Buzet & 2004 Chateau de Gueyze Buzet red Southwest of France

Buzet

Buzet? Did you ever heard about Buzet? No? Well I will try with this post to enlighten you. Let’s go back to the southwest of France to discover it together.

Often confused with Bordeaux or even more confused for being one of the numerous Bordeaux appellations, Buzet has always lived in the shadow of Bordeaux. It is partly due to the fact that during the Middle-Age period, Buzet belonged to the Bordeaux wine region; but it is also because even nowadays, Buzet wines, which are predominately red, are produced with the same prominent Bordeaux red grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Although Buzet are usually darker, fruitier, spicier and earthier than Bordeaux, they both have somewhat similar tasting features.

The village of Buzet, which gave its name to the surrounding eponymous wine region, is located about 110 kilometers (about 60 miles) southeast of Bordeaux, about halfway between Bordeaux and Toulouse when you drive south on the Highway A62, in the Lot-et Garonne.

Buzet is a short name for “Buzet-sur-Baïse”, named after the Baïse River, an affluent of the Garonne River, near which the Romans first built it centuries ago, and also where, some centuries later, influential Lords of Gascony established their quarters and built their Castle near by. Consequently, Buzet gave its name to the wine region, which is now regrouping about 900 hectares of vineyards that roughly stretches between Agen and Marmande, in the heart of Gascony.

All Buzet vineyards enjoy a continental microclimate slightly influenced by the proximity of the Atlantic Ocean yet protected by the Landes forest, which allows for a good amount of sun and ideal ripeness. Growing conditions are imparted by the west wind, which aerate the vines, and the nearby Garonne River, which provides just the right amount of moisture for the grapes to fully ripen.

The main economic activity of Buzet has always been the agriculture, and more especially the viticulture. From the village archives, it easy to attest that the wine of Buzet had their glorious days back in the 13th and 15th centuries; then were fairly reputed in the 18th century; rediscovered during the 19th century when the village experienced a needed renaissance, and enjoyed a fair amount of recognition up until early 20th century. The Baïse River and the Canal de Garonne inaugurated in 1856, also brought a lot of commerce activities.

However, due to the Phylloxera plague, which occurred between 1860 and 1930 and devastated more than 75% of most European vineyards, Buzet wine quality dropped and the village became more renowned for its pencil factory than its wines, especially in between the two world wars, up until the mid-1950. But wine production has always prevailed, adored by the locals, and more especially the Lords and Bourgeois since the Medieval times, it was normal that wine production had to resurface.

Buzet is now somewhat known worldwide through the “Cave des Vignerons de Buzet”, which was established in the 1950s, thanks to the will of a handful of growers who wanted to free themselves from the tutelage of traders and Négociants. It is both a qualitative and commercial success, beyond the hopes of its creators. La Cave des Vignerons de Buzet accounts for about 90% of total production of Buzet wines.

In 1973, the region was elevated to the rank of Buzet AOC, a well-deserved victory that once again confirmed the will and determination of its growers and established the quality of Buzet wines, once and for all marking the difference with Bordeaux, taking the shadow away. Rare are the independent producers, but there are a few that grow, vinify and bottle their wines at the estate.

La Cave des Vignerons de Buzet produce many different wines under various labels, which depend on the Terroir of origin, the type of soil, the quality of the parcels, the age of the vines and the potential of the resulting wines depending of the vintage.

Château de Gueyze is the leading brand of “La Cave des Vignerons de Buzet”, it has became a real standard for the appellation.

Château de Gueyze

Château de Gueyze is a magnificent 80 hectares (200 acres) vineyard situated on gravelly and clay-limestone soils overlooking the Garonne River. It is the largest vineyard of the appellation and the venerated benchmark of the area. Over the last 25 years, the estate has gained great recognition, producing powerful yet delicate wines. The maturing period in oak enhances the wine’s expression without ever dominating it.

The key of the complexity of Château de Buzet comes partly from the quality of the various types of soils: gravely, chalky and clayey, which allow for greater texture and structure; and also from a rigorous selection of the best parcels.



2004 Château de Gueyze Buzet Southwest of France
Suggested retail price $20-$23
Imported/Distributed by Baron François in NYC

"Gueyze" is like "Baïse". It's a Gasconised Celtic word meaning, roughly, "little river". At the edge of the nearby heath, a tiny stream full of trout and shrimps is called "the Gueyze". In other words, water! How has a place with a watery name become the flagship "terroir" for Buzet wines? It's one of the great mysteries of this marvelous soil. And it's here that one of the best wines in Gascony is made.

After careful hand-harvest, the wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks, with a long maceration (about 3 weeks) like in Bordeaux to extract the maximum of components: color, tannins, fruit, etc.. And then matured in French oak barrels for 12 months. The wine is finally lightly fined in barrel before bottling without filtration.

A blend of 40% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2004 Château de Gueyze Buzet red is quite dark in color with good intensity. The nose offers complex and fragrant aromas like ripe dark and red fruit mixed with spices and earth and complemented by menthol and eucalyptus hints. The palate is quite dense and rich, yet well balanced with the same flavors as in the nose and present yet integrated tannins. The finish is soft and harmonious, a touch earthy an elegant tannic structure, a promise of good ageing potential.

Pair it with stew and grilled meat, and more especially with some specialties of Gascony like: "Confit de Canard", "Cassoulet de Castelnaudary", "Saucisses lentilles de Toulouse a la graisse d'Oie", "Gesiers de Canard aux Pruneaux d'Agen", "Magret de Canard a L'Armagnac", "Tournedos Rossini" (tender piece of beef topped with pan seared Foie Gras), etc...

The last vintage that we had in the store was the 2000, which was truly enjoyable and complex. Although integrated and fairly well rounded, the 2004 vintage seems a touch more tannic with less riper fruit than the 2000, but it still shows promises for the near future. Southwest of France wine lovers should enjoyed it a great deal. I know I did.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken from the importer website at www.baronfrancois.com and from the winery website at www.vignerons-buzet.fr

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines (and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability.

2009 Terradora di Paolo Falanghina Irpinia Campania Italy

Following my recently written 2 or 3 posts about Campania and its wines, like Terredora di Paolo (and Feudi di San Gregorio), where I explicitly expressed my attraction for the wines of Campania, I couldn't resist writing about another one of them. I also invite you to read them on my wine blog to have more info about the area and the winery, and will go straight to the wine description.

