Monday, November 24, 2025

LeDomduVin: When wine friends meet (part 2)


When wine friends meet (part 2)



The day after the UGCB, we decided to meet again for dinner at Nissa la Bella (@nissalabellahk).  

A French bistro in Sheung Wan, where Olivier Bollenbach (@olivierboll) and the team took really good care of us. Really lovely food and wines! 


Left to right: François, Jerry, Minnie, Dom, Benoît, Olivier, Kim, Ophelia, and Martin.


We had an excellent time, having fun, sharing, and cheering. A great occasion to meet old friends, new people, discover a new place, and drink great wines, too.

Everyone brought some great bottles, and these are the wines we drank for dinner. 




Wines of the Dinner, from Left to right (on the picture above): 






Yann Durieux - Love and Pif - Bourgogne Aligoté (2023 ?)


Even though we were all working in the wine industry, directly or indirectly, at that dinner, I was surprised that some of us did not know Yann Durieux. 

Yann Durieux is a respected figure in the traditional and natural wine worlds, known for his biodynamic and natural winemaking practices, with a focus on minimal intervention, which allows his wines to express greater purity and terroir.   

Yann has been the vineyard manager at Domaine Prieuré Roch since 2008. Prieuré Roch, which has a "cult-like following" among fine wine collectors and connoisseurs, is considered a significant producer in Burgundy. 

Then, in 2010, he founded his own domain, "Recrue des Sens," and vinified his first three vintages in the cellars at Prieuré Roch, which attracted the press and critics and brought significant attention to his name, reputation, and wines. 

He now owns a few vineyards and makes white wines from Aligoté, Chardonnay, and Pinot Blanc, as well as various red wines from Pinot Noir, all aged in old or new barrels. He also makes an ‘orange’ wine from Aligoté (also from Pinot Gris, available on request)

Unfortunately, since he produces only 3,000-5,000 bottles per vintage, his wines are rare and highly sought after. They often do not receive formal notes or scores from the press or critics because, with such low production, it’s understandable that he cannot send samples to all international critics.        

Although more popular now and even trendy in some parts of the world (France, USA, etc.), some people still remain skeptical of natural wines because they often have funky, even faulty, aromas and flavors, along with flaws like a cloudy appearance, effervescence, "funky" or "barnyard" aromas, an unbalanced or unharmonious palate, and possible inconsistency between bottles. 

Even at that dinner, two winemakers attended and shared their concerns about the wine. But that was before tasting it; in the end, even they were pleasantly surprised, as Yann Durieux's wines are not like other Natural wines — they are clean, precise, and focused, with a lot to offer and to like.  

This wine is crafted with a focus on natural winemaking, including spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts and aging in steel and wooden barrels. It is typically bottled without fining or filtration, and with minimal or no added sulfites. 

The resulting wine is a vibrant Bourgogne Aligoté—fresh, clean, zesty, yet generous and complex, with lots of minerality, bright fruit notes, and a long finish. One of the best Bourgogne Aligotés I have tasted in a long time. 

Thank you, Martin, for bringing this bottle to dinner. First, because I am a big fan of Yann Durieux's wines, and it was nice to refresh my memory since I hadn't tasted his Bourgogne Aligoté in a long time. Second, it allowed some people to discover it for the first time. Good choice!  






Louis-Benjamin - Didier Dagueneau Pur Sang 2019 (Magnum)


This is one of the bottles I brought to dinner. The night before, I had dinner with Martin, Ophelia, and Minnie, and Martin and Ophelia treated us to some nice Pouilly Fumé, which inspired me to bring a magnum of this legendary wine, or should I say "this mythic cuvée" from Pouilly Fumé in the Loire (France).
 
Didier Dagueneau, a pioneering winegrower in the Loire, was a renowned expert in the Sauvignon Blanc variety and one of the first to apply biodynamic farming on his 11 hectares in the AOC Pouilly Fumé. 

I had the chance to meet Didier Dagueneau twice in the mid-90s, and even then, his wines were seen as revolutionary and unusual for the appellation because of their richness, concentration, and complexity, providing a sharp contrast to the typically light, grassy Sauvignon Blancs of that time. 

Didier Dagueneau challenged convention by adopting meticulous viticulture—including biodynamic practices starting in 1993—and barrel fermentation, which was uncommon for the region at the time. This led to wines with a distinct, fuller-bodied profile—much richer, more complex, and dense—along with higher aging potential than their peers within the appellation. 

Starting in the 1990s, Dagueneau wines gained a cult following, commanding prices similar to those of top Burgundy wines and becoming harder to find due to high demand and limited production. 

After Didier passed away in 2008, his son, Louis Benjamin Dagueneau, took over and continued his father's philosophy by crafting complex, layered Pouilly Fumé wines in a very Burgundian style (see this video interview of Didier Dagueneau, courtesy of "Le Média Vin").
 



Didier Dagueneau's "Pur Sang" is made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc from old-vine vines aged 25 to 60 years, planted in limestone, clay, and flint soils. It is considered one of the best crus in the AOC Pouilly Fumé. The vines are farmed using biodynamic practices with organic and ecological methods. The grapes are hand-harvested at peak ripeness. They are then gently pressed, and the must ferments spontaneously with native yeasts for 3 months. The wine then ages on lees for 11 months in oak barrels. 
 
The Didier Dagueneau winery is famous for its relentless pursuit of quality, and the cuvée "Pur Sang" is the perfect example; its name, “Pure Sang”, reflects its purity and unique character. 
 
I arrived at the restaurant about 30 minutes before everyone else and immediately opened the wine, knowing it would benefit from a bit of air to fully express itself. If it had been a younger vintage, I would definitely have decanted it, but for this 2019 vintage, 30-45 minutes of opening time before serving was plenty to let it open up nicely.   

This "Pure Sang" 2019 in magnum is a perfect example of concentration and precision, freshness and structure, and reveals the surprising complexity and depth Dagueneau's wines develop with some age. 

In the glass, it displayed a bright, pale yellow color. There is a liveliness in the nose enhanced by yellow fruits and citrus aromas blending with floral and mineral notes. The attack is stunning, clean, fresh, focused, precise, mineral, and zesty. The palate is elegant, chiseled, refined, yet complex and layered, gently coating the mouth, balanced, well-structured, and generously textured, with minerality and freshness that extend the aromatic and flavor profile. The finish is intense, prolonged, and immediately inviting for another glass. This is a magnificent, youthful wine with the potential to age gracefully for many more years (the magnum size likely helps). Gorgeous! And definitely in the Top 3 of the wines drank that night.     


NB: Last, but not least, all Dagueneau wines, including "Pur Sang," have been sold under the label "Vin de France" since 2017. Louis Benjamin Dagueneau decided to move his wines out of the "Pouilly Fumé" appellation due to criticism that his wines did not meet the traditional standards of Pouilly-Fumé. Fortunately, this decision did not affect the wine's reputation or quality. 






Le Guishu - French Saké Sec/Dry 


Following the two previous stunning white wines, Minnie brought us something rather intriguing and unexpected: a French Saké! 

