LeDomduVin: 3 is always the ideal number of bottles and choices when it comes to wine.

Why? 

For the number of bottles, during most dinners or events with 3-4 or more people, estimate about half a bottle per person as a general rule of thumb. So, for 3-4 people, 2 bottles might not be enough; 4 bottles are usually recommended for a backup. Hence, three bottles are ideal for regular drinkers drinking with moderation.      

For the choices, it is quite obvious that with 3-4 people or more, diversity is a must, as not everyone likes the same thing. Hence, offering 3 types of wine, like the ones in the photo above (champagne, white, and red), is by far the most ideal choice to please everyone. And these 3 wines were, in fact, really pleasing 

If you incorporate French traditions and culture into this, it is polite to offer your guests champagne as an aperitif with some "amuse-bouches" to awaken their taste buds, then serve white wine with the appetizers and starters, followed by red wine with the main course. 

Jacques Selosse Initial Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut Champagne NV

I have opened several bottles of Selosse’s “Initial” over the years and have always been very pleased with this champagne. Some might say the price is a bit high, but you should keep in mind that, besides being Selosse’s entry-level cuvée and a non-vintage—making up more than half of his annual production, with about 33,000 bottles out of roughly 55,000 to 60,000 made each year—it remains quite limited compared to most small independent and especially large Champagne Houses. 

Additionally, Initial is usually a blend of three successive vintages, aged on lees (both the first and second alcoholic fermentations) for at least six years before disgorgement. This justifies the price and the wait, don’t you think? And, if “Initial” were a person, it would be a “he,” as I find it more masculine than “V.O.” (which I would consider more feminine), and to describe him, I would say he is a smiling, pleasant, curvy, cheerful, relaxed, chic, and cosmopolitan gentleman.

Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Pucelles" 2019

Here's another classic in my collection, as I have dubbed myself the “unofficial” ambassador of Domaine Leflaive, especially “Les Pucelles,” since my first taste in 1997. It’s a refined wine with prominent mineral notes and a touch of ripeness in its youthful fruit—ripe yet still fresh. The nose reveals apples, pears, and other ripe yellow fruits, all elegant and well-balanced, with beautiful minerality from start to finish. I appreciate it greatly, though I wish it had a bit more acidity to boost its freshness. It’s a very harmonious, full-bodied, and voluptuous wine, with a long-lasting finish. Overall, I love it, but a little more acidity would have completed it. Nice!

Maison Joseph Drouhin Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2020

I had not tasted this wine in this vintage before, and I must say, I was really impressed. The nose is beautiful, boasting fresh aromas of red cherries, ripe wild cherries, a little spice, mingling with floral, herbal, earthy, and mineral notes. The palate is very silky, extremely well-balanced, elegant and refined, very feminine (for my palate), very delicate yet complex, rich in a very subtle way, harmonious, with lots of cherries, from the attack to the lingering finish, presenting a light touch of earthiness in the end (touch herbaceous?) but not in a bad way. What a great wine! Kudos to Véronique Boss-Drouhin. My grandfather used to say that: “A wine often resembles its maker!” Well, here is a perfect example: refined, delicate, precise, seductive, and feminine.   

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Limited Edition Wines - Jacques Selosse - Marc Colin - Laurent Ponsot

 

Limited Edition Wines

Jacques Selosse - Marc Colin - Laurent Ponsot

Jacques Selosse Exquise Champagne Sec (RP04) NV

Usually made with the same blend, “Exquise” is Selosse’s slightly sweeter version of “Initial.” While most Selosse wines are extra-brut, this cuvée is a rare exception: a rich, sweet-style Blanc de Blancs crafted from Chardonnay from Grand Cru vineyards, mainly Avize, Cramant, and Oger. The higher sugar dosage of 22-24 g/l provides a creamier texture and a subtly sweeter finish. 

On the nose, Jacques Selosse's "Exquise" offers delicate aromas of brioche, honey, apple, and pastry. The palate is very aromatic, fresh, rich, and juicy, yet balanced by high acidity and mineral notes, with ripe peach, pear, and toasted nuances. The elevated, sweet dosage is balanced by the house’s slightly oxidative style, creating a complex Champagne that’s recommended with desserts but also suitable as an aperitif (as was the case that day). Lovely!

Production ranges from 1,000 to 3,600 bottles per year, making this limited Champagne highly sought after.

Domaine Marc Colin et Fils Montrachet Grand Cru Burgundy 2017

Domaine Marc Colin was founded in the 1970s and expanded during the 1980s and 1990s by Marc and his wife, Michele. Their four children followed their example. Pierre-Yves took his part of the family vineyards to start his own wineries in the early 2000s, while Damien, Joseph, and Caroline now run the Domaine, managing around 12 hectares across 26 appellations. From their cellar in St. Aubin, Damien produces a superb selection of wines that are both pure and expressive. The work in the vineyards and cellar is kept as simple as possible, with careful attention to detail. 

Based on the excellent, high-quality vintage for white Burgundy, the 2017 Domaine Marc Colin et Fils Montrachet Grand Cru is a rare and highly sought-after wine that offers breathtaking elegance, intense minerality, and concentration, with notes of white peach, hazelnut, and honey. Although enjoyable now, it will benefit from a few more years in the cellar to reach peak maturity. Beautiful wine!