2009 Terradora di Paolo Falanghina Irpinia Campania Italy
Suggested retail price $14-$17
Imported/Distributed by VIAS in NYC

Crafted by recognized oenologist Lucio Mastroberardino, Terredora di Paolo Falanghina is produced from 100% Falanghina planted on a 16 hectares hill-slope vineyard located near the village of Montermiletto, facing south-southeast, at an altitude of about 410 meters of altitude (about 1350 feet). Growing on calcareous-clay soil, the vines are Guyot trained. Grapes are usually harvested in the second two weeks of October. The must is settled and then fermented at cool temperatures using selected yeasts. The wine is then aged on its lees in stainless steel for about 4-6 months and sees no oak. It remains in bottle for 6 months before release. About 80,000 bottles of this particular wine are produced each year.

The 2009 Terredora di Paolo Falanghina has a pale straw color with slight green reflects on the rime. The nose is fresh and mineral, a touch herbal too, with white and yellow fruit aromas mixed with floral hints. The palate is also quite mineral with beautiful acidity and focus, and a very enjoyable coating way while it expands gently. The finish is quite long, structured and brighter than the previous vintage in my opinion. Complex with good intensity yet it seems to pause to expose its best profile and use some of its charm. Love it.

I don't know about you, but Falanghina has to be one of my favorite white grape varieties with Godello, Jacquère, Roussette, Viognier, Albariño, Grüner Veltliner, Romorantin, Arbois, Chenin Blanc, Muscadet, Greco di Tufo, Erbaluce, Grechetto, Vermentino, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, Inzolia, Viura, Verdejo, Loureira, Rivaner, Palomino, Semillon, Fié Gris, Trebbiano, Vernaccia, Parellada, Pardina, Pinot Blanc, Riesling and Gewurztraminer (just to name a few amongst those that I really love) and of course, but depending of the winemaker style and region of origin Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Find more info about this winery on the importer website at www.viaswine.com or on the winery website at www.terredora.net

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines (and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability.

Umbria and 2008 Argillae Grechetto Umbria IGT Italy

Umbria

Umbria is a region of central Italy. Its capital is Perugia. It is bordered by Tuscany to the west, the Marche to the east and Lazio to the south. This region is mostly hilly and mountainous. It is the only Italian region having neither coastline nor common border with other countries.

Its topography varies a great deal from the Apennines Mountains to the east, with the highest point in the region at Monte Vettore on the border of the Marche culminating at 2,476 m (8,123.36 ft), gradually descending westward towards Lazio and the bottom of the Tiber valley basin, with the lowest point at Attigliano 96 m (314.96 ft).

Umbria is blessed with a similar climate to Tuscany’s: warm and dry, but cool enough, thanks to the Tiber River and its tributaries flowing through the region. The soil is mainly calcareous clay and sand, with plenty of limestone, which is ideal for growing vines.

Although Umbrian agriculture is noted for its tobacco and its olive oil, its vineyards produce excellent wines, especially the whites. Another typical Umbrian product, which is also one the most sought-after mushrooms on the planet and a gloriously flavorful culinary ingredient, is the black truffle found in Valnerina, an area in the southeastern part of Umbria that produces about 45% of the entire Italian Truffle production.

Umbria’s main acclaim to wine fame is that it is the home of the historic hilltop village, Orvieto, and its eponymous white wine. Recently rediscovered by the customers in the export markets over the last decade and consequently enjoying very good press coverage, this friendly white wine nowadays draws agri-tourists to the vineyards surrounding the medieval town. Other noted wines produced in Umbria are Torgiano and Rosso di Montefalco.

Orvieto is the village, which gave its name to the white wine produced in the region of the same name. The region of Orvieto is located in the southwestern part of Umbria, in the immediate surroundings of the eponymous village and overlapping Lazio.

It is predominantly known for its white wines made from a blend of mostly Grecchetto and Trebbiano, which are sold under two Denominazione di origine Controllata (DOC): Orvieto and Orvieto Classico. In the Middle Ages, Orvieto was reputed for its sweet, golden yellow color wine. Nowadays, white Orvieto is mainly dry, but semi-sweet styles, known as Orvieto Abboccato, and dolce (sweet), are also produced in small quantities. Blended red wines, with some time up to eight red varietals including Sangiovese, are sold under the Rosso Orvietano DOC.

Also, it is not rare to see single white varietal, like Trebbiano or Grecchetto, be bottled on their own and sold under the Umbria IGT label, like the wine for this post which is a Grechetto produced by a winery called “Argillae”.

Azienda Agricola ARGILLAE

“ARGILLAE” takes its name from “Argilla” the Italian word for “clay”, which is particularly abundant in the soil of this part of Umbria.

Azienda Agricola Argillae is set on the hills between Allerona and Ficulle, northwest of Orvieto, and boasts some 640 hectares of land, of which 170 are planted with vine (the rest is mainly devoted to olive groves, corn and woods).

The vineyards are located on the slopes of the surrounding hills, at approx 300 to 400 meters above sea level (bet. 1000 to 1380 feet) and enjoy great exposure to the east and west with ideal microclimate. The Terroir is characterized by rock formations called “calanchi”, a type of badland formed by erosion in clayey bedrock, particularly along the river valleys, some 2 millions years ago. As a proof that this area was once under water, the land is rich in fossilized seashells and turtle shells.

With the expertise of renowned oenologist Lorenzo Landi, Argillae winery offers 3 interpretations of Umbria wines that reflect its land and its history, with a Grechetto, an Orvieto and a Sinuoso. The one that particularly attracted my attention and especially startled my taste buds was the Grecchetto.




2008 Argillae Grechetto Umbria IGT Italy
Suggested retail price $12-$15
Imported/ Distributed by VIAS in NYC

Crafted by recognized oenologist Lorenzo Landi, Argillae Grechetto Umbria IGT is produced from 100% Grechetto planted on hill-slope vineyards facing south-southwest, at an altitude of about 365 meters of altitude. Growing on calcareous-clay soil, the vines are cordon trained and spur-pruned.

The grapes are carefully selected and hand harvested in the vineyard, then submitted to a brief cold maceration process in a closed press and finally pressed delicately. The resulting juice is racked and vinified in stainless steel at controlled temperature (59-62F). Its subsequent refining on fine lees enhances its sensory properties. Malolactic fermentation is carried out in stainless steel tanks and barriques, where the wine spends another 5-6 months before bottling. 6-7,000 bottles of this particular wine are produced each year.

The 2008 Argillae Grechetto has a super pale yellow color, almost transparent with steely reflects. The nose is bright and mineral, with discreet aromas of white and yellow fruit intermingled with a fresh touch of sea breeze. The palate, resembling somewhat a Muscadet, is clean, bright, light on its feet yet quite complex and structured. The malo and time on its lees conferred a certain ampleness, yet it remains very summery with the same fruit and Terroir characteristic as the nose and that same iodine touch (remember my post on Salty wines? No? Read it at www.ledomduvin.com/2010/04/salty-wines-or-wines-with-hints-of.html). The crisp and lingering finish is ultra refreshing and inviting. This is an excellent summer white wine, and a steal at this price! On its own or with food, this wine is a versatile crowd pleaser. Love it.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from the importer website at www.viaswine.com

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines (and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability.