I had heard and read about some of these "Sake made in France" brands, such as 

  • "Le Guishu": a collection of “Provence style French Sake” created in 2016, by Olivier Sublett (of Chateau Beausejour, Saint-Emilion), in parts imported in Hong Kong by "Wine to Love

  • "Wakaze": first created in Japan in 2016 by Takuma, Founder and CEO of Wakaze Sakagura, who opened a second brewery in the suburbs of Paris to share Wakaze with the world. 

  • "Les Larmes du Levant": the project of its founder, Gregoire Boeuf, supposedly the first French Sakagura entirely dedicated to the production of Sake, yet also created in 2016 (same year as the other Sakagura) 

However, I had never heard of the brand "French Saké". Minnie (Wong) imports and distributes it to Hong Kong via her company "Wine to Love", as it is made by "Le Guishu" (it took me a minute to realize it after looking at the capsule, as I was focused on the front label, where "Le Guishu" is not mentioned). 

They make 2 or 3 different versions of it: Sec (Dry), Demi-Sec (Semi-Dry), and Semi-Sweet, using French ingredients, like rice from the Camargue region, and blend Japanese brewing traditions with French terroirs to create distinct flavor profiles. 

And the one Minnie brought that night was the "French Sake Sec/Dry". Frankly, I did not know what to think or what to expect. But I was really pleasantly surprised. Not too dry, not too sweet either, expressive but not extravagant either, just a gentle, quaffable, agreeable, soft Sake that tasted more like a wine compared to a Japanese Sake, for example. It went really well with the oysters.   






Jaffelin Fixin 1er Cru Hervelets 2020


This was the 2nd bottle Minnie brought for this dinner.  I had heard of "Maison Jaffelin" but had never had the chance to taste their wine.  

Located in the heart of Beaune, Maison Jaffelin has a rich winemaking history spanning over eight centuries. It was formerly known as "Maison du Chapitre" ('house of the Chapter' in English), and its history is closely connected to that of the Collégiale Notre-Dame de Beaune (the Notre-Dame collegiate church in Beaune). Over the years, their cellars have stored the wines of the Collégiale and the Cardinals.

In 1816, "Maison du Chapitre" was renamed "Maison Jaffelin" after being purchased by the Jaffelin brothers, who established their "Maison de Négoce" (Negociant House) to trade wine. Their wines are crafted, aged, and stored in the monastic tranquility of the Chapiter's cellars as they did eight centuries ago.

Fixin is a small village located in the northern part of the Côte de Nuits, just south of Dijon, between Marsannay and Gevrey-Chambertin. The climat "1er Cru Hervelets" sits at the top of an east-facing slope, mainly on chalky-brown soil with hints of marl. This climat is situated next to the lieu-dit "Les Arvelets." The area used to be just fields. « Hervelet », like « Arvelet », is a diminutive of « Arve » in Old French and « Arva » in Vulgar Latin, meaning « fields ».

This Fixin 1er Cru Hervelets is made from handpicked and hand-sorted Pinot Noir grapes. The maceration usually lasts 3-4 weeks, typically with 40-50% of the grapes whole. The wines are then aged for 16-18 months in French oak barrels, about 50% of which are new.

The wine initially seemed a bit closed, but it quickly opened up in the glass. It revealed lovely aromas of ripe, dark cherries and black fruits, such as blackberries and morello cherries, along with earthy and floral notes, and hints of pepper. The palate is juicy and medium-bodied, offering generous black fruit flavors and additional earthy notes. This 2020 vintage is a fresh, vivid, friendly, and juicy wine that is easy to drink, with good balance and freshness, a lovely texture, and an integrated tannic structure. Gouleyant as we say in French! 






Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle 1990


Now, this bottle was the highlight of the night! The treat of the evening, brought by Jerry, Martin's friend, and clearly an avid fine wine expert. What a fantastic wine! No wonder it has been scored 100 points by many critics and journalists multiple times over the past 30 years.   

Furthermore, Paul Jaboulet's Hermitage La Chapelle is often recognized as one of the top 100 greatest wines in the world, with its 1961, 1978, and 1990 vintages frequently noted as especially outstanding examples. It is a legendary Syrah from the Northern Rhône Valley that has appeared on many "best wines" lists and is celebrated for its longevity and rich, savory character. 

Despite a production of about 7000 cases for the 1990 vintage compared to today's 2,000 cases, there aren't many bottles of La Chapelle 1990 left on the market, as many were drunk in the past 30 years, and the rest are primarily kept in private collections or occasionally sold at auction houses. 

The wine currently fetches around 660 Euros on average in retail stores. In auctions, bidding prices start around 500 Euros a bottle, but can go up to 700+ euros if the bottles are from the original release, have good levels and labels, and are still in their original cartons, which are increasingly difficult to find.  

Paul Jaboulet Aîné was founded in 1834 by Antoine Jaboulet (1807-1864) in Tain l'Hermitage. It has been part of the Rhône Valley wine industry for nearly two centuries, starting with a small plot of land on the hills of Hermitage before expanding throughout the region. Today, it covers more than 100 hectares (250 acres) of vineyards producing wines from the Northern and Southern Rhône, including Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Condrieu, and Cornas.

In 1834, Antoine Jaboulet started working the hills of Hermitage, growing and cultivating the vines that would shape the future of the estate. When he died, the estate was inherited by his sons Henri and Paul, with the latter eventually lending his name to wines and the company. Maison Jaboulet remained in the Jaboulet family until it was purchased by the Frey family in 2006.

Paul Jaboulet-Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle is the estate's flagship wine and one of the most popular wines from the Rhône, commanding high prices at auction. "La Chapelle" is not the name of the vineyard; it is a trademark named after a 13th-century church built on top of Hermitage, which became the company's property in 1919. 

The La Chapelle vineyard is part of the AOP "L'Hermite," located around the small chapel (La Chapelle) at the top of Hermitage Hill, planted with 80-year-old Syrah vines growing mostly in granite soil. 

However, the Syrah grapes used to make Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle do not come from the La Chapelle vineyard, but from some of the top vineyards on the hill, including the famous "Les Bessards," "Le Meal," and "Les Rocoules." (see picture/map below, courtesy of https://www.tenzingws.com/) 


Map of The Hermitage Hill and all of its lieux-dits - courtesy of Tenzingws.com blog


It was thoughtful of Jerry to bring such an extraordinary bottle. He told me he bought it at auction a few years ago. The bottle was in pristine condition. However, I borrowed Olivier's "Durand" to open the bottle, since after removing the capsule, I noticed the cork showed a slight sign of seepage and was probably wet.  And I was right to do so, as even with the Durand, the cork broke and crumbled, and I had to fetch a piece of it left in the neck. Fortunately, I removed it with a bit of patience and skill.    

Despite the cork incident, this 1990 La Chapelle was still in perfect condition. Even the dark and intense color still showed some youth. The nose was stunning, expressive, youthful, and sexy, offering attractive aromas of blackberries and dark ripe fruits, mingling with coffee, mocha, earthy, and spicy hints. The palate was smooth, velvety, rich, opulent, and generously suave, with great freshness and fleshy texture, enhanced by present yet integrated tannins, leading to a seamless, long-lasting chewy finish. What a magnificent wine! Definitely the wine of the night!     






