LeDomduVin: Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2019 - Real or fake? Vraie ou fausse bouteille?

Domaine Leflaive & Associés 

Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2019… 

Real ou fake? Vraie ou fausse bouteille?

Mais d'où vient cet "OVNI"? (objet à valeur non identifiée 😜)

Une fois n'est pas coutume, je vais faire ce post en français, en espérant avoir une réponse de nos amis(ies) Bourguignons(nes) ou autres connaisseurs et amateurs(trices).

J'ai bien essayé de contacter Domaine Leflaive, mais ils sont en vacances jusqu'à la semaine prochaine.

J'ai trouvé cette bouteille en faisant un inventaire chez un particulier, et, personnellement, en 32 ans de carrière, je n'ai jamais vu de bouteilles du "Domaine Leflaive" et/ou "Domaine Leflaive & Associés" arborer un œuvre d'art ou peinture (ou quoi que ce soit d'autre) sur l'étiquette, qui plus est "non signée"...🤔🤔🤔

Même la contre-étiquette me paraît bizarre...De plus, Bâtard-Montrachet est normalement produit par le Domaine..🤔🤔🤔

Même la soi-disant "NFC" ("anti-counterfeiting label" ou "étiquette anti-contrefaçon" en français) demande de "scanner" la contre-étiquette, où il n'y a rien à scanner... là encore bizarre...🤔🤔🤔

J'ai même pris une photo du cul de la bouteille pour une identification plus précise.

Donc voilà, en tant qu'ancien Directeur Control Qualité, je suis curieux, et n'ayant ni la réponse, ni l'expérience d'un tel cas d'étiquette pour Domaine Leflaive & Associés et n'ayant rien trouvé non plus sur internet, je vous pose les questions suivantes:

Est-ce une vraie ou fausse bouteille?

Est-ce une contrefaçon ou une série particulière et limitée?

Pour quelle raison cette étiquette est-elle différente?

Si c'est une vraie étiquette, qui est l'artiste?

Et pourquoi il ou elle n'a pas signée son œuvre?

Aucune explication sur la contre-etiquette non plus, pourquoi?

Si la NFC est aussi vraie, pourquoi n'y a-t-il rien à scanner?

Et si c'est une fausse, faites le moi savoir aussi, car il faudra que j'informe son propriétaire, car c'est une bouteille qui vaut environ 1,400 Euros en moyenne, ce qui n'est pas rien.

Voilà, à vous de jouer.

Dom

Réponse:

J'ai enfin une réponse ! Obtenue le 4 septembre 2023, après avoir contacté le Domaine directement, j'ai eu confirmation que cette bouteille est une vraie bouteille.

Sans vraiment rentrer dans les détails, tout ce que je peux vous dire est qu’une petite parcelle de Bâtard-Montrachet appartenant à une personne fortunée est vinifiée par le Domaine Leflaive. D'où l'existence de ce « Bâtard-Montrachet » produit en petites quantités sous l'étiquette « Leflaive & Associés » et non pas « Domaine Leflaive ». Les œuvres sur l'étiquette, apparemment différentes chaque année, sont choisies par son propriétaire, et aucune explication ne m'a été donnée sur la raison du pourquoi celle-ci n'est pas signée ou ne mentionne pas le nom de son auteur/autrice. Ces bouteilles ne sont pas destinées à la vente, mais réservées à la consommation et au bon vouloir de son ou sa propriétaire, et donc normalement introuvables sur le marché. La raison de la présence de cette bouteille trouvée dans cette cave privée est qu'elle a été donnée en cadeau au propriétaire de cette cave, qui est surement un ami de la personne propriétaire de cette petite parcelle de Bâtard-Montrachet. Voila ! Vous en savez autant que moi. Et si vous avez la chance de croiser une telle bouteille, c’est une vraie et son propriétaire connait surement la personne fortunée qui lui a offert.

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

 

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LeDomduVin: Egly-Ouriet Brut Grand Cru Millesime 2008

Egly-Ouriet Brut Grand Cru Millesime 2008

I took this picture from that angle to showcase the magnificence of the Champagne, as it was genuinely GRAND! 

Egly-Ouriet is a difficult Champagne to get as its production is tiny, demand is high, and stocks from distributors and retailers usually go really fast. 

I was lucky to secure this last bottle of 2008 from my supplier. Lucky, as well as I never tried this vintage before. I was truly impressed. 

Impressed because right at opening, it boasted enticing aromas of ripe apple and yellow fruits, with citrus notes and baked bread, toasted, buttery, yeasty nuances that resonated and are amplified in the palate. 

Impressed also by its mesmerizing brownish-golden colour denoting a certain age, some could take it as a flaw, yet it suits this beautiful nectar crafted from old vines in Ambonnay perfectly. 