Feudi di San Gregorio and Terredora di Paolo craft delightful Campania's wines

Feudi di San Gregorio and Terredora di Paolo craft delightful Campania's wines

I personally love the wines from the northern part of Italy, more especially those from Piedmont, Val d’Aosta and Friuli. Growing mainly on slopes, more or less high, on the foothills of the Alps, the wines produced there present great minerality and enhancing acidity, conferring the resulting wines a lot of appeal, depth, brightness and complexity, without being heavy or too full. Often age worthy, these wines whether white, red or rosé are usually very attractive, earthy, focus and inviting.

Yet, there is another region in Italy that I love. No it is not Tuscany, although I appreciate it a great deal, I prefer Campania. The volcanic soil of this wonderful sunbathed region of the southwestern Italy confers to its wines great complexity, minerality and earthiness, which are very-difficult-to-dislike features (especially in wines).

Lately, I cannot praise enough the fact that my favorite rosé of the moment is:



2009 Feudi di San Gregorio Ros’Aura Rosato Campania Italy
Suggested retail price $11-$14
Imported by Palm Bay in NYC

Made from 100% hand-harvested Aglianico grapes coming from10-20 year old vines grown between at 1,000 - 1,650 ft above sea level around the communes of Taurasi, Pietradefusi, Castelvetere and Paternopoli in Campania. Planted in deep soil with moderately large grains originally from ash and fallen pumice. After de-stemming, free-run juice underwent a 12-hour maceration on the skins followed by a temperature controlled fermentation stainless steel tanks. The resulting wine is stunning.

The 2009 Feudi di San Gregorio Ros'Aura Rosato was a revelation and a very enjoyable surprise, surely one of the most inspiring Rosé(s) I tried this year so far. It has an attractive, intense and fairly deep colorful rose color. The nose is inviting with ripe, candied wild red berries and cherry fruits intermingled with earthy and mineral notes. The palate is medium bodied with great minerality enhanced by fresh and lively acidity with notes of freshly crushed wild berries on the lingering finish. Neither to dry neither to full, and definitely not sweet but rather full of mineral with juicy acidity and a great way of coating the palate, this is a very versatile and definitely food friendly wine. Great on its own, it will be perfect as an aperitif and delicious with chicken and turkey entrées, fish and grilled vegetables.

Feudi di San Gregorio is surely one of my favorite wineries of Campania and I’ve always enjoyed their wines (read my previous post on Feudi di San Gregorio at www.ledomduvin.com/2010/05/2008-feudi-di-san-gregorio-falanghina.html). Yet, Terredora di Paolo that I discovered more recently is equally good and interesting. Both made me come to the conclusion that my palate is indeed very inclined to Campania’s wines, more especially the whites.


As I am writing, I’m enjoying a few glasses of the younger sibling of the 1995 Taurasi that I described in a previous post: 2003 Terredora Dipaolo Taurasi DOCG Campania Italia.

Terredora di Paolo

Located in Montfusco, a village north of Avellino, Terredora is a continuation of the ancient story of Campania, its people and their passion for their land and their winemaking.

TERREDORA has been on the forefront of the wine renaissance in Campania since 1978. Today, with more than 150 hectares of vineyard land, Terredora is Campania’s largest wine producer and vineyard owner, with a worldwide reputation for the quality of its wines. Their commitment to excellence was proven in 1994 when they decided to vinify their own grapes. This decision was prompted by their belief that great wine comes from the balance of natural resources: terrain, varieties used, climate and man’s ability to work with nature.



2003 Terredora Di Paolo Taurasi DOCG Campania Italia
Suggesting retail price $34-$38
Imported/distributed by VIAS in NYC

Made from 100 % Aglianico grape variety, from vineyards in Lapio and Montemiletto, carefully selected and hand-harvested, the Terredora Dipaolo Taurasi was aged in small French oak barrels for 18 months. After blending the maturation continues in 35 hl oak barrels for 12 months and then in bottle for a further 8-12 months before release.

The 2003 vintage was unusually hot across the board in Europe, and I have always been a skeptic regarding how long some of these 2003(s) will last and take to integrate, and more especially how will they taste. After tasting many 2003 vintage wines from many European countries, I can say firmly that I’m not a fan of this vintage for sure.

In fact, due to a certain ripeness (or even over ripeness) and lack of acidity and harmony and even structure, resulting in heavier-than-usual fruit forward mouthfeel for quite a lot of wines from Bordeaux and Ribera del Duero to Greece, some of these wines were not great. They didn’t necessarily reflect their Terroir and region of origin for most of them. Moreover, that over ripeness with high alcohol content and unharmonious, slightly disjointed profile didn’t help for the sales. New world riper style of wine drinkers probably found them more to their taste, but, in my opinion, most 2003 wines had nothing to do with their usual selves in better or regular vintages.

Although not as good as the previously tasted 1995 vintage, the 2003 Terredora Dipaolo Taurasi DOCG Campania is a good, fruit forward wine that is ready now and not surprisingly don’t even need decanting. It has a medium to deep garnet color with slightly orange brick reflects. So far nothing too unusual! The nose is quite strong and aromatics with warm, ripe dark fruit and plum intermingled with earth, underbrush, spicy and woody notes, and hints of alcohol. Secondary and tertiary aromas are also appearing, a sign of premature ageing that is not wanted, but not unusual for this particular vintage (like most European 2003(s). The palate is ultra ripe with dark ripe fruit and berries, plums, dark spicy chocolate, earthy cider wood and pepper. The attack is quite full and expanding with oak and slight burnt touches. The finish is quite dry, a bit short some will say, with mixed slightly astringent and ripe tannins (in the same time) that appear a touch bitter (which not surprising either for this vintage).

Overall, even if not my style, the wine is not that bad, just a bit too typical from the 2003 vintage for my taste buds. But don’t get me wrong, it is perfectly drinkable and enjoyable and definitely remains a good earthy Aglianico (with a bit more scorched fruit than usual, granted!). On its own just now as I’m writing, it is warm, earthy and chocolaty and somewhat inspiring.


Fortunately, Terredora Di Paolo makes tremendous wines, and as I always say: a good winemaker will always make good wines good year bad year. Of course, it is often difficult to predict hazardous weather and other climatic conditions, like those of 2003.

We just bought (for the store) 3 wines from Terredora di Paolo, which are tremendous examples of the quality that this winery constantly achieves. The leading example is their benchmark Falanghina, which is a very versatile and inviting white to enjoy at any moment. The second wine is their Greco di Tufo, which is quite outstanding in most vintages.