Château La Cabanne Pomerol 2022


This bottle was brought by François Estager himself (the first person on the left in the header picture), owner and winemaker of this delightful Pomerol. Some of us had already tasted it the day before, during the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) tasting featuring wines from the 2022 vintage at the Regent Hotel, Hong Kong. However, it was great to taste it again with François sitting with us at the table.     

Owned by the Estager family since 1952, Château La Cabanne is a historic Pomerol red wine estate situated on the western slope of the Pomerol plateau in the Bordeaux region of France. The estate features a 10-hectare vineyard primarily planted with Merlot (94%) and Cabernet Franc (6%), grown on clay and gravel soils. 

La Cabanne is known for producing well-balanced wines with fruity and sometimes earthy, savory notes. The estate underwent extensive renovations after a fire in 2010. The winemaking process includes aging the wine for 15-18 months in partly new oak barrels and involves sulfur-free vinification from a vineyard in conversion to organic farming. 

The 2022 Château La Cabanne is composed of about 94% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc, aged in about 55% French oak barrels for about 15 to 18 months. In the glass, it displays a dark ruby color. The nose is fragrant and youthful, with aromas of black fruit, chocolate, and earthy notes. The palate is rich, full-bodied, layered, earthy, and savory, with a lush yet fleshy texture, good acidity, fine tannins, and a long, chewy finish. Although very drinkable now, it will benefit from a few more years in the cellar to fully develop, as it is pretty powerful at the moment and will continue to improve with additional aging.  Nicely done, François!  






Château Le Bon Pasteur Pomerol 2022


Opening bottles of Chateau Le Bon Pasteur and spending time with Benoit Prévot always feels nostalgic for me because, in 2013, I worked for Goldin, the company that acquired the Chateau from Michel Rolland. I was part of a small team that spent about five months living at the Chateau in Pomerol (Bordeaux, France) to manage the transition. 

As a result, I grew very fond of the Chateau, the wines, and the people working there, including Benoit, who has been the winemaker at Bon Pasteur for the past 30 years. Although I left Goldin more than 4 years ago, Benoit and I remained good friends, and the UGCB tasting is always a good occasion to spend a little time together when he comes to Hong Kong.   

For those unfamiliar with this wine, Château Le Bon Pasteur is a Pomerol estate in Bordeaux, France, known as the original family vineyard of renowned oenologist Michel Rolland. It is celebrated for producing elegant, refined red wines from a 6.7-hectare vineyard spread across 21 plots, combining the softness of Pomerol with hints of Saint-Émilion's strength. 

The chateau is owned by the Goldin Group, headed by Mr. Pan Sutong, who bought the property from the Rolland Family in 2013. The property management and winemaking are insured by Benoit Prévot, with Michel (and Dany) Rolland as consultants. The estate mainly cultivates Merlot (80%) and Cabernet Franc (20%), and makes two wines: Chateau Le Bon Pasteur (grand vin) and L'Étoile de Bon Pasteur (2nd wine).   

This bottle was brought by Benoit Prévot himself (the person on the right at the end of the table in the header picture above), the winemaker of this illustrious Pomerol. Some of us had already tasted it the day before, during the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) tasting featuring wines from the 2022 vintage at the Regent Hotel, Hong Kong. However, it was great to taste it again with Benoit sitting with us at the table.

Chateau Le Bon Pasteur is typically a blend of approximately 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, sourced from vineyards surrounding the Chateau. These vineyards are mainly planted on gravel-clay soils, with an average vine age of 40 years, and are certified sustainable viticulture (HVE Level 3). The grapes are hand-harvested and double-sorted before and after destemming. The vinification process involves cold maceration for 5 to 7 days before fermentation. All vinification occurs in French oak barrels, and the wine is typically aged for about 15 months, with 50% new barrels. 

Château Le Bon Pasteur 2022 displays a very dark, dense color in the glass. The nose is fragrant and vivid, with aromas of black fruits and berries (like raspberry and blackcurrant), combined with hints of violet, licorice, and spices. The palate is rich, creamy, and full-bodied, with a silky texture and refined tannins that provide a solid structure and ample ageing potential. The finish is long, persistent, and elegant. Although very enjoyable now, it will definitely benefit from a few more years in the cellar to reach its full potential. Well done, Benoit! A beautiful wine!    






Château Troplong Mondot Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 1988


This old bottle of Troplong Mondot 1988 was a birthday gift from a colleague two or three years ago. I kept it at home, but since I don't have a wine fridge (I usually drink my bottles too quickly 😅), the storage conditions weren't ideal. So, I thought bringing it to a dinner with winemakers, experts, and connoisseurs would be a perfect opportunity to taste it and see if it had been affected by poor storage.  

I didn't know what to expect from a 37-year-old bottle stored in questionable conditions. Furthermore, 1988 is a vintage rated as "excellent," especially for sweet wines from Sauternes and Barsac, but only "good" for the reds of the Right Bank, like Pomerol and Saint-Émilion. It’s a vintage often overshadowed by the more celebrated 1989 and 1990 vintages, which overall produced much better Bordeaux wines.  

One of the friends at the table reminded us that back then, wine had more tannins and chateaux like Troplong Mondot were often austere when young and needed time to open up, so it should be fine. And I couldn't agree more with that statement, having experienced it myself by tasting many 80s wines over my 33 years in the wine industry.    

Both the capsule and label were in good condition, and, surprisingly, the long cork was as well (estimated at 5.4 mm by Benoit). Maybe a later release from the Chateau.   

Troplong Mondot 1988 is a blend of 85% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Cabernet Franc. It displayed a relatively young color for its age, of medium intensity, with light brown hints. The nose was subdued at first, but then opened nicely in the glass. I could have decanted it as soon as I arrived at the restaurant, but I chose not to, fearing that too much air might oxidize it. Secondary and tertiary aromas of black currant, leafy tobacco, underbrush, and spice, mingling with floral and earthy nuances, emerged on the nose. The palate was smooth and silky, medium-bodied and somewhat one-dimensional, yet with good freshness, concentration, and balance from start to finish. Surprisingly, this wine is still very much alive and kicking, with enough texture, structure, and balance between the fruit, acidity, and tannins to remain enjoyable now and even age for a few more years, despite having passed its prime. Not bad at all for a 37-year-old wine kept in poor conditions! Loved it!    






Bussola Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Vigneto Alto (1999 or 2009 ?)


This bottle was brought by Jerry, Martin's friend. And although I usually like Amarone, especially those from such a legendary winemaker as Tommaso Bussola, I must admit that this was my least favorite wine of the dinner.  I have opened countless bottles of this wine in my career, and that is the first time I did not like it.  

The Amarone Classico "Vigneto Alto" is a limited selection sourced primarily from the Alto parcel, home to the estate's oldest vines. The vineyard called “Vigneto Alto” is located in San Peretto di Negrar, at an altitude of 280 meters, with a south-east exposure, planted with 75-90-year-old vines, trained with the Pergola Veronese system. 

The grapes used to produce Amarone Classico “Vigneto Alto” are harvested in mid-September. The blend consists of 45% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, and 25% Rondinella. The grapes are brought to the Fruttaio and placed on wooden trays where they dry naturally for four months. 

