2010 La Soraia Gavi di Gavi DOCG Piedmont Italy

La Soraia Gavi di Gavi Piedmont Italy

La Soraia is located in Bosio, a little commune about 5.6 kilometers south of Gavi, one of the numerous appellations or DOC of the Piedmont region surrounding the eponymous village, northwestern part of Italy.

La Soraia is one of the oldest producers of Gavi di Gavi Docg from estate-grown Cortese grapes (it is enrolled as bottler n.4 in the district’s land archives!). The estate dates back to the first half of the XX century and the property vineyards have been run by the Natalino family ever since.

The Soraia vineyard is located at 550 mt asl, planted on a high-altitude site long renowned for its calcareous white soil and steep south-east exposure. The combination of good exposure, high altitude and limestone soil make for a very nervy, sharp and flinty-stony Gavi di Gavi DOCG, bearing resemblance with a fine village Sancerre or Muscadet.

Nowadays, Guido Natalino keeps growing his 30 year old Cortese grapes in accordance to a few simple principles of non- intrusive, low-impact viticulture (zero pesticides, zero systemic treatments, no use of chemical herbicides). Cortese grapes are hand-picked around the end of September / beginning of October. The vine density is up to 5.000 plants per hectare, and the average grape yield x Ha. is down to 6 tons. Malolactic fermentation is let occur or intentionally prevented depending on the quality of the crop and the seasonal weather conditions.

The cellar protocol is simple: Guido makes Gavi, Dolcetto Ovada and Barbera on his own, trusting his own palate and going for a traditional white wine fermentation in stainless steel vats at controlled-temperature (plus a short stay on the lees in stainless steel vats, prior to bottling).

In addition to his prized Gavi Docg and Gavi di Gavi Docg, Guido makes two traditional reds worth your attention: an elegant, warming and savory Barbera d'Asti aged in old French oak tonneaux, and a super fruity, crunchy and delicious Dolcetto di Ovada Doc (Ovada being the true ancient cradle and homeland of the Dolcetto variety, which later spread through the rest of Piedmont; here the soil is pure white chalk, which results in a more refined, lighter-color yet more complex style of Dolcetto, reminiscent of a Cru Beaujolais).

2010 La Soraia Gavi di Gavi Piedmont Italy
Suggested retail price $14-$17
Imported / distributed by Moonlight Wine Co. in NYC

Made from 100% Cortese grapes grown with organic practices in limestone-rich Piedmontese soil near Gavi, the 2010 La Soraia Gaivi di Gavi displays delicate, light, fresh and zesty, lemony aromas with fresh almond touch combined with floral, sappy and flinty hints. Coating, juicy and crisp, the palate is also light, fresh and fragrant, loaded with minerality and zesty lemon, yellow fruit flavors. The finish is extremely mineral and integrated .It definitely calls for another glass. Versatile, elegant, food friendly and summery, it will pair well with fish, cold pasta salads, grilled poultry, Mediterranean dishes and feta, goat or mozzarella cheeses.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info about the winery courtesy of the importer website at http://www.moonlightwineco.com/la-soraia/ and the man behind Moonlight Wine, Tony Gibson.

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

2009 Vigneti Massa Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi DOC White Piedmont Italy (Organic - Sustainable)

Last week, my rep. from Metropolis Wines came with a few organic, natural wines, including 3 that I really loved and bought on site. One was from the Loire, the other from Buzet and the last one was a white from Piedmont. Each of them will have their post, but let’s start with the white from Piedmont, which was intriguing yet really, really good.

2009 Vigneti Massa Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi DOC White Piedmont Italy (Organic - Sustainable)

At first, I didn’t pay so much attention to the label; I was just trying the wine based on the fact that it was from Piedmont, which happens to be my favorite Italian wine region.

Piedmont is surrounded to the north by the Alps, and overlooked by 2 mounts: Monviso (Mont Vis), where the Po rises, and Monte Rosa. The region borders France to the west, Valley d’Aosta to the northwest, Switzerland to the north and the Italian regions of Lombardy to the east, Liguria to the south, and a very small fragment with Emilia Romagna to the southeast. The geography of Piedmont is nearly half mountainous, along with extensive areas of hills and plains. Most produced wines, whether red or white or rose, are usually earthy and Terroir driven, expressive, traditional and complex with a good dose of minerality, due the prominent mountainous rocky soil.

So far, nothing abnormal or unusual, yet I had to look more closely at the label. Something intriguing caught my eyes: Derthona Timorasso? What was that? Never heard or taste it before.

"Derthona"? Despite the fact that it is the name of this wine and the regional dialect name for “Tortona”, “Derthona” is also the name of the local football club of Tortona, a little town of Piedmont nearby to where the wine also come from, which gave the eponymous name of “Colli Tortonesi” to the hilly region surrounding it and also the DOC name (Denominazione di Origine Controllata), in the province of Alessandria, about 30 kilometers north of Gavi and 60 kilometers east of Asti.

"Timorasso"? You probably rarely heard of it because it is not wildly planted, but “Timorasso” is a local, indigenous white grape variety from Piedmont, producing fresh, crisp, complex and rich, Terroir oriented whites of great minerality and acidity (and sometimes of high alcohol content). Usually fatter than Arneis and Cortese, the resulting whites (made from Timorasso) have a somewhat similar profile, in term of texture and way of coating the palate, to Falanghina or Greco, both grapes usually expressing the complexity of the volcanic soil of Campania. Do not worry if you never heard of Timorasso, because, while France counts about 50 different grape varieties, it is said that Italy counts about 2,000, including about 30 in Piedmont alone. Many being indigenous and unheard of outside the boot!

Now that I had a better picture of the wine, the grape and where it came from, something else intrigued me. Between the word “Derthona” and “Timorasso” lay the words: “un territorio, un vino, in vitigno”, which literally translate by: “one Terroir, one Wine, one Vine” (or in French: “un territoire (ou Terroir), un vin, une vigne”). It could have been the ego of the producer to show certain uniqueness, but after investigating and asked a few question to my rep., I realized that it was more to his pride that these words were referring to. Let me explain.

"Timorasso" was an endangered specie of a grape variety, that would have vanished from the Colli Tortonesi, if it wasn’t for the tenacity and determination of Walter Massa, the owner of Vigneti Massa, who clearly believed in the tremendous potential of this grape variety, which about a decade ago was on the edge of extinction, with only a few hectares remaining. Yet, alone and against all odds, he continued to produce it, until it was once rediscovered a few years ago and started to have a new following on the export market (UK and USA predominantly).

That is why he is so proud to mention on his label “one Terroir, one Wine, one Vine”, because without him and his remaining vineyard, you will not even be able to taste this delightful white from this amazing grape variety. This is his baby, and one can literally say that he is the father of the renaissance of this Sommelier and gourmet sensation, which have, over the last few years, received many accolades and acclaims from connoisseurs, amateurs and critics around the world.

Vigneti Massa is located in the abandoned hill top town of Monleale Alto, perched at around 200-300 meters, in the Colli Tortonesi, about 10 kilometers east of Tortona. Walter Massa, producer and winemaker extraordinaire, inherited the family knowledge and skills, which have been inculcate from one generation to the next since 1879. Despite his unique white made from Timorasso, Walter also craft some reds with the local grapes: Croatina, Barbera, Freisa and Nebbiolo. Four of his wines are available in the US market.

