LeDomduVin: Classics in my book!

Classics in my book!

Mise en place for dinner, these have been staples in my recent selections. Love them all! 

The other day, I served the following wines for a private dinner, and they showed beautifully.   

I titled this post "Classics in my book!" because, over the past 2-3 years, I've had the pleasure of serving these wines numerous times. Moreover, they are classics of their appellations, too.  

Dom Perignon "Plenitude 2" is always a good reference in Champagne, and although the vintage 2003 is not my favorite, it still remains a very good champagne.  

For Fontaine-Gagnard, I was talking with a fellow sommelier who told me that, for him, it’s a producer he likes to include on his wine list but wouldn’t buy for his own consumption. He said that he found the style too classic, Burgundy. Well, it's fine, why not? 

Yet, I replied that this is precisely why I love Fontaine-Gagnard. Their wines are always very approachable and well-balanced. Not too extracted, with a good amount of oak but not overly oaked, fruit-forward but not overripe, and usually enhanced by excellent acidity and minerality. This makes them very accessible and enjoyable to drink, and easy to pair with food.  

As for Perrot-Minot NSG 1er Cru "La Richemone", it is a beautiful wine, more modern in style than the classic Nuits-Saint-Georges, complex, rich and ample, yet soft and silky, with a gentle texture expanding nicely in the palate toward the long velvety finish.    

Out of the 4 prepared wines, I only opened 3. I always come ready with an extra bottle, as you never know. Yet, that night, we didn't need it. Shame, as I would have loved to open this bottle of Chateau Haut-Brion 2008.  

Dom Perignon "Plénitude 2" Champagne Brut Vintage 2003

DP P2 2003 is a rich champagne that lacks some acidity and minerality, resulting in a less bright and somewhat flabby profile. It is not bad, but it unfortunately reflects the poor quality of the 2003 vintage, which was affected by a significant heat wave during the summer months. It was deemed the hottest summer recorded in Europe since at least 1540. Consequently, the resulting champagne shows taste, texture, and structure unworthy of the price and usual quality of "Plenitude 2" (IMO). And I usually love P2, it is consistently one of my go-to Champagnes when I make a selection for a dinner, but this vintage was pretty disappointing.  Too bad.   

Fontaine-Gagnard Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru Burgundy 2020

A classic in my book, because the few bottles I recently opened were stunning, despite being a bit light, but still delightful, and this one was too. 

Beyond its pale yellow color, the nose was light, fresh, elegant, mineral, zesty, and citrusy. At first, slightly restrained, the palate slowly opened, revealing a fresh, dry, mineral texture, good density, lots of lemony flavors, sharp acidity, and lightly toasted, oaky nuances. Delightful, even if a bit light to my palate for a Batard-Montrachet. I would have loved to see a bit more substance and depth. Yet, it might benefit from a few more years in the cellar. 

As my colleague Sommelier said that night, Fontaine-Gagnard is usually a more classic style of Burgundy. And, in fact, that's what I like about Fontaine-Gagnard: it is never over-the-top, but consistently well-crafted and balanced. It is neither too light nor too heavy, neither overripe nor overextracted, with enjoyable oak ageing nuances, but not overly oaky, toasted, or buttery either.     

Perrot-Minot Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru "La Richemone" Vignes Centenaires Burgundy 2018

With only 2,551 bottles produced, it is a rare wine, and I was fortunate to find nine bottles of it a few years ago.  I bought them right away, as this is a delicious, forward, ample, rich, complex, and enticing wine.  For a wine made from century-old vines, it exhibits a remarkably modern, youthful, and fruit-forward palate, with a reasonably long finish. Dark cherry and raspberry aromas mingling with warm, earthy, and oaky nuances. I love it. A must-try for those who have never done it before.           

The only problem is that I opened it about 1 hour before serving it and realized it did not need that long, as it tamed down and was much less expressive than right after the opening. Opening it 15 minutes before serving it should have sufficed, as it would have opened up in the glass anyway. Lesson learnt the hard way. Fortunately, I have the principle of never decanting Burgundy wines; otherwise, too much air might have damaged it even more. 

