Saturday, March 12, 2011

Jean-Pierre Robinot: L'Opera des vins "Les Années Folles" (Jasnieres) Coteaux du Loir Vin de Table Natural Pétillant France


Jean-Pierre Robinot - Les Vignes de l'Angevin - Vins Naturels

Before he established the winery in 2002, for nearly 15 years, Jean-Pierre Robinot offered, to its customers, natural wines in his Paris wine bistro-restaurant called: "l'Ange Vin" (literally "Angel Wine", but more especially a play of words for the word "Angevin", which is the name of the local people from the Anjou region, or the town of Angers, capital of Anjou, like Jean-Pierre).

Fascinated by the natural wines in general and the Loire wines in particular, he returned to his native village
of "Chahaignes", located in the Sarthe, about 100 kilometers northeast of the city of Angers and 6.5 kilometers northwest of the village of "La Chartre sur le Loir", halfway between Le Mans and Tours, to establish a vineyard and craft natural wines from the "Vallée du Loir" (and no, this isn't a mistake).

Not to be mistaken with the "Vallée de la Loire", the "Vallée du Loir" is the valley formed by the banks of the "Loir" river, a tributary of the "Sarthe" river, taking its source west of Chartres, north of Illiers-Combray. The "Loir" joins the Sarthe river in Briollay, a village north of the city Angers, which in turn joins the Maine river that finally fall into the Loire.

The vineyards of the Loir Valley begins with the AOC Coteaux du Vendôme, through the AOC Jasnières ending with the AOC Coteaux du Loire. The production area consists now of 400 hectares, while many centuries ago, 5,000 hectares of vines were planted and used; but with time, some sites were abandoned and most others were mainly destroyed by the Phylloxera plague between 1860s and 1930s.

In 2002, he started to acquire quite a few plots of fallow lands in the appellation Coteaux du Loir, not planted over a century for some.
Within the first few years, and the intention to slowly and gradually build his Domaine and after a first clearing operation, it already planted two hectares of vines in the appellation Coteaux du Loir. It also took care of some other vines planted on AOC Jasnières and AOC Coteaux du Loir red. Now, he possesses about 10 hectares of lands on steep slopes, which include great Terroirs.

  • The objective he set for himself is ambitious: organic farming and natural winemaking and vinification processes, with yields limited to 25 / 30 hectoliters per hectare to obtain great complexity.
  • The ground is plowed, the plants are fed with natural composts and weeding chemicals are banned.
  • Vinification is done slowly, with almost no sulfur or without the addition of other products.
  • White wines from the Chenin grape are very gently pressed. They are aged on their lees in oak barrels for at least 12 months.
  • The red wines are from the Pineau d'Aunis grape variety. After a long fermentation, they finish their ageing on the lees in oak barrels for at least a year.

The resulting wines are very long and complex with great ageing potential, because of their great balance and structure. Yet, last updated by the end of 2009, the winery website doesn't do any favors to Jean-Pierre, in the sense that not all produced wines are represented on it. Hence, it is difficult to really realize how many wines he, in fact, produces. Only five appear on the website now (Lumiere de Silex, Jasnieres, Le Regard du Loir, Alter & Go, and Concerto d'Oniss), yet, "Les Années Folles" isn't there, "Symphonie du Temps"and "Cuvée Juliette Robinot" either.

In fact, there are a few more Cuvées than those; but it seems that it depends of the quality of the vintage and of his mood too. Jean-Pierre is definitely a personage, who makes great wines that need a bit more coverage. His grapes come from the different AOC(s) of the Vallée du Loir on which his vineyards are planted, yet they are mostly labeled Vin de Table or Vin de Pays due to the fact that his wines are so, ... somewhat atypical and certain of their features don't get along with the less generic AOC rules.


I will take a picture of the label when the wine will be at the store, because I forgot when I tasted it and the label for this particular wine changes depending on the vintage. To be completed soon.

2009 Jean-Pierre Robinot: L'Opera des vins "Les Années Folles" (Jasnieres) Coteaux du Loir Vin de Table Natural Pétillant France

Suggested retail price $16-$19
Imported / distributed by Zev Rovine selections in NYC

"Les Années Folles" is a natural "Pétillant" (lightly sparkling wine), made by Méthode Ancestrale, with disgorgement done by hand and no addition of dosage with sugar, just a refill of the bottles with the same wine, which makes it fairly dry. He makes about 160-200 cases at the most of this wines, depending of the vintage.

A blend of 80% Pineau d'Aunis and 20% Chenin Blanc from the AOC Jasnières, the light pinkish hue in the glass comes from minimal skin contact of the Pineau d'Aunis, a red grape variety, also locally known as "Chenin Noir", indigenous and predominantly grown in the Loire Valley, more especially in the Anjou and Touraine region.

Behind its medium light yellow-pinkish color, "Les Années Folles" (the crazy years) offers a funky nose where yeasty, farmy aromas intermingle with goat cheese, nutty, apple and yellow core fruit notes. The palate is much more attractive and inciting than the nose, which is definitely very interesting, yet could be slightly off putting at first, for some people. It presents freshness, great acidity, lovely balance and texture. Excellent in my opinion, this natural wine will surely generate mixed opinions, but it is worth trying and be surprised.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin,

Info taken, translated and edited from the winery website at http://lesvignesdelangevin.vinsnaturels.fr and from a discussion with Zev Rovine when he came to the store to taste us on a few wines from his portfolio.


Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

2008 Tierra de Viennae "Heluicum" & "Sotanum" Rhone Les Vins de Vienne (Cuilleron Villard, Gaillard and Villa) Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes

- Tierra de Viennae - Les Vins de Vienne -
- Cuilleron Villard, Gaillard & Villa -

Yves Cuilleron, Pierre Gaillard et François Villard, three of the most notorious wine producers of the northern Rhone Valley had a dream to offer a renaissance to the vineyards of Seyssuel, a small village at top northern part of the Rhone Valley, about 6.5 kilometers northwest of the town of Vienne, and about 13 kilometers north of Ampuis (the capital of "Cote Rotie").

They did it with passion and pleasure, and their dream came true when the adventure started in 1996, by first renting and restructuring some small parcels of land.

Vienne was even "Roman" before the Roman conquest of Gaul by Julius Caesar. It was the capital of one of the provinces of Septimania, which only became French in the thirteenth century. The Roman Viennoise county extended from Lake Geneva to the door of the city of Arles on a wide area. The inhabitants of the city of Vienne enjoyed significant privileges and had access the highest offices of the Empire. They were exempt from paying the tax. When a bridge was built, the city lies on both banks of the Rhone. The poet Martial (1st century) called the city then, "Vienne-la-belle".

The Vienne area wine’s fame dates from the time of the Empire Roman. In his writings, Pline l’Ancien (the Elder) indicates that one planting to black grape called Vitis Allobrogica, grown on the territory of Vienne, and gave three crus: Sotanum, Taburnum and Heluicum, according to the soil and the vineyards.

Remaining very popular until the late nineteenth century, Seyssuel vineyards suffered greatly during the war of religion in the 16th Century, then the vineyards were resurrected and expanded (120 hectares/ 296.5 acres of vines in 1820) until their total destruction by phylloxera in the 1890s.

Only a small part was replanted during the 20th Century due to the difficulty of its hilly terrain, impossible for mechanical cultivation, the vineyards of Seyssuel. The hillside or “Coteaux” were left, abandoned until 1996, despite many tentative of restoring and restructuring prior Cuilleron, Gaillard and Villard.

Yves Cuilleron, Pierre Gaillard et François Villard count amongst the pioneer that emphasized the rebirth of the northern Rhone in the 1980s. Three winemakers, three different approach of winemaking. Les Vin de Vienne succeeded this alchemy: fusion the sensibility of the three in one efficient team spirit. The collective commitment to produce high quality Vin de Vienne comes naturally from the combination of each producer's skill and experience. They literally revived the popularity of the Vins de Vienne.

To complete their adventure, grow their portfolio and add another point of view and winemaking skills, they introduced recently the name of a fourth person on their label, which is quite justified because he is the proprietor of the estate at Seyssuel. The fourth crony, like the 3 musketeers that were four, Pierre-Jean Villa joined them in 2003 and now runs the domain.

They now produce about 30+ wines from various Rhone appellations, divided in 4 categories:
  • Vin de Propriété: Estate wines, from the estate in Seyssuel, which include "Heluicum" and "Sotanum"
  • Les Archeveques: parcels selection in specific vineyards.
  • L'Amphore d'Or: structured wines with good ageing potential
  • L'Amphore d'Argent: easier wines with good fruit expression for everyday

Christian Dalbavie make me taste two of them "Heluicum" and "Sotanum", and I found them both extremely well crafted and like to share them with you.



2008 Tierra de Viennae "Heluicum" Rhone Valley Les Vins de Vienne (Cuilleron Villard, Gaillard and Villa) Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes
Suggested retail price $32-$35
Imported / distributed by Christian Dalbavie via Domaine Select in NYC

The name Heluicum is in reference to Helios, the sun in Greek mythology.

Crafted from 10 years old vines planted on hillsides, 100% Syrah from the Northern Rhone Valley, "Heluicum" is one of the various wines produced by a joint venture from Northern Rhone most notorious Master winemakers: Yves Cuilleron, Pierre Gaillard et François Villard, and Pierre-Jean Villa. The vineyards are under sustainable, organic methods. The soil is predominantly composed of schist stones with quartzite and micaceous shale, which confers great minerality to the wines. Fermentation occurred with natural yeasts, with pigeage and remontage. Then the wine was aged for 16 months in French oak barrels.

A superb wine, 2008 Tierra de Viennae "Heluicum" shows deep ruby-garnet color. The nose expresses lovely, earthy aromas of cassis, black berry, garrigues, violet and pepper. Extremely well crafted, the palate is juicy, a touch spicy, with high acidity and great balance and focus. Flavors of cassis, violet, and garrigues gently evolve and expand with even more earthy, floral and ripe berry fruit notes, toward the long, seamless, earthy, soil oriented, juicy finish. $40 may appear a bit high to spend in this economy, but for a wine of such quality, it is definitely worth it. I love it.

Small quantities, old vines and organic are three factors that account for the price. However, even if I am the king of under $15, and if I usually prefer to ambush wines under $20, sometimes it is good to Indulge a little and fall into a surprising ambuscade like this one.




2008 Tierra de Viennae "Sotanum" Rhone Valley Les Vins de Vienne (Cuilleron Villard, Gaillard and Villa) Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes
Suggested retail price $52-$55
Imported / distributed by Christian Dalbavie via Domaine Select in NYC

The name Sotanum is a reference to the beneficial properties of the brew which used to be produced on these slopes

Crafted from 15 years old vines planted on hillsides, 100% Syrah from the Northern Rhone Valley, "Sotanum" is one of the various wines produced by a joint venture from Northern Rhone most notorious Master winemakers: Yves Cuilleron, Pierre Gaillard et François Villard, and Pierre-Jean Villa. The vineyards are under sustainable, organic methods. The soil is predominantly composed of schist stones with quartzite and micaceous shale, which confers great minerality to the wines. Fermentation occurred with natural yeasts, with pigeage and remontage. Then the wine was aged for 16 months in French oak barrels.

Also excellent yet more expensive, 2008 Tierra de Viennae "Sotanum" presents a medium ruby robe, with bright reflects. When tasted, the nose was somewhat restraint, less expressive and lighter than the previous wine, may be a bit close at the moment; yet, it didn't mean anything because, on the palate, it was boasting more complexity, length and depth. With similar mouthful attitude and flavors profile than Heluicum, it is a better wine, more refined and integrated, showing more inciting features yet with less primary fruit flavors. Somewhat more cerebral, less youthful, vibrant and friendly than Heluicum. Food friendly, this wine needs a good hour of decanting and will pair well with hearty dishes.


Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from the winery website at http://www.vinsdevienne.com/ and from the importer website http://www.domaineselect.com/


Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

Friday, March 11, 2011

Domaine de Matignon Anjou Rouge Loire Valley France

Domaine de Matignon Anjou Rouge Loire Valley France

Dominique Simon, ex-Sommelier of Bouley restaurant and owner of The Wine List (a New York Boutique wine importer/distributor), is a rather discreet guy, who always brings me well crafted, authentic wines from small, artisanal producers. And recently, he passed by with a producer from Anjou, Yves Matignon and his daughter Lucile, who were visiting New York for the time.

Sister and brother, Hélène and Yves Matignon are the owners of Domaine Matignon, a small estate in Anjou, nestled in Martigné-Briand, a small village about 33 kilometers south of Angers, the capital of the Anjou region, and about 30 kilometers west of Saumur, on the southern bank of the Loire River.

Domaine Matignon has been a family-run estate for the past 3 generations. It covers 38 hectares of vineyards planted on diverse types of soil and Terroir. All work in the vineyard and the cellar is done under sustainable culture system, or "lutte raisonnée". Driven by the same passion, Hélène and Yves Matignon do everything themselves. All their wines are grown, produced and nurtured naturally at the property by their own care.

They produce about 10 wines:
  • White: Anjou Blanc, Coteaux du Layon, Chardonnay, Saumur Méthode Traditionnelle and Sauvignon
  • Rosé: Carbernet d'Anjou, Rosé de Loire
  • Rouge: Anjou Rouge, Anjou Villages and Rouge Plaisir

We tasted 3 of their wines:



2008 Domaine de Matignon Anjou Rouge Loire Valley France
Suggested retail price $10-$13
Imported / distributed by The Wine List in NYC

Made with 100% Cabernet Franc vinified in stainless steel tank, 2008 Domaine Matignon Anjou Rouge is very soft, elegant, with great acidity, lovely texture and balance. Following the fresh red fruit aromas of the nose, similar flavors gently expand toward the earthy, smoky finish. Nicely made. A solid and reliable, juicy Anjou rouge at $12, to drink young, within the next 2-3 years after bottling, and to pair with pretty much everything.

One may find trace of green and vegetal hints, which are classic, Terroir oriented characteristics of Loire Valley reds, especially when partly or fully crafted with Cabernet Franc or Grolleau. They are not defaults, but add crispiness and raciness to the overall profile of the wine; especially when combined with high, integrated and focus acidity, which nicely enhances the fruit and is definitely wanted.




2004 Domaine de Matignon Anjou Villages Rouge Loire Valley France
Suggested retail price $16-$18
Imported / distributed by The Wine List in NYC

Also made from 100% Cabernet Franc, yet from older vines, Anjou Villages is generally a wine of choice with very good ageing potential (7-10 years after bottling). And this one is no exception to the rule. Robust, structured and harmonious, after fermentation, it was aged at least for 9 months in oak vats or barrels (en fût de chêne).

Despite a certain age, the 2004 Domaine de Matignon Anjou Villages Rouge has a youthful attitude and profile, offering lovely texture and structure maintaining the wine toward a fairly long finish. The nose and palate, despite the fruit flavors, also have green and vegetal notes and nuances, like asparagus and green pepper, but nothing off putting or surprising for red Loire Valley drinkers, and very typical to Cabernet Franc. I found it excellent and still quite young and vibrant despite its age.

Another proof that, atop the quality and maturity of the fruit, acidity and tannins are key components to the longevity and ageing potential of a wine. Fuller and more complex than the regular Anjou Rouge, served at room temperature (14/15 ° Celsius), it will go wonderfully with red meats, game and cheeses.


We also tasted the 2009 Anjou Rouge, but I found it too young and somewhat astringent for now, aside of the good ripeness of the fruit conferred by the quality of this particular vintage.

Thank you Yves and Lucile (and Hélène) for your visit and thank you for your wines. Keep up the good job!

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

For more info go to winery website at http://www.domaine-matignon.fr

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

2009 Vigneti Massa Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi DOC White Piedmont Italy (Organic - Sustainable)

Last week, my rep. from Metropolis Wines came with a few organic, natural wines, including 3 that I really loved and bought on site. One was from the Loire, the other from Buzet and the last one was a white from Piedmont. Each of them will have their post, but let’s start with the white from Piedmont, which was intriguing yet really, really good.


2009 Vigneti Massa Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi DOC White Piedmont Italy (Organic - Sustainable)

At first, I didn’t pay so much attention to the label; I was just trying the wine based on the fact that it was from Piedmont, which happens to be my favorite Italian wine region.

Piedmont is surrounded to the north by the Alps, and overlooked by 2 mounts: Monviso (Mont Vis), where the Po rises, and Monte Rosa. The region borders France to the west, Valley d’Aosta to the northwest, Switzerland to the north and the Italian regions of Lombardy to the east, Liguria to the south, and a very small fragment with Emilia Romagna to the southeast. The geography of Piedmont is nearly half mountainous, along with extensive areas of hills and plains. Most produced wines, whether red or white or rose, are usually earthy and Terroir driven, expressive, traditional and complex with a good dose of minerality, due the prominent mountainous rocky soil.

So far, nothing abnormal or unusual, yet I had to look more closely at the label. Something intriguing caught my eyes: Derthona Timorasso? What was that? Never heard or taste it before.

"Derthona"? Despite the fact that it is the name of this wine and the regional dialect name for “Tortona”, “Derthona” is also the name of the local football club of Tortona, a little town of Piedmont nearby to where the wine also come from, which gave the eponymous name of “Colli Tortonesi” to the hilly region surrounding it and also the DOC name (Denominazione di Origine Controllata), in the province of Alessandria, about 30 kilometers north of Gavi and 60 kilometers east of Asti.

"Timorasso"? You probably rarely heard of it because it is not wildly planted, but “Timorasso” is a local, indigenous white grape variety from Piedmont, producing fresh, crisp, complex and rich, Terroir oriented whites of great minerality and acidity (and sometimes of high alcohol content). Usually fatter than Arneis and Cortese, the resulting whites (made from Timorasso) have a somewhat similar profile, in term of texture and way of coating the palate, to Falanghina or Greco, both grapes usually expressing the complexity of the volcanic soil of Campania. Do not worry if you never heard of Timorasso, because, while France counts about 50 different grape varieties, it is said that Italy counts about 2,000, including about 30 in Piedmont alone. Many being indigenous and unheard of outside the boot!

Now that I had a better picture of the wine, the grape and where it came from, something else intrigued me. Between the word “Derthona” and “Timorasso” lay the words: “un territorio, un vino, in vitigno”, which literally translate by: “one Terroir, one Wine, one Vine” (or in French: “un territoire (ou Terroir), un vin, une vigne”). It could have been the ego of the producer to show certain uniqueness, but after investigating and asked a few question to my rep., I realized that it was more to his pride that these words were referring to. Let me explain.

"Timorasso" was an endangered specie of a grape variety, that would have vanished from the Colli Tortonesi, if it wasn’t for the tenacity and determination of Walter Massa, the owner of Vigneti Massa, who clearly believed in the tremendous potential of this grape variety, which about a decade ago was on the edge of extinction, with only a few hectares remaining. Yet, alone and against all odds, he continued to produce it, until it was once rediscovered a few years ago and started to have a new following on the export market (UK and USA predominantly).

That is why he is so proud to mention on his label “one Terroir, one Wine, one Vine”, because without him and his remaining vineyard, you will not even be able to taste this delightful white from this amazing grape variety. This is his baby, and one can literally say that he is the father of the renaissance of this Sommelier and gourmet sensation, which have, over the last few years, received many accolades and acclaims from connoisseurs, amateurs and critics around the world.

Vigneti Massa is located in the abandoned hill top town of Monleale Alto, perched at around 200-300 meters, in the Colli Tortonesi, about 10 kilometers east of Tortona. Walter Massa, producer and winemaker extraordinaire, inherited the family knowledge and skills, which have been inculcate from one generation to the next since 1879. Despite his unique white made from Timorasso, Walter also craft some reds with the local grapes: Croatina, Barbera, Freisa and Nebbiolo. Four of his wines are available in the US market.

I invite you to go to the importer website for more info at http://www.portovinoitaliano.com/wineshop/producers/vigneti-massa




2009 Vigneti Massa Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi DOC White Piedmont Italy (Organic - Sustainable)
Suggested retail price $24-$27
Imported by Porto Vino Italian wines / distributed by Metropolis Wines in NYC

Made from 100% Timorasso grapes grown organically on clay and calcareous soil, from predominately two parcels on gentle hill slope: “Costa del Vento”, 1,5 hectares, western exposure, clay and calcareous soil, and “Costolio”, 0.5 hectares, southern exposure, calcareous soil. Vinified with native yeasts. Maceration press 48-60 hours; fermentation 18-22 °C; batonnage; minimum 6 months bottle aging before released on market. Light filtration.

2009 Vigneti Massa Derthona Timorasso shows a pale, yellow color. The nose is fresh and inviting with expressive aromas of blossom, peach skin and yellow fruit, mingled with herbal, floral touches and mineral nuances. The palate is also fresh, clean, and fat without being heavy, rich, complex, yet well balanced and lush, with great acidity. Inciting flavors of yellow apple, pear and citrus expand nicely toward the very long, mineral, spicy, peppery finish. It even shows good ageing potential. I will not speculate for too long, but it will definitely hold on tight for the next 2-3 years, may be 5. I love it.

Highly recommended. Serve it chilled but not cold on hearty dishes based with fish, white meat, game and poultry.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

Thursday, March 10, 2011

NV Suzuki Shuzouten Brewery Hideyoshi "La Chamte" sparkling Sake (280ml)






To follow from my previous post on Sake, here is a new Hideyoshi Sake, sparkling this time, which should arrive at the store very soon. It was introduce to me at the last visit of Linda Noel Kawabata and Mr. Naoki Suzuki, owner and 19th heir of the Suzuki family, founders of Suzuki Shuzouten Brewery Hideyoshi Brand, in the Akita region, northern Japan.



Surely one my favorite Sake brewery, amongst all the ones that I tasted lately. And with that sparkling Sake, Mr. Suzuki and Hideyoshi did it again. They succeeded to craft a really enjoyable, versatile and seamlessly good sparkling Sake.



NV Suzuki Shuzouten Brewery Hideyoshi "La Chamte" sparkling Sake (280ml)
Suggested retail price (to be confirmed on arrival when in stock at the store, supposedly by the middle or the end of March)
Imported/distributed by ASPEC (Akita Sake Promotion and Export Council) thru Winebow, Inc. in NYC

Rice: 100% Akita Komachi
Polishing off: 65%
Alcohol content: 8%
Profile: Off-dry
Bottle size: 280ml

Pale, clear, yellow-greenish color with tiny multiples, delicate bubbles. Rather fresh, the nose boasts yeasty, slightly farmy aromas of hay, chamomile, wheat and nut mingled with mineral notes. Somewhat quite different from the nose, yet friendly and really enjoyable, (almost dangerous, it's so good!), the fragrant palate is young, fresh, delicate, light and fruity. It offers mineral, peachy tones in a fresh, balanced, harmonious, gentle profile up until the end. I love it.

For those of you that may remain skeptical after sniffing it the first time, know that the yeasty nose give way to a charming, rather simple yet extremely enjoyable and palatable drinks. It is too easy to drink, you will surely finish the bottle without realizing it. Highly recommended, drink this sparkling Sake, chilled, as a refreshment by the end of the afternoon or/ and as an aperitif.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

For more info about Suzuki Shuzouten Brewery Hideyoshi Brand you can read my last post at http://www.ledomduvin.com/2011/03/little-introduction-to-sake-japanese.html and you can also go to ASPEC (Akita Sake Promotion and Export Council) website at www.aspec-sake.com

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

Sunday, March 6, 2011

A little introduction to Sake: the Japanese wine!





A little introduction to Sake: the Japanese wine!


Sake!

Did you ever taste Sake? No? Well, not many of us have, but it is more for lack of knowledge and tasting rather than dislike. Yet, although many of us can’t really explain why, Sake has recently become some sort of phenomenon in the western world. May be, it is a manner for occidentals to quiet down their ever-active-and fast-paced life-style by finding inspiration elsewhere and discover something to bright up their monotone daily routine. Like a desperate cry to express their profound desire and aspiration to a new life style, somehow a mode of tasting and embracing the peaceful Japanese philosophy and art of living and reproducing it their own way at home.

For me, up until only a few years ago, I admit that I wasn’t really acquainted with Sake. To tell you the truth, the previous store where I used to work didn’t have any. And even during my years as restaurant’s Sommelier, I rarely came across a lot of Sake(s). Most restaurants that I knew didn’t offer any until very recently. And despite the fact that it has existed for centuries, it remains a fairly undiscovered beverage for most western people.

In fact, if I recall my own history with Sake, I pretty much tasted my first one about 4-5 years ago and finally realized how many types existed and how different they were only about 3 years ago. My first experience with Sake started dubitatively with a “Junmai Ginjo”, which I loved on site by the way, and since then my interest has tremendously grown in all the different styles and types. I love them all, except may be “Nigori”, because they are usually unfiltered and milky… not really my thing, (even if I buy some for my customers).

Like wine, Sake has become somewhat of a growing passion for me. The more I learn about it and how it has always been part of the Japanese traditional life style and culture, the bigger my interest grows. And I’m not the only one.

With the latest catastrophic climate changes, (and I’m not only talking about the weather but also the world’s mood over the last decade), mankind wants to close its eyes and continue to live without thinking of these bad times, yet it suffers from them everywhere. Therefore, it is interesting to notice the recent surge for occidental people’s inevitable attraction for the enviable research of Peace and Harmony in all element contained in Asian culture in general (Chinese’s Feng Shui, Indian and Tibetan and other form of Buddhism, Yoga, etc…).

Meanwhile, it is important to say that, everywhere in the world and despite the horrific news, there is also a recrudescence of concern and interest for Nature, like a slowly awaking social consciousness and therefore, amongst other things, a come back to more natural and traditional methods and systems of life, more especially agriculture: sustainable, organic, biodynamic, natural, etc…

Yet lately, with the importance of restful, minimalist designs and quiet home life style to contrast with our everyday stressful routine dictated by technology and omnipresent ever-busy forced schedule, the Occident has turn its eyes on Japanese’s life style, peaceful and reenergizing interior and garden designs, Manga(s), cars, fashion, respect of Nature, ancient traditions, culture, sense of honor, respect in general, politeness, ancestral hosting abilities, tea ceremony and Sake (and more).

Overall and surely for our need to look at something else than our own misery, we have come to realize how far, yet how attractive and inspiring, Japanese designs, ideology, food and culture are from the western world. Therefore, atop of reiterating Japanese interior and garden designs, we also have embraced their love for this traditional beverage made entirely with rice, yet considered by most connoisseurs and amateurs as Japanese Wine.

By now, with all that has been written about it over the last few years, don’t tell me that you haven’t heard and read about Japan and its various Sake(s)!

If you did that’s great and it means that somehow you welcome trends and keep an open mind, may be you also have adopted a new life style lately and incorporated some Japanese notions into it. But, if you didn’t, that is not a problem, because I will in this post briefly open your eyes on certain aspect of the Japanese world and more especially describe some of the most enjoyable Sake(s) that I bought recently. But first we need to talk a bit about Japan, few more words about Japanese philosophy, design and other facts, and a lot about one particular Sake house on which I have been focusing on with great interest since last year: Hideyoshi.





Nisshoki (literally, Rising-Sun Flag) was adopted as Japan's national flag in 1870. It also is called Hinomaru (literally, Disk of the Sun) and Nihon no Kokki (Flag of Japan). The red circle represents the sun.

Brief words on Japan art of Life


Contemporary Japan is a secular society. Creating harmonious relations with others through reciprocity and the fulfillment of social obligations are more significant for most Japanese than an individual's relationship to a transcendent God. Harmony, order, and self-development are three of the most important values that underlie Japanese social interaction. Basic ideas about self and the nature of human society are drawn from several religious and philosophical traditions. Religious practice, too, emphasizes the maintenance of harmonious relations with others (both spiritual beings and other humans) and the fulfillment of social obligations as a member of a family and a community.

You see, and this is probably why western people are so fascinated by the far Eastern world, the “Land of the rising Sun” inhabitants have believed for centuries that balance in the universe is the essence of everything, and Japanese life style and way of doing things (dressing, cooking, meditating, etc…) and decorating interior spaces and gardens truly express that concept.

For example, in Japan but also in Japanese-interior-design inspired homes and apartments in general, the underlying design feature of a room or series of rooms is mostly dictated by the Japanese fixation on simplicity and approach to flowing interior design. Everything needs to be in harmony to create a practical and enjoyable living environment, rather than a place where conflicts between furniture, colors and useless, inadequate and untidy objects will render an unhealthy image of yourself and your way of living… (Ringing the bell? Might as well take another look in your house…).

Furniture placement and display follows prescribed rules of fluidity. In contrast to our occidental ways of decorating a room by filling it with various and abundant objects and furniture arranged on its perimeter, creating traffic patterns crossing the center, Japanese minimalist design establishes a focal point toward the center with little obstructing free visual flow and physical movement about the perimeter, concentrating the main interest of a room to a rather unique and simplistic focal point (like a bed with barely nothing around, an arranged pattern of sofas and complementing armchairs, etc…).

Another example is “doors”. Western world doors are often useless and annoying, more secure may be, when talking about doors (or windows) leading outside, but less practical and definitely less respectful of the environment and the fluidity of a room. Inside, when you open a door, you may not notice it because you are used to it and doesn’t bother you. Yet, in Japan, it usually breaks the pattern and flowing energy of the room, which is why, by tradition, Japanese doors slide on the side and often integrate the wall, opening flowingly the space and allowing harmony and energy between the rooms and/or the outside without unwanted breaks or visual annoyances.

Serenity cannot be achieved where there is clutter, therefore it is important to keep the lines and appointments of these focal points cleanly defined. All things in the room must become an element in the overall scheme of the room; as it is very important that all things in life must reflect peacefulness, harmony and integrity, without hitches and other annoyances. If you come to understand Japanese minimalism, then you will learn your personal lesson how less really can mean more, and how fluidity and harmony in your home and organized, active life marked with restful and beneficial habits can bring peace to your life and way of living.

Japanese home’s layout is very important but colors also are very important. Let’s take for example black and white, two often forgotten colors in our western world, yet extremely important in eastern Asian culture. When choosing strong or deep colors, don’t let them stand in the way of the architecture, structure and layout of the room; use them to emphasize an object or a piece of furniture. White and other neutrals, like off white and cream, will help you imply orderliness and cleanness, and colorful objects will suddenly come into view. Pretty distinctive and classic, yet rarely considered by most designers, when put to a good use, Black is usually defining and underlining forms and aligning structural geometry. In short, White(s) bring light, clean positive energy and the possibility to play with flowing nuances and colors. And that said, Black doesn’t clash; it defines.

The most beautiful and complex things in life are usually not the most complicated or busy, they are not the ones that show everything upfront and blind your eyes, no. Beauty, respect and harmony are usually found in the images, events, sensations, emotions and moments that suggest and let your imagination take over; the things that harmoniously complete each other and flowingly complement their surroundings. Hence, nature is well made! And it is wonderfully complex, yet harmonious, and somehow, Japanese design and lifestyle tend to respect this concept and reproduce it in their home and everyday life.

I could carry on for hours and many multiple paragraphs about many other Japanese things, as I read and learn about them, like: the “Geisha”, famous traditional Japanese entertainers, which have many myths about their lifestyle and history. Or even the fascinating order of the “Samurai”, once warriors in pre-industrial Japan, which are now the fierce entrepreneurs of one of the leading market in the world. But also about “Kimonos”, like the Yakuta, which represent very famous traditional Japanese clothing. I could also talk about the Japanese tea ceremony, which is a very formal event involving many exacting, methodical steps. Or yet again, about the Japanese Castles, which were the key to structure and life of many Japanese cities. And about Japanese Temples that were and still are an integral part of Japanese life and death.

But I hear you say: “What about Sake?” Well, you are right, this article is about Sake, not about Japan, even if they are tightly intricate.


Sake: the wine of Japan! What is Sake?


Sake (pronounced Saké) is a rice-based alcoholic beverage of Japanese origin. It is sometimes spelled Saké to show the pronunciation more clearly.

This beverage is called sake in English, but in Japanese, sake (酒) or o-sake (お酒) refers to alcoholic drinks in general. The Japanese term for this specific beverage is “Nihonshu” (日本酒), meaning "Japanese sake".

Sake is also referred to in English as a form of rice wine. However, unlike true wine, in which alcohol is produced by fermenting the sugar naturally present in fruit, sake is made through a brewing process more like that of beer. To make beer or sake, the sugar needed to produce alcohol must first be converted from starch. But the brewing process for sake differs from beer brewing as well, notably in that for beer, the conversion of starch to sugar and sugar to alcohol occurs in two discrete steps, but with sake they occur simultaneously. Additionally, alcohol content also differs between sake, wine, and beer. Wine generally contains 9–16% alcohol[1] and most beer is 3–9%, whereas undiluted sake is 18–20% alcohol, although this is often lowered to around 15% by diluting the sake with water prior to bottling.

  • Rice: The rice used for brewing sake is called “Shuzo Kotekimai” (sake rice). The grain is larger, stronger, and contains less protein and lipid than ordinary rice eaten by Japanese. The rice has a starch component called “Shinpaku” in the center of the grains. Since sake made from rice containing purely starch has a superior taste, the rice is polished to remove the bran. If a grain is small or weak, it will break in the process of polishing. This rice is only used for making sake because it is unpalatable for eating; it is clearly distinguished from rice for the latter purpose. There were at least 80 types of sake rice in Japan. Among these, “Yamadanishiki”, “Gohyakumangoku”, “Miyamanishiki” and “Omachi” rice are very popular.
  • Water: Water is the one of the important ingredients for making sake. Rigid restrictions are observed for the concentrations of certain chemical substances, which can affect the taste and quality of sake. The water used is almost always groundwater or well water. Urban breweries usually import water from other areas, because of the difficulty of getting water of sufficient quality locally.

I took the above information, courtesy of Wikipedia, as an introduction for the subject of Sake, yet I will not fool you by pretending that my knowledge of Sake is that sharp. No, I’m still learning and quickly developing my palate, to better understand, comprehend and appreciate this delectable beverage.


However, here are 4 very helpful links to 4 websites that will tremendously help you (and me too) deepen our knowledge about Sake:

  • http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sake (that has a great table containing the different Special Designations for Sake and straight to the point, comprehensible bullet point about the different style)
  • http://www.aspec-sake.com/ (which represents a certain amount of Sake houses, including Hideyoshi, on which I will focus in this post and which is my main Sake supplier, through Winebow Inc., in NYC)
  • http://www.wineofjapan.com/ (which also represents diverse houses of Sake and ShoChu, and is the second supplier of Sake from which I buy Sake from, in NYC)




ASPEC and Suzuki Shuzouten Hideyoshi Brand


Last year for the first time and this year again, at the beginning of February 2011, Linda Noel Kawabata, a Certified Advanced Sake Specialist and USA Brand Manager for “Akita Sake Promotion and Export Council” (ASPEC), came to visit me with one of the most eminent Japanese Sake brewery owner, Mr. Naoki Suzuki.

During these two visits, I tasted some of the most beautiful Sake(s) that I ever tasted in my life until now. Consequently, that is how Mr. Suzuki and Suzuki Shuzouten Brewery Hideyoshi Brand, which is the full name of his brewery, became, to my palate, synonyms of utmost quality in term of Sake standard.

ASPEC: Akita Sake Promotion and Export Council (ASPEC) is a new consortium of 5 dynamic, traditional, award-wining, progressive, sake breweries from Akita Prefecture, in northern Japan.

The Akita Prefecture is located in the Tohoku region of northern Japan. Its capital city by the eponymous name, Akita, is 280 miles north east of Tokyo. The prefecture is 130miles from north to south and 70 miles from east to west. Within that triangular shape lies 4 mountain ranges: the world heritage Shirakami-Sanchi mountains to the north; the Ou Mountains which form the eastern border, Running parallel to the Our mountain range is the taller Dewa Mountain range that runs through the center of the prefecture. To the south is the eternally snow capped Mount Choukai, also know as the Mt Fuji of Akita. Akita’s western border is on the rough coast of the Japan Sea.

ASPEC members have their breweries in these mountains, valleys and seacoast.

And as their sake were mostly consumed by local people and produced to pair with the local cuisine, you can clearly identify the nuances of each brewery, as you taste through the portfolio.

Founded between 1689 and 1874, for centuries Hinomaru Jozo, Suzuki Shuzouten, Akita Seishu, Tenju and Ginrin Brewery, have produced a superlative selection of hand made, artisanal sake.

The Japanese cherish the region of Akita for its natural beauty, lively festivals, delicate handicrafts, restorative hot springs, delicious seasonal foods and SAKE! Ranking fourth in total sake production, Akita is one of Japan’s most important sake producing states.

The Akita Cold Brewing method was developed in this state that is blanketed in snow throughout the long winter months.

In the awe inspiring beauty of the winter white landscape is hidden the secret of Akita Sake—the purest underground soft water sources –fertile soil and a dust free, pristine environment for producing sake.

The wisdom of hundreds of years of sake brewing in the region is collectively referred to as the “sannai” school of brewing. The Sake Brewing Masters, known as “toji,” harness the severe elements of the region, partnering with nature to create sake that is the distilled essence of the nature that surrounds them.

The Akita Cold Brewing Method ensures smooth, clean sake with full body and memorable characteristics. The people of Akita are so proud of their sake that they refer to their region as “bishuoukoku ” The Empire of beautiful sake!


Suzuki Shuzouten Brewery - Hideyoshi Brand


Suzuki Shuzouten is one of the oldest, continually operating Sake houses in Japan. It is Akita’s most well-known and respected Sake brewery. Founded by Matsuemon Suzuki in 1689, the current owner, Mr. Naoki Suzuki, is the 19th heir. The local lord Satake bestowed the name Hideyoshi on the brewery over 300 years ago.

It is said that he tasted all of the Sake in Akita and judged the Sake of this particular brewery to be the very best. To officiate that he had found Sake of superior excellence, the local Lord conferred, to the brewery, the name “Hide” (excellence) and “Yoshi” (goodness), which is also the name of the legendary feudal warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi.

Suzuki Shuzouten has lived up to that declaration of superior excellence for 300 continuous years. Producing excellent, award winning sake generation after generation is no small task. Fortunately, the Senboku region of Akita where the brewery is located has the perfect combination of natural elements necessary to produce high grade Sake. It has very fertile soil and is one of the leading rice-growing regions of Japan. The area is all the more special because of it so successfully produces the highest quality Sake rice, which is a taller, heavier and more difficult grain to grow, and by the way rather unpalatable.

Secondly, the area has pure, fresh, medium-hard, water source from the nearby Ou Mountain. From cavernous underground springs water is pumped up to a 40-meters deep well within the Suzuki Shuzouten compound. The severe winter cold is the third major ingredient. Harmonizing with nature smooth, full bodied, satisfying taste. While they take advantage of all that nature supplies, and are committed to traditional brewing methods, Hideyoshi continues to challenge itself, believing in continuous innovation. Hideyoshi developed a new strain of sake rice as well as the region’s first Junmai yeast.



Picture of Linda Noel Kawabata and Mr. Naoki Suzuki, owner of Suzuki Shuzouten Brewery - Hideyoshi Brand, next to the Sake section at Heights Chateau. Section that I just revamped with 6 of Hideyoshi Sake and 15 other labels from a few selected brands. I would love to have more on the shelves, but somehow demand is still fairly low and I prefer to have a small selection of carefully selected high quality Sake that will sell, rather than have too many of Ok quality Sake that will not move from the shelves.

Mr.Naoki Suzuki is the 19th heir to the Suzuki Sake house. He was born in the winter of 1960. “I was born right in the brewery compound. I grew up listening to the stories of ancestors and episodes from the olden days of the brewery. I fondly remember sticking my finger in the sake my father and grandfather tasted. I was five years old. Throughout my life, with every story and every shared taste of sake they prepared me to become heir to this historical brewery: Suzuki Shuzouten.” - Mr.Naoki Suzuki

Mr.Suzuki is proud to introduce 6 of its Sake to the American market and audience: “The American gourmet will discover their very own pairings of our sake with the foods they love. This will bring us tremendous joy. KANPAI! CHEERS!” – Mr. Naoki Suzuki

Once presentations were done, we lengthily talked about the process of making Sake and how the percentage of external part rubbed off (polished off) the grain of rice to obtain the purest core and consequently starch, is very important. We tasted the following Sake under Linda’s knowledgeable explanations and translations of the detailed comments from Mr. Suzuki.

I can say that, like often with wine and their winemaker, the various Sake(s) (that we tasted) reflected the kindness, politeness, complexity, generosity and bonhomie emanating from Mr. Suzuki, a man of extreme focus and gentleness, with a good sense of humor and friendly manners that makes you feel comfortable from the start and let you think that you’ve known him forever.

Whether from Hideyoshi or the other brands of ASPEC, all the Sake are coming from the Akita region, northern Japan, and, as we will have done for wines, we tasted them from the lightest to the heaviest, or more elegantly, from the friendliest to the most complex.

The following are the Sake that I tasted with the team during the latest tasting with Linda and Mr. Suzuki; yet I will soon complete them with the descriptions of the ones from the first visit, which where mostly from Hideyoshi and were all fantastic and highly recommended.




Hinomaru Manabito Ginjo Sake (from the Hinomaru brewery)
Suggested retail price $23-$26
Imported / Distributed by ASPEC thru Winebow Inc. in NYC

Profile: Semi-sweet
Polishing Ratio: about 50%
Served Chilled

Hinomaru Brewery was made “the truest of the true” Sake since it was funded by Kutsuzawa Jinbei in 1689 in Yokote townin the southern part of Akita prefecture. A snowy region of northwestern Japan, Yokote is nestled in an agricultural belt long known for its fertile land and superior rice production.

Hinomaru Manabito Ginjo Sake has a clean, clear, transparent color. The nose boasts beautiful, fresh, fruity aromas of peach and citrus and white stone fruit and minerals. The palate is soft, fruity with flavors of melon fruit, honeydew and freshly cut melon peel. Despite slight green edges, which bring ever more freshness to the overall taste, this Sake is light, bright, focus, very balanced and extremely approachable, on the fruit side without being sweet. Litchi and melon are the primary fruit. Excellent and highly recommended for everybody and all occasions! Served chilled as an aperitif with "hors d’oeuvres".




Dewatsuru Habataki Junmai Gingo Sake (from the Dewatsuru Brewery)
Suggested retail price $27-$30
Imported / Distributed by ASPEC thru Winebow Inc. in NYC

Profile: Dry
Polishing ratio: 55%
Rice: Akinosei
Alc: 14-14,9%
Serve Chilled or room temperature

Jushiro Ito founded Akita Seishu Dewatsuru in 1865, in a 150-yearold thatched roof estate that was built at the end of the Edo period in Daisen City, in Akita.

Beside its clean and clear color, Dewatsuru Habataki Junmai Gingo Sake offers a dry, slightly restraint, lightly meaty (bacony may be) nose with hints of Vanilla beans and floral, herbal notes (hay, chamomile), slightly farmy. The palate is fairly light, and dry, a touch fuller than previous one with earthy, meaty, nutty flavors resembling of meat fat and egg corn. Balanced and food friendly, this is a lovely Sake need to be served chilled or room temperature with starters like green and / or vegetable salad and charcuterie. Well crafted.




Dewatsuru Kimoto Junmai Sake (from the Dewatsuru Brewery)
Suggested retail price $25-$28
Imported / Distributed by ASPEC thru Winebow Inc. in NYC

Profile: Semi-dry
Polishing ratio: 65%
Rice: Miyamanishiki & Menkoina Alc: 14-14,9%
Serve room temperature or slightly warm

Jushiro Ito founded Akita Seishu Dewatsuru in 1865, in a 150-yearold thatched roof estate that was built at the end of the Edo period in Daisen City, in Akita.

Behind its clean and clear color, Dewatsuru Kimoto Junmai Sake develops expressive meaty and farmy aromas, more than the previous one, with intermingled notes of meat fat, grilled bread, starch, hay, farina, and slightly roasted, earthy notes. The palate is quite full, earthy with great balance, focus and same yet stronger flavors as the nose, offering a medley of nuances between meat, toasted, roasted, grilled bread, meat fat, mushroom and cereals. Excellent with food, this earthier Sake will be great with Spanish food: Jamon Iberico and Paella de Pollo y Mariscos. Excellent, definitely recommended.




Hideyoshi Honjozo Sake (from Hideyoshi Brewery)
Suggested retail price $25-$28
Imported / Distributed by ASPEC thru Winebow Inc. in NYC

Profile: Semi-dry
Polishing Ratio: 65%
Rice: Menkoina
Serve: chilled or lukewarm

As one of my favorite Japanese Brewery, it was a pleasure to once again taste Sake from Hideyoshi, after discovering them for the first time last year.

Hideyoshi Honjozo is considered as the father of Honjozo Sake. The depth and complexity of this Honjozo express the true potential of the classification. Honjozo means “Spiritual Balance” and is a Sake which was cut with spirit/ alcohol during the brewing process.

Hideyoshi Honjozo Sake nose offers rustic, earthy flavors of rye and oats, and here again, a lot of meaty, nutty, roasted nuts, grilled toast, mushroom, forest floor, and tertiary aromas. It is rich, clean, fruity and nutty on the palate, with flavors of date fruit, stone core dried fruit and lot of mineral, with a wonderful, long finish. So far it the strongest Sake of the bunch, it is excellent too and seems that it was made exclusively to be paired with earthy, substantial food. It pairs well with grilled meats and hearty soups. Love it, highly recommended.




Minato Harbor Tsuchizaki Yamahai Nama Genshu: Futsu Sake (from Naba Shouten Ginrin Brand)
Suggested retail price $25-$28
Imported / Distributed by ASPEC thru Winebow Inc. in NYC

Naba Shouten (Ginrin Brand) is a company that was successfully selling merchandise to the ruling feudal clan of Akita, when in 1815, the leader of the clan, Satake Yoshikazu, ordered Yusei Saburouemon to make an experimental sake brewery. One hundred and thirteen years later, in 1928, under the direction of Akita Prefecture Brewing Research Center, Mr. Masatsune Hanaoka, Naba Shouten built the first reinforced concrete Sake brewery in Tohoku, the Northeastern region of Japan.

The brewery, located right at the Sea of Japan, is called Ginrin Brewery. Traditions meet trendy at Ginrin Brewery where they revitalized the ancient Yamahai Sake brewing method within a modern concrete structure. The name “GINRIN” is in honor of the sake-loving fishermen in the port town. The Sea of Japan is known for its rough waters and the valor of the local fishermen. In the traditional song, “Soranbushi”, the fishermen celebrate a bountiful haul while enjoying sake and singing: “The fish glisten silver, the seagulls swirl, the sun shines well upon us!”.

“Yamahai” is the term given to Sake where lactic acid is allowed to develop spontaneously in the early, “moto” yeast fermentation stage of Sake production. Allowing this naturally occurring process requires great skill and patience from “Toji” (master Sake brewer), Mr. Katsuhiro Fujita, because more wild yeast and bacteria purposely become part of the brew. The flavor profiles that result are wonderfully rich and tangy and invite a host of delectable food pairings.

Profile: Semi-sweet
Polishing Ratio: 67%
Rice: Miyama Nishiki
Alcohol: 20-21%

With a clean and clear color, Minato Harbor Tsuchizaki Yamahai Nama Genshu: Futsu Sake, undiluted and unpasteurized, offers richness and freshness at the same time. The nose offers very expressive aromas of nutty, dried fruit, date, apricot, melon peel, litchi, dry chamomile flowers, white blossom and nuances of freshly cut hay. The palate is beautifully balanced and inviting, with excellent texture and deep, concentrated flavors yet it is elegant and refine. I love it. Serve it chilled or room temperature over fish in sauce, shellfish and white meat dishes. Beautiful and highly recommended.



To resume, I will say that I overused the word “excellent” for all the above Sake and in general for all Sake from Hideyoshi, but it is true, despite my learning novice palate in term of Sake, my sharp and discriminating palate in term of wine is assuring me that I’m not wrong about my feeling and sensations regarding these Sake. My taste buds definitely agree too and are asking for more. I’m urging you to embrace the world of Sake and discover the extremely diversified types and flavors that they have to offer and that are available at your local store or online.

You will never insist enough about the fact that you should go to www.HeightsChateau.com to find out about all the Sake that I bought lately, as well as all the wines too. We have a "What's New" rubric that we update weekly.

You can also go to http://www.sakayanyc.com and visit the site of the only Sake specialized boutique store in Manhattan. Or even consult http://www.urbansake.com, which is a great Sake website.

I hope, as usual, that this post, even if extremely long, was informative and gave you the desire to discover Sake. Promises, I will soon find my notes that I misplaced about the first visit of Linda and Mr. Suzuki and post them ASAP.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info about the wineries taken and edited from the "ASPEC" brochure left at the store by Linda, and also from the ASPEC website at www.aspec-sake.com and certain details from our conversation with Mr.Suzuki. Part of the other info courtesy of www.Wikipedia.com and other inspiring references in books and related articles about Japan read within the last few years.

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

Tuesday, February 22, 2011

BOE: Wine and Art combined to be appreciated, admired and tasted & 2007 BOE (Brooklyn Oenology) Viognier North Fork of Long Island New York USA


2007 BOE (Brooklyn Oenology) Viognier North Fork of Long Island New York USA

BOE introduction to their website says it all:

Brooklyn Oenology. Wine made in New York, Art made in Brooklyn.”

I first discovered “BOE” Brooklyn Oenology a few years ago, when Alie Shaper, BOE’s owner and winemaker extraordinaire, came to the store to introduce her wines. It was the beginning of a beautiful adventure for her, but at that time, when she barely started the operation, she was working on her own: doing tastings, making and promoting wines and delivering them on her own. But she was passionate and convinced, and wanted to show her wines to the world.

Alie established the company in 2006 and started selling her wines in 2007. Within the last 5 years, she went from being a one person operation to a 7 persons operation. She stumbled into winemaking like someone suddenly realizing that he or she has a purpose or a mission to accomplish, with a simple light bulb idea.

But don’t get me wrong, she didn’t develop her passion for wine and winemaking just like that, from one day to the next. No. Well acquainted with wine, she was already working in the wine business for a few years and had already an internship at Premium Wine Group, a winemaking facility on Long Island; but it took a move and the influence of a few new surrounding factors, to really initiate the idea.

In 2005, she decided to move to Brooklyn, partly for practical reasons, but mainly because of the significant artistic community and attractive lifestyle of this vibrant and ever-active borough. Once in Brooklyn and already establishing contacts and friendships with the local artists, the brilliant idea of incorporating Wine and Art to celebrate local wine culture and local creativity came to her mind.

In 2006, she started to produce wine at her internship facility in the North Fork of Long Island, Premium Wine Group, and established her office in Green Point, the northern neighborhood of Brooklyn, near the young-and-hype Williamsburg.

The heights of Kings county throne like an old, yet wise and serene sovereign, overlooking his young and somewhat undisciplined sibling that Manhattan is. And despite its bad and rough reputation, Brooklyn has become a hub for great inventive minds, energetic young entrepreneurs and daring artists. It is a borough of mixed traditions and culture, which combined old established family traditions and respect with outgoing attitude and desire to achieve better.

Today, with its many quaint places, lanes, terraces and quiet cul-de-sac, the western neighborhoods of Brooklyn combined some of the most exclusive family-oriented and hype neighborhoods in the city. And atop of being filed with inviting bars, mixologists clubs, small craftsman boutiques, eclectic food markets, modest factories and gourmet restaurants and eclectic art and culture, and much more; Brooklyn also encompasses wineries and breweries and distilleries lead by ingenious and creative people, which have for the past few years helped revived and reestablished Brooklyn needs to shine and demonstrate.

As for BOE, nowadays, 5 years later, Alie is still making wine at the same facility (Premium wine Group), and even continues, from time to time when not too busy or in case of urgent measure, to deliver her wines to certain accounts.

From the first few wines of the beginning, she tremendously expanded her portfolio to 14 different labels, most made by local Artists and, for some, conveniently detachable from the bottle. Everything in her concept revolve around Wine and Art, which are blended together into the bottle of course, but also reflected on each label, which somehow, by the colors and forms, auto-suggest in advance the aromas, flavors and overall profile and attitude of the wine. Pretty smart, isn't it?



2007 Brooklyn Oenology "BOE" Viognier North Fork of Long Island
Suggested retail price $16-$19
Distributed directly by Brooklyn Oenology BOE in NYC

To prove what I was trying to say on the last paragraph, let's take for example the label of the 2007 Viognier: you may see something else, but in my opinion, it looks like a close-up of gently undulating grass on a bright, sunny day due to the movement and the light; it evokes Spring, or Summer, a picnic may be... and yet again, it somehow also gives you the illusion of being in the water or like if you were looking at grass under water just below the surface with the ever-changing light filtering through it; creating in your mind images and sensations of grassiness, minerality, freshness, crispiness, lightness, something with soft, gentle and discrete behavior, yet bright and lively and inviting attitude. And surprisingly, it is also what you get in the bottle when you taste the wine. What a great idea! (and it works with pretty much all of her wines, amazing).

Let's talk about that Viognier. Like for most of her wines, she sources most of her grapes through various growers of Long Island and this Viognier is no exception. All of her wines are bright and racy with a lot of focus, great acidity and balance, but this Viognier is one of my favorite wines amongst all the ones she introduced me to, since I begin to support her project and ideology a few years ago.

Viognier is a tough grape variety to deal with: floral, mineral, expressive, long, elegant, mouth-coating and lightly oily when well crafted; it can also turn into a tired, dull, fat, viscous and uninteresting wine, if the fruit is too ripe and the overall wine profile lacks the acidity and freshness. However, this is not the case for 2007 BOE Viognier, which is quite zesty and refreshing.

Viognier loves stainless steel; so, it was fermented in-tank at a cool temperature. It rested on a small amount of lees for a few weeks to extract extra aromas to give the wine its prolonged finish. It was then simply rested and bottled. Its flavors present in a sequence of fruits and flowers, and linger like a reminder of a summer evening. (320 cases made)” – Alie Shaper, Winemaker/Owner

I could have described the taste of this wine myself, like I normally do, but I’m usually too wordy and Alie has a great way on describing it shortly and pleasantly.

A cooling alternate French varietal, our Viognier will refresh you with honeydew, peach, lime, and honeysuckle, finishing clean with stone and rose. It’s a great wine when you want to explore outside of Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio. Get sipping and be transported out of the city and into the meadow.” – Alie Shaper, Winemaker/Owner

She has a great website where one can find a lot of info about what is happening in the BOE world, but I just wanted, with this post, to open little parentheses about her past and how she began this wonderful adventure, which you will not necessary find on her website. And encourage her to continue to pursue her ideas and visions. http://brooklynoenology.com

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

2009 Qupé Marsanne Santa Ynez Valley California USA


QUPÉ

Qupé is dedicated to producing handcrafted Rhône varietals and Chardonnay from California’s Central Coast. Robert Neil Lindquist, a.k.a “Bob”, and his team employ traditional winemaking techniques to make wines, which are “varietally” correct, true to their type and speak of their vineyard sources and Terroir of origin.

Qupé goal is to make wines with impeccable balance that can be enjoyed in their youth, yet because of the good acidity from cool vineyard sites can also benefit from ageing. Bob and his team are committed to sourcing grapes from some of the best and most prestigious vineyards in Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo counties.

Yet, before I describe the 2009 Qupe Marsanne Santa Ynez Valley California, it will be difficult not to talk about the legendary winemaker behind the label and his very interesting journey in the wine world, which inspired him at an early age and eventually led the way, bouncing from one opportunity to another, to become one of the best winemakers and producers of California central coast.

So here is his story that I simply took and slightly shorten from the winery website at http://qupe.com/

Robert Neil “Bob” Lindquist was born in the Midwest and moved to Southern California with his family in 1964 when Bob was 11 years old. The sixties music scene quickly became a passion of Bob’s as bands like the Beatles, Beach Boys, Kinks, Byrds and Rolling Stones were electrifying the airwaves…rock and roll music still resonates with Bob and in fact the “Kinks” later became a plot device in Bob’s choice to pursue a career in winemaking.

In the early ‘70’s while Bob was in college at UC Irvine he got his first taste of good wine and he was instantly hooked. Bob started hanging out at Hi-Time Cellars, a great wine shop in Bob’s hometown of Costa Mesa, asking a lot of questions and buying whatever wines he could afford…and in 1975, at the age of 22 years old, Bob moved from “SoCal” with his young family to the North Central Coast to pursue a career in the wine business.

Bob’s first job was working the 1975 harvest at the Fortino Winery in the Hecker Pass area near Gilroy. When harvest ended he landed a job at the San Martin Winery tasting room in Gilroy where his enthusiasm and growing wine knowledge quickly got him promoted to assistant manager. San Martin was a dynamic and important player in the growing Central Coast wine business.

When an opportunity to manage a new tasting room in Ventura County came along in 1976, Bob jumped on it. This lead to Bob’s discovery of the potential for wine in neighboring Santa Barbara County, and from his first visits to Firestone Vineyards, Santa Ynez Valley Winery, Rancho Sisquoc and Sanford & Benedict this is where he was destined to be.

On January 1st, 1979, Bob moved to Santa Ynez to manage a retail wine shop in the little town of Los Olivos. This shop was way ahead of its time, and was owned by the son of the owner of Zaca Mesa Winery. Fate intervened (the Kinks) and in September 1979 Bob went to work at Zaca Mesa as their first tour guide just in time for the upcoming harvest. Zaca Mesa didn’t get many tourists in those early days so most of Bob’s time was spent working in the cellar learning to make wine under the tutelage of assistant winemaker Jim Clendenen, who would become Bob’s winemaking mentor.

Zaca Mesa was fertile ground for learning about winemaking in this up and coming region. In 1982, while still working at Zaca Mesa, Bob started Qupé by buying barrels and grapes and traded his time to use Zaca Mesa’s facility. In that first vintage he made 900 cases of chardonnay, syrah and a dry rosé of pinot noir.

After the 1983 harvest Bob left Zaca Mesa and went off on his own, continuing to rent space in other wineries to make the Qupé wines. As the winery’s production grew, Bob decided to focus on Syrah and other varietals of the Rhone, while continuing to make chardonnay, which always helped pay the bills.

In 1989 Bob joined with his old friend Jim Clendenen (who had started his own winery, Au Bon Climat, in 1982) to build a winery facility of their own under a lease agreement with the Bien Nacido Vineyard. The wines continue to be produced in this same facility to this day.

Bob is also a partner in Verdad, a winery dedicated to Spanish varieties produced by his wife, Louisa. In 2002 Bob and Louisa purchased an 80 acre ranch in the Edna Valley near San Luis Obispo, and the following year they moved to SLO with their then 2 year old son Theo. In 2005 they planted 40 acres at what is now called the Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard, where they are starting the next chapter of their life.

In short, Bob Lindquist had an amazing “parcours” and is now a recognized and consulted winemaker, who transmitted his passion for wine and winemaking to most members of his family. Bob’s two oldest sons, Ethan and Luke Lindquist, are also winemakers and spent plenty of time around the ABC/Qupé winery. Daughter Paige runs the Qupé tasting room and wine club.


2009 Qupé Marsanne Santa Ynez Valley California USA
Suggested retail price $15-$18
Distributed by Verity Wine Partners in NYC

2009 Qupe Marsanne Santa Ynez Valley is a blend of 85% Marsanne and 15% Roussanne, including 70% Marsanne from Ibarra-Young, 15% Marsanne from Purisima Mountain and 15% Roussanne from Bien Nacido Vineyards. The Marsanne lots were barrel fermented and aged in neutral barrels, while the Roussanne was fermented and aged in one year old Francois Freres French oak barrels.

The Marsanne lots were picked at the low end of ripeness, 21.2° for the Ibarra-Young and 22.2° for the Purisima, while they still have great acidity and fresh, balanced alcohol levels. The Roussanne holds its acidity better and was picked at riper sugars, 24.4°, which adds richness and complexity to the blend. 848 cases of 750ml and 98 cases of half bottles were bottled in June 2010.

The resulting 2009 Qupé Marsanne Santa Ynez Valley is a classic example of Marsanne from cooler climate in central coast. Yet it is far from the Marsanne wines of the Rhone Valley, which are fatter and denser. This Marsanne has more refreshing acidity, crispiness and balance, and seems less viscous than its Rhone counterpart. Even the color seems paler. The nose exhibits aromas of white core fruit like white peach, but also citrus and fresh almond, with flinty mineral notes. The palate is rich and complex, and lively and racy, with a lengthy zesty finish, rather than being flat and dull like it happens too often with white Rhone when not properly handle and care after, more especially if inexpensive.

Like Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne are difficult grape varieties to work with and the result may sometime be unsatisfying, if not crafted with enough acidity and balance of all components. I must say that Bob isn’t like at his first vintage, and his experience is greatly reflected in his wines, especially this one (and his Syrah, which is for me always a standard of quality).

Although ready to drink now, this Marsanne blend offers texture, structure, balance and great acidity, which should allow it to age nicely for the next 2-3 years, and more (but you know me, I hate speculating about how long a wine will last in the bottle, because there are too many factors that come to play in the life of a wine to really be certain and advance big numbers: how it was stored, oscillating temperatures, etc…).

However, in my opinion, better drink it now than latter to enjoy the full characteristic of the flavors, which encompasses vibrant nuances of peach pit, citrus and green hazelnuts and honey in the lingering finish. Serve it as an aperitif with hors d’oeuvres, but also with fish and white meat dishes.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Most info taken and partly edited from the winery website at http://qupe.com/

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.