Wines in retail store: Standing Up or Laying Down bottle?

Dominique Noel (a.k.a. LeDomduVin),
Wine Director at Heights Chateau, Brooklyn Heights, NYC (2010)
©LeDomduVin 2010

Standing Up or Laying Down bottle?

Not because it is the store where I currently work (and have been working for the last nearly 4 years), but "Heights Chateau" is the quintessential "niche wine boutique store": antique library look, elegant boiserie, quaint charm, warm atmosphere, inviting, cosy and full of carefully selected wine and spirits gems (from all around the world) by the knowledgeable and friendly staff, under the leadership and guidance of its friendly, experienced and skilful owner - Matthew Lasorsa.

Both pictures (above and below) show you the charm of this Brooklyn Heights neighbourhood “Alibaba Cavern” and partly reflect the extent of the choices it has to offer, neatly organized on shelves and displays for the pleasure and easy access of our customers. 

As you can see, 1 bottle is shown on display, while the others are laying down in the back of the shelves where they are both protected from the lights and able to rest laying down with the wine touching the cork (the most ideal way to store wines, even the bottles don’t stay long enough on the shelves for their conditions to really be impacted).

Very often, when our customers come to the store and pick up one or more bottles from the shelves, they inadvertently take the first one(s) they see, which, generally and in most case scenarios, end up being the one(s) standing up.

Wine Shelves at Heights Chateau, Brooklyn Heights, NYC 
Photo courtesy of www.yelp.com 

As mentioned above, at Heights Chateau, the bottles are stored on beautiful antique-like library shelves, with one bottle (for display) standing up in front of a few more bottles (about 6-8 bottles), which are (usually) stored vertically (forming a column) with the bottles at the horizontal (lying down on their side) on top of each other (see picture above).

The owner and myself, as the store's manager and wine director, as well as the rest of the staff, are very concerned about the quality of the bottle(s) we buy and sell, how we store them.  However, we are even more concerned about how our customers pick their wine(s) and take it(them) from the shelves. 

Consequently,  unless they don’t have any other choice (as there is only one bottle left standing up), we always recommend them to choose one of the bottles lying down in the back rather than the one standing up (facing them).

And irremediably, my colleagues and I, (nearly every time we do that recommendation), are faced with the same unavoidable question from our customers: "Why? Why can't I buy the bottle standing up?" 

Well, there are surely countless amounts of reasons I could give for you not to buy the bottle standing up, yet, among them, the following 4 ones seem (to me) the most obvious and logical. And these are usually the reasons I give to my customers, when having to choose a bottle of wine in a retail store (whether it is a niche wine boutique store or a supermarket, or anywhere else you buy your wine from for that matter), and explaining why they should avoid taking the one(s) standing up.

Four Reasons not to buy a bottle standing up at your regular wine store: 

A wine Cork's Story by ©LeDomduVin 2018 (v2)

1. Dry cork and Oxidation

The first reason that comes to mind is that the bottles standing up might be affected by "dry cork and oxidation". Due to lack of the inventory's turnover on the shelves and/or, (even worst), if all the bottles on the shelves are standing up (like in a supermarket), and more especially for the bottles that have been corked with a real tree "cork" (and even for the ones that are made out of agglomerate cork to some extend, but not for the synthetic ones (*)), the cork may have dried out (due to lack of contact with the wine inside), and let some air enter the bottle, which may have resulted in some oxidation of the wine in the bottle. 

Once oxidized, a wine is bad and deteriorates rather quickly (especially if the bottle is left standing up), and its color tend to become dull and brownish (for red wines). 

That is the first and main reason why one should always choose to take a bottle from the ones that are laying down rather than from the ones standing up on the shelves.

(*) Screw-tap and plastic-like-synthetic corked bottles are usually less or rarely exposed to this kind of problem, but there again, it may happen, especially with bad or loose screw-tap caps.

Corked and Upstanding Bottles by ©LeDomduVin 2019 (v2)

A little tip: 

Always pour yourself a little taste of the wine prior filling up the rest of the glasses (the ones of your company and/or guests), as if you happen to have a bottle that you believe is oxidized or corked after tasting the first sip, do not serve it and discreetly put it aside...

(that way you will prevent anyone from making any embarrassing comments and consequently save your face at the same time, and will continue to enjoy a dinner that will have surely turned a little sour and annoying otherwise...) 

...then, immediately put the cork back and bring the bottle back to the store (where you bought it from) with what is left of wine in the bottle. 

Do not pour  the wine out in the sink (like most people do), as you might still have a chance to get your money back or get to choose another bottle as a replacement of the bad one (obviously that entirely depends of the type of store and store management you will face... you might need a tiny bit of luck too). 

One of the following scenarios will occur:

A.   You've only poured and took a sip for yourself to taste first, and the bottle is about 95% full, which is good (and will surely work on your favor when at the store explaining the situation) 

B.    You've poured a few glasses already, but they have not been touched yet... you're in luck, just pour the content of the glasses back into the bottle, put the cork back, then bring the bottle back to the store (the person at the store does not need to know you've poured the untouched wine back in the bottle, remain impassive and/or evasive on that part) 

C.    You've poured a few glasses already, and people started to taste the wine a little.... bad luck (sh*t), then forget about it, just put back the cork on the bottle as it is, probably only 40-50% of the wine left in the bottle, yet you might still have a chance... it ain't over til it's over... 

D.    You've poured the whole bottle and the glasses have long been emptied (and maybe no one but you noticed the fault...).... well, your loss... and don't push your luck mate... coz, bringing the empty bottle to the store and try to convince the store manager the bottle was oxidized or corked won't get you far.... 😊     

However, whether A, B or C (Shh.... not D we told you... ), just remember that the store needs the bottle, the cork (if possible) and (more importantly) the wine inside in order to taste it, to agree or disagree (that the wine is faulty or not), and if agreed to let you choose another bottle at the same or similar price and/or refund you (depending on their policy and also the understanding and kindness of the store manager). They also need the bottle with the wine inside for them to make, in turn, a claim and try to get the bottle replaced or a get a credit back from their suppliers/distributors.

The store should normally exchange it for a new one or another wine of your choice at the same or similar price (if they are nice and if they want to keep your business... at least that is what I do). That say, as a wine being oxidized doesn’t happen too often, and being corked either, that is if your local wine shop is doing the right thing and if you have the right customer profile (in their eyes)... Otherwise, forget about it, most stores management and/or policy will totally ignore your request and probably won't even acknowledge you. 

The Daily Life of a Bottle of Wine on Display by ©LeDomduVin 2019

2. The life of a wine bottle on display: Grabbed, checked, shaken, put back, repeat

The second reason is that the standing up bottles on the shelves, (usually the ones on display to identify the other bottles lying in the back), are always the ones that people grab, check, shake and (too often) put back without buying it, and with no consideration whatsoever for the poor wine all shaken inside the bottle. Wine doesn’t like to be shaken. Do you?

Wine Under Bright Lights by ©LeDomduVin 2019

3. Under the bright lights

The third reason is that the standing up bottles (especially the ones on display) are always the ones which receive the most light, usually the lights from inside the store (generally cheap neon fixtures glaring from the ceiling), but also from outside the store, like the sun light (yet, and obviously, that entirely depends on the store plan configuration and how large and close to the wine shelves the store's windows are... duh....).

Light usually discolors the wine. It fades or dulls the color of the wine, which may becomes lighter at first than may darken into a dullish-brownish color. In parallel, light may also affect the aging of the wine too (aging or reaching its peak prematurely) (**).