Chateau Haut-Brion Premier Grand Cru Classé Péssac-Léognan Bordeaux 2008

Although I did not open that bottle for dinner that night, Haut-Brion 2008 is a beautiful wine that has aged gracefully and is even better now than it was 10 years ago. I will describe it the next time I have an opportunity to taste and serve it.    

Cheers! Santé!

Dom 

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LeDomduVin: Korean food paired with Burgundy wines

Korean food paired with Burgundy wines

Pairing Korean food and wine can be tricky due to the bold and varied flavors in Korean cuisine, but it's definitely doable. The secret is to select wines that enhance, rather than fight against, the food's qualities and flavors, favoring wines with bright acidity, fruit-forward profiles, and moderate tannins. 

Over time, I have learned that when pairing Korean food with wine, it's better to focus on the main protein or dish rather than the side dishes. Keep the wine versatile enough to simplify the pairing process, rather than trying to find wines that complement every flavor.

Generally, it's better to avoid heavy and tannic red wines, as they can clash with spicy or savory dishes. Choosing lighter-bodied reds with good acidity is usually a safer option. However, most sommeliers and connoisseurs will tell you that dry or slightly off-dry, yet crisp, whites, such as Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling, are generally good choices for spicy dishes. Off-dry wines can be a good match for Korean dishes that have some sweetness or spice.  

Korean dishes often feature a mix of spicy, sweet, salty, and umami flavors, making it challenging to find a single wine that pairs well with all of them. Still, I was up for the challenge and chose Burgundy wines, which generally also pair well with Korean food.  

The host wanted me to serve only red wine, but, as mentioned above, I knew I had to bring some white wine as well, since it's usually better appreciated with Korean food. I usually follow my instincts, and luckily, I did again, as the white wine turned out to be more successful than the red.  

The challenge was to find a fruit-forward white wine with bright acidity and good minerality, complex enough to complement the food without overpowering it. Chassagne-Montrachet came to mind, and given my recent successful pairing experience with the succulent Batard-Montrachet from Fontaine-Gagnard at another event, I decided to opt for their Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets 2020 (one of my favorites from Chassagne), which combines complexity, amplitude, and freshness.   

For the red, I chose a Volnay. Known for its freshness, elegance, delicate character, and moderate tannins, it's often described as a "feminine" wine, especially when compared to the more robust wines of Pommard, its neighbor. Coincidentally, I also brought a Pommard in case the host and his guests found the Volnay too light. 

The wines received praise from the attendees, especially the white wine, which was delightful and paired exceptionally well with the food. My taste buds also confirmed this, as I had the opportunity to sample some of the food in the kitchen, paired with a bit of each wine. Tasting food and wine together is crucial for a sommelier, as it is the only way to develop a refined palate and create palate memories that enhance one's taste, experience, and knowledge. Once again, I was happy and content with the choices I made. 

 

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Caillerets" 2020

Having opened their superb Batard-Montrachet 2020 a few days earlier, I wanted to revisit the experience. However, since Korean food requires more acidity, this Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets 2020 would be an ideal pairing. I hadn't tried it in a while, but knowing the quality of Fontaine-Gagnard's wines and their unmistakable freshness and minerality, I wasn't taking much risk and was confident it would be a hit.   

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard was established in 1985 by Laurence Gagnard, a member of the Gagnard family in Chassagne, and Richard Fontaine. Since 2007, the domaine has been skillfully led by Céline Fontaine, who blends youthful energy and a touch of tradition with the Burgundian legacy established by her parents, creating classic examples of some of Burgundy's most renowned climats. The domaine produces wine from three Grand Crus and twelve different Premier Crus, including iconic parcels such as Le Montrachet, Les Caillerets, and La Romanée.