However, the wine that I will describe last, is:



2008 Terredora di Paolo Aglianico Campania IGT Italy
Suggested retail price $13-$16
Imported by VIAS in NYC

The maceration of the grapes, at 24-25°C, does not exceed 7 days in order to obtain an excellent extraction of color without creating a heavy tannic structure. Aged in wood and stainless steel tanks, this wine succeeded to maintain great aromatic and freshness with complexity and depth that makes it an attractive ready to drink young wine.

The 2008 Terredora di Paolo Aglianico Campania IGT has a fairly dense ruby-purple red color with slight garnet reflects. The nose has bright dark cherry and ripe red cherry aromas with spicy and earth notes topped by violet scents and a slight gamey character. The balanced and Terroir oriented palate is forward, gentle and earthy with dark berry flavors and soft subtle oak characters mixed spicy hints, enhanced by excellent acidity. The lingering earthy finish is delightful and juicy, with a slight tannic touch that will integrate with a bit of time. Overall, it is a very nicely crafted wine and I liked it a lot.

The 2007 vintage was already quite nice; the 2008 seems slightly fruitier or juicier with good acidity and enjoyable harmony. Pair it traditional Italian and Mediterranean dishes including "charcuterie", soups and pasta dishes, lasagna, white meats and light main courses.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Step into the Green!

Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines (and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability.

"Le Soleil des Scorta" (or "The House of Scorta") a book by Laurent Gaudé... a story about these rare moments of happiness in life

"Le Soleil des Scorta" (or "The House of Scorta") a book by Laurent Gaudé... a story about these rare moments of happiness in life

As far as I could see when I was young and what I came to understand and verified so many times since then, there is in France, Italy and Spain predominantly, but also in the rest of Europe like in Portugal and Greece (and surely somewhat the rest of the world), a tight bond between men and their most prevalent cultures. Part of it is due their history and their pride of origin, but mostly it belongs to their traditions, rooted in their blood for millennium, resisting the path of time, passed on from generation to generation. One can see it in their manners and their behaviors, their way of talking or even eating…

Thinking about it, the eating part is surely the most important part of all. Locals are always proud to taste the products of their land and their region and more especially proud to continue what many of their ancestors did before them and guard preciously the recipes that made certain places famous and a real culinary destinations for those who were not locals.

Over the years and the centuries, these recipes became the pride of a region or sometimes of a village. Even now most people always have real pleasure to retrieve with joy and smile the food that make them so happy when they were young, having a sampling "dégustation" of the dishes while they were cooking for the Sunday lunch or dinner at their parents, or their grandfather or their grandmother house with the rest of the family.

I personally have hundreds of really enjoyable memories of these moments shared with my family in the countryside of the "Côtes de Bourg" at my late grandfather house, with endless Sunday lunches eating the specialties of Gironde and Aquitaine: Home made "Paté de lapin et de cochon" (rabbit and pork Paté), "Foie gras", "Coq au Vin", "Lamproie à la Bordelaise", Poached "Anguilles", "Cassoulet de Castelnaudary", "Saucisses Lentilles de Toulouse", "Poulet Basquaise", "L'Agneau de Pauillac", "Lapin à la Persillade", "Huîtres du bassin d'Arcachon et du Cap Ferret au caviar d'Esturgeon d'Aquitaine", "Crevettes de la Gironde", "Gesiers de Canard", "Canard Fermier des Landes", "Esturgeon d'Aquitaine croustillant, purée de chataîgne aux épices", "Tomates Farcies", "Escargots à la Persillade" and so many more other dishes served with Pleurotes, Chanterelles, Ceps, or just a simple lettuce salad, some potatoes, asparagus, tomatoes, french green beans, "potiron", carrots and more, and all of these from my grandfather's garden. Home grown fruits and vegetables, nurtured the organic way conscientiously following the seasons and the ancestral signs of mother nature, like the wine he was making.

To me, happiness is the emotional component you experience as a part of your everyday life with friends and family, or other people surrounding you, even for a brief moment. These moments that make you smile and make you feel good, proud or just happy to share them or to witness them. Remember the good ones and forget the bad ones, you cannot come back on the bad, so might as well try to get a positive lesson from them and move on. The best memories will always make you see life for what is worth and how great it can be. Although simple and rare, these were moments of bliss.

Sometimes, one of the gentle and adorable furred rabbits or the annoying rooster was killed and prepared early in the morning for the late Sunday lunch. It was a feast. The family was once again united to share a happy moment. Different appetizers, various salads with crudités, homemade pâtés and sliced “Jambon de Bayonne”, along with other regional specialties battled on the long table with the butter, the bread, salt and pepper, oil and vinegar and everything else needed to eat and drink and share a great afternoon together. Bottles of wine were open and everybody was happy.

It lasted for hours full of various conversations and laughs and more memories. It was good time and no worries at least for that one afternoon that we were trying to have at least once a month. It was my childhood, up until my late teen years. Then things changed but I will always remember these moments of immense joy and satisfaction forever, and I'm even trying to reproduce them my own way with my little family... pass on from a generation to another from the down of time til.. who knows....

"Le Soleil des Scorta" (or "The House of Scorta") a book by Laurent Gaudé

If I’m telling you all these, it is because a friend of mine offered me a book called “Le Soleil des Scorta” (or “The House of Scorta” in English) from Laurent Gaudé, and I really enjoyed it. It is a story about life and people and these rare moments of happiness and the struggle to live the best we can with what we have, depending on our convictions, our beliefs and our origins.



It is a great book about life and generations through the eyes of a family living and evolving in Montepuccio, a small fisherman village in southern Italy, spread out from 1875 to now. In my opinion, everybody should read it, and more especially the expats wherever you are. It was a great read in French, I assume it must be equally good in English (despite may be certain language "subtilités").

“Merci” to Laurent Gaudé for such an interesting, approachable and memorable book. And also “Merci” to Didier and Éléonore who recently offered me that book for my birthday.

Enjoy,

LeDom du vin

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines (and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability.

2009 Pierre Boniface Apremont Vin de Savoie France

Ok, let’s face it; it is another post about Savoie. Unbelievable, summer is here, and all I can write about is Savoie, Savoie and more Savoie. But you know what? Why not?

After all, it comes “très á propos” in my quest of always trying to introduce you to lesser-known regions, grapes and wines from around the world crafted by small artisanal producers and family owned estates.

Granted, after reading my last 3-4 posts about Savoie wines, you must be extremely knowledgeable and on the verge of getting annoyed or bored. But what can I do, these wines are great! And the Savoie region remains so undiscovered for so many people. I just want to talk and write about it.