Impressed as the multidimensional palate is a delight for your taste buds: intense, full-bodied, generously expanding, deep, rich, structured, textured and layered, coating with great depth and concentration, vibrant and lively, elegant and sophisticated, long and immensely satisfying. Gorgeous! 

I was also impressed as this Champagne got its unique complexity, richness and characteristics from being aged on its lees for a mindblowing 129 months, that's 10 years and 9 months, before being disgorged in April 2020. 

There are not enough adjectives for me to describe this exceptional Champagne. It would be best if you tried it to understand what I'm trying to say. 

Impressive! Thank you, Mr Francis Egly, for this gem! 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom 

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LeDomduVin: Trio de Choc (again)

Trio de Choc (again)

Opened this weekend, these 3 bottles were terrific. 

Egly-Ouriet brut Grand Cru Millesime 2008 (see next post for description)

Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet 2019

I fell in love with Leflaive when I tried their Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles 1992 for the first time, back in 1997. It was a revelation, and Leflaive has remained one of my favourite burgundy producers ever since. 

Domaine Leflaive stands among the world's leading wine estates, renowned for crafting some of Burgundy's most coveted white wines. The Leflaive family has a rich legacy dating back to 1717, and their Domaine spans over 23 hectares of vineyards throughout Grand Cru, 1er Cru, Village, and AOC levels in the Puligny region.

Although considered the smallest of the 3 Grands Crus, after Montrachet and Batard-Montrachet, it remains a fantastic wine, displaying a lot of character, personality, depth and complexity, outstanding balance between the yellow and citrus fruits and the refreshing acidity, ample, generous, yet elegant and lively mouthfeel. Long finish. Loved it. Still very young. Decanting is a must. 

Claude Dugat Griotte Chambertin Grand Cru 2020

Coming after its little brother, the Charmes Chambertin, opened a few days ago, the Griotte-Chambertin felt even better and greater. I felt privileged and humble as this wine is produced in small quantities. (which might explain why it is twice more expensive 😋🤙 🍷). 

Despite being way too young, I could not resist the temptation to open it. What an outstanding wine! Full of life and sophistication, with flavours of red berries mingling with floral, spicy, earthy notes. Complex and well-rounded wine with lively acidity, ripe tannins, and a long, intensely fragrant finish. Keep it in the cellar for a few more years or even a decade. It will surely reward you even more.

Loved it. 

Cheers! Santé!

Dom 

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LeDomduVin: Mise en place for the weekend, and once again, great lineup!!!

Mise en place for the weekend, 

and once again, great lineup!!!

This week has been a series of great lineups, one after another, mostly centred along the grand crus of Champagne, Puligny and Chassagne-Montrachet, and Gevrey-Chambertin. 

And this weekend is no exception. This is exciting. Look at these wines. 

Egly-Ouriet Brut Grand Cru Millesime 2008 (previous ones this week were 2013)

Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2019

Claude Dugat Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru 2020 

Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2018

I'm having a lot of fun making these selections and buying, opening, tasting, and serving these wines for the events and dinners. 

It is not "work" when you're passionate and having fun doing it. Man, I love my job!!!

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Selection for tonight’s dinner

Selection for tonight’s dinner 

Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru Millésime 2008

Bruno Colin Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2020

Claude Dugat Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2020

No description, unfortunately, as I selected and delivered these wines to the restaurant where the patron and his guests will consume them over a really nice Thai fusion food menu. But, I will not be the one who will open, taste and serve them. So sad 😞😞😩😉😁👍

Yet, if they don’t drink them all, I might have another occasion to taste them. 🤞🤞🤞

Great lineup once again. It is very exciting. I love weeks like this, with many dinners and events, which give me a good excuse to buy, open, taste and serve great wines. Man, I love my job!!!

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Last night's wines! Nice lineup again...

Last night's wines! Nice lineup again.

It may seem that these wines are the same as the ones from Monday night. However, apart from Marc Colin, the other two are different.

On Monday, I opened Jacques Selosse's "V.O." and "Initial" last night.

To compare them, I would say that "Initial" may not seem as sophisticated and refined as "V.O.", yet it is richer and friendlier. It has more mass appeal.

Where "V.O." is light, dry, crisp and tense, "Initial" is fuller, rounder, layered and more laid back.

They are both stunning Champagnes, and if they were women, "V.O." would be elegant, tall and lean, dry and haughty like a pompous yet sophisticated and attractive bourgeoise. While the "Initial" would be more like a smiling, pleasant, curvier, more cheerful, relaxed, chic and cosmopolitan.

Marc Colin Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2018 was as stunning as it was on Monday. It is an incredible young wine with great potential, offering a lot of butter, toasted oak and vanilla flavours that should ease and integrate with time. See my previous post for more details.

Georges Noellat Grands-Echezeaux 2018 was quite dry and tight at the opening, austere, subdued and introverted. The nose and palate presented some savouriness with many earthy, spicy/peppery notes.