This Chassagne-Montrachet comes from a 0.56-hectare plot called "Vigne Derriere," which was purchased by Celine's parents in the late 1990s as part of the Premier Cru vineyard "Les Caillerets." The vines, planted between 1962 and 1966 (approximately 60 years old), grow at an altitude of 220 to 325 meters on clay-limestone soils, with optimal southeast sun exposure. The soil in the upper part of the vineyard is very shallow, steep, and dotted with white stones, while the lower part is rich in clay.  

The grapes are hand-harvested. Alcoholic and malolactic fermentations occur directly in barrels for 10-15 days using native yeasts. The wine is then aged for approximately 11 months in new and used barrels, comprising one-third new oak, one-third 2-year-old oak, and one-third 3-year-old oak. Afterward, it is fined (clarified with casein and bentonite) and lightly filtered before bottling. 

The Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets 2020 is a masterpiece of elegance, subtlety, and refined complexity, enhanced by excellent acidity and mineral notes. In the glass, it has a pale straw color with green reflections. The nose is charming and enticing, offering a blend of citrus and stone fruit aromas that mingle with herbal, floral, waxy, and buttery hints. Light to medium-bodied on the palate, it feels incredibly fresh with razor-sharp acidity. The flavors mirror those on the nose—straight, focused, complex, layered, yet light on its feet. It is elegant and graceful like a ballerina, gently expanding toward a long, buttery, mineral finish. I would compare it to a lighter version of their Batard-Montrachet. Celine definitely has the magic touch!      

Domaine Xavier Monnot Volnay 1er Cru "Clos des Chenes" 2021

Xavier Monnot is a notable producer in Meursault, recognized for a winemaking style that highlights purity of fruit, elegance, and complexity. Before releasing the 2005 vintage, the estate was known as Domaine René Monnier, named after Xavier's grandfather. In 2005, with improvements to his vineyard and cellar, Xavier began bottling his wines under his own label. 

Domaine Xavier Monnot is a 42-acre estate in Meursault with vineyards stretching from Beaune to Maranges. Sixty percent of the Domaine's production is white and forty percent red, with several premier cru vineyards in Meursault, Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, Beaune, Volnay, and Maranges. Xavier believes in maintaining an average vine age of 30 to 40 years and practices "lutte raisonnée." (*)

Clos des Chênes is the largest premier cru in Volnay, situated between the premier cru of Taille Pieds and the border of Monthelie. The soil there has a high limestone content, producing wines with a perfumed character, finesse, and generous fruit notes. Half of Xavier Monnot’s 2-acre parcel was planted in 1936, with the other half planted in 1978. The wine is aged for 12 to 14 months in 30-35% new French oak. 

For this event, I chose a Volnay to pair with the Korean food, as Volnay is often described as silky and elegant, with high acidity and moderate tannins. The various premier crus situated south of the village, such as Clos des Chênes, have soil with a high percentage of limestone and exhibit the classic Volnay character of perfume and finesse.

Xavier Monnot Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chenes 2021 is a subtle yet underrated wine. It is generally light to medium-bodied, featuring high acidity, moderate to low alcohol content, and low tannin levels, which make it versatile, easy to enjoy, and suitable for pairing with food. In the glass, it presents a light garnet hue that is clear with medium intensity. Initially shy on the nose, it gradually opened up to reveal aromas of red and dark cherries, complemented by floral, herbal, and peppery notes. On the palate, it is light, fresh, vibrant, crisp, and acidic, while still offering complexity and finesse. After about an hour of airing, it mellowed and became perfectly balanced, complementing food without overpowering it. Strangely enough, this wine was not heavily affected by the oak, as there isn't much wood flavor for a wine aged 12-14 years in oak barrels. Nice wine! (even if a bit light for my taste).  

  

Domaine Nicolas Rossignol Pommard "Les Vignots" 2019

Born in 1974, Nicolas Rossignol is the fifth generation of winemakers in Volnay. He has been producing wine since 1994 at the family estate Rossignol-Jeanniard.

After studying winemaking in high school in Beaune, Nicolas gained experience working at various estates, including Domaine Joseph Voillot in Volnay, Domaine Louis Latour in Ardèche, and Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. He also worked in South Africa at Boschendal in 1995, and then in Bordeaux at Château La Cardonne, managed by Château Lafite Rothschild.

In 1997, he founded his own estate, which started with 3 hectares in the villages of Volnay, Pommard, Beaune, Aloxe-Corton, and Pernand-Vergelesses. By 1998, the estate grew to approximately 16 hectares.

In 2005, he expanded with new appellations: Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Fourneaux and Lavières, as well as Beaune 1er Cru Clos du Roy.

In 2011, all wines began to be produced under the label « Domaine Nicolas Rossignol, » encompassing a total of 30 different appellations. Nicolas moved to Beaune to allow for more space.

In 2014, he acquired an additional 1.5 hectares in the Pommard and Pommard 1er Cru appellations, thereby further increasing production.

By 2016, Nicolas planned to build a new winery to continue crafting high-quality wines. Today, the estate covers about 17 hectares.

"Les Vignots" is not a 1er Cru but a lieu-dit, and also the name of the plot, located above the hill of Pommard, near the Arvelets, on the Beaune side with a south exposure. The vines are planted on a steep slope with poor, rocky soil, which is a result of erosion. This plot (characterized by this terroir) wasn’t affected by Phylloxera in the 19th century; as a result, its vines were used to create grafted vines in Côte de Beaune. The vines are between 30 and 40 years old, typically producing fresh, mineral wines with chalky tannins. The sunny period and southern exposure help all elements reach perfect maturity.

Nicolas Rossignol's wines are crafted from carefully selected grapes from vineyards cultivated using traditional winemaking techniques inspired by biodynamic principles. The vineyard is managed with "reasoned" viticulture practices, considering the lunar influence during both cultivation and wine production & aging. No chemical herbicides are used; soil maintenance is achieved through light plowing.

Unfortunately, there's not much to say about this bottle of Pommard, as it didn't taste great, despite my high expectations, especially given the excellent 2019 vintage in Burgundy. And the worst part is that I couldn't tell if it was because it was a bad bottle or because I just dislike it... Already, on the nose, it displayed funky and earthy aromas. The palate was unharmonious, with rough edges, a lack of fruit, substance, and texture, and featured weird acidity and dry, earthy, almost green tannins that were out of place, along with a bitter, unripe finish. Definitely not my taste, and, needless to say, not in line with the quality of the vintage.  

Shame, I usually love the wines of Nicolas Rossignol, but this one was disappointing. Bad bottle? Maybe. I still have 2 bottles in stock. I will give it another try.     

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

(*) Lutte Raisonnée, which translates to "reasoned struggle" or "reasoned approach" in English, refers to an agricultural method, particularly in viticulture, where growers minimize chemical use but retain the option to apply them when essential to safeguard their crops. It serves as a balanced approach between conventional and organic farming, allowing growers to be environmentally conscious without the strict requirements of organic certification. 

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LeDomduVin: A "Whistling " Selection!

A "Whistling " Selection! 

I could have written an "impressive" selection, but I preferred using the word "whistling" instead, as an adjective, referring to the sound we sometimes make when we are really impressed. 😁👍🍷😙🎵🎵

I recently selected and served these wines at a private dinner, and they were absolutely delicious. 😋😋😋

Louis Roederer Cristal Champagne Brut 2015

A blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, Cristal 2015 is beautifully crafted, fresh, elegant, mineral, and highly refined. The blend is a subtle combination of the three emblematic vineyards of the house: one-third from the vineyards of "la Rivière," one-third from "la Montagne," and one-third from "la Côte." The crus used to make this exceptional champagne are Verzenay, Verzy, Beaumont-sur-Vesle, Ay, Avize, Mesnil-sur-Oger, and Cramant. Vinification takes place in wood for 25%. There is no malolactic fermentation. The dosage of this Brut Champagne is 7 grams per liter.

A beautiful, radiant, pale golden yellow color. It features lively bubbles and displays great finesse. The nose reveals vibrant, concentrated aromas of yellow fruits (white peach and mirabelle plum), with hints of hazelnut and roasted almonds. The palate is fresh, generous, and rich, with a silky texture that unveils notes of preserved citrus fruit and hints of spices. The palate emphasizes freshness and precision, culminating in a finish that features subtle woody and saline notes, resulting in a lovely blend of finesse and concentration. Love it! 

Fontaine-Gagnard Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2020

Fontaine-Gagnard represents a genuine Burgundian romance. The tale began in the 1980s when Richard Fontaine married Laurence Gagnard. Since 2007, Celine Fontaine has increasingly taken charge of winemaking from her father, leading to a remarkable rise in the quality of the wines in recent years.

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard has experienced an incredible rise in quality and reputation over the past decade. The wines exhibit fantastic purity and minerality, combined with a delightful weight and richness of fruit. This is a very sophisticated and stylish Domaine producing some of the most coveted wines from Chassagne-Montrachet, showcasing a remarkable intensity of fruit that beautifully conveys their outstanding terroir.

The Batard-Montrachet 2020 is an outstanding wine that combines elegance, refinement, and generosity with complexity and richness. It showcases a captivating pale golden color in the glass. The nose is exuberant and enticing, featuring aromas of white and yellow fruits mingling with buttery and toasted nuances, all enhanced by great minerality. The palate is gorgeous, generous, and creamy, extremely well-balanced and focused, with no harshness whatsoever. It is complemented by that unmistakable waxy mineral sensation that coats the palate from the attack and gently expands through to the seamless, lingering finish.  What a wine! Superb!    

Benjamin Leroux Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru 2018 (Mag)

Often referred to as the natural heir of Henri Jayer, Benjamin Leroux is one of the discreet rising stars crafting outstanding wines from village to Grand Cru levels, demonstrating a profoundly classic Burgundian style with a delightful, refreshing twist. His wines are classic in that they are not huge powerhouses, overly oaked, or excessively extracted. On the contrary, they blend freshness, elegance, silky texture, focus, and refinement in a soft, precise, and delicate manner.

At the age of 24, Benjamin Leroux assumed winemaking duties at Domaine Comte Armand, stepping in for his mentor, Pascal Marchand. This was a significant challenge for a young winemaker. Nevertheless, his inaugural wines in 1999 were hailed as the highlights of the vintage. Following his tenure at Comte Armand, he shifted his focus to his own winery in Beaune, where he runs a small négociant operation.

To produce his wines, Benjamin Leroux sources grapes (never juice or wine) from his vineyards and those of others, always selecting vineyards that practice over 50% organic viticulture and adhere to specific viticultural and environmental standards. Not one to shy away from challenging traditions, Benjamin Leroux also uses screw caps on some of his entry-level wines, ensuring that those intended for early consumption remain fresh and lively. 

As a Negociant rather than a vineyard owner, Benjamin Leroux's wines are highly sought-after by connoisseurs and sommeliers due to their limited quantities. His balanced, fresh, and versatile wines perfectly pair with all kinds of dishes.     

Benjamin Leroux's Griotte-Chambertin production is quite limited, with only one 450-liter barrel produced in some years (approximately 600 regular 750ml bottles, though often less since he also produces some magnums). This Grand Cru vineyard is among the smallest in Gevrey-Chambertin, with Leroux's vines located in the upper southern section. Leroux's contract for this vineyard concluded with the 2022 vintage, marking it as the last vintage of this wine under his winemaking. 

In 2022, I was fortunate enough to purchase two cases of six magnums of the 2018 vintage. I bought them more by instinct rather than knowledge, as I had heard of him but was not really familiar with his wines at the time, as I had never had the chance to taste them before. I opened two of these magnums for a private dinner back then, and they were the highlights of the night, with guests praising the wine's quality.    

A few days ago, at another private dinner where I opened the wines mentioned in this post, I had the opportunity to open another one of these magnums, and the wine had improved even more over the last three years since I acquired it.  

Leroux's Griotte-Chambertin 2018 in magnum is a masterpiece of elegance and silkiness. In the glass, it shows a discreet, medium-intensity garnet color. The nose is quite charming and unassuming, almost shy yet delivering very "à propos" fresh aromas of "griottes" (wild red cherries) and other red berries, mingling with fresh mineral, hearty, and floral notes. The palate is light and fresh, soft and silky, enhanced by excellent acidity, with an implied elegant complexity and delicate texture, even if not exuberant, inherent to most of Leroux's wines. This Griotte-Chambertin, like most of Leroux's wines, is sharp, precise, focused, and sophisticated. It was even more expressive after 45 minutes of being opened.  Loved it! 

      

Château Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 1998

No introduction is needed for this illustrious Chateau, which, as I have expressed so many times on this blog, is my favorite Bordeaux wine. The nose is fragrant, filled with intoxicating aromas of dark fruits and berries, including plum, as well as notes of forest floor and mushroom, mingling with those of oak, cigar, liquorice, and spices, alongside characteristic hints of tar and smoke. The palate reflects the nose’s flavors with greater intensity. It offers a medium to deep, layered, and complex character with a chewy texture, remaining lively and youthful due to its great acidity. It is well-structured with present yet integrated tannins. The lingering finish is earthy and presents tremendous potential for further ageing. This 1998 vintage is one of my favorites from the 90s, which has evolved beautifully over the past decade and promises to stand the test of time for many years to come. After about an hour, it became even more delightful, with additional secondary and tertiary notes, and a lot more licorice. What a beauty!            

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom 

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LeDomduVin: Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2020

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard 

Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2020

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard is in the village of Chassagne-Montrachet. It was established in 1985 by Laurence Gagnard and her husband, Richard Fontaine, following Laurence's inheritance of a portion of Domaine Gagnard-Delagrange.

Céline Fontaine (Laurence and Richard's daughter) joined her family estate in 2007 and now runs the Domaine, which encompasses 12 hectares of vineyards, mainly in Chassagne-Montrachet, across several Premiers Crus and a few plots in Volnay and Pommard.

They also hold holdings in the prestigious Grands Crus vineyards of Le Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet, and Criots-Batard-Montrachet and a few plots classified as Bourgogne rouge and Bourgogne blanc.

Their wine range covers 22 different appellations. Roughly two-thirds of production is devoted to white wine (around Chassagne-Montrachet) and one-third to red (Volnay and Pommard).

In the vineyard, they use sustainable agriculture methods to respect and be as close as possible to nature. They have adopted a less interventionist approach in the cellar, allowing the wines to reach their full potential and reveal each terroir's best expressions and characteristics.

They use natural indigenous yeasts. Aging takes place in oak barrels. The percentage of new oak varies from 15-20% for the Village appellations and 30-40% for the Premiers Crus and Grands Crus. The wines usually spend 12 months in oak for the whites and up to 18 months for the reds. Light fining and filtration before bottling.

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard is still "under the radar" and thus produces delicate yet complex and refined, classic-style Burgundian wines at very reasonable prices while only making a tiny amount. For example, this Batard-Montrachet hailed from only 0.3 hectares of vines out of the 11.24 hectares of this Grand Cru vineyard's surface.

Fontaine-Gagnard Batard-Montrachet 2020

Beyond its pale yellow color, the nose was light, fresh, elegant, mineral, zesty, and citrusy. At first, slightly restrained, the palate slowly opened, revealing a fresh, dry, mineral texture, good density, lots of lemony flavors, sharp acidity, and lightly toasted, oaky nuances. Nice, even if a bit light to my palate for a Batard-Montrachet. I would have loved to see a bit more substance and depth. Yet, it might benefit from a few more years in the cellar. 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

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Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2024, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).