that I'm a huge fan of wines with "Chambertin" in the name. Why? The wines of Gevrey-Chambertin, from the village wines to the Premier Crus and Grands Crus, are some of the most versatile wines of all Burgundy. For a Sommelier like me, they are the easiest to pair with. And this Chapelle-Chambertin from Drouhin Laroze confirmed this rule.
The 2016 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru features approximately 30% whole-bunch fruit, which adds complexity, texture, and structure. Right after opening, the nose displays fresh aromas of ripe red cherries and berries, mingling with floral, mineral, oaky, and earthy notes, reminiscent of a forest floor, but springier than autumnal. Light to medium-bodied, the palate remains quite subtle and could have benefited from a bit more volume and substance. And yet, it is clean, focused, refined, elegant, and sophisticated in its subtlety, with a finely textured and structured palate that is well-balanced between fruit and acidity, and a silky mouthfeel and fine tannins, all culminating in a lingering mineral earthy finish. Loved it.
Chateau Lynch-Bages Pauillac Bordeaux 2005
Château Lynch-Bages, situated at the entrance to Pauillac, is a notable estate that has significantly influenced the history of the Médoc wine region. The terroir surrounding the area and the old village of Bages has been recognized since the 16th century, but it achieved broader fame in the 18th century.
According to "The Wine Insider," the Dejean family sold the property in 1728 to Pierre Drouillard. In 1749, Drouillard passed the estate to his daughter, Elizabeth, who was married to Thomas Lynch. That’s how the estate became part of the Lynch family, where it remained for seventy-five years and later on inspired the name "Lynch Bages". (*)
In the 1930s, Jean-Charles Cazes, already managing Les Ormes de Pez in St. Estèphe, took on a lease for Lynch Bages' vineyards. The Cazes family had a long legacy in Bordeaux dating back to the late 1800s. Jean-Charles Cazes later bought both estates just before World War II. Since then, Lynch Bages and Les-Ormes-de-Pez have remained under the Cazes family's management. (*)
Jean-Michel Cazes, who started as an engineer in Paris, entered the wine industry and began managing the estate in 1973. Soon after, he modernized every aspect of Lynch Bages. Jean-Michel Cazes met more people, traveled more often, and promoted his wines worldwide like no other Château owner. Lynch Bages is now one of the most popular and beloved brands in Bordeaux wine, thanks to Jean Michel Cazes's relentless efforts. It’s interesting to note that Jean-Michel Cazes was one of the first château owners to start promoting their wine in China in 1986. (*)
In June 1989, Lynch Bages inaugurated its new winemaking facilities, perfectly timed to celebrate one of the finest vintages they've ever produced. That same year also saw the opening of the Cordeillan-Bages hotel and restaurant. A few years afterward, the renovated Village de Bages, featuring various shops, was established.(*)
In 2006, Jean-Michel's son, also named Jean-Charles Cazes, became the managing director of Château Lynch-Bages. Jean-Michel Cazes continued to lead the family's wine and tourism division. Thanks to ongoing promotion in the Asian market, Château Lynch-Bages remains one of the strongest brands in the region, especially in China.(*)
A benchmark among fine Pauillac wines and one of the most recognizable Bordeaux labels, especially in the US and Asia, Château Lynch-Bages boasts over 90 hectares of vineyard rooted in the region's characteristic Garonne and lower Gironde estuary gravel soil. The hand-picked grapes are initially sorted in the vineyard and then usually aged for 15 months in about 80% new oak barrels.
A blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot, Lynch-Bages benefited from the notoriously warm, sunny, and dry 2005 vintage. The lower yields, caused by dry conditions and water stress, limited production but improved ripening quality, resulting in high-quality grapes.
The 2005 Lynch-Bages is very seductive and aromatic on both the nose and the palate. In the glass, the color is deep ruby with a slightly brownish hue. On the nose, it boasts a melange of dark berries, cassis, cedar, graphite, and forest floor aromas, with floral notes (such as violet) and earthy undertones. The palate is unexpectedly soft and gentle, medium-bodied and silky, with present yet fine and well-integrated, ripe tannins that add both texture and structure. It has enough acidity to keep it fresh and lively, and is balanced with the ripeness of the fruit, leading to a long, persistent, and delicious earthy finish. Loved it!
And, once again, being a Pauillac spawned from the 2005 vintage, I was waiting for a bigger wine with more volume and weight, and yet its strength lay in its subtlety. Well done!
These are four elegant, refined, stylish wines with a soft expression and a subtle power.
Cheers! Santé!
Dom
(*) Source: https://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/bordeaux-wine-producer-profiles/bordeaux/pauillac/lynch-bages/
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