• For the young and light whites: the color might go from light yellow-greenish hue to becomes

• For the older and heavier whites: the color will evolve from pale and/or deeper yellow, to darker yellow-brownish

• For the reds: the color will turn from purplish-ruby red-crimson red to a dull brownish brick color (in general)   

Among other places, (and don't get me started on supermarket's ultra-bright and harmful neon lights), rare are the wine stores that have the appropriate LED lighting and proper light orientation to make it less harmful for the wines. In fact, it is quite intriguing and enervating (and fascinating in a weird way) to see bottles on display under direct bright lights in most (supposedly fancy and reputed) wine store... (like if they did not know... unbelievable).... 

And (fortunately), that is the main reason why wine (in general), and more especially red wine, which often needs a minimum of time to age in the bottle, always come in darker colored bottles (green, dark green, brown, amber or even black), to filter the light and more especially some of the harmful UV rays, and thus prevent the light from discoloring and damaging the wine in the bottle.

It might not matter much for wines made for immediate consumption, which are usually inexpensive enough to have a good turnover and thus move faster from the shelves. Like young white and rosé wines, for example, which (usually) come in transparent or lighter colored bottles for color identification purposes (and maybe for aesthetic purposes too).

Yet, it definitely matters for top tier, expensive and high quality wines (more especially reds, but also some whites), which usually come in darker colored bottles protecting them from the light, as they usually need more aging time in the bottle.

(**) I have also read that light, among other faults, may also cause oxidation in the wine. I definitely agree for the faults that might include side effects and changes in the wine chemical composition/reaction due to the degradation of the color and pigmentation/sedimentation/residues/ components of the wine, harmed by the UV rays of the light. However, I have doubts regarding the "oxidation" of the wine by the light, as oxidation usually occurs via/through air contact, and air cannot pass through glass, as glass is impermeable to gases and liquids and is nonporous (meaning that light can pass through it but not air, nor gas or liquid). 

Color and Sediments A Soap Opera for the old, rich and famous by ©LeDomduVin 2019

4. Older wine's sediments and color pigments falling down and settling at the bottom of the bottle

The fourth reason is that, as the wine gets older in the bottle, the sedimentation naturally occurs and thus sediments form inside the bottle as the wine ages and matures (***). These sediments consist of a combination or mixture of micro-particles, composed of debris of solid matter, as well as color pigments and other wine component's residues in suspension. 

If the bottle is left standing up and the suspension is left undisturbed, these micro-particles, color pigments and other residues, will gradually fall towards and likely settle at the bottom of the bottle (in the punt). 

Understandably, if the bottle is left standing up, and more especially if it is an older wine/vintage, all the sedimentation will fall down at the bottom of the bottle, and as a consequence (and due to the fragility of older wines), the consistency of the color, but also the taste (of the wine of this particular bottle) will be irrevocably disturbed/changed. The color of the wine will fade gradually from the upper part of the bottle (logically being more concentrated at the bottom than the top) and the wine will taste slightly dull and unbalanced, lacking of focus in aromas and flavors.

I never repeat it enough, but it is really, really important to keep these old ladies at an horizontal position (meaning on their side, and not standing up) for the sedimentation (or the sediments if you prefer) to rest at the bottom along the side of the bottle. That way, the sediments remain in contact with most of the wine contained in the bottle allowing it to keep its color and taste consistency.

(***) Sedimentation usually occurs for most wines (yes, even whites), and more especially the wines that did not undergo any "soutirage" (racking), nor "collage" (fining) or filtration during the vinification, the aging in stainless still vats or wooden barrels and/or prior bottling.

"Le Domaine du Vin" by LeDomduVin, NYC Boutique store style, by ©LeDomduVin 2017

 5. Conclusion

In short, and for these 4 main reasons above, while shopping and browsing around for some good bottles of "JaJa" (a synonym of "wine") at your local wine boutique store (like at Heights Chateau), you should always choose the bottles laying down rather than the ones standing up.

That is also the reason why, in my honest opinion, one should always favor the recommendations and prone the quality of the eclectic choices (the wine selection) of a local wine boutique store (a "Caviste" as we say in French), rather than looking bewildered and irritated when facing the endless and usually “staff-less” aisles of a supermarket, which will (usually) offer a lot of choices, more especially in terms of low quality and prices, but will definitely lack the uniqueness and precision of the wine selection, the knowledgeable advises and the quality of the services, as well as the more intimate and personable experience a wine boutique store usually provides.(****)

Remember, that, unless the bottle standing up (that you are about to grab) is the last remaining bottle of the wine you really want in the store, and you don’t have any other choice, and you want it so badly, that, no matter what, you will take it anyway..... then, it is the bottle laying down that you would want and should take, not the one standing up

PS: in fact, leave the standing up ones for those who do not know better, don't care, don't want to listen and/or will not believe you even if you tell them anyway....

Enjoy!

(****) Matthew La Sorsa, owner of Heights Chateau, if you ever read this article, thank you for everything you taught me about wines and how to manage a retail store and for the opportunity you gave me to be the wine director and manager of your beautiful and characteristic wine boutique store in Brooklyn Heights (NYC) back then, for nearly 4 years (between October 2007 and July 2011). Thank you. The drawing above was inspired by the façade of your store. 😊

Santé!

LeDomduVin (a.k.a. Dominique Noel)

All illustrations and pictures and other materials used in LeDomduVin blog and other relative LeDomduVin sites and/or social medias/networks are subject to copyrights ©LeDomduVin

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Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

Wine Buyer's theories, deliberations and thoughts...

Wine Buyer's theories, deliberations and thoughts...

Bye bye 2010 and welcome 2011, hoping that it will be a better year! Isn’t it what we say every year?… except that lately, over the last three to five years, it has been more anticipated and especially more expected than ever before.

While parts of the world are at stake regarding politic, religion, power, civil war, terrorism, dictatorship, protests, strikes, unemployment, unsettled economy, man made catastrophes and other natural disasters due to unstable climate and rapid weather forecast changes and consequently logical earth evolution and adaptation in addition to Nature natural cycles and adaptation too, it seems that the market in the US isn’t great but somewhat feels thinly, slightly better. Yet people are still very cautious and prioritize needed things rather than indulging on unnecessary stuffs.

Hence, all these factors make for an uncertain and questionable future. In the long term, we will hopefully find solutions and will reestablish a certain balance and order to things. Yet, in the short term, for now, it is pretty difficult to predict the immediate future and how things will turn.

Therefore, this trembling world economy somewhat obliges us to look more closely at our bank statements and savings, and make lesser use of our wallet and plastic cards. It is true for pretty much everything in life like food, cloths, bills, furniture, etc… but when it comes to wine and spirits, which are once again part of luxury and special occasions beverages rather than daily routine drinks for most of us, it really means to search for rather inexpensive, or let’s say less expensive wine and spirits than what we could still afford only a few years ago.

Consequently and thankfully, my job has become even more challenging and more interesting than before because, despite continuing to be accurate and consistent during tastings, about the quality of the wines that I buy and the quality/value ratio, I need to be even more precise to determine greater quality and complexity in cheaper, or let’s say more affordable wine and spirits. It is not as easy as it seems, but it helps me to remain focus and determinate to find good values and great deals to satisfy my faithful clientele.

Before, let say 5-10 years ago, it happened that even if a wine wasn’t that great, but was just good, I used to buy it from time to time. It happened for different reasons: real bargain, friendship with the distributor, a little help for my friend, etc… (and a few more lame excuses that resurfaced here and there, even now from time to time but way less than before). But nowadays, with much more competition in the market than before (more retailers, but also much more importers and distributors than only 5 years ago), therefore, with a lot more wine & spirits pouring on the big Apple and elsewhere, I can now say NO as much and often as I please. And If I don’t love a wine why buy it? Why put it on the shelf if I only just like it? No, no, not anymore! I want the best for my customers and I don’t want any of them to go next door because one my wine displeased them. It might still happen, but I'm trying really hard to avoid it.

A welcoming, well maintained cozy store offering enjoyable, efficient, and responsive services dispensed by knowledgeable staffs is everything for sure in any retail business. But eyes-catching, informative and user friendly website with competitive prices, real bargain and frequent sales, in addition to abundant in-store tastings and events are the keys to success. Yet, most important of all, integrity and honesty in your manners and ways of treating yourself, your employees and more especially your customers will definitely open the door to greater longevity of the store. Not working with your customer’s budget, “bullshitting” and lying about an item (or more) to your customers will not only make you lose your own credibility but also the credibility of the store.

That is why, as I said earlier, being accurate during tastings and consistent in my taste and ways of tasting are very important and help me to remain focus and determinate to find good values and great deals to satisfy my faithful clientele. As a wine buyer, it is essential for me to taste thoroughly all the wines that I buy and put on the shelves, to offer the best quality/value ratio wines that I can find on the market and only get the ones that I really love, and not anymore the one that I just like.

Fortunately for us all, wine and spirits buyers and drinkers, the world market is overcrowded with wines and spirits from all around the world, due to recent surge of optimist entrepreneurs, investors and producers who, thinking that it will be quite lucrative enough, fiercely over the last 2 decades, nearly over-developed two of the fastest growing segments of earth agriculture: vine-growing and wine-making.

Which means that I have to taste much more wine and spirits than before (life is really difficult… I love it), but it also means that I get to say no and being more picky than ever before, more often. It is not going to arrange my already wildly known reputation of being a difficult, opinionated and picky wine buyer. But, it is for a good cause…

However, wineries and distilleries have been mushrooming everywhere around the world, even in places that we didn’t think that it was possible only about 10-15 years ago (Vietnam, Cuba, etc…). Consequently, the market is now over-flooded with thousands of brand new wines and spirits, and, like for science, medicine and especially electronic, it is difficult to keep pace with the new trends and new comers.

In any case, like with many other things in life, I realized that most benchmarks and gifted winemakers and distillers prevail. All the others are way too often only pale copies of their mentors and inspirations. Don’t get me wrong, there are great wines and other beverages made by young, innovative, talented and/or adventurous, spirited minds out there. And more and more smaller, artisanal producers come out of the dark to craft beauties and gems for the pleasure of our taste buds. But within the crowd of people trying and the resulting ocean of wine and spirits that submerges the market every year, only rare and few remain the best that are really worth putting on the shelves.

Buyers like me watch this fast evolution with interests and opinions, but remain cautious not to let our taste buds and palates get to hasty conclusions and bad buying decisions.

Spirits, which were pretty stable and safe for the last 40-60 years, even saw their world rocked by a growing wave of modernized and altered versions of highly recognizable benchmarks.

Take for example Vodka, which was usually made from fermented substances like grain and potatoes, it now adorns new profiles being crafted with grapes and other fruits. I hear you say: “It should be Grappa then!” Yet not really, because Grappa is obtained by distilling "pomace" and grape residues (mainly skins, but also stems and seeds) left over from winemaking after pressing. Therefore the distilled component is different and distillation process also differs from Grappa. Therefore, Vodka nowadays can be made pretty much out of anything and still being called Vodka. An idea that was surely unthinkable only 20-30 years ago.

And for wine, same thing! After World War II and consequently due to the baby-boom generation, wine was overproduced in the 1960s and 70s. Producers couldn’t keep up with the demand of a world population that suddenly double in 30-40 years, from 2.5 billions in the mid-20s to more than 4 billions by the mid-60s. A lot of chemically enhanced fertilizers and machine were used. Herbs and plants in the vineyards were suddenly considered bad and useless and unhealthy, and after multiple spray were looking rather unhealthily and uniformly yellow instead of their original bright and lively colors.

Then, while more and more wineries mushroomed everywhere, the end of the 70s and beginning of the 80s saw an evolution in the wine world, vinification, ageing and bottling processes were fully done at the property rather than at the local cooperatives, or by the Négociants, like it used to be only a few decades before. The world population increased to about 6 billions. Critics like Robert Parker Jr., Wine Spectator, Stephen Tanzer and importers like Neal Rosenthal, Kermit Lynch, and many more timidly led, as pioneers of an America having great interest in wines, the way to educate the American palates about wines from the rest of the world.

Also in the mid-70s, Steven Spurrier organized the Tasting of Paris (Judgment of Paris, 1976), which, in my opinion, was more a publicity stunt than anything else; yet it allowed California to be recognized and put on the map of world class producing wine regions along Bordeaux and Burgundy. An eyes-opening experience proving to the French that they were not the only one that could make great wines and putting on pedestal an American area that will now rival some of the most established French and other prestigious European wine regions like Rioja, Ribera del Duero in Spain and Piedmont and Tuscany in Italy. Due to high demand, production increased. And somewhat influenced by certain critics and newly-recognized-future-flying-winemakers, new oak treatment with medium-to-heavy toast burn became the norm, led by Bordeaux and California where vanilla and toasted bread flavors dominated the fruit. Heavy chemical treatments were still occurring massively everywhere.

In the 90s, human being aspired to a new social consciousness, new wood ageing became less important, stainless steel tanks appeared everywhere in many shapes and forms, and organic method had a renaissance. People in general came to the conclusion that we needed to be green once again and step back in the trails left by our recent ancestors. Suddenly, we had to be good again with Nature to preserve the earth and the soil and all the life that it encompasses.

Nowadays, Us, people of the 21st century like to give names and words to things that already existed before but were spoiled, forgotten or neglected for the past 100 years due to supposedly to rapid progress and better solutions systems. Yet and fortunately, after spoiling, neglecting and rapidly destroying the earth and its natural ecosystem, especially since World War II, we recently came to the conclusion that what our ancestors were doing without real science but rather by listening the cycles of Mother Nature and being attentive, cautious, methodical and more especially a bit less disruptive with the environment, was probably better and more appropriate to healthier results.

My grandfather, which was a winemaker, was an earthy man and a man of earth, spending most of his time outside from 6am to 7am (+) and actively living at Nature pace, always busy doing something in the vineyard, or in his orchards of multiple fruit trees, or in his garden planted with many herbs, plants and vegetables, or even with his animals: hens, roosters, rabbits, dogs, cats, fish and birds amongst other things. He lived the farm life paced by Nature rhythms from dawn till dark. He didn’t need the television forecast to know what will be the weather for the next few days. It was instinctive, habitual and the result of knowledge, know-how and other experiences passed on from Father to son from previous generations started hundreds of years ago.

People like him were just paying attention about the signs of Nature and seemed to know more accurately than nowadays approximate forecast and previsions, what will come their way depending on the reactions of the animals and the plants and the changes in the atmosphere and in the air. Just by observing and obey ancient ritual and processes and ways of doing things at a certain given time and periods during the day, the week, the month or the year, they knew instinctively how to do and apply in their life what we have nearly lost and will be soon forgotten, if we don’t go back to it faster: taking the time to watch, observe, understand, comprehend and apply the right method, treatment and process with the utmost respect for Nature and the environment. Think about it….

Take Biodynamic method for example, regarded by some as the first modern ecological farming system originated out of the work of Rudolph Steiner, it is simply the result of researches of organic and sustainable cultures applied into a scientific calendar following the natural cycles of Mother Nature in accordance with the movement of the stars and the influence of the rotation of the moon mixed with a few recipes to naturally enhance the soil and recreate a proper environment amongst which the vines and other plants and trees and life in general can naturally and biologically regenerate themselves.

All this knowledge about organic and biodynamic "savoir-faire" that was almost innate for generations and existed for centuries before we recently gave it a name, nearly disappeared by the beginning of the 20th century, but was gathered and put into books and scientific methods by now renown searchers and doctors who somewhat amputated modern men of this all natural six sense: instinct, which was only the biological, rational and methodical result of the other five senses applied to everything that surround us in our everyday life: vision, hearing, smell, taste, and touch.

However, we are less and less often using our senses and especially instinct, and definitely not anymore with Mother Nature. We are now totally devoted to speed and progress, but we are not learning anything about surrounding anymore, the animals, the plants, the earth in general. Even if comprehensive movies and documentaries are made about the fact that we should preserve Nature, the environment, the extreme diversity of the fauna and the flora of little planet, rare and few are the ones that really pay attention or even care.

Yet, many winemakers around the world have adopted sustainable, organic and / or biodynamic farming cultures and methods, and we should all follow these examples, for a healthier planet and a better future for our children (I have two now, I have to be optimistic and hope that things will change for the better).

Things have never changed so fast than over the last 20-30 years. The cadence has accelerated in term of progress and lightning fast changes. In the last 100 years, we talked about changes happening in generations, which was approximately every 25-30 years. Then it became more like every 15-20 years, then from 10 to too rapidly 5 years and nowadays, we speak in term of every 6 months to a year maximum. It is specifically true for science, medicine and technologies, but it also true for wine and spirits making. The competition is fierce out there and new comers continue to appear every year.

About 40-50 years ago, out of the 195 countries in the world, barely 40 countries were producing wine and spirits with a significant import-export market, and only about 15-20 remained the top leaders, the model tank engines on which most other wines profiled themselves for years before reaching their own status, taste, characteristic and Terroirs.

Nowadays, more than 75 countries produce their own wine and spirits for local and export market. Even in the US, out of 50 states, now 38 are firmly producing wines including 6-8, also producing for the export market (California, Oregon, Washington, New Mexico, New York, Michigan, Virginia, etc…) and some the remaining 12 too have locally scattered vines and wines.

Like everything else, the world wine and spirits market is evolving at rocket speed, with methods and trends that also evolve and step into modern technologies, or sometimes comeback to traditions too. Like the recent trend of abandoning oak barrels and vats and stainless steel tanks to favor bare concrete tanks without the usual resin epoxy or even glass lining, or even to bring back from the ocean deeps and the Roman and Greek ruins from which they were inspired, the buried ancient ceramic and dirt Amphorae(s), which were the original container in which wine was contained thousands of years ago.

Therefore, whether reenacting the gestures and habits done for the past 4000 years by our ancestors and their nearly infallible and recognized methods and knowledge, or stepping into the future led by computerized machines and most updated gems of technology, the wine and spirits world will always remain an active world producing happiness, moments and momentum for people who know how to appreciate and share great food, wine and spirits to have good times with family and friends with earthy, healthy agricultural products coming from around the world.

As I said earlier, it makes my job more challenging but also more fun and rewarding. But one thing is sure, no matter what, I will always continue to discover and taste to provide you with the best of what I can find. I never say NO to taste something, whether it is food, wine, spirits or any other beverages, because life is too short and I don’t want to die stupid. Consequently, it is good for me to experience as many things as I can.

And as I always say: “Everything that you can eat or drink deserves to be at least seen, smelled and tasted for your personal knowledge, education and experience; even if not everything should be consumed!”

Think about it…

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

Domaine Albert Mann & 2009 Albert Mann Auxerrois Vieilles Vignes Wettolsheim Alsace France

By the end of last April 2010, my friend Donald from Peter Weygandt Selection came with a producer that I met a few times before, who is a true inspiration as a gifted and extremely knowledgeable winemaker, but also along with his brother Maurice, a leading figure of the Organic (Biologique in French) and Biodynamic movement in France. I had the pleasure to welcome Jacky Barthelmé at the store, to taste about 11 of his wines.

We talked a lot about everything concerning Organic and Biodynamic methods and the vinification process too. Unfortunately, I never took the time to write about it before now, but I feel that I had to do it.

However, it would be too long for me to reenact our discussion with words in one post. Therefore, here is a short presentation of the Domaine Albert Mann; followed by the description of one of their wines. I will soon write another post on the other wines tasted that day.

Domaine Albert Mann

The birth of Domaine Albert Mann is the fruit of the joint efforts of two long established winemaker families, "Mann" and "Barthelmé". Mann's are winegrowers since the beginning of the 17th century and Barthelmé's since 1654.

In 1947, Albert Mann was one of the first growers in Wettolsheim to bottle his own wine, and by 1962 was marketing and selling his entire production. He died in 1994 and gave his name to the Domaine. Maurice Barthelmé married Albert Mann's daughter, Marie-Claire, and gradually took over the Domaine and fully run it by 1984. He also brought his brother Jacky into the operation in the late 1980s. And consequently, it was in 1989, when Albert son-in-law Maurice Barthelmé and his brother Jacky, with the Manns family, formed the company "Domaine Albert Mann", that the quality took on a new level.

Beginning in 1993, the Barthelmé’s started a string of dazzling successes, producing stellar wines, traditional and full of character, yet more complex than the ones previously made at the estate. Their 1998 wines had even more brilliant delineation despite a more challenging, but in turn, rewarding "vintage of the vigneron." That is how it all began and the rest is history.

Today both brothers, Maurice and Jacky Barthelmé, with their wives, Marie-Claire and Marie-Thérèse, manage the family estate and continue their ascension, with the aim of producing the best wines they can craft with the utmost respect for the environment through organic methods.

Domaine Albert Mann is now one of the few inescapable wineries of Alsace and also a quintessential winery player in Alsace, with a leading role in matter of Organic, Biodynamic and sustainable management. Organically managed and "Ecocert" certified, and better known for its whites, (its Riesling Schlossberg Grand Cru is always a standard of excellence), this exemplary Domaine also produces a tiny amount of succulent Pinot Noir and late harvest wines, which deserves more attention.

Located in Wettolsheim, a little village in the heart of Alsace just a few kilometers southwest of Colmar, neighboring the northern part of Eguisheim and the communal forest of Wettolsheim, the estate possesses about 20-21 hectares including 9 hectares of prestigious vineyards and parcels on hill slopes and in other part of the valley, overlooked by the “Col du Milsbach” shyly culminating at about 600 meters of altitude.

The vines, planted mainly between 200 and 400 meters of altitude, benefit from the ideal micro-climate of Colmar, producing wines that are rich, almost oily, but dry and mineral yet with significant residual sugar but well integrated and concentrated, usually balanced by beautiful acidity and enhanced by expressive minerality.

The Mann family possessed some Grand Cru Vineyards: Hengst, Steingrubler, Pfersigberg (for Tokay Vieilles Vignes) and the wonderful Rosenberg Vineyard. From their mother (a member of the Blanck Family of Kaysersberg), they inherited the Schlossberg and Furstentum Vineyards (as well as the Altenbourg, adjoining the Furstentum).

When the Domaine was established, the Mann and Barthelmé vineyards were reunified into the same estate. Hence, now, Domaine Albert Mann produces about 35 different wines from 20-21 hectares scattered in 8 communes with vines planted in some of the best Alsatian Terroir, including 5 Grands Crus and 3 "Lieux-Dits", one being a Monopole.

Soon after World War II, Albert Mann decided to use modern production tools, without neglecting the constraints of the soil, because it was and remain to this day the main richness for making good wines. The wine-growers are themselves the origin, they have to continue and to valorize the work of their ancestors. Domaine Albert Mann's philosophy is to make wines composed with the elements of the soil and not by fertilizers. The estate aims to produce a wine in harmony with nature while realizing an agriculture whose finality is not to treat, but to strengthen the vitality of the soil.

The grape varieties at Domaine Albert Mann and the respective vineyards are divided as follow:

Grape varieties at Domaine Albert Mann and distribution of the types of vines:

• Pinot Blanc Auxerrois 25 %
  
• Riesling 26 %
  
• Pinot Gris 16 %
  
• Gewurztraminer 18 %
  
• Pinot Noir 12 %
  
• Muscat 3 %

Description of the 5 Grands Crus vineyards, which encompass about 6 hectares in total, with the type of soil and planted grape varieties:

• Grands Crus HENGST (Wintzenheim), calcareous-marl-sandstone soil: Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir

• SCHLOSSBERG (Kaysersberg), granitic soil: Riesling
  

• FURSTENTUM (Kientzheim), calcareous soil: Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer

• STEINGRUBLER (Wettolsheim), calcareous-marl-sandstone soil: Gewurztraminer
  

• PFERSIGBERG (Eguisheim), calcareous, sandstone soil: Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir.
  

Names of the other vineyard's area or "lieux-dits", which encompass about 3 hectares, with the type of soil and planted grape varieties:

• ALTENBOURG (Kientzheim), calcareous-marl soil: Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Muscat
  

• ROSENBERG (Wettolsheim), clayey soil, oozy with calcareous tendency: Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Gewurztraminer
  

• CLOS DE LA FAILLE (Wintzenheim), a vineyard monopole of the estate, the upper part of the "Clos" encloses shingle of rosy Vosges sandstone of the Buntsandstein and shingle of calcareous sandstone. In the middle, you see the calcareous shingle of the Muschelkalk, grey with very fine grain, and yellow shingle of the Jurassic. In the lower part, you find a mixture of shingle of Vosges sandstone and of white and rosy quartz: from the Pinot Noir grapes planted there results a great wine that you should deserve more attention.

Constantly well rated by the trade, critics and press as one of the top tier of Alsace producers, the Domaine and more importantly the Barthelmé brothers, winemaker Jacky and viticulturist Maurice, have now attained the recognition they deserve. From the Pinot Auxerrois, through all their expressive Grand Crus, to their rich, Selection Grains Noble, they portray their unique style consistently with beautiful delineation of flavors and precise textures, never heavy, clumsy or out of balance.

I highly recommend to discover the various wines of Domaine Albert Mann if you never tried them before. They represent some of the best wines out there, which can easily rival with some of the more established Alsatian producers on the market.

Here is a good one to start with:




2009 Albert Mann Auxerrois Vieilles Vignes Wettolsheim Alsace France
Suggested retail price $17-$20
Imported/Distributed by Peter Weygandt Selections in NYC

Albert Mann Pinot Auxerrois Vieilles Vignes is part of the range of the “Terroirs wines”, one of the numerous lines or labels produced by the Barthelmé brothers. The “Terroirs wines” are usually coming from the Altenbourg and the Rosenberg vineyards and/or part of the “spéciale Cuvée Albert”. They are famous for their great quality. The characteristic soil and micro-climate of each give them an incomparable touch. These are wines which will find, without any problem, their place on gastronomic menus.

The label was created by François Bruetschy. This particular label destined for the noble wines presents itself as a part of the sun, a planet where everything organizes itself according to its own laws. The striped square which symbolizes the soil where the vineyards are growing thus became the logo or the « brand » of the Domaine Albert Mann. On both sides of this square where the plant springs up, some kinds of “menhirs” appear (“menhir”, which is usually a large granitic stone manly sculpted, a bit like those used for “Stonehenge” monument in England, signifies the man, which signifies Mann) and which are the abstractive figuration of the two families whose talent and ardent search for quality are an integral part of the excellence of the wines.

Auxerrois Blanc or Auxerrois Blanc de Laquenexy or also Pinot Auxerrois, is a white wine grape that is mainly planted in Alsace, and is also grown in Germany and Luxembourg. It is a full sibling of Chardonnay that is often blended with the similar Pinot Blanc grape variety. Auxerrois Blanc is thought to have originated in Lorraine, rather than near Auxerre in the Yonne. Recent DNA fingerprinting suggests that it is a cross between Gouais blanc and Pinot noir, the same ancestry as Chardonnay. The name Auxerrois Blanc has actually been used as a synonym for Chardonnay in the Moselle region in France, which explains why there is also a longer name (Auxerrois Blanc de Laquenexy) for the grape variety. Although, it produces great wines on its own, especially when issued from "Vieilles Vignes", the "Auxerrois" grape is mostly blended into wines called "Pinot Blanc" (which may actually consist of Auxerrois Blanc, the variety Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir vinified white). It is also an important component of Crémant d'Alsace.

2009 Albert Mann Auxerrois Vieilles Vignes shows a bright, pale gold yellow color with white golden reflects on the rim. Discreet yet expressive, the nose is fresh and mineral with ripe and unripe white core fruit, peach, citrus and earthy tones complemented by floral, blossom hints. The palate is quite silky, oily or waxy, nicely filling, full of white core fruit, peach, grapefruit and unripe pineapple, with floral hints and loaded with enhancing minerality. It drinks like replenishing mountain spring water, with "fat", nutritive and needed mineral components. The finish is focus and long with great acidity, wet-stone minerality, fresh green almond and citrus peel notes.

Although not necessarily as complex and long as some of the Grand Crus from this estate, which is totally normal and it will be a mistake to compare it to them, this Auxerrois Vieilles Vignes is a beauty of a wine that is really enjoyable, mouth-coating and balanced. It surprisingly showed even better the next day (IMO). Versatile and easy-going, enjoy this wine on white fish and shellfish with sauce, or even poultry, veal or pork. Juicy and somewhat fruity, it also pair well with cheese.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from the winery website at www.albertmann.com, the importer website at www.weygandtmetzler.com and Wikipedia for the grape variety description at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auxerrois_Blanc

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

Short memories of Chile & Argentina and 2007 Luigi Bosca – Familia Arizu – Reserva Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Mendoza Argentina

Short memories of Chile & Argentina

Between the 20th of February and the 11th of March 2000, one of my best friends and I went on a trip to South-America; traveling to Chile and Argentina to visit both countries, experience both cultures and have a taste of their respective wines and food traditions. A magnificent journey of 20 days, backpacking, trekking and winery hopping to discover a fascinating world where mother Nature still prevail and human being can only be admirative and barely influence it.

We landed in Santiago, the capital of Chile, where we shortly stayed before beginning our expedition to the majestuous massif of "Torres del Paine". We took a plane from Santiago to Punta Arenas, where we ended up massively drunk and didn’t see much of the town, despite our good intentions to do so. It was without counting on our encounter with a funny French Canadian that we met in the first food joint that we could find. We started with beers to push the food down, but were taking off guard when he unveiled a magnum of Jack Daniels from his backpack. Franck and I are huge fan of J-D and the "Tavernier" let us drink it as long as we continued to order more beers.

Therefore, it happened to be early morning the next day, much sooner than we thought. And, running like wild animal in the maze of this little port-town, we nearly missed our minivan-bus which was about to drive us and a few other locals to Puerto Natales... where, in turn, we took a boat for a few hours, during which we couldn‘t stop contemplating the beauty of the surrounding mountainous landscape and the immense shattered glaciers breaking up huge blocks of ice into the Chilean fjords, drinking the local “Pisco” by the shots at the rear of the boat with the captain barely paying attention.

Fortunately, we were the only two persons on the boat, despite the captain and his mate (in the literal sense of the term of course, but also in the metaphorical sense too, because "Mate" also is a traditional South American infused drink, particularly in Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay, southern states of Brazil and south of Chile. But after the previous night and the Jack Daniels ambush in which we felt lamentably, "Pisco" seemed somewhat more appropriated than "Mate", while not necessary it felt like a proper continuation of our nocturnal impromptu celebration.

Once arrived in front of the magnificent, yet somewhat scary massif, proudly pointing its peaks like sharpened teeth towards the sky, we knew that we had only one choice: to trek as much as we could, about 8 to 10 hours a day, for the next 6-7 days, to complete the entire tour of the beast. It was amazing! We walked hours without seeing a soul, only surrounded by the mountain and its grandiose presence. It was even lonely and creepy at time, but majestic. We were sleeping in tent or in some of the refuges scattered along the way at night, sometimes washing ourselves in the river and drying our cloths by the bonfire some nights; and cooking our frugal meals in the flames, often climbing high into the deep marine blue sky alight by the incredible visible amount of stars.

It was really amazing and frightening at the same time, tiring and revealing too; yet what a tremendous personal achievement for the both of us. Full of unforgettable moments, momentum and memories of a place where Nature seems untouched and humans appear rather insignificant and powerless. I felt in love with this part of the world and both of us were somehow happy to go back to civilization, but also sad to leave such a magical and touching place.

We came back to Santiago and its surrounding to visit the city itself, where we were staying in a backpacker’s motel, but more especially some the wineries in Casablanca Valley, San Antonio Valley, Cachapoal Valley, Maipo Valley, Curico and Maule Valley. Some of the wines that we tasted and some of the appointments were organized by the importers and distributors that I used to work with when I was a Sommelier/Wine Buyer in London at the time. Amongst others, our first visit was Cousino Macul and since then it became sentimental between the wines from this particular winery and me.

At the time, their prestige cuvee, “Finis Terrae”, was one of the most expensive wines on the wine lists of the few restaurants, brasseries and grills that we tried during our stay. Therefore, we often decided to indulge ourselves with the most expensive and succulent piece of “bistec” (steak) served with "patatas fritas" and complemented it, of course, with a bottle of 1996 Finis Terrae, which was about 4,500 – 5,000 Chilean Pesos at the time, so let’s say 10,000 Chilean pesos of now, which is about $20...

After a few days spent in Chile, we decided to cross the Andes to go on the other side of the Chilean boundary, in the neighboring country called Argentina, to explore the myths and legends of the Malbec revolution in the wineries surrounding the town of Mendoza. It took us quite a few hours (at least 6 hours minimum by mountainous, treacherous roads between the two cities) to arrive at the top of the mountain where the customs’ baraquement of Las Cuevas didn’t offer much of a refuge against the freezing temperatures awaiting us at this altitude. It was warm and comfy in Santiago, but that wasn’t the case atop the Andes.

Of course, we only had a tee-shirt and a thin sweater on our skin, the rest was in our backpack; and the local police asked us to line-up against the wall like prisoner or more like condemned, in order to, at their pace and at 2 o’clock in the morning, verify our passport and our legality before we enter the Argentinean territory. After awhile, taking their time to search all of our backpacks, (imagine the time to check an entire bus full of tourists and locals), they let us through, while I smoked about a packet of cigarette, freezing to death for the last few hours (yeah, I used to smoke, I know, I know….).

Mendoza was rather small compared to what I was trying to picture looking at the travel brochures and guides. The center of the town was obviously the main interest, a huge square surrounded by low rise building, with restaurants and boutiques. We didn't spend much time there. We rented a car and went on the winery road towards the southwest at the foothills of the Andes. In 3-4 days, we visited quite a few of the most well-known wineries at the time, including Bodega Norton which was probably the most memorable (at the time) and many others.

What really stroked me the most, despite the beauty of the landscape and the "paysages", was the enormous size of the cement/concrete vats that we discovered in some wineries. Although not in use anymore, one of them was the size of a large 3 or 4 bedrooms apartment, a huge circular concrete vat maintain by multiple pillars that could contain thousands of hectoliters. We were about 20 tourists regrouped inside with the guide and there was still room a lot more people. Unfortunately, I do not remeber the name of the winery, but it was colossal. The winery itself without counting the surrounding vineyards, extended on 10 hectares above and underground. It was huge. I have seen many wineries in my lifetime, but never one that monstrous. (I will try to find the name soon).

One of the most funny moment that we had in Argentina was on the road to the no-man's land: La Pampa. If you drive south of Mendoza from Lujan de Cuyo to San Rafael, (I don't remember if it was in the village of Lujan de Cuyo itself, or in one of the next two tiny villages of Agrelo or Ugarteche); however, at the southern end of one of those "bourgs", you explicitly get a sense of getting close to the no-man's land, in other term "La Pampa", because at the exit of a tiny gas station, a huge billboard acknowledges you that you should fill up the tank of your vehicle, because you won't able to do it for the next 175 kilometers.

We then lost ourselves our the Route 40 and Route 143 for a few hours of pure desolation, rocks and cactus, not a soul and no houses or villages for kilometers. Only the mountains in the far to draw the limit of the horizon and in front of you an endless straight road to nowhere. However, about in the middle, we managed to see one hitchhiker walking alone on the side of the road, in the dirt and the rocks, trying to get a ride. We hesitated but didn't stop... shame on us, I know. But what would you have done? He was alone, in a lunar landscape, walking from nowhere to go God knows where, and may be he just had been abducted.... who knows? It was a bit creepy....

Anyhow, I would love to continue to detail our adventure, but it will be rather too long for this post. However, here again, just writing about this trip in Chile and Argentina brings back a lot of memories and unforgettable moments, that I wish I could have the time to share with you. As a result of visiting Mendoza and its surrounding wineries, I once again felt in Love, this time with Argentina, the breathtaking beauty of its picturesque panoramas, and obviously its steak and its wines.

That is why, in memory of that trip, I would like to share with you one of these Malbec wines from one of the Argentinean wineries that I like the most and that I have been selling for quite some time now.

Bodega Luigi Bosca – Familia Arizu – Lujan de Cuyo Mendoza Argentina

Bodegas Luigi Bosca – Familia Arizu – is a story of a legacy and an expertise gained over many years; the story of a name, of a family and their winery; of men who succeeded in conquering virgin soil and in gathering its best fruit.

It is the story of a profound understanding of wine and of the constant evolution of all its process. The first Arizu was Leoncio, who at the end of the 19th century, left his homeland of Navarra (Spain), to come to the Andes, where he was greeted by a young but promising business: vine grower. The first years went by, and the native vines gave way to the ones brought from Europe which, slowly, grew older and stronger until they became unique and completely adapted to this new Argentinean ground. Four generations have passed since the time of those early viticulturists and their revolutionary concept of winemaking.

From the time the Bodega started to make a name for itself on the international market in the late 1990s up until now, Luigi Bosca winery has always remain consistent in quality and avant-gardist in attitude and profile; mixing the savoir-faire and traditional ways of the old generations with the newest techniques to produce structured and textured gems, resulting from generations of experienced winemakers who are always striving for excellence.

Somewhat modern and fruit forward, these attractive and expressive wines do not lack of character or Terroir expressions. On the contrary, over the last decade, they have been recognized as some of the best and most consistent amongst all the Argentinean wines exported in the major wine market like New York and London. They pretty much stand out all around the world in Wine & Spirits boutiques and regarded restaurants.


The winery produces three distinct lines:

• "Finca La Linda": a line expressing flavor, varietal character and fruit in approachable, wallet friendly and versatile wines, in a wide range of varietals: unoaked chardonnay, viognier, Torrontes, Malbec rose, Bonarda, Syrah, Tempranillo, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and even Extra Brut sparkling.

• "Selectos de Familia Arizu": a line demonstrating the quintessence of Luigi Bosca wines: modernity, innovation, passion and pure Terroir character. It encompasses three different labels: “Gala Collection” (Galla 1, 2 & 3) 3 delightful wines superbly crafted; Boheme Methodo Traditional, their fancy sparkling wine which can easily rival some of the most well-known French Champagnes in the $30-$35 price range. And, in my opinion, their best wine called “Luigi Bosca Malbec Single Vineyard D.O.C”; the only wine in Argentina that can claim to come from a single vineyard recognized as a “Denominación de Origen Controlada” due to its unique Terroir characteristics.

• The third line is “Luigi Bosca Reserva” which represents the quality, prestige and identity of the wines, the winery and the devoted passion of the men and women behind it. This line also comes in large range of varietal: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Extra brut sparkling and of course the irreplaceable pride of Argentina: Malbec.

2007 Luigi Bosca Reserva Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Mendoza Argentina
Suggested retail price $16-$19
Imported/distributed by Testa Wines of the World Ltd. In NYC

This wine was crafted with carefully selected and sorted 100% Malbec grapes from low yielding vines planted at Vistalba vineyard in Lujan de Cuyo, an area south-southwest of the city of Mendoza, with an altitude of 960 meters, in the foothills of the Andes. The climate is dry with very cold winters, temperate springs and fresh summers. The clouds from the Pacific Ocean rarely pass above the Andes and usually remain on the Chilean side, transforming the mountain in natural barrier against the rain; yet because of the high elevation, there are big thermal temperature changes between night and day. Average summer temperature: 22º C and average winter temperature: 6º C. Minimum winter temperature: -6º C. Average annual rainfall: 197 mm.

The shallow soil is mainly composed of alluvial, clay and abundant limestone resting on subsoil of stone and pebbles, which generate good drainage. Mainly planted on a plateau, the inclination of the vineyard is only about 1.5% west-east and 1% south-north.

2007 was a great vintage in Argentina and so far I can say that most of the Argentinean wines that I tasted from this particular vintage were mostly very good to excellent. We recently received the 2007 Luigi Bosca Reserve and Single Vineyard D.O.C and both really exceeded my expectation for being focus, rich, complex and long. Although I prefer the Single Vineyard D.O.C, I still found it too young and not tamed enough, it will definitely last for quite some time. It has great potential.

Aged for 12 months in French oak casks and only lightly filtered before bottling which enable to keep the maximum of natural and essential components and confer it more ageing potential, 2007 Luigi Bosca Reserva Malbec Lujan de Cuyo was more open and approachable now after about half an hour in a decanter. It presented a fairly intense, bright yet dark ruby color with purple reflects on the rim, sign of youth. The nose offered expressive classic Malbec aromas of dark fruit, earth, spices, coffee, ripe plum, violets and purple flowers, with hints of mineral and subdued oak notes. The medium-to-full palate was focused, balanced, well rounded and fairly soft yet rich, complex and earthy, with enhancing acidity and integrated tannins. The lingering finish is quite juicy and structured, making this textured wine a pleasurable drink to pair with earthy, substantial dishes like stewed, roasted or grilled red meat, venison, game and hard cheese.

A true classic, elegant and gutsy Malbec that brought multiple memories of my trip to Argentina back in my memory. Cheers to my oldest friend Franck! without whom this trip will have never happened in the first place, if it wasn’t for his determination and methodical organization.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from the winery website at www.luigibosca.com.ar and from the importer website at www.testawines.info

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

2007 Fontezoppa Vardo Colli Maceratesi Rosso Marche Italy

Azienda Agroforestale Fontezoppa Civitanova Marche Italy

Nestled in the central eastern coastal region of Italy known as “Le Marche”, Azienda Agroforestale FONTEZOPPA is located in the outskirt of Civitanova, a commune facing the Adriatic Sea, about 46 kilometers southwest of Ancona and about 52 kilometers east of Serrapetrona.

The owner/winemaker Giovanni Basso, benefiting from 20 years of experience as a grower, continues to produce harmonious, earthy wines of traditional character with the upmost respect for the environment.

The vineyards are located in the hilly province of Macerata, some on the hills’ slopes surrounding the town of Serrapetrona, a stone throw from San Severino, and some close to Civitanova, both areas considered to be some of the best spots to grow grapes in the Marche region.

The 25-year-old vines grow between 500-600 meters above sea level, benefiting from the cool sea breeze of the nearby Adriatic Sea, resulting in great balance and freshness, even for the reds. Fontezoppa vineyards are planted with classic grapes like Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, but also more indigenous grapes like Lacrima, Maceratino, Incrocio Bruni (a rare crossing of Verdicchio and Sauvignon) and Pecorino.

Fontezoppa produces about 15 different wines and a grappa. The 4 wines available in New York (through SoilAir Selection) are crafted mainly with Verdicchio for the white and predominantly with Sangiovese complemented by Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot for the reds.

• Verdicchio di Matelica: a clean, refreshing and versatile white made of 100% Verdicchio grapes vinified in stainless steel tank white.

• Marche Rosso I.G.T: a juicy red made of 40% Sangiovese, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot from younger vines, also vinified in stainless steel tank.

• “Falcotto” from Serrapetrona appellation: a great, full-bodied, earthy and spicy red made from the rather undiscovered Vernaccia Nera grape variety, a sibling of the more popular Vernaccia white. Vernaccia Nera is mainly planted in the Serrapetrona appellation where it is also used to produce sparkling red wines and Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol region where the resulting reds are light, earthy, spicy and mineral.

And the wine of today:


2007 Fontezoppa Vardo Colli Maceratesi Rosso Marche Italy
Suggested retail price $13-$16
Imported/distributed by SoilAir Selection in NYC

The vineyards used for “Vardo” are located in the Colli Maceratesi, a Denominazione di origine Controllata (DOC) producing some white wines under “Colli Maceratesi Bianco”, which comprise at least 80% of the Maceratino grape (also known as Montecchiese) with the remaining 20% from Trebbiano Toscano, Verdicchio, Malvasia and Chardonnay. Also some red wines under “Colli Maceratesi Rosso”, which must comprise at least 50% of the Sangiovese grape with the remaining 50% from Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Ciliegiolo, Lacrima Merlot and Montepulciano.

Vardo` is a blend of 60% Sangiovese and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon as the label indicates it; although the winery website says differently, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot, which I wouldn’t be surprised if the later corresponds to the real blend. The grapes were carefully harvested from vineyards consisting of 8 years old vines planted at about 150 meters above sea level, with North Eastern exposure to the sun. The fermentation occurred in stainless steel tank, where the wine also spent a resting period of 3 months, followed by a maturation period of 12 months in big 60 hectoliters used French oak casks to confer more complexity and structure to the wine without imparting the taste with too much toasted oak flavors. Then it was bottled with no filtration or fining to keep its texture and maximize the quality by preserving all essential components.

A blend of roughly 60% Sangiovese and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon from 25 years old vines, 2007 Fontezoppa Vardo` Colli Maceratesi Rosso shows a beautiful, bright ruby-garnet color of light to medium intensity, with slight mature brown prune reflects on the rime. Although quite expressive, the nose is moderately complex, offering enjoyable, yet dry earthy aromas of dark berries, spices and black fruits intermingled with hints of smoke, black earth, pencil shaving, graphite and other minerals. Light to medium bodied, the palate is rather dry, very earthy, mineral and crisp, characterized by intense, dry fruity spicy flavors and black fruit. Very well balanced, the palate is full yet not heavy, fairly complex and persistent with vegetal, slightly herbaceous notes mixed with dry earth and juicy black fruits. From the beginning, the acidity and the mineral procure focus, while the soft and supple tannins provide a tamed structure all along towards the lengthy peppery and herbal, spicy finish.

Definitely a food wine enhanced by its acidity and minerality, complemented by a lot of earthy components and spices. Decanting is highly recommended, and in my opinion the wine was even showing better the next day, it appeared more settled and put together. Drink it with earthy dishes like game, poultry and venison; also some aged cheeses. I love it. A steal under $15, for connoisseurs and amateurs of more cerebral wines, like me.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from the importer website at www.soilairselection.com and from the winery website at www.cantinefontezoppa.com

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

2011: Happy New Year! Bonne Année! Feliz Ano Nuevo!

I just changed the blog introduction picture, as I do occasionally, and you might have recognized it; if not, it is the upper right part of a painting by René Magritte "The Portrait" Brussels 1935 exposed at the Moma in New York (http://www.moma.org)

2011: Happy New Year! Bonne Année! Feliz Ano Nuevo!

Cheers! Happy New Year and Best Wishes to You All! With more wine discoveries and multiple other things to talk about!

The end of the year was fantastic for me because I became for the second time the father of a beautiful baby, this time an adorable little girl. I must say that 2011 begins really well with the arrival of my daughter, despite the fact that the world is a mess.

Money, politic, power, greed, hate, racism, corruption, despair, envy and religious beliefs, amongst many other things, seems to be the everyday fate of mankind these days. What a pity to destroy in such horrible ways such a wonderful world! Why can we try to find compromises and live more in harmony without killing, tricking and deceiving each other in daily nonsense wars, behaviors and attitudes toward each other?

Fortunately for us, optimistic believers, immoderate epicureans and insatiable gourmets (novices, amateurs and connoisseurs all included of course, like a big family), fervent lover of great food, wine, spirits, cigar, art, culture, geography, history and many other of the multiple and highly rewarding pleasures in Life, there are still plenty of beautiful and positive things to care about in this world that make us fight for a better future (more especially if you have kids).

Kids are amazing! Your parents gave birth to you and in turn you give birth too, completing a old circle of life that started millions of years ago. You created a being. A being that you will guide, supervise, influence and protect most of your life. A being that will most likely follow your example and imitate your ways and manners and habits and morals to a certain extend.

That being is innocent and didn't demanded to come to earth and live in such human misery and depravation. Therefore, as human, supposedly one of the most intelligent species on the planet, it is your goal and choice to do your best to act responsibly and respectfully toward your environment and other beings and livings, to preserve the harmony of nature and leave a better world for the next generation.

For all these reasons, for my kids and their future, I have to be and remain positive and do my best about upbringing them the best I can, by giving them as much love, respect and consideration as I can, as well as passing as my much of my knowledge, morals, values and interests.

Like my grand-parents and parents did for me, I will teach my kids to develop their attention to positive, concrete and constructive things that will lead them to live a better life and care for others, all things nature has to offer and the environment. Money may be somewhat important in our capitalist world, yet NO need to tell them that it is not the most essential thing in life, they will realize that by themselves.

They may be young, but I already began their apprenticeship: reading, counting, spelling, and finding solutions to all problems they may face is the base. Try in any circumstances to be optimistic and willing to always address a situation with reflection and intelligence; because there are so many kids around the world that may and will never have the chance (that my kids will have) to have a decent, educated life, not in luxury and profusion of unnecessary things but in the harmony of the family and the love and respect that we have for each-other.

Moreover, as a Sommelier, I also teach them the importance of discovering, discerning, smelling and tasting their food and drinks (fruit and vegetable juice for now, wine and spirits later on gradually) everywhere and everyday at home, at the supermarket or the green-market, at the restaurant or anywhere else. It is important that they understand from their young age the immense value of food and the chance that they have to be able to eat well and healthfully compared to so many other people around the world these days.

In the 1920-30s, we were only 2.5 billions on earth. After World War II and the consequence of the baby boom, we were about 4.5 billions. In the 80s, we were about 6 billions and in 2011, we are about 7 billions on earth.

That's a lot of people evolving in a difficult world market, with many obstacles and much less job possibilities and opportunities than ever before, due to the rapid evolution of the technologies; the globalization of interests and entertainments; and the diminution of real interactive and caring social behaviors due to the increase of virtual social self-awareness (everybody thinks that they (he or/and she) are super important and that the world should know everything they do and say...) and the lack of real interests from the youngest generations. World economy, recent climate changes and natural disasters didn't help either to bring hope for the future. Yet, we have to remain hopeful for the future, for our kids and the next generations to come. And our generation should be the one ringing the alarm bell and put a stop to all these nonsenses and start to rebuilt a solid base of hope and new ideas.

Hope come from positive attitude and desire to achieve better, for greater results and concrete ideas to develop other ideas and find solutions and move forward. Pointing at the various problems of the world is useless if we don't take action to resolve them. The agricultural world has already answered the distressed call from Mother Nature and started to change its ways. We have to follow its example.

Let's make 2011 a year of actions and decisions.

So Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship. Let's save our planet and ourselves by the same occasion, by taking meaningful actions.

There are many organizations and associations all around the world that have been created over the last 20-25+ years, to change our ways and make this world a better place: better wines, better food, better environment and decisions that will in the long term make the difference.

Here is a short random list of links for these highly recommended organizations, associations and other enterprises (a few that I could think about immediately amongst many others) that have been and still are willing to make a change for the good of our planet and help world collective consciousness to awake to find the right and most appropriated solutions. They need your full support to continue the fight for the right causes.

• www.unicef.org
• www.onepercentfortheplanet.org
• http://wwf.panda.org
• http://www.homethemovie.org/
• http://www.goodplanet.org/
• http://www.avaaz.org/
• www.greenpeace.org
• www.actionagainsthunger.org/
• www.actioncontrelafaim.org
• http://dsc.discovery.com/tv/planet-earth
• http://www.fairtrade.net/
• www.fairtradefederation.org
• http://planetgreen.discovery.com/
• www.tenthousandvillages.com
• disney.go.com/disneynature/
• http://www.nature.com/
• www.wfto.com
• www.globalexchangestore.org
• http://www.crossing-borders-fair-trade.com
• http://www.tinygreenbubble.com
• www.european-fair-trade-association.org
• www.unctad.org
• http://planetgreenrecycle.com
• www.planetrecycling.com
• http://planetsave.com/
• http://www.50waystohelp.com
• http://www.treehugger.com/
• http://www.nature.org/
• http://www.organic.org/
• http://www.organicconsumers.org
• http://www.globalissues.org
• http://www.biodynamics.com/
• http://www.demeter-usa.org
• http://www.bio-dynamie.org
• http://www.climatecrisis.net/
• http://www.twnside.org.sg/
• http://www.enda.sn
• http://www.forumtiersmonde.net
• http://www.plantabillion.org/
• http://www.poverty.com/
• http://www.wfp.org
• http://www.whyhunger.org/
• http://environment.nationalgeographic.com/environment/natural-disasters/
• http://www.epa.gov/climatechange/
• http://www.1billionhungry.org/
• http://www.jeanlouisetienne.com
• http://www.oceanfutures.org
• www.artisansdumonde.org
• www.commercequitable.org
• http://www.bestgreenblogs.com/
• http://www.wftday.org

This list is by no mean exhaustive and only represent a drop in the ocean of all the people that are trying to change the world and make it a better place with more collective consciousness and positive desires and innovative solutions. Yet, it will give you an idea and may invite you to observe nature and our world on a whole new different way. Let's make 2011 a year of actions and decisions.

"Tour du Monde épicurien des vins insolites"

Last but not least, I just finished a great french book, called "Tour du Monde épicurien des vins insolites" (around the epicurean world of unusual wines), about the tribulations of two wine aficionados, Claude Gilois (owner and wine buyer of http://www.vinsdumonde.com) and his friend and writter Ricardo Uztarroz (journalist for "Presse Océan", "Libération" then at "l'AFP" for about 25 years) in quest of finding and tasting wines in rather unusual countries.

This is a great read and a tremendously enjoyable journey to share with these two 60+ years old epicureans, avid of food adventures, wine discoveries and life experiences. The prose is exquisite, light and funny, pleasing and full of this old flair for loquacious and explicit scenarios, that only a writer-scenarist like Michel Audiard was capable of writing (I will highly recommend you to watch some of his classics: "Les Barbouzes", "Les Tontons Flingueurs", "Le President", "Le Cave se rebiffe", "Un singe en Hiver", etc...). Some of the quotes from Miquel de Cervantes as a sentence of introduction for each chapter also greatly introduce the sense of humor and the spirit of mind of these two uncommon wine travelers. A must read for those of you who understand French.

Think about it.... and as always, Enjoy!

See you soon for some new wine surprises and discoveries!

LeDom du Vin

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.