2007 Txomin Etxaniz Getariako Txakolina Basque Country Spain

2007 Txomin Etxaniz Getariako Txakolina Basque Country Spain

Suggested retail price $21-$24

Distributed by Tempranillo, Inc in NYC

Txomin Etxaniz is located in the heart of one of Spain’s smallest appellations: Txacoli of Getaria or Chacolí de Guetaria in Spanish.

Txakoli of Getaria (Getariako Txakolina in Basque) is a very small appellation located approximately 10 kilometers west of San Sebastian (North of Spain). The appellation encompasses 85 hectares of vineyards planted on very steep, green, terraced and ocean-washed slopes facing the Cantabrian Sea. The ocean influence and the chalky soil bring minerality and freshness to the wines. Txacoli benefits from a temperate climate, with abundant rainfall, and its people (the Basque) are traditionally hardy and proud.

Getaria is a beautiful little village located about 15 minutes driving from San Sebastian. It is a charming fisherman "bourg" with three of my favorites place in the world: the Saiaz Hotel (quint with an extraordinary view on the bay of Getaria) and Kaia-Kaipe restaurant, specialized in grilled fish, especially the Turbo for two, and it has one of the best wine list for old Rioja wines (that I know). The third one is a great restaurant, topping a cliff, with a beautiful, modern dining room overlooking the ocean, called Akelare. The food is a fusion of Spanish and Basque cuisine with a "Nouvelle Cuisine" approach and price, yet it is definitely worth it, especially if you have a spare lunch in your agenda.

Txakoli (or Txakolina) is a slightly sparkling (or "Perlant", should I say) white wine exclusively produced in the Basque Country of Spain. It is mainly produced from the local white grape “Hondarribi Zuri” but can be sometimes blended with a touch of “Hondarribi Beltza” (a local red grape variety), to add flavors and structure. It was traditionally fermented in "foudres" (very old, large oak barrels) but nowadays, most Txakolina are fermented in big stainless steel tanks.

FYI: If you happen to visit one (or more) Txokoli (Chacoli, for some people) wineries, they will surely bring you down to the cellar to appreciate a glass (or two) of this refreshing style of slightly fizzy white poured from a great height straight from the tanks (into a flat tumbler placed a few meters below). Txakolina wines are high in acidity, low in alcohol and usually served in a tumbler, with fried or grilled white fish and of course the most well-known food of Spain: tapas.

Txakolina D.O.Cs: There are 3 “Denominaciones de Origen” (D.O.) dedicated to the production of Txakolina: Arabako Txakolina (Spanish: Chacolí de Alava), Bizkaiko Txakolina (Spanish: Chacolí de Vizcaya), and Getariako Txakolina (Spanish: Chacolí de Guetaria).

Txomin Etxaniz is surely one of the best producers of Txakoli. The Chueca family has made Txomin Etxaniz the benchmark wine of the appellation. Although, their label could almost suggest that they belong to an older time, the winery is packed with the latest technology. The winery, founded in 1930, is located in the heart of the fisherman village of Getaria, in a 15^th Century building.

They started as a “Caserios” (or local wine farm) and never stopped promoting the friendliness and the quality of their wines. With them, many generations of other winegrowers dedicated themselves to the culture of this wine and the elaboration of Txakoli, leading among other things the constitution in 1989 of the D.O Getariako Txakolina.

Txomin Etxaniz possesses nearly 24 hectares of vines, growing on terraced slopes creating a trompe l’oeil effect to the ocean, where the two native varieties are cultivated: 85% of Hondarrabi zuri and 10-13% of Hondarrabi beltza completed with a touch of Cabernet Franc.

After harvest, the whole grapes are gently pressed with a pneumatic press. The fermentation takes place at low temperatures in stainless steel tanks. Txomin's Txakolis are elaborated in two warehouses located in the vineyards of Getaria: Gurutze & Amets Mendi. The wine rests on its lees (a bit like a Muscadet) and after several months in stainless steel tanks, it is bottled with leftovers of its natural carbonic gas; thus the fizzy feeling in the palate. The vinification his overseen by Andrés and Ernesto Chueca Isasti.

2007 Txomin Etxaniz Getariako Txakolina is crisp, lively, friendly and fresh with citrus fruits, white blossom and great minerality on the finish. Excellent balance and length without being complicated. The pearling touch (or fizz) on the palate makes it fun, versatile and easy going. Enjoy at anytime.