After writing about great producers like Eugène Carrel et Fils, Andrien Berlioz, Gilles Berlioz, a few of the Quénard (and God only knows how many they can be within this huge family, at least 6 different that I know of), Thierry Tissot, and René & Beatrice Bernard from Cellier du Palais, I couldn’t write about another wine from another region without writing something about Pierre Boniface, one of the most recognized personality of Savoie and surely one of my favorite Savoie producers.

I bought my first bottles of Pierre Boniface about 10 years ago; it was his Apremont 1999 Cuvee Prestige Les Rocailles. I loved it and somewhat consequently fell in love with Savoie wines. At that time Jacquère, Roussette or Altesse, Bugey, Mondeuse didn’t mean much for me. I had the chance to serve a few of these little gems in the restaurant where I worked as Sommelier 14 years ago, but had only little interest. I was young and naïf, and my palate was more acquainted to wines with more fruit, weight and substance with more oak influence…

I guess it came from my Bordeaux origins and the fact that at that time, Robert Parker Jr. critics were more in favor to heavier wines and were setting the trend. But all of this has changed, more than 18 years of tasting and nearly 14 years of wine buying later, my palate has considerably developed to become the discriminating and dissecting tools that ever since has shaped and ruled my everyday life at work but also at home. Harmony, freshness, minerality, balance, crispiness, varietally correct and Terroir oriented features, rapidly replaced over-ripe, heavy, alcoholic, woody and jammy, in my wine vocabulary.

And somewhat, I was terribly influenced by the wines of the Loire and Burgundy, but I need to admit that the wines from Jura and more especially Savoie startled me the most and enabled me to make that change and sharpened my taste buds.

Pierre Boniface Vin de Savoie France

Pierre Boniface wines are produced at “Les Rocailles”, a “lieu dit” of St. André-les-Marches, a little village nestled in the Savoie Vallée, about 13 kilometers south of Chamberry, in the foothills of French Alps.

Established for centuries in the village of Apremont and its immediate surroundings, the Boniface were always connected to agriculture and viticulture. They were winegrower and Négociant.

Conducting a modest business, Pierre’s father was only farming 20 acres (about 8.10 hectares) and buying grapes from another 20 on handshake deals when Pierre took over.

Gradually, Pierre Boniface grew the business and expanded his vineyards and although not the largest, he became one of the larger estates in the area of Les Marches, and consequently of Savoie.

Les Rocailles now owns nearly 50 acres (about 20 hectares) in Apremont, which provide half of the grapes for his 25,000+ cases annual production of his Apremont, and purchases grapes from nearly 60 more acres (about 24 hectares) under contract with his neighbors. Boniface buys grapes, but never bulk wines; thus, every bottle he produces are fermented and vinified in his cellar and bottled at the property.

The vineyards constitute of about 40 acres Jacquère for Apremont owned, and 40 leased. In addition, the estate owns about 8 acres of Roussette, leases about 15 acres. Atop all that, they also have small acreages of Chardonnay for their Brut, some more Jacquère for their “Abymes”, and some Gamay for the rosé and some Mondeuse for the red. And finally, three acres of Roussanne are leased for the production of Chignin-Bergeron.

Pierre Boniface several Savoie wines, including: Apremont, Brut de Savoie NV, Caprice des Rocailles Sparkling Rosé NV, Roussette de Savoie and Mondeuse and Chignin-Bergeron.

Understandably, Apremont is Boniface’ s signature wine. Produced with 100% Jacquère, it accounts for 70% of the production, with a vast majority sold to the export markets. This great value white is the perfect introduction to the unique and distinctive wines of Savoie.

Growers like Pierre usually look forward to passing their domains on to their children, but in this case, it was just not meant to be. His daughter Miriam is a computer systems architect and his son is literally a rocket scientist. Pierre subsequently sold the business to Guillaume Durand and Alban Thouroude, two young men (born and bred in Savoie) with MBA's from the University of Grenoble.

All of the winery/vineyard staff has stayed on, and Pierre will continue to actively consult for the next few years. Yet, even under new management the quality has not decreased, on the contrary, it has evolve and aim for higher ground in complexity. Pierre Boniface has now become a brand, a name expressing quality and Terroir driven attitude, recognized and often praised by the press and the critics.



2009 Pierre Boniface Apremont Vin de Savoie France
Suggested retail price $13-$16
Imported by …

Pierre Boniface Apremont is made with 100% Jacquère, from vines of more than 40 years of age in average, in both owned and leased vineyards. The yields are of 4.75 tons/acre (about 9 tones per hectares). The wine doesn’t see any oak at all to preserve freshness and fruit quality, and is vinified in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. Alcohol is usually quite low, usually 11% (or sometime a little less) and rarely above 12.5%. Apremont is often dry but not tart, flowery but not too perfumy. Recent bottling may present a little CO2, a touch of “pétillance” or light fizz on the tongue, if you prefer.

Once again, you’ve got to love Savoie white wines. Fresh, limpid, crisp, vivid and full of minerals that add almost a touch of purity, this Boniface Apremont is no exception. What a wine! Behind its pale straw-yellow color, the aromas are a beautiful cocktail of fresh summer white and yellow fruits including peaches and citrus mixed with mountain dew on pasture grass. There is also a delicate but distinct blossom, flowery element; also reminiscent of the nearby Alpine meadows intermingled with the minerality of the icy glacier spring waters. On the palate the wine is light on its feet, yet complex and delicate like a dancing ballerina. The lingering finish is particularly smooth, pleasingly dry and surely inviting for another sip. In warm and hot weather, only water, Muscadet or some very dry Moselle Rieslings can compete as ultimate thirst-quenchers. It is infinitely refreshing.

Pair it with Savoyard’s specialties like: Raclette and Fondue Savoyarde, Paté en Croute, and the unmistakable “Tartiflette” (Oven baked potatoes with cream, bacon and sautéed onions topped with farmhouse Reblochon cheese, served with green salad) or simply with mussels or Provence-style shrimp “sautée”, flavored with a dash of Pernod.

Bonne retraite Pierre Boniface! And let’s hope that they will continue to walk in your steps long after you will have left your few consulting years.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from the importer website at www.winemerchant.net (Hand Picked Selections)


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2009 Eugène Carrel et Fils Roussette de Savoie Altesse France

Eugène Carrel et Fils Roussette de Savoie Altesse France

I know, I already wrote quite a few posts about Savoie and its wines, more especially the whites, over the last few weeks; but I couldn’t resist writing another post about it after tasting the following wine.

In a previous post about Eugène Carrel et Fils (read it at www.ledomduvin.com/2009/07/2008-eugene-carrel-et-fils-jongieux.html), I wrote about their Jacquère that I really enjoyed and which rapidly became one of the benchmarks of the store for its quality/price ratio and its exquisitely charming and thirst quenching attitude.

