Tuesday, November 27, 2012
2004 Bouchard Pere et Fils Le Corton Grand Cru Cote de Beaune Burgundy France
Le Corton Grand Cru
Clean, bright, clear cherry ruby color. Rich aromas of dark cherry and berries intermingle with floral, mineral, spicy, and peppery notes with a touch of earth. The palate is gorgeous, with rich flavors of ripe dark cherry and red berries framed by refreshing acidity. The finish is quite long, fresh, and mineral with slight herbal nuances, and present, young, and slightly astringent tannins. Yet, nothing major or unexpected for the 2004 vintage, which was not as ripe as 2003 or even as complex as 2005.
Although some aspects of the vintage 2004 resemble more of 2001, it also seems to be a good compromise between 2002 and 2006, two vintages with great whites and some interesting reds for those who will do the effort to search, taste then pick and choose the right producers and vineyards.
Overall, I think that this wine was really well crafted as it has great texture and structure, and the finish still has plenty of fruit to overcome the tannins and green notes on the finish.
Yet, it is still too young and green, in my opinion, and deserves a bit more time to get more integrated. Hoping that the green notes will somewhat diminish too, yet I'm not so sure about that as usually green notes, astringency, and bitterness never really disappear even with time, as if not ripe enough to start with, they will remain.
I can already hear people saying negative comments, but, at the end of the day, and despite what I said above, I still think that one should give more credit to this wine and to a certain extent to the vintage too. After all, compared to 2003 and 2005, 2004 remains a good bargain vintage, even if it was not highly rated in quality, some producers succeed to make some good and/or interesting wines. And, this wine confirmed, once again, that exceptions can exist even in odd vintage. It is only a matter of being open-minded and adventurous enough to find them.
Ledomduvin (a.k.a. Dominique Noel)
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