Maybe a down phase. I was sceptical if it would open up. But, it did, about 1 hour after opening. Displaying ripe dark fruits, earth, spice, and coffee roast, balanced by a good acidity and tannic structure. It is a serious wine. More cerebral than I thought it would be. It is complex, multidimensional, layered and long in a refined yet discreet way.

I loved it for many reasons, but I would have loved to see a bit more depth, character and attitude for a Grands-Echezeaux. Yet, Georges Noellat's wines have never been friendly huge fruit bombs. As mentioned above, they are more cerebral and intellectual. Or, maybe that's just a phase, as the potential is there but a little dormant (IMO).

Time will tell.

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 2019

Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 2019

Opened 2 days ago for a private dinner, at the same time as the Batard-Montrachet from Jean-Noel Gagnard, about 1 hour prior, guests arrived. 

Attractive bright robe. The nose was initially shy, reserved and subdued, with fresh, earthy aromas of wild red cherries and some flower and herbal nuances. 

As I swirled my glass, the cellar temperature gradually changed to room temperature, allowing for a better expression of the aromas, which now seemed riper, almost candied, mingling with plummy, peppery, spicy and earthy notes. 

The palate was tight, too tight, maybe. Surely a sacrilege to open such a young wine with such potential, yet I could not resist the temptation when I made the selection for that night's dinner. 

The palate was delicate, refined and elegant but tight and light, almost lacking substance, weight and concentration. And yet, it was so beautifully balanced, textured and structured, with great acidity and a long, persistent finish. 

Very complex in a very subtle, light and earthy way at first. And yet, again, I could sense that it would open up, flesh out and be more ready within the next 2 hours. 

And it did. It was beautiful, graceful, dense, long, layered, and rich without being heavy. Savoury and earthy. It just needed some time to express itself. Loved it. 

It is not the first time I have had this impression of lightness, tightness and earthiness at opening with this producer. Ponsot only rewards the most patient of us. 

Those who know patience is a virtue never rush a great wine in its youth. 

Cheers! Santé!

Dom 

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LeDomduVin: Jean-Noel Gagnard Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2018

Jean-Noel Gagnard Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2018

My experience with Gagnard is that the wines are always expressive, elegant, refined, sophisticated, rich and complex while remaining delicate, fresh and graceful. 

More feminine than some other Chassagne and Batard-Montrachet producers, which I like. 

Nothing surprising when you know the wines are elaborated by Caroline Lestimé, Jean-Noel's daughter, who has been in charge of the vineyard, cellar and office since the mid-nineties and has been joined later on by her husband, Hubert. 

Opened 2 days ago for a private dinner; it was impressive. The nose was a bit shy at the opening, then revealed itself after a few minutes of swirling, blossoming with aromas of white flowers, yellow fruits, pear and apple, mineral nuances and hints of butterscotch and spice. The palate was fresh, mineral, smooth, dense and powerful, ample and generous, and luscious, yet light and graceful. The long finish was calling for another glass. 

A very seductive young wine with good potential to age and offer even more in a few years. Loved it. 

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Suavia Soave Classico 2022

Suavia Soave Classico 2022

100% Garganega

I drank a glass over a piece of pizza at @bluhousehk. It was delicious. 

Young, lively, crisp, yellow fruit aromas mingling with citrus zest, high lemony acidity, mineral, good texture and structure, nicely expanding and coating through the mid-palate up to the long finish. Loooooved it. 

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: What a treat!

What a treat! 

Opened tonight for a private dinner. These 3 bottles were magnificent! 

Jacques Selosse V.O. Version Originale Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut NV (dégorgé November 2019) 

Very subtle, pale golden colour. Fine mousse. The nose is young, delicate, refined, discreet, and elegant, offering light and fresh aromas of golden apple and pear, with mineral and floral nuances, a touch of ginger and lightly toasted, buttery notes. The palate seems slightly older than the nose would suggest, with light tertiary flavours. And yet, so polished and sophisticated, with great balance and texture, structure and style, with great acidity,  richness, complexity, and length. The expression "well-mannered" and "well-behaved" come to mind, as well as racy and courteous. Looooooooooove it. 

Marc Colin Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2018

Attractive pale yellow colour. The nose at first was a bit shy, and the wine was too cold. I left it out of the ice for it to warm up, and it opened up like a blooming flower. I did not decant it, but I should have. After 3 hours of being opened, it was amazing.  And I told my colleagues, if you don't like this Bâtard-Montrachet, then you may never really know what a great white Burgundy is, and you may never appreciate real Chardonnay. This wine has everything you hope to find in Bâtard-Montrachet. Great nose, refreshing and inviting, displaying white and yellow fruit, lemon zest, stony minerality, and light buttery notes. The palate is complex, generous, ample, rich, nicely expanding, textured, layered, well-balanced, harmonious, focused, and so long. Stunning! 