In January, the grapes are carefully selected and pressed into truncated-cone oak vats, where fermentation begins after about 15 days with native yeasts. Over the next 60 days, several pump-overs and delestage processes are performed to submerge the skins. The wine is then racked off and transferred to a steel tank to separate it from the gross lees. 

After approximately 20 days, it is racked off again and transferred to wooden barrels for about 90 months (or roughly 7 and a half years) of fermentation and aging. Then, it is usually bottled after about 9 years of aging, and it stays in the bottle for 2 more years before being sold. The production amounts to approximately 3.500 bottles.


So, why didn't I like it? Because I found it harsh, dry, and austere. Most Amarone I have tasted tend to be sweeter and rounder, with overripe, pruney flavors. But this one was very earthy, with hints of tar and soil. Since I usually avoid writing negatively about a wine to prevent influencing others or discouraging them from trying it, I will stop here. Maybe it was a bad bottle? Or perhaps it just wasn't to my taste? I'm not sure. It's odd for such a well-known wine with a strong pedigree.    






Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey 1er Grand Cru Sauternes 2017


This bottle of Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey 2017 was the third bottle I brought to this dinner, and it was the last one we drank before ending our dinner at Nissa la Bella (@nissalabellahk).

I'm a salt guy! I love salt more than sugar, and I usually prefer a cheese plate over dessert. I must say, I’d much rather enjoy my dessert in a glass alongside my cheese plate than on a plate after eating cheese, like most people do. Don't get me wrong, I also love a good dessert sometimes. However, nothing beats a cheese plate (or platter if you prefer), especially blue cheese, paired with a glass of Sauternes (or sweet wine in general) to finish a meal.     

I love Sauternes. As a Bordeaux native, the grandson of a winemaker, and someone who grew up in a family partly involved in the wine industry, I became very familiar with wine from an early age, mainly white and red. I must have tasted my first sweet wines during my mid-teen years. And if I remember correctly, it was a Monbazillac, then a Saint-Croix-du-Mont, and a Jurançon sweet. Later, in my late teens, in the early 90s, I tasted a Sauternes. And I loved it! 

Coincidentally, my first Sauternes was a "Lafaurie-Peyraguey". I can't remember the exact vintage, but I believe it was from the late 80s.  It was sweet, but not overly sweet. And I love it as I never tried a sweet wine like before, combining generosity, unctuosity, and sweetness with freshness and balance, as well as elegance, concentration, and length. It was amazing! And Lafaurie-Peyraguey, 2017, I brought to this dinner reminded me a lot of it. It was stunning!   


In January 2014, Swiss businessman Silvio Denz bought the Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey from GDF Suez, a Sauternes First Classified Growth estate in the same-named region south of Bordeaux, and restored it to its former glory. 

He invested heavily in restoring the property and the cellars, revamped (or modernized, if you prefer) the label for their 2013 vintage, and also began using the engraved bottle featuring the Lalique "Femme et Raisins" ("Woman and Grapes") motif. This design was originally created by René Lalique in 1928 for the interior panels of the Côte d'Azur Pullman-Express sleeping cars. 

The adoption of this unique bottle design came after Silvio Denz, CEO of Lalique, purchased the Château in early 2014 and aimed to blend the "gold of Sauternes with the crystal of Lalique." The engraved design has been a permanent feature on all bottles produced by the estate from that vintage onward.

In June 2018, the "LALIQUE" Hotel and Restaurant, built within the stunning 13th-century-old castle,  opened its doors to celebrate Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey's 400th anniversary

A challenging year full of contrasts, 2017 nevertheless proved to have provided ideal conditions for producing unforgettable Sauternes. It was clearly an exceptional year for Sauternes sweet wines. Thanks to excellent health conditions at the end of August and late-season weather in September, the noble rot could develop perfectly on the fully ripened grapes. 

This resulted in the perfect quality of botrytized Sémillon (95% of the blend) and Sauvignon Blanc (5% of the blend), with very concentrated aromas and sugars, great acidity and perfect balance.

Château Lafaurie Peyraguey 2017 displays a very attractive pale golden hue. The nose is clean, fresh, charming, rich, and fragrant, with enticing aromas of honey, peach, apricot, pineapple, mango, vanilla, and brioche. The indulgent, smooth, focused, precise, and harmonious palate offers a perfect balance of sugar, acidity, and freshness, from the fresh, fruity attack to the long, seamless sweet finish. Lafaurie-Peyraguey 2017 is an exceptional Sauternes! 



These wines were a great lineup! It is not every day I open wines such as these stunning examples of their respective appellations, terroirs, and regions.  What a treat!!!



After dinner, we finished the night at a great wine bar, called "Think Wine" by Romain Loriot (@thinkwine.hongkong), where we drank a few more wines.  



Kim, Ophelia, Martin, Francois, Minnie, Benoit, Olivier, Olivier's wife




Granbazan 'Etiqueta Àmbar' Albarino Rias Baixas (2021 ?)


Baptiste Pimouguet, Dominique Noël & Romain Loriot


Then Romain Loriot treated us to an interesting blind tasting of two Cabernet Sauvignons from China. 




Jiang Yu Cabernet Sauvignon "6000 Li" Shangri-La Yunnan 2022



Tinnyu "Random Cabernet" Shangri-La Yunnan 2023


Francois, Jerry, Minnie, Dom, Benoit, Olivier, Kim, Ophelia & Martin


Kim, Ophelia, Martin, Francois, Minnie, Benoit, Olivier, Olivier's wife



A beautiful evening spent with some old and new friends.

It was great to see you all and spend this memorable moment with you guys! Loved it! 😁👍🍷🍷🍷

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #wine #vin #vino #wein  #hongkong #hk #friends #winefriends #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife #lovewine #dinner #bistro #winebar 


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LeDomduVin: When wine friends meet (part 1)


Wilson Kwok, Francois Estager, Minnie Wong, Benoit Prévot, Dominique Noel & Martin Brady

When wine friends meet (part 1)




UGCB - Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux - Hong Kong 2025 - Nov 21st at The Regent Hotel HK (@hongkongregent) 

The UGCB is always a really good occasion to meet and catch up with friends you haven't seen for a while. It was good to see you and spend a moment with you guys! 
😁👍🍷🍷🍷

Left to right in the first picture: 

Wilson Kwok - Wine lover and promoter (and much more)
(@travelkwokovin) 

François Estager - Château La Cabanne 
(@chateaulacabanne) 

Minnie Wong - Easiness Wine
(@wminniem) (@easinesswine) 

Benoît Prévot - Château Le Bon Pasteur
(@chateaulebonpasteur) 

Dominique Noël (Myself)
(@ledomduvin)

Martin Brady - Acker Wines
(@martin_brady67)



Martin Brady, Dominique Noel & Minnie Wong



Wilson Kwok, Minnie Wong, Dominique Noel & Martin Brady



Benoit Prévot, Minnie Wong & Dominique Noel



Voilà! It was a very nice event, and the 2022 Bordeaux vintage is really good, too. 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #wine #vin #vino #wein #tasting #UGCB #uniondesgrandscrusdebordeaux #hongkong #hk #2025 #regenthotelhk #friends #winefriends #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife #ilovemyjob #lovewine 

Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2025, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, logos, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, lyrics and even music and video (when and where applicable).