This Montrachet is made from a 0.06 ha parcel of 75+-year-old vines on the Chassagne side. Only 275 liters were produced—which is roughly the equivalent of less than 2 Burgundy barrels, or about 366 bottles—and it was aged in 50% new wood. 

Laurent Ponsot Griotte Chambertin Grand Cru An Zero Burgundy 2015

Laurent Ponsot was born into a winegrowing family in Morey-St.-Denis in the 1950s. He grew up working alongside his father, Jean-Marie Ponsot, at the family’s Domaine Ponsot, among barrels, vats, and vines. For a while in his 20s, Laurent lived in Paris and built a successful travel agency there. In 1981, Laurent returned to Domaine Ponsot, where he became the fourth generation of his family to serve as winemaker. After 36 years, Laurent left the family Domaine in February 2017 to pursue a new wine venture. He is joined in this new effort, simply called Laurent Ponsot, by his son Clément. Above all, Laurent Ponsot remains a vine grower and continues to farm a core set of Burgundian appellations.

The 2015 vintage was his first to produce this wine, which is why the “An Zero”, meaning “Year Zero”, appears on the labels of his 2015 vintage wines, signifying the inaugural release of his new negociant business, Laurent Ponsot SAS, after he left the family estate, Domaine Ponsot. While 2015 was the initial release ("An Zero"), Ponsot considers 2016 to be the first "bona fide" vintage for his new project, with wines named after trees (reds) or flowers (whites), for example, the “An Zero” cuvee has been renamed as “Cuvee du Saule”. Laurent Ponsot focuses on high-quality, sustainably farmed Burgundy wines with zero new oak, low sulphur, and innovative, "connected" packaging designed to ensure authenticity and temperature control.

Laurent Ponsot Griotte Chambertin “An Zero” 2015 is a beautifully crafted wine, boasting a spicy, elegant, and fresh nose with aromas of ripe red and dark cherries, cassis, plum, violet, and subtle earthy notes. The palate is medium-bodied, with flavors of dark cherries and blueberries. It is well-structured and of good length, with supple tannins and balanced acidity, though a somewhat austere heartiness persists on the finish. Some may describe it as refined elegance, but I would have preferred a bit more substance and minerality to enhance it. Overall, this is a very good wine, though a bit dry and austere for my taste; it might benefit from a few more years of aging. 

Only a few barrels are produced, making this wine's availability very scarce.

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Elegance & Minerality

Elegance & Minerality

Opened recently for a private dinner, I love these wines for their elegance and minerality.  

2016 Pierre Peters Cuvée Spéciale 'Les Chétillons' Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Champagne Brut

It was my first time trying this cuvee in the 2016 vintage, and it was delightful. This 100% Chardonnay was disgorged in 2023, with a gentle dosage of 4 g/L. The result is beautifully crafted champagne, pure and mineral, offering delightful, fresh notes of chalky minerality, citrus fruits, and lemon. The palate is sharp, focused, and smooth, with lively acidity. The finish is quite long, with a lovely mineral expression. In fact, it drinks more like a wine rather than a champagne. A refined and enjoyable experience. Kudos to #rodolphepeters!

2020 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru Burgundy

I know this bottle well, as I have opened quite a few bottles of this wine lately. Beyond its pale-yellow hue, the nose was light, fresh, and refined, with notable minerality, yellow stone fruits, and zesty citrus notes. Initially slightly restrained, the palate gradually opened, showcasing a fresh, dry, mineral texture with good density, abundant lemon flavors, sharp acidity, and subtle buttery, toasted oak nuances. Although somewhat light for a Batard-Montrachet compared with some of its peers, it was very pleasant, more mineral, fresh, elegant, and subtle than rich or powerful, without shading its complexity. Nicely done!

2020 Domaine Pierre Girardin Echezeaux Grand Cru Burgundy

Son of Vincent Girardin, Pierre Girardin, a 13th-generation winemaker, established his own Domaine in 2017 and quickly became one of the rising stars of the Côte de Nuits, focusing on sustainable viticulture and capturing precise terroir expression in his wines. That’s exactly what this Echezeaux 2020 is all about: a stylish wine with aromas of dark cherry, blackberry, violet, and spice, along with earthy notes, a velvety texture, and refined tannins. The wine is elegant and finely structured rather than purely powerful, with high cellaring potential. It is surely too young to be opened now, but for a Sommelier, it is important to taste wine at various stages of its life to be able to follow its evolution and convey the right message to his or her customers. Lovely!

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: An earthy and mineral combination!

An earthy and mineral combination!

Henri Giraud Aÿ Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Champagne Brut 2013

I love Henri Giraud's champagnes, and this Blanc de Blancs 2013 was delightful. In the glass, it displayed a pale golden color with fine bubbles. Although slightly timid at first, the nose showed nutty and stone-fruit aromas, along with toasted, oaky, salty, and savory notes. The palate boasted ample richness and complexity, with excellent balance and freshness, featuring the same flavors as on the nose, enhanced by a lovely minerality from the attack through the long finish. Nicely done!