Dugat-Py Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru 2018

This was the cherry on the cake. Already at the opening, great aromas of ripe red and dark cherries mingling with floral and mineral notes perfumed the room's atmosphere. At first, it tasted great, light, fresh, and acidic, almost too young to be opened. It gradually opened up and only started to reveal itself about 4 hours later. It was captivating and intriguing, with ripe, almost jammy red and dark fruits with light oaky, earthy, peppery, spicy notes. The palate was gorgeous. 

Cheers! Santé!

Dom 

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LeDomduVin: Mise en place for the week (2)

Mise en place for the week (2) 

This week will be fun as it is a full week for me, with dinners every night, weekend included. That means that I have to plan, source, buy, prepare, open, taste and serve different wines to all these dinners. 

I love when this happens as it is fun for me to make some selections according to the menus, buy the wines and have the chance to taste and serve them all. Looooove it. 

This is the primary job of a Sommelier like me. And when you get the chance to have access to such incredible producers and wines regularly, you can call yourself extremely lucky. 

That is one of the main reasons I love my job so much, as for the last 32 years (and many more to come, I hope), I have bought, opened, tasted, prepared and served some of the most outstanding wines in the world. 

Wines that I have never been able to afford for myself, yet my job has allowed me to access, taste, and occasionally even drink these wines. I love my job. 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Mise en place of the week (1)

Mise en place for the week

This week will be fun as it is a full week for me, with dinners every night, weekend included.

That means that I have to plan, source, buy, prepare, open, taste and serve different wines to all these dinners.

I love when this happens as it is fun for me to make some selections according to the menus, buy the wines and have the chance to taste and serve them all. Looooove it.

This is the primary job of a Sommelier like me. And when you get the chance to have access to such incredible producers and wines regularly, you can call yourself extremely lucky.

That is one of the main reasons I love my job so much, as for the last 32 years (and many more to come, I hope), I have bought, opened, tasted, prepared and served some of the most outstanding wines in the world.

Wines that I have never been able to afford for myself, yet my job has allowed me to access, taste and occasionally even drink these wines.

I love my job.

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #lesphotosadom #miseenplace #lesmisesenplaceadom #lesselectionsadom #wine #vin #vino #wein @domainejacquesselosse #jacquesselosse @domainemarccolin #marccolin @dugatpy #dugatpy #champagne #burgundy #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife #ilovemyjob

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LeDomduVin: Jermann tasting at Dram Good Stuff

Jermann tasting 

at @dramgoodstuff 

With @clark11kent and the Dram Good Stuff team, Kamal, Mira, Ravi, Shaan, and CK

Really nice tasting and very detailed presentation. Great atmosphere, too. Loved it. 

They have regular wine and whisky tastings and events in this elegant, friendly, yet sophisticated boutique full of niche items. Highly recommended. 

Thank you, Bojan, for inviting me to tonight's tasting. 🙏🙏🙏

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #wine #vin #vino #wein @jermann_wine #jermann #friuli #collio #italy #hongkong

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LeDomduVin: Petrus! What else?

Petrus! What else? 

1982, 1989 & 1990

I posted so many pictures and posts on my social media and blog that some of you might think I have a cult fascination for Petrus. An obsession even. And you're probably right! 

Yet, who wouldn't? 

Isn't it fascinating that a wine could command such a high price? 

Isn't it fascinating that being so sought-after and coveted, it is one of the world's top 10 most counterfeited wines? 

Isn't it fascinating that it is so secretive and inconsistent regarding the details of the labels, even on bottles from the same vintage, that you (and even the most experienced of us) may never really know if the bottle you have in your hand is real or fake? 

My fascination for Petrus results from all of the above and beyond. 

I'm entirely fascinated by Petrus as it is so expensive. I always feel humble and privileged in its presence. 

Although I have never been able to afford such wine, it has always been a treat to be able to buy, open, taste and serve as many bottles as I did in my 32 years career as a Sommelier/Wine Buyer working for renowned restaurants, boutique wine retailers and large corporate companies. 

Fascinated also as, for 9 years in my previous job, I was a Wine Quality Control Director in charge of inspecting all the bottles we bought, especially those from Auction Houses and private cellars, and inspected so many bottles of Petrus.   

Fascinated as this wine is unconventional, famous yet mysterious, traditional yet modern. 

Secluded, discreet, old school, restricted, noble and anchored in the history of its terroir as one of the earliest vineyards established in Pomerol in the mid-18th century. 

And yet, at the same time, classic, sophisticated, contemporary, world-renowned, adulated, revered, and praised by the whole wine industry, collectors, connoisseurs, amateurs and beyond. 

Isn't it fascinating? 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

Photo taken in the cellar of one of our restaurants while inspecting some label and bottle details for a post on my blog. 

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