Twins: Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques 2008
It is not every day that I can open and taste some bottles from Armand Rousseau.
This particular producer is so in demand that it is difficult to find some bottles, and when you find some, they are so expensive, nowadays, that nobody drinks them anymore.
Instead, they use them as products of speculation, by putting them in their cellars, prior to reselling them a few years later via auction houses or private sales.
Yet, on some rare occasions, like today, some of these bottles end up being served, rather than being stored.
The first bottle was delicate, silky and elegant, not to say light, faded and thin. The nose timidly offered aromas of red, almost slightly underriped cherry and griottes, herbs, minerals and earthy notes. The palate was light bodied, a bit thin in my opinion, delivering nice and gentle cherry fruit, backed up by a great acidity, but not really substantial, lacking of texture and structure. It was good and overall balanced and harmonious, but lacked the layers, complexity and wow factor somewhat expected at HKD 14,500 (€1800) a bottle. Good, not great.
The 2nd bottle showed much better features and quality: more expressive on the nose and on the palate, it seemed fresher, more opulent, ample and generous, and had a more persistent finish. Ever the color seemed darker and younger than the previous bottle. Loved it .
Which made me ponder and ask myself why? This is a great example of bottle variations which, once again, proved the importance of being aware of the provenance and storage conditions, as well as anthenticy and genuineness of the bottles. Both real? One fake? Or one that already traveled the world over many times in auctions? Who knows... All I can say is that the difference was obvious... yet, so many factors might come to play to explain this difference. Hard to say.
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