Philippe Colin Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru Burgundy 2019

Philippe Colin is a classic in my book. I have always loved his wines and cannot get enough of them, and this 2019 Chevalier-Montrachet was stunning! What struck me most about this wine was its minerality and sense of purity. I often describe minerality as fresh water flowing over a rock, like a waterfall or a gentle stream, and that’s precisely the image I had in mind when I tasted this wine. It combines freshness, minerality, purity, ripeness, and complexity exquisitely. It offers aromas of yellow fruits and citrus zest with buttery and mineral nuances. Focused, tense, and sharp, yet so suave, coating and gracious from beginning to the seamless, lingering finish. Gorgeous wine!

Domaine Trapet Latricieres-Chambertin Grand Cru Burgundy 2005

Formerly named Domaine Louis Trapet, the estate split in 1993, creating two separate entities: Domaine Rossignol-Trapet and the renamed Domaine Trapet Père et Fils, now run by Jean-Louis Trapet, son of Jean, and his wife. The domaine became known for pioneering biodynamic farming in the mid-1990s. This wine comes from a single parcel with some of the oldest vines on the property, planted in 1938. From an outstanding Burgundy vintage, this 2005 Latricieres-Chambertin shows ripeness, power, and richness, yet remains very elegant, offering black fruits and berries mingling with mineral, spicy, and earthy nuances. Despite its velvety texture, the tannins are present yet integrated, and the finish is earthy, a signature of most Trapet wines (in my opinion), meaning well-crafted, harmonious, and clean, yet always with that touch of terroir-driven earthiness. Lovely wine.

Château Lynch-Bages Pauillac Bordeaux 1990

I was really pleased to open this bottle because I had not tried the 1990 vintage in the past 5-6 years and did not know what to expect. It showed beautifully. I did not decant it, and it was fine that way. 1990 is a Bordeaux vintage I really like. I have been opening countless bottles of various Bordeaux from this vintage over the past 30 years, and most of them aged and evolved gracefully. Lynch Bages 1990 is definitely one of them.  

In the glass, it displayed a dark, intense color with a light brownish hue. The nose was fragrant with attractive secondary and tertiary aromas of black currants, cedarwood, mocha, and underbrush combined with earthy and spicy notes. The palate is rich and complex, quite ample and voluptuous, harmonious and fully integrated, with good structure and texture, leading to a seamless finish with this soil-oriented earthiness so characteristic of Lynch-Bages. Excellent wine! 

Some may argue it will last for years to come (which is likely true), but, in my opinion, it has reached its full potential and is now in a perfect window of drinkability. I do not believe that it will get better than it is now with a few more years in the bottle, but that's just me.      

Life is too short to drink bad wine!

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Champagne Jacquesson Dizy Corne Bautray Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs 2012

Champagne Jacquesson Dizy Corne Bautray Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs 2012

Crafted from a single 1-ha vineyard in the “lieu-dit” of “Corne Bautray” within the commune of Dizy (Vallée de la Marne), planted exclusively with old Chardonnay vines (planted in 1960) and ranked as “Premier Cru,” Dizy Corne Bautray 2012 is an exceptional Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne.

An appealing nose with scents of hazelnuts, apricots, peach pits, walnuts, lemons, and pie crust. Crisp and tangy flavors complemented by a smooth, expansive mousse. Fresh, well-balanced, and structured. Finishes with saline notes, long-lasting and mineral.

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Ideal drinking window

Ideal drinking window

Recently opened and served for a private dinner, these wines were stunning, showing their full potential and in the ideal window for drinking. 

Most wines have opening and closing periods, and it can be difficult to predict their ideal drinking windows. 

All wine professionals usually speculate about when it could happen, but this is just a lucky guess, an estimate without really knowing when it will be for sure. 

But when you've been waiting for the right time to come, and right at opening, you realize the wine is fully open, displaying all its complexity and potential, having reached its ideal drinking window. It is an incredibly satisfying reward for your taste buds. 

Jacquesson Dizy Corne Bautray Extra-Brut Champagne 2009

Jacquesson has been one of my favorite champagne houses for the past 3 decades. It is also sentimental, as "Jacques" is my son's name, which gives me a good excuse to open a bottle now and then. The champagnes of Jacquesson have been the subject of many posts on my blog, and it is always a pleasure to pop the cork of these beautifully crafted champagnes.   

Crafted from a single 1-ha vineyard in the “lieu-dit” of “Corne Bautray” within the commune of Dizy (Vallée de la Marne), planted exclusively with old Chardonnay vines (planted in 1960) and ranked as “Premier Cru,” Dizy Corne Bautray 2009 is an exceptional Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne.

The 2009 Jacquesson Dizy Corne Bautray Extra-Brut is a gentle, round, and delicate Champagne that is also rich and complex. The nose offers discreet yet expressive aromas of wild, fresh almonds and yellow stone fruit, mingling with toasted brioche and mineral notes. The palate is warm, round, generous, and ample, incredibly balanced (even if some of you would want a little more acidity), focused, with a gentle texture and refined structure. The finish is long and immediately calls for another glass (like all the wines tasted that day). Gorgeous Champagne!   

NB: The recently tasted 2012 vintage was fresher, zestier, and sharper than this 2009 vintage. And yet, 2009 is so complex, yet elegant and aristocratic in its own way; it is too difficult and maybe unfair to compare them, as both offer a tremendous experience for the palate.     

Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Boudriotte" Burgundy 2018

Located in Chassagne-Montrachet, Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet is one of the leading producers of Burgundy and probably the most famous in Chassagne-Montrachet.  