LeDomduVin: UGCB - Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux - Hong Kong 2025 - Vintage 2022 Tasting


UGCB - Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux - Hong Kong 2025 - Nov 21st. at The Regent Hotel HK (@hongkongregent), Vintage 2022 Tasting. 




Here are a few "Coup de Cœur" from the UGCB HK 2025 (@ugcbwines). 

I particularly enjoyed these wines. Of course, I also enjoyed many others, but didn't necessarily took a picture, as it was packed and also talked a lot, so not enough time to taste them all and to visit everyone. 

It was good to see so many people attending this tasting. It is reassuring and a proof that wine is still alive and kicking, and that people continue to drink and appreciate wine. There is still some hope. 😁👍🍷🍷🍷


Left to right: 



Benoît Prévot - Château Le Bon Pasteur

(@chateaulebonpasteur) 





François Estager - Château La Cabanne 

(@chateaulacabanne) 





Lauren Laudrin - Château Petit Village & Beauregard 

(@chateaupetitvillage)





Elise de Bailliencourt - Château Gazin 

(@chateaugazin)





Qin Jiang - Château Haut-Bailly 

(@chateauhautbailly) 





Marc Perrin - Château Carbonnieux

(@chateaucarbonnieux)





Adrien Bernard - Domaine de Chevalier 

(@domainedechevalier) 





(je n'ai pas demandé son nom😅) - Château La Lagune 

(@chateaulalaguneofficiel)





Marion Millaire - Château Cantemerle

(@chateau_cantemerle)





Erwan Le Brozec - Château Beychevelle

(@beychevelle1855)





Matthieu Bordes - Château Lagrange

(@chateaulagrange)





Fiona Rim.... - Châteaux Léoville Barton & Langoa Barton

(@bartonwine)



Voilà! It was a lovely event and the vintage 2022 is really good, too. 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #wine #vin #vino #wein #tasting #UGCB #uniondesgrandscrusdebordeaux #hongkong #hk #2025 #regenthotelhk #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife #ilovemyjob #lovewine 


Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2025, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, logos, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, lyrics and even music and video (when and where applicable).

Thursday, November 20, 2025

LeDomduVin: Wine doesn’t have to be expensive to be good! And my perspective on the "Bordeaux Paradox" and its "illogical logic" within its pricing strategy...


Wine doesn’t have to be expensive to be good!

And my perspective on the "Bordeaux Paradox" 
and its "illogical logic" within its pricing strategy...


Ok, granted, these wines (on the picture above) are not cheap, as they cost between HK$335 and HK$650 (about 38-75 euros), which makes them expensive for most people. But you get what I'm trying to say.  

People always think that the more expensive a wine is, the better it is! In theory, yes, it should be. In reality, that is not always the case. In fact, I have tasted plenty of wines in my career that were way too expensive for the poor quality they offer, despite their history, name, appellation, pedigree, and/or rank. 

There's no real point in naming names or blaming anyone. Still, I've tasted wines that are supposedly worth thousands of dollars or euros, whose names alone suggest luxury, custom craftsmanship, limited production, and excellence in the glass. Yet, they weren't that good.       

A well-known name, pedigree, rank, or classification doesn't necessarily mean the wine is good, especially in lesser vintages.   

In Burgundy, the vineyards' classification (Village, 1er Cru, Grand Cru) does determine a certain standard of quality, that's true. However, the expertise and techniques used by winemakers can vary greatly, which is why two wines from the same Premier Cru or even Grand Cru vineyard, but made by two different winemakers or domaines, can taste completely different. One may taste much better than the other, and it might not cost more. Domaine's name, reputation, history, and high demand usually command high prices, but the wine may not be worth that much when tasting it! (Writing these lines, a few examples came to my mind right away, but I won't tell to prevent extended argumentation).    

In Bordeaux, the same is true: some 3rd, 4th, and 5th Growths surpass the quality of certain 1er and 2nd Cru Grands Crus. Château Palmer, for example, which is a 3rd growth, often outperforms some 1st and 2nd growths in certain years. Château Pontet Canet, a 5th growth, is another excellent example; it offers fantastic value for money compared to many of the other châteaux ranked above it.   

My advice is to never assume a wine's quality until you have tasted it yourself and evaluated it based on your palate. Never let the name, reputation, history, classification, rank, pedigree, scores, medals, stars, or price influence your judgment. If possible, taste it first and decide whether it is really worth the asking price.   

As I often point out, during my years as a Store manager and wine buyer for niche retailers in New York (2002-2011), I learned to buy like an American, meaning, give me the best vintages at the best prices! I learned how to negotiate prices and, more importantly, how to say "NO" when I did not like the wine and/or the price was too high!  

My other advice as a buyer is always to focus on the best vintages first, the wines that offer immediate pleasure and satisfaction. Know what you can sell and how many you can realistically sell within a three-month period to maximize your profit and turnover. This approach will help you renew your stock and enable you to propose and offer different wines based on the season, demand, and market trends. 

The market and consumers' habits have changed; people no longer have time to listen to your explanations about why the wine is good. The wine needs to speak for itself, and the price needs to reflect its quality. 

I find it very frustrating when sommeliers in restaurants offer lesser vintages of classified growths or Grand Cru. It is understandable because they mark them up highly (even if the price seems lower than better vintages), and at the same time, it gives you the impression that you can access and taste these wines. However, some of these wines in lesser vintages are not always worth the asking prices.      

For example, if you see a Petrus or Lafite from a 2011 or 2013 vintage, those vintages are not good, and I can tell you from my own experience that they are not worth it. As mentioned above, a well-known name, pedigree, rank, or classification doesn't necessarily mean the wine is good, especially in lesser vintages. There's no reason to spend money on wines that may disappoint you, especially if you bought them to impress or please your guests, as they might be disappointed by both the wine and your poor choice.     

 



January 2025 Market Report - Liv-ex - Courtesy of Liv-Ex 



Fine wine prices have gradually yet significantly increased over the past 25 years. Although they dropped to their lowest point since late 2015 to early 2016 around March-April 2020, they quickly rose again, reaching their peak in 2022. This followed a wave of price hikes in the 4 or 5 vintages before, with a 28.5% increase between February 2020 and February 2022.  

In Burgundy, prices increased because of strong demand for limited-production (on average approximately 10,000 to 12,000 bottles per year per Domaine), high-end wines, which is understandable and somewhat justified, even if it’s a bit painful for your wallet. 

While in Bordeaux, where production per Château is much higher (on average around 100,000 to 140,000 bottles per year per Château), prices usually increase from one year to the next, based on the quality of the previous vintage rather than the wines' intrinsic quality.  

For example, if the quality of the last vintage was poor, obviously, the price of the current vintage will go up. 

It might seem logical, if you keep your prices within a certain range—for example, if your wine is worth $100 in a normal year, you might lower it to $80 in a lesser year, and raise it to $120 in a better year, maybe up to $150 in exceptional years. 