I invite you to go to the importer website for more info at http://www.portovinoitaliano.com/wineshop/producers/vigneti-massa




2009 Vigneti Massa Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi DOC White Piedmont Italy (Organic - Sustainable)
Suggested retail price $24-$27
Imported by Porto Vino Italian wines / distributed by Metropolis Wines in NYC

Made from 100% Timorasso grapes grown organically on clay and calcareous soil, from predominately two parcels on gentle hill slope: “Costa del Vento”, 1,5 hectares, western exposure, clay and calcareous soil, and “Costolio”, 0.5 hectares, southern exposure, calcareous soil. Vinified with native yeasts. Maceration press 48-60 hours; fermentation 18-22 °C; batonnage; minimum 6 months bottle aging before released on market. Light filtration.

2009 Vigneti Massa Derthona Timorasso shows a pale, yellow color. The nose is fresh and inviting with expressive aromas of blossom, peach skin and yellow fruit, mingled with herbal, floral touches and mineral nuances. The palate is also fresh, clean, and fat without being heavy, rich, complex, yet well balanced and lush, with great acidity. Inciting flavors of yellow apple, pear and citrus expand nicely toward the very long, mineral, spicy, peppery finish. It even shows good ageing potential. I will not speculate for too long, but it will definitely hold on tight for the next 2-3 years, may be 5. I love it.

Highly recommended. Serve it chilled but not cold on hearty dishes based with fish, white meat, game and poultry.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

2009 Castello di Neive Azienda Agricola Grignolino Piedmonte DOC Italy

I need to admit that we buy so many wines, when buying time season reaches its peak between October and November, that sometimes I forgot about certain wines we bought just a few weeks ago.

It was the case for the following wine. We bought it earlier during the season but I totally forgot about it and only rediscover it about a week ago, when we decided to open a bottle in the store for our customers but also to refresh our memories. What a blast! This wine is great!

Therefore, as always in my humble quest to make you discover lesser known regions, wineries, producers and wines from around the world, I decided to get a closer look behind the label and share my experience of this little gem.

Castello di Neive Azienda Agricola Piedmonte Italy

Castello di Neive, meaning “Castle of Neive”, is a magnificent 18th century castle located at the heart of the eponymous village, about 4.3 kilometers in the gently rolling hills west of Barbaresco.

This hilly region represents the northwestern part of Langhe, bordering the southern part of Roero. The village of Neive is part of Barbaresco DOCG, which is covering a radius of about 12-15 kilometers northwest and west of the town of Alba. The communes of Barbaresco, Neive and Treiso form the three angles of the renowned triangle of lands, rolling hills and vineyards, which encompass Barbaresco DOCG.

Owned by the Stupino brothers and sisters, Castello di Neive remains one of the most traditional producers of Barbaresco and Piedmontese in general, producing earthy, complex and characteristic wines with very approachable profile, reflecting the commitment, ambition and passion of the family in all of their wines, one generation after another.

Anna, Giulio, Italo and Piera Stupino were all born in Neive, and so were their parents, grandparents and great-grandparents. The history of the winery began when their father, Giacomo, started to capitalize on both his experience as a surveyor and on his knowledge of the area, and to purchase, whenever possible, vineyards and land in extremely favorable locations.

Nowadays, the150 acres (about 60 hectares) of Castello di Neive estate, which also include vineyards in Santo Stefano and Marcorino, are scattered all around the town of Neive, in the Langhe area of the Piedmont region. Sixty-two acres (25 hectares) of the property are devoted to grape growing and all the production, which amounts to an average of 12.000 cases a year, is obtained from Castello di Neive’s own vineyards.

Back in the 60s, in the small cellars of their home, Giacomo and his family began the first production of wine for domestic consumption and to sell in bulk. Giacomo slowly acquired a number of vineyards like Messoirano, Montebertotto, Basarin, Valtorta and Cortini. The estate grew and with it also the production and the ambitions of the family.

In 1964, they purchased the Castle of Neive with its spacious cellars, as well as more farmsteads in Santo Stephano and Marcorino, plus more land from the castle’s previous owner, Count Guido Riccardi Candiani.

The history of the Castle bring us back to the beginning of the 18th century, when the Count of Castelborgo, Manfredo Bongioanni, decided to build the new castle over foundations dating back to the 16th-17th century. The imposing structure is situated in what, in medieval times, had been Neive’s south-western border; also a defensive wall completed with sentry boxes still links the castle and its gardens to the Southern Gate of the town.

However, (back to the family history), purchasing the Castle in the mid-60s was a turning point, which urged the Stupino family to renovate the castle’s cellars, to reorganize the vineyards neglected by the previous owners and to produce wine according to modern methods. When Giacomo died, in 1970, Giulio and Italo oversaw the transition from tenant farming to direct management of the land, with the precious help of Talin Brunettini, a skillful cellar man with knowledge in agronomic techniques. It is at this time that Castello di Neive began to bottle its wines and to introduce them to the rest of Italy and abroad.

In 1978, came another rewarding step: thanks to the collaboration between Italo and some experts from the University of Turin – professors Italo Eynard and Annibale Gandini – Castello di Neive started a clonal selection programme of Arneis, a white grape long forgotten and abandoned because of its scarce productivity and lack of knowledge in white wine vinification. Arneis wine owes its rediscovery to this joint effort by the company and the University. In the past few years, Italo has devoted himself fully to the direct management of the company, under the name “Castello di Neive Azienda Agricola”: a devotion which seems to follow a ‘premonition’ contained in an old photograph depicting Mentor, Italo’s grandfather, presenting a grapevine to his young nephew.

The castle’s cellars – where wine is still produced and bottled – were purposefully designed to serve the same function they do nowadays. They have very high ceilings to allow the use of large oak vats, usually Slavonian oak. In these cellars, during the 19th century, the French oenologist and wine trader Oudart was operating as a consultant of the Count of Castelborgo. He was the first one in the area to obtain a dry, stable and therefore easily exportable wine from Nebbiolo grapes: he called it ‘Neive’ and in 1857 this wine won a gold medal in London. About thirty years later, Castello di Neive’s first Barbaresco was produced using the same techniques employed by Oudart.

Nowadays, Italo Stupino is taking care of the winemaking, helped by the university of Turin and his daughter Carolina. Due to his training as an engineer and to his previous activity in other fields too, Italo developed a scientific approach to the vineyard and to the countryside. Preserving tradition is one thing, but one can never take anything for granted and always must strive for better results. Questioning, researching, trying and learning: since the 1970’s the collaboration with the University of Turin has allowed Italo to enter the world of wine with a frame of mind which, still nowadays, enables him to face the challenges of a continuously evolving market. Tradition, research and creativity: this is the philosophy of a company which, without overlooking the heritage of centuries of winemaking, embraces new technologies, is active in the field of research – both in the vineyard and in the cellars – and is ready to take risks and to experiment.

Castello di Neive produces mainly red wines from principally 9 different characteristic vineyards and crafts about 15-17 different wines, depending on the year, with classic Piedmont labels such as Arneis, Barbera d’Alba, Dolcetto d’Alba, Langhe, Moscato d’asti Vino Spumante, Passito, a Pinot Nero and of course Barbaresco from their Santo Stefano vineyard. But before I forgot, they also produce this great little wine that triggered the post of today: “Piedmonte Grignolino”.

I know what you’re thinking: what is Grignolino? Well like you, I wasn’t necessary very acquainted with this grape variety until today. I may have read about it in my numerous wine books. However, it is quite strange that I never drank a wine made from it before because, as you may know by now, I love earthy, crispy wines with bright features, enhancing acidity and fresh fruit with a lot of minerality and good tannic structure, I drink a lot of Piedmont wines.

They happen to be amongst some of my favorite red wines with Bordeaux (where I come from), but also and more especially Loire valley, Burgundy, Southwestern France, Jura, Savoie, a lot of Languedoc earthier style, Rioja, Priorat, Monsant, Terra Alta, Ribera del Duero, Tuscany, Campania and quite a few more (I love wines, what can I do about it…).

Never mind, so what is Grignolino? Grignolino is a red Italian wine grape variety commonly grown in the Piedmont region. It produces light colored red wines and rosés with very fruity aromas, strong acidity and tannins. The name Grignolino derives from the word “grignole” which means "many pips" in the local Piedmontese dialect of the Asti region. The abundance of pips, or seeds, contributes to the obvious, slightly green bitter tannins associated with the wine. Modern winemakers try to avoid the excess tannins with gentle and slow pressings, to avoid crushing the pips, which also release the green bitterness from the seeds. Grignolino wines are more commonly produces in two “Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOCs): Asti and Monferrato Casale, yet the wine of today is just a generic Piedmont Grignolino DOC.




2009 Castello di Neive Azienda Agricola Grignolino Piedmonte DOC Italy
Suggested retail price $11-$14
Imported/Distributed by …

This Piedmonte DOC Grignolino, produced in the area of Neive, Langhe (Piedmont, Italy) was crafted from carefully hand-harvested grapes from the Messoirano Vineyard, in the Serracapelli sub-region, benefiting from East – Southeast exposure. The grapes come from 0.19 hectare of vines averaging 25 years old, which are planted on calcareous-marl soil. Believe it or not but only 1,500 bottles of this delicious wine were produced, so considerate yourself lucky to get some (which makes me think that I need to reorder some ASAP... hope I'm not too late!)

Hand-harvest usually occurs in mid-September. Grapes are carefully selected and sorted, than carried in small plastic boxes to avoid crushing under pressure. The vinification is traditional with automatic pump over. Fermentation last about 8-10 days. Maceration usually occurs for 5 days in large oak barrels. Followed by a 3 months resting period in stainless steel tanks. Once bottled, this young, fresh, aromatic wine is kept in the Castle's cellar for an additional 3 months before release.

2009 Castello di Neive Azienda Agricola Piedmonte DOC surely benefited of the warm ripening season of this particular vintage and, although rather light yet fairly ripe, the resulting wine is fresh, really inviting and charming. It is already pretty startling by its color, presenting a very light rosé-esque, cherry color. The nose shows a lot of bright red cherry aromas with earthy and mineral hints. The delightful palate is super light bodied wine with fresh tart red cherry and raspberry flavors intermingled with enhancing acidity and a mouthful of minerality. This bold acidity and cloak of ultra smooth, integrated tannins make it quite unique and vibrant.

If you’ve never tried a Grignolino wine, this one is a fine example of what this fresh, light and tart, rather undiscovered (in the US market) red grape has to offer. Very versatile and ultra approachable and immediately commanding for another glass, it will pair well with pretty much anything from charcuterie, pizzas and red-sauce pastas, to light appetizers or just as an aperitif after a long day at work or else where. Highly recommended for any occasion. Try it! You’ll tell me, but I think this was a great discovery, somewhat in between a Beaujolais and a very light Burgundy, yet with the Piedmontese traditional touch.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from the winery website at www.castellodineive.it

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines (and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

2009 Damilano Langhe Arneis Piedmont Italy

Damilano has always been producing great Piedmont high quality wines at very affordable prices. I’ve sold their wines for the past 8 years and never been disappointed. Their Barolos are their benchmarks, especially their entry level Barolo that is always sought after equally by amateurs and connoisseurs. An excellent Barolo for less than $25-$30 is a rare thing these days.

However, even if a bit late in the season, I would like to introduce you to their Arneis that I’ve been enjoying all summer, but which is still such a great juicy and easy going white that it deserves a bit of attention; even with the cooling temperatures, yet it has been a beautiful Indian summer so far, in New York.

This winery has ancient traditions. Its origins go back at the end of 1800, when Giuseppe Borgogno, great-grandfather of the actual owners, begun to grow and vinify vines. Now, thanks to the work of the young members of the family, Damilano has been enjoying a deserved success over the last 10 years. They produce the classical Langhe wines, and above all, very approachable complex Barolos (including 7 Barolos from various vineyards, a Barbera d’Asti, a Nebbiolo d’alba and their unique Arnies white).

The vineyard of “Cannubio” (or Cannubi) was already famous before the coming of the wine Barolo. The prestige of Cannubi never knew misfortune, in fact it always improved the name of the firms that bought its grapes or owned a small part of these vineyards. The 10 Piedmontese giornate (less than 4 hectares) place under the road that goes to the pasture and exposed to the east, are named “Liste”. All the witnesses gathered agree saying that “the soil is good” while higher and toward the woods the soil tends to be particularly cold and damp. The Damilano family is making a smart calculated turn for their “cantina” from forty-year-old industrial base to aritsanal frontier. Gifted in two Barolo sites, the fifty-year-old “Cannubi” vines are delivering superb, inviting results, while the “Liste” vineyard, a four-hectare eastern exposure, produces a mysterious strength for the Barolo district. A classic player to keep an eye on.



2009 Damilano Langhe Arneis Piedmont Italy
Suggested retail price $14.99
Imported / Distributed by VIAS Imports in NYC

Damilano Langhe Arneis is a gentle Piemontese white wine made from 100% Arneis grapes, by Damilano renowned oenologist Beppe Caviola. The grapes come from vineyards located near the villages of Canale (in Roero region) and Diano d’Alba (in the Langhe region), with Southeast exposure with an average altitude of 900 feet. The vines are planted on sandy, clayey-calcareous soils. The grapes underwent skin maceration for 7 days, followed by the alcoholic fermentation at controlled temperature in stainless steel tanks. Bottling occurred shortly after to keep maximum freshness.

The 2009 Damilano Langhe Arneis shows a pale straw yellow with slight greenish reflects. The nose is fresh, clean, refine and fruity with aromas of citrus and stone white fruit intermingled with blossom and mineral hints. The palate is dry and refreshing, quite delicate and elegant with yellow and white fruit flavors combined with slight fresh almonds notes. An inviting, versatile and friendly white wine that is suitable for any occasion with appetizers, fish courses and white meats.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from the importer website at www.viaswine.com

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines (and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide

Elvio Tintero “Grangia” Vino Bianco Secco Piedmont Italy

When I do not know something about a wine or a grape or a region, I often first refer to the two most essential books that, in my opinion, everybody (wine lover or not) should treasure in his (or her) personal bibliotheca: “The World Atlas of Wine” and more especially, the “Oxford Companion to Wine”.

I’ve personally been using these two books for the last 18 years(+). At the beginning of my career, while turning each page with the utmost interest and finally understanding why my grandfather loved wine and winemaking so much, these two books proved to be extremely helpful in many ways and somewhat determined my path as a future wine buyer. I never put them down since.

I know that there are plenty of other great books about wines, but with those two, you will not need much more to become extremely knowledgeable about wine and everything that surrounds it (like geography, topography, types of soil, climates and microclimates, grapes, vine growing, winemaking, and much more).

I hear you say: “no need for such books now with the internet!” Well, I’ll need to disagree. Internet is surely a great source of information, with an infinite growing number of pages, websites, articles, posts and notes about wine and its world.

Yet, and I hope that I’m right when I say that (and even if I have tremendous respect for the forests, the nature and the environment overall), a book will always remain a better source for a specific amount of information at a given time and will always be by your side if you need it. It is a bit old school, I admit, but it works, any time, any day.

True, you can not browse as quickly many pages at once and it will never be updated as fast as an internet site… yet it may, in some ways, be more accurate, explicit, straight to the point and factual….

However, what will you do if your computer crashes unexpectedly? Or what if a sudden electricity blackout strikes your area? You will have to go back to your good old books, that’s what you will do. Remember to never trash the irreplaceable classics (that goes for everything), they will always be non-negligible references no matter what.

“The World Atlas of Wine” was first written and put together by Hughes Johnson about 30 years ago, and still remain one of the best books about most wine regions of the world, boasting an impressive amount of wine region maps complemented with clear, straightforward explanations. Jancis Robinson joined him and teamed with him some years ago, to create one of the most dependable wine book ever written. Hughes Johnson's wine guides have always been standards of connoisseur's bookshelves, although I remember countless arguments that him and I had regarding certain wines when we talked while he was having lunch at the restaurant. We have slightly different palates, that's all.

Talking about Jancis Robinson (MW), one of the first female Master of Wine, imagine, “The Oxford Companion to Wine” was basically her thesis to obtain her Master… and consequently, she immediately became one of the most recognized wine authorities in the world and still nowadays enjoys a great deal of press coverage and followers with her books and blog, continuing to lead the way as one of the most knowledgeable wine writers.

I had the pleasure to meet them both in many occasions when I was working as Wine Buyer in London: Jancis Robinson in quite a few tastings in London but also in Bordeaux for the “Primeurs” and even in New York. And Hughes Johnson was a regular customer to the restaurant where I was working as a Chef Sommelier, called “CHE” located in the economist on St. James Street in London. Without knowing it, both were very inspirational.

However, let get back to our wine of the day which is bringing us back to one of my favorite Italian wine region: Piedmont.

If I started this post talking about how to find references to things related with wine in the books of Hughes Johnson and Jancis Robinson, it is because I recently came across a grape variety that I never heard of before and needed an explanation. I now more and more browse out the internet for answers rather than books (I admit it, it is easier and faster, although not always accurate and demand more attention and research), but I felt the need to mention these two books because they were the precursors of nearly everything that you can find on the internet regarding wine maps and wine knowledge, before the commercialization of the international network (in short "internet") in the mid 1990s.

Ever heard of “Favorita” grape variety? Me neither, until I tasted this little Piedmont’s white wines imported by Kermit Lynch. So I looked into my Jancis Robinson’s “Oxford Comapnion to Wine” and on her website and found out that “Favorita” is another name for Vermentino in Piedmont and that it ages better than Arneis. Well, it is only part of it.

With a bit more research, one can come to the conclusion that “Favorita” is a white Italian grape variety primarily grown in Piedmont. The results of recent studies of its DNA indicate that it is somewhat linked to Pigato and Vermentino, two other Italian white grape varieties. Commonly used as a table grape in Piedmont due to its larger berry size, it is apparently on the decline as Arneis and Chardonnay have increased in popularity over the last 10-15 years.

“Favorita” is not widely planted and only a few producers still use it as part of the blend in some of their whites. One of these producers is Elvio Tintero.



(overlooking view of the vineyards and the hilltop village of Mango, Piedmont, from Azienda Agricola Elvio Tintero and their Bed & Breakfast estate called "La Grangia", courtesy of Elvio Tintero at www.tintero.it)

Azienda Agricola Elvio Tintero Piedmont Italy

Azienda Agricola Elvio Tintero is located on steep but spectacular hills of Mango, a small village of ancient historical and cultural traditions situated between the Langhe and Monferrato areas (in the province of Cuneo in an area called “Località Gramella”); about 12 kilometers southeast of Barbaresco and about 18 kilometers east of Alba (and about 60 kilometers southeast of Torino), nestled at about 450-500 meters above sea level in the hilly region south of the Tanaro river.

On these hills, the Tintero family has been taking great care of their lands and tending their vines for 3 generations. Nowadays run by Elvio, Mark, Cynthia and Adriana, the winery represents a symbol of tradition and prestige.

In the 80s, attracted by the potential of the omnipresent Muscat grape (called Moscato in Italian) in the area and from the optimal position of the vineyards (south, the south-west) the Tintero family decided to expand their experience and production. At the same time the Controlled Denomination of origin (D.O.C. or Denominazione di Origine Controllata) was reaping its first fruits in aiding the development and protection of this product.

It is only about 10 years later, around 1993, that the slightly effervescent and slightly sweet Moscato white wines attained high quality and started to have a certain recognition, thanks to the D.O.C.

Although a company linked to the traditions, Tintero winery follows with great perseverance and commitment to the evolution of the market and its demands. Their consistent research is devoted to product quality not only as an element related to sensory aspects but also in respect of the balance of nature linked to it.

In fact, Tintero owners are constantly attentive to the evolution of the different ecosystems using more appropriate and natural agronomic practices, less "revolutionary" but more adapted and in respect with environment. The winery and vineyards management are monitored by qualified personnel allowing compatible methods to be used, with daily concerns for the environmental protection and the maintenance of the countryside.

The winery produces about 8 wines: 4 whites (Langhe DOC Arneis, Moscato d’Asti DOCG, Langhe DOC Favorita and Grangia) and 4 reds (Barbaresco DOCG, Dolceto d’Alba, Langhe DOC Freisa and Barbera d’Alba).

“La Grangia” is the name of a part of the estate, which is also used to welcome agro-tourists. The name “Grangia” goes back to Cistercense architecture and defines an enclosed place near the convent in which the harvest was stored. Recently refurbished as a Bed & Breakfast, "La Grangia" is located in the midst of lush vineyards no more than a five-minute walk from the village of Mango (see the above picture, beautiful). Overlooking the vineyards and the gentle surroundings hills, “La Grangia” is enveloped by a splendid soft hillside landscape that makes the environment relaxing and unique.

“Grangia” also gave its name to a surprising dry white wine that I really enjoyed and discovered a little while ago during a Kermit lynch tasting at the store.



Elvio Tintero “Grangia” Vino Bianco Secco Piedmont Italy
Suggested retail price $9-$12
Imported by Kermit Lynch

Although most of the producers of the area are mostly concentrating on producing slightly sweet Moscato d’Asti, Tintero winery, which possesses vineyards of the rather unusual Favorita grapes, decided to produce a dry version of it named “Grangia”.

Made with roughly 90% Favorita and 10% Moscato (to add aromas) from carefully selected and hand harvested grapes from their organically managed vineyards, this gentle and summery fizzy white wine is an enjoyable surprise. It could almost be compared to a Vinho Verde from Portugal, with a bit more complexity and length.

Grangia has a very pale greenish color. Clean and clear with tiny bubbles, it seems super light in appearance. The nose offers complex yet discreet aromas of white and yellow fruits like peach, citrus and apricot intermingled with blossom and other floral notes. A touch “perling” on the tongue (as we say in French), the palate is light, elegant and easy, quite friendly, and boasts slightly different and crispier flavors than the nose including green apple, lemon zest and lime peel combined with mineral and enhance by a great acidity. Lingering dry, zesty finish. Overall, it is a pleasantly enjoyable summer wine to enjoy at any time with or without food. Yet , some “Frutti di Mare” will complement it perfectly, especially oysters, shrimps and mussels.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from the winery website at www.tintero.it

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2007 Cascina Adelaide Dolcetto di Diano D’Alba “Vigna Costa Fiore” Piedmont Italy

2007 Cascina Adelaide Dolcetto di Diano D’Alba “Vigna Costa Fiore” Piedmont Italy

For over 100 years, Cascina Adelaide has been making high quality wines defined by their own "Cru" vineyards. In Piedmont, like in many other regions, "Cru" vineyards are recognized on the basis of their unique Terroir characteristics (exposure, altitude, climate and soil characteristics) that are capable of producing the highest quality grapes in the region.

Despite its location just below the Castello di Barolo, Cascina Adelaide was basically unknown outside the local area until Amabile Drocco bought the property in 1999 and modernized it. Investment was made in new equipment, a top agronomist and winemaker were engaged, and a new, ultra modern, state-of-the-art gravity-fed winery building was added on the property. The last ten years slowly witnessed the ascension of Cascina Adelaide to the top tier of the best Barolo producers.

Cascina Adelaide's wines have a unique style. Sergio Molino crafts modern Barolos of great depth with a traditionalist touch. Young, his wines are quite approachable, fruity and full, yet with a bit of time they reveal harmonious and complex mouth-feel with traditional characters, unique to some of the better Barolo producers.

Obviously, the “Cru” vineyards Barolo (Per Elen, Preda and Cannubi) are excellent, more especially the 2001, 2004 and 2007 vintages which were some of the best vintage of the last decade in Piedmont. However, their Langhe(s), Dolcetto and Barbera(s) are delightful too.




2007 Cascina Adelaide Dolcetto di Diano D’Alba "Vigna Costa Fiore" Piedmont
Suggested retail price $21-$24
Distributed by Little Wine Company in NYC

The 2007 vintage was quite excellent in Piedmont overall and produced wines with interesting ageing potential that have a lot of ripeness and tannins. Due to high temperature during the summer and harvest season, the tannins and the alcohol content of certain Piedmont wines may accentuate a touch of bitterness, and due to lower acidity, compared to 2006, they may offer more fruit and richness upfront, but overall less balance, freshness and ageing potential than expected.

However, although quite young, this 2007 Dolcetto is beautifully balanced with chewy tannins, attractive earthiness and length. It was made from grapes of their vineyard located in Diano d’Alba. The 80 years old vines are planted on sandy and white clay soils.After traditional fermentation in stainless steel tanks occurred, the wine left on his lees for a short period of time and remain 4 months in steel vat before bottling, with another month in bottle before release. It didn’t see any oak treatment.

The resulting wine shows a garnet color with slight violet reflects. The nose is quite intense and warm with dark ripe cherry fruit, earth and minerality. The palate is still a bit tight, yet it already offers rich flavors of dark fruit, wild berries and spice. The palate is fairly soft, round and rich with good tannic structure. It may need a little decantation to fully open.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken from the importer website at www.tesoriwines.com

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2004 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Piedmont Italy

2004 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Piedmont Italy

One of the most innovative, consistent and highly acclaimed cooperatives in Piedmont, Produttori del Babaresco produces exquisite, traditional Barbaresco(s) that are among the best examples of the appellation.

This storied cooperative in Piedmont dates back to 1894; forced to close in the 1920s because of fascist economic rules, it was revived in 1958 by the village priest of Barbaresco who recognized that the only way the small properties could survive was by joining their efforts.

Today the cooperative has 56 members and 250 acres of Nebbiolo vineyards in the Barbaresco appellation, which amounts to almost 1/6 of the vineyards of the area. In great vintages, nine single-vineyard Barbarescos are produced from 9 classic premium sites within the Barbaresco village boundaries; including established vineyards like “Pora”, “Moccagatta”, “Ovello” and “Rio Sordo”.

Following the classic and highly praised 2001 vintage, 2004 is also an excellent vintage in Piedmont which produced truly attractive Nebbiolo wines, like the 3 following gems:





2004 Produttori del Barbaresco "Moccagatta"Barbaresco Riserva Piedmont Italy
Suggested retail price $60-$70
Imported/Distributed by VIAS in NYC


Moccagatta is a 9.6 acres (3.88 hectares) single vineyard planted on slope at about 300 meters above sea level, with southeastern exposure and calcareous limestone soils. The first vintage was produced in 1967. The wine is aged for 36 months in large oak barrels and 8 months in the bottle before release. 10,000 bottles produced.

From another classic vintage, the 2004 Moccagatta is quite intense, aromatic and floral, yet delicate and gentle, somewhat feminine, and shares the same finesse of the Rabajà (single vineyard), but a lighter in body. Still quite young, the palate is focused and elegant with red and dark cherry fruit flavors, firm and present yet fairly integrated tannins that will need a bit more time to settle down. It is a keeper and will age nicely for the next 10-15 years easily. Pair it with fresh egg pasta dishes or mushroom risotto with black truffle shavings, but also with grilled red meat, game, venison and cheeses.





2004 Produttori del Barbaresco "Ovello" Barbaresco Riserva Piedmont Italy
Suggested retail price $60-$70
Imported/Distributed by VIAS in NYC

Ovello is a 16.25 acres (6.5 hectares) single vineyard planted on slope at about 290 meters above sea level, with east-southwestern exposure and calcareous-limestone with clay soils. The first vintage was produced in 1970. The wine is aged for 36 months in large oak barrels and 8 months in the bottle before release. 18,000 bottles produced.

The 2004 Ovello is quite rich and full-bodied, yet juicy and fresh at same time, which makes it really approachable now despite its youthful attitude. Here again, like for the Moccagatta, it is still quite young and promising, yet the palate is already focused with bright ripe red cherry fruit flavors, framed by firm and present yet fairly integrated tannins that will also need a bit more time to settle down. Fruit forward with good acidity and a long finish, it is a keeper and will age nicely for the next 10-15 years easily. As with the Moccagatta, you can also pair it with fresh egg pasta dishes or mushroom risotto with black truffle shavings, but also with grilled red meat, game, venison and cheeses.




2004 Produttori del Barbaresco "Rio Sordo" Barbaresco Riserva Piedmont Italy
Suggested retail price $60-$70
Imported/Distributed by VIAS in NYC

Rio Sordo is an 11.27 acres (4.6 hectares) single vineyard planted on slope at about 270 meters above sea level, with southwestern exposure and calcareous-limestone with sandy layers soils. The first vintage was produced in 1978. The wine is aged for 36 months in large oak barrels and 8 months in the bottle before release. 10,000 bottles produced.

Medium to full-bodied, the 2004 Rio Sordo is elegant and complex, with bright juicy fruit, expressive flavors, silky tannins and a long finish too, which makes it really drinkable now despite its youthful attitude. Here again, like for the Moccagatta and the Ovello, it is still quite young and promising, somewhat austere, yet the focused palate is earthy with bright ripe red cherry fruit flavors, framed by firm and present yet fairly integrated tannins that will need a bit more time to settle down. Fruit forward, focused with a long finish, it is a keeper and will age nicely for the next 10-15 years easily. As with the Moccagatta and the Ovello, you can also pair it with fresh egg pasta dishes or mushroom risotto with black truffle shavings, but also with grilled red meat, game, venison and cheeses.


These 3 stunning wines are beautiful examples of what Barbaresco has to offer and the level of quality aimed by this cooperative.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from the winery website at www.produttoridelbarbaresco.com
and the importer website at www.viaswine.com where you will find more info about these wines.

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2007 Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo Piedmont Italy

Produttori del Barbaresco Piedmont Italy

This weekend, I opened my last bottle of Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo 2007 vintage, a great, balanced, harmonious and juicy wine with a refreshing acidity. I’ll suggest that you buy yourself a bottle while available and before the 2008 arrive.

Produttori del Barbaresco wines are now classics amongst the wines that I buy from VIAS nearly every year. We just received cases of three out of their 9 single vineyard Barbaresco(s) in the 2004 vintage that represent some of the benchmarks of the Barbaresco appellation, and we still have some bottles of the 2001 vintage, both vintages are excellent and age worthy in Piedmont.

For Produttori del Barbaresco, it all started in 1894 with Domizio Cavazza, who realized the uniqueness of the Nebbiolo grape growing on the hills of Barbaresco. He gathered a few producers and created one of the first cooperatives to produce Barbaresco, called “Cantine Sociali”. The Cantine was closed in the 20’s for political reasons forcing the small growers to sell their wines in bulk to complement Barolo’s wines and to make Piedmont table wines.

In 1958, recognizing that the only way the small properties could survive was by again joining their efforts, the priest of the village of Barbaresco gathered together nineteen small growers and founded the Produttori del Barbaresco. The first three vintages were made in the church basement, then in the winery built across the square where the cellar of Produttori del Barbaresco is still located.

Reunited once again after being separated during the fascist regime in the 20’s, the small growers continued the work started and inspired by Domizio Cavazza in 1894, producing only Barbaresco wines and enhancing both the reputation of the wines and the village. The proud past of Barbaresco and the dedication of its creators have made Produttori one of the greatest producers of this renowned Piedmont area.

Produttori del Barbaresco, founded in 1958, now has 56 members and 100 hectares (250 acres) of Nebbiolo vineyards in the Barbaresco appellation, which is almost 1/6 of the vineyards of the area. Each family is in full control of its land, growing Nebbiolo grapes with experienced skill and dedication acquired over the last 100 years of winemaking. The winery produces high quality Barbaresco D.O.C.G. wines, from a blend of Nebbiolo grapes harvested in different vineyards, and a simpler Nebbiolo Langhe suited for earlier consumption.

In great vintages, wines are crafted from nine single-vineyard Barbarescos, nine classic premium sites within the Barbaresco village boundaries:

• Asili,
  
• Rabajà,
  
• Pora,
  
• Montestefano,
  
• Ovello,
  
• Pajé,
  
• Montefico,
  
• Moccagatta
  
• Rio Sordo

These are the geographical names of sites where Nebbiolo grapes have always been cultivated. The names of the vineyards, the total number of bottles produced, and the names of the owners of the vineyards are marked on the labels. In a good vintage they are divided between Barbaresco (40 %), single-vineyard Barbarescos (40%) and Nebbiolo Langhe (20%).



2007 Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo Piedmont Italy
Suggested retail price $17.99-$21.99
Imported / Distributed by VIAS imports in NYC

Langhe Nebbiolo is produced every year; it ranges from 10 to 30% of the total production depending on the quality of the vintage (the better the vintage the less Nebbiolo is produced). It is somewhat a second label for Produttori del Barbaresco and it is made with the grapes from young vines or vineyards that produced less intense and concentrated juice. It does have the quality standard to be a Barbaresco, but the winery declassifies it and sells it to maintain the Barbaresco(s) complexity and quality as high as possible.

The result is an extraordinarily balanced, concentrated, juicy and harmonious wine with refreshing acidity that carries the fruit through the finish and adds brightness to the wine. The nose boasts intense wild berries and red cherry aromas with earthy, floral and mineral notes. The youthful palate is fresh, dense yet medium bodied and juicy. It combines, here again, earthy, floral and mineral notes intermingled with red and dark berries, liquorice and slightly yet integrated oaky flavors lingering for a while in the silky finish. Very approachable now, this wine may benefit from 2-4 years cellaring.

The 2007 vintage has been a success and I even wonder how I didn’t write something about it earlier. Due to the excellent quality of the 2007 vintage in Piedmont, if I was you, I will hurry up to find the last few remaining bottles that you can find. Pair this 2007 Langhe Nebbiolo with rosemary-flavored roasted lamb, garlic and parsley sautéed mushrooms.

Enjoy!

Ledom du Vin

Info taken from the importer website at www.viaswine.com and from the winery website at www.produttoridelbarbaresco.com

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2001 Batasiolo Barolo Vigneto Corda della Briccolina Piedmont Italy

2001 Batasiolo Barolo Vigneto Corda della Briccolina Piedmont Italy
Suggested retail price $95-$105
Importer / Distributor Boisset Family Estates

This wine is produced in limited quantities from a single vineyard of 4 acre called “Corda della Briccolina” planted in the village of Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont. It was aged in small French oak barrels, making it the only Barolo Cru of Batasiolo aged in French oak. The steep south-facing terrain and a soil rich in limestone and calcium carbonate makes this area highly suited for producing well-structured, full-bodied and decidedly long lasting wines with intense color and persistence.

Although Batasiolo is, in my opinion, a slightly more modern style than some of the cult traditionalist out there, the resulting wine is quite exceptional with generous fruit. Moreover, the fantastic 2001 vintage makes it even more complex.

Made from 100% Nebbiolo in its subvarieties (clones like Michet and Lampia), the Corda Briccolina 2001 Barolo has an intense garnet red color of medium to good intensity. The nose exposes notes of ripe dark fruit, spice, cinnamon and earth intermingled with oak hints. The palate is rich, dense and well balanced yet young with dry tannins that needs a bit of time. The finish is lingering quite nicely with persistent fruit flavors, touch of oak and spice notes. Quite lovely. A keeper.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

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2001 Batasiolo Barolo Cerequio Piedmont Italy

2001 Batasiolo Barolo Cerequio Piedmont Italy
Suggested retail price $80-$90
Importer / Distributor Boisset Family Estates

This excellent 2001 Barolo comes from a single-vineyard called “Cerequio” planted in La Morra, a little village next to Barolo, with an excellent ageing capacity. It is considered one of the most historical vineyards for the production of Barolo wine, which has also being called “The Petrus” of Piedmont. The wine was aged for 2 years in big Slovenian oak barrels and remained for a further 8-10 months in the bottle before release as a refinement period.

The resulting wine is superb, with an intense red garnet color. The nose exposes ethereal, rose petal and spice aromas with hints of tobacco, mint and chocolate. The palate is balanced, rich and elegant with rich plum flavors and a long silky finish. Pair it with roasted meat and aged cheeses.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

For more info visit the importer website at www.boissetfamilyestates.com

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2007 Proprieta Sperino Rosa del Rosa Coste della Sesia Rosato

2007 Proprieta Sperino Rosa del Rosa Coste della Sesia DOC Rosato - Vigneti di Marchi - Lessona - Piedmont, Italy

Suggested retail price $15-$18

Distributed by Petit Pois Corp. /Sussex Wine Merchants in NYC


The Coste della Sesia DOC (roughly translated Slopes of the Sesia) is a relatively small, unknown DOC and hilly region, nestled alongside the up-and-rising Lessona DOC and near the more established Ghemme and Gattinara DOCG, in the foothills of the northeastern part of Piedmont facing Switzerland (west of Novara).

The name comes from the river Sesia, a tributary of the Po, which finds its source in the glaciers of Monte Rosa at the Swiss-Italian border. Emerging slowly, this appellation received the DOC status in 1996, allowing a tiny group of producers to better craft and promote their wines.

The DOC is mainly planted with Nebbiolo, also locally called Spanna, Vespolina and Croatina grape varieties and a touch of Barbera, producing great reds and rosés. The whites are mostly made with the Erbaluce grape variety (85% minimum + other local grapes).

Paolo De Marchi, owner and manager of Isole e Olena, an estate acquired by the Di Marchi family in 1950, making wines like Cepparello in Chianti (Tuscany), has become one of Italy's most respected artisan winemakers and a force for positive changes in the Tuscan wine world. Although, Paolo found fame and recognition in Tuscany, his roots have always been in Piedmont, where he is from.

The De Marchi family inherited "Proprietà Sperino", located in the Lessona DOC region, in the middle of the 19th century and produced wine there until 1970. In 2000 Paolo, along with his son Luca, began reclaiming 25 acres of hillside vineyards by replanting Nebbiolo and the other indigenous varieties, Vespolina and Croatina. Both now manage the estate producing white, rose and red wines. Depending of the vintage, Rosa del Rosa is a tank fermented Rosé made from about 65-70% Nebbiolo, and roughly 20% Vespolina and completed with Croatina.

Surely because of the quality of the 2007 vintage in Piedmont, this 2007 Proprieta Sperino "Rosa del Rosa" Coste della Sesia Nebbiolo blend is a fine example of a great rosé from Piedmont. The robe exposes a superb and intriguing, clear, clear, bright, pale orange-salmon color. The nose is fresh, clean, mineral, fruity and floral at the same time with scent of wild red berry and rose petal. The palate is great with watermelon, cantaloupe and ripe peach flavors evolving into white, smooth juicy fruit with a vivid, pink grapefruit-like, citrus acidity in the mid-palate. The finish is fairly long, nice and dry. Overall, this wine is a tasty sipper with enhancing minerality and racy acidity. Somewhat different yet lovely and approachable. To discover this summer.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

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2006 Flavio Roddolo Dolcetto d'Alba Piedmont Italy

Flavio Roddolo


Flavio Roddolo is one of the last remaining truly genuine wine-growers in Piedmont. The 20.000 bottles he produces annually, in the Bricco Appiani hill outside of Monforte, are the work of an artisan deeply attached to his land, who knows and respects each one of his vines.

The 6 hectares of vineyards have not been chemically treated for 40 years, following biodynamic ideas before it became fashionable. Roddolo uses only indigenous yeasts, does not clarify nor filters. The vines, planted on calcareous/clay soil, are 10 to 70 years old. His wines are a reflection of the Monforte terroir and of the man who makes them: they are introverted, brooding and intense, but with patience they reveal a rich, unique and rewarding personality.

2006 Flavio Roddolo Dolcetto d'Alba Piedmont Italy
produced at Nella Cascina Bricco Appiani, Monforte d'Alba
Suggested retail price $17-$19
Distributed by jan d'Amore Wines in NYC

This wine was made with 100% Dolcetto grapes, from 10 to 70 years old vines, harvested the
third week of September. After a fermentation of 15 days in stainless steel tanks. Organic, artisanal, and crafted only using natural yeasts, this wine was bottled unfiltered, unclarified and unfined, in order to keep the distinctive characteristics of the Terroir of origin.

Nice, medium intensity, dark cherry color. The slightly esoteric and rustic nose offers flavors of ripe dark, wild berry with earthy, smoky notes. The palate follows with the same earthy, raw, rustic yet juicy, bistro-like attitude. It tastes almost like freshly crushed ripe, mature grapes mixed with dirt and smoke. The rawness of this wine appears in a more evident way in the mid-palate. The finish is fairly dry and rustic too with present, dry tannins which add very good structure to this wine. A wine of character for the adventurous, somewhat more open minded palate.

Overall, I know, my notes are not necessarily inviting or convincing about this wine, but you 'll be surprise, I enjoyed it despite some angularities. Definitely not your everyday wine, you should decant it to tame it a bit and serve it with a substantial, earthy meal.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken from Jan d'Amore website at www.jandamorewines.com, this producer doesn't seem to have a website.

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LeDom du Vin: Piedmont, Nebbiolo's kingdom

LeDom du Vin: Piedmont, Nebbiolo's kingdom

Located at the most northwestern part of Italy, bordering France (to the west), Switzerland (and also Valle d’Aosta, to the north), Lombardia (to the east), and Liguria (to the south), Piedmont is the kingdom of the Nebbiolo grapes, producing some of the most sought after red wines in the world, like Barolo and Barbaresco. Three other red grape varieties reside also among some of the most preferred reds of Europe: Barbera, Dolcetto and the less recognized yet up-and-coming Freisa. Moscato, Arneis, Cortese and Erbaluce (to a lesser extend) constitute the main white grape varieties that also produce super friendly, versatile, everyday whites like Gavi and Roero Arneis on the dry side and Moscato d’Asti on the sweet, slightly fizzy, side.

Most Piedmontese wines are produced in the south of the region, roughly south-southeast of Turin, around the town of Alba, Asti and Alessandria, in a large area divided into 5 broad zones: Canavese (Turin, Carema and Caluso), Colline Novarese (Novara), Coste della Sesia (Vercelli), Monferrato (Asti and Alessandria) and probably the most well known Langhe (Roero, Alba, Barolo, and Barbaresco)

Piedmont possesses 45 DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) that are more local and rarely go beyond the border of Europe and ….

9 DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) that house some of the best wines of the northern Italy:

• Asti: two slightly sparkling fruity (off dry to sweet) white wines made from the Moscato grape variety: Asti Spumante and Moscato d’Asti (made with 2 different methods). Ideal as an aperitif or to complement a dessert like a fruit salad.

• Barbaresco: produced in the village of the same name (+ Nieve and Treiso), east of Alba, this Nebbiolo grape based wine is somewhat light in color and body yet fairly powerful, rich, flavorful, earthy, floral and very aromatic with great acidity, solid tannic structure and long ageing potential.

• Barolo: produced in the village of the same name, southwest of Alba, this Nebbiolo based wine as quite a few similarities in aspect, aromas and flavors with its equally famed neighbor Barbaresco, but in most cases, it usually is even richer, more powerful and some could say more masculine, with also great ageing potential. Barbaresco, being more delicate and in some way elegant, has a more feminine attitude, still with guts and character (don’t get me wrong).

• Brachetto d’Acqui or Acqui: crafted with the Brachetto grape, from vineyards around the town of Acqui, south of Alessandria, this wine is very aromatic, floral and earthy. It is a frizzante (slightly sparkling) red wine, generally medium-bodied, a touch sweet (some can be medium sweet) and low in alcohol.

• Dolcetto di Dogliani or Dogliani: is a fairly unknown to the US market red made with the Dolcetto grape, in the recently area of the same name, moved from DOC status to DOCG in Piedmont (a DOCG since 2005). To keep an eye on.

• Gattinara: produced in the village of the same name with the Nebbiolo grape, this wine is made primarily from the Nebbiolo grape variety (locally known as Spanna) with, in some cases, a touch of Bonarda di Gattinara and a drop of Vespolina.

• Gavi or Cortese di Gavi: produced in the province of Alessandria, close to the Ligurian border, this Cortese grape based wine is crisp, floral, mineral, with light white fruit and citrus flavors, food friendly and versatile, it is a pretty reliable pleaser that did have its hours of fame in the 80s and 90s (now overwhelm by the flux of other white wines from Italy).

• Ghemme: produced in the Colli Novaresi hills, this red Nebbiolo based is really pleasant, earthy, with very good acidity, a touch rustic and tannic yet food friendly. Like in Gattinara, it can be blended with a small dose of Bonarda di Gattinara and Vespolina.

• Roero: produced in the Langhe, north of Alba, in a hilly region known for its fruit (Peach and pear mainly) this Arneis grape variety based white wine is a delight. Crisp, mineral, light to medium bodied, fruity, well rounded yet with a great acidity, it is a mouthwatering choice as an aperitif or to complement seafood and white fish.

Here you go! The brief and simple above information should help you to make a better choice in your next Piedmont wine selection.

Continue to check my blog at www.ledomduvin.com for more notes and info on some of the Piedmont wines that I tasted recently.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

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Guidobono: friendly, approachable and affordable Piedmont wines

Guidobono

Dreaming of one day being able to produce Barolo, the Faccenda family purchased this winery in 2003. The vineyards lie just outside of Monforte d'Alba, a commune of the Cuneo province, located southwest of Alba. The vines are 30 to 40 years old for the oldest, planted on limestone soil.

Guidobono’s wines are textbook interpretations of the indigenous grapes of the Langhe. Bright, generous and well rounded for the Roero; fruit driven, juicy, soft and rich for the two Barbera(s); austere yet approachable for the Nebbiolo; and structured and traditional for the Barolo.

Overall, one can say that, Guidobono produces fruitier, more modern style of Barbera and Nebbiolo. However (and in my opinion), they still have one foot into the traditional style of Langhe, which makes them true to their terroir of origin and somewhat less intimidating for the fruit driven, rapidly evolving and trully eager to learn (young) American palate (think about all of these years of manischewitz or white Zinfandel.....lol...when I think that some people continue to believe that it is good wine....they don't know what they are missing).




2007 Guidobono Langhe Arneis Piedmont Italy
Suggested retail price $16-$18
Distributed by Jan d'Amore Wines in NYC

Made with Arneis grapes planted on clay-limestone soil, harvested in mid-September. The wine undergoes a Criomaceration (pre-fermentation cooling process*) then fermentation in stainless steel tank. Filtered then bottled in March of the following year. The wine is released about 6-7 months after harvest, to emphasize the freshness.

Lovely, round, well balanced, fleshy and fruity with peachy and zesty flavors complemented by a great acidity. Ideal for late afternoon drinks, as an aperitif or with Mediterranean flavored fish and white meat. A sipper and a crowd pleaser for party, and casual dinner.



2007 Guidobono Barbera d'Alba Piedmont Italy
Suggested retail price $16-$18
Distributed by Jan d'Amore Wines in NYC

Made with Barbera grapes planted on clay-limestone soil, with vines of 10 years old in average. The grapes were harvested in the beginning of October. The wine was then fermented in stainless steel tanks and matured for 6 months in large oak casks and used barriques where the malolactic fermentation usually takes place. It was bottled in July of the following year, and released about one year after harvest.

From the generous, and especially interesting in Piedmont, 2007 vintage, this Barbera possesses ripe red and dark cherry flavors, balanced by a great acidity and structured earthy tannins. here again, this wine is fleshy and fruity, in the same time round, soft and approachable yet it remains quite young and the tannins need a tiny bit of time. Decant it before serving to tame the finish or wait for it for another year or two.



2007 Guidobono Langhe Nebbiolo piedmont Italy
Suggested retail price $17-$19
Distributed by Jan d'Amore Wines in NYC

Made with Nebbiolo grapes planted on clay and sand soil, with vines of 20 years old in average. This wine spent 5 days under maceration and fermentation in stainless steel casks, then matured for about 8 months in large oak casks. It was bottled in June of the following year and released roughly one year after harvest.

The 2007 vintage is bringing a lot to this Nebbiolo based wine, that has almost the richness of a baby Barolo. It is still very young and the earthy tannins in the finish really deserve a bit of time. But here again, a little decantation will allow a better expression of the dark berry fruit, floral notes and spice hints. It still fairly approchoable and enjoyable now, but it will surely benefit of a few years of rest in the bottle.




In conclusion, I will say that Jan d'Amore is a great, humble and gentle Italian guy (another one...) who has a small portfolio yet full of small undiscovered (in the US market) producers and wineries like Guidobono that really deserve a bit more attention.

See you soon at the store Jan,

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info taken from Jan d'Amore website at: www.jandamorewines.com

* - During a process called crio-maceration the grape musts (freshly and gently pressed white grapes still containing solids- pulp, skins, stems, and seeds) are cooled to a temperature of 40°F (4.5ºC) in stainless steel tubes or small tanks. The time and the temperature at which this process takes place greatly determine the texture and characteristics of the finished product).

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