In conclusion, I can say that I love Txakoli wines (and the Basque country where I go nearly every year). These white wines breathing daily the Atlantic ocean waves and air, are delightful all year long (although do not keep them for too long, they are meant to be drunk young). Increasing demand, small production and hand harvest (especially on the vines pouring down the cliff and braving the ocean temper), understandably raise the price up, so price could be an issue...(especially in this economy). However, these white wines are really good and you should at least try them, Txomin being one of the best ones around (with Ameztoi).

Reminder: In order to really appreciate it, the wine needs to be poured from a certain height into a flat bottom glass (in a similar way as a Moroccan tea). It needs air to express itself. Drink it fresh, young (it doesn’t age) and accompanied by seafood, fish and poultry.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

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Wine Travel: Spain and Rioja

For those who know me well, you know my love for Spain. Every year, I go to San Sebastian and Getaria in the Basque country and spend a few days with my wife and son, eating tapas and drinking Txakoli whites and Rioja reds. I highly recommend it, for food and wine lovers.

Kaia Kaipe (in Getaria, excellent wine list with old Riojas and Riberas and fabulous grilled fish, the Turbo for two is one of the house's speciality) and Arzak (in San Sebastian, a mix of traditional and fusion cuisine in a Basque way, a bit expensive but excellent food) are two of my favorite restaurants in the world.

In Getaria, my favorite hotel is Saiaz Getaria Hotel, it is a lovely, peaceful, family run hotel with unique views of the ocean and the little bay of Getaria. In San Sebastian, Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra with its incomparable view of La Concha (the main beach of the town) is surely one of my favorites. The other one is Monte Igueldo hotel perched on the mount of the same name, overlooking the entire bay of San Sebastian (a bit old and run down in some part, noisy and a bit far from city center for some people but worth it for the views of the ocean and the city (go their for a drink just for the view).

I also went to El Bulli (in the village of Roses, north of Barcelona, in the Costa Brava region) which was a truly amazing experience and an unusual culinary lesson. In my opinion, El Bulli will never become your everyday restaurant due to the prices and the extreme texture of the food (lot of "mousse" or foam), however you should experience it at least once or twice in your life, it's worth it.

One of my most memorable memories in Spain took place at Marques de Riscal (Rioja, Elciego), after one of my numerous visits at the winery, we were invited to eat at their new gastronomic restaurant and to stay in their newly built Luxury Hotel. Don't ask me how we did it, it is a long story... however, here again the food was excellent, the service fabulous and the suites (it is more than a room, trust me) which were reserved for us, were sumptuous.

Despite sleeping in great hotels and eating in many exquisite, hard to book in advance restaurants, my previous job also allowed me to travel, every year, to many different wine regions of Spain (and many in France too) for wine tastings (often with the owner or the winemaker, in the cellar at the barrels) and buying purposes. I was really privileged to be able to prepare, organize and participate to all my boss's trips.

I visited many wineries, met a lot of earthy, welcoming producers and tasted hundreds of wines from Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Toro, Cigales, Bierzo, Rias Raixas, Ribeiro, Navarra, Monsant, Priorat, Bullas, La Mancha, Penedes, Rueda, Tarragona, Terra Alta, Coster del Segre, Emporda Costa Brava, Alicante, Jumilla, Yecla, Valdepenas, etc... and of course many Xeres (altough I never been to the south of Spain, I roughly stoped in the middle).

Spain is really a delightful place to visit but not only for its wines or its food, the culture, the history, the people, the sunny weather, the Mediterranean cost and the nouvelle vague (new wave) of artists and designers make Spain one of the main center of interest in Europe. Barcelona is (somewhat) still under the radar compared to Paris, London, Rome, Milan, Geneva, Brussels or Berlin (to only name a few), but it is getting there slowly and surely. You just have to walk the streets of Barcelona to realize it. There are paintings and sculptures, and many other forms of art to confirm it at every corners of this energetic city.

However, I could continue to talk about the multiple attractive features of Spain for many more paragraphs, but I think I should write another post about it. So let's come back to wine and especially to Rioja.

Despite the fact that my heart belongs to Bordeaux (and my wife and son) and that I absolutely adore Burgundy, I always come back to Rioja. First, because it is not too far from Bordeaux and San Sebastian (both primary destinations every time I 'm back in Europe), and secondly, because there is something magical about it.

