Thursday, August 10, 2023
LeDomduVin: Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 2019
Opened 2 days ago for a private dinner, at the same time as the Batard-Montrachet from Jean-Noel Gagnard, about 1 hour prior, guests arrived.
Attractive bright robe. The nose was initially shy, reserved and subdued, with fresh, earthy aromas of wild red cherries and some flower and herbal nuances.
As I swirled my glass, the cellar temperature gradually changed to room temperature, allowing for a better expression of the aromas, which now seemed riper, almost candied, mingling with plummy, peppery, spicy and earthy notes.
The palate was tight, too tight, maybe. Surely a sacrilege to open such a young wine with such potential, yet I could not resist the temptation when I made the selection for that night's dinner.
The palate was delicate, refined and elegant but tight and light, almost lacking substance, weight and concentration. And yet, it was so beautifully balanced, textured and structured, with great acidity and a long, persistent finish.
Very complex in a very subtle, light and earthy way at first. And yet, again, I could sense that it would open up, flesh out and be more ready within the next 2 hours.
And it did. It was beautiful, graceful, dense, long, layered, and rich without being heavy. Savoury and earthy. It just needed some time to express itself. Loved it.
It is not the first time I have had this impression of lightness, tightness and earthiness at opening with this producer. Ponsot only rewards the most patient of us.
Those who know patience is a virtue never rush a great wine in its youth.
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