Sunday, August 15, 2010

2007 Marcato “Barattaro” Noir Veneto Central Northern Italy

Marcato “Barattaro” Noir Veneto Central Northern Italy

Following a previous article that I wrote about Marcato, here is another wine from this Veneto winery that I would like to introduce to you.

Azienda Agricola Marcato is an old family run winery located near the village of Roncà, about 35 kilometers east of Verona, in the alpine foothills of the Verona province of Veneto. With great west-south exposure, the winery has vineyards located on both the flat land of the Alpone valley and the sloppy Berici hills.

The history of the winery started a bit more than 110 years ago, when Francesco Marcato bought the first 3 hectares of vines near Roncá. The family first started has vine grower, selling their grapes to the local cooperative, like many other at that time. After a few years, they expanded the vineyard, the family grew and the marriage of the son Giuseppe started a new generation of grape growers and winemakers.

By 1969, the first bottled of Soave and Recioto di Soave were bottled and sold. Marcato estate expanded even more with the constant addition of new vineyards up until 1991, when they bought a new land in the Berici hills where the family now produces most of their premium red wines made with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Tocai Rosso.

In this area between the towns of Vicenza and Verona, Marcato now owns about 60 hectares (150 acres), of which 50 hectares (125 acres) are planted with vineyards. It also buys grapes from another 25 hectares (62,5 acres) of vineyards belonging to selected local grape growers.

In total, the yearly yield is around 600 tons of grapes from the various DOC areas of: Soave Colli Scaligeri, Soave Classico, Monti Lessini Durello and Colli Berici for a production of 4000 hectoliters of wine. Garganega, Trebbiano di Soave, Durella, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are grown in the vineyards around the villages of Roncà, Montecchia di Crosara, Monteforte d’Alpone and Soave. The red grapes Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Tocai Rosso are grown on the Hills of Sarego and Grancona in the Berici Hills.

The vinification is sited around the hill west of Roncà, on the Via Prandi, where the company has the vinery, which covers a total surface of 7.000 squared meters (0.7 hectares or 1.7 acres). The estate is divided in the various departments including the crusher, the drier room “Appassitoio”, the fermentation room for the red and white wines, and the production of the sparkling wines both with Charmat Method and Champenoise Method in the caves of the winery. It also encompasses the barrels room, the bottling line hall and a conditioned warehouse for storage.

Having full control of the production of all of their wines at the same place offers the winery to maintain high quality and great consistency one vintage after another. The difference of vineyard’s soil types and microclimate only comforts their aptitude to produce very eclectic complex wines.

Like for many other wine regions around the world, a visit to Veneto’s vineyard is the only way to fully understand the symbiosis between each natural element (exposure, soils, microclimate, rainfall, altitude, percentage of the slope, natural drainage, etc…) and how, when combined with each other, they can result such interesting wines.

2007 Marcato “Barattaro” Noir Veneto central northern Italy
Suggested retail price $16-$19
Imported/Distributed by Noble House Wines in NYC

Product only during the best vintages, when the sun and weather are temperate, with climatic conditions not too humid, Marcatto Barattaro Noir is made from 100% Pinot Noir grown in the Alpone valley and sold under Veneto IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica). It was crafted at the Barattaro estate, hence the name. It was first fermented in stainless steel tanks, before spending about 9 months in new French oak and then 16 months in large 4,000 liters Moldavian oak casks. The previous vintage was 2004.

An elegant and fresh 100% Pinot Noir from the Barattaro estate in Veneto, this approachable medium-to-light bodied red offers fruity red cherry aromas with a touch of oak, great acidity and earthy terroir-driven fruit flavors. Aged in both French and Moldavian oak, it boasts clean red berry flavors exploding on the mid-palate, supported by silky tannins and nice acidity lingering into the crisp cherry finish. A versatile pairing wine that works well with everything from chicken to lighter meats to creamy cheeses.

Overall, an intriguing wine that grew in me on a more positive way after a bit of opening and was even better the second day. The reason is that, surprisingly enough, I felt a light fizzy sensation when I first opened it. I left my glass aside for a few minutes and still felt the strange sensation when I tried another sip of it. I though to myself that may be it was one of those wines that deserve a few minutes in the fridge due to its acidity and slight fizzy attitude. I drank another glass of it and left the rest of the bottle for the next day. To my surprise, I found it better the next day. Obviously, the fizz was gone and it was more rounded on the edges, offering a silkier palate and a more pleasant experience overall.


LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from the winery website at

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