I always say that Rioja has something almost unrealistic, a bit like an attraction park or a movie studio. You will understand what I mean if you drive through Rioja, because, (and this only a personal impression), the roads are brand new but everything around it date from the XII and XIII century, which create such a contrast that you could almost believe that the landscape is a decor, somewhat unreal or surreal.

If you leave the main road to take a more country side road to go to San Vicente de la Sonsierra, Laguardia or even Haro, you will suddenly be transported back in time, a more medieval time.

On the side of the road, next to the vineyard, you can still see these little domes made of stone and earth, sort of vineyard workers' hut where they usually rest during the day if the temperature rise to high during summer or just to take a break or stock their vineyard tools. Some of these Stone Domes or Huts date from even before the medieval times. From an historical point of view, Rioja's vineyards and wine culture began with the Phoenician in 11th century BC, and was later firmly established by the Romans (like most of the known vineyards in western Europe).

These Domes are vestige of the long wine producing tradition of the area. Even the villages, like in the medieval times, remain small and nestled on hilltop through out Rioja. They were built and erected on strategic high point to be defendable and some were impregnable. The lord of the village or the region could, that way, overlook the production of his land and protect his people.

Rich in culture and tradition, Rioja is a peaceful wine oasis that any wine and food lovers should visit.

To be continued....

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

PS: next time, I will write a bit more about some of my favorites restaurants, hotels and of course wineries in Rioja. I will also give more details on different places that I visited in Ribera del Duero and Priorat (and more)....

2007 Ameztoi Getariako Txakolina Gipuzkoa Spain

2007 Ameztoi Getariako Txakolina Gipuzkoa Spain
Suggested retail price $22-$24
(imported by www.demaisonselections.com and distributed by www.tedwardwines.com)

Made from the local indigenous grape, Hondarribi Zuri, Ameztoi is clean, fresh, juicy, racy, vivid and long. Mineral and full of zest, it is a must try for people who love bone dry white. I personally adore Txakolina wines, especially during the summer, and Ameztoi is one of my favorite wineries of this area.

Once, I visit the winery, about 3-4 years ago. The sight and the view were amazing. The vineyards planted on the hills and cliffs that makes this waterfront area so beautiful, are literally plunging into the ocean. The wine has iodine, salty hints that pairs fantastically well with fresh fish and shellfish. Usually, on Saturday, the owner transforms the winery into a hang out place / bistro for his family and friends but also for visitors. It is fun and convivial and the food is fresh from the market, cook on the spot.

While enjoying your food, if your glass happen to be empty, you can just go downstairs in the cellar where you will be able to refill your tumbler glass (it is the best type of glass to enjoy Txakolina wine, no fuss, no snobbery, just a tumbler...) straight out from the stainless steel tank. You will have to position your glass a few meters away from the metallic cuve and one of the cellar employee will open a tap projecting the refreshing, young and slightly effervescent white wine in the air to aerate it just before landing in your glass. This wine needs a good dose of oxygen to open up, release all of its flavors and attenuate the fizz.

The gorgeous port of Getaria, one of the most well known fisherman villages of the area, is a delight to visit and proudly encompasses two of my favorite restaurant for their wine list (incredibly cheap old Riojas, and other classic Spanish reds and whites at unbeatable prices: ). Getaria is just a few minutes away from San Sebastian, a great town to visit for tapas and especially for one of the great restaurant of this world : Arzak Restaurant. San Sebastian is the capital of the Spanish Basque country and surely the food capital of the northern part of Spain.

I try to go to San Sebastian and Getaria every year with my little family. It is worth the trip and I always enjoy it.

San Sebastian is fun and young with lots of Tapas bar, bistros, cafes and restaurants to choose from. The old town is beautiful. The night life is vibrant. And you can stay in their numerous hotels. My favorites: Mercure San Sebastian Monte Igueldo (for the view more than for the access or the comfort, but ok prices) and Londres Hotel (expensive price but exceptional view of the beach, the board walk and the bay).

Getaria is a picturesque fisherman village, difficult of access, but much more wild, charming and somewhat inviting than San Sebastian (my only issue: it was difficult to find a parking spot, but it is a nice price to pay when you want less tourist). The port and the mount San Anton (called "the mouse") are great for Sunday afternoon walk with the family after a nice, long lunch at Elkano or even better at Kaia-Kaipe restaurant. My favorite hotel for the quality, the view and the service is Saiaz Getaria Hotel ( I stayed at Saiaz nearly every year in the last 6-7 years and I have never been disappointed).

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin