Friday, May 27, 2011

Thinking out loud and Azienda Agricola Biologica BioVio (Aimone Giobatta Vio) Pigato and Rossese

 Thinking out loud 
and Aimone Giobatta Vio (Bio Vio)

Over the last 9 years in New York as a Wine Buyer / Sommelier and Store Manager, I realized that there are hundreds of wine & spirits distributors in the market but only few of them offer a really good and consistent portfolio. And even fewer include great value for money, meaning wines that are great at $15 and under on the shelves.

Amongst those that I work with, roughly 200, I mainly and regularly order my wines through about 50 of them, and amid these carefully selected vendors, only a few handful in my opinion can claim to offer a solid portfolio of authentic and expressive, Terroir oriented natural wines (Biodynamic, Organic, “biologique”, sustainable culture, “Lutte Raisonnée”, etc..) crafted by small, artisanal producers all around the world, which are not necessarily “branded” and overly commercial.

In my opinion, these are the names that usually first come to mind amongst the importers and distributors that I work with:
  • Rosenthal (Madrose), 
  • Louis/Dressner, 
  • Kermit Lynch, 
  • Peter Weygandt (Weygandt-Metzler), 
  • Jenny and François (World Wide Wines), 
  • Terry Theise, 
  • Liz Willette, 
  • Savio Soares, 
  • Becky Wasserman, 
  • Martine’s wine, 
  • Alain Juguenet, 
  • Jan D’Amore, 
  • Moonlight Selection, 
  • Wineberry, 
  • Little Wine Company, 
  • Baron François, 
  • The Wine list, 
  • Bayfield, 
  • Langdon-Shiverick, 
  • United-Estates, 
  • Maximilien Selection, 
  • De Montoux Selection, 
  • Metropolis wine, 
  • Baron François,
  • Cognac One, and few more.   

These small companies, which mainly imports artisanally crafted wines, often organic or biodynamic or sustainable and coming in limited quantities, have all in common the fact of offering a consistent, carefully selected portfolio with great values. They lead the pack in the New York market as fine examples of consistency and set the industry standard with their high quality selected wine lists.

In my honest opinion, I rather deal and establish a personal relationship with the distributors cited above than trying to give too much business to the bigger companies. Not that they don’t have good stuffs too, but in most case scenario, it is less intimate, genuine and friendly than with the smaller ones.

The market is the same, it seems that people are turning their back to big and recognizable brands and items that have oscillating prices, and prefer the reliability of smaller producers that are less notorious but as good and often better for a lesser and more consistent price vintage after vintage.

Let’s take a recent example, a customer call me to ask me to reorder some Louis Jadot Macon Villages that sells for about $10-$13. I told her that I have other producers that I prefer and that are in my opinion better, for the same price or less. But she insisted, therefore I decided to comply. Customers are always a priority to me and a “special order” end-up usually as a “in-and-out” operation, where I take less margin on the price, but get an immediate sale and therefore cash flow, so it is difficult to refuse and it is in my interest not to. Yet, after rechecking the price twice, I called her back and let her know that the cost price has increased by roughly $4 a bottle, which means that I will have to sell the same wine for about $14-$15, which I refused to do and immediately convinced her that it will be a mistake not to take my offer on a different producer. After a short reflection and a few questions about the reason why the price has increased, she finally agree to reconsider my offer, and finally thanks me a few days later for my choice, perseverance and to unable her to discover something different.

This economy is quite controversial and not accepted by every producers, therefore some of them continue their opportunistic path to sell to healthier market that are ready to pay, thinking short term relationship and more money in the bank rather than long term relationship and consistent sales.

Market like Bordeaux have been for the past 2-3 years enjoying themselves selling to China, yet milking the cow has slowed down lately, not surprising when a case of 1st growth sells between $12000-$15000. China can buy but they are not stupid and if they realize that they will not be able to speculate on higher price after a few years, they will not continue to buy and probably will end up trying to sell a good part of what they bought rather quickly, they mean business for now, not drinking for pleasure. What will happen when China will decide not to buy anymore? Which market the luxury end of wines will find to be sold to?  New emerging country like India? Brazil may be? Korea?

As a result of this situation, the Bordelais and other high-end wine producing regions are sensing the wind turning against them and are trying to be back in the US. I recently noticed a resurgence of Bordeaux Negociants coming back to sell in New York, fortunately for them it will work with wines under $20 on the shelves and certain wines in the tranch of $25-$60, anything above will be very difficult to sell at the moment as the economy is still down and people are still very cautious about their spending. First growth market will barely find any buyers.  Moreover, the US market has been booing Bordeaux since the ridiculous increase of the prices for the 2003 vintage, which was, in my opinion, and after tasting more than 900 different wines “En Primeur” in April 2004, the least homogeneous vintage that I ever tasted in 13 years of Bordeaux buying (at that time). Since then prices have gone through the roof and the high-end Bordeaux are no longer in favor in the US.

The United States may be a difficult market because Americans are picky and only want the best and the most accessible of what all markets in the world have to offer; yet they are more faithful and more consistent in their way of buying, which lately brought them to the position of number one wine consumers in the world, leaving behind France, Italy and Spain and other producing countries. Wine, in the US, has become a cultural thing as it used to be in Europe not long ago. Americans may boo the incoherent ways of pricing their wines from Bordeaux and Burgundy and a few other European appellations, yet they continue to find and import some of the best deals from the hexagon and the rest of Europe. Due to a decreasing consummation in Europe in general, some wineries have found their new El Dorado in the US, by selling more than 80% of their production to the export market.      

Therefore, to share my love for brighter and crispier wines and my interest in smaller importers and distributors, and also to continue my eternal quest to introduce you to fairly unknown, under the radar and rather undiscovered wines, grape varieties and regions, I would like to share with you two wines from a producer that I recently tasted and rediscovered, which produces wines that represent, in my opinion, the quintessential idea of the kind of wines that I love, imported by one of my favorite importers of late, Wine Emporium.



 Azienda Agricola Biologica BioVio (Aimone Giobatta Vio)


Azienda Agricola Biologica Bio Vio is located in Bastia d'Albenga, a village part of the city of Albenga, in the Savona province, central-western part of Liguria, and about 72 kilometers west from Genoa, along the coast toward France.

Liguria is a coastal region of the northwestern Italy, the third smallest of the 20 Italian regions. Its capital is Genoa. It is a popular region and destination for its beautiful beaches, picturesque little town and history, and good food and wine.

Although the estate was making wine for centuries, Azienda Agricola Vio Bio was firmly established by its current owner Giobatta Vio and his family in 2000, when they started making their own wines. Within a few years they quickly gained popularity amongst the locals and visitors, but remained small and fairly unknown to the export markets. Yet, word-of-month quickly spread amongst amateurs and connoisseurs. The excellent results achieved prompted them to enlarge the cellar and provide it with modern equipment. At the same time, one hectare of Pigato grape vine was planted in Ranzo, in the Arroscia Valley. The Vio family firmly believed in this vineyard and anticipated to get just as many gratifications from it.

To this day, the winery - consistently with its philosophy – has always carefully selected the vineyards thought to be the best suited to obtain the most complexity and ripeness of the fruit to craft the best wine possible, with natural, traditional vinification methods. The winery is fully organic and produces wines without the use of pesticides, herbicides or fertilizers, as certified by ICEA in 1999.




2010 Aimone Giobatta Vio (BioVio) "MaRené" Pigato di Albenga Riviera Ligure di Ponente Italy  
Suggested retail price $21-$24
Imported / distributed by Wine Emporium in NYC

Pigato is a white Italian wine grape planted primarily in Liguria. As a varietal, Pigato produces highly aromatic wines.

Made with 100% Pigato grapes vinified in stainless steel tanks, aged on its lees for 4 months than further refining for 2 months before bottling, this wine presents a clean, clear, pale yellow color with light golden reflects. The complex and attractive nose is fresh, fragrant, floral, mineral and zesty, with citrus peel, blossom, mint and freshly cut hay, nutty and herbal notes. It also boasts inciting notes of Mediterranean wild bush, beach "maquis", "pignon de pin" and "pin des Landes". The palate is soft, generous, well rounded, with golden apple flavors, ripe peach and spices. As it expands in the mid-palate, it offers a lot of glycerine and viscosity, oily texture coating the entire palate with generous and balanced ripe yellow fruit flavors and herbaceous, fresh almond notes. Ample and rich yet with enough acidity to keep it balanced and fresh, the finish is long, mineral and Terroir driven with slight briny hints. Lovely wine for amateurs and connoisseurs, and in general for people that really appreciate and understand wine. Definitely food oriented, pair it with well seasoned Mediterranean dishes: North African Tajin, Chicken or poultry baked with white wine, saffron and Provencal herbs.



2010 Aimone Giobatta Vio (BioVio) "U Bastio" Rossese di Albenga Riviera Ligure di Ponente Italy
Suggested retail price $19-$22
Imported / distributed by Wine Emporium in NYC
Rossese is a red Italian wine grape variety that is planted primarily in Liguria. The wines produced from Rossese are a local specialty found around Dolceacqua.

Made with 100% Rossese grapes vinified in stainless steel tanks, aged on its lees for 4 months than further refining for 2 months before bottling,The experience with this wine starts with its color, somewhat intriguing and fascinating, light and see through, yet intense bright red cherry with light orange notes on the rime and garnet, rose nuances. The fresh and fragrant nose offers aromas of dark ripe cherry, smoke and earth, The balanced and crispy palate is really complex and bright, with enhancing, cleansing acidity and distinctive wild cherry flavors (sour cherry). The long and juicy finish is floral and perfumed, with loads of Griottes characteristics. Love it. Perfect for the summer with grilled salmon, lightly pan seared tuna, beef carpaccio, cold cut and white meats.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

For more info go to the winery website at http://www.biovio.it/


Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Heights Chateau 25th Anniversary Tasting at Brooklyn Historical Society on Wednesday, May 18th 2011 (last call)

Heights Chateau 25th Anniversary Tasting 
at Brooklyn Historical Society 
on Wednesday, May 18th 2011
(LAST CALL!!! It is TOMORROW)


2009 Cantina Frentana Cococciola Terre di Chieti Rocca San Giovanni Chieti Abruzzo Italy


Cantina Frentana Cococciola (Vallevo?) Terre di Chieti Rocca San Giovanni Chieti Abruzzo Italy  

The vineyards of Cantina Frentana are located west of the village of Rocca San Giovanni, which lies about 50 kilometers south-east of Chieti, east of the central Apennine mountains near the historic city of Luciano, in the very heart of the Abruzzo region, part of the Chieti province, and a stone’s throw from the Adriatic sea.

The Frentana winery praises itself for having one of the most efficiently operated wine growing co-operatives in Abruzzo. Frentana began in the late fifties with a few small selected vineyards and wine growers, and in the last forty years has grown to more than 400 members.

These growers are assisted throughout the entire grape growing season, right up to harvest, by the highly qualified Frentana staff (which includes an agronomist and enologist) in an approach aimed at very specific grape yields considered worthy of wines with the traditional Frentana standard of quality.  All the latest, most up-to-date wine making equipment and techniques are used together with a wealth of collective historical wine making knowledge, to produce great Frentana wines.

Nowadays, the 500 vine growers attend about 750 hectares of vineyards in the area Frentana, a name that is derived by the ancient people, Frentani, who populated that region. The cantina was founded in 1958 by the doctor, Francesco D’Agostino, who was trying to protect the local producers from the uncertainties linked to the free market of the grapes. At first, the idea was to vinify the grapes and sell the wine to bottling companies. Over time, this society became a winery itself and took over the entire process of winemaking. This evolution required ample changes to the productive and organizational model of operation. The company added a lot more attention and care to the quality of each different phase of the process, from the vineyards implants to the bottling, and the sales services.

Cantina Frentana rediscovered almost unexpectedly the Cococciola grape variety. This white grape is indigenous to the territory of Rocca San Giovanni, and is principally grown in Abruzzo. It now can also be found in very small quantities in other Italian regions, Puglia among others. According to recent genetic studies, it seems to be related to the excellent and much better known Pugliese grape called “Bombino bianco”, well known enough in fact, to be characterized as “a varietal of noble lineage”. Once considered as a good blending grape because of its ability to equalize the “must” imbalance, Cococciola had never been studied as a serious grape of merit.



2009 Cantina Frentana Cococciola Terre di Chieti Rocca San Giovanni Chieti Abruzzo Italy
Suggested retail price $11-$14 
Imported by Wine Emporium in NYC

Cantina Frentana has made a beautiful and pure 100% Cococciola wine proving that this is indeed a grape with noble genes, which can proudly stand on its own. Usually harvested in the second week of September, the grapes, grown under the traditional "tendone" overhead trellis system, are soft pressed and fermented in stainless steel tank at a controlled temperature. The wine remains on it lees with periodic “rimontaggio” (“remontage” in French or “pump over” in English), followed by 2 months in the bottle before release.

In the glass, 2009 Cantina Frentana (Vallevò) Cococciola Terre di Chieti presents a clean, crisp pale straw color with greenish reflections. The nose is floral and mineral, zesty and herbal with extremely fresh and enticing white fruit and citrus aromas, mingled with subtle notes of green apple and unripe melon and light herbal essences. The palate is incredibly zesty, crisp, floral, and mineral, even a touch salty (surely due to the proximity of the Adriatic sea) and offers appealing flavors of lemon peel, zest and unripe white fruit enhanced by very good acidity. The finish is quite long, light and mineral.

Overall, this wine is really nice, fresh with lively acidity yet soft textured, zesty and limey, and charmingly versatile. That slight touch of saltiness, or spiciness depending how your taste buds will interpret it, makes it a food-oriented wine. I love this little wine.  Delightful as an aperitif or to enjoy with all types of seafood dishes, shellfish and light meats. Serve chilled. 

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from the winery website at http://www.cantinafrentana.it/ and from the importer website at http://www.tricana.com


Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

2009 Christian Venier Cheverny Rouge “Les Hauts de Madon” Loire Valley France


2009 Christian Venier Cheverny Rouge “Les Hauts de Madon” Loire Valley France  

The estate of Christian Venier is located at Candé-sur-Beuvron, a small commune of the Loir-et-Cher departement, in the north of the central eastern part of the Loire Valley, about 14 kilometers southwest of Blois and about 20 kilometers west of Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny, on the southern bank of the Loire River.    

Tending to the vineyards and making wine has been part Christian Venier’s family history for many centuries in this region of the Loire Valley between Blois and Tours. Yet, it wasn’t until 1998 that Christian himself decided to go back to his roots, after buying 14 hectares of old vines from a retired winemaker in the hamlet of Madon, about 3 kilometers north of Candé-sur-Beuvron, where he was born and clean up the old cellar from his father’s home that had been inactive for a couple of decades. Influenced by his cousins Thierry and Jean-Marie Puzelat, he took to the job of non-interventionist, natural biodynamic farming and winemaking.  

Planted on silica and clay based soils mixed with gravels and stones, his various vineyards include pretty much most classic Loire grape varieties: Gamay, Pinot Noir, Menu Pineau, Pineau d’Aunis, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Côt and Cabernet Franc.    

As for his vinification techniques, he pretty much leaves Mother Nature do what she does best, with minimal intervention: very long macerations, using various tanks, fiberglass, stainless steal, unlined cement tank and oak, always in large formats. Nothing is added to the wine and as they are not filtered nor finned, just racked from the lees before being bottled. 

The key factor for the wine of today is the Carbonic Maceration, which is very traditional in Beaujolais and well suited for Gamay grapes, but started to see some adepts and followers in many other French appellations and regions, especially in the Loire Valley.    

Carbonic maceration, at Christian Venier, consists of filling cement vats, usually unlined with resin as it allows for some aeration or air exchange due to the porosity of the cement, thus natural oxygenation with minimal risk of oxidation, with the whole clusters. Once full of the whole clusters, Christian tops off the cement tanks with CO2 gas and then leaves the lid on, partially closed. Basically, like in Beaujolais, the whole grapes are fermented in an anaerobic carbon dioxide rich environment prior to crushing, except that Christian won’t crush them. In clear, Carbonic maceration ferments most of the juice while it is still inside the grape, although grapes at the bottom of the tank are crushed by gravity and undergo conventional fermentation. And that’s about it. Pigeage may be needed to mix and break the cap, but Christian only does it if really necessary, and usually ends-up by doing only one. The wine then ferments naturally and obviously is allowed to ferment dry in cement tank. No barrels are used for any of the reds and as I said earlier no additives, no sulphur, no fining and no filtration, of course.  



2009 Christian Venier Cheverny Rouge “Les Hauts de Madon” Loire Valley France 
Suggested retail price $16-$19 
Imported / distributed by Savio Soares Selections (in NYC) 

Made from 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Gamay handpicked from the vineyard called “Hauts Madon” located near the eponymous village. This wine underwent carbonic maceration with natural yeasts. Unlined cement tanks were used for fermentation and ageing. No oak, no filtration and no SO2 (sulphur) added. 100% Organic.    

2009 Christian Venier Cheverny Rouge “Les Hauts de Madon” presents a fairly deep ruby color. The fragrant nose is fresh and vibrant with red berries aromas mingled with earthy, smoky, herbal, mineral, almost salty notes and green, steamy hints (probably due to the inclusion of the stems during fermentation). The palate is clean, crisp, earthy, and smoky and Terroir driven with great acidity and balance, mixed wild red and dark berries flavors and, here again, hints of green stem and bell pepper. Intriguing, complex and racy, this is a juicy wine of character, not for every palate, but a delight for discriminating taste buds like mine. 

A touch chilled, it will be a great summery red wine to pair with charcuterie, salad, white meats and cheeses.   

Enjoy! 

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and partly edited from the importer website at http://savioselections.com


Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

Monday, May 16, 2011

2010 Summerer Grüner Veltliner “Steinhaus” Langenlois Krems-Land Austria




Weingut Summerer Gruner Veltliner Austria  

It has been quite warm and beautiful last week, with greatly anticipated temperatures reminding us that Summer is coming and this endless winter has finally come to an end. Therefore, what a better choice to welcome the arrival of the sun than a crisp, lightly fizzy Austrian Grüner Veltliner called “Summerer”? 

“Summerer” is the name of a wine brand coming from the eponymous winery located in the Kamp-valley area, northern Austria. The Summerer estate vineyards surround the town of Langenlois, located in the district of Krems-Land in the Austrian state of lower Austria. Famous for its wine production, Langenlois is also home to the Loisium, a centre celebrating and advertising the local wine, built by the American deconstructionist architect Steven Holl. 

A farmer-family, the Summerer settled in the wine-city of Langenlois in 1679 and underwent change along the decades through the commitment of every succeeding generation. Alfred Summerer, father to the present owner, lead former mixed farming to genuine winegrowing. Together with his wife Charlotte he laid the foundations of a top-grade winegrowing estate, which has been trading internationally for some years now.

Walking into their ancestors steps and traditions, Rupert and Elizabeth Summerer have dedicated their entire souls to the 20 hectares of land that they have tended since they fully involved themselves in the estate in 1997.

Elisabeth quit her job at the bank to take full responsibility for administration and marketing, leaving Rupert the opportunity to focus exclusively on his wines and grapes. Fully supported by his wife, Rupert has been deeply dedicated to establish among his colleagues and in the whole industry his way of cultivating, the organic winegrowing.

Every vineyard in the world has its appeal but few have such the magnetic attraction to their caretakers as the vines do here. It is their livelihood, exercise field, meditation place, animal sanctuary, dog run and even pantry for their ceaseless culinary imaginations (only vegetarian ever!). It is their epicenter to commune with Nature. So, to that end, it is clear they would want to preserve and nurture it, organically, in cooperation with its vegetable and animal life. 

Cover crop is planted for soil health as well as attractants for animal and microbial activity. There is no thought of chemical treatments. They produce vines that will then keep themselves healthy, because they are in harmony with all life. They carry this ethos to the cellar as well. Why ruin a perfectly grown grape? Here, their instruction from nature allows for harmony of the traditional and modern world. 

The wine makes itself, spontaneously fermenting, but is guided by temperature controlled steel vats, a gentle pneumatic press and a CO2 system for bottling. This preserves the purity and spirit of the grapes, to make, as Rupert calls, his "wines of character". The character stems from a mix of complex soils and the mix of warm sun and cool nights. This is a magical land, ruled by bio-equality, which reveals itself in every bottle the Summerers produce. 

Three typical grapes of the Kamp-Valley area dominate the estate’s 20 hectares (about 50 acres): Riesling, Zweigelt and of course Grüner Veltliner, which accounts for almost 60 percent of total wine production and has become the pride of Austria’s producers. The Summerer produces various wines from these 3 different grapes and also various vineyards with specific characteristics, including the “Steinhaus” vineyard for the wine of today.  

Organic winegrowing profoundly practiced and praised: Nature to the Summerers is a pure energy-supplier. They are aware, that in the long run only a healthy environment can positively affect the grapes, the wine, and the people and therefore they do pay acute attention to the machining system, its features and its scale (which is actually kept at a minimum). The highest principle in the wine cellar is to manipulate as little as possible the grapes and their juice – and only with the utmost care. Safe and as a whole, the white wine grapes arrive at the press, where slowly and gently they are freed from their juice. The result is a clear, fine filigree fruit: A distinctive mark of genuine Summerer style. As with the more sumptuous wines, here too special emphasis is placed on the grape variety, especially Grüner Veltliner.  

Grüner Veltliner: Occasionally offering peppery and spicy notes, a good amount of fruitiness, yet usually dry and crisp, Grüner Veltliner is the most important white grape variety grown in Austria, consisting of about a third of Austria’s total viticultural area. The quality spectrum of the Grüner Veltliner is sweeping, extending from light, effervescent wines that are best drunk young – as “Heuriger” – to Spätlese wines that are rich, complex and balanced between sweetness and acidity, thus ageing particularly well.
  


 2010 Summerer Grüner Veltliner “Steinhaus” Langenlois Krems-Land Austria 
Suggested retail price $14-$17 
Imported / distributed by Savio Soares in NYC

Steinhaus vineyard: The 40 centimeter thick topsoil consists of loamy and sandy clay in combination with gneiss and mica rocks. Via anciently opened volcanic cuts quite a few small stones managed to get to the surface. These stones and small rocks retain their daily dose of solar energy, and release it during the night, thus protecting the vines and helping the ripeness process. Like in the French Rhône Valley, this common phenomenon results in a particularly consistent maturation, which shapes that recognizable “goût de terroir”, and allows the wines to combine complexity and harmony with a nimble and playful attitude.

Made from 100% Grüner Veltliner from “Steinhaus” vineyard, composed of mostly clay with sandy loam and very rocky soils from volcanic activity, this wine was hand picked and naturally fermented in large stainless steel tank. It spent some times on its lees, which allows for more depth, complexity and character. It was bottled with CO2 to minimize the use of sulphur.

Behind the 2010 Summerer Grüner Veltliner “Steinhaus” pale, transparent yellow color with greenish-metallic reflects, persist tiny bubbles. The nose offers lots of mineral enhancing the citrus and white fruits aromas complemented with floral notes. The palate is very dry, fresh, cleansing, refreshing with vivid acidity, loads of minerals and white fruits with citrus hints sparkled with a light fizziness, making this wine aerial, pleasing, easy going and versatile. Great as an aperitif, it will pair well salad, light hors d’oeuvre, white river fish and even shellfish. 

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin   

Info mostly taken and partly edited from the winery website at www.summerer.at
and the importer website at

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

Sunday, May 15, 2011

2006 Mas Cal Demoura « L’Infidèle » Terrasses du Larzac Côteaux du Languedoc France

Although Summer is knocking on the door with temperatures indicating that light, crispy whites and rosés will soon, if not already, flourish your tables and complement your outdoor meals and recreations in the garden, on the patio or even on your roof terrace, I bought what I could portrait as my last fuller red wine of the cold season, before populating the shelves with lighter, more refreshing reds.

Also in my eternal quest of finding great wines under $20, (and usually more especially under $15 because I’m the king of under $15), I wanted to share with you this Languedoc wine produced in a fairly young appellation named: Terrasses du Larzac, which represents the central northern part of the Languedoc region between Beziers and Montpellier, recognized in 2004 and officially on the map since 2005.     

Mas Cal Demoura  

HISTORY OF DOMAINE: In 1970, when there was a great exodus from the Languedoc due to a loss of faith in its vineyards to provide a sufficient living, Jean-Pierre Jullien named his domaine "Cal Demoura", which, in Occitan, means: “one must remain”. He came from a long line of vignerons and, at that time, he followed most of his colleagues as they closed their caves and attempted to survive by participating in the local cooperative. Jean-Pierre's son, Olivier, refused to follow the path of the cooperative and established his own domaine, the "Mas Jullien", in 1985. Jean-Pierre, in a reversal of the usual process, took the example of his son, resigned from the cooperative and recreated his own estate in 1993. He sold off a portion of his vineyards and retained only the best 5 hectares. With these, he began making a wine of regal dimensions that helped to lead the qualitative revolution in the Languedoc. In 2004, Jean-Pierre retired, selling the estate to its current owners, Isabelle and Vincent Goumard. Seduced by the estate’s winemaking philosophy, as well as by the potential of its terroir, the couple spent a year working side by side with Jean-Pierre in the vineyard and in the cellar, before taking full control of the estate.

COMPOSITION OF DOMAINE: The five hectares are located in the village of Jonquières and in the neighboring community of Saint Felix, approximately 45 minutes northwest of Montpellier, just south of Clermont l'Hérault. They are situated in the heart of the Terrasses du Larzac, an independent subdivision within the Côteaux du Languedoc AOC that was recognized in 2004. The vineyards feature five grape varieties in approximately equal parts: Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Carignan and Cinsault. The average age of the vines is 25 years with significant parcels of Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan being considerably older. The soil is very dry and stony with deep but porous topsoil. The various parcels of the domaine are distributed over a terroir that is both geographically and climatically diverse. These variations, combined with an assortment of different cépages, result in wines of complexity and finesse.

METHOD OF VINIFICATION: Isabelle and Vincent are committed to producing wines that respect the environment from which they come, and express both their terroir, and the personality of the winemaker. In the vineyard, the Goumards treat organically and harvest manually. Harvest levels are approximately 30 hectoliters per hectare. In the cellar, they practice classic vinification.

Côteaux du Languedoc Rouge "L'Infidèle": The historic cuvée of Jean-Pierre Jullien, L'Infidèle is a blend of all the regional grapes – Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Carignan. The Goumards make choices in the vineyard and in the cellar that will emphasize finesse and freshness in this bottling, allowing for full expression of the fruit. The grapes are partially destemmed. Temperature is rigorously controlled. The cuvaison can extend for as long as 3 weeks with frequent remontage. The Carignan and Mourvèdre are frequently aged in older barrels for 12 months, while the Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault usually remain in cuve for the duration of the élevage. The five varieties are assembled in cuve and aged for 8 months more prior to bottling. The wine is bottled without filtration. Overall this wine was aged for about 18 months, in 500 liter barrels for 60 to 80% of the final blend.



2006 Mas Cal Demoura « L’Infidèle » Terrasses du Larzac Côteaux du Languedoc France  
Suggested retail price $15-$18 
Imported / distributed by Rosenthal Wine Merchant / Madrose (in NYC)

The 2006 Mas Cal Demoura "L'Infidèle" presents a dark ruby color. A very fragrant, enticing nose boasting distinct aromas of dark and ripe red berries with earthy, spicy notes and hints of garrigues and soil. The palate is beautiful and complex, full, rich and ripe yet juicy and well put together, with flavors of dark fruit and berries intermingled with earthy, terroir oriented, spicy, peppery, liquorice notes especially in the finish. This wine is big, no doubt, but lovely and really integrated with focused acidity to balance the ripeness of the ripe fruit and present yet fairly gentle tannins that frame and structure the overall palate from beginning to end.

Dark, slightly rustic and robust yet pleasantly surprising and really juicy despite its fullness, this wine is surely more wintery than summery, but I do think that it will pair well with BBQ and flavorful game dishes and stews and cheeses. Amateur of lightly spicy, peppery wine with great character and body should appreciate it greatly. As I like to say sometimes, it is one of this Dark Vader of wine, dark, powerful, earthy and intriguing…

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin 

Info about the Domaine taken from the importer website at www.madrose.com, for more info also consult the winery website at www.caldemoura.com 


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