Today, third-generation winemaker Jean-Claude Ramonet leads the domaine, while his brother Noël manages the family vines. The next generation is now engaged in the business: Jean-Claude's daughters, Anne-France and Clarisse, assist in the cellar and office, whereas Noël's sons, Michael and Pierre, work with him in the vineyards and develop their own winemaking ventures.

Ramonet cultivates vines across a prestigious 17-hectare mosaic, showcasing appellation levels from Bourgogne to Grand Cru. Premier Crus like Les Ruchottes and Clos de la Boudriotte, along with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that historically defined the domaine, receive similar recognition as their top-tier counterparts. Other distinguished vineyards include Bâtard-Montrachet, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, Cailleret, and Chaumées. In the traditional Burgundian style, Ramonet also produces small quantities of Aligoté and Gamay.

The house is celebrated for its pure, complex, and age-worthy white wines, produced from low-yielding, old vines, especially those in the renowned Grand Cru vineyards, with Montrachet as its flagship.

Domaine Ramonet's iconic status, high quality, and limited production (around 100,000 bottles annually) make its wines among the most sought-after Burgundies among international collectors.

Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Boudriotte 2018 was also very nice. The nose displayed floral and mineral aromas, combined with yellow-fruit and buttery, oaky nuances. The palate was almost like drinking a soft, buttery juice, but in a good way. It was soft, creamy, silky, coating, concentrated, and harmonious, with great minerality and zestiness, leading to an even more coating finish, with lots of buttery flavors all the way through. What a lovely wine!     

Château Léoville-Las-Cases Saint-Julien Bordeaux 2009

When discussing wines that go through opening and closing periods, Chateau Leoville-Las-Cases, considered a rather classic Bordeaux style (rather than a modern one), is definitely a great example.  

Having tasted this wine countless times over the past 34 years, En primeur, at the barrel, and in all the bottles I opened in my long career, I can tell you that it is a rather capricious wine that goes through up-and-down phases. 

I was a little skeptical at first, having not tried the 2009 in a long time, about whether it would be open or closed. And yet it was so perfect and opened, it inspired the title of this post, as I truly believe it is now in one of these ideal drinking windows, as it showed fantastically well.   

Dense and opaque, with an attractive color in the glass. The nose is expressive and charming, ripe yet fresh, with dark berries, cassis, tobacco, and mocha aromas, along with spicy, earthy, and oaky notes. The palate is gorgeously harmonious and integrated, rich and complex yet round and suave, nearly flawless, offering similar flavors as on the nose but with more depth, excellent texture and structure enhanced by great freshness (surprising for a 2009 vintage), no angularities, no edges, from the attack to the long, lingering, seamless finish. Stunning wine! So fresh, complex, sophisticated, and youthful! To be enjoyed now before it closes down again for a period of time.    

NB: The guests and I compared this Leoville-Las-Cases 2009 with the following wine, Mouton-Rothschild 2009, and we all found that LLC was showing so much better than its First Growth counterpart.  

Chateau Mouton-Rothschild Pauillac Bordeaux 2009

This bottle was brought by one of the guests. And it was also very good, but coming after such an incredible Leoville-Las-Cases 2009, it seemed to lack freshness, substance, and integration. And as both reds were from the same vintage, we thought it would be a great experience to compare them. Let me explain.  

Although Mouton-Rothschild 2009 is also rich, complex, and concentrated, and seductive in its own style, it tasted less friendly and showed less harmony and integration, with more roughness and earthiness than Leoville-Las-Cases 2009. And more particularly, it definitely lacked the freshness and fruitiness that the Saint-Julien offered. 

Mouton showed more of the characteristics of the hot 2009 vintage, riper and darker fruits, opulence, and a more full-bodied palate, yet less fresh and less sexy than the LLC 2009. Opaque color in the glass, too. On the nose, it revealed aromas of plum and cassis, licorice, coffee, and chocolate, with some earthy, oaky, and smoky nuances. The palate is also rich and complex, but, as mentioned earlier, less harmonious, less fruity, less integrated, and definitely less fresh and less together than LLC. 

Does that make it a bad wine? No, absolutely not. Mouton 2009 is also a gorgeous wine in its own way, with the potential to age for years to come. And yet, compared to LCC, it didn't offer the freshness, purity of fruit, or seamless integration. Maybe Mouton 2009 is not yet in its ideal drinking window.  

To conclude: Maybe we shouldn't have compared them; maybe we should have tasted and enjoyed each wine for what it is and how it is. Yet, being from the same vintage, with one a first growth and the other a second growth, it was too tempting not to do so, and by doing so, it was also too tempting not to revive the eternal debate (often discussed here on my blog) about how some second and third growths often outrank some first growths, showing how obsolete and in need of a total revision the 1855 classification really is.       

That's all, folks, for today, but stay tuned for more posts to come! 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom 

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LeDomduVin: Château Pontet-Canet Pauillac 2006

Château Pontet-Canet Pauillac 2006

Pontet-Canet is one of my favorite Pauillac wines. I have been buying this wine for 34 years and have never been disappointed. I visited the chateau numerous times in the 2000s, and it was always a pleasure to taste their wines during the En Primeur campaigns. 

It is a classic in my book and surely one of the best values in the Haut-Médoc and Pauillac appellations. 

Why? Because it is a Fifth Growth that tastes like and can easily compete with the Third and Second growths (even First), in terms of quality and consistency, and comes at a fifth of the price of a First growth. 

Moreover, Chateau Pontet-Canet is a powerful, pure, and terroir-driven wine crafted using biodynamic viticulture (horse-drawn plowing and minimal intervention) and innovative winemaking (concrete amphorae and partial destemming). So, what's not to like? 

Opened recently, the 2006 Pontet-Canet was a delight! Extremely dense and dark in the glass (as always). The nose offered beautiful aromas of red and dark berries mingling with floral and earthy notes, tertiary hints, and oaky nuances. The palate is rich, complex, generous, and voluptuous, with a velvety texture enhanced by enough freshness to keep it balanced, round, earthy, and present yet integrated tannins make up for a great structure. The finish is long, chewy, and earthy. What a lovely wine! 

Even if I did not do that that day, it would probably have benefited from being decanted about 45 minutes before serving. Despite its age, it remains youthful, so you can wait a few more years for it to reach its full potential. 

Kudos to the Tesseron Family! 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Jeaunaux Robin "Éclats de Meulière" Champagne Brut Nature NV

Jeaunaux Robin "Éclats de Meulière" Champagne Brut Nature NV

A blend of 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir, and 10% Chardonnay, this Artisan Vigneron champagne is a delight for your taste buds: light, easygoing, crisp, fresh, dry, and not pretending to be anything other than a clean, zesty, well-crafted champagne.

Perfect as an apéritif with some oysters, fishy bites, and appetizers. 

Some of you may find it lacks body, weight, or complexity, yet at this price (around 46 euros), this Champagne is a steal, offering plenty of juice, balance, texture, and substance in a subtle, elegant way. 

A friendly and enjoyable champagne!

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Nice little tasting of some of the wines of JC Garnier (Auxey-Duresses, Burgundy)

Dominique Noël (LeDomduVin) & Vincent Garnier of JC Garnier Père et Fils

Nice little tasting of some of the wines of JC Garnier (Auxey-Duresses, Burgundy)

A pleasant surprise! Nice little tasting of some of the wines of @jc_garnierperefils, with Vincent Garnier (5th generation) and Tony Wong, his importer/distributor here, in HK, at WVinery (@wvinery_official).

Vincent Garnier of JC Garnier Père et Fils, Dominique Noël (LeDomduVin) & Tony Wong of WVinery

We tasted the red first, which is relatively uncommon, especially compared to Bordeaux wines, where whites are usually tasted before the reds. Very Burgundian! Loved it. And I loved the wines, too. 

Tony Wong of WVinery & Vincent Garnier of JC Garnier Père et Fils 

We tasted: 

Bourgogne rouge Côtes d'Auxerre 2023

Nice, light, sharp, and refreshing, with notes of wild red cherries and strawberries. Perfect as an aperitif! 

Auxey-Duresses Rouge Cuvée d'Antan 2023

Very attractive nose of dark fruits, black cherries, blackberries, mingling with floral notes, and smoky nuances. Medium-bodied, yet dense and generous, with an outstanding balance and a juicy finish. Loved it!

Pommard Les Petits Noizons 2023

A bit subdued on the nose, with dark fruits, earthy notes, and more pronounced minerality. The palate is complex and layered delicately and elegantly. It is very approachable now, but it would deserve a few more years to develop its full potential. 

Saint-Bris Mont Embrasé 2023

Beautiful, easy-going wine! A Sauvignon Blanc with the attributes of a Chardonnay. Touch grassy and zesty with good acidity and minerality. Lovely! 

Auxey-Duresses Blanc Vieilles Vignes 2023

On the nose and on the palate, this wine could easily be mistaken for a Meursault in a blind tasting. A lot of minerality, combined with a gentle touch of butteriness. Nicely done! 

Vincent Garnier of JC Garnier Père et Fils 

As discussed with Vincent Garnier, all these wines shared a few commonalities. And what I loved about them is that they were clean and focused, with no angularities, from beginning to end. 

It was a pleasant surprise and discovery, too, as I had never tasted the wines of JC Garnier before. 

Thank you to the Gentry Club Team for organizing the tasting and inviting me to taste these wines. Thank you to Vincent and his family for their wines and to Tony for helping bring them to Hong Kong. 

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Subtle Power

Subtle power 

I recently selected and served these wines for a private dinner, and I hadn't tasted them in a while. I was expecting them to be rich and exuberant, but in the end, their strength lay in their subtlety. 

Dom Ruinart Champagne Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2010

Dom Ruinart exclusively selects Chardonnay from primarily Grand Cru sites. 90% of the Chardonnay grapes are sourced from the Côte des Blancs (including Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Avize, Chouilly, and Cramant), planted in the Côte’s famous white, calcareous chalky soil where it excels, benefiting from an easterly exposure. The remaining 10% comes from the north-facing Montagne de Reims, specifically from Maison Ruinart's historic vineyard, located in the Grand Cru areas of the village of Sillery.

Dom Ruinart 2010 represents a significant milestone. In its pursuit of excellence, Maison Ruinart extended the wine's aging process to reveal additional layers of flavor. For this cuvée, the oenological team decided to reintroduce cork during aging, confirming its benefits through years of tastings. After at least 9 years ageing on its lees, it is notable that the cork has imparted a woody character to this vintage, in addition to the aromas of grilled almonds and coffee on the nose and palate. Extra Brut with a dosage of 4 g/L.  

Beyond its pale yellow gold color, the nose is aromatic and fresh, offering aromas of yellow and stone fruits mingling with floral, mineral, toasted, and nutty notes. Overall, the palate is generous, ample, and layered, lingering somewhat, although not as long as I would have liked; yet the finish is fresh and elegant, elevated by a subtle bitterness. As it is neither too heavy nor too light, it is a good champagne to bring to any occasion, ideal as an aperitif with appetizers. A real quaffer!    

Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres 2020

Vincent Bitouzet’s family history in Burgundy spans the last two centuries, with the Bitouzets among the earliest families in the area to bottle their own wines. Vincent’s grandfather received awards for his winemaking in 1860. When Vincent married Annie Prieur, they merged parts of their family estates to establish a renowned domaine. Now, their son Francois Bitouzet, Vincent and Annie’s son, is actively collaborating with his parents.

Based in Volnay, with significant holdings in Meursault, the domaine covers 12 hectares, roughly four of which are planted with Chardonnay, and the remaining eight with Pinot Noir. They practice organic viticulture, and the harvest is manually done. Classic Burgundian winemaking methods are used, using only indigenous yeasts.

The Bitouzet-Prieur family owns just over a quarter-hectare of Chardonnay, planted in 1983, in the lower part of this renowned premier cru "Les Perrières Dessous," located right above "Les Charmes" on the slope. The Meursault-Perrières is probably the most dazzling mineral wine in their collection. While it can be closed when young, it gradually opens up into a stunning white Burgundy with layered complexity. 

I was unsure what to expect from this wine, as it was my first time trying it.  I previously tried other wines from Bitouzet-Prieur, but never this particular one. I'm not sure why I always want to say "Bizoutet" ("Bizouter" is a slang in French that means "kissing" or "giving kisses", which would be a nice and funny name) instead of "Bitouzet". 

However, I was pleasantly surprised, as instead of being a powerhouse of creamy butter, popcorn, and toasted oak flavors, as some Meursault can be (those that are more New World-style than the New World Chardonnays themselves), this wine is all about subtlety, refinement, and elegance. The oak treatment is present but barely noticeable, as only about 25-30% new oak is used during its 16-month aging process, making it significantly more palatable and enjoyable than those using 100% new oak.  

At first, I misinterpreted its subtlety and elegance as a lack of body and weight. I wanted more from it, more fruit, more substance, more backbone. However, it then began to reveal itself after a few seconds. I tasted it again, and then it hit me. It was beautiful and charming. Fresh, light, and elegant yet complex and layered, it was like a ballerina, showcasing power, balance, precision, and sophistication in a subtle and graceful manner. If timid, the nose is fresh and mineral, with aromas of yellow fruits and citrus, combined with a gentle hint of buttery, toasted oak and herbal nuances. The palate is soft, silky, elegant, and refined, gently expanding towards the long, fresh, and mineral finish. Loved it!                   

Drouhin-Laroze Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru 2016

Domaine Drouhin-Laroze has been a family-owned estate for over 150 years, featuring numerous prestigious appellations in the top-tier Premier Cru and Grand Cru categories, which showcases a rich heritage. Today, Philippe and Christine Drouhin, along with their children, manage the estate.

Drouhin-Laroze's Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru comes from an east-facing plot at 260 meters elevation, where the vines were planted in 1973 and 1986. The monks of Bèze established a chapel at that location in 1155. It was reconstructed in 1457 before eventually being destroyed, and it is the origin of the name of the appellation.

Those who follow me for a while know that I'm a huge fan of wines with "Chambertin" in the name. Why? The wines of Gevrey-Chambertin, from the village wines to the Premier Crus and Grands Crus, are some of the most versatile wines of all Burgundy. For a Sommelier like me, they are the easiest to pair with. And this Chapelle-Chambertin from Drouhin Laroze confirmed this rule. 

The 2016 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru features approximately 30% whole-bunch fruit, which adds complexity, texture, and structure. Right after opening, the nose displays fresh aromas of ripe red cherries and berries, mingling with floral, mineral, oaky, and earthy notes, reminiscent of a forest floor, but springier than autumnal. Light to medium-bodied, the palate remains quite subtle and could have benefited from a bit more volume and substance. And yet, it is clean, focused, refined, elegant, and sophisticated in its subtlety, with a finely textured and structured palate that is well-balanced between fruit and acidity, and a silky mouthfeel and fine tannins, all culminating in a lingering mineral earthy finish. Loved it.  

Chateau Lynch-Bages Pauillac Bordeaux 2005

Château Lynch-Bages, situated at the entrance to Pauillac, is a notable estate that has significantly influenced the history of the Médoc wine region. The terroir surrounding the area and the old village of Bages has been recognized since the 16th century, but it achieved broader fame in the 18th century.

According to "The Wine Insider," the Dejean family sold the property in 1728 to Pierre Drouillard. In 1749, Drouillard passed the estate to his daughter, Elizabeth, who was married to Thomas Lynch. That’s how the estate became part of the Lynch family, where it remained for seventy-five years and later on inspired the name "Lynch Bages". (*)

In the 1930s, Jean-Charles Cazes, already managing Les Ormes de Pez in St. Estèphe, took on a lease for Lynch Bages' vineyards. The Cazes family had a long legacy in Bordeaux dating back to the late 1800s. Jean-Charles Cazes later bought both estates just before World War II. Since then, Lynch Bages and Les-Ormes-de-Pez have remained under the Cazes family's management. (*)

Jean-Michel Cazes, who started as an engineer in Paris, entered the wine industry and began managing the estate in 1973. Soon after, he modernized every aspect of Lynch Bages. Jean-Michel Cazes met more people, traveled more often, and promoted his wines worldwide like no other Château owner. Lynch Bages is now one of the most popular and beloved brands in Bordeaux wine, thanks to Jean Michel Cazes's relentless efforts. It’s interesting to note that Jean-Michel Cazes was one of the first château owners to start promoting their wine in China in 1986. (*)

In June 1989, Lynch Bages inaugurated its new winemaking facilities, perfectly timed to celebrate one of the finest vintages they've ever produced. That same year also saw the opening of the Cordeillan-Bages hotel and restaurant. A few years afterward, the renovated Village de Bages, featuring various shops, was established.(*)

In 2006, Jean-Michel's son, also named Jean-Charles Cazes, became the managing director of Château Lynch-Bages. Jean-Michel Cazes continued to lead the family's wine and tourism division. Thanks to ongoing promotion in the Asian market, Château Lynch-Bages remains one of the strongest brands in the region, especially in China.(*)

A benchmark among fine Pauillac wines and one of the most recognizable Bordeaux labels, especially in the US and Asia, Château Lynch-Bages boasts over 90 hectares of vineyard rooted in the region's characteristic Garonne and lower Gironde estuary gravel soil. The hand-picked grapes are initially sorted in the vineyard and then usually aged for 15 months in about 80% new oak barrels.

A blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot, Lynch-Bages benefited from the notoriously warm, sunny, and dry 2005 vintage. The lower yields, caused by dry conditions and water stress, limited production but improved ripening quality, resulting in high-quality grapes. 

The 2005 Lynch-Bages is very seductive and aromatic on both the nose and the palate. In the glass, the color is deep ruby with a slightly brownish hue. On the nose, it boasts a melange of dark berries, cassis, cedar, graphite, and forest floor aromas, with floral notes (such as violet) and earthy undertones. The palate is unexpectedly soft and gentle, medium-bodied and silky, with present yet fine and well-integrated, ripe tannins that add both texture and structure. It has enough acidity to keep it fresh and lively, and is balanced with the ripeness of the fruit, leading to a long, persistent, and delicious earthy finish. Loved it! 

And, once again, being a Pauillac spawned from the 2005 vintage, I was waiting for a bigger wine with more volume and weight, and yet its strength lay in its subtlety.  Well done!     

These are four elegant, refined, stylish wines with a soft expression and a subtle power. 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

(*) Source: https://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/bordeaux-wine-producer-profiles/bordeaux/pauillac/lynch-bages/ 

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LeDomduVin: Domaine Georges Lignier et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Combottes 2019

Domaine Georges Lignier et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Combottes 2019

Domaine Georges Lignier is an acclaimed Burgundy estate based in Morey-Saint-Denis. Georges Lignier is a cousin of Hubert Lignier. Their two estates possess comparable vineyard holdings and present some similarities, yet Georges Lignier's wines are often seen as more delicate and nuanced. 

Since 2008, Benoît Stehly, Georges' nephew, has been managing the estate.

George Lignier's esteemed vineyard portfolio includes over a hectare of Clos de la Roche, a smaller section of Bonnes Mares, and nearly 1.5 hectares (4 acres) of Clos Saint-Denis, making him the largest owner in that vineyard. Overall, there are 16 hectares (40 acres) of vineyards across 17 appellations, divided into 50 parcels.

Winemaking is generally considered traditional. The fruit is harvested slightly later than usual and is usually 80 percent destemmed. Village wines are aged in used oak, premier cru wines incorporate 30 percent new oak, and grand cru wines include about 50 percent new oak. More recent vintages have been bottled without fining or filtration.

This 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Combottes is an elegant and fresh medium-bodied wine. It displays a medium-intensity red ruby color with attractive reflections. The nose is ripe and fresh simultaneously, offering aromas of ripe blackcurrants and dark fruits mingling with floral and earthy nuances. The palate is elegant, medium-bodied yet complex and juicy, with good acidity and present yet integrated tannins, which add freshness and structure. The finish is quite lovely and earthy. Nicely done with a sublime expression of the terroir! 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Champagne Bollinger R.D. 2008. What a mesmerizing champagne!

Champagne Bollinger R.D. 2008

What a mesmerizing champagne!

The history of Champagne Bollinger starts with an unlikely partnership between a French aristocrat, an ambitious German wine merchant, and a passionate local cellar master.

In 1829, Athanase de Villermont, an aristocrat who inherited a vineyard estate in Aÿ but was barred by his noble status from engaging in commercial trade, teamed up with Joseph Bollinger, a German wine merchant who brought his knowledge of international markets, and Paul Renaudin, a local Champagne expert who managed the cellars and winemaking process, to establish the house of Renaudin-Bollinger & Cie, which later became known as Bollinger.

Joseph Bollinger's expertise in international sales and Renaudin's winemaking skills fuelled the company's success, with Bollinger Champagnes becoming highly sought after by European royalty.

The following decades saw the expansion of the estate and the vineyards.

In 1837, Joseph Bollinger married Louise-Charlotte, Athanase’s daughter. His sons, Joseph and later Georges, eventually took over the business. Under their leadership, Bollinger gained fame and significantly expanded its vineyards.

In 1863, Phylloxera was first recorded in France. This pest devastated most wine regions until the early 20th century. Georges Bollinger led the effort to replant vineyards with American rootstocks to combat the phylloxera pest.

In 1920, Jacques Bollinger, Georges’ son, took over managing the family business and is credited with increasing Bollinger’s sales in England, primarily through the popularity of their Special Cuvée Brut. Jacques's wife, Elisabeth Bollinger, better known as “Madame Jacques,” stepped in to run the business after her husband died during World War II.

In 1950, Claude d’Hautefeuille, the husband of Madame Bollinger's niece, whom she had mentored in the company's operations, became Director and initiated a broad modernization effort that honoured Bollinger’s heritage. Madame Bollinger named him Chairman in 1971, but she stayed actively involved until her passing six years afterward.

In 1978, Christian Bizot, Madame Bollinger’s nephew, succeeded Claude as head of the House. An avid traveler, he actively engaged with sommeliers, restaurant owners, and wine merchants to share and promote the House’s wines during his journeys.

In 1994, Ghislain de Montgolfier, the great-great-grandson of founder Joseph Bollinger, became head of the House. He continued to strive to increase quality, in part by limiting production.

In 2008, Jérôme Philipon, a native of Champagne, was appointed as the new Chairman. Unusually, for the first time in the House's history, someone outside the family took on this role.

In 2017, Jérôme Philipon was appointed Deputy Chief Executive Officer of the family holding, and Charles-Armand de Belenet became General Manager of Champagne Bollinger. He is responsible for maintaining traditional craftsmanship while integrating the latest technologies.

Over the years, Bollinger has established its vineyards in the heart of the finest crus of Champagne. Champagne Bollinger’s 180 hectares of vines consist of 85% Grand and Premier crus, managed by their teams of growers across seven separate vineyards: Aÿ, Avenay, Tauxières, Louvois, and Verzenay for Pinot Noir; around the Montagne de Reims; Cuis for Chardonnay on the Côte des Blancs; and Champvoisy for Meunier in the Vallée de la Marne.

Another distinctive feature of Bollinger is the presence of two plots, Clos Saint-Jacques and Chaudes Terres, which have never been affected by phylloxera. These ungrafted vines are carefully maintained by hand and propagated through a layering method known as provignage. This approach helps preserve this remarkable heritage, which is used to produce the highly exclusive cuvée “Vieilles Vignes Françaises”.

The idea behind what would become “Bollinger R.D.” (which stands for “Récemment Dégorgé” in French, meaning "recently disgorged") was conceived in 1963. Madame Bollinger, along with her American agent, decided to sell a few bottles of “Réserve 1947”. 

Although they believed all their champagnes were of high quality and saw no need for a Special or Prestige cuvée, other Champagne houses had such offerings. Therefore, the goal was to compete with the “bouteilles spéciales” or “prestige cuvées” of other Champagne houses.

Madame Bollinger’s brilliant idea was to select an old vintage that was recently disgorged and dosed like an Extra Brut. The recent disgorgement ensures the wine's exceptional freshness and complexity.

In 1967, after some hesitation over the definitive name for the cuvée, Bollinger R.D. (Recently Disgorged) was finally chosen. Three vintages were released simultaneously: 1952 in the English market, 1953 in Switzerland and France, and 1955 in the United States and Italy. It was this vintage, followed by 1959, that established the cuvée's truly international reputation. And the rest is history!

Label of Champagne Bollinger R.D. 2008 (disgorged on October 28th, 2022) (*)

 

Champagne Bollinger R.D. 2008 Extra Brut (Disgorged December 9th, 2022) 

Bollinger R.D. Extra Brut 2008 is a beautiful vintage champagne with exceptional quality and complexity. It is a blend of 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay, from a total of 18 crus, mostly Aÿ and Verzenay for Pinot Noir and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Cramant for Chardonnay. The fermentation occurred entirely in oak barrels. It was aged for about 14 years on its lees and released with a very low dosage at just 3 grams per litre (Extra Brut). The result is flamboyant, vibrant, flavorful, layered, rich, complex, ample, and structured, enhanced with great acidity, and developing brilliantly from the attack to the long, lingering finish. Loved it. 

This champagne is as mesmerizing as looking at the labels with these golden reflections, which I captured in the picture I've put as a header for this post. 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom 

(*) NB: I could not find the label of the Cuvée disgorged on December 09, 2022, like in my picture. So, I put this one, disgorged on October 28th, 2022. Some larger formats, magnum and double-magnum, have been disgorged on November 17th, 2022. 

Sources: Info mostly taken and edited by and for www.ledomduvin.com courtesy of https://www.champagne-bollinger.com/en

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