Boasting enhancing acidity and crispy minerality in a delicate, elegant and almost pure way, like drinking the icy water of a mountain spring, the Jacquère from Eugène Carrel et Fils is surely one of the best contenders, in my opinion, for this summer most successful white in the store (once again, it already happened last year in July 2009).

I love it so much that I couldn’t spend another Spring-Summer without it and decided to order it again. About 4-5 weeks ago, we ordered a few cases and they were gone so fast that I needed to reorder it immediately. However, to my surprise and after waiting patiently for about a week, we still hadn’t received the 2nd order. The wine wasn’t available. The importer was waiting for another container still at sea.

How could they do that to me? My customers were harassing me nearly every other day about it: so, did it arrive yet? You’re out of this wine that you suggested me the other day? What to do? What to answer? They were almost striking in front of the store with billboards and slogans… What could go worst?

As one thing always come with another, what shouldn’t have happen… happened (sigh):

A few weeks earlier before we sold the last bottles, my boss, who is also in charge of counseling recently engaged customers about wines and spirits for their wedding (on appointment only, talk to Matthew at www.HeightsChateau.com), had open a bottle of Jacquère from Eugène Carrel et Fils and suggested it to some customers for their wedding. They liked it so much that we had to order it for them (and for the store of course). And you know what… Murphy’s law! That’s what!

Their wedding weekend was pointing on the horizon and we were waiting for the arrival of the wine with great anticipation the week just before the wedding week. Our sale rep. (from the distributor) let us know that the wine was still at sea and would not be here on time… Aïe! Aïe! Aïe! (Que fallait-il faire ou dire pour avoir ce vin?…de quoi en perdre son Latin).

However, we are survivor and a solution had to be found ASAP! We could have suggested another wine from Savoie, but the ones that we had in the store at the time were great but more expensive and slightly different in taste; and the customers were counting on us with that wine.

Our sales rep. from the distributor told us that he had a few cases left of a “Roussette de Savoie” from the same producer that was worth trying and suggesting instead of the greatly awaited Jacquère.

FYI: “Roussette de Savoie” is an “Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée” (AOC) for white wine produced mainly in the western part of Savoie wine region, in France. “Roussette de Savoie” is usually and mainly crafted with the eponymous Roussette grapes (also called “Altesse”) sometimes blended with Chardonnay (up to 50% depending of the producer and the desired final product) for the AOC only. For the AOC mentioning the name of the village or the name of a specific vineyard, (thus bearing the "cru" designation, i.e.: Frangy, Marestel, Monterminod and Monthoux), “Altesse” must be the only grape, no blending permitted. These "cru(s)" benefits of the best conditions and the best microclimates, producing greater, even age worthy, wines.

Well, we didn’t think twice, if Carrel could craft such a great Jacquère, his “Roussette de Savoie” would surely make a great substitute. So we ordered it.

As I always say: “Every wine deserve to be tasted! Even if every wine doesn’t deserve to be drunk!” So, by curiosity and especially eager to find a replacement for the missing wine for the wedding of our customers, we tried it…




2009 Eugène Carrel Roussette de Savoie Altesse France
Suggested retail price $13-$16
Distributed by Martin Scott Wines in NYC

Wow! What a nice surprise! This wine was a fuller and even more food friendlier version than its sibling Jacquère.

To compare it (even if not the same grape I know), in the glass, the robe of the Roussette is slightly deeper, yet still pale yellow-white color, with bright pale golden reflects, although not as translucent. The nose expresses similar notes with lot more minerals, white and yellow fruits aromas. It is also fresh and crisp with delicate scents of white flower, wet stone minerality, citrus and especially white fruit. The palate is very inviting, cleansing and very well rounded. It expands nicely in the mid-palate with a gentle way of coating the entire palate with even more minerals and white-yellow stone fruit. The soft and lingering finish is refreshing and extremely satisfying, and definitely calls for another glass.

Greatly enhanced by a lovely mineral touch and great acidity, this high elevation vineyards’ Roussette, like the Jacquère, is an anticipated summer white and as much a food complement as a thirst quencher, particularly in very hot day. I love it too.

Although not as bright, light and crisp as the Jacquère, as it shouldn’t be anyway, this Roussette de Savoie is rather supple, rounded, mineral and refined. Yet one thing in common with the Jacquère, is that one bottle won’t be enough if you share it during a late afternoon aperitif or even if you sip over some oysters, shellfish and grilled white fish. Due to its deeper and more complex feel, this Roussette should be paired with more complex dishes like fish in sauce, poultry, chicken and even veal or pork.

Thanks to the all team at Eugène Carrel et Fils for making such great wine (once again)!

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

For more info about this winery read my previous post on Eugène Carrel et fils at (www.ledomduvin.com/2009/07/2008-eugene-carrel-et-fils-jongieux.html)


Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines (and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability

Savoie & Adrien Berlioz Cellier des Cray Chignin Savoie France

Savoie

Savoie is decidedly one of my favorite French wine areas with the Southwest of France, Loire Valley, Burgundy and Jura. I have always liked the wines from the northern and southern Rhone Valley, Provence, Languedoc and Roussillon, yet I have discovered that if the wines are too hot, too ripe or present too much alcohol, I’m not into them at all.

As a Bordeaux native, I like Bordeaux wines a lot but I’m relatively picky with the juice from my region of origin. I need to admit that the last 18 years spent tasting between 4,000 to 6,000(+) wines a year from all around the world as a Sommelier and Wine buyer, oriented my palate towards bright, balanced, juicy, harmonious, structured and textured yet vivid red, white and rosé wines with crisp acidity, good minerality and refreshing palate rather than overripe, opulent and oaky fruit bombs.

That is why, I must confess, it is somewhat difficult for me to fully appreciate New World style wines, especially when super oaky and over 14.5 degrees of alcohol. I understand and comprehend them and even realize why some people may like them, as I have to in order to diversify the wine selection on the shelves and offer a wide array of wines in the store to satisfy my customers’ tastes, but I rarely enjoy them: too heavy, too alcoholic, too woody, lacking of freshness and vibrancy.

In fact, I like some of the New Zealand and South-African wines, which can be pretty good and expressive; but also some Malbec from Argentina, Tannat from Uruguay, some Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile and California, some Pinot Noir from Oregon and Washington, and even quite a few Greek and Lebanese wines.

However, whatever I do or taste, it seems that I always come back to the old world, and more especially wines from vineyards located in cooler climate with higher elevation, presenting more minerals and acidity with less alcohol and crispier taste.

Despite my love for Spanish and Portuguese wines in general (the traditional style preferably), fresh and crispy wines from hillsides and steep slopes seems to please my palate more than anything else, and I usually greatly appreciate the wines from Piedmont, Veneto, Alto-Adige, Tuscany and Campania in Italy, and more especially Loire, Burgundy, Alsace, Jura and Savoie in France.

But why Savoie? Is it because I did my army in the “Chasseurs Alpins” in Grenoble and I’m very familiar with the area and enjoy the countless hours of trekking and climbing in the Alps? I don’t know, but one thing is sure Mountainous wines seems to be clean, pure, versatile, complex, vibrant and surely very easy to drink and enjoy. They almost feel like glacier spring water gently and slowly filtered by the rocky soils, taking all the best components the ground as to offer and restituting them in its pure and refreshing and thirst quenching mineral unique way.

For me, Savoie wines reflect their environment of origin: light on their feet and lightly perfumed like a mountain breeze, pure, crisp, vivid, super refreshing, from the most simple to the most complex, they always seem very pleasing and the unavoidable minerality add an extra dimension that is extremely satisfying.

Vin de Savoie is an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) for wines produced in the Savoie region, which is located in the foothills of the French Alps, central eastern part of France (south of Geneva). The region is divided roughly into three distinct parts: the glacially sculpted terrain along the South shore of Lake Geneva, the hilly country near the northern end of the "Lac du Bourget", and the area bordering the "Massif des Bauges" south of Chambéry.

Savoie's wines: The produced wines are mostly white (more than 70%), made from grape varieties planted mainly on the slopes of the various surrounding Mountain chains (and partly in the valley) around the villages of Chignin, Apremont, Abymes, Jongieux, St Badolph and Cruet for the whites, made with Altesse (also known as Roussette), Jacquère, Chasselas, Chardonnay and also Roussanne for the rare Chignin-Bergeron. There are also some reds (relatively light yet fresh, earthy and aromatic) made from Mondeuse, Gamay Noir and occasionally Pinot Noir, and also some rosés made from Gamay and some sparkling wines.

Chignin: Located about 10 miles southeast of Chambéry, the little village of Chignin resides at the foot of the high limestone escarpments in the southern part of the Bauges massif, central eastern France, in the Savoie region (eastern part of the Rhône-Alpes, bordering the neighboring Switzerland and Valle d'Aosta in Italy).

Chignin (Suite): Overhanging the valley at an altitude of roughly 370 meters on the southwestern slope of the Summit of Montgelas (1300 meters above sea level), this pretty Savoyard village of Chignin can be spotted from a distance due to its 14th century tower and its 19th century chapel dedicated to Saint-Anthelme. Also, due to its location, Chignin offers a fantastic panorama of the mountains of the Chartreuse National Park, especially the "Mont Grenier", located westward on the opposite side of the valley. Moreover, directly opposite of Chignin on the other side of the valley and “niched” on the eastern slope foothills of the summit of the "Pas de la Fosse", you can also see the village of Apremont, one of the other Cru villages from "Vin de Savoie". "Les Abymes" is nestled in the valley, separating the Massif des Bauges to the east and the Massif de la Chartreuse to the west, between Chignin and Apremont.

In a previous post, I was talking about the Quenard, which is a name particularly common in Savoie. Yet, Berlioz seems to take the same road, after Gilles Berlioz (read my previous post at www.ledomduvin.com/2009/08/2008-domaine-gilles-berlioz-chignin), today’s post is all about Adrien Berlioz.

Adrien Berlioz Cellier des Cray Chignin Savoie France

Adrien Berlioz took over the little family estate called “Cellier des Cray” at the beginning of 2006 and made it one of the most prestigious domaine of Chignin. The Domaine encompasses about 4.5 hectares of vineyards in organic conversion, located in a "lieu dit" called "Les Viviers" near Chignin, a small village between Albertville and Chambéry, at about 390 meters above sea level.

All the vines are planted in a warm Terroir composed of rock scree on the surface and calcareous-clay sub-soil. The very steep slopes’ vineyards, with 50% of inclination for some of them, are planted with grapes such as Jacquère and Roussanne for the white and Mondeuse for the red.

Adrien works with respect for the environment using, for now, the “Lutte Raisonnée” method with minimal use of chemicals, only when really necessary. He also uses Organic techniques tending towards Biodynamic, that he adapts to each parcels depending on the treatment needed to obtain the healthiest vines and grapes. Atop of not using any herbicides or inorganic fertilizers, working and plowing the ground are done with small tools to avoid tamping the soil and in the same time allow the upper ground layers and roots to breath. Everything is done mainly by hand and using a tractor will be too dangerous anyway due to the steepness of the slope in certain parcels. By working his vines and soils this way, he is hoping to be soon totally Organic or even Biodynamic.

This young “vigneron” is animated by great passion and rare humility. His wines transcribe the sincerity and detailed oriented attitude of the people from Savoie, but also the richness and complexity of their Terroir of origin. Adrien gives his vines a paternal attention translated into his wines with great attention to produce the best this mountainous land can offer.

Adrien Berlioz “Cellier des Cray” produces about 5 wines including 3 in the US market:




2009 Cellier des Cray Vin de Savoie Chignin Savoie France
Suggested retail price $11-$13
Distributed by Savio Soares Selection in NYC

This 100% Jacquère was vinified in stainless steel tanks and didn’t see any oak. The vines are about 40-45 years of age, planted on clay-calcareous soil, with a density of 8000 vines per hectares and yield averaging about 50 hectoliters per hectare. After manual harvest with transport of the grapes in plastic cases to arrive intact at the cellar, then immediate pressing with no air contact to prevent oxidation, vinification occurred in stainless still vats with regular bâtonnage of the lees for 4-6 months.

It is the pure expression of this indigenous grape producing light, clear, clean white wines marked by their vivid acidity, enhancing minerality and extreme versatility. Fresh, crisp, with a slight effervescence gently titillating your taste bud, what we call “perlant” in French, without being bubbly, this wine offers blossom and white citrus on the nose and on the palate. Quite delightful and refreshing I must say. Serve it cold as an aperitif by hot spring or summer afternoon, but also with crustaceans and light fish.



2009 Cellier des Cray Vin de Savoie Chignin-Bergeron Cuvée "Euphrasie" and Cuvée Tradition Savoie France
Suggested retail price ...(to be confirmed)
Distributed by Savio Soares Selection in NYC

This 100% Roussanne was also vinified in stainless steel tanks. The vines are about 20-25 years of age, planted on clay-calcareous soil topped by scree of rocks, with a density of 8000 vines per hectares and yield averaging about 50 hectoliters per hectare. After manual harvest with transport of the grapes in plastic cases to arrive intact at the cellar, then immediate pressing with no air contact to prevent oxidation, vinification occurred in stainless still vats and oak barrels with regular bâtonnage of the lees for 4-6 months. The ageing on the lees and slight touch of oak intermingled with the character of the Roussanne grape confer this wine great complexity and texture.