And it seems fair if, despite inflation, you try to maintain your prices within this range to ensure consistency and avoid confusing and upsetting your clients with a roller-coaster of incoherent prices. 

Unfortunately, the problem in Bordeaux is that they rarely follow that logic and even more rarely maintain prices within a certain range, as prices seldom decrease and tend to increase year after year (as we witnessed in recent years).   

Let's take a concrete example with Château Lafite Rothschild, as the prices of the first growths are usually the reference or benchmark for the rest of the Haut-Médoc appellations (and, to a certain extent, for Bordeaux Top 500 wines in general).

Since a visual is worth a thousand words, I made this table below to help you see at a glance the price differences (based on the En Primeur Release Price Ex-Negociant) from one vintage to the next, along with the percentage changes (increase or decrease) compared to the previous vintage, across 22 years (2003 to 2024).     


Chateau Lafite-Rothschild En Primeur Ex-Negociant prices comparison 2003 to 2024



Château Lafite Rothschild is a good example because, as shown in this table, the pricing doesn’t make much sense (at least to me) and shows significant disparities. It seems the pricing doesn’t follow any logical pattern or reflect the quality of specific vintages. 

And yet, to fully comprehend why, we need to put things back into context with a bit of history. 

In the early 2000s, Lafite Rothschild (and Bordeaux in general) was in favor and therefore in high demand in the Chinese market, which significantly influenced the rise in Bordeaux prices. Cases of Bordeaux often served as gifts or money of exchange against favors (e.g., "If you do this for me, I'll give you 10 cases of Lafite Rothschild."). 

And at that time, it was working really well for both parties, as Château Lafite Rothschild was in such high demand in China (and Asia in general) that its increasing value over time ensured a good deal of money was earned (or saved) for both. 

And the Bordelais surfed on that wave for a good decade before things turned sour, when the current President of China, Xi Jinping, assumed the role of General Secretary of the Chinese Communist Party (CCP) Central Committee, and launch a far-reaching anti-corruption campaign in China following the conclusion of the 18th National Congress of the Chinese Communist Party (CCP) in 2012.

This anti-corruption campaign reached its full power when Xi Jinping became President of China in March 2013. It ended more than a decade of wine corruption, bribery, and payments in "pot de vin". And with it came the downfall of Bordeaux wines.  


Now that we have things more in context, and before we get further into the decline of Bordeaux, let's go through some of the most obvious disparities in the table above to explain their causes or find a logical basis for the pricing. 


1. Price between Lafite Rothschild 2005 and 2006 vintages

There is a difference between the prices of the 2005 vintage (141 Euros) and the 2006 vintage (270 Euros), which is quite strange, as (interestingly enough), the 2005 vintage is considered, for Lafite (and Bordeaux in general), a better vintage than 2006. 

Therefore, 2006 should have been released at a lower price rather than at a 47.8% increase. It does not make sense, but here is why such a difference occurred.     

The 2006 Lafite-Rothschild was released at a higher price than the 2005 because the 2006 was priced not based on the vintage's quality (particularly compared to the previous vintage), but on expectations of a strong market and high demand, partly driven by the immense success of the 2005 vintage and the growing influence of Asian buyers, even though many considered 2005 the superior vintage. 

Although 2005 was considered a "super-vintage," its high initial prices and subsequent market boom established a new price standard for future top-quality vintages, including 2006, especially given the rising "Lafite premium" in Asia. 


2. Price between Lafite Rothschild 2005 and 2007 vintages

Logically, since 2007 was a lower-quality vintage than 2006, its release price (240 Euros) was lower than that of the 2006 vintage (270 Euros). 

However, following the "illogical logic" of Bordeaux pricing, even though 2007 was of much lower quality than 2005, its release price of 240 Euros was much higher than 2005's at 141 Euros. This makes no sense at all! The 2007 price should have been lower than the 2005 price! 

But that is the core issue of the "Bordeaux Paradox": prices are based on the previous vintage, market expectations, and demand (not supply, as most Top 500 Bordeaux Chateaux produce a large number of bottles, ranging from 240,000 to 400,000 bottles annually). 

So, following their logic, the price of 2006 (270 Euros) was so high compared to 2005 (141 Euros) that it did not make sense for them to lower the release price of 2007 below 200 Euros, even if the quality of 2007 was much inferior to 2005.  Go figure!    



Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 2008 engraved bottle 
with the vintage and the Chinese symbol for the number 8



3. Price between Lafite Rothschild 2007 and 2008 vintages

That leads us to the next disparity: the considerable gap between the En Primeur Ex-Négociant price for 2007 (240 euros) and for 2008 (695 euros).  

Even if the 2008 vintage was of much higher quality than the 2007 vintage, this generally doesn't justify a 445 Euro price difference between the two vintages, even in Bordeaux. So, what actually happened? 

The release price of Château Lafite 2008 was very high due to several factors, including a strong Robert Parker score (98/100), its potential to be considered the wine of the vintage, and a strategic marketing shift by the château targeting the Chinese market's belief that the number 8 brings good luck. The chateau added an engraved Chinese symbol for the number 8 to the bottle (see picture above), which caused prices to rise sharply as demand from Asia was very strong, even though the vintage was good but not as good as 2005, 2006, or 2009, which are considered of superior quality in Bordeaux. 

Basically, the high price difference was due to a gimmicky marketing stunt to make more money and capitalize on a cultural belief. Not very ethical...   Yet, it was a very successful stunt in China!

And, in my true and honest opinion, that's when Lafite Rothschild (and those who followed that trend in Bordeaux at the time) shot themselves in the foot. It was the beginning of the end!  Although sales were outstanding in China (and Asia in general), the pill had been much more difficult to swallow in Europe and the US.  

Imagine explaining to your European and American clients that 3 years earlier, they paid around 200 Euros (retail price) for a 2005 vintage, and now they have to pay around 800 Euros (retail price) for a bottle of the 2008 vintage, which is not even considered as good as the 2005? How to explain a 600 euros difference for a lesser vintage? How do you want them to understand? Impossible!   


4. Price between Lafite Rothschild 2008 and 2009 vintages

After making a considerable profit on the 2008 vintage at 695 Euros per bottle (En Primeur Release price Ex-Negociant), they reduced the price of their 2009 vintage to 550 Euros, a 26.4% decrease from the 2008 price, even though 2009 is actually a much better vintage than 2008. 

However, due to the significant price increase of the 2008 vintage and because 2009 is a much better vintage than 2007, they couldn't lower the price of the 2009 vintage too much and go back below 300 Euros. Instead, they priced it at 550 Euros, a staggering increase of 74.4% compared to the 2005 vintage at 141 Euros a bottle, 50.9% more than the 2006 vintage at 270 Euros a bottle, and 56.4% more than the 2007 vintage at 240 Euros a bottle.  


5. Price between Lafite Rothschild 2009 and 2010 vintages

Surfing on the wave of the 2008 vintage at 695 Euros, and having slightly lowered the price of the 2009 to 550 Euros (a 26.4% decrease), following their "illogical logic", they increased the price of the 2010 vintage to 600 Euros per bottle, a slight increase of 8.3% compared to 2009, but still, was it really justified?

The 2009 Lafite is known for its richness, fleshiness, and immediate appeal, while the 2010 is more classic, structured, and masculine, with notable freshness and excellent aging potential. Some experts say the 2010 is a more traditional and potentially longer-lasting wine, whereas the 2009 offers more immediate, hedonistic pleasure. But ultimately, neither vintage is definitively "better" than the other; it depends on personal preference. 

So, is the increase due to the scores? No, that's not even the case, as overall, 2009 received similar to better scores from the critics and the press. JS 100, RP 99, WS 98, and Decanter 19 for the 2009 vintage, compared to JS 100, RP 98, NM 99+, and Falstaff 97 for the 2010 vintage. 




LeDomduVin - Theory of the Decades for Bordeaux Vintages - Chart from 1900 - 2024



6. The cursed vintage and the price's downfall

As I have mentioned many times in numerous posts on this blog (since it's a recurring subject!), every decade Bordeaux claims to have produced yet another "vintage of the century." However, the problem is that this happens 2 or 3 times each decade!!!

However, the flip side is that Bordeaux also has cursed vintages that, according to my "Theory of the Decades for Bordeaux Vintages," recur every decade (see the chart in the picture above). If interested, you can read about it here

To resume it, the theory is based on the fact that if you take the region of Bordeaux as a whole, all appellations combined (because, of course, if you take each appellation and area respectively, case by case, the theory does not work), and look at the quality of the vintages in each decade since the 1940s (see chart above), you can clearly see that there is some sort of a recuring pattern. 

Almost as if each decade perfectly mirrors the one before, like a recurring cycle resetting every 10 years. This suggests we could predict the quality of the next vintage. Don't believe me? Just look at the chart again. Do you see what I mean? When I created that chart, it was too early to tell how the 2025 vintages would turn out. Yet, just a few months after I made the chart, the 2025 harvest confirmed the vintage's excellent quality, further supporting the theory.      

The vintages ending in 0, 5, and 9 are usually the best, followed by those ending in 6 and 8, which are typically great to very good. On the other end, the vintages ending in 2 and 3 can occasionally be very good, but are mostly good to fair. In contrast, those ending in 1, 4, and 7 are usually fair to mediocre (typically green, tannic, austere, and tight, with poor fruit, more "traditional," as they say in Bordeaux). 

My theory terribly annoys the Bordelais every time I mention it. However, the chart is clear: Bordeaux produces about 2-3 great vintages, 2-3 good ones, and 4 to 5 fair to mediocre vintages per decade. So roughly 50/50.  And that's precisely what happened in the 2010s. 

Following the highly profitable run of the three great-to-excellent vintages, 2008, 2009, and 2010, came the unfortunate vintages 2011, 12, 13, and 14. Due to the poor quality of these vintages, Bordeaux had no choice but to significantly lower their prices once again.      

2011 came out at 420 euros, a 42.9% decrease compared to the 2010 vintage, then 2012 at 335 Euros, and 2013 & 2014 at 288 Euros, prices similar to those ten years earlier.   

Aside from the poor quality of these vintages, one reason for this significant price drop was that the soaring prices of 2008, 2009, and 2010 had become so inflated that they no longer made sense. Prices had to fall, and the Bordelais had to come to terms with the fact that, after this series of highly profitable vintages, they needed to readjust.     

The other primary reason for this significant price drop was, as mentioned earlier, the arrival of President Xi Jinping and the full implementation of his anti-corruption campaign in 2013.  

Before his arrival, in 2013, when Europeans and Americans were not so keen on buying much of the poor vintages, the Bordelais still had the option to sell (dump, should I say) their wines to the Chinese (and Asia in general). 

And that's what happened. Despite the poor quality of these vintages, the Chinese bought tons of Bordeaux En Primeur 2011, 2012, and 2013, probably also because of the low prices, which were more than 40% lower than those of the previous vintages. They were surely convinced that the value would increase over time, making them still good "pot de vin" for the businesses. 

However, the Chinese anti-corruption campaign greatly affected Bordeaux wine, leading to a sharp drop in exports to China by reducing extravagant official spending on high-end gifts and banquets. This caused demand for luxury wines to decrease, prices to fall, and Bordeaux producers to shift their focus to the middle-range market. The campaign also revealed the misuse of government funds used for investing in French vineyards, which resulted in the confiscation of some Chinese-owned chateaux.   

As a result, between 2013 and 2014, Bordeaux wine exports to mainland China fell sharply, with one period seeing a 26% drop in value and a 25% drop in volume. Due to lower demand, prices for high-end Bordeaux wines slid, and the market for premium wines cooled significantly. The downturn prompted Bordeaux producers to adjust their prices and strategy, focusing more on the middle-market segment to appeal to a broader consumer base and marketing the wines as "affordable luxury". The campaign also affected Chinese investment in Bordeaux, with some vineyards being sold back to French investors after their Chinese owners were convicted of corruption. 

Another reason for the price drop was counterfeiting. The issue of fake Bordeaux wines circulating in the Chinese market, exacerbated by the surge in prices following the 2008 vintage, also dampened consumer confidence and contributed to lower sales.

The last reason, but not the least, was that the Chinese economy's slowdown in the 2010s also played a role, leading consumers and officials alike to tighten their spending. 

These vintages from 2011, 2012, 2013, and even 2014 were considered cursed, as no one wanted them anymore, and countless unsold pallets filled the warehouses of most Chinese importers and distributors alike, with only minimal sales in the following years. A situation that exacerbated the growing phenomenon of "Bordeaux bashing" in China and around the world.   


7. Price between Lafite Rothschild 2014 and 2015 vintages

And despite everything, the 2015 vintage arrived, and (as expected according to my theory 😉) it was a great one. After four unsuccessful vintages and significant price drops, Bordeaux needed cash flow and had no choice but to raise the price of the 2015 to recover the lost profits and sales from recent years. 

The release price for the 2015 vintage was 420 Euros, a 31.4% increase from the 2014 vintage (288 Euros).  

There they go again: how do you explain to your clients who paid around 300 euros or less for the past 3-4 vintages that they will suddenly have to pay 120 euros more per bottle? 


8. Price between Lafite Rothschild 2015, 2016, and 2017 vintages

The 2015 vintage at 420 Euros set a new standard. Many experts believed the 2016 vintage was better than the 2015, describing it as more powerful, more balanced, and having greater aging potential. As a result, Lafite priced it at 455 Euros, reflecting a reasonable and understandable increase of 7.7%.  

Then the 2017 vintage arrived, and despite being challenging due to spring frosts, Lafite still produced a decent wine praised for its elegance, balance, and complex aromatic profile. However, it was not as good as the 2015 vintage, which also received much higher scores. Still, the 2017 vintage was priced the same as the 2015, at 420 Euros.  

This was a disappointing mistake because market expectations for the 2017 vintage were much lower than for the 2015 vintage, so the price should have been significantly lower, around 350 Euros instead (in my opinion).   

Yet, that is the core of the "Bordeaux paradox" I mentioned earlier: top-tier Bordeaux wines are not priced based on the wine's intrinsic qualities but on scores and, eventually, the vintage's quality, which is wrong and confusing for both buyers and consumers.  
    
How do you want to explain to your customers that they have to pay the same price for a great vintage as for a lesser one? 


9. Price between Lafite Rothschild 2018, 2019, and 2020 vintages. The trilogy returns! 

As it seems to happen at the end of every decade since the 1980s (see my theory's chart above), the last two vintages of the 2010s and the first vintage of the 2020s were excellent, just like 1988,1989, and 1990; then 1998, 1999, and 2000; then 2008, 2009, and 2010- before them.  (It's a recurring pattern, I'm telling you!).   

Having probably learned from their previous mistakes, they priced the 2018 and 2020 vintages at 470 euros and 475 euros, respectively, just a few % increase over the 2016 vintage, which was, for once, a good strategy.  

Yet, strangely enough, they priced the 2019 vintage at 396 Euros, while 2019 received better scores and press coverage than 2020.  
  • Lafite-Rothschild 2018: JS 100, RP 100 & JA 97
  • Lafite-Rothschild 2019: JS 100, RP 100 & JA 99-100 
  • Lafite-Rothschild 2020: JS 96-98, RP 94 & JA 97

Again, this proves my point about the "Bordeaux Paradox" and its "illogical logic" regarding the incoherent pricing strategy of Top-tier Bordeaux wines.     


10. The terrible pricing strategy of the 2021 vintage. 

And when it comes to the "Bordeaux Paradox" and its "illogical logic" regarding the inconsistent pricing strategy, 2021 is undoubtedly one of the best examples from the past 20 years, along with 2017 and 2019. 

In late 2019 and early 2020, COVID-19 was spreading rapidly worldwide. As China, the US, and Europe's unsold stock from 2011, 2012, 2013, and 2014 finally began to diminish slightly, the trilogy of 2018, 2019, and the upcoming 2020 created a bottleneck. 

The market struggled to keep pace, and Bordeaux sales, along with wine sales in general, were dropping sharply due to various factors such as political and geopolitical issues, global economic and financial problems, inflation, wars, shifts in habits and consumption patterns over generations, increasing health concerns, and major anti-alcohol campaigns including wine, all against the backdrop of the COVID-19 pandemic.  

But for a short while, the pandemic reversed the decline in wine sales. As the world came to a stop, with strict restrictions in many countries, most people were confined to their homes and working remotely to prevent further spread. People spent more time at home and had more time for themselves. This situation led to an increase in alcohol consumption worldwide. 

In 2020 and 2021, most food and wine importers and distributors around the world saw a significant rise in sales during the pandemic, mainly because of a major shift toward at-home consumption and the growth of e-commerce and delivery services after the closure of on-premise venues like restaurants and bars, as well as some off-premise locations.  

I'm not sure if the rise in sales in 2020 and 2021 influenced the pricing strategy for the 2021 vintage—perhaps the chateaux thought they might risk it, believing the trend could continue into 2022. However, in my opinion, Lafite (and many other Bordeaux chateaux) made a big mistake by releasing their 2021 vintage at almost the same price as their 2020 vintage—€475 for 2020 and €470 for 2021—matching their 2018 price and exceeding their 2019 price, even though 2021 was not as good a vintage as 2018, 2019, or 2020. 

Once again, Lafite and most top-tier chateaux in Bordeaux set their prices based on market trends and the release price of their previous vintage, rather than the wine's intrinsic quality. Even the scores for Lafite 2021 are lower than those for 2018, 2019, and 2020, and therefore don't even justify such a high price. Moreover, market expectations were leaning toward low prices for this particular vintage following a trilogy of highly profitable vintages (again).   

I've mentioned it before, but I'll say it again: "Bordeaux never learns from its mistakes!" It has been riding a very profitable wave for nearly 20 years (since the mid-2000s), raising its prices and probably believing its status and reputation will be enough to sustain it for many more years. However, starting in 2020, a combination of factors—such as the pandemic, "Bordeaux bashing," overproduction, rising prices, inflation, tariffs, growing health concerns, and changing consumption habits among younger generations—gradually brought this prosperous era to an end.    


11. Then came the price of the 2022 vintage during the En Primeur in 2023

In this uncertain world climate and amid declining sales of recent vintages, despite the furtive surge in sales in 2020 and 2021 due to the pandemic, it would have been wise to be conservative with the price of the 2022 vintage. Don't you think? Well, obviously, that is not what Bordeaux had in mind. 

Maybe they aimed to capitalize on the vintage's quality and the high ratings the wines received, which makes sense since 2022 is an excellent vintage in Bordeaux, especially compared to 2021. However, instead of keeping the release price below or around 500 Euros, which was the new benchmark based on the 2018, 2020, and, unjustifiably, the 2021 vintage, Lafite raised the price to 580 euros for the 2022 vintage!!! 

110 euros more than 2018 and 2020! How? Why? How to justify such an increase? 

In 2023, the French government, in partnership with the "Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux," or CIVB, the Bordeaux wine bureau, launched a campaign for Bordeaux to actively uproot thousands of acres of vines, known as "grubbing up," through a government-funded initiative to address massive overproduction, declining sales, and market imbalance. The program offered growers financial aid (around €6,000 per hectare) to shift to other crops or produce higher quality, smaller-volume wines. This necessary but challenging adjustment to climate change and changing consumer preferences aimed to stabilize the market. 

So, despite the top chateaux, most producers in Bordeaux were battling an overproduction crisis, with several vintages of unsold stocks piling up in their cellars, declining sales, and financial pressure. This led many producers to uproot their vines, sell their unsold stocks cheaply to other estates or to distilleries, some had to declare bankruptcy, and some even took their own lives. And surprisingly, despite this sad and chaotic situation, most top-tier Bordeaux estates raised their prices for the 2022 vintage... Go figure! 

As we say in French, "It was the last drop of water that made the vase overflow!" or as they say in English, "It was the straw that broke the camel's back!" From that moment on, everything went downhill! 








***********work in, unjustifiably,****** 










And conse, unjustifiably,arket has shifted recently from premium wines to more affordable bottles. Wines costing around HK$100 or less (about 12 Euros) have gained popularity.

Yet, here in Hong Kong, the average cost of a mid-range bottle of wine is about HK$120 (roughly 13.5 Euros), with prices usually between HK$80 and HK$200 (approximately 9-23 Euros). 

And, yet again, for a good-quality bottle of red table wine, most people are willing to spend between HK$250 and HK$350 (about 28-40 Euros), up to HK$500 or more (around 56 Euros) for special occasions. 

Therefore, I admit these wines are not the cheapest, but they offer very good value for wines under 75 Euros. Especially when compared to the wines I usually serve at private and corporate dinners and events, which typically range from HK$1000 to HK$3000 (about 112-335 Euros). 



*******work in progress*******



Thierry Germain Domaine des Roches Neuves Saumur-Champigny Franc de Pied Loire Valley 2016

Château Cantemerle Haut-Médoc Bordeaux 2010

Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Saint-Joseph Rhône Valley 2021



*******work in progress*******



Cheers ! Santé !

Dom

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