The Roussanne being more aromatic, layered and fruitier than Jacquère, the resulting wine is more powerful and expressive, yet it remains elegant and refined with harmonious complexity. The nose and palate are models of refinement with floral aromas, citrus and white fruits complemented by earthy notes. The gently coating palate is expanding nicely towards the inviting lingering finish. It has more ageing potential and support more elaborated dishes like white meat, fish in sauce, cheeses and desserts.



2009 Cellier des Cray Vin de Savoie rouge Mondeuse France
Suggested retail price...(to be confirmed)
Distributed by Savio Soares Selection in NYC

Mondeuse Noire is a red wine grape that is indigenous and grown primarily in the Savoie region of France. The grape can also be found in Argentina, Australia, and California, but it is in the foothills of the Alps in the Savoie region that it is the most expressive.

This 100% Mondeuse was crafted from vines about 50-55 years of age, planted on scree of rocks topping clay-calcareous subsoil on steep soils, with a density of 8000 vines per hectares and yield averaging about 50 hectoliters per hectare. After manual harvest with transport of the grapes in plastic cases to arrive intact at the cellar, then after a cold maceration for 12 hours, fermentation occurred in stainless still vats and the “encuvage” lasted for about 2-3 weeks. The wine was then aged for 6 to 8 months in used demi-Muid(s) of 600 liters (large oak vats) of 2nd and 3rd use (meaning that the barrels were used to make one or two more wine before the current one).

Adrien Berlioz crafts “a mean” Mondeuse that is excellent. Slightly tannic, spicy, powerful yet fairly light and vivid, voluptuous and “charpentée” (meaning structured), this Mondeuse is the unaltered expression of the Terroir intermingled with red cherry fruits, floral and earthy notes. What a lovely wine! Here again, like the Roussanne, it has good ageing potential and food friendly attitude. Pair it with game, venison, hare and Savoie’s cheeses like Tomme de Savoie and Reblochon.


In conclusion, I will say that the passionate Adrien Berlioz, a young "Vigneron-Récoltant Indépendant", crafts some really interesting wines that reflect his personality and the character of their Terroir of origin. They deserve all your attention as they just arrived in the US market and are very promising.

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from an email from Adrien Berlioz and different other sources to produce a winery technical data sheet for Savio Soares Selection.


Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines (and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability.

Italian wine dinner at Saul restaurant hosted by Heights Chateau and Tony Didio Selections

2006 Chateau Cambon Beaujolais Villages Bourgogne France

Chateau Cambon Beaujolais Villages Bourgogne France

It all started in 1995, when Marie and Marcel Lapierre, in association with Jean Claude Chanudet (from “Domaine Chamonard”), purchased Château de Cambon, which was in bankruptcy. They brought a renaissance to the estate and restructured its vineyards.

Marie is managing it. Marcel Lapierre, her husband, who also owns a Domaine in Morgon (hence Domaine Marcel Lapierre), is the vineyard manager/winemaker and Jean Claude is in charge of all the technical and material part. Although Marcel adapts the same care and methods as with his own Domaine in Morgon, the three of them make the final decision regarding the wines.

Although the vineyard management is not technically Biodynamic or Organic, they use the “Lutte Raisonnée” method, which is quite close to both despite the use of chemicals when needed.

“Lutte Raisonnée” means that they adopt different attitudes and methods in the parcels depending on the vines, the nature of the soil, the environment and the necessary measures that need to be taken depending on the vintage, the weather and micro-climates. It also means that they only apply minimal or barely no use of chemicals treatment (pesticides, herbicides, etc) to fight diseases and fungus, only when really necessary. Also, when they do not use any chemical, they treat the vineyard with Biodynamic products and plow their vines.

The vineyards of this estate are located between the crus of Morgon and Fleurie. But due to bureaucratic indecisiveness between 1935 and 1936 when most Beaujolais and Cru Beaujolais AOC(s) were created, this vineyard was not included in either cru, but just given a Beaujolais-Villages designation. Since the owners at this time did not protest the decision, this land will forever be designated as Beaujolais-Villages or Beaujolais.

That said, Marie and Marcel believe that these wines show a marked resemblance to the Morgon cru. Marcel vinifies them in the same manner and enthusiasm as with his other wines at Domaine Lapierre in Morgon.

Harvests are done manually with serious sortings, made by each harvester when they pick the grapes in the vineyards, then re-verified when they empty their basket in the large bucket behind the tractor before going to the winery, and one last time at the winery.

Usually they only make 2 different wines, the rosé Beaujolais wine (wine of bleeding or “saignée”) to allow better concentration to their Beaujolais red and, thus, the red Beaujolais wine. Occasionally, when the vintages are very good, they also make the Cuvée “Le CAMBON”, a Beaujolais Villages that is made with the best grapes of the vintage from the older vines. When the vintage is not as good, they mix all the grapes and only produce the Beaujolais red. In any cases, they sell everything every year one way or another, which is another proof of the high quality of this estate and the people behind it.

All their wines are produce and vinified with all natural yeasts and without SO2 or “chaptalisation” in 40-75 hl foudres (large oak vats). Only tiny doses of sulphur are added to increase stability and avoid oxidation, but bottling occurs without filtration. The wines are as natural as can be and the result in the bottle is vibrant and alive.



2006 Chateau Cambon Beaujolais Villages Burgundy France
Suggested retail price $18-$21
Imported by Polaner Selection in NYC

The 2006 vintage is characterized by the ripeness but also the freshness of the fruit. Expressing the typical red fruits of Gamay combined with the minerality of the soil; this wine is quite delicious and somewhat elegant with a nice dose of earthiness.

Behind its deep red-purple color, which is by the way, slightly cloudy, this wine presents inviting and complex aromas of cherry-like fruit with earthy notes. A touch rustic, the palate is fresh and juicy, with red cherry fruit enhanced by a great acidity. The finish is a touch dry and needs a bit of food but has good structure overall.

Marcel Lapierre and his team once again managed to produce great Beaujolais that deserve some attention. Not to mention it again, but this is an unchaptalised, unfiltered, unfined, unsulphured wine from somewhat partly Biodynamic-Organic vines made by Beaujolais wizards that are very talented at what they do. Domaine Marcel Lapierre, Domaine Chamonard and Chateau Cambon are some of the best Beaujolais of the Morgon area and surely some of the most natural, really expressing the characteristics of their Terroir of origin.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Info partly taken and edited from an email from Marie Lapierre to produce a technical sheet for Domaine Marcel Lapierre and Domaine Chamonard for Savio Soares (see also Savio Soares website at savinho.com) and from Chateau Cambon importer website at www.polanerselections.com


